Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Tosun: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass
Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass.

There was one designer who made a unanimously good impression on the massed guests of Fashion Scout, and the one who had us all talking was Zeynep Tosun. She’s shown in London before but this was the first catwalk show that I’ve attended and I was very impressed.

zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep-Tosun-by-Alexandra-Haddow
Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013 by Alexandra Haddow.

Zeynep Tosun is a graduate of the Istituto di Marangoni in Milan, she has worked at Alberta Ferretti and I was not surprised to discover that she has a flagship store in Istanbul from where she sells her couture pieces: this was an ultra professional show featuring a huge and immaculately conceived collection, styled to perfection. Of particular note were the fabrics and construction: fine tooled leather thigh high cowboy boots, swirling embroideries reminiscent of 70s furnishings, brocade, complex digital prints on velvet and jewelled embellishments galore. There be money behind this ‘ere label.

zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Models wore deep red lips and slicked back centre parted hair, a few loose tendrils curling in front of the ears. This season’s high neckline came as a chin skimming ruff of Tudor proportions, lending the collection an air of primness. Silhouettes from different eras somehow sat well together: boxy jackets and flared pencil skirts from the 80s met brown and gold wide legged trouser suits from the 70s. All this came in a charming colour palette of cream, red, gold and black that was reminiscent of Renaissance paintings.

zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

With funds to back this impressive talent we should be seeing plenty more of Turkish lass Zeynep Tosun in the seasons to come.

Categories ,70s, ,A/W 2013, ,Alberta Ferretti, ,Alexandra Haddow, ,Chloe Douglass, ,Fashion Scout, ,Istanbul, ,Istituto di Marangoni, ,London Fashion Week, ,Milan, ,Turkish, ,Zeynep Tosun

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Amelia’s Magazine | MAC Semi-Precious Collection: New Mineral Make Up Range from the Mata Atlantica Coast of Brazil

MAC Semi Precious range by AntoniaParker
MAC Semi-Precious range by Antonia Parker. Her lady wears Hint of Sapphire on eyes, case Geo Pink on lips, sildenafil Warmth of Coral blush. The background is inspired by Blue Sheen eyeshadow.

Now, I don’t generally get that excited about the launch of a new make up range, but I was most intrigued when I learnt (on the grapevine) about the new MAC Semi-Precious Collection. Why, you may well ask? Well, this large new beauty range boasts plenty of semi precious mineral ingredients and the final products are intriguing – a swirly shimmer of glistening particles that reflect the source of their creation. Time to find out a bit more….

MAC semi precious range collection review 2011

Over at MAC HQ Jennifer Balbier and Nick Gavrelis are the brains behind the collection, inspired by trips to Brazil where the use of natural minerals in make up is much more commonplace. The minerals are pulverised into very small particles and then baked into the marbleised finishes that typify the collection. They were helped in their knowledge of the Brazilian beauty arena by Fabiana Gomes, who grew up in Curitiba and has worked with MAC since they opened their first store in Brazil in 2002. Beauty is super important in Brazil, so the launch of the Semi-Precious Collection clearly sees MAC with one eye on this huge emerging customer base.

MAC semi precious by Lorna Scobie
MAC semi precious by Lorna Scobie.

But what about the really interesting stuff? The ingredients themselves? The finely milled gems which have been chosen for the Semi-Precious range are Bronzite, Black Tourmaline, Gold Pyrite and Lilac Lepidolite – each of which create beautiful jewel-like colours and are also believed to have some interesting properties.

MAC semi precious range collection review 2011

Bronzite, the Stone of Courtesy, is a deep chocolate colour with golden swirls, believed to be energised by the Earth, thus improving metabolism and oxygenation at a micro level (wow, all that from wearing a pretty eye shadow!)

Black Tourmaline is iron rich and known as the Electric Stone because it conducts a gentle current – for this reason it’s believed to neutralise negative energies and enhance happiness in the wearer.

Gold Pyrite is very bright and metallic as anyone will know who has marvelled at Fool’s Gold. It’s the Fire Stone, sparking when struck against iron and steel. For this reason it’s associated with stamina and transforming intuition into logic and reasoned action. It also aids concentration and fosters open communication.

