A/W 2014 – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Simon Ekrelius introduces Monochrome, his new A/W 2014 collection

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Last week Simon Ekrelius showcased a preview selection of garments from his pared down A/W 2014 collection, titled Monochrome. Inspired by iconic model Lee Miller, this season the Swedish designer has focused on a sleek and eminently wearable silhouette, which features innovative fabric treatments and his razor sharp signature tailoring.

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Megan Thomas

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Megan Thomas.

When did you first discover the muse for your latest collection, Lee Miller?
Many years ago when I read into Man Ray‘s life and realised that Lee was very involved with his work and the solarisation technique.

simon ekrelius 1

simon ekrelius 2

How did this translate into elements of the Monochrome collection?
Indirectly I wanted to translate the feeling I had for her relationship with photography, perhaps a longshot for some but my idea was to describe her in the time now if she would be alive. So I cut lines all over the body, which were then sprayed and painted. Many of the constructions retain a certain mood, as does the palette and the structure of the fabrics. She created something very subdued through photography; very beautiful and simple. She was stuck in my mind for a long period and now was the right time to bring it all up.

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Sangita Kumari

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Sangita Kumari.

What are the key materials and processes used in these garments?
There is wool, cotton, silk, poly blends and nylon. The crème coloured cotton canvas and the black cotton satin has been painted and then sprayed with acrylic.

simon ekrelius 3

simon ekrelius 4

What are your favourite pieces in the collection?
The wool coat with pleats, the spray painted pieces, the black silk organza blouse and dress, the grey pieces, the black shiny and matt jersey dress and the jumpsuit with lighter vertical lines.

simon ekrelius 5

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

Who do you hope will wear these garments and why?
Kate Moss, Tilda Swinton, Lily Cole, and Cate Blanchett: because I know they would carry my pieces perfectly.

You can read our previous interview with Simon Ekrelius here.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 11th, 2014 12:55 pm

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Cate Blanchett, ,Kate Moss, ,Lee Miller, ,Lily Cole, ,Man Ray, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Megan Thomas, ,monochrome, ,Sangita Kumari, ,Simon Ekrelius, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Tilda Swinton, ,xplusyequals

Amelia’s Magazine | Topman Design: London Collections: Men A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Topman Design A/W 2014 by Dom&Ink

It was raining, men at the Old Sorting Office on Monday for my first show of this (awkwardly branded) London Collections: Men A/W 2014 season – Topman Design.

Topman Design A/W 2014 by Dom&Ink

I can’t be bothered to drone on about the usual fuss that preceded this event, but I’ll just say that my standing ticket offered zero VIP service. Inside I stood in a herd of people five rows deep, aiming my Canon zoom lens through heads while those around me took terrible photographs on point-and-shoot cameras, iPhones and iPads. There’s a whole other piece I could write here, touched on much more eloquently than I could by Michael over at Anastasia Duck, but I will say this: I’ve invested in a decent camera and pride myself on taking decent images that I hope offer a slightly different insight to the normal catwalking shots we’re all familiar with. This is why I continue to work with Amelia because we share the same values when it comes to documenting the shows, but it seems to be getting increasingly difficult to do the job and I left feeling somewhat frustrated.

All photography by Matt Bramford

I probably say the same thing every season, but I’m always reserved about Topman. Aesthetically they’ve upped their game, and whoever is in charge seems to know what they’re doing in the hope of offering a collection akin to the strong contenders on the LC:M schedule. This season relied heavily on a palette of black and red with an injection of pale blue pieces. Box-shaped overcoats offered a different silhouette, sharp tailored blazers worked effortlessly with plaid shirts and heavy knitwear pieces adopting a variety of techniques were exciting.

As usual there were some slightly off pieces – a red tee with graphic lettering (above) looked like something you’d buy on a whim in Kavos after two fishbowl cocktails and some of the double-breasted coats looked awkward on slight-framed models, but overall this was a coherent collection. A reasonable price point means it does offer something more interesting than the rest of the High Street without an outrageous price tag.

