Amelia’s Magazine | Style Passport: An interview with fashion retail website entrepreneur Sarah Walter

Sarah Walters by Gemma Cotterell
Sarah Walter by Gemma Cotterell.

Style Passport is the brainchild of Sarah Walter, formally a fashion director at Marie Claire, now retail entrepreneur. Realised as a one stop shop for the ultimate holiday wardrobe, Style Passport champions many smaller designers and artisan makers. I caught up with Sarah to find out how she got into the internet business, how her previous career has impacted her work and what she recommends for the ultimate vacation look this season.

Style Passport Matthew Williamson silk print utility dress blue
Matthew Williamson silk print utility dress in blue.

Hi Sarah, I believe I did a short work experience stint in the fashion cupboard when you were still at Marie Claire… what drew you to working in magazines during the first part of your career?
Did you really? How did you find that experience? I too started in a cupboard in a fashion department at Vogue, it still seems to be the only way to break into the business. Why was I drawn to magazines? Well, when I started they were wildly creative with photo shoots taking up 20 pages and really extending the editors’ and photographers’ imagination. Coming from art college this merged my two great loves – art and style – so was the perfect career path for me.

Nicole Fahri by Chloe Douglass
Nicole Fahri Easter patchwork print shirt dress. Illustration by Chloe Douglass.

How did becoming a mother inspire your career swerve into retail?
I experimented in retail just before I had my first daughter and found the whole experience pretty interesting. Not only was I trying to create something interesting to wear but then I got to see if it was actually bought and worn by someone. My daughters became experts in spotting a dress or bag I had created and we all shared the same excitement. It’s pretty addictive actually. Oh, and the pay is generally much better.

Fiona paxton coral and wood necklace £175 style-passport
Fiona Paxton coral and wood necklace.

How has your experience of working on fashion editorials influenced the way that you approach retail?
Creating a story in a magazine has all the same elements as creating a window in a shop or a page on a web site. All need a good idea to start with, then great creative and copy that hooks you in. The fact that more and more editors have left magazines in recent years to move into e-commerce and retail just shows you how blurred these worlds are now, whereas 20 years ago there were distinct barriers. The internet and technology has changed and will continue to change everything.

Style Passport Belize Rajasthan Ombre sequin top charcoal
Cool Change Belize Rajasthan Ombre sequin top in charcoal.

What factors do you consider when looking for a new brand to stock on the website?
Well, we start by thinking ‘Where is she going and what does she need to take with her to ensure she has the easiest and most stylish trip possible?‘ We love colour (we do mostly think of holidays in colour, not black and white, don’t we?), print and items that are easy to fold up, so jersey features strongly and unstructured jackets too. Some brands particularly scream ‘holiday’ like Matthew Williamson and Antik Batik; you can literally imagine yourself on the beach when you see them. We have a broad price architecture too, it’s very much the Fashion Editors‘ choice, so we try to choose what you can get for a reasonable amount of money (Armor Lux bretons for example are perfect, you don’t need to buy a designer version).

Matthew Williamson multi coloured column digital blossom jersey dress by Shy Illustrations
Matthew Williamson multi coloured column digital blossom jersey dress. Illustration by Shy Illustrations.

What have been your most exciting discoveries when hunting down new labels? Are there any particular finds which stick in your mind?
I’m very excited about Visconti & du Reau gladiators which will be on the site in March. Sam and I saw them in Paris and literally dropped everything on the spot.

Matthew Williamson style-passport
Matthew Williamson hat, an exclusive collaboration with Style Passport.

Where do you source your artisanal goods from, and why are these products so exciting to you?
Artisanal goods to me have always been the holiday ‘finds’ which tell the stories of your adventures and create your personal style. They are personal and remind us of the best times in our lives. We find our artisanal items from our own travels and now increasingly, artisans approach us with their goods and we love to find out about them and bring their stories to our customers.

Tam Tam one piece noir swimsuit Style Passport
Tam Tam one piece noir swimsuit and Vida Vida embroidered leather clutch.

How do you balance your stock of expensive high end products with more affordable items?
It’s all determined by our approach to style. Items on the site are there because they are loved and we believe they are worth the money. Sometimes it’s a designer piece that will make all the difference and sometimes a trusted basic or artisanal find. To me, this combination is true style.

