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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Ones to Watch Preview

Nova Chiu S/S 2012 by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu S/S 2012 by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu’s creations look like they’ve leapt straight off the pages of ancient fairytales. Strong, architecturally inspired silhouettes burst with colour, texture, beads and print. Her LCF graduate collection was a case of Art reflecting reality, as Nova drew inspiration from her birthplace, the Yunnan province of China, also known as the ‘mystical, earthly paradise’ that is Shangri-La. The aptly named Shangri-Ladida collection mixed traditional Chinese and contemporary dressmaking methods, winning the prestigious Collection of The Year award and creating a buzz of interest around what the designer will do next.

Nova Chiu by Cassandra Mayers

All photography courtesy of Nova Chiu

Chiu will be starting as a brand-new designer this London Fashion Week, but that doesn’t mean she’s new to fashion. Nova has worked for big-name designers such as Anna Sui, Richard Nicoll, and Matthew Williamson, who are all known for their use of colour, texture and shape.

Nova Chiu by Abi Hall

Nova Chiu by Abi Hall

For her graduate collection, Nova Chui drew inspiration from China for more reasons than it being her birthplace. Feeling that although China produces most of the clothes sold around the world, not much is known about traditional and contemporary Chinese fashion. Nova decided she wanted to unveil unknown Chinese culture through her work, mixing traditional and contemporary techniques together in a collection fit for a modern-day princess.

Nova Chiu by Dark Lens

Nova’s background in Surface Textiles is evident in her choice of modern and traditional prints, embellishments, and fabrics. I love her use of different textiles and creativity with red and yellow faux fur, which she embroidered into or pressed prints onto. Not many people could whip up a traditional Chinese ‘ink and wash’ painting method and place it on cotton and nylon to such a fresh effect. Jade and wooden beads poke through faux fur and run along edges as decoration. Sequins and different types of bells were also embedded in the fabric, meaning a girl wearing Nova Chiu will most definitely be seen and heard.

Nova Chiu by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu by Dana Bocai

The beauty of a graduate collection, and Nova’s in particular, is that burst of energy from the pages of a student sketchbook into a catwalk collection. With her sketchbook lovingly displayed on her website, visitors get a sneak peak at the work that went into her attention-grabbing graduate collection. The illustrator in me loves the detailed, feminine and surreal drawings Nova creates. This designer spends a lot of time illustrating.

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Cassandra Mayers

This London Fashion Week, I truly cannot wait to see what Nova has in store. Will it be a development of the graduate collection or a complete change? I think we can predict more fascinating displays of her expertise and playfulness with surface textiles. I know I want to see more of her beaded and embellished faux fur; seeing shimmering stones poking out from candy-coloured fur reminds me of some type of fairytale animal. Whatever colour, inspiration, shape or customer she chooses to create for, I’m sure this London Fashion Week will be heaven on earth for Nova Chiu.

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu will be debuting her A/W 2012 collection this London Fashion Week on Friday the 17th of February at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones to Watch show

Written by Alia Gargum on Friday February 17th, 2012 9:28 am

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Abi Hall, ,Alia Gargum, ,Anna Sui, ,China, ,colour, ,Dana Bocai, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Faux Fur, ,Jo Ley, ,london, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Nova Chiu, ,Ones To Watch, ,Richard Nicholl, ,Shangri-Ladida, ,surface design, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010: Streetstyle: Womenswear

NB: At Amelia’s Magazine, cheap we do not promote real fur of any kind. We hope all of these looks use only faux fur, remedy but there are still some people who think it’s acceptable. It’s the 21st century, and it really isn’t. Please don’t wear fur.

Written by Matt Bramford on Sunday February 21st, 2010 8:52 pm

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Bows, ,Faux Fur, ,Legs, ,London Fashion Week, ,Street Style, ,Tartan

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: KTZ (by Matt)

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Gabby Young at Selfridges, physician illustrated by Sam Parr

The ‘Supermarket Sarah’ pop-up shop opened last month in Selfridges stationery department, viagra 60mg I attended Friday’s opening night to check it out. Press, pharmacy designers and shoppers celebrated the opening with Campari cocktails whilst enjoying an energetic acoustic set from Gabby Young.

Back in December 2009 I visited Poke Design Studios at The Biscuit Factory for Supermarket Sarah’s Christmas Extravaganza, on behalf of Amelia’s. A year on and Sarah has had wide press coverage, and has celebrity followers such as; Lily Allen, Lindsay Lohan, Tinie Tempah and La Roux. ‘Supermarket’ Sarah Bagner seems, however, unphased by all the attention and continues to do what she does best; sourcing an eclectic mix of quirky vintage finds and indie crafts, and displaying her discoveries in an inspiring and creative way. Starting out in her home in Portobello, Sarah would beautifully arrange her own walls with items to buy and serve customers tea and cakes. The launch of her website expanded her work outside of her living room and has allowed her to exhibit in a variety of locations. Using the website, customers can browse through the items displayed on real walls as part of styled stories.