For the finale, the heavens (well, the rigging) opened to soak the models as they reappeared for the recap. Not for the first time in history but it was a spectacle none-the-less, but I sure as hell don’t fancy getting caught in the rain in one of those chunky knits. I’m not sure if there was a message here, or how it related to the clothes. Perhaps it was an unsubtle way of saying LOOK OUR THREADS WITHSTAND RAIN, WE’RE NOT CHEAP; maybe it was merely for the aesthetic, but I bloody enjoyed it and everybody else seemed to.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday January 14th, 2014 9:58 am

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,catwalk, ,Dom&Ink, ,Dominic Evans, ,fashion, ,knitwear, ,LCM, ,LCMAW2014, ,london, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,Old Sorting Office, ,Rain, ,review, ,Topman Design, ,Weather Girls

Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

We ran a preview of Vita Gottlieb’s fourth collection, so I had an inkling of what to expect from the Fashion Fringe finalist before she took to the Fashion Scout catwalk for the first time for a stunning rendition of what she does best: combining sumptuous textiles with an intriguing silhouette.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb by Kit Wagstaff

Vita Gottlieb by Kit Wagstaff.

Vita Gottlieb names this collection Caged, after an imaginary film featuring Grace Jones in a Majaraja’s palace. The idea of birds in flight at sunset (this would obviously be a beautiful cinematic experience) influenced the romantic warmth of the fiery colour palette, with prints and textiles rich in multi-coloured spice hues. A more literal interpretation came in the form of birds floating across a pretty landscape print.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

The caged theme appeared in a skirt and jacket made up entirely of strips, and appeared in more commercial form as glossy black bindings, highlighting womanly curves. Alongside skin tight separates there were also boxy jackets and eye-catching layered maxi skirts. Furled scarfs gave detail to the neck, buckled arm cuffs added edge and sheer and textured black fabrics were rendered especially stunning with the addition of multi coloured appliqué details. The show closed with a magnificent yellow dress, split to the upper thigh and resplendent with a dramatic zig-zag design.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-end

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday March 3rd, 2014 5:17 pm

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Caged, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grace Jones, ,Kit Wagstaff, ,Majaraja, ,review, ,Vita Gottlieb, ,xplusyequals

Amelia’s Magazine | Yifang Wan: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Yifang Wang A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Yifang Wan A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Yifang Wan showcased a sleek collection accessorised with dagger sharp neckwear as a Fashion Scout Merit Award winner this time last year, so it was great to catch up with her again. Against a backdrop of glitchy beats she sent models down the catwalk in a range of seductive wintery hues – lilac, glittery navy blue, deep plum and grey, paired with bare legs and the simplest of black heels.

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Wan’s talent lies in the creation of super desirable clothing which nevertheless bears a unique twist – this season boxy jackets, simple flip skirts and elegant tapered trousers in wool and mohair were variously cut with patch pockets, pleats, wide collars and dangling lengths of fabric.

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Asymmetric shapes, apron layers and a detachable collar feature gave yet another element of interest to this wonderful collection. Yifang Wan calls this ‘simplistic workwear’ and indeed it is – the perfect way to dress for modern working life at the desk and dashing between meetings. I think she will soon amass countless fawning fans, eager to adopt the Yifang Wan way of dressing for work.

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday February 26th, 2014 10:03 am

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Fashion Scout, ,lfw, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Merit Award Winner, ,review, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Yifang Wan

Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Kartal: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Zeynep Kartel A/W 2014 by Melissa Angelik

Zeynep Kartel A/W 2014 by Melissa Angelik.

I was witness to the run through for Zeynep Kartal when I took a wrong turning at Freemasons’ Hall and ended up in the wrong venue… easy to do when the route to the shows are changed each season. This meant I already had a clear idea of the kind of thing to expect from this Turkish designer well before I sat down for the main event.

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynap Kartal A/W 2014 by Isher Dhiman

Zeynap Kartal A/W 2014 by Isher Dhiman.

The Manchester based designer boasts more than twenty years of experience in the fashion business, and for her first turn on the London Fashion Week catwalk she delivered pretty embellished evening wear fabricated from sheer and glitzy fabrics in an eye-pleasing colour palette of deep blue, blood red, gold and cream. Pattern details on this elegant and feminine collection were inspired by a combination of the Gothic revival architecture of Manchester’s Town Hall and Hollywood high glamour. The show ended with a fabulous 40s inspired wedding dress from her bridal range, but my favourite pieces (and the most fashion forward of the show) were those that featured a delicate all over sequinned zebra pattern. You can never have enough animal patterns in your life, you know.

