Amelia’s Magazine | Yeashin: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Yeashin S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs.

Last season Yeashin‘s Woodland collection trod a narrow line between dressing up and playing dress up (kid style) so I was intrigued to see how this Korean label would progress with a stand alone show.

Yeashin S:S 2014 by Lynne Datson
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson.

Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Yeashin S:S 2014 by Gaarte
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

The extravagant layering of texture and colour that worked so well in the winter collection were translated with less success into a more summery vibe: plenty of frills, pearls and embroidery splashed across loose little girl bib dresses and used to vamp up cute girly blouses (the best garments in this show), all worn by models with long shimmery limbs. Pleats, bobbly spots and scattered leaves were echoes of last season too, this time accessorised with pie crust paper hats and simple nude coloured heels.

Yeashin S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
This was a resolutely whimsical collection that erred a little too much towards the saccharine for my taste. I look forward to seeing how Yeashin develops as the seasons go forward.

Categories ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Lynne Datson, ,S/S 2014, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Summer Afternoon Party, ,woodland, ,Yeashin

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Amelia’s Magazine | Middlesex University Graduate Fashion Designers 2013: Preview Part One

Annest Gwynedd ethical_menswear-by_gaarte
Annest Gwynedd by Gaarte.

Last week fashion students at Middlesex University held their 2013 internal fashion show, featuring work from over 100 graduating students. Some of them were then chosen by fashion world luminaries (including Louise Gray and James Long) to showcase full collections on the catwalk during Graduate Fashion Week this June: an exciting event to look forward to. Due to a mix up in timings I sadly missed the collections from the first 25 students to show: but here’s the best of those I did see, all of them possible stars of tomorrow. What a wonderful diversity of work on show!

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Annest Gwynedd
Ethical menswear by Annest Gwynedd hit a contemporary nerve with useful pockets adorning aqua and coral coloured tailored coats, and chunky knitwear details.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Rachel Chapman
Rachel Chapman‘s exotic urban look saw men sporting neon wristband ruffs, appliquéd 3D flowers on shirts and prints inspired by ancient stone carvings on parka coats.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-I.R.Walcott
I.R. Walcott‘s models wore dip-dyed high-tops to match distressed devore garments inspired by the textures of the urban environment.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Anna Giles
I loved the elegant appliqué detailing on sleek dresses by Anna Giles: in this dress the green lobes remind me of a prickly cactus.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Grace Peverall
Grace Peverall went dotty with layered body con dresses that reminiscent of all over body painting by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Marion Doreau
Marion Doreau styled her menswear with some great papermache animal heads which provided a striking focal point on the catwalk.

Kirsty Anderton 2-by_gaarte
Kirsty Anderton by Gaarte
Kirsty Anderton by Gaarte.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013 Kirsty Anderton
I don’t believe there can ever be enough over the top knitwear, and Kirsty Anderton‘s skull shaped knitted dress was a major highlight of the show.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Luke Anthony Rooney
Luke Anthony Rooney successfully mixed wild colours and textures in his sculptural outfits, topped with tiaras.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Abbie Ridler
I loved the simple styling of Abbie Ridler‘s oversized mens’ jumpers, which were resplendent with abstract motifs inspired by African designs.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Sophie Chiesa
Sophie Chiesa by Chetna Shetty
Sophie Chiesa by Chetna Shetty.

Sophie Chiesa by Cathy Hookey
Sophie Chiesa by Cathy Hookey.

Sophie Chiesa‘s discharge printed catsuit was a riot of colour, styled to great effect with over the top hair extensions that would not look out of place on a Barbie doll.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Anita Tetteh
Anita Tetteh‘s tapered powder pink harem pants were worn with cream chiffon and a pencil skirt and scalloped crop top in bold monochrome stripes were a lesson in understated elegance.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Shiri Elmekless
Tailored menswear by Shiri Elmekless featured beautiful oversized shirts with clever layers of folds and beautiful button detailing.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Sylwia Szyplik
Sylwia Szyplik took inspiration from relaxed 80s style in her cream and dove grey collection.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Christia Charalambous
Scalloped sculptural cutaway shapes were combined with geometric triangle detailing and fringed mohair by Christia Charalambous.

Read my next blog to discover the best of the rest. You saw them here first!

