Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

We ran a preview of Vita Gottlieb’s fourth collection, so I had an inkling of what to expect from the Fashion Fringe finalist before she took to the Fashion Scout catwalk for the first time for a stunning rendition of what she does best: combining sumptuous textiles with an intriguing silhouette.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb by Kit Wagstaff

Vita Gottlieb by Kit Wagstaff.

Vita Gottlieb names this collection Caged, after an imaginary film featuring Grace Jones in a Majaraja’s palace. The idea of birds in flight at sunset (this would obviously be a beautiful cinematic experience) influenced the romantic warmth of the fiery colour palette, with prints and textiles rich in multi-coloured spice hues. A more literal interpretation came in the form of birds floating across a pretty landscape print.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

The caged theme appeared in a skirt and jacket made up entirely of strips, and appeared in more commercial form as glossy black bindings, highlighting womanly curves. Alongside skin tight separates there were also boxy jackets and eye-catching layered maxi skirts. Furled scarfs gave detail to the neck, buckled arm cuffs added edge and sheer and textured black fabrics were rendered especially stunning with the addition of multi coloured appliqué details. The show closed with a magnificent yellow dress, split to the upper thigh and resplendent with a dramatic zig-zag design.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-end

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Caged, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grace Jones, ,Kit Wagstaff, ,Majaraja, ,review, ,Vita Gottlieb, ,xplusyequals

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Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb: London Fashion Week Fashion Fringe S/S 2013 Catwalk Preview Interview

vita gottlieb by Alexa Coe
Vita Gottlieb A/W 2012 by Alexa Coe.

I’ve known of Vita Gottlieb through mutual friends for many years so when I bumped into her recently it was something of a surprise to hear of plans to launch herself as a fashion designer, having worked previously in fine art, film and textile design. I was then really happy to discover (via facebook, where else?) that she had been shortlisted as a finalist for this season’s Fashion Fringe. Here she describes the incredible journey she has made: inspiring stuff for all would be fashion designers!

Vita Gottlieb by Angela Lamb
Vita Gottlieb by Angela Lamb.

You are a textile designer by training – how difficult was it to become a fashion designer? Where did you learn to think in terms of putting your textiles on the body?
I actually trained in the more theoretical area of art history – then did an MA in Fine Art – it was here I started to experiment with my illustrative and graphical sketches, putting them into prints and wall hangings. It seemed natural to move into textiles from there and then translate these 2-D forms into 3-D with fashion. I’ve always needed to work with my hands and love the direct process of designing textile prints, then using these to design on the body. The prints inform the process and I absolutely love it. Finally I feel I can use and be inspired by all my passions – film, art, stories, travel and wilderness.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2012
Vita Gottlieb AW 2012
Vita Gottlieb A/W 2012.

Prior to that you also worked in film and gained a degree in fine art. What do you think led you to fashion after so many years in other design disciplines?
I suppose I like to slow-cook things! Sometimes you need a bit of time to work through all the peripheral ambitions and come slowly into settling on something that feels right and at the right time. I don’t think I would have been good in the fashion industry in my early 20s – I was quite sensitive and volatile, and probably would have been swallowed up or waylaid by it all! I love film and always will but ultimately wanted to be in control of a more contained aesthetic, and with fashion, you really can make things happen in an exciting, organic way. It’s akin to being an artist – it’s your vision, your story, but you need to communicate this message clearly in order to make it happen. Art and film will always feed into my work though, through the creation of story and mood, the use of print and fabric manipulation. I’ve also always loved texture, the feel and emotion of strong colour, of materials themselves. Fashion seems to encapsulate all of these things in such a magical way.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2012
Vita Gottlieb AW 2012
Vita Gottlieb A/W 2012.