Illustration by Madi Illustrates

The retro-inspired Selfridges store layout holds shelves of vintage china trinkets, playful plastic jewellery and quirky gifts and accessories, all organized into the walls four sections; Super Stuff, New Designers, Vintage and Gallery where Sarah presents a designer she admires. Currently the Gallery space presents the work of Eley Kishimoto. The collection of printed accessories include; iPhone covers, textiles, limited edition screen printed books, and even a skateboard.

Sarah’s hand-picked selection of designers are given the opportunity to have items displayed in the Supermarket-style ‘gallery’. Carefully thought out curation and styling mean each piece compliments each other, contributing to the personal nature of the ‘Supermarket Sarah’ shopping experience. It was great to see the interactivity at play between customer and product; this interactivity is also achieved on the Supermarket Sarah online platform.

Illustration by Danni Bradford

My favourite pieces included; cross stitch badges from Ma Magasin, Mell Elliot’s Lady Gaga paper doll and Strawberry Creme Nouveau‘s rubber moulded biscuit brooches. John Booth’s eccentric bag charms, Nick White fake tattoos, Katy Leigh‘s painted egg cups, and YCN‘s ‘Light up your mood’ light switch stickers, all also deserve a mention. And other great designers involved include Tatty Devine, Patternity, Donna Wilson, Lynn Hatzius, Swedish Blonde Design and Rina Donnersmarck.

Bringing a sense of Portobello Market to London’s central shopping location. ‘Supermarket Sarah’ at Selfridges gives tourists a sense of what the London vintage and craft scene is all about. Congratulations to all involved!

Gabby Young at Selfridges, approved illustrated by Sam Parr

The ‘Supermarket Sarah’ pop-up shop opened last month in Selfridges stationery department, information pills I attended Friday’s opening night to check it out. Press, designers and shoppers celebrated the opening with Campari cocktails whilst enjoying an energetic acoustic set from Gabby Young.

Illustration by Madi Illustrates

Illustration by Danni Bradford

All photographs by Ester Kneen

Illustration by Jo Cheung

So after a rollercoaster six days, clinic Menswear Day and London Fashion Week drew to a close with hip-store Kokon To Zai’s label, KTZ, and what would be my final show of this season. I absolutely loved what they did last season, and I couldn’t wait to see what they’d come up with next.

All photography by Matt Bramford

A heavily policed front row meant me and illustrator Gareth took seats on the second, but I managed to get on the end so that my pictures would make it look like I was Frowing all along. I was bloody exhausted and feeling very sorry for myself, and I couldn’t help but wish that they’d just get on with it and stop papping people wearing pig masks. My legs wobbled and I struggled to keep my eyes open, but when the music started and the first look appeared, I quickly forgot my woes.

Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

Illustration by Thomas Leadbetter

Memphis-inspired fashion? I thought I’d died and gone to heaven. A pumpin’ soundtrack blasted from the PA system as gorgeous models (more women than men, but who cares?) sashayed up and down the length of the BFC tent. Stripes were a plenty on figure-hugging dresses with sweetheart necklines that feature extra flaps in that Pop Art/Memphis splatter pattern. Vibrant primary colours made black dresses playful: such a sophisticated, considered collection expertly styled by wonder-styilst Anna Trevelyan.

A whole load of other influences filtered into this power collection – the womenswear referenced power dressing from the 1980s (think Dynasty) and Mondrian’s prints; the menswear also digging up the eighties with (faux!) fur lapels and broad shoulders.

Illustration by Abby Wright

I have to admit, I did prefer the womenswear – it was far more wearable for fashion-forward ladies and it oozed sex appeal with dresses cut above the knee and details in all the right places to emphasise the curves. The menswear featured striped balaclavas topped with pom-poms, acrylic brooches which referenced the womenswear, over-sized imposing puffa jackets and graphic-print trousers. But it’ll be the womenswear that cements Kokontozai’s place as one of London’s hottest design duos.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Huge orb-like creations were worn on wrists, picking out patterns from lapels. And, oh, the cuts! Dynamic pieces of fabric were layered onto classic tailored pieces to give them a seriously sexy aesthetic. This was a collection that was playful but sophisticated at the same – a really difficult challenge to pull off.

Illustration by Valerie Pezeron

I loved EVERYTHING about it. I can’t put it into words, so just have a look at the pictures. Oh, and read Amelia’s more comprehensive and articulate review here!

