Lo Parkin – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Spijkers en Spijkers: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Spjikers en Spijkers SS 2013 by Faye West
Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2013 by Faye West.

Spijkers en Spijkers named their S/S 2013 collection La Femme Paysage (meaning Female Landscape) in homage to 20s artist Sonia Delaunay, a member of the Orphist art movement known for her curvy geometric paintings and fabric designs in bold colourways. Orphism seems to be very in this season, I note.

Spjikers en Spjikers SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2013 by Lo Parkin.

The twin sisters Spijkers en Spijkers have become well known for their confident use of colour and shape, so this new source of inspiration suited them perfectly. Out stepped a series of beautifully cut silk dresses in Delaunay shades of red, jade green, yellow, orange, lilac and cornflower blue – variously teamed with crisp monochrome. For the most part necklines were high, though the back became a highlight in a dress featuring perfectly arranged Art Deco lines. Sheer patterned lace was used to create a show-stopping little black dress, and to more commercial effect in panelling when teamed with jewel coloured silk separates.

Spjikers en Spjikers SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory

Spjikers en Spijkers SS 2013 by Faye West
Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2013 by Faye West.

A more painterly approach was taken for a loose shift dress that bore the portrait of the infamous Marchesa Luisa Casati, an eccentric noble woman revered in high society for her commitment to style.

Spjikers en Spjikers SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory

Spijkers en Spijkers S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I particularly loved the hair for this show: loose low slung plaits and wispy headbands which suitably updated the louche historical feel, perfectly teamed with delicate necklaces and strappy heels (a nice change from the crazy platforms that are still dominating the catwalks). This collection was chock full of brilliantly desirable dresses that perfectly embodied the brand’s design ethos.

Spjikers en Spjikers SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Oh, and there’s Snarfle on the row behind me craning his head to see the show…

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Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday September 26th, 2012 5:43 pm

Categories ,20s, ,Art Deco, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,La Femme Paysage, ,lfw, ,Lo Parkin, ,Marchesa Luisa Casati, ,Orphism, ,Orphist, ,S/S 2013, ,Snarfle, ,Sonia Delaunay, ,Spijkers en Spijkers

Amelia’s Magazine | Pam Hogg: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Mitika Chohan.

We have sadly not been invited to a Pam Hogg show for two years now, and boy have I missed them: they are an incredibly hot ticket, so when I arrived late I was only able to secure a good position with the magic addition of a fold up chair. Only when I checked twitter later did I discover that the front row had been the usual celeb fest – I missed Nick Rhodes, Alexandra Burke, Janice Dickinson, Jo Wood and no doubt a host of others. Some of them can be found in this Fashion Scout blog post, as can I, in a lesson on how not to be caught on camera during LFW: looking like a giant warthog (I am HEAVILY PREGNANT) and desperately hoping to escape the photo. Note to self: if in doubt, smile.

Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Pam Hogg AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

The Pam Hogg A/W 2012 catwalk show WILD life began in stately fashion, with a sawing Appalachian violin to accompany the sedate steps of a model in towering ribboned heels. She wore a swinging latex dirndl skirt adorned with Hogg’s trademark geometric shapes in red, black, white and grey that were reminiscent of smaller knitted folk patterns, whilst a huge matching bonnet swallowed her head. Make-up was similarly bold: monobrows met sharply in the middle and accompanied Geisha-like dots above and beneath the eyes.

Pam Hogg AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Lo Parkin.

Jaime Winstone was next to stride out with a bouncy swagger, stopping briefly for a languid barndancing turn with a fellow model in the middle of the catwalk. Then it was on to Pam Hogg‘s inimitable skintight catsuits – this time in an array of geometric, mesh and beribboned combinations.

Pam Hogg AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

As more and more flesh was revealed the models retained a demure demeanour more befitting the previous wide skirts, even as they struggled to stay upright on crippling heels. Well, I say heels: what would have been heels were angled impossibly towards the platformed soles so that the girls appeared to balance on thin air.

Pam Hogg AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Veronica Rowlands.

Red lace, silver lame, and furry merkins… it’s not a mixture I would ever have considered putting together myself, but Pam Hogg somehow combined incongruous materials to extravagant effect. Some of my favourite bodysuits featured carefully placed panels of rucking that puffed out sexily to emphasise womanly curves on buttocks and bosom.

Pam Hogg AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

Geometrics in copper, gold and silver created a futuristic effect as the music segued into something more modern, albeit with violins still at the forefront of the brilliant soundtrack – a testament to Pam’s love of music. Tight fitting dresses and culottes that swung just on the knee were beautifully sexy, especially in mesh with black arrow patterns – proving that these body hugging wonders suit more voluptuous creatures too.