What did you learn from your years working in interiors that you have been able to apply to your fashion designs?
For around 3 years I free-lanced as a textile designer in both the interiors market and also, I designed and made my own accessories for the body which sold at trade and public fairs. The biggest learning curve from that for me has been understanding how to translate ideas from the graphic ‘doodles’ I was making in textile print – which had a flat, albeit malleable substrate – into a conversation with construction, silhouette, movement. The amazing thing for me now is witnessing how much the 3-dimensional form in the movement of fabric can really alter my thinking on a design. It’s wonderful to watch it develop through sketches, into a pattern, all the protos and finally, to see a garment on a real body is just so exciting.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2012 scarf
What makes your scarf collection so unique?
I’d say my use of colour, graphic repeat prints and intricate detail. They’re trans-seasonal, so can be worn with anything and by anyone all year round.

Vita Gottlieb, Illustration by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard
Vita Gottlieb S/S 2013 preview by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard.

What was the inspiration behind your A/W 2012 collection?
AW12 was inspired by elements of the forest floor and the tactile quality of bark, moss, the underside of mushrooms. I had this image of a disenchanted forest filled with creeping lianas and the raw-edged, tactile textures of fallen leaves. Also, the colours of dusk. Dusk and moonlight, magic hour – I think these qualities of light will form a puncture through many collections to come.

Vita Gottlieb SS 2012 Nightbird (illustrated preview by Vita)
Vita Gottlieb S/S 2012 Nightbird (illustrated preview by Vita).

What was the process of being picked for Fashion Fringe? Where did it all start?!
It’s been an amazing journey so far! It started with a question – should I really apply? Do I have a chance? I thought it was a no until I woke up one day and just said to myself ‘there’s nothing to lose’ – classic, really. Something in the way the criteria for entry was written gave me hope as it seemed to me to encapsulate everything I wanted my label to be. It’s incredible to have got this far! I remember the day Christopher Bailey called, personally, to say I was a Semi-Finalist; I was in New York at the time and literally jumped around the room I was in. Being announced as a Finalist was one of those moments I won’t forget – the elation, nerves, and fear! I think I’m more afraid of success than I am of failure, much as I want and am working for it – but there’s no looking back now. The team at Fashion Fringe have been amazing and so supportive throughout, which amongst many other things has made the whole process such a joy and privilege.

 Vita Gottlieb SS 2012 Tamsin (illustrated preview by Vita)q
Vita Gottlieb S/S 2012 Tamsin (illustrated preview by Vita)

I can’t wait to see your new collection: the description sounds incredibly romantic and dreamy – are you a dreamer? What’s the best dream you’ve ever had?
Oh, man, I am a consummate dreamer! Both day and night. Reverie is a favourite hobby of mine. Often I dream of flying through the universe, diving in and out of colours and natural patterns of movement – sometimes I go back in time and poke about cobbled alleys and strange places. Always there’s a lot of movement, colour and music. I wake up shaking from the images sometimes. But it’s so much a part of me.

Vita Gottlieb S/S 2013 preview by Catherine Moody
Vita Gottlieb S/S 2013 preview by Catherine Moody.

The collection will layer eastern and western references – what motifs have you taken from each place, and how have you mixed them up?
SS13 is inspired in part by Paul Poiret‘s 1911 party ‘Thousand and Second Night‘, where guests were asked to wear Persian dress and indulge in dancing in the moonlight… I love the idea of layering Eastern influences into Western ideas; some of the prints are inspired by and use motifs from Georges Barbier‘s early twentieth century illustrations. I also thought about moonlight as a mood and infused some of the colours of that hour, just after dusk, in an imaginary city full of minarets and flickering lights. In terms of Western influences, I’ve tried to create a bit of a puncture through accessories and silhouettes.

vita gottlieb pinterest
You are an avid fan of Pinterest – how do you use it to collate and filter your ideas?
Yes, I love it as it’s such an easy way of keeping all your ideas and inspirations in once place. I’m a real sketchbook hoarder and keep everything I sketch or write in books at home or in the studio – but Pinterest I use more for general interest inspiration. And for food porn, it’s great for that!

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2012 by Lea Rimoux
Vita Gottlieb A/W 2012 by Lea Rimoux.

