Fashion Scout – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

vita gottlieb - llfw - ss15 - jenny robins
Vita Gottlieb by Jenny Robins.

She may only have been creating collections for a few seasons, but Vita Gottlieb has already honed her look to great effect. For her S/S 2015 collection Microworld Vita found inspiration at the bottom of the sea; in the peachy hues of coral reefs and the creature filled waters of the far deep. A sensation of floating was achieved by the use of gossamer light asymmetric panels of georgette, juxtaposed against graphical black blocks on slouchy tees and swing skirts. Signature prints were created from the swirling botanical illustrations of Ernst Haeckel and worked well with stripes of contrast bias binding and delicate layered waist ties. Lacey laser cut gloves, smokey eyes, high hair and spike heeled metallic sandals gave a glamorous edge to everyday pieces, as Vita Gottlieb once more successfully married the avante grade with the wearable.

Scroll to the bottom to watch the video of the show.

Vita Gottlieb by Karolina Burdon.

Vita Gottlieb SS15 by Isabelle Mattern.

Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Vita Gottlieb SS15 show video from Vita Gottlieb on Vimeo.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday October 10th, 2014 4:11 pm

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Ernst Haeckel, ,Fashion Scout, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,Jenny Robins, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Microworld, ,S/S 2015, ,SS15, ,Vita Gottlieb

Amelia’s Magazine | Xiao Li, Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Xiao Li A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Xiao Li A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

We covered Xiao Li when she took part in the graduate showcase at Fashion Scout last season, and this year she returned to the catwalk with a stunning new collection as a winner of the much coveted Fashion Scout Merit Award. Chinese born Xiao Li is yet another example of the great education we provide in the arts, gaining an BA in womenswear from LCF and then an MA in knitwear from the RCA. She sent her clothing down the catwalk to one of my current favourite tunes: a cover of Daft Punk’s Get Lucky by Daughter. It was the perfect accompaniment to her collection, sweet as sugar but totally fresh and modern.

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Girls wore a simple pink wash in their hair, minimal make up and clumpy platform sandals to accompany billowy mesh, latex and silicon separates covered in geometric 3D decorative details. There were gigantic puffy sleeves, feature pockets, frou frou pencil skirts, wide legged trousers, a cape and even a pair of dungarees.

Xiao Li by Amy Dover

Xiao Li by Amy Dover.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston.

Xiao Li’s strength is in her deft combination of unexpected material, technique and shape to create an extraordinary and often breathtaking silhouette. The predominantly baby blue and cream palette was offset by the use of intense royal blue, with the last outfit spectacularly fading into dark so that the integral LED lights glowed in an otherworldly manner.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday February 27th, 2014 4:17 pm

Categories ,Amy Dover, ,Daft Punk, ,Daughter, ,Fashion Scout, ,Get Lucky, ,iceland, ,Katie Rose Johnston, ,LCF, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Merit Award, ,rca, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Xiao Li

Amelia’s Magazine | Yeashin: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

South Korean designer Yeashin Kim‘s Woodland collection juxtaposed traditional Korean dress with inspiration from the swinging 60s. The colourful results built on the look she has been honing since completing her studies in fine arts and then attending the London College of Fashion.

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Victoria Wright.

A multitude of textures were thrown together and somehow emerged victorious. Oversized embellished hats, plenty of colourful trims and digitally printed woodgrain based on Korean furniture lent the collection a fairytale feel, with bespoke woolly boots adorned with pompoms adding to the idea that the models could have stepped off the pages of a children’s book (no bad thing in my world).

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Yeashin-by-Sylwia-Szyszka
Yeashin A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Skirts were predominantly short and flared, collars adorned with on trend details, cuffs beautifully buttoned or trimmed in wool. Knitwear came in the form of a dotty cape, bolero and cosy looking chequerboard coat. Yeashin‘s was a delightfully unique collection in this time of monochrome madness, and all the better for it.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/59188092" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/59188092</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 26th, 2013 12:53 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,knitwear, ,Laura Hickman, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,South Korean, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Victoria Wright, ,woodland, ,Yeashin, ,Yeashin Kim

Amelia’s Magazine | Yeashin: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Yeashin S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs.

Last season Yeashin‘s Woodland collection trod a narrow line between dressing up and playing dress up (kid style) so I was intrigued to see how this Korean label would progress with a stand alone show.

Yeashin S:S 2014 by Lynne Datson
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson.

Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yeashin S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Yeashin S:S 2014 by Gaarte
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

The extravagant layering of texture and colour that worked so well in the winter collection were translated with less success into a more summery vibe: plenty of frills, pearls and embroidery splashed across loose little girl bib dresses and used to vamp up cute girly blouses (the best garments in this show), all worn by models with long shimmery limbs. Pleats, bobbly spots and scattered leaves were echoes of last season too, this time accessorised with pie crust paper hats and simple nude coloured heels.