Categories ,Abbie Ridler, ,Anita Tetteh, ,Anna Giles, ,Annest Gwynedd, ,Atrium, ,Ba Degree, ,Cathy Hookey, ,Chetna Shetty, ,Christia Charalambous, ,fashion, ,Fashion Textiles, ,Gaarte, ,Grace Peverall, ,graduate, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,I.R. Walcott, ,James Long, ,Kirsty Anderton, ,Louise Gray, ,Luke Anthony Rooney, ,Marion Doreau, ,middlesex university, ,Rachel Chapman, ,Shiri Elmekless, ,Sophie Chiesa, ,Sylwia Szyplik, ,Yayoi Kusama

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nian by Nihan Buruk: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Nian S/S 2014 by  Gaarte
Nian S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

Nian was one of a slew of Turkish designers at Fashion Scout this season, showcasing a commercial collection that featured both womens and menswear, the latter casually modelled by some burly specimens with impressive tattoos. For womenswear the collection mixed a sportswear vibe with tailored offerings in the form of sweet chiffon sleeveless shirts and pencil skirts, sweeping silk dresses worn on top of swimwear and a particularly cute silk shorts suit – all rendered in a palette of cream, slate grey, lime and dusky blue. Patterns of barbed wire and crossed bird wings featured throughout, both prints created by designer Nihan Buruk as a response to the political turmoil of recent times. This was a concise offering that should do well if the right buyers find it.

Nian S/S 2014 by  Gaarte
Nian S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Fashion Scout, ,Gaarte, ,Nian, ,Nihan Buruk, ,review, ,S/S 2014

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu AW2013 by Gaarte
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Gaarte

The ethereal eruption of colour and texture at Nova Chiu was a perfect way to end a tiring first day at London Fashion Week.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Following last season’s showcase of a light and predominantly print-based collection, the house of Nova Chiu brought the label back to it’s roots of heavy embroidery and embellishments for A/W 2013.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu by Laura Hickman
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

An immensely exciting colour palette was on display – a mix of piercing neons and rich earthy tones, much like The Electronic Super Highway’ by Korean-American artist Nam June Paik, an evident inspiration to the collection. Eclectic blends of material were also used – coloured leather, suede and horsehair blocks with embroideries and beaded trims, giving a three dimensional depth to the clothes.

Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu by Shy Illustrations
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Shy Illustrations

The garments coming down the runway were beautiful and meticulously crafted, but I found myself distracted by how bright the set lights were; unfortunately this made all the models skin look patchy with caked on foundation. Lighting aside, design duo Nova Chiu and Jeff Archer impressed with a dynamic collection that featured designs true to the label’s initial aesthetics and that are wearable enough to sell.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,catwalk, ,collection, ,colour, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,garments, ,illustration, ,Jeff Archer, ,Laura Hickman, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Nam June Paik, ,Neon, ,Nova Chiu, ,runway, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Texture, ,The Electronic Super Highway

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ong-Oaj Pairam: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Preview Interview

ONG-OAJ PAIRAM by Gaarte
ONG-OAJ PAIRAM S/S 2014 preview by Gaarte.

Thai born designer Ong-Oaj Pairam takes to the catwalk this season as part of Fashion Scout at the Freemasons’ Hall. Having trained with the likes of Proenza Schouler and Roland Mouret, he combines precise tailoring with an eye for decorative detail. I caught up with Ong-Oaj for an exclusive preview of the new collection.

Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

You studied at Brighton University (so did I!) What is the best thing about the course these days?
I found the course really tough, and found I had a hard time just keeping my head down. The beauty of studying in Brighton is the ability to escape from it all when you need to switch off. You are surrounded by the beautiful countryside and the sea. The aftercare I have got from my tutors has been really valuable and they have been really supportive of me launching my own brand. The friends I made at uni are friends for life: many are taking the day of work for me and chipping in backstage to help with the show.

What three words best describe your style?
Confident, elegant, fun.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

What did you learn from working at Proenza Schouler and Roland Mouret?
Proenza Schouler was only a small company when I started with them so I had to adapt very quickly to various roles. I would be pattern cutting, managing a runway show and running sales all in the same week. I was very lucky that Jack and Lazaro exposed me to everything. New York is also great place for people watching, and because I saw people making really brave yet sophisticated choices in what to wear it helped me develop my own style. Roland Mouret helped me refine my pattern cutting skills: he is a master at the body conscious dress. I learnt that simpler design is often harder to achieve yet just as impactful.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Spring Summer '14 Preview Collection by Rose Crees
Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014 Preview by Rose Crees.