Matthew Williamson by Isher Dhiman
Matthew Williamson oversized digital blossom cutout t-shirt. Illustration by Isher Dhiman.

How do you decide which beauty brands to promote on Style Passport?
Again, we try to focus on brands we love which support our travel ethos. We have to have suncream and mosquito spray so our customers really can come to us and get their bag packed in one place.

Style Passport mood board 1
Style Passport mood board.

You’ve spoken of plans to expand the website to include menswear and kidswear – what else would you like to do with Style Passport in the future?
One step at a time! We would love to eventually have our own label associated with the best travel items, so let’s see what happens.

Style Passport mood board 1
Style Passport mood board.

What have been the best and hardest parts of going it alone with your own business?
The best is creating what you want in the way you want to and surrounding yourself with hugely passionate, talented people. The worst is raising money to drive forwards and getting the call at 1am when the alarm goes off in the warehouse.

Style Passport mood board
Putting it all together: Style Passport looks.

Lastly, what are the three most important things to pack: for a hot destination?
1. A scarf that keeps you relaxed on the plane, is nice enough to wear out at night, can be doubled and belted to make a skirt and of course used as a beach coverup or a hair protector…… I can go on about scarves for ever.
2. Great sunglasses. Nothing makes you feel more glamorous and in the mood like these. Plus, after a long journey they cover puffy and tired eyes.
3. Your favourite dress. Dresses are the easiest way to get dressed as most decision making is removed. For me they are the most versatile of items. Very little work is required to take the same dress from a market shop (basket, flats, headscarf) to a dinner (heels, lipstick, ear rings).
Some of my key holiday looks are included in this blog. For S/S 2013 I’d go for a Matthew Williamson blue shirt waister dress, an Indonesian sarong – always a sarong, the gladiators in lizard and neon by Visconti & du Reau and a Seafolly Goddess swimsuit which just fits and improves every body that it is put on. 

And for a winter holiday this season?
A down coat. ADD and Barbour are great. Light, warm and stylish.
Lip salve – the cold really affects your lips. Carmex is the original and best in my view and the yellow pot is very friendly.
Base layers. American Vintage cotton fitted longjohns and roll necks should be the first thing you put on after your underwear.

Thanks Sarah! It’s so interesting to hear from someone who has created a successful retail experience. Do visit Style Passport to discover more great holiday ideas.

Categories ,ADD, ,American Vintage, ,Antik Batik, ,Armor Lux, ,Barbour, ,Beauty, ,Carmex, ,Chloe Douglass, ,Cool Change, ,fashion, ,Fashion Editors, ,Fiona Paxton, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Hoilday, ,Holiday Wardrobe, ,interview, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Key holiday looks, ,Marie Claire, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Nicole Fahri, ,S/S 2013, ,Sarah Walter, ,Seafolly Goddess, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Style Passport, ,summer, ,Swimwear, ,Tam Tam, ,Vida Vida, ,Visconti & du Reau, ,vogue, ,Winter

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Amelia’s Magazine | Lako Bukia: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Lako Bukia AW 2012 by Love Amelia
Lako Bukia A/W 2012 by Love Amelia.

This season Lako Bukia went all futuristic for Broken Mirrors in shades of silver and black, a collection that was inspired by her Georgian heritage once again, and a traditional fear of looking into shattered glass. In contrast to last season’s floaty print focused offering, this saw a return to more structured tailoring and a harder line – enhanced by the styling of Claudia Behnke, which featured severe metal top knots and an extremely strong flattened black brow. This is something we’ve seen a lot of on the catwalks this season: Desperate Scousewives, you have a lot to answer to.

Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia A/W 2012 by Gemma Cotterell
Lako Bukia A/W 2012 by Gemma Cotterell.

Fabrics were predominantly silverised, in silk, leather or lame – the last being notoriously hard to cut well. I’m afraid that lame reminds me of my pre-pubescent attempts to create party wear, circa 1985, and it’s very hard to make it look like a luxury fabric.

Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia A/W 2012 by Gaarte
Lako Bukia A/W 2012 by Gaarte.