Pam Hogg AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

The show finished with a trio of stunning pieces: a sequinned full length dress in lilac, rose and gold, a dolly like mesh culotte dress with strategically placed lace cascading down the buttocks, and the denouement: a boudoir influenced outfit constructed entirely from red bows, complete with red ribbon garter. For the finale Pam Hogg – sporting cartoon bright yellow hair – was dragged down the catwalk by Jaime Winstone to whoops and hollers from the crowd.

Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Pam Hogg AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

No one can beat Pam Hogg when it comes to reinventing the catsuit – and this show proved that she can cut a mean skirt and bonnet too. In a 2009 interview she spoke honestly of the financial difficulty in creating such avante garde designs and her reliance on friends to sponsor her comeback fashion show: one wonders how she continues to survive, creating such uncommercial but fantastical outfits without which London Fashion Week would be a poorer place.

Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Gilly Rochester.

Pam Hogg AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

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Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday February 24th, 2012 10:54 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Alexandra Burke, ,Appalachian, ,Catsuits, ,Dirndl Skirts, ,Fashion Scout, ,folk, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,geometric, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Jaime Winstone, ,Janice Dickinson, ,Jo Wood, ,Latex, ,lfw, ,Lo Parkin, ,London Fashion Week, ,Merkins, ,Mesh, ,metallics, ,Mitika Chohan, ,Nick Rhodes, ,Pam Hogg, ,Ribbons, ,Veronica Rowlands, ,WILD life

Amelia’s Magazine | Carlotta Actis Barone: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Carlotta by Isabelle Mattern
Carlotta Actis Barone A/W 2013 by Isabelle Mattern

Carlotta Actis Barone took a surprising new direction for her A/W 2013 show at London Fashion Week: last season she sent ballet dancers in giant brightly coloured wigs down the catwalk, but this time she stuck to the basic format and colour was replaced with this season’s biggest trend: simple monochrome. Instead of ruffles and elaborate boning there were chic figure hugging pieces with cut out details. Pieces were chic and elegant, structured and loose fitting, but in true Carlotta Actis Barone style her designs celebrated the female form; curves were enhanced by structured shoulders and sinuous tailoring at the bust and hip.

Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Carlotta Actis Barone by Chloe Douglass
Carlotta Actis Barone A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass

Models were elegant with 1930’s inspired chignons and a sassy stride. Gossamer light chiffon hung in pleats to reveal perfect pins, or in daggered panels to reveal a subtle flash of chest. Constructed dresses featured black and white geometric tailoring in reference to Cubism and Dadaism. Contrasting textures were used to represent the complexity of the female mind, and this beautiful collection certainly complimented the fairer sex.

Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Carlotta by Angela Lamb
Carlotta Actis Barone A/W 2013 by Angela Lamb

Carlotta Actis Barone’s hallmark bodysuit included the work of artist Manuela Corti and was adorned with the slogans ‘Fashion Forgery’ and ‘Fashion Clockwork’. This appears to be a statement about the copycat culture which is rife in the industry, but luckily this is not an issue that Carlotta faces, since her collections are surprisingly different each season and certainly do not lack originality.

Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013
Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Carlotta Actis Barone by Pia Bramley
Carlotta Actis Barone A/W 2013 by Pia Bramley

Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta AW13 by Isher Dhiman
Carlotta Actis Barone A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman

Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

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Written by Zaena Miller on Thursday February 21st, 2013 10:52 pm

Categories ,Angela Lamb, ,Carlotta Actis Barone, ,Chiffon, ,Chloe Douglass, ,Cubism, ,Dadaism, ,Fashion Clockwork, ,Fashion Forgery, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,geometric, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Manuela Corti, ,Pia Bramley, ,tailoring

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Fringe: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Haizhen Wang S/S 2013 by Faye West.

I was very excited about this year’s Fashion Fringe: it’s always a great place to discover the talent of years to come (think Fyodor Golan and Corrie Nielsen) but this time there was also the chance that my acquaintance Vita Gottlieb might win. So it was with some anticipation that I took my seat for my last show of the season in the BFC tent at Somerset House.

Haizhen Wang S/S 2013 by Lo Parkin.

Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Haizhen Wang photography by Amelia Gregory

First up was the collection from Haizhen Wang, with expert tailoring based on the tabard structures of Japanese armour and historical costumes alongside deconstructed asymmetrical layering in a graphic print. The garments came in a predominantly black colour palette with flashes of textured steel and rows of cobalt beading. Models wore Geisha influenced platform heels and severe haircuts or conical headgear. Haizhen Wang is a graduate of both the London School of Fashion and Central Saint Martins – since when he’s had a good grounding in the industry working with labels as diverse as Max Mara and All Saints.

Teija Eilola S/S 2013 by Lo Parkin.

Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Teija Eilola photography by Amelia Gregory

Second up came the collection from Finnish designer Teija Eilola, who describes her inspiration thus: ‘A Finnish girl arrives at the party: shoes in her bag and a huge, crisp mackintosh over her little silk dress. On the way to the party she crossed a forest and a couple of fields.‘ In practice this meant a finely tailored range of sensible separates in muted mushroom and flesh tones. The range featured double breasted detailing on a short blouson sleeved trench coat and mini cropped version, rucheing on a demure bodice and plenty of capacious bags: an eye on brand extension already? Her sensible approach could be explained by the fact that until recently Teija Eilola was joint head of womenswear at Ted Baker. Prior to that she worked at smaller labels after graduating from the RCA.

Vita Gottlieb S/S 2013 by Lo Parkin.

Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Vita Gottlieb photography by Amelia Gregory

Rounding up the trio was the work of relative newcomer Vita Gottlieb, who styled her models in high backcombed quiffs and classic courts. This was an exciting collection that successfully showcased her prowess in textile manipulation. High waisted pencil skirts featuring poured curves at the waist and elongating vertical ruches were paired with cape shouldered tops covered in subtle printed detail or sculptural spikes: all accessorised with bold leather jewellery embellished with metal rings and studs. Hers was the brightest colour palette of the three, although that wasn’t saying much as she had worked mainly in subtle golden tones and soft browns, highlighted with dashes of teal and luxurious red.

Fashion Fringe SS 2013 Vita Gottlieb photography by Amelia Gregory
By now everyone will know that Haizhen Wang won the award, presented by guest judge Christopher Bailey of Burberry. But I of course think it should have gone to Vita Gottlieb; her tailoring may not have been as clean and precise as the others, but her experimental approach won hands down; resulting in an innovative collection that showed great promise for the future. Read my exclusive pre show interview with Vita Gottlieb here.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday October 15th, 2012 10:08 pm

Categories ,All Saints, ,Burberry, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Christopher Bailey, ,Corrie Nielsen, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Faye West, ,Fyodor Golan, ,Haizhen Wang, ,Lo Parkin, ,London School of Fashion. RCA, ,Max Mara, ,Somerset House, ,Ted Baker, ,Teija Eilola, ,Vita Gottlieb

Amelia’s Magazine | Ashish: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows.

This season Ashish turned to his roots for Bollywouldn’t, a collection which married the iconography of hippy India with late 80s rave culture, both style eras that have been repeatedly plundered by successive generations – one need only think of New Rave, that short lived phenomenon of just a few years ago. However, in the inimitable hands of Ashish, these styles have been reinvented once more, in a dusty meets fluoro palette of clashing logos and decorative decals.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows.

Models wore elaborate beaded face jewellery based on traditional Indian jewellery, with the addition of the odd cut out CND logo. High crepe soled rainbow platforms riffed on Ashish‘s usual love of DM boots. Shapes were mainly slouchy, with relaxed cardigans and hoods piled on top of baggy pants. The omnipresent sequins were of course in effect, creating smiley face repeat patterns, garish paisleys or giant body hugging pink buddhas.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Ashish A/W 2012 by Vicky Ink aka Vicky Fallon.

A clever two fingered slogan was repeated front and back, transferring its meaning in the event. Even a rainbow tie-dye design got the intricate sequinned treatment with Ashish. Hare Krishna style influenced ochre shirts were printed with deep red slogans: worn by boys hiding in cowl necked scarves. For women the same scarves came in dusky pinks and dove grey.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Ashish A/W 2012 by Antonia Parker.

Ashish always accompanies his collections with an evocative piece of prose that describes his muse. This season ‘She travels light, but shops heavy… Some say she’s a hippie, but she denies it: her shopping chakra dictates otherwise.’ It seems that for A/W 2012 Ashish has his designer tongue wedged ever more firmly in his cheek, and, as ever, I love him for it. Predictably, there were so many pieces that I loved in this imaginative and witty collection.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Ashish A/W 2012 by Sarah Jayne Draws.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday March 2nd, 2012 4:43 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Antonia Parker, ,Ashish, ,Bollywouldn’t, ,Catherine Meadows, ,catwalk, ,CND, ,DMs, ,Hare Krishna, ,Hippy, ,India, ,London Fashion Week, ,New Rave, ,review, ,Sarah-Jayne Draws, ,Sequins, ,Somerset House, ,Vicky Fallon, ,Vicky Ink

Amelia’s Magazine | Ashley Isham: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Ashley Isham S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman

I brandished a ‘priority’ ticket at Ashley Isham‘s show on Saturday, shamefully secure as I stood in the queue that I was assured a top seat. As chaos descended outside, though, it soon became clear that being escorted to my seat by my arm like a debutante was looking unlikely. I rapidly gave up on any hope of resting my derriere inside, instead opting for a decent standing spot. As we waited for the show to begin, I nosily read a girl’s text messages to pass the time. ‘I’m third row, it’s RIDICULOUS!’ she exclaimed, by SMS, to pretty much everybody stored in her iPhone 5.