How have you translated the idea of Drew Barrymore’s character in ET into a fashion collection? It sounds most intriguing. 
Haha, inspiration comes in the most extraordinary forms. Gertie (Drew Barrymore’s character) inspired me in many ways. Initially I emulated her childish curiosity in the creative process, exaggerating what is exciting and removing all the usual rules. She’s one tough cookie, despite her age, and I admired her strength. Without giving too much away, there are lots of cues to her character in the collection, including fabric choices, patterns, colour and perspectives. (Although there’s no gingham cowgirl uniforms or cut out bed sheet in this collection… yet…)
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013 by Zoe Gotts
Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014 preview by Zoe Gotts.

Why is it so important to you to print on British textiles, and where do you get this done?
We have so many skilled factories and teams in Britain and there is so much talent, yet it’s very easy to get work done overseas to save on cost. You miss out on a wealth of local talent, craft and inspiration if you save a few pennies by getting work done abroad. All the textiles in this collection were sourced and printed in Britain, and all my embroidery and my shoes have been manufactured here. It’s nice building a relationship with the companies and you learn so much more from the people. 
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

Embroidery was all done by Jenny King and her team, her studio is a five minute walk from my studio and she has a huge portfolio of spectacular embroidered pieces. My shoes were manufactured by Thomas Murphy, who is an incredible designer and has a small workshop in London. The textiles come from various factories, unfortunately they are mainly in Yorkshire so a bit too far for me to bribe them with cup-cakes. Printing is done through the Silk Bureau.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

How has your Thai heritage affected your approach to design? 
My Thai background has mainly affected my approach to business and my work ethic. My parents grew a successful (food) industry from nothing and inspired me to work very hard and achieve my dreams. Always start with the end in mind and keep focussed. They are also good at making sure I keep my business head on.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Brighton University, ,Drew Barrymore, ,ET, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gertie, ,interview, ,Jenny King, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ong-Oaj Pairam, ,Pop PR, ,preview, ,Proenza Schouler, ,Roland Mouret, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Silk Bureau, ,Thai, ,Thomas Murphy, ,Zoe Gotts

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pam Hogg: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Gaarte
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Gaarte.

On Saturday night I stayed later than any other day at fashion week so that I could attend the Pam Hogg show, something I have looked forward to every season since she returned to LFW: I don’t know if I will stay away late from my baby again. As usual this was a massively oversubscribed event, with plentiful rock royalty in attendance; humming and hawing at each other in the melee before the show started and then adopting a look of massive boredom for the duration of the main event, which began an hour late. Nick Rhodes, Jefferson Hack, Rankin and Princess Julia were just a few of the people in my line of sight. At this show there were named seats stretching three rows back, so I ended up far far from the action, badly positioned behind Daniel Lismore and his gigantic hat.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

Pam Hogg is nothing if not predictable: you know what you’re going to get when she puts on a show. Catsuits? Well of course, that’s her speciality. A bit of tit and muff? Check. Some outrageous headgear? Yup, all present and correct. A semi famous model? Well, here I must confess that I don’t know if she did have a famous guest this time. If she did, they weren’t on my radar.

Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Amy Dover
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Amy Dover.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory

This season Pam Hogg decorated her models with huge pleated cylinders and glossy boxes. Sheer panelled catsuits were worn by avante grade ballet dancers who wheeled and swooped midway down the catwalk; a muscly male stood sentinel before taking his whirl towards the cameras sporting ominous curled black nails.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

The colour palette featured more Pam Hogg staples; plentiful white, black and red. A dusky pink sequinned fabric that was used in abundance last season returned for another outing, as did other familiar shapes: the hooped dirndl of previous seasons made a reappearance, covered once more in ruched fabric and ribbons. Much has been made of a Britney Spears-esque glossy red catsuit (circa Oops! I did it again) but it was such a ‘Pam‘ look that I doubt she even realised the reference. My favourite looks were more of a break from the norm: a stunning A-line coat made dashing with sharp lines of red satin scorched on black, and a skin tight metallic dress that reminded me of the outfits in Blade Runner. The final looks came accessorised with huge furry headpieces that tumbled down the back.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory

When Pam Hogg came out for her final turn she too sported one of her trademark catsuits, a red and gold number that was saucily slit under the buttocks. I have it under good authority that her catsuits are superbly made and able to smooth out even the lumpiest of bodies. Maybe, at the end of the day, that’s the most important thing of all.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Amy Dover, ,Blade Runner, ,britney spears, ,Catsuits, ,catwalk show, ,celebrities, ,Daniel Alexander, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Jefferson Hack, ,London Fashion Week, ,naked, ,Nick Rhodes, ,nude, ,Oops! I did it again, ,Pam Hogg, ,Princess Julia, ,Rankin, ,review

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Fashion Scout Ones To Watch S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Youjia Jin SS2015 by Dom&Ink
Youjia Jin SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

This season Fashion Scout‘s Ones to Watch featured two designers that I spotted some time ago, and two that were new to me. Somewhat impressively, three are also alumni of the London College of Fashion.

