Amelia’s Magazine | Tata Naka: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Presentation Review

Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

Since Tata Naka returned to London Fashion Week it has become customary for Tamara and Natasha Surguladze to create a wonderful set that they photograph live for their upcoming season’s look book: it’s a great concept and always a lot of fun to watch from the sidelines: the whole experience more akin to voyeurism than the traditional catwalk show. This season the Georgian twins were inspired by American High School movies and the multitude of references that underpin these down the decades. So here we had very preppy 50s styles abutting up against the big bouffant hair of the 1980s, a very direct reference to which was found in the graffiti wall that provided the backdrop to one set up, ‘Breakfast Club‘ written in bubble writing above a heart. Sugary coloured tweeds were layered over stripes and trademark graphic prints that merged Mondrian blocks with Pop Art faces, the illustrative elements of which were inspired by iconic scenes from key 80s movies. As we milled around we were served cocktails in milk cartons by ‘dinner ladies’ courtesy of Bompas & Parr.

Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Rebecca French
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Rebecca French.

In the locker room sweethearts covered a simple pencil dress, the detail echoed in a cute cut out back. An A-line skirt was worn with a baseball jacket: other girls wore big quiffs and pastel blocks, both tapered trousers and pencil skirts given sheer mesh slices at the hemlines. Sets were changed with alarming speed and confidence, but the downside of this way of showing is that unless you have an hour or so free you will only manage to see a small portion of the collection. I managed to see two set changes by Chameleon Visual: Jenny Robins took photos of the cheerleaders at the bleachers, and there was also a Prom shoot, where sweethearts emerged yet again as a major theme. The talented Tata Naka twins once more showcased their inventive A/W 2013 collection in wonderfully inimitable style. I have come to expect nothing less.

Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka A/W 2013. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Tata Naka by Jenny Robins
Tata Naka by Jenny Robins
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Jenny Robins.

Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu.

Tata_Naka by_Daniel_Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

Categories ,1980s, ,50s, ,A/W 2013, ,American High School movies, ,Bompas & Parr, ,Breakfast Club, ,Chameleon Visual, ,Cheerleaders, ,Cissy Hu, ,Daniel Alexander, ,Georgian, ,Jenny Robins, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mondrian, ,Movies, ,Pop Art, ,Prom, ,Rebecca French, ,Tamara and Natasha Surguladze, ,Tata Naka

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Amelia’s Magazine | Teatum Jones: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Presentation Review

Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

Teatum Jones have been wowing the Amelia’s Magazine reviewers with their well thought out presentations for the past few seasons, but this was my first turn at a one of their shows. In the past this design duo have showcased collections in the RSA and Liberty, but this season their venue was the incredibly posh Dorchester Hotel – think flower arrangements in the entrance hall the size of small trees.

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu.

Guests were signed in then directed past an arrangement of fine teas and dainty biscuits into a wood lined and mirrored chamber, the centrepiece of which was a set arranged around a butterfly decorated chalkboard bookcase. The models rotated in groups of four, each replaced as the last one in the line up departed, in the kind of graceful dance that comes with great preparation and strict time keeping. Titled ‘To My Youth… How we Laughed in Darkness‘, this collection was inspired by Vladimir Nabokov, best known as the author of Lolita, a man who was obsessed with butterflies and the transience of beauty (his famous novel was written during an annual butterfly collecting trip in the western US).

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

Models posed nonchalantly with open books, the covers artfully attired with the dominant print of the collection: large scale painterly splashes of red, indigo and forest green on a white ground. Designers Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones are renowned for their conceptual approach to fashion, so the story of Vladimir was translated into an array of beautiful garments using the finest fabrics, each of which was chosen for its part in that tale: ‘Delicate silk chiffons, double georgette and heavy crepes provide the canvas for these romantically sinister rows of captured species doused in javelin proportioned pins.’

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

Such intense attention to detail was translated into eminently wearable garments using the finest craftsmanship. A textured leather biker jacket was swung casually over the shoulder of a softly belted silk shirt dress, a cream polka dot lace shirt was used as the delicate base for a black puff hemmed waistcoat dress in a shiny textured wool, a miniature cape in midnight blue looked demure with cream and glittery black. But it was their fabulous print, reminiscent of huge summer blooms, that really captured my attention. It came as a relaxed sporty look in a giant hole punched shirt, as a floaty skirt and as a stunning strapless maxi dress that dropped in pleats from the bust, complete with handy pockets that the model was able to flaunt as she mosied around the room. Sod the cold weather, for A/W 2013 I dare you to wear big bold painterly florals.