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday February 27th, 2014 7:20 pm

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,catwalk, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Hollywood, ,Isher Dhiman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Melissa Angelik, ,review, ,Town Hall, ,Turkish, ,Zeynep Kartal

Amelia’s Magazine | Min Wu: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Presentation Review

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Min Wu is yet another of the super talented Chinese designers who are training in London and going on to showcase their collections at London Fashion Week. Min Wu gained an MA at London College of Fashion last year, and her Atmosphere and Automation presentation built on the clean lines and sculptural embellishments of her final MA collection. It also used the same eye catching ombre shading, this time on wool separates and mesh fabric crafted into both boxy and blouson shapes. The models wore their hair in intricate plaits, offset by huge swinging bead earrings.

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Briony Jose

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Briony Jose.

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by on Tuesday February 25th, 2014 6:46 pm

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Atmosphere and Automation, ,Briony Jose, ,Chinese, ,London College of Fashion, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Min Wu, ,Slowly the Eggs

Amelia’s Magazine | Napsugar Von Bittera: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Presentation Review

Napsugar Von Bittera By Sangita Kumari

Napsugar Von Bittera by Sangita Kumari.

Hungarian designer Napsugar Von Bittera put together a pop art inspired presentation at Fashion Scout, with models posing around and against set pieces which included a gargantuan packet of popcorn and a giant lollipop. Models wore louche up-dos, red lips and cut out heels with red socks peeping through. Laser cut leather in deep blue, black and white was crafted into highly wearable dresses, jackets and swing skirts with zip detailing.

Napsugar AW 2014-blue jacket photography by Amelia Gregory

Napsugar AW 2014-black dress photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday February 27th, 2014 3:09 pm

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Fashion Scout, ,Hungarian, ,Napsugar von Bittera, ,Sangita Kumari

Amelia’s Magazine | Ong-Oaj Pairam: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Ong-Oaj Pairam by Robyn Wilson-Owen

Ong-Oaj Pairam by Robyn Wilson-Owen.

Brighton University graduate Ong-Oaj Pairam built on his first Fashion Scout catwalk collection, with a slick offering designed to appeal to ladies who lunch… and go out to lots of lavish parties. His muse for the season was Ursula from Disney’s Little Mermaid though this wasn’t immediately apparent in this 50s influenced collection, which included pretty cinch waist crop jackets and matching pants, A-line skirts and swing dresses for daytime, following through to dramatic embellished strapless floor sweeping frocks for night, all worn with plump red lips and carefree updos.

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2014 by Angelica Moreno

Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2014 by Angelica Moreno.

Bright primary colours were worn with more subtle monochrome prints that were inspired by the markings of dangerous animals and the work of famous illustrator Charlie Harper. For the man who might care to dabble in high fashion there were some dapper leather jackets and a fabulous high collared pillar box red suit with peacoat styling.

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday February 24th, 2014 4:49 pm

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Angelica Moreno, ,Brighton University, ,Charlie Harper, ,Disney, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Little Mermaid, ,Ong-Oaj Pairam, ,Robyn Wilson-Owen, ,Ursula

Amelia’s Magazine | Pam Hogg: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Pam Hogg A/W 2014 by Marina Muun

Pam Hogg A/W 2014 by Marina Muun

I thoroughly enjoyed the Pam Hogg S/S 2014 catwalk show last September, bathed as it was in a joyous theatrical atmosphere. So I was a little surprised to find that this season the Pam Hogg A/W 2014 show felt like a deflated repetition of last year, with a couple of the outfits seemingly almost identical to those shown for S/S 2014. However, it all made much more sense when, afterwards, I found out more about how and why this collection was created. In fact, Pam Hogg had opted not to show this season, but had a change of heart after a last minute personal request from Amnesty International to give a nod to Russian punk band Pussy Riot during London Fashion Week, especially as the event coincided with the Winter Olympics in Sochi, Russia. Therefore, there were only three weeks to put the collection together.