Lepidolite is a member of the Mica family. It is the Peace Stone, used to encourage openness and honesty. It is believed to dissipate pain when placed on the body, to relieve allergies and stabilise mood swings. If wearing a pretty lipstick can do this I’ll be damned, but there’s nothing like a bit of folklore to encourage sales.

MAC Semi Precious by Sally Jane Thompson
MAC Semi Precious by Sally Jane Thompson.

Research was done by the MAC team in Canada and the minerals were mined by Solabia International – slogan Between Nature and Technology – then put together to echo the beauty of the Brazilian landscape in their laboratory just outside Milan. Solabia mines on the Mata Atlantica coast of Brazil where the four precious stones are found, following an ethical code of practice laid out by DNPM the Brazilian National Department of Mineral Production. I am assured that the process does not use large quantities of water.

MAC semi precious range collection review 2011

The Semi-Precious stones are used in Mineralize eye shadow, blush and lipstick, though the new range also features body lotions as well as mascara and foundation. With names like Pure Magnificence, Natural Flare, and Geo Pink the geographical nature of the ingredients is always at the fore. I’ve been wearing the Golden Gaze on my eyes over the past few days and the way that the gold particles are swirled together with black gives a multi-layered finish that is very different to your average eye shadow: think sultry charcoal grey with a glinting hint of gold once on the eyelid – a subtle look that is totally suitable for daytime. I’ve also tried the Feeling Flush blusher, which is a perky pink colour on the skin. Be warned though, I needed very little of this to achieve a strong effect.

Mac Semi Precious by Claire Kearns
Mac Semi Precious by Claire Kearns.

MAC Semi-Precious was launched in the US & UK last week so it should be available at make-up counters near you very soon….

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Beauty, ,Between Nature and Technology, ,Black Tourmaline, ,Blue Sheen, ,Blusher, ,brazil, ,Brazilian National Department of Mineral Production, ,Bronzite, ,canada, ,Claire Kearns, ,Coast, ,Curitiba, ,DNPM, ,Electric Stone, ,eye shadow, ,Fabiana Gomes, ,Feeling Flush, ,Fire Stone, ,Folklore, ,Fool’s Gold, ,Geo Pink, ,Gold Pyrite, ,Golden Gaze, ,Hint of Sapphire, ,Honesty, ,HQ, ,Intuition, ,Jennifer Balbier, ,Jewel, ,Lepidolite, ,Lilac Lepidolite, ,Lipstick, ,Logic, ,Lorna Scobie, ,Mac, ,Make-up, ,Mata Atlantica, ,Metabolism, ,Mica, ,Milan, ,Mineralize, ,Minerals, ,mining, ,Natural Flare, ,Negativity, ,Neutralise, ,Nick Gavrelis, ,Peace Stone, ,Pure Magnificence, ,Sally Jane Thompson, ,Semi-Precious, ,Solabia International, ,Stamina, ,Stone of Courtesy, ,Warmth of Coral

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Amelia’s Magazine | Corrie Nielsen: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Corrie Nielsen A/W 2012 by Gaarte
Corrie Nielsen A/W 2012 by Gaarte.

London Fashion Week kicked off for me this year with a brilliant showing from Corrie Nielsen, who looked to the Scottish Highlands for inspiration in Vestiarium Scoticum. Named for an infamous book describing the provenance of Scottish tartans, this collection harks back to Corrie’s long lost heritage: her ancestor John S. Burns emigrated to America during the Revolutionary War and this collection is dedicated to both him and her grandmother Tollie.

Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen A/W 2012 by Gaarte
Corrie Nielsen A/W 2012 by Gaarte.

Vestiarium Scoticum opened with a bold red tartan dress, adorned with asymmetrical panels of black chiffon ruffles. Hair was tied back into a sleek low bun with ‘face lace’ fretwork painted across the side of the foreheads by Phyllis Cohen. Buns are big for A/W 2012, you heard it here first.

Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen by Angelica Moreno
Corrie Nielsen A/W 2012 by Angelica Moreno.