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Butterflies, ,Catherine Teatum, ,Cissy Hu, ,Dorchester Hotel, ,Laura Hickman, ,liberty, ,Lolita, ,Rob Jones, ,rsa, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Teatum Jones, ,To My Youth… How we Laughed in Darkness, ,Vladimir Nabokov

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Amelia’s Magazine | Timur Kim: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Timur Kim AW2013 by Gareth A Hopkins
Timur Kim LFW A/W 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins

I like my fashion like I like my art: messy. I prefer Pollock to Rembrandt and Matisse to Van Eyck. When I was little my mother would tell me “you look like you’ve been dragged through a hedge backwards.” If someone told me that now I would reply with mock offense, while secretly thrilled; with one hand plumping my hair with great pride and with one leg kicking yesterday’s pop-socks out of my jeans. Okay, okay, it’s not really that extreme, but I do like a bit of rough and ready in my outfits. Despite all this, I can’t help but be charmed by the relaxed sophistication of Timur Kim‘s LFW A/W 2013 collection.

Timur Kim AW 2013
Timur Kim AW 2013
Timur Kim LFW A/W 2013 by Cruz Martinez
Timur Kim LFW A/W 2013 by Cruz Martinez

Timur Kim‘s clothes aren’t as wild as I like them, in fact they aren’t wild at all, but there’s a definite attractive femininity to the dresses as well as a practical, real-life girl vibe. The dresses aren’t the oh so common patronisingly femme I’ve grown used to, and instead the collection is subtle, light and refreshing. Skin for the sake of skin is not a feature of this show and there’s a modesty to the dresses, which are all knee-length, and there’s no cleavage in sight. The colours are muted, never too bright or shocking and the collection comes together really well as a whole.

Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
The dresses march up and down the runway to American Pie. With brogue-clad feet to complete the image, as well as prints which are inspired by the ceilings of the Hermitage Museum.

Timur Kim AW 2013
Timur Kim AW 2013
Timur Kim LFW A/W 2013 by Cruz Martinez
Timur Kim LFW A/W 2013 by Cruz Martinez

A metallic skirt paired with a casual tee bearing the show logo is my favourite look of Timur Kim‘s collection, and I’m particularly enamoured with the tousled locks of the models. These are models without slicked back, over-styled hair and instead they sport free-flowing freshly-brushed do’s with a hint of bed-head.

Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
The smart geometric-print dresses are ideal for work-wear and there’s plenty of frocks that would suit everything from cocktails to office. The pieces are so wearable in fact, that I can imagine them in my own wardrobe (if I was willing to sell a kidney to cover the cost). The way the seats are arranged at a show make a big difference to the audience, however as a non-frequent Londoner, nothing says ‘underground’ to me like facing a row of strangers with people coming and going between you. This is not helped by the yellow lines on the floor of Freemasons’ Hall. I love watching audiences and although my knowledge of celebrities pretty much begins at Victoria and ends at Beckham, I know my bloggers and notice Susie Bubble, complete with adorable backpack, in the crowd.

Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Central Saint Martins graduate Timur Kim has come up with a well balanced collection. Although there is a broad range of styles: with cigarette trousers alongside 1950′s skirts; the inspiration for the dresses is subtle with a twist of modernity, making this collection thoroughly indie. Whether it’s a Victorian feel or tribal prints, this Russian designer smartens it up for the modern day woman, then makes sure she lets her hair down.

Timur Kim AW 2013
All Photography by Jessica Cook and Amelia Gregory.

A pretty brunette gets up right before the show starts and walks up and down the runway, as though she’s looking for a friend. People sigh audibly with annoyance at this, perhaps because from day one, they are already accustomed to the LFW crowd attention-seeking which seems to play a part in the dynamics of these events. Or maybe they wish they were walking up the catwalk in their own kitten-heels, play-pretend modelling themselves. The girl seems lost, happy and clueless to the cynical eyes around her. Like Timur Kim‘s clothes, she is unpretentious and all the more beautiful for it.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Cruz Martinez, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Hermitage Museum, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Susie Bubble, ,Timur Kim

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Amelia’s Magazine | Yeashin: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Yeashin A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

South Korean designer Yeashin Kim‘s Woodland collection juxtaposed traditional Korean dress with inspiration from the swinging 60s. The colourful results built on the look she has been honing since completing her studies in fine arts and then attending the London College of Fashion.

