xplusyequals – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Simon Ekrelius introduces Monochrome, his new A/W 2014 collection

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Last week Simon Ekrelius showcased a preview selection of garments from his pared down A/W 2014 collection, titled Monochrome. Inspired by iconic model Lee Miller, this season the Swedish designer has focused on a sleek and eminently wearable silhouette, which features innovative fabric treatments and his razor sharp signature tailoring.

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Megan Thomas

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Megan Thomas.

When did you first discover the muse for your latest collection, Lee Miller?
Many years ago when I read into Man Ray‘s life and realised that Lee was very involved with his work and the solarisation technique.

simon ekrelius 1

simon ekrelius 2

How did this translate into elements of the Monochrome collection?
Indirectly I wanted to translate the feeling I had for her relationship with photography, perhaps a longshot for some but my idea was to describe her in the time now if she would be alive. So I cut lines all over the body, which were then sprayed and painted. Many of the constructions retain a certain mood, as does the palette and the structure of the fabrics. She created something very subdued through photography; very beautiful and simple. She was stuck in my mind for a long period and now was the right time to bring it all up.

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Sangita Kumari

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Sangita Kumari.

What are the key materials and processes used in these garments?
There is wool, cotton, silk, poly blends and nylon. The crème coloured cotton canvas and the black cotton satin has been painted and then sprayed with acrylic.

simon ekrelius 3

simon ekrelius 4

What are your favourite pieces in the collection?
The wool coat with pleats, the spray painted pieces, the black silk organza blouse and dress, the grey pieces, the black shiny and matt jersey dress and the jumpsuit with lighter vertical lines.

simon ekrelius 5

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

Who do you hope will wear these garments and why?
Kate Moss, Tilda Swinton, Lily Cole, and Cate Blanchett: because I know they would carry my pieces perfectly.

You can read our previous interview with Simon Ekrelius here.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 11th, 2014 12:55 pm

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Cate Blanchett, ,Kate Moss, ,Lee Miller, ,Lily Cole, ,Man Ray, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Megan Thomas, ,monochrome, ,Sangita Kumari, ,Simon Ekrelius, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Tilda Swinton, ,xplusyequals

Amelia’s Magazine | Sorapol presents IMMORTAL: a fashion film for the A/W 2013 ready-to-wear collection

Sorapol IMMORTAL by xplusyequals

Sorapol IMMORTAL by xplusyequals.

Extravagant Bangkok born fashion designer Sorapol Chawaphatnakul and his equally extravagant creative director – the irrepressible Daniel Lismore – have together created a fantastical short fashion film to accompany the inaugural Sorapol ready-to-wear collection. Take a peek below, and read on to find out more.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/83300821" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/83300821</a>

What was the inspiration behind the new collection?
This will be the first SORAPOL ready to wear collection. Each collection is usually inspired by one or two elements of history and culture merged together with aesthetics. The new collection is inspired by the common ground between mysticism, surrealism and the animal kingdom. The Fabrics used include, silks, wools and leathers, with much of the collection using natural fibres.

Sorapol Immortal by Leah Nelson

Sorapol Immortal by Leah Nelson.

Which materials feature most heavily in your creations?
Sorapol has worked with a number of extravagant fabrics, from silks to lavish prints, to produce a collection embodying decadence and Oriental contemporaries. Every season we use new materials and try to create new techniques in embroidery and knit. Sorapol like to experiment with new ideas born from couture skills. Our garments have been designed for the modern woman who appreciates timeless designs. The collection includes coats, tailored jackets and evening gowns.

Sorapol by Kimberly Elle#21

Sorapol by Kimberly Ellen Hall.