Yeashin S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

This was a resolutely whimsical collection that erred a little too much towards the saccharine for my taste. I look forward to seeing how Yeashin develops as the seasons go forward.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/74455682" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/74455682</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday September 16th, 2013 10:12 pm

Categories ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Lynne Datson, ,S/S 2014, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Summer Afternoon Party, ,woodland, ,Yeashin

Amelia’s Magazine | Yifang Wan, Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

Fashion Week A/W 2013 got off to a cracking start on Friday, for anybody who actually turned up. I didn’t, thanks to the effects of an anti-Valentine’s cocktail binge, instead spent the evening in bed with fish and chips and half a bottle of Rioja. So it was Saturday morning where my season started, heading as I did to this season’s Fashion Scout Merit Award winner – Yifang Wan.

Photography by Amelia Gregory

Previous Merit Award winners including David Koma, Felder Felder, William Tempest and Leutton Postle have all gone on to establish successful labels and the pressure of such previous acclaim must be terrifying — but its effects weren’t evident in this polished collection by Yifang Wan.

Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

All other photography by Matt Bramford

Record numbers packed the ‘white room’ of the Freemasons’ Hall, and so my view of the show was framed by a diminutive Frenchman wielding a vogue.fr microphone like a maniac and a very excitable girl with masses of hair. Her head was all over the place trying to secure a good shot and I was forced to perform a strange sort of swaying dance with my zoom lens, not unlike an Emperor penguin.

Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

I’d briefly taken an interest in Wan‘s work when the Merit prize was awarded at the beginning of the year, and her previous collections draw inspiration from her Asian heritage and long, draped silhouettes dominate her previous outings. So it was no surprise, in the best possible way, to see these themes continued for A/W 2013, with inspiration from performance artist ‪Marina Abramović‬, most famous for sitting in a smock and staring at New Yorkers in the MOMA for 700 hours.

Only four rich colours featured in this collection – deep blue, green, red and black in thick fabrics. Jackets came with triangular slices removed almost with abandon as fabrics draped asymmetrically and architecturally. Almost every piece skimmed the floor, while fabric swayed and draped in different directions with emphasis on Far Eastern cuts. Each piece was accessorised with intriguing angular sculptural pieces, some worn around necks, others carried almost like weaponry.

Yifang Wan is no stranger to awards, having won the L’Oreal Professionel Award at Saint Martins as an MA student. Her £25,000 prize this season will hopefully propel the designer’s label in the direction it deserves.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday February 19th, 2013 1:31 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,A/W’13, ,catwalk, ,Central Saint Martins, ,East, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Kimono, ,marina abramovic, ,Matt Bramford, ,Merit Award, ,Orient, ,review, ,Yifang Wan

Amelia’s Magazine | Yifang Wan: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Yifang Wang A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Yifang Wan A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Yifang Wan showcased a sleek collection accessorised with dagger sharp neckwear as a Fashion Scout Merit Award winner this time last year, so it was great to catch up with her again. Against a backdrop of glitchy beats she sent models down the catwalk in a range of seductive wintery hues – lilac, glittery navy blue, deep plum and grey, paired with bare legs and the simplest of black heels.

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Wan’s talent lies in the creation of super desirable clothing which nevertheless bears a unique twist – this season boxy jackets, simple flip skirts and elegant tapered trousers in wool and mohair were variously cut with patch pockets, pleats, wide collars and dangling lengths of fabric.

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Asymmetric shapes, apron layers and a detachable collar feature gave yet another element of interest to this wonderful collection. Yifang Wan calls this ‘simplistic workwear’ and indeed it is – the perfect way to dress for modern working life at the desk and dashing between meetings. I think she will soon amass countless fawning fans, eager to adopt the Yifang Wan way of dressing for work.

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday February 26th, 2014 10:03 am

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Fashion Scout, ,lfw, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Merit Award Winner, ,review, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Yifang Wan

Amelia’s Magazine | Yulia Kondranina: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by youdesignme.

Russian designer and Central Saint Martins graduate Yulia Kondranina was last to show at Ones to Watch, with a small collection of immaculate construction: models stepped out on the catwalk in heavily tasselled dresses, the threads swaying gracefully around legs and arms as they walked. Black threads on black created an elegant gothic feel, whilst white on black was a very on trend nod to the monochrome colour palette which has been omnipresent this season.

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

My favourites were undoubtably the three colourful dresses with which Yulia Kondranina ended her show, jewel coloured and swinging flatteringly around hips over the top of tube skirts. I was able to check out the dresses up close at the Fashion Scout exhibition, where I discovered that the delicate threads were given substance with clever internal hoops. I’m not sure how easy they would be to wear, but the collection was beautifully conceived.

ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 26th, 2013 3:56 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Laura Hickman, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,Russian, ,youdesignme

Amelia’s Magazine | Sabina Bryntesson: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Sabina Bryntesson S/S 2013 by Elsabe Milandri.