In fact you are quite internet savvy all around, why do you think (as an up and coming designer) it’s important to be so visible on social media networks? Do you plan to sell all your collections online?
Being social-media savvy doesn’t necessarily come naturally and I was definitely a Facebook/Twitter abstainer for a LONG time. But once I’d set up my business I recognised just how useful it can be and have become a lot more interactive now. It’s mainly for business but I try to pepper what I post with some personal and quirky content too. I think it’s important not to forget that there is a person behind the label and to inject some personality into it all. As an emerging designer I think it’s imperative to use social media to maximise your profile – and to keep in touch with what your potential customers want, that’s key too. Currently I sell my scarves online but yes, eventually I do plan on selling the collections too. It’s exciting to see what the internet can realise for my label – you can’t ignore it anymore!

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2012 by Lea Rimoux
Vita Gottlieb A/W 2012 by Lea Rimoux.

I believe you are a foodie – what is your must have edible delight whilst working on your new collection?
Ah, I am definitely a foodie! I’ve always loved food – eating, cooking, everything really. I read recipe books as pleasure. Hmm, must-have edible delight? Hard to say as I love so many things – Asian flavours, home-cooked, big, flavoursome dishes, vegetables from the garden (one radish, this year..no time to garden!), things like shepherd’s pie and fresh peas or glazed salmon in honey, mirin and lime. Don’t get me started! But it has to be savoury, I’m not really inclined toward sweet things.

Can you give us any hints as to what to expect in your Fashion Fringe catwalk show? (music… casting.. atmosphere etc)
I believe you’ll be there, so, you will have to wait and see, Amelia!

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2012 by Lea Rimoux
Vita Gottlieb A/W 2012 by Lea Rimoux.

What are your hopes for the future?
I’d like to build a successful, well-regarded and creative womenswear label, branching out with a diffusion line, travel lifestyle and perhaps lingerie. One day I’d love to open a kind of eco-lodge in a hot tropical country by the sea. You see, I am a dreamer! More locally, I’m interested in collaboration with other artists and creative professionals, making fashion films, happenings and shows, and see the future as a very exciting thing.

Vita Gottleib A/W 2012 by Gemma Sheldrake
Vita Gottleib A/W 2012 by Gemma Sheldrake.

See more from Vita Gottlieb here… I can’t wait to see the entire collection on the catwalk! Vita Gottlieb shows alongside Haizhen Wang and Teija Eilola in the BFC Courtyard Show Space on Tuesday 18th September 2012.

vita-gottlieb by Melissa Angelik
Vita Gottlieb by Melissa Angelik.

Categories ,Alexa Coe, ,Angela Lamb, ,Catherine Moody, ,Christopher Bailey, ,Courtyard Show Space, ,Fashion Fringe, ,film, ,Fine Art, ,Gemma Sheldrake, ,Georges Barbier, ,Haizhen Wang, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Lea Rimoux, ,lfw, ,Melissa Angelik, ,Nightbird, ,Paul Poiret, ,Pinterest, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,S/S 2013, ,Tamsin, ,Teija Eilola, ,Textile Design, ,Thousand and Second Night, ,Vita Gottlieb

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Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

vita gottlieb - llfw - ss15 - jenny robins
Vita Gottlieb by Jenny Robins.

She may only have been creating collections for a few seasons, but Vita Gottlieb has already honed her look to great effect. For her S/S 2015 collection Microworld Vita found inspiration at the bottom of the sea; in the peachy hues of coral reefs and the creature filled waters of the far deep. A sensation of floating was achieved by the use of gossamer light asymmetric panels of georgette, juxtaposed against graphical black blocks on slouchy tees and swing skirts. Signature prints were created from the swirling botanical illustrations of Ernst Haeckel and worked well with stripes of contrast bias binding and delicate layered waist ties. Lacey laser cut gloves, smokey eyes, high hair and spike heeled metallic sandals gave a glamorous edge to everyday pieces, as Vita Gottlieb once more successfully married the avante grade with the wearable.