Beautifully tailored creamy blouses were buttoned high at the neck to offset supremely wearable tartan separates with a lady like feeling of propriety. In contrast a girly pleated tartan skirt was paired with a gauzy polka dot blouse, knee high post box red socks and flat shoes.

Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
I was particularly enamoured of the hair pieces by milliner Emma Yeo, which featured fine laser cut wood that echoed the long tapered pheasant feathers.

Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
This season the key focus was on a draped shawl shape that crumpled in waterfall-like waves across the torso, or swung jauntily across shoulders to culminate in finely structured peplums jutting from the waist, a favourite shape of Corrie Nielsen‘s.

Corrie Neilsen A/W 2012 by Sam Parr
Corrie Neilsen A/W 2012 by Sam Parr.

Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Nielsen AW 2012  photography by Amelia Gregory
Corrie Neilsen Check Skirt by Sam Parr
Corrie Neilsen A/W 2012 by Sam Parr.

The last two dresses featured the huge extravagant tumbles of fabric for which Corrie Nielsen has become famed, gloriously theatrical showstoppers with tiny waists and sweeping trains. Not for nothing has Corrie Nielsen become the heir apparent to the Westwood crown.

Corrie Nielson A/W 2012 by Carol Ryder
Corrie Nielson A/W 2012 by Carol Ryder.

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Angelica Moreno, ,BFC Showspace, ,Carol Ryder, ,Corrie Nielsen, ,Emma Yeo, ,Face Lace, ,Forward PR, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gazelli, ,John S Burns, ,lfw, ,millinery, ,Peplum, ,Phyllis Cohen, ,Revolutionary War, ,Ruffles, ,Sam Parr, ,scotland, ,Sheer, ,Tartan, ,Tollie Burns, ,Vestiarium Scoticum, ,Vivienne Westwood

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dans La Vie: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Jenny Robins
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Jenny Robins.

And so for London Fashion Week S/S 2013, which I am covering in a reduced capacity this season due to Snarfle demands: he will intermittently be joining me at the shows and no doubt vocalising his opinions. Our first show of Friday was Dans La Vie by Rira Sugawara at Fashion Scout, and I was pleased to find that Snarfle was perky and very interested in his first front row experience, particularly the flashing lights of the photographers at the end of the catwalk.

Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Jenny Robins
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Jenny Robins
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Jenny Robins.

For her Moving Print Bodies collection the Japanese designer used her signature plasticised printed fabrics to create a range of dramatic silhouettes in unusual colour combinations of mossy greens, pastel blues, mustard, blood red and teal. Gingham and python happily co-existed with gigantic bows and pictorial prints inspired by traditional Japanese gods. Waists were a big feature, cinched in with wide belts and exaggerated with tulip skirts and widened shoulders. The theme went somewhat haywire with the appearance of printed mesh catsuits that had panels across crotch and thighs in the style of Pam Hogg.

Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Fantastical make up was inspired by the patterns of the fabric…. blackened eyes topped with chequerboard foreheads or square blocks smeared across cheek and chins. For the finale Sugawara sent out my favourite look: a searing azure blue swing skirted dress with bodice frills spiked over the face in great fans like the frilled neck of a lizard.

Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Deborah Moon
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Deborah Moon.

Dans La Vie has a very strong signature look but this season if felt a bit as if Sugawara was trying to shoehorn in as many of the prevailing trends as possible. The result? Individual pieces worked well but the collection as a whole came across as a bit of a style mish mash. Still, Snarfle gave it the thumbs up, so who am I to judge? Watch the catwalk show here:

Categories ,Dans La Vie, ,Deborah Moon, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,London Fashion Week, ,Moving Print Bodies, ,Pam Hogg, ,Rira Sugawara, ,S/S 2013, ,Snarfle

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dot to Dot at V&A Museum of Childhood: Childrenswear Showroom Report, February 2014

Dot to Dot showroom for kids

Following my write up of the Bubble London kidswear trade show I was invited along to the inaugural Dot to Dot trade show and press day at the Museum of Childhood last weekend. I was promised some of the best independent childrenswear brands, so how could I say no? After a three hour stint at Spa London in York Hall (I’ve only got a few weeks left until my birthday and still needed to use up a much appreciated 40th birthday gift voucher from my NCT buddies) I bombed into the museum’s basement for a whirlwind tour before heading home for lunch. I hope I didn’t scare off too many brand owners with my extremely pink face and wild steam room hair.