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin A/W 2013 by Victoria Wright
Yeashin A/W 2013 by Victoria Wright
Yeashin A/W 2013 by Victoria Wright.

A multitude of textures were thrown together and somehow emerged victorious. Oversized embellished hats, plenty of colourful trims and digitally printed woodgrain based on Korean furniture lent the collection a fairytale feel, with bespoke woolly boots adorned with pompoms adding to the idea that the models could have stepped off the pages of a children’s book (no bad thing in my world).

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.
Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin-by-Sylwia-Szyszka
Yeashin A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Skirts were predominantly short and flared, collars adorned with on trend details, cuffs beautifully buttoned or trimmed in wool. Knitwear came in the form of a dotty cape, bolero and cosy looking chequerboard coat. Yeashin‘s was a delightfully unique collection in this time of monochrome madness, and all the better for it.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,knitwear, ,Laura Hickman, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,South Korean, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Victoria Wright, ,woodland, ,Yeashin, ,Yeashin Kim

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Amelia’s Magazine | Yifang Wan, Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review


Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

Fashion Week A/W 2013 got off to a cracking start on Friday, for anybody who actually turned up. I didn’t, thanks to the effects of an anti-Valentine’s cocktail binge, instead spent the evening in bed with fish and chips and half a bottle of Rioja. So it was Saturday morning where my season started, heading as I did to this season’s Fashion Scout Merit Award winner – Yifang Wan.


Photography by Amelia Gregory

Previous Merit Award winners including David Koma, Felder Felder, William Tempest and Leutton Postle have all gone on to establish successful labels and the pressure of such previous acclaim must be terrifying — but its effects weren’t evident in this polished collection by Yifang Wan.


Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink


All other photography by Matt Bramford

Record numbers packed the ‘white room’ of the Freemasons’ Hall, and so my view of the show was framed by a diminutive Frenchman wielding a vogue.fr microphone like a maniac and a very excitable girl with masses of hair. Her head was all over the place trying to secure a good shot and I was forced to perform a strange sort of swaying dance with my zoom lens, not unlike an Emperor penguin.


Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

I’d briefly taken an interest in Wan‘s work when the Merit prize was awarded at the beginning of the year, and her previous collections draw inspiration from her Asian heritage and long, draped silhouettes dominate her previous outings. So it was no surprise, in the best possible way, to see these themes continued for A/W 2013, with inspiration from performance artist ‪Marina Abramović‬, most famous for sitting in a smock and staring at New Yorkers in the MOMA for 700 hours.

Only four rich colours featured in this collection – deep blue, green, red and black in thick fabrics. Jackets came with triangular slices removed almost with abandon as fabrics draped asymmetrically and architecturally. Almost every piece skimmed the floor, while fabric swayed and draped in different directions with emphasis on Far Eastern cuts. Each piece was accessorised with intriguing angular sculptural pieces, some worn around necks, others carried almost like weaponry.

Yifang Wan is no stranger to awards, having won the L’Oreal Professionel Award at Saint Martins as an MA student. Her £25,000 prize this season will hopefully propel the designer’s label in the direction it deserves.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,A/W’13, ,catwalk, ,Central Saint Martins, ,East, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Kimono, ,marina abramovic, ,Matt Bramford, ,Merit Award, ,Orient, ,review, ,Yifang Wan

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Amelia’s Magazine | Yulia Kondranina: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by youdesignme
Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by youdesignme.

Russian designer and Central Saint Martins graduate Yulia Kondranina was last to show at Ones to Watch, with a small collection of immaculate construction: models stepped out on the catwalk in heavily tasselled dresses, the threads swaying gracefully around legs and arms as they walked. Black threads on black created an elegant gothic feel, whilst white on black was a very on trend nod to the monochrome colour palette which has been omnipresent this season.

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory
ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory
ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory
Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

My favourites were undoubtably the three colourful dresses with which Yulia Kondranina ended her show, jewel coloured and swinging flatteringly around hips over the top of tube skirts. I was able to check out the dresses up close at the Fashion Scout exhibition, where I discovered that the delicate threads were given substance with clever internal hoops. I’m not sure how easy they would be to wear, but the collection was beautifully conceived.

ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory
ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory
Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Laura Hickman, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,Russian, ,youdesignme

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Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Tosun: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass
Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass.

There was one designer who made a unanimously good impression on the massed guests of Fashion Scout, and the one who had us all talking was Zeynep Tosun. She’s shown in London before but this was the first catwalk show that I’ve attended and I was very impressed.

zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep-Tosun-by-Alexandra-Haddow
Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013 by Alexandra Haddow.