All photography by Matt Bramford

It was pretty easy to see what all the fuss was about as the show began. This ‘Belle du Jour‘ collection was as sophisticated and polished as any I’ve seen. Luxury fabrics in pale blue formed the opening pieces, presented as short dresses and tapered trousers. Shift dresses in pastel colours demonstrated Isham’s commercial viability, while plastic jackets with floral edges added a futuristic dimension to the collection. These appeared in electric blue and black and were my favourite pieces. Hats by House of Flora covered models faces, only revealing eyes with laser cut mask shapes filled in with netting.

Ashley Isham S/S 2014 by Ozlem Djafer

There were a couple of slightly obscure pieces: a casual grey top teamed with ill-fitting white trousers didn’t belong, but were quickly forgotten with the finale pieces – Isham’s glamorous red carpet-ready dresses. Sweetheart necklines, fishtail hems, couture worthy embellishment and embroidery and elongated trains will secure even more fashionable followers.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday September 20th, 2013 10:52 am

Categories ,Ashley Isham, ,catwalk, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Laura Hickman, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ozlem Djafer, ,Plastics, ,Red carpet, ,review, ,SS14, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Bernard Chandran: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Bernard Chandran A/W 2012 by Scott Nellis.

Normally Matt Bramford insists on covering Bernard Chandran so I was a bit of a newbie to his catwalk show, attended by such luminaries as…. Keisha Buchanan, formerly of the Sugababes. Not perhaps someone that I would have pinpointed as a fan, but she was overheard saying that this is her third Bernard show so she is no doubt better acquainted with his work than me.

Bernard Chandran AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory Keisha

Bernard Chandran A/W 2012 by Lo Parkin.

The show began with a double act – two models in white, black and shades of charcoal grey striding out to an incongruous Junglist soundtrack. Their hair was set in sleek forward facing Victory rolls and pale grey tinted eyebrows combined with bright red lips to give an elegant feel. All the emphasis was on the throat, with extravagant folding collars standing high on the neck. This look was repeated throughout the collection: appearing as a design detail on a calf length quilted coat, or as jewelled neck pieces – the main adornments for silky evening dresses.

Bernard Chandran AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Bernard Chandran A/W 2012 by Cruz.

Midnight blue satin, black velvet, delicate lacy materials, sequin embellishments – there was beauty in textures here, mainly in dark shades befitting an A/W collection. Transparent and sheer pieces in muted nude, dusky rose and chocolate tones lifted the colour palette but it was a beautiful belted coat dress that really caught my eye: it featured what looked like a spattering of metallic car body paint across the front – whitely gleaming against the black ground under bright catwalk lights.

Bernard Chandran AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Bernard Chandran A/W 2012 by Janneke de Jong.

Sparkling clutch bags echoed the heart like designs of neckpieces, and a particularly beautiful red jewelled neck piece paired with a black pants suit drew gasps from the audience. I imagine that once detached this could be worn as statement jewellery to perk up any throat in appealing style.

Bernard Chandran AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I’m not sure that Pandemonia (seated front row in lurid pink latex) will be taking much inspiration from Bernard Chandran for next season’s look, but this was an undeniably adult collection with great saleability – perfect for elegant ladies who desire a unique designer twist.

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Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday February 24th, 2012 5:37 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Bernard Chandran, ,Cruz, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Keisha Buchanan, ,Lo Parkin, ,Pandemonia, ,Scott Nellis, ,Sugababes

Amelia’s Magazine | Bernard Chandran: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Bernard Chanrdan AW 2013 Rosa and Carlotta Crepax Illustrated Moodboard
Bernard Chandran A/W 2013 Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard.

Due to a seating mix up and a late arrival no one for Amelia’s Magazine was well placed to take photos at Bernard Chandran. Perched at the mouth of the catwalk I had a great view of the models’ amazing winged eyes and some interesting cut out backs, a nod to the 90s that has been increasingly popular on the catwalks this season.

Bernard Chandran AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Bernard Chandran A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

There was a real element of sports luxe to this collection, which began with tight fitting panelled dresses in jewel colours, the lyrca stretched from the high necks into hoods and over a flat visor. Embellishments came in the form of beading and painterly washes of colour in digital prints on A-line shift dresses, billowing blouses and boxy shirts. I particularly liked the loose plaits that held together uncovered hair: a look which has been popular on many catwalks for A/W 2013.

Bernard Chandran A/W 2013 by Jihyun Park.