Youjia Jin SS 2015 photography by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photography by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia GregoryYoujia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

First up Youjia Jin introduced an elegant and sophisticated predominantly monochrome collection that was sent down the catwalk to a backdrop of tribal beats. Draped pleats, belts, flared waists and cable knit were used to spice up an elegant selection of suiting worn with flat two tone shoes. The use of see through voile and steel grey dip dyeing brought further interest to a collection that was very commercially aware.

MIN WU SS2015 by Dom&Ink
MIN WU SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia GregoryMin Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Next up Min Wu did not disappoint. In fact I think this was definitely my favourite collection of the lot; somehow combining an avante grade use of fabrics and silhouette to create a very wearable and fun collection. Billowy tops were worn with suiting striped shorts, billowing chiffon bounced from hips and trompe l’oeil plastic provided additional interest. As always Min Wu accompanied the collection with marvellous accessories: curlicued headbands, colourful oversize beads and bright buttons.

Keisho Nishiyama_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte .jpg
Keisho Nishiyama by Gaarte.

Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Smoke City’s classic 90s track Underwater Love accompanied the second collection from Keiko Nishiyama. In her preview interview the Japanese designer explained how she was inspired by aquariums and collections of objects. Fluid fabrics were layered with more structured garments, printed tights adding to the busy effect. This collection was as highly patterned as her first; featuring shells, coral and fishes aplenty, but I wild have liked to see a bit more variety in her print designs.

Cassandra verity green_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte
Cassandra Verity Green by Gaarte.

Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Finally, Cassandra Verity went for a clubby feel with body con t-shirt dresses, cut out leggings and a variety of acid knitted textures. Brightly coloured wigs and fluff on collars, stoles and low heeled shoes added to the party atmosphere, with rigid plastic backpacks and clutch bags adding a very 90s air to the catwalk. Patterning was circular and optical in nature. Certainly not a collection for the faint hearted!

Categories ,Cassandra Verity, ,catwalk, ,Dom&Ink, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gaarte, ,Keiko Nishiyama, ,knitwear, ,London College of Fashion, ,Min Wu, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,S/S 2015, ,Smoke City, ,SS15, ,Underwater Love, ,Youjia Jin

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Kingston MA

Amelia_LFW1_Yasmin Siddiqui, gaarte
Yasmin Siddiqui opens the Kingston MA show. Illustration by Gaarte.

Sometimes it’s hard to be heard amongst all the chatter and noise of LFW so it’s either very foolish (who’s got time to come?) or very inspired (you’ve got a ready made captive audience) to hold your MA show at the same time. I suspect Kingston University leaned the latter way, thinking why not jump on the fashion week bandwagon? They’d even secured a slot in the hallowed Freemasons’ Hall.

Kingston MA by Katherine Tromans Helen Taylor
Helen Taylor by Katherine Tromans.

Kingston MA by Katherine Tromans Alison Firth
Kingston MA by Katherine Tromans Alison Firth
Alison Firth by Katherine Tromans.

But it was late in the day, those of us who had been trogging around all day were pretty bloody knackered. Then the show was running behind and it was bloody hot in the hall… and we didn’t even have seated tickets. It seemed those had gone to the copious quantities of friends and relatives brought along by so many participants. Note to PRs – if you give us shit tickets you’ll probably get shit photos – I was hardly able to snap anything decent from my vantage point. And if you desperately want to be heard it really does pay to get the press on your side. With pretty pics.

Abby_Wright_Kingston_show Stacey Grant
Judy Zhang by Abby Wright.

Luckily we’ve got a crack team of illustrators who can make a proverbial silk purse out of a sow’s ear, or a beautiful image out of… well… not very much to look at, (which is just as well). But still, I like to have the option of good photos too. Pick ‘n’ mix and all that.

Amelia_LFW2_gaarte Yasmin Siddiqui,
Yasmin Siddiqui by Gaarte.

Amelia_LFW3_gaarte Faraz Hussain
Faraz Hussain by Gaarte.