What was the idea behind the creation of the video?
The Immortal video was based on a tale from 1001 nights. There was once a king who discovered that his wife had been disloyal. He had her executed and then proceeded to marry every fair lady in his kingdom. He protected himself from the treachery of women by putting each wife to death the morning after their wedding. After his marriage to his 1001st wife had been consummated, they lay back on the royal bed. To pass the hours she began telling the king wondrous stories of love and destiny, cutting short each tale just before dawn so that the king would let her live another night to hear the end of the story. After their final night together she escapes with her new lover. The woman portrays our client, who is both strong in character & fearless in style. Sorapol designs are beautiful pieces of armour, fit for the trials and tribulations that life throws at us. A woman who wears Sorapol feels confident about herself in any situation.

Sorapol By Briony Jose

Sorapol by Briony Jose.

How long did it take to make the video and what were the biggest challenges?
The biggest challenge in making this video was to make a high production film in a short amount of time and on a tight budget, with just one day of shooting which was done at Castle Gibbson in Dalston. It took a while to get the music and sound recordings right, requiring a day in a studio with four singers. The rest was easy. Stephen took two recordings which he sent to us.

Soropol IMMORTAL by xplusyequals

Soropol IMMORTAL by xplusyequals.

Where are the words from?
The words were written by one of the best wordsmiths we know, Sigmund Oakeshott. We called him one night and asked him to write a piece of art for us. The next day we got it back and it was perfect.

Sorapol illustration by Mitika 28.1.14

Sorapol illustration by Mitika Chohan.

How did you get so many big names involved?
Aiden Shaw, our muse Wei Chiung Lin & BB Kaye are all great believers in making art, the progression of fashion and are all supporters of the brand. They loved the ideas that the head designer, Sorapol and myself as creative director, Daniel Lismore, put to them. Daniel sent the unfinished film to Stephen Fry to ask his opinion. He loved it and kindly agreed to do the narration.

Sorapol by Ste Johnson

Sorapol by Ste Johnson.

What do you hope for in the coming year?
This year we have had the choice of starting to create a ready to wear collection. Showing at The Serpentine Gallery will be the changing point for us as it will be our first show during the time period of London Fashion Week. We plan to launch an accessible diffusion line later on in the year for our large fan base.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday January 30th, 2014 3:21 pm

Categories ,1001 Nights, ,Aiden Shaw, ,BB Kaye, ,Briony Jose, ,Castle Gibbson, ,dalston, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Fashion Film, ,IMMORTAL, ,Kimberly Ellen Hall, ,Leah Nelson, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mitika Chohan, ,Serpentine Gallery, ,Sigmund Oakeshott, ,Sorapol, ,Sorapol Chawaphatnakul, ,Ste Johnson, ,Stephen Fry, ,Wei Chiung Lin, ,xplusyequals

Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014: London Fashion Week Preview

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequalshttp://www.xplusyequals.co.uk.

Since taking part in Fashion Fringe as a finalist in 2013, new designer Vita Gottlieb has been busy refining her unique vision, taking multiple influences from across the world and melding them into incredible constructions and beautifully tailored dresses. Her love for the environment is carried through into every aspect of her business; working with ethical suppliers, keeping wastage to a minimum and giving 10% of profits to charities. Here’s a sneak (illustrated) preview of the new A/W 2014 collection.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 mood board

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 mood board long

Three things that I notice looking at your mood boards for the new collection: caging, owl, snail shell – how do these things and ideas impact the new collection?
Actually the owl and shell (it’s a mollusk) are there just as general mood images – I often have images piled up and all over the walls, just to aid the dreaming! But in a more focused mindset it’s just the collection images. For AW14 I was looking at cages, birds, palaces in India, in particular an old ruined Maharaja’s palace I visited in my gap year- and the idea of Grace Jones roaming through the palace with birds flying in and out of the ruins. I’m always taken with the juxtaposing strength against something more delicate or falling apart. There’s always a bit of an imaginary landscape in my concepts but also I imagine a character in a film and draw inspiration from what I perceive they will do and feel.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 colour sketches

Vita-Gottlieb-AW-14-sketches

Sketches by Vita Gottlieb.