Zeynep Tosun is a graduate of the Istituto di Marangoni in Milan, she has worked at Alberta Ferretti and I was not surprised to discover that she has a flagship store in Istanbul from where she sells her couture pieces: this was an ultra professional show featuring a huge and immaculately conceived collection, styled to perfection. Of particular note were the fabrics and construction: fine tooled leather thigh high cowboy boots, swirling embroideries reminiscent of 70s furnishings, brocade, complex digital prints on velvet and jewelled embellishments galore. There be money behind this ‘ere label.

zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Models wore deep red lips and slicked back centre parted hair, a few loose tendrils curling in front of the ears. This season’s high neckline came as a chin skimming ruff of Tudor proportions, lending the collection an air of primness. Silhouettes from different eras somehow sat well together: boxy jackets and flared pencil skirts from the 80s met brown and gold wide legged trouser suits from the 70s. All this came in a charming colour palette of cream, red, gold and black that was reminiscent of Renaissance paintings.

zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

With funds to back this impressive talent we should be seeing plenty more of Turkish lass Zeynep Tosun in the seasons to come.

Categories ,70s, ,A/W 2013, ,Alberta Ferretti, ,Alexandra Haddow, ,Chloe Douglass, ,Fashion Scout, ,Istanbul, ,Istituto di Marangoni, ,London Fashion Week, ,Milan, ,Turkish, ,Zeynep Tosun

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu AW2013 by Gaarte
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Gaarte

The ethereal eruption of colour and texture at Nova Chiu was a perfect way to end a tiring first day at London Fashion Week.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Following last season’s showcase of a light and predominantly print-based collection, the house of Nova Chiu brought the label back to it’s roots of heavy embroidery and embellishments for A/W 2013.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu by Laura Hickman
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

An immensely exciting colour palette was on display – a mix of piercing neons and rich earthy tones, much like The Electronic Super Highway’ by Korean-American artist Nam June Paik, an evident inspiration to the collection. Eclectic blends of material were also used – coloured leather, suede and horsehair blocks with embroideries and beaded trims, giving a three dimensional depth to the clothes.

Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu by Shy Illustrations
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Shy Illustrations

The garments coming down the runway were beautiful and meticulously crafted, but I found myself distracted by how bright the set lights were; unfortunately this made all the models skin look patchy with caked on foundation. Lighting aside, design duo Nova Chiu and Jeff Archer impressed with a dynamic collection that featured designs true to the label’s initial aesthetics and that are wearable enough to sell.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,catwalk, ,collection, ,colour, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,garments, ,illustration, ,Jeff Archer, ,Laura Hickman, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Nam June Paik, ,Neon, ,Nova Chiu, ,runway, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Texture, ,The Electronic Super Highway

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ong-Oaj Pairam: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Preview Interview

ONG-OAJ PAIRAM by Gaarte
ONG-OAJ PAIRAM S/S 2014 preview by Gaarte.

Thai born designer Ong-Oaj Pairam takes to the catwalk this season as part of Fashion Scout at the Freemasons’ Hall. Having trained with the likes of Proenza Schouler and Roland Mouret, he combines precise tailoring with an eye for decorative detail. I caught up with Ong-Oaj for an exclusive preview of the new collection.

Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

You studied at Brighton University (so did I!) What is the best thing about the course these days?
I found the course really tough, and found I had a hard time just keeping my head down. The beauty of studying in Brighton is the ability to escape from it all when you need to switch off. You are surrounded by the beautiful countryside and the sea. The aftercare I have got from my tutors has been really valuable and they have been really supportive of me launching my own brand. The friends I made at uni are friends for life: many are taking the day of work for me and chipping in backstage to help with the show.

What three words best describe your style?
Confident, elegant, fun.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

What did you learn from working at Proenza Schouler and Roland Mouret?
Proenza Schouler was only a small company when I started with them so I had to adapt very quickly to various roles. I would be pattern cutting, managing a runway show and running sales all in the same week. I was very lucky that Jack and Lazaro exposed me to everything. New York is also great place for people watching, and because I saw people making really brave yet sophisticated choices in what to wear it helped me develop my own style. Roland Mouret helped me refine my pattern cutting skills: he is a master at the body conscious dress. I learnt that simpler design is often harder to achieve yet just as impactful.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Spring Summer '14 Preview Collection by Rose Crees
Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014 Preview by Rose Crees.

