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Amelia’s Magazine | Fred Butler: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Presentation Review

Fred Butler AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Fred Butler AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I love Fred Butler. She has been one of my favourite accessories and props designers for a few years now and apart from what she makes I also adore the fascinating and playful way in which she dresses as well as the way she expresses herself in interviews, which reveals a really quite special person indeed. I had seen her props pop up here and there in magazines, like in Amelia’s Magazine Issue 7 for which she made a Noah’s Ark shaped paper hat – in fact Amelia Gregory was one of the first to commission props from Fred. But I think a story I saw in i-D’s The Agyness Deyn Issue from May 2008, titled ‘Attitude’, featuring an inflatable rockets bra by Fred among other striking props, was what made me an official fan.

Fred Butler AW 2012 Charli XCX photo by Maria Papadimitriou

While queueing to see Fred’s live presentation of her A/W 2012 collection at The Portico Rooms in Somerset House on the 20th of February I was extra happy because – apart from the obvious reason – my young friend and budding stylist Isabella Sumner of Secret Danger Sister was texting me from backstage. Isabella became Kim Howells’ assistant for this London Fashion Week season after I forwarded to her a post by Kim I saw on Facebook asking for help! Kim has styled numerous Fred Butler presentations, films and lookbooks. Fred’s presentation took the form of a mini catwalk show which repeated itself over and over to a different audience each time. And there was quite a crowd to get through. During the four times in and out from the Portico Rooms – I saw the show twice – there were queues extending all the way to and down the stairs leading to the ground level of Somerset House. In those queues I spotted an array of some of the coolest, cutting edge creatives around, like Piers Atkinson, Bishi, Alùn Davies and Diane Pernet and filmmaker Konstantinos Menelaou from ASVOF, to name a few, all of whom of course love Fred’s original work.

Fred Butler AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 9

Fred Butler AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Refreshingly the show opened with pop singer Charli XCX singing her catchy song ‘I’ll Never Know’ live with a band. Fred Butler, who’s twitter feed is full of #thismorningimlisteningto and other music related tweets, has a special relationship with music. She often DJs, she has made props for musicians such as Patrick Wolf, Nicki Minaj, Beth Ditto, La Roux AND Lady Gaga and, according to her, looking at the way musicians were dressed on album covers when she was little has been very inspiring. So it seems entirely natural that this season Fred, enabled by Red Bull Catwalk Studio, collaborated with Charlie XCX on a bespoke soundtrack for the collection. In general I think that the way Fred uses different art forms to enhance and show her work works incredibly well – for example she has made beautiful fashion films of her previous collections with talented young directors such as Zaiba Jabbar and Elisha Smith-Leverock.

Fred Butler AW 2012 by Nicola Ellen

Fred Butler AW 2012 by Nicola Ellen

Fred Butler AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Fred Butler 2012 by Catherine Meadows

Fred Butler 2012 by Catherine Meadows

Fred Butler AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Another notable and interesting thing about Fred Butler’s collections is the way she titles them using combined, long and sometimes made up words and phrases that seem to describe an other worldly thing or process in exactly the same intricate and imaginative way her pieces are made. The title of this collection was Tank Top-Ranking, Tong-Tied and Twisted. Her S/S 2012 collection was called Sonic Sinuate Supertemporal Sequestador and a 2011 collection went under the name of Incandescent Meta-morph-incessant.

Fred Butler AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Fred Butler AW 2012 LFW by Deborah Moon

Fred Butler AW 2012 LFW by Deborah Moon

Fred Butler AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Following her S/S 2012 collection which featured more round shapes, frills and quite a bit of fabric, I was personally happy that in this collection Fred returned to origami folding techniques and body props with more clear cut, geometric shapes. This time I thought that the four colour goddesses that stepped out looked impeccable from head to toe. Each model had a monochrome base formed by beautiful knitted undergarments – a collaboration with EDE who specialise in English produced hand knits – and a matching colour wig. Placed on top of that base were a quilted, high collar gilet, origami obi belts, a marshmallow hued harness with twisted tubes, more belts and headbands out of twisted strings and more origami inspired, sculptural body pieces. The outfits were completed by colour matching shoes designed in collaboration with Rosy Nicholas. According to the press release there was a sushi related theme under all of this, especially in relation to the colour palette used. Usually I am very intrigued by the designers’ influences and references – and I have fun making up quite a few of my own when looking at collections – but Fred Butler’s work is for me so striking and fulfilling visually that my mind feels too drunk with pure aesthetic pleasure to care for any explanation in other terms.