You’re showing at Fashion Scout for the first time, how did this come about and what are you most nervous about?
I applied and got in! It’s so great to get to show with Fashion Scout as they support really innovative designers who go onto do big things in the industry, so it’s very exciting. At the moment the studio is quite relaxed as the collection is done, but we’re planning all the practical tasks before the show – casting, music, accessories, etc, plus organising sales documentation and planning some trade shows, also finalising production and deliveries for SS14 – the business side of things are always more nerve-wracking. I’m a bit nervous of the show though, that’s natural – mainly as it’s the first time as a designer that you see the whole collection worn together, and it’s a bit of a reveal – I just hope it’s coherent.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Calamus Chan

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Calamus Chan.

What can we expect from your upcoming catwalk show?
Hopefully a bit of youthful energy and a strong dynamic.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Leah Nelson

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Leah Nelson.

How have you achieved the technical details of the Caged collection? It sounds very complex!
Some pieces were very complex and technical but quite a lot of the collection is more commercial – I’m really aiming with this collection to break into new markets and territories and for it to do well on the sales side of things. But the fun stuff is always making the press pieces for editorial, you can really get creative and treat the materials in a more purely sculptural, instinctive way – I love that process, it’s one of my favourite parts in a collection’s development.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons.

It seems only yesterday that you made the decision to enter the world of fashion and already you are onto your fourth collection… what have you learnt along the way?
So much, mainly about running a business. I ran a production company before and a gallery but both on a really small scale – this industry has taught me a huge amount about management – of people, time, juggling the various departments in the business. And about how to edit, to focus, and remain in the moment with whatever task you’re doing. It’s a huge, huge workload, but I’m learning to compartmentalize more and really hone in on something until it’s done as well as it can be. And I’ve learnt I really need space and time for myself, which is a rarity in this business! So something I’m working on achieving from next season on.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday February 14th, 2014 8:37 am

Categories ,AW14, ,Caged, ,Calamus Chan, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grace Jones, ,Leah Nelson, ,xplusyequals

Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

We ran a preview of Vita Gottlieb’s fourth collection, so I had an inkling of what to expect from the Fashion Fringe finalist before she took to the Fashion Scout catwalk for the first time for a stunning rendition of what she does best: combining sumptuous textiles with an intriguing silhouette.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb by Kit Wagstaff

Vita Gottlieb by Kit Wagstaff.

Vita Gottlieb names this collection Caged, after an imaginary film featuring Grace Jones in a Majaraja’s palace. The idea of birds in flight at sunset (this would obviously be a beautiful cinematic experience) influenced the romantic warmth of the fiery colour palette, with prints and textiles rich in multi-coloured spice hues. A more literal interpretation came in the form of birds floating across a pretty landscape print.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

The caged theme appeared in a skirt and jacket made up entirely of strips, and appeared in more commercial form as glossy black bindings, highlighting womanly curves. Alongside skin tight separates there were also boxy jackets and eye-catching layered maxi skirts. Furled scarfs gave detail to the neck, buckled arm cuffs added edge and sheer and textured black fabrics were rendered especially stunning with the addition of multi coloured appliqué details. The show closed with a magnificent yellow dress, split to the upper thigh and resplendent with a dramatic zig-zag design.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-end

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday March 3rd, 2014 5:17 pm

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Caged, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grace Jones, ,Kit Wagstaff, ,Majaraja, ,review, ,Vita Gottlieb, ,xplusyequals

Amelia’s Magazine | Pam Hogg: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

We waited for almost an hour outside Freemasons’ Hall due to the usual buzz which surrounded the Pam Hogg S/S 2014 catwalk show at Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week. The rain came and went a few times – the opening and closing umbrellas not quite sheltering the fashionable kids queuing – but as ever it was worth the wait! Once inside, I squeezed tightly in between a lot of other keen bloggers at the photographers’ end and we all laughed and joked, merrily cooperating with each other in working out our collective positioning for optimum shots. Those in the front rows near us also seemed to be in great spirits, a few of them refreshingly slouching in their chairs and sporting messed up hair, torn jeans and casual wear.