You can see more from Jo Cheung, June Chanpoomidole, Abby Wright and Lesley Barnes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday March 15th, 2011 5:29 pm

Categories ,Abby Wright, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Anna Trevelyan, ,BFC, ,Dynasty, ,Faux Fur, ,Jo Cheung, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Kokon To Zai, ,KTZ, ,Lesley Barnes, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Memphis, ,menswear, ,Mondrian, ,Pop Art, ,Primary, ,Somerset House, ,Thomas Leadbetter, ,Valerie Pezeron

Amelia’s Magazine | Alice Lee: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Preview

Alice Lee SS12 by Gemma Cotterell

Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Gemma Cotterell

The Vauxhall Fashion Scout ‘Ones to Watch‘ show is undoubtedly one of the highlights on the London Fashion Week calendar. It’s an opportunity for new designers to present their work, hand-picked because of their extraordinary designs, and for us fashion-hungry fans to witness the best of new talent.

For S/S 2012, design team, and in-real-life husband and wife, Lee Farmer and Alice Smith were chosen to showcase their collection. They had already received recognition for their work. In 2002, they had won the New Generation Sponsorship, and had previously received orders from Browns and Harrods. They re-launched Alice Lee as part of the VFS line up, after taking some time out from the label to focus on their family.

AW12 Sketch courtesy of Alice Lee

A/W 2012 Sketch courtesy of Alice Lee

Alice Lee is all about exceptional knitwear – a mix of intricate designs that for S/S 2012 were woven with strips of leather, in a simple palette of white, pale green, black and a splash of red. The collection was formed of modern shapes – deep cut and body con dresses, knitted trousers and varying hemlines, with a refined finish and detailing. There was an element of the futuristic to this collection, and I can remember Georgia Tackac’s review of the VFS ‘Ones to Watch‘ show, where she compared the Alice Lee collection to something Princess Leia would have had in her costume wardrobe.

Alice Lee SS12 by Jo Ley

Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Jo Ley

I spoke to Alice a few days before the chaos of LFW started, about inspirations, the new collection and the dominance of knitwear.

What impact did being chosen as one of Vauxhall Fashion’s Scout’s ‘Ones to Watch‘ last year have?
We got to do a catwalk show and got some good press then this led to orders, so in all a very good impact from being named as one of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch. From this we were chosen as one of the 5 Womenswear designers selected by Selfridges for their Bright Young Things project. This came hand in hand with an order for S/S 2012, and a window display for 2 months. This was an amazing opportunity to display the pieces in a way we wanted, and get the public to see our designs on Oxford Street, with it’s 1 million people a day passing by Selfridges.

Alice Lee coil-dress
A/W 2012 Coil Dress Fitting courtesy of Alice Lee

What have you been up to since then?
Since then we have been working on the orders we have received, which we made this time in our studio, as well as working on our window for Selfridges. We’re now working on our A/W 2012 collection.

Alice Lee sketch
A/W 2012 Dress Sketch courtesy of Alice Lee

What can we expect from your new collection?
We have been thinking about colours for winter. We do love black, but have just added a splash of colour here and there. There are some longer lengths in the dresses, and skirts. We have some outerwear with fur, faux of course as we never use real fur, or sheepskin. It’s just not our cup of tea.

Alice-Lee-By-Kris-Keys
Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Kris Keys

What were the inspirations and influences?
Many, too many to put down. A feeling from a poem by Dante. A feeling of being protected and armoured, and a continuation of the leather work combined with knitwear that we started to develop for S/S 2012.

Can you explain a little about your passion for design, and explain how you moved into fashion design.
Alice – I always loved making things and sewing as a child. I come from an ‘arty’ family, my dad is a photographer and my mom is a fashion designer, so I was inspired by them. Also I grew up from the age if 10 to 14 in a travelling theatre company touring Europe, with my dad, so I was surrounded by things and people that inspired and nurtured my creativity.

Alice Lee sketch dress
Alice Lee A/W 2012 Dress Sketch

Can you tell me a little about the process of your designs – perhaps a little about the materials and techniques that are used?
Well we both work through the ideas together, but Lee is more of the sketcher and I’m more of the knitter. So I knit swatches and Lee sketches. Then as are doing this we try shapes out on the mannequin, see what works then we usually go from that stage in to knitting the garment. At the moment we are using all natural yarns for winter, mostly wool and then hand threaded and stitched with leather stripes. A very time consuming process but we think it’s worth it. All pieces are hand made and fully fashioned.

You put the label on hold for a while to focus on family. How are you finding the balance with working now, especially with the lead up to LFW?
Well we have two children, so it is quite a juggling act. They are at nursery and school now so we have time to work. But they do come to the studio sometimes.