Fred Butler AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Written by Maria Papadimitriou on Tuesday February 28th, 2012 5:02 pm

Categories ,A Shaded View on Fashion, ,accessories, ,accessories designer, ,Agyness Deyn, ,Alun Davies, ,Amelia’s Magazine, ,ASVOF, ,Beth Ditto, ,Bishi, ,Catherine Meadows, ,Charli XCX, ,Collaborations, ,Deborah Moon, ,Diane Pernet, ,EDE, ,Elisha Smith-Leverock, ,Ella Dror PR, ,Fashion Film, ,Fred Butler, ,i-D, ,Isabella Sumner, ,japanese, ,Kim Howells, ,Kimonos, ,Knits, ,Knotted, ,Konstantinos Menelaou, ,La Roux, ,Lady Gaga, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Mitika Chohan, ,monochrome, ,music, ,Nail Art, ,Nicki Minaj, ,Nicola Haigh, ,Noah’s Ark, ,Obi Belts, ,origami, ,pastels, ,Patrick Wolf, ,piers atkinson, ,Portico Rooms, ,Props, ,Quilting, ,rainbow, ,Red Bull Catwalk Studio, ,Red Bull Music Academy, ,Secret Danger Sister, ,Somerset House, ,Sushi, ,Twisted, ,Zaiba Jabbar

Amelia’s Magazine | Jean-Pierre Braganza: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2012 by Catherine Meadows

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2012 by Catherine Meadows

Although Chandelierium was inspired by ‘the sensuality of being covered’ and Victorian women driven to madness by the repression of their concealing clothes, Jean-Pierre Braganza turned constrictive silhouettes into a very wearable collection. As his current S/S 2012 collection was about 1920′s silhouettes and free movement (which I reviewed last London Fashion Week and loved, read about it here) A/W 2012 is all about figures being tailored and moulded by sharp lines. Jean-Pierre Braganza never does things in an expected manner, and played with the idea of how women embraced the dark side of such strict dress to remain in control.

Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2012 by Alia Gargum

All photography by Alia Gargum

After a bit of a wait and shuffle to the Embankment Gallery Show Space and spotting fashion writer legend Colin McDowell, we were let in to get seated and into the mindset of ‘the sensuality of being covered’. It seems that Victorian dress is a big influence for next season, almost a backlash against the vampy vixen type of looks we saw this winter from fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton. Of course, Mr Jean-Pierre Braganza worked his magic and made an originally repressive silhouette just right for 2012. The models stomped down the runway powerfully and with ease, adorned with simple makeup except a metallic lip and beautifully mad hair piled high and cropped short at one temple as if done in a fit of delirium.

Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2012 by Alia Gargum

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2012 by Alia Gargum

I particularly liked how corsets, nipped-in waists and high necklines were referenced yet brought into modern day with beautifully psychedelic prints. Chandelierium was the name of one, which was also used on the invite. Each print gave the impression of falling into an image, surrounded by swirls of purples, reds, lilac pink and green, offset by shimmering metallic fabrics. The best thing was that this collection gave the impression of multiple-layered Victorian dress but kept fresh with a mini skirt here and there, relaxed yet oversized sleeves and flowing silks. As the show continued, it was almost as if Jean-Pierre Braganza was referencing women breaking free of the constriction, mixing dropped-waist trousers with some beautifully patterned knitwear or adding a loosely gathered dress.

Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2012 by Alia Gargum

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2012 by Alia Gargum

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2012 by Illustrated Moodboard

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2012 by Illustrated Moodboard

As the girls fiercely stomped en masse at the end of the show (perhaps to emote that bit of Victorian madwoman unpredictability) I couldn’t think of anyone who would have difficulty finding a piece just right for them in this collection. Loud prints, structured black and deep purple dresses, beetle-bright metallic jacquard, or simple printed silks were all there but didn’t seem to crowd each other. Jean-Pierre Braganza doesn’t just conjure up a fantasy, he makes it wearable and desirable. As Bad Girls by M.I.A. played the girls out and Jean-Pierre Braganza in to do his final bow, I had to smile as I almost got my camera smacked out of my hands by a model’s hip. These women didn’t feel constricted at all, they were ready to knock A/W 2012 right out.

Jean Pierre Braganza by Jaymie O’Callaghan.

Written by Alia Gargum on Monday February 20th, 2012 11:07 am

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Catherine Meadows, ,Chandelierium, ,Colin McDowell, ,Embankment Galleries, ,Embellishment, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Jaymie O’Callaghan, ,Jean Pierre Braganza, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week A/W 2012, ,Louis Vuitton, ,M.I.A, ,Madness, ,Metallic, ,print, ,Silk, ,tailoring, ,Victorians, ,Womenswear, ,wool

Amelia’s Magazine | Alice Lee: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