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

The show titled ‘Future Past: War & Peace: Past Future’ was presented in different sections, sometimes with gaps so long between them we thought it was over at least twice before the actual end. First came World War II nurses gradually merging into latex clad ones and then transforming into beauties wearing the trademark Pam Hogg geometrical catsuits with wonderful bird themed and floral headpieces added on top. I absolutely adored the theatrical interlude ballet performance of a Little-Bo-Peep-esque ballerina who was full of the joy of life, immediately followed by a trembling, slowly walking black bride holding a crutch. In this show full of contradictions between life and death I found it entertaining that the final characters should be scantily dressed ladies in folded tulle. What a delightful experience!

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Antonia Parker

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014. All photography by Maria Papadimitriou.

Written by Maria Papadimitriou on Wednesday October 2nd, 2013 10:02 am

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,ballet, ,Catsuits, ,Death, ,Dom & Ink, ,Fashion Scout, ,florals, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Future Past: War & Peace: Past Future, ,headpieces, ,Latex, ,Lizzie Donegan, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lynne Datson, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,New Good Studio, ,Nurses, ,Pam Hogg, ,S/S 2014, ,Theatrical, ,World War II, ,xplusyequals, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

Amelia’s Magazine | Lulu Liu: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Lulu Liu S/S 2014 by xplusyequals.

It’s well known that fashion shows rarely start on time, and as a result I like to cut it fine. The trouble is, sometimes that ploy misfires, and instead of racing in with only moments left for the show to begin, I, erm, get there after it has begun. And so it was with Lulu Liu, whose show was the last that I attended this London Fashion Week. There I was, lazily finishing up my lunch in itsu (the fashionista’s choice when attending shows at Fashion Scout in Freemasons’ Hall) and keeping an eye on the PR, who was still stood outside the main entrance. Well blow me down, we sauntered over to find it had only gone and started practically on the dot of 2.30pm, and I felt pretty damn silly the moment I spied the clothing, for this was a lovely collection and I was stuck behind several yards of heads and cameras held aloft. So, I bring you my spy hole view: I think you’ll agree that after several seasons off to have a baby (yay, he even took a turn on the catwalk, but alas I did not catch it) this fashion designer has come back with a corker in her S/S 2014 collection Yarrow Wanda. Think fuchsia pink, chequerboard, ribbon weaves, mega frills and leaves in the hair. Yes, it was just beautiful, and I wish I’d had a better view.

Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Lulu Liu S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/74458460" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/74458460</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday September 21st, 2013 10:13 am

Categories ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lulu Liu, ,pink, ,review, ,S/S 2014, ,xplusyequals, ,Yarrow Wanda

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2014: Fashion Illustrations from the Catwalk

Burberry A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons

Burberry A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons.

Since I was unable to attend many of my favourite designer’s shows this season, and indeed had no help in covering the shows (apart from this post, written by the fabulous Maria Papadimitriou) I thought it would be a nice idea to do an open callout for illustrators to depict their favourite outfit from any of the London Fashion Week shows. Here are the results, in no particular order: I am sure you will agree that they are fabulous. Long live fashion illustration!

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2014 by Antonia Parker

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2014 by Antonia Parker.

Erdem A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Erdem A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

Ashish A/W 2014 by Rebecca May Illustration

Ashish A/W 2014 by Rebecca May Illustration.

Eudon Choi A/W 2014 by Mark Goss

Eudon Choi A/W 2014 by Mark Goss.

KTZ A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

KTZ A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

Emilio de la Morena A/W 2014 by Carol Kearns

Emilio de la Morena A/W 2014 by Carol Kearns.

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2014 by Maelle Rajoelisolo

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2014 by Maelle Rajoelisolo.

Daks A/W 2014 by Jenny Robins

Daks A/W 2014 by Jenny Robins.

Sibling A/W 2014 by Calamusyychan

Sibling A/W 2014 by Calamus Ying Ying Chan.

House Of Holland A/W 2014 by Antonia Parker

House Of Holland A/W 2014 by Antonia Parker.