Scroll to the bottom to watch the video of the show.

Vita Gottlieb by Karolina Burdon
Vita Gottlieb by Karolina Burdon.

Vita Gottlieb SS15 by Isabelle Mattern
Vita Gottlieb SS15 by Isabelle Mattern.

Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Vita Gottlieb SS15 show video from Vita Gottlieb on Vimeo.

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Ernst Haeckel, ,Fashion Scout, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,Jenny Robins, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Microworld, ,S/S 2015, ,SS15, ,Vita Gottlieb

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Amelia’s Magazine | Christmas Gift Ideas 2013: Jewellery

EA Burns, Ancient Rites, Span the depths earrings

Span the Depths earrings by EA Burns.

Regular readers will know of my love for jewellery, so naturally my new market place (to be launched in the New Year) will feature the work of some wonderful jewellery designers. Expect to find unusual and unique pieces created from a wide variety of materials and styles and to suit whatever budget you have. Think precious metals, fine jewels, hand made, ethical and much more: the one thing that all the pieces you discover on Amelia’s Magazine will share is impeccable design credentials. And so without further ado here’s a selection of gift ideas for Christmas from some of my new partners.

Annabelle Lucilla Jewellery Oriental Tasseled Hoop Ring in silver on model

Annabelle Lucilla is fast making a name for herself with her range of stunning etched jewellery, created from her studio in Cockpit Arts. Rings are a bestseller, so why not lay your hands on this unusual tasselled ring in either silver or gold plated brass at £70 from her Oriental collection – it’s sure to make your Christmas festivities swing. Read my recent interview with Annabelle Lucilla here.

EA Burns Ancient Rites Megalith Necklace

I love the new Ancient Rites collection from ethical jeweller EA Burns, and if you really fancy splashing out on a stand out statement piece you should look no further than this Megalith necklace for £560. If your budget doesn’t stretch quite that far there are many smaller pieces within the collection that are bound to be met with a merry smile on Christmas day. Read my interview with Lizzie Burns here.

Moko Sellars bone china reversed diamond ring

Bone china rings by Moko Sellars make a very unusual gift and are very reasonably priced too. This Reversed Diamond Bone China Ring is glazed in a glossy clear finish and was inspired by the rigid lattice structure of a diamond and costs just £35. Who needs real diamonds eh? Read our interview with Moko Sellars here.

Milena Kovanovic - Ursulas Hoard rings

Gemologist Milena Kovanovic works with unusual gems such as Uvite and Vanadinite. The La Belle Ring features a big orange oval Carnelian surrounded by seed petals set in rose gold plated silver in a hammered band. Best of all, if you spend over £500 on her website you get a free pair of earrings thrown in. Read more about Milena Kovanovic in my interview here.

Rosita Bonita - tassel_pendant and earrings

Rosita Bonita‘s new A/W 2013 collection Toledo takes inspiration from the traditional damascene jewellery of Spain & Japan. Delicate illustrations fuse the two styles together in these dainty gold embossed leather tassel earrings. At £32 they won’t break the bank either. Perfect. Here is our interview with Rosita Bonita.

Sarah Angold bracelet jewellery

Sarah Angold works in perspex to create extravagant architectural pieces for many other big name designers. She also has her own collection where you can discover pieces such as this Cetra Bracelet: at £485 it makes a considered purchase but one that is sure to make you stand out in the crowd. I will be interviewing Sarah soon.

If you love fashion why not also check out my gift ideas here? I’ve got more suggestions for gifts coming up shortly, so stay tuned.

Categories ,Ancient Rites, ,Annabelle Lucilla, ,Cetra Bracelet, ,Cockpit Arts, ,EA Burns, ,Lizzie Burns, ,Megalith necklace, ,Milena Kovanovic, ,Moko Sellars, ,Oriental collection, ,Reversed Diamond Bone China Ring, ,Rosita Bonita, ,Sarah Angold, ,Span the Depths, ,Toledo, ,Uvite, ,Vanadinite

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Fringe: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Haizhen Wang S/S 2013 by faye west
Haizhen Wang S/S 2013 by Faye West.