There was an element of the 70s evident in the collection – wide legged glittery pants wouldn’t look out of place in the disco – whilst skater skirts teamed with sheer panelled blouses would look more at home on the deck of the Starship Enterprise. The shoes were possibly from another world entirely – unwearable in everyday life but simply stunning: slightly winged and with heels constructed out of towering pillars of jagged edged glass.

Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Lako Bukia A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

There were some beautiful and intriguing elements to the collection, in particular some tight silver trousers and a stunning knee length dress which both featured a shattering glass emblem – the textured shards had the effect of toning down some of the overt glitz, creating a silvery sense of style. Whilst hardly practical I adored the last evening dress, which featured a stunning bodice made out of actual shattered mirror.

Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
For the finale the catwalk head was showered with confetti (in silver, yup you’ve guessed it) – which went off with a loud bang. Down at the catwalk entrance we didn’t know what had happened and it certainly caused a skipping of the heart beat and a few nervous giggles around me. There’s nothing like an unexpected fright at LFW to lighten the mood.

Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Lako Bukia AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,70s, ,A/W 2012, ,Broken Mirrors, ,Claire Jones, ,Claudia Behnke, ,Desperate Scousewives, ,disco, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Futuristic, ,Gaarte, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Georgian, ,Glitter, ,lako bukia, ,Lame, ,Love Amelia, ,review, ,Silver, ,Starship Enterprise, ,Superstition

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Amelia’s Magazine | Huishan Zhang: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink.

New twitter mini film app Vine was embraced by the more social media savvy end of the fashion crowd at London Fashion Week: the six second looping films proving perfect to give an immediate moving idea of the shows that a static picture sometimes struggles to put across. Bright catwalk lights tend to wash out un-metered image creation, so I found Vine worked best at the more inventive presentations that I attended. One such show was that put on by Central Saint Martins graduate Huishan Zhang, a Chinese born designer who has interned within the hallowed atelier of the Dior couturiers. Take a peek below:

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan-Zang-AW-2013-Illustration-by-Shy-Illustrations
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Shy Illustrations.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink.

For A/W 2013 Huishan Zhang melded Eastern and Western influences in a supremely subtle and modern way: Mondrian-esque stripes and colour blocks were merged with delicate overlays of lace and glitter panels to create 60s inspired A-line shift dresses. These shapes echoed the Chinese Mao suit that was worn by everyone in 60s China, but the sparkling addition of Swarovski sponsored panels of crystals made them dinner party desirable for now. High waist tapered trousers felt modern paired with swing back crop jackets, whilst contrasting lace appliqués and peek-a-boo pleats provided additional interest. This was a wonderfully clever collection; definitely one of my new designers to watch.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Categories ,60s, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Chinese, ,Dior, ,Dom & Ink, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Huishan Zhang, ,lace, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mao suit, ,Mondrian, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Swarovski, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Vine

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ashish: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows
Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows.

This season Ashish turned to his roots for Bollywouldn’t, a collection which married the iconography of hippy India with late 80s rave culture, both style eras that have been repeatedly plundered by successive generations – one need only think of New Rave, that short lived phenomenon of just a few years ago. However, in the inimitable hands of Ashish, these styles have been reinvented once more, in a dusty meets fluoro palette of clashing logos and decorative decals.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows
Ashish A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows.

Models wore elaborate beaded face jewellery based on traditional Indian jewellery, with the addition of the odd cut out CND logo. High crepe soled rainbow platforms riffed on Ashish‘s usual love of DM boots. Shapes were mainly slouchy, with relaxed cardigans and hoods piled on top of baggy pants. The omnipresent sequins were of course in effect, creating smiley face repeat patterns, garish paisleys or giant body hugging pink buddhas.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Vicky Ink aka Vicky Fallon
Ashish A/W 2012 by Vicky Ink aka Vicky Fallon.

A clever two fingered slogan was repeated front and back, transferring its meaning in the event. Even a rainbow tie-dye design got the intricate sequinned treatment with Ashish. Hare Krishna style influenced ochre shirts were printed with deep red slogans: worn by boys hiding in cowl necked scarves. For women the same scarves came in dusky pinks and dove grey.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Antonia Parker
Ashish A/W 2012 by Antonia Parker
Ashish A/W 2012 by Antonia Parker.