Erdem A/W 2014 by Jane Young

Erdem A/W 2014 by Jane Young.

Burberry A/W 2014 by Mitika Suri

Burberry A/W 2014 by Mitika Suri.

Vivetta A/W 2014 by Briony Jose

Vivetta A/W 2014 by Briony Jose.

Tata Naka A/W 2014 by Isher Dhiman

Tata Naka A/W 2014 by Isher Dhiman.

David Koma A/W 2014 by Gaarte

David Koma A/W 2014 by Gaarte.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday February 28th, 2014 11:26 am

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Ashish, ,Briony Jose, ,Burberry, ,Calamus Ying Ying Chan, ,Carol Kearns, ,daks, ,Emilio de la Morena, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Erdem, ,Eudon Choi, ,Gaarte, ,House of Holland, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Jane Young, ,Jenny Robins, ,KTZ, ,Maelle Rajoelisolo, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Mark Goss, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Michael van der Ham, ,Mitika Suri, ,Rebecca May Illustration, ,Sibling, ,Tata Naka, ,xplusyequals

Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

KTZ S/S 2014 by Rose Crees

KTZ S/S 2014 by Rose Crees

Since illustrating KTZ‘s striking A/W 2011 collection for Amelia’s Magazine, I have wished there would come a chance to attend a KTZ catwalk show in person. Koji Maruyama and Marjan Pejowski’s S/S 2014 womenswear collection impressed me both visually and intellectually – welcoming the sweeping winds of change whilst looking back at older, wiser traditions – but unfortunately the new structure of the main catwalk space at Somerset House, plus super tight security measures to control the larger audiences it can hold meant that I found myself impossibly struggling for a good spot to capture properly on camera this much anticipated moment. So what better chance for a lavishly illustrated London Fashion Week review!

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

Carrying on from their S/S 2014 menswear collection’s Arabic influences and extensive use of symbols, KTZ focused again for their S/S 2014 womenswear collection on themes related to spirituality, religious attire and nomadic cultures, highlighting the impact on today’s society by migrating populations. Against the backdrop of an upbeat atmosphere and a soundtrack which included howling winds, fire crackling sounds, wild animal growling and western re-mixes of eastern tunes, we saw burqa-style dresses, billowing capes, floral prints reminiscent of Islamic mosaics and graphic monochrome patterns made up from shapes of stars and pentagons. Black bomber jackets covered in silver hardwear, spiked wrist cuffs and hats as well as bold silver jewellery further added to the general feel of determination and optimism I thought this collection exuded.

KTZ S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

KTZ S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

KTZ S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

KTZ S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

KTZ S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

KTZ S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

KTZ S/S 2014 by Gareth A Hopkins

KTZ S/S 2014 by Gareth A Hopkins

KTZ S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

KTZ S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

KTZ S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

KTZ S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

KTZ S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

KTZ S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

KTZ S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs

KTZ S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs

Written by Maria Papadimitriou on Monday September 30th, 2013 9:25 am

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Arabic, ,BFC Tent, ,british fashion council, ,Burqa, ,Claire Kearns, ,deserts, ,Dom & Ink, ,Floral prints, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Karolina Burdon, ,KTZ, ,Lizzie Donegan, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lynne Datson, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,monochrome, ,New Good Studio, ,prints, ,Religious, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Scott W Mason, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Spikes, ,Womenswear, ,xplusyequals

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Scout Graduate Showcase 2013: New Talent at London Fashion Week S/S 2014

Xiao Lin SS 2014 1 by xplusyequals
Xiao Li S/S 2014 by xplusyequals.

A rainy Sunday London Fashion Week afternoon was spent uncovering a treasure trove of new talent at the Fashion Scout Graduate Presentation at Freemason’s Hall. Here is an insight into what the finest fashion graduates in the UK are producing during the early stages of their career.

LFW Sept 2013-Angus Chiang
Neon floral spacesuit by Angus Chiang.

LFW Sept 2013-Maiko Takeda blue

Maiko Takeda by Saara Karppinen.