Pam Hogg A/W 2014 by Jenny Robins

Pam Hogg A/W 2014 by Jenny Robins

Pam Hogg A-W 2014 catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg A/W 2014 by Kit Wagstaff

Pam Hogg A/W 2014 by Kit Wagstaff

The show was titled COURAGE and opened with models carrying boards emblazoned with the statements “This is a dedication to Pussy Riot” and “This collection is not for sale“. The first section of the collection featured the distinctive coloured balaclavas which have become a widely-recognised symbol of the Pussy Riot girls, and was a straight dedication to the group. Pam Hogg sent ethereal bridal looks accessorised with ornate gold headpieces down the catwalk on a mixture of male, female and transexual models, perhaps in an effort to highlight the issues around gay marriage, especially in Russia. According to her, gold represents the church and white represents peace and love for everyone. The intense colours that were patchworked into her trademark catsuits were her tribute to the gay community and the richness that it has given culture.

Pam Hogg A-W 2014 catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg A/W 2014 by Mitika Suri

Pam Hogg A/W 2014 by Mitika Suri

Pam Hogg A-W 2014 catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou.

Written by Maria Papadimitriou on Thursday February 27th, 2014 10:21 am

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Amnesty, ,Amnesty International, ,Catwalk review, ,COURAGE, ,Fashion Scout, ,Jenny Robins, ,Kit Wagstaff, ,LGBT, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Mitika Chohan, ,Mitika Suri, ,Pam Hogg, ,protest, ,punk, ,pussy riot, ,Russia!, ,Sochi, ,Winter Olympics

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2014: Off Strand exhibition at Hoxton Gallery

Mury print scarves

During London Fashion Week I popped in to the off schedule Off Strand presentation at Hoxton Gallery in East London, a well curated and beautifully presented show organised by Anna of the Pitchouguina label. First discovery: the beautiful abstract print scarves above, by ethical accessories brand Mury.

Niza Huang ring

I have previously admired jewellery by Niza Huang at Somerset House, but her new range looks even better: riffing on the ever popular roughly hewn look. I was very sad to hear that someone had stolen one of her pieces shortly before my visit (what a bastard, but small comfort that at least he had good taste). I am sure she will do well, especially with a number of delicate new pieces currently in the pipeline.

Arlette Ess scarves

Arlette Ess is a former model, graphic designer and mother who is now applying her illustrative skills to a range of gorgeous scarves.

Alexa de Castilho necklaces

Pineapple and palm tree spinning disc pendants have a definite 80s vibe, designed by Alexa De Castilho. Her display featured a pair of gold ceramic prancing horses, found for a song in a car boot sale. Jealous, moi?

goodone bomber knit

I was really happy to discover that Goodone (who vanished for a year or so) is back again, this time with a range of brilliant jumpers, dresses and bomber jackets that feature remnants of upcycled aran jumpers. These are manufactured in their Bulgarian factory, which also offers sustainable manufacturing to other brands. Designer Nin Castle is currently pregnant and now living in Spain but her collection looked better than ever. Amazing stuff. And I so want one of those knitted bomber jackets.

Gina Melosi jewels

I loved the use of fair trade raw gems and recycled metals in elegantly displayed jewellery by Gina Melosi.

pitchouguina bryksenkova collaboration

Finally, but of course by no means least, it was ace to see the last two Pitchouguina collections, which combine unusual colours and fabrics to create unique but highly wearable garments. I immediately homed in on a new piece that featured a beautiful and instantly recognisable illustration, by none other than our much loved Yelena Bryksenkova, who has of course worked with Amelia’s Magazine for many years. You can read my recent interview with Anna here.

You can read my review of the exhibition stands at Somerset House here.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday March 6th, 2014 12:43 pm

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Alexa De Castilho, ,Arlette Ess, ,Ecofashion, ,ethical, ,Gina Melosi, ,goodone, ,Hoxton Gallery, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mury, ,Nin Castle, ,Niza Huang, ,Off Strand, ,Pitchouguina, ,Report, ,review, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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