How have you translated the idea of Drew Barrymore’s character in ET into a fashion collection? It sounds most intriguing. 
Haha, inspiration comes in the most extraordinary forms. Gertie (Drew Barrymore’s character) inspired me in many ways. Initially I emulated her childish curiosity in the creative process, exaggerating what is exciting and removing all the usual rules. She’s one tough cookie, despite her age, and I admired her strength. Without giving too much away, there are lots of cues to her character in the collection, including fabric choices, patterns, colour and perspectives. (Although there’s no gingham cowgirl uniforms or cut out bed sheet in this collection… yet…)
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013 by Zoe Gotts
Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014 preview by Zoe Gotts.

Why is it so important to you to print on British textiles, and where do you get this done?
We have so many skilled factories and teams in Britain and there is so much talent, yet it’s very easy to get work done overseas to save on cost. You miss out on a wealth of local talent, craft and inspiration if you save a few pennies by getting work done abroad. All the textiles in this collection were sourced and printed in Britain, and all my embroidery and my shoes have been manufactured here. It’s nice building a relationship with the companies and you learn so much more from the people. 
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

Embroidery was all done by Jenny King and her team, her studio is a five minute walk from my studio and she has a huge portfolio of spectacular embroidered pieces. My shoes were manufactured by Thomas Murphy, who is an incredible designer and has a small workshop in London. The textiles come from various factories, unfortunately they are mainly in Yorkshire so a bit too far for me to bribe them with cup-cakes. Printing is done through the Silk Bureau.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

How has your Thai heritage affected your approach to design? 
My Thai background has mainly affected my approach to business and my work ethic. My parents grew a successful (food) industry from nothing and inspired me to work very hard and achieve my dreams. Always start with the end in mind and keep focussed. They are also good at making sure I keep my business head on.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Brighton University, ,Drew Barrymore, ,ET, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gertie, ,interview, ,Jenny King, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ong-Oaj Pairam, ,Pop PR, ,preview, ,Proenza Schouler, ,Roland Mouret, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Silk Bureau, ,Thai, ,Thomas Murphy, ,Zoe Gotts

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Amelia’s Magazine | Orla Kiely: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Presentation Review


Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

Ireland’s Orla Kiely has firmly established her eponymous London label over the seasons with 1960s silhouettes, playful prints and rich fabrics. While the look book each season is never going to shock or win any awards for pushing the boundaries of fashion, style fans head to Orla for staple vintage pieces that are playful and pretty. But to judge Orla against the likes of Azzedine Alaïa or Hussein Chalayan would be missing the point. Always a nod to decades past, previous presentations have included film screenings directed by Gia Coppola and Mercedes Helnwein.


All photography by Matt Bramford

This season’s presentation took place in the intriguing Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, a gallery off Denmark Street that often hosts fashion press days; its labyrinth of rooms lend themselves well to presentations of this nature. A long arm of the upper floor had been transformed into a retro working-girl’s space that could have been lifted straight from a scene from Mad Men or working-class hero flick Made in Dagenham.


Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

Numerous models appeared at the entrance to the elongated space wearing this season’s take on Orla’s signature looks, as an unobtrusive soundtrack made up mostly of the clatter of a typewriter played. Beehive barnets piled high atop models’ heads. Orla’s girls were superbly cast, more as actresses than runway models: loading typewriters, filing paperwork, nattering quietly and changing ‘shifts’ regularly to allow other models to enter the showcase.


Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

Attention to detail was key, with design perverts like me eyeing up mid-century Scandinavian furniture, Smiths‘ clocks and old graphic signage as much as the outfits themselves.

Statement features this season include high-waisted dresses with girly a-line hems, flocked coats with swirling patterns, pleated and pointed collars, embroidered squirrels and a-line overcoats using Orla Kiely‘s signature shape.


Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

This kind of thoughtful, preciously executed presentation is the way forward. With never-ending developments in technology and record numbers at catwalk shows, presentations allow you to fully gage the nuances of collections and document them effectively, rather than the scramble to photograph, tweet, Facebook, Vine, MySpace, tumblr, Foursquare and Grindr your way through a catwalk show.


Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

Another infinitely wearable collection that will satisfy the label’s fans en masse.

Categories ,1950s, ,1960s, ,A/W 2013, ,A/W’13, ,beehive, ,Dom&Ink, ,Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, ,ireland, ,Laura Hickman, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mad Men, ,Made in Dagenham, ,Matt Bramford, ,Orla Kiely, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Smiths clocks, ,vintage

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