I was very excited about this year’s Fashion Fringe: it’s always a great place to discover the talent of years to come (think Fyodor Golan and Corrie Nielsen) but this time there was also the chance that my acquaintance Vita Gottlieb might win. So it was with some anticipation that I took my seat for my last show of the season in the BFC tent at Somerset House.

Haizhen Wang S/S 2013 by Lo Parkin
Haizhen Wang S/S 2013 by Lo Parkin.

Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Haizhen Wang photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Haizhen Wang photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Haizhen Wang photography by Amelia Gregory
First up was the collection from Haizhen Wang, with expert tailoring based on the tabard structures of Japanese armour and historical costumes alongside deconstructed asymmetrical layering in a graphic print. The garments came in a predominantly black colour palette with flashes of textured steel and rows of cobalt beading. Models wore Geisha influenced platform heels and severe haircuts or conical headgear. Haizhen Wang is a graduate of both the London School of Fashion and Central Saint Martins – since when he’s had a good grounding in the industry working with labels as diverse as Max Mara and All Saints.

Teija Eilola S/S 2013 by Lo Parkin
Teija Eilola S/S 2013 by Lo Parkin.

Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Teija Eilola photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Teija Eilola photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Teija Eilola photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Teija Eilola photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Teija Eilola photography by Amelia Gregory
Second up came the collection from Finnish designer Teija Eilola, who describes her inspiration thus: ‘A Finnish girl arrives at the party: shoes in her bag and a huge, crisp mackintosh over her little silk dress. On the way to the party she crossed a forest and a couple of fields.‘ In practice this meant a finely tailored range of sensible separates in muted mushroom and flesh tones. The range featured double breasted detailing on a short blouson sleeved trench coat and mini cropped version, rucheing on a demure bodice and plenty of capacious bags: an eye on brand extension already? Her sensible approach could be explained by the fact that until recently Teija Eilola was joint head of womenswear at Ted Baker. Prior to that she worked at smaller labels after graduating from the RCA.

Vita Gottlieb S/S 2013 by Lo Parkin
Vita Gottlieb S/S 2013 by Lo Parkin.

Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Vita Gottlieb photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Vita Gottlieb photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Vita Gottlieb photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Vita Gottlieb photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Vita Gottlieb photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Vita Gottlieb photography by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Vita Gottlieb photography by Amelia Gregory
Rounding up the trio was the work of relative newcomer Vita Gottlieb, who styled her models in high backcombed quiffs and classic courts. This was an exciting collection that successfully showcased her prowess in textile manipulation. High waisted pencil skirts featuring poured curves at the waist and elongating vertical ruches were paired with cape shouldered tops covered in subtle printed detail or sculptural spikes: all accessorised with bold leather jewellery embellished with metal rings and studs. Hers was the brightest colour palette of the three, although that wasn’t saying much as she had worked mainly in subtle golden tones and soft browns, highlighted with dashes of teal and luxurious red.

Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Vita Gottlieb photography by Amelia Gregory
By now everyone will know that Haizhen Wang won the award, presented by guest judge Christopher Bailey of Burberry. But I of course think it should have gone to Vita Gottlieb; her tailoring may not have been as clean and precise as the others, but her experimental approach won hands down; resulting in an innovative collection that showed great promise for the future. Read my exclusive pre show interview with Vita Gottlieb here.

Categories ,All Saints, ,Burberry, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Christopher Bailey, ,Corrie Nielsen, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Faye West, ,Fyodor Golan, ,Haizhen Wang, ,Lo Parkin, ,London School of Fashion. RCA, ,Max Mara, ,Somerset House, ,Ted Baker, ,Teija Eilola, ,Vita Gottlieb

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