Building on the extravagant tall hoods of last season Sabina Bryntesson‘s models wore peaked black hats: part witch’s hat, part baseball cap. Wide football player puff shoulders might have called to mind 80s power dressing but Sabina ensured a mood all her own with a muted ascetic colour way: shades of caramel and cream, offset against a slash of cobalt blue and lemon yellow. The strong lights of the upper rooms at Freemasons’ Hall perfectly suited the dramatic Monkish silhouette of this hotly anticipated first catwalk collection, which also bore elements of Amish style; A line skirts swinging low at the front in wide swinging folds. The girls were immaculately presented, with low thick ponytails and classic high heels lending a foxier air to the look. Just a peek of high white collars appeared under some of the heavier garments: you’d need a cool summer to enjoy these outfits.

Sabrina Bryntesson SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Sabina Bryntesson S/S 2013 by Elsabe Milandri.

This was a really interesting collection from a unique new talent but there was one major problem – big boxy styles like these look awesome on the incredibly thin, but on anyone larger they are far from flattering. Nevertheless I can’t wait to see how Sabina Bryntesson‘s vision grows.

Sabrina Bryntesson SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Sabrina Bryntesson S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Sunday October 7th, 2012 1:47 pm

Categories ,80s, ,Amish, ,Elsabe Milandri, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,S/S 2013

Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Kartal: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Zeynep Kartal by Sine Skau.

Turkish born Zeynep Kartal is one of the new influx of foreign born designers who are bringing a little red carpet glamour to the Fashion Scout catwalks. Her SS15 catwalk show opened with zingy lemon yellow floor sweeping gowns – backless, strapless, sheer, asymmetric glamour offset with barely there make up and simple locks worn cascading down the back. Zeynep Kartal’s Efflorescence collection featured plenty of floaty dresses covered in subtle rose pink and white florals inspired by the classic novel The Secret Garden, and for those preferring a darker palette there were boxy dove grey satin tops embellished with beaded starbursts and pleated georgette dresses with plunging necklines and cinched-in waists. A glorious rose encrusted A-line dress made for a playful finale from the Manchester based designer.

Scroll down to watch a video of the collection.

Zeynep Kartal Spring Summer 2015, Illustration by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard for Amelia's Magazine
Zeynep Kartal SS15 by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax of Illustrated Moodboard.

Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday October 11th, 2014 6:10 pm

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Efflorescence, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Scout, ,floral, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Glamour, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,London Fashion Week, ,manchester, ,Red carpet, ,Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, ,S/S 2015, ,Sine Skau, ,SS15, ,The Secret Garden, ,Turkish, ,Zeynep Kartal

Amelia’s Magazine | Spijkers en Spijkers: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Spjikers en Spijkers SS 2013 by Faye West
Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2013 by Faye West.

Spijkers en Spijkers named their S/S 2013 collection La Femme Paysage (meaning Female Landscape) in homage to 20s artist Sonia Delaunay, a member of the Orphist art movement known for her curvy geometric paintings and fabric designs in bold colourways. Orphism seems to be very in this season, I note.

Spjikers en Spjikers SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2013 by Lo Parkin.

The twin sisters Spijkers en Spijkers have become well known for their confident use of colour and shape, so this new source of inspiration suited them perfectly. Out stepped a series of beautifully cut silk dresses in Delaunay shades of red, jade green, yellow, orange, lilac and cornflower blue – variously teamed with crisp monochrome. For the most part necklines were high, though the back became a highlight in a dress featuring perfectly arranged Art Deco lines. Sheer patterned lace was used to create a show-stopping little black dress, and to more commercial effect in panelling when teamed with jewel coloured silk separates.

Spjikers en Spjikers SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory

Spjikers en Spijkers SS 2013 by Faye West
Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2013 by Faye West.

A more painterly approach was taken for a loose shift dress that bore the portrait of the infamous Marchesa Luisa Casati, an eccentric noble woman revered in high society for her commitment to style.

Spjikers en Spjikers SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I particularly loved the hair for this show: loose low slung plaits and wispy headbands which suitably updated the louche historical feel, perfectly teamed with delicate necklaces and strappy heels (a nice change from the crazy platforms that are still dominating the catwalks). This collection was chock full of brilliantly desirable dresses that perfectly embodied the brand’s design ethos.

Spjikers en Spjikers SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Oh, and there’s Snarfle on the row behind me craning his head to see the show…

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/49511307" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/49511307</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday September 26th, 2012 5:43 pm

Categories ,20s, ,Art Deco, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,La Femme Paysage, ,lfw, ,Lo Parkin, ,Marchesa Luisa Casati, ,Orphism, ,Orphist, ,S/S 2013, ,Snarfle, ,Sonia Delaunay, ,Spijkers en Spijkers

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