The selection varied immensely, from a bold giant floral spacemen by Angus Chiang from the Shih-Chien University in Taiwan, to the architectural spiked perspex head pieces by Royal College of Art graduate Maiko Takeda.

LFW Sept 2013-Xiao Li

Xiao Li MA Show Fashion Illustration by Rose Petal Deer (Emily Katherine Reader)
Xiao Li by Rose Petal Deer (Emily Katherine Reader).

But it was the knitwear that really stood out to me, with two graduates in particular pushing this traditional craft into modern new realms. Plump pastel knitwear by Royal College of Art graduate Xiao Li had a wonderfully voluminous shape, combining innovative materials and head turning proportions to make a real impact. Who says wrapping up has to be just about comfort?

Xiao Lin
Xiao Li, photography by Kerry Flint.

Jaimee McKenna, photography by Kerry Flint.

LFW Sept 2013-Jaimee Mckenna

Jaimee Mckenna by Esther Hong.

Central Saint Martins graduate Jaimee Mckenna had also produced a striking collection of cobalt blue knit dresses that stood out in the dimly lit hall. Closer inspection revealed intricate pleating and multiple layers of knitted lambswool that had been expertly crafted by Jaimee Mckenna to form strong rigid structures that still had movement.

LFW Sept 2013-Lauren Smith Edinburgh

Close up detail of dress by Lauren Smith from Edinburgh College of Art.

LFW Sept 2013-Carrie Ann Stein CSM

Intricate textured fabrics by Carrie Ann Stein from Central Saint Martins.

LFW Sept 2013-Min Wu LCF
Dress by Min Wu from the London College of Fashion.

LFW Sept 2013-Sadie Williams
Amazing red metallic A-line maxi dress by Sadie Williams of Central Saint Martins.

This well curated showcase of work by the best UK fashion graduates was an arousing insight into the rapidly changing future of the fashion industry, and for now, it seems, the future is in knit.

All photography by Amelia Gregory unless otherwise stated.

Written by Kerry Flint on Thursday October 10th, 2013 1:00 am

Categories ,Angus Chiang, ,Carrie Ann Stein, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Emily Katherine Reader, ,Esther Hong, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,graduates, ,graduates 2013, ,Jaimee McKenna, ,knitwear, ,Lauren Smith, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maiko Takeda, ,Min Wu, ,New Talent, ,Rose Petal Deer, ,Royal College of Art, ,Saara Karppinen, ,Sadie Williams, ,Shih-Chien University, ,Xiao Li, ,xplusyequals

Amelia’s Magazine | Jean-Pierre Braganza: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

For A/W 2014 Jean-Pierre Braganza showcased his signature intergalactic prints on assymetric draped dresses, boxy front shirts and a tie fronted pant suit. Up close the galaxy swirls revealed limbs, faces and delicate geometric patterns… a nod to the work of Italian Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi, whose paintings feature strong women from myths and the Bible. Monochrome swirls again appeared writ large on a louche sweater top that I would be more than happy to get my hands on, worn with zippered leather trousers and a wispy plait.

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-trench coat dress

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-two

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-crop

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-sweater

Jean Pierre Braganza by Harriet Alice Fox

Jean Pierre Braganza A/W 2014 by Harriet Alice Fox.

Braganza‘s speciality is combining fluid tailoring with more structured pieces, and some of the strongest pieces were a couple of stunning boxy textured overcoats. As a creator of clothing for strong independent women the zenith of this collection were eye-catching placement prints of Gentileschi‘s ladies on box tops and A-line skirts. Once again Braganza has made a beautiful collection that further refines his futuristic aesthetic whilst incorporating intriguing references in an innovative way.

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-coat

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-short sleeved coat

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-artemesia dress

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-artemesia print dress

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 18th, 2014 9:15 am

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Artemisia Gentileschi, ,Artimisia, ,Harriet Alice Fox, ,Jean Pierre Braganza, ,Report, ,review, ,Somerset House, ,xplusyequals

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