Dot to Dot childrenswear trade show

The basement of the museum was the ideal venue for this venture, which is the brainchild of Carly Gledhill from Corby Tindersticks and Nicole Frobusch from Nixie Clothing, designed to showcase their favourite independent British children’s designers. The basement was compact yet airy and easy to negotiate and I particularly liked the small touches, such as some fabulous collaged artwork on the walls, courtesy of students from the Kids Company. There was a fantastic array of exciting independent brands on show, making my fleeting visit well worth the effort on a blustery winter’s weekend.

Corby Tindersticks cushion

I’ve written about Corby Tindersticks before, but this was a chance to become truly smitten by this burgeoning brand, which now includes square cushions (they make very cute shaped ones too) and clothing in its offering, much of which will appeal equally to adults and children. I unfortunately did not get a good photograph of their wall display, which was beautifully put together.

Badger print by Poco Nido

This super cute badger design is by Poco Nido from Sheffield, set up by footwear designer Catherine Lobley. Perhaps not unsurprisingly her speciality is very cute printed baby slippers. I also love the fact that she runs a competition to see who can make the best object out of a Poco Nido packaging tube. Yay to crafty recycling!

Indikidual clothing

Indikidual crayola print

I adore the deliciously bright colour palette from Indikidual, a brand which I have heard many good things about in recent times. The collection, designed by Syreeta Johnson, is unisex and designed to be worn in layers. I am looking forward to dressing Snarfle in some of these pieces in the years to come. Doesn’t this crayon print rock?

Aravore dress for girls

I am super impressed by the many roles of Aravore designer Yanina Aubrey, who has used a beautiful end of roll luxury womenswear fabric (above) in her pretty new collection. During London Fashion Week she will be curating the Paraguayan international showcase. Impressive stuff, I will have to try and visit.

Little_Titans_lookbook-tights for boys

Little Titans cushion

The fabulous illustrative branding for boys’ tights brand Little Titans by Carly Hardy appears on the cushion above and on all packaging, combined with some wonderful typography and photography. I adore the quirky central character, which really sums up a typical cheeky little boy. As a massive tights fan (for Snarfle, I should clarify, I’m more of a leggings woman these days) I have obviously become aware of Little Titans, which specialises in abstract designs: think bold colourings, stripes and lightening bolts. I think they are fab and am sure that Snarfle will wear these in the future, although for now he is exclusively dressed in the wonderful patterned offerings from Slugs and Snails.

Becky Baur

There were other designers that I did not get a chance to look at because I was in such a rush, but for now I’ll end with the eye-catching range by Hackney based designer Becky Baur (who I clearly missed on my earlier Top Drawer excursion). She also had the most wonderful wall display (again, didn’t manage to get a good photo, my bad). With designs that would be equally loved by kids and adults, her brand, launched in 2011, includes homeware, stationery and ceramics. Very very cool.

Many of the designers at the Dot to Dot press day have impeccable environmental credentials, using organic cotton and manufacturing or making up their products within the UK where possible. Having just learnt that organic cotton uses half the water of normal cotton and avoids all the health problems associated with pesticides (from Zandra Rhodes! in her penthouse flat! but more on that later…) I think it’s great that so many childrenswear designers are doing their best to implement ethical practices, and I am really enjoying the process of getting to know this aspect of the fashion industry, now that I’ve got a little one of my own.

Categories ,Aravore, ,Becky Baur, ,Bubble London, ,Carly Gledhill, ,Carly Hardy, ,Catherine Lobley, ,Corby Tindersticks, ,Dot to Dot, ,ethical, ,Indikidual, ,Kids Company, ,Little Titans, ,London Fashion Week, ,Museum of Childhood, ,NCT, ,Nicole Frobusch, ,Nixie Clothing, ,Organic Cotton, ,Poco Nido, ,Slugs and Snails, ,Snarfle, ,Spa London, ,Syreeta Johnson, ,Top Drawer, ,va, ,Yanina Aubrey, ,York Hall, ,Zandra Rhodes

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