Can you explain why knitwear is such an integral part of your label?
It just kind of happened that way. I did my degree and MA in fashion knitwear. Also it’s probably a lot to do with making our own fabric from a cone of yarn and being able to knit it in to any shape and form we want to. Also the embellishment is very prominent. It’s very 3D, from the stitches to the end shape of the garment. We like to make something truly our own and with knitwear you can do.

Alice Lee will be showing their new A/W 2012 collection on Saturday 18th February at 14.45 at Somerset House, as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout at Freemasons Hall, 60 Great Queen Street, WC2B 5AZ.

Written by Miranda Williams on Friday February 17th, 2012 11:09 am

Categories ,Alice Lee, ,AW12, ,Bright Young Things, ,Faux Fur, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Georgia Tackacs, ,Jo Ley, ,knitwear, ,Kris Keys, ,leather, ,Ones To Watch, ,Selfridges, ,SS12, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Alice Lee: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Alice-Lee-by-Claire-Kearns-LFW-AW12

Alice Lee by Claire Kearns

I had been emailing back and forth with Alice Smith a few days before the Alice Lee A/W 2012 show, trying to get a preview finished before London Fashion Week began. As a huge knitwear fan, Alice Lee is one of the names that I get excited about – a must-see show for me on the Vauxhall Fashion Scout schedule. With the preview live, all I had to do now was turn up for the show, and enjoy.

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

All photography by Amelia Gregory

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

So it was to my great frustration that 5 minutes before the show began I found myself stuck in traffic: I had an awful sinking feeling that I wasn’t going to be able to review the show, but after racing into the grand salon room at the Freemasons’ Hall I found that I wasn’t too late, and that although the music had started, the first look was not yet out. Phew.

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

And for me, it was a good start. An off white knitted cape, with a super cosy roll neck, split right from the top and paired with dark cream knitted leggings. For S/S 2012, the collection was made up of similar cream and off white hues, in modern body con dress shapes, so it was great to see a change in shapes they were producing. The second two looks were also cream coloured, the first of which was made up from a knitted jacket with leather and faux-fur details, which I will lust after for a little while. The intricate weave of the jacket showed a great attention to detail, and helped to show off the skills of husband and wife team, Lee Farmer and Alice Smith respectively.

Alice-Lee-by-Catherine-Meadows-LFW-AW2012

Alice Lee by Catherine Meadows

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

Another colour that Alice Lee like to work with is black – which is always key for an A/W collection, but they didn’t play it completely safe, and brought in flashes of bright red and cobalt blue. Blue was used as an accent or detail to lift black outfits. It worked as a contrast line to the neckline of a black knitted dress, but was better as a fun detail to longer sleeves of a lovely black roll neck jumper, which also had strips of the blue run through the chest. A bright red knitter jumper and asymmetric skirt came in the middle of the show, reminiscent of the pop of red that they also used for S/S 2012.

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

Alice-Lee-by-Rosa-and-Carlotta-Crepax-LFW-AW12

Alice Lee by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax

Most of the collection was made up from dresses and knitwear separates, which is what Alice Lee do very well. They also do layering really well, and the middle outfits had knitted coloured sleeves poking out from the bottom of knitted jumpers and dresses. This wrapping up effect was also channelled in the model’s hair styling – which was wrapped fully around the models face, only exposing the mouth. The accents of colour in the clothing were also mimicked in the hair, which had strands of blue and red attached into it. I’m not sure how the models managed to walk in reasonably straight lines with limited sight, especially in those high wedge heels, so well done to them.

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

The last look was finished with a striking head decoration, a black, white and red rose head piece that came down all the way over the face. Some of the dresses were worn with woven coils or tubes around the shoulders and neck, that were stitched with leather, and it was eccentric additions like these that kept the knitwear collection modern. It also gave a nod to the futuristic influence that we had seen in the S/S 2012 collection, but this time in a much more earthy and autumnal colour palette.

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

This collection may not have broken any fashion boundaries, but it did show what Alice Lee do best – and that is extremely well crafted knitwear. Alice Smith had told me that one of the influences behind the collection was to give a feeling of being protected and armoured, and these designs live up to that. They are perfect for wrapping yourself up in this winter, and with the edge of leather work woven through the intricate knits, thoroughly modern.

Written by Miranda Williams on Tuesday February 21st, 2012 8:34 pm

Categories ,Alice Lee, ,Alice Smith, ,Catherine Meadows, ,Claire Kearns, ,Dante, ,Faux Fur, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,knitwear, ,leather, ,Lee Farmer, ,London Fashion Week A/W 2012, ,Ones To Watch, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,VFS

Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Ones to Watch Preview

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