Ashish always accompanies his collections with an evocative piece of prose that describes his muse. This season ‘She travels light, but shops heavy… Some say she’s a hippie, but she denies it: her shopping chakra dictates otherwise.’ It seems that for A/W 2012 Ashish has his designer tongue wedged ever more firmly in his cheek, and, as ever, I love him for it. Predictably, there were so many pieces that I loved in this imaginative and witty collection.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish A/W 2012 by Sarah Jayne Draws
Ashish A/W 2012 by Sarah Jayne Draws.

Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Antonia Parker, ,Ashish, ,Bollywouldn’t, ,Catherine Meadows, ,catwalk, ,CND, ,DMs, ,Hare Krishna, ,Hippy, ,India, ,London Fashion Week, ,New Rave, ,review, ,Sarah-Jayne Draws, ,Sequins, ,Somerset House, ,Vicky Fallon, ,Vicky Ink

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ashley Isham: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Ashley Isham by Lo Parkin
Ashley Isham by Lo Parkin.

I nearly didn’t make the Ashley Isham show, but a chance encounter with a catwalk photographer on the tube home persuaded me to take a side trip to the My Beautiful Fashion venue in the heart of the city: Goldsmiths’ Hall is an ‘urban palazzo‘ that is every bit as opulent and beautiful as the name suggests.

Ashley Isham S/S 2013 by Sam Parr
Ashley Isham S/S 2013 by Sam Parr.

Best not to sit under one of the outlandishly sized chandeliers, I thought, as I squashed my bum into a narrow space on the front row moments before the show started: unexpectedly. No preamble, out came a lady carrying a darling little lap dog. Isham has carved out a worthy career creating glamourous dresses that can be worn to high society occasions and that is exactly what he dished up: lots of sumptuously draped frocks, cinched at the waist with a range of pretty belts; some thigh skimming, others ankle sweeping. Berry tones were joined by dirty ice, tasteful mocha and textures in the form of geometric prints inspired by Orphism, lace and chintzy florals. The latter were reminiscent of prints from the 50s but reimagined in flared columns and tulip skirts. I liked the relaxed and occasionally asymmetric rope necklines, worn with pearls and loose chignons.

Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Just when we thought it was all over Isham upped the ante by sending out the pup in arms once more, followed by a series of jewel coloured glossy silk dresses.

Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
I was seated opposite Pandemonia, who was looking as fashion forward as a blow up gimp doll can, in a zippy shade of mint with a newly demure pale sorbet yellow hair do. When the show ended it became apparent (due to my late arrival) that I’d missed out on possibly the most exciting front row gift of all time: check out that parcel! It’s like Christmas time! Well jel.

Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
All front row gifts should be wrapped.
Ashley Isham S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ashley Isham, ,Goldsmiths’ Hall, ,Lo Parkin, ,My Beautiful Fashion, ,Orphism, ,Pandemonia, ,Sam Parr

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Amelia’s Magazine | Alice Lee: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Preview

Alice Lee SS12 by Gemma Cotterell

Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Gemma Cotterell

The Vauxhall Fashion Scout ‘Ones to Watch‘ show is undoubtedly one of the highlights on the London Fashion Week calendar. It’s an opportunity for new designers to present their work, hand-picked because of their extraordinary designs, and for us fashion-hungry fans to witness the best of new talent.

For S/S 2012, design team, and in-real-life husband and wife, Lee Farmer and Alice Smith were chosen to showcase their collection. They had already received recognition for their work. In 2002, they had won the New Generation Sponsorship, and had previously received orders from Browns and Harrods. They re-launched Alice Lee as part of the VFS line up, after taking some time out from the label to focus on their family.

AW12 Sketch courtesy of Alice Lee

A/W 2012 Sketch courtesy of Alice Lee

Alice Lee is all about exceptional knitwear – a mix of intricate designs that for S/S 2012 were woven with strips of leather, in a simple palette of white, pale green, black and a splash of red. The collection was formed of modern shapes – deep cut and body con dresses, knitted trousers and varying hemlines, with a refined finish and detailing. There was an element of the futuristic to this collection, and I can remember Georgia Tackac’s review of the VFS Ones to Watch show, where she compared the Alice Lee collection to something Princess Leia would have had in her costume wardrobe.

Alice Lee SS12 by Jo Ley

Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Jo Ley

I spoke to Alice a few days before the chaos of LFW started, about inspirations, the new collection and the dominance of knitwear.

What impact did being chosen as one of Vauxhall Fashion’s Scout’s Ones to Watch last year have?
We got to do a catwalk show and got some good press then this led to orders, so in all a very good impact from being named as one of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch. From this we were chosen as one of the 5 Womenswear designers selected by Selfridges for their Bright Young Things project. This came hand in hand with an order for S/S 2012, and a window display for 2 months. This was an amazing opportunity to display the pieces in a way we wanted, and get the public to see our designs on Oxford Street, with it’s 1 million people a day passing by Selfridges.

Alice Lee coil-dress
A/W 2012 Coil Dress Fitting courtesy of Alice Lee

What have you been up to since then?
Since then we have been working on the orders we have received, which we made this time in our studio, as well as working on our window for Selfridges. We’re now working on our A/W 2012 collection.

Alice Lee sketch
A/W 2012 Dress Sketch courtesy of Alice Lee

What can we expect from your new collection?
We have been thinking about colours for winter. We do love black, but have just added a splash of colour here and there. There are some longer lengths in the dresses, and skirts. We have some outerwear with fur, faux of course as we never use real fur, or sheepskin. It’s just not our cup of tea.

Alice-Lee-By-Kris-Keys
Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Kris Keys

What were the inspirations and influences?
Many, too many to put down. A feeling from a poem by Dante. A feeling of being protected and armoured, and a continuation of the leather work combined with knitwear that we started to develop for S/S 2012.

Can you explain a little about your passion for design, and explain how you moved into fashion design.
Alice – I always loved making things and sewing as a child. I come from an ‘arty’ family, my dad is a photographer and my mom is a fashion designer, so I was inspired by them. Also I grew up from the age if 10 to 14 in a travelling theatre company touring Europe, with my dad, so I was surrounded by things and people that inspired and nurtured my creativity.

Alice Lee sketch dress
Alice Lee A/W 2012 Dress Sketch

Can you tell me a little about the process of your designs – perhaps a little about the materials and techniques that are used?
Well we both work through the ideas together, but Lee is more of the sketcher and I’m more of the knitter. So I knit swatches and Lee sketches. Then as are doing this we try shapes out on the mannequin, see what works then we usually go from that stage in to knitting the garment. At the moment we are using all natural yarns for winter, mostly wool and then hand threaded and stitched with leather stripes. A very time consuming process but we think it’s worth it. All pieces are hand made and fully fashioned.

You put the label on hold for a while to focus on family. How are you finding the balance with working now, especially with the lead up to LFW?
Well we have two children, so it is quite a juggling act. They are at nursery and school now so we have time to work. But they do come to the studio sometimes.

Can you explain why knitwear is such an integral part of your label?
It just kind of happened that way. I did my degree and MA in fashion knitwear. Also it’s probably a lot to do with making our own fabric from a cone of yarn and being able to knit it in to any shape and form we want to. Also the embellishment is very prominent. It’s very 3D, from the stitches to the end shape of the garment. We like to make something truly our own and with knitwear you can do.

Alice Lee will be showing their new A/W 2012 collection on Saturday 18th February at 14.45 at Somerset House, as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout at Freemasons Hall, 60 Great Queen Street, WC2B 5AZ.

Categories ,Alice Lee, ,AW12, ,Bright Young Things, ,Faux Fur, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Georgia Tackacs, ,Jo Ley, ,knitwear, ,Kris Keys, ,leather, ,Ones To Watch, ,Selfridges, ,SS12, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Designer Joseph Turvey – Part 2


Joseph Turvey S/S 2013 by Gemma Cotterell

Joe’s MA collection: vibrant orange and magenta lace with transparent panels and translucent trenches was a massive hit. Fake Tokyo completely sold out and they’re backing him again this season, amongst many others. I sense that Joe is pretty busy minded. He’s conquering Asia step-by-step. He opened Shanghai Fashion Week with said MA collection, an experience he’ll never forget. ‘The catwalk was MASSIVE!’ he tells me, ‘it was like a Madonna tour!’

Joseph Turvey MA collection

We take a look through the current Spring/Summer collection – a range of dazzling neon hues married with white t-shirts and his synonymous illustrative portraits. Joe demonstrates the heat-sensitive technique he’s pioneered for spring/summer, so the model’s face becomes clear when worn. I ask if the faces we’re now so familiar with are based on anyone in particular. ‘Not really,’ he says, ‘I merge a few faces together. A bit like Frankenstein’, he laughs. Joe tells me that people always ask the story behind his personal interpretations and influences on his collections. ‘People always look for hidden meanings,’ he says. ‘Maybe I should be more like Taylor Swift and feature exes.’

What else is in the pipeline? ‘I really like collaborations,’ he says, ‘I like the juxtaposition of things.’ Joe’s currently collaborating with Hush Puppies, pioneer of the men’s comfort shoe but currently undergoing a massive relaunch under the creative direction of Jack Hemingway. He’s excited to work with established brands and put his stamp on menswear staples.

I ask how S/S 2014 is going. ‘I’ve nearly finished!’ he says, excitedly. I ask what we might expect. ‘It’s very colourful,’ he tells me, careful not to reveal too much. ‘There’s a central figure, again, and it’s very illustrative.’ He’s obsessed with the aesthetics of fabrics and innovative textures and his ethos is to always move things forward: lace, vinyl-peaked caps, laser-cut florals; the contrast of gloss spots on a black bomber. Joe works closely with acclaimed London textile company Insley & Nash in his constant endeavours to advance fashion techniques.


Joseph Turvey S/S 2013 by Karina Järv

I take a few photographs of both collections as we chat about everything else. What other brands does he admire? Baartmans and Siegel (who are ‘amazing’) and close pal Domingo Rodriguez are high on his list, as is Christopher Kane, who manages to make clothes ‘sellable but with his stamp on it.’

What advice would Joe give to current graduates looking to follow in his footsteps? ‘The best thing I did was the MA,’ he declares. With Savile Row tutoring and free reign on his future, Joe developed his unique approach we’ve become so quickly familiar with. ‘I’d say – don’t rush in to anything. I spent a lot of money doing it, but it really helped me focus. It’s about developing your skills. Make it exactly what you want it to be.’

Categories ,Asia, ,beyonce, ,Fake Tokyo, ,fashion, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,interview, ,Joseph Turvey, ,Karina Jarv, ,lace, ,ma, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Shanghai Fashion Week, ,SS13

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Amelia’s Magazine | What Does Colour Mean To You? Submit Your Story For A Chance To Make A Film And Win £250

This is Orange by Sarah Edmonds
This is Orange by Sarah Edmonds.

A recent chat with friends led to a discussion about what colour we intrinsically ‘were’. Fascinatingly we all agreed on the colours that came to mind, as if subconsciously they were obvious to us all. Colour is absolutely intrinsic to the way we feel, the way we look and the way we act. And for illustrators and artists it plays an enormous part in the creation of work. Of course many of us see colours differently (a huge amount of men, for instance, suffer some form of colour blindness) and colours also mean different things to different people. Why, for instance, do I love bright red and green, but dislike orange brown? I find it absolutely fascinating.

Now a major lifestyle brand is planning to collect stories of how people have been positively impacted by colour. They would like to know what your relationship is with a particular colour, what three words you would associate with it, and what kind of details from your life, your culture and your home have played a part in your opinion of that colour. To get involved you can submit your story as words, photography and video: the most compelling one will be filmed by leading film makers Blair & Oliver and edited into a short documentary about how colour has affected lives. If you submit the best story you’ll win £250.

What better way to get you inspired than a series of illustrations exploring what colour means to some of my contributors. To take part in this open callout send your stories to renewalstories@redant.com along with your contact details. The deadline for submission is 1st March 2013.

Green-by-CissyHu
Green by Cissy Hu. When I see green, my eyelashes will become a forest. The creatures of imagination will come out and play. Everything goes lively above the lake of heart (the eyes).

The Colour Pink by Christine Charnock
The Colour Pink by Christine Charnock. The colour pink has so many beautiful and versatile shades – from vibrant and bold, to calming and subdued. In the natural world, the colour pink is present in many fascinating forms. The sky of a sunset, flora and fauna, and the flamingo bird are particularly memorable and beautiful examples. Pink always seems to create a positive, uplifting and cheerful vibe, and this is one of the reasons why I adore this colour.

green is such a relaxing colour by Joanna Boyle
Green is such a relaxing colour by Joanna Boyle. My favourite time of year is spring time, when everything starts to get green after months of rain and cold. I associate the colour green with feeling calm and refreshed. As a result I love visiting green houses and like to keep lots of plants in my flat!

Turquoise Planet by Laura Redburn
Turquoise Planet by Laura Redburn. I absolutely love all colours, and colour is my world. Turquoise is my favourite, though. It both gives me energy and keeps me calm. I like to always have this colour around me because it also helps me feel creative but not overwhelmed. I feel as if there’s something magical about it that other colours don’t possess. To me it’s representative of earth and life.

Yellow Portrait of Silvia Pezzati by Rosa Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard
Yellow Portrait of Silvia Pezzati by Rosa Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard. My friend Silvia is the ‘yellowest’ person I know. Yellow is a very happy colour, I’ve always associated it with sunshine, cheerfulness and intellectual creativity. She is enthusiastic about everything, warm, bright and she actually smiles sun!

Green by Gemma Hampton
Green by Gemma Hampton. Green is my favourite colour. To me, it represents growth and freedom. As a keen gardener, I am forever fascinated when planting a seed and watching it spring into life, growing stronger and healthier by the day. I enjoy studying this process of development and feel a deep sense of satisfaction in the knowledge that I am nurturing this new life. 

Red by Gemma Cotterell
Red by Gemma Cotterell. I chose to illustrate red shown as a ‘mothers love’ – to me the colour projects power, warmth, love, strength, passion, and permanence. The beating heart is life itself, protected unconditionally by the flowering cactus, which symbolises maternal love.

Categories ,Blair & Oliver, ,Christine Charnock, ,Cissy Hu, ,colour, ,Colour blindness, ,competition, ,film, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Gemma Hampton, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Joanna Boyle, ,Laura Redburn, ,Open Callout, ,Rosa Crepax, ,Sarah Edmonds, ,Silvia Pezzati

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Amelia’s Magazine | Lana Del Rey: Blue Jeans remixed by Kris Menace

Lana Del Rey by Jo Ley
Lana Del Rey by Jo Ley.

I am sure I should know more about Lana Del Rey than I do but the fact is, beyond the basic concept that she’s had an awful lot of hype this is one pop vixen who has thus far stayed totally off my radar. But not any more: not since I was sent a link to the remix of her tune Blue Jeans by Kris Menace, a music maestro who has worked with the likes of Kylie, Robbie Williams and Depeche Mode.

Lana Del Rey by Kris Keys
Lana Del Rey by Kris Keys.

Like Lana del Rey, producer Kris Menace uses a pseudonym – doesn’t sound quite so mysterious and glam when you say that good old Christophe Hoeffel has worked on a remix with Elizabeth Woolridge Grant does it? Kris Menace runs two of his own record labels, a radio station and in the way of superstar DJs he travels around the world to play at all the top nightclubs. Where does he find the time?! Anyway, enjoy. This remix is utterly addictive, I warn you.

Lana Del Rey by Rukmunal Hakim
Lana Del Rey by Rukmunal Hakim.

Lana del Rey by Janneke de Jong
Lana Del Rey by Janneke de Jong.

Lana Del Rey by Gemma Cotterell
Lana Del Rey by Gemma Cotterell.

Lana Del Rey by Deborah Moon
Lana Del Rey by Deborah Moon.

Kris Menace has a new album out in April: Electric Horizon follows on from 2009′s Idiosyncrasies, with a blend of magical melodies and hypnotic trance-like tunes that belie his Germanic roots. The first single Falling Star came out on March 5th 2012. Lana Del Rey releases her version of Blue Jeans on April 8th.

Categories ,Blue Jeans, ,Christophe Hoeffel, ,Deborah Moon, ,Depeche Mode, ,dj, ,Electric Horizon, ,Elizabeth Woolridge Grant, ,Falling Star, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Idiosyncrasies, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Jo Ley, ,Kris Keys, ,Kris Menace, ,Kyle, ,Lana Del Rey, ,Matt Nevin, ,Producer, ,Radio Station, ,Record Label, ,Remix, ,Robbie Williams, ,Rukmunal Hakim

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Amelia’s Magazine | Film Review: The Place Beyond the Pines


The Place Beyond the Pines by Krister Selin

Hollywood heartthrobs Ryan Gosling and Bradley Cooper star alongside Eva Mendes and Ray Liotta in new action thriller The Place Beyond the Pines.


Ryan Gosling by Michael Arnold

I don’t mind admitting I’m a bit out of my depth here: regular film reviews at Amelia’s Magazine tend to be fashion, art or music based, but I was invited along to see a preview of this flick after reviewing the glorious Diana Vreeland documentary, so I thought – oh, why not. What I didn’t bank on was the film’s dramatic plot and radical twists and now I’m a totally stuck. But I’ll give it a go anyway. I am desperate to shout ‘AND THEN THIS HAPPENS’ but I’ll do my best not to as this is one of those films where the surprises make it enjoyable.


Ryan Gosling, Eva Mendes and Bradley Cooper by youdesignme

Gosling plays heartthrob Handsome Luke, not dissimilar to other characters he’s portrayed: he doesn’t say a great deal, instead spending the majority of the film perfecting his vacant stare and sideways smirk; the latter will no doubt have its own Hollywood star before Gosling does. The film opens with him smoking in a grotty dressing room and then we follow him into a carnival tent, where he’s performing a terrifying stunt on a motorbike that involves riding around a huge metal sphere with two other performers. Eva Mendes shows up shortly afterwards as Romina, looking ridiculously hot as always. It’s pretty clear from their short exchange and Gosling’s glad eye that they’ve copped off recently. Cut to a year later and, you guessed it, Romina is with Handsome Luke’s child. Oh, those pesky carnival hunks and their maverick approach to contraception. Why I oughta.


The Places Beyond the Pines by Gemma Cotterell

Unfortunately in Gosling’s absence, Mendes has shacked up with another hunk, but this time a more suitable, stable one. Gosling is determined to win her and his son back, though, and with the help of Ben Mendelsohn‘s character Jack, decides that the best way to do this is to start robbing banks. He enters various establishments in his motorcycle helmet, screaming expletives at workers and ordering them to stuff his rucksack with dollar bills. Each time the process becomes more sinister and it doesn’t take a genius to work out that this isn’t going to end well.


Bradley Cooper by Karina Järv

Bradley Cooper, in stark contrast, plays , a mature and sensible cop with a wife and kid and who seems to have it all together until a run-in with Handsome Luke ends badly and Cooper is hospitalised. Returning to work, he uncovers major corruption at his local cop shop and makes it his mission to overturn it. Cue lots of shouting and fists slamming on tables. Gripping stuff.


Ryan Gosling, Eva Mendes and Bradley Cooper by Natasha David

The film jumps fifteen years into the future from the 1990s to the present day and explores the relationship between father and son, documenting the effect that each of the main character’s lives has had on their children. The pace slows down a little in the absence of daredevil motorcycle riding, punch-ups and gun fights, but the story is worth following.


Eva Mendes by youdesignme

Ryan Gosling is hotter than I’ve ever seen him (and I’ve watched a lot of his movies – often alone) and Bradley Cooper gives it his all as the charming, troubled cop-cum-chief. Eva Mendes dominates whenever she’s on screen, and I have decided that I actually quite fancy her and am less jealous that this film brought Mendes and Gosling together and I think they will have beautiful children. It’s not a short film, though, and with the dramatic twists the film is split into different parts; you’ll leave the cinema thinking you’ve watched three movies. The ending is a tiny bit disappointing with Hollywood predictability, but by that point I don’t think I could have handled any more drama. Police corruption, murder, family ties and carnival contraception are all explored. It’s a dramatic thriller that even the most cynical of movie-goers will like, if only to enjoy the good looks of the three billed stars. I’ll certainly give it another watch.


Bradley Cooper by Michael Arnold

The Place Beyond the Pines is released in cinemas on April 12.

Categories ,Ben Mendelsohn, ,Bradley Cooper, ,Carnival, ,cinema, ,Eva Mendes, ,film, ,Focus Features, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Handsome Luke, ,illustration, ,Karina Jarv, ,Krister Selin, ,Matt Bramford, ,Michael Arnold, ,motorcycles, ,movie, ,Natasha David, ,Ray Liotta, ,review, ,Romina, ,Ryan Gosling, ,The Place Beyond the Pines, ,youdesignme

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