And then the show went on… and on… Okay, so there’s a bonus to seeing several designers at once – when they’re of a very high calibre and you haven’t got a million other things to see and do. But I have to say, Kingston Uni, that this wasn’t up to the standard that London Fashion Week has become accustomed to. People were sneaking off all around me. Which leads me to my second piece of advice. Only go up against the best of what London design has to offer if you’re sure you can match it!

LFW-KingstonMA-Gemma-Milly Victor Chan
Victor Chan by Gemma Milly.

I’m sure many of the Kingston MA students are very talented, but I’m struggling to remember anything that stood out, and that is a bad thing. A lot of it was very similar in feel, nondescript in colouring with draping, oversize accessories and protrusions everywhere (they seem to be very much du jour) And I’m sorry, but a load of polygonally moulded leathers do not a fashion designer make.

LFW-KingstonMA2-Gemma-Milly Raine Hodgson
Raine Hodgson by Gemma Milly.

Stand outs, if I’m pushed? Obviously the first piece, courtesy of Yasmin Siddiqui, was a great piece of statement jewellery. There was some strong colouring combinations in the menswear from Faraz Hussain and Helen Taylor’s male jumpsuit was fun, as was her styling with wooden head frames. Generally I had a strong sense of shapelessness going on. But hey! I’ll let you make up your minds for yourselves, and in the meantime I think you’ll agree that my illustrators have done sterling work.

Kingston MA Yasmin Siddiqui photo by Amelia Gregory
Kingston MA Yasmin Siddiqui photo by Amelia Gregory
Yasmin Siddiqui. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Kingston MA Stacey Grant photo by Amelia Gregory
Stacey Grant

Kingston MA Faraz Hussain photo by Amelia Gregory
Faraz Hussain

Kingston MA Judy Zhang photo by Amelia Gregory
Kingston MA Judy Zhang photo by Amelia Gregory
Judy Zhang

Kingston MA Alison Firth photo by Amelia Gregory
Alison Firth

Kingston MA Helen Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory
Kingston MA Helen Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory
Helen Taylor

Kingston MA Victor Chan photo by Amelia Gregory
Victor Chan

Kingston MA Patricia Osbahr photo by Amelia Gregory
Patricia Osbahr

Categories ,Abby Wright, ,Alison Firth, ,Faraz Hussain, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gemma Milly, ,Graduate Show, ,Helen Taylor, ,Judy Zhang, ,Katherine Tromans, ,Kingston MA. LFW, ,London Fashion Week, ,Patricia Osbahr, ,Raine Hodgson, ,Stacey Grant, ,Victor Chan, ,Yasmin Siddiqui

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Felder Felder

Felder Felder SS 2011 by t.reidy

Felder Felder S/S 2011 by t.reidy.

Felder Felder are identical twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder, and who studied together at Central Saint Martins (of course). According to the press release their S/S 2012 collection BANG! looked to the ‘bravery and bitten romance‘ of choreographer Pina Bausch, dosage which inspired their ‘modern undone style‘ of the kind preferred by uptown girls such as Jen Brill. Having never heard of Jen Brill I had to go google her: a model and photography agent of Chinese Australian origin she has or is apparently dating Terry Richardson. Which would account for her sudden it-girl infamy.

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

Since the twins graduated just a few years ago they have quickly built a reputation for quirky combinations of girly and rock n roll aesthetics: attracting some famous patrons that include Rihanna, website like this Gwyneth Paltrow, and if the front row was anything to go by the ultimate Brit it-girl Peaches Geldof.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

A very gaunt looking Peaches was sat right across from me, her mouth dangling agog through the whole show as if desperate for a good meal. For god’s sake woman, eat! She kept self consciously adjusting her pose but luckily she didn’t distract me for long.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory peaches geldof

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

BANG! began with stunning graphic prints that swirled and splatted across flirty skater skirts paired with loose blouses. Over the top bondage inspired neck collars criss-crossed the chest and joined with belts to give a more hard edged feel. Stunning shoes by Kat Maconie were also given a matching print treatment, whilst metallic jackets, a dress and miniature backpack in glitzy pale blue added pizazz.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

Sheer fabrics were embellished with signature Felder Felder studs, this time offered in dangling bullet shapes on sweeping black dresses and short white frocks. Orange made a sunny appearance on models with slicked back locks and a collaboration with Triumph produced some sexy bikinis: oh to have a body like one of those models. It did at times feel as though there were too many incongruous shapes within one collection: A-line, bodycon, maxi, draped, flirty, they were all there.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Back at Somerset House I copped a quick feel of the gorgeous fabrics at the Felder Felder stand and quickly understood their appeal: no wonder it-girls, singers and actresses love the pretty yet hard-edged Felder Felder look.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,BANG!, ,Barb Royal, ,BFC Tent, ,bodycon, ,Bullet, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Choreographer, ,Embellishment, ,Felder Felder, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gwyneth Paltrow, ,it-girl, ,Jen Brill, ,Kat Maconie, ,leather, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Metallic, ,Peaches Geldof, ,Pina Bausch, ,print, ,Rihanna, ,S/S 2012, ,Somerset House, ,Studs, ,t.reidy, ,Tina Reidy, ,Triumph, ,Twins

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Prophetik (by Amelia)

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Gilly Rochester
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Gilly Rochester.

I will confess now. I may have gone over the top. Yes, nurse physician this blog is positively popping at the seams with illustrations. And it’s the FOURTH, clinic yes the FOURTH one to hit our website. But really it’s no surprise that Prophetik is such a big draw for both writers and illustrators, prostate peddling as he does an uber romantic view of the world that is steeped in a deep love for the natural environment.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson.

For his A/W 2011 Artist Wonderment collection designer Jeff Garner once again referenced times past, this time the “frivolous snobbery” of the court of Louix XV, an epoch that for him epitomises the falsity of impulsive consumption. Having interviewed Jeff Garner for my book, Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration I know how important it is for him to live a fully accountable life, and it seems to me that the title of this collection refers to the purity of artistic vision which he himself attempts to put into practice in everything he does.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Gilly RochesterProphetik A/W 2011 by Gilly RochesterProphetik A/W 2011 by Gilly Rochester
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Gilly Rochester.

The show opened in typical Jeff style, with live vocals followed by a madly thrashing classical violinist, who strutted down the catwalk as if her life depended on it.

Analiza Ching by Amelia Gregory
Violinist Analiza Ching by Gabriel 'Gaarte' Ayala
Violinist Analiza Ching by Gabriel ‘Gaarte’ Ayala.

But it was the finer detailing which really stood out as the models swept past me. His ball gowns and corseted dresses were awash with gorgeously constructed patchwork, twirly brocade, gilded buttons and ruffles. At a time when trains, tails, hooped and boned structures of every description have been big across all runways, his is an aesthetic which makes total sense right now.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Danielle Shepherd
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Danielle Shepherd.

For me the absolute stand outs were a couple of stupendous quilted jackets… and by quilted I really do actually mean made out of antique quilts, one of which belonged on his childhood bed that he must surely have baulked at destructing – just a tiny bit. But as his stylist Rebekah Roy pointed out to me later on, it makes absolute sense to refashion a quilt in this way – a quilt that in the very first place was made from fabric remnants.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson.

This approach of continuous upcycling is certainly innovative, and epitomises what I love most about Jeff: his dedication to sustainable practice. All his fabrics are painstakingly hand dyed with a magical potion of herbs in a process that takes many weeks to accomplish – this season’s special plum colour was obtained by mixing up a unique blend of madder root, sorrel, logwood and indigo.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Karina Yarv
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Karina Yarv.

The love he puts into every single part of his work is evident in the outcome, and of anyone on the ethical fashion scene I really feel that Prophetik is pushing the way forward by putting on a ambitious catwalk show that ensures excitement amongst mainstream fashionistas. Prophetik opened Fashion Scout for the third season running and the Freemasons Hall was packed to the rafters, including famous front row attendees in the form of Hilary Alexander and Livia Firth, erstwhile wife of Colin and celebrity advocate of ethical fashion. At the end Jeff took a demure bow dressed in a cream silky ruffled top and powder blue peddle pushers, sporting his trademark swept back ponytail: if there’s one major advocate for dressing this way it’s the ever dapper Jeff Garner himself.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Farzeen JabbarProphetik A/W 2011 by Farzeen Jabbar
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Farzeen Jabbar.

I can only hope that Jeff’s dedication to the ethical cause will rub off on other members of the fashion industry. Soon.

You can read Matt Bramford’s review here, Helen Martin’s review here and Katie Antoniou’s review here.

Prophetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read more about Jeff Garner‘s design philosophy in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Analiza Ching, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Artist Wonderment, ,Danielle Shepherd, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Farzeen Jabbar, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Jeff Garner, ,Karina Yarv, ,Livia Firth, ,Louix XV, ,Prophetik, ,Quilt, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Upcycling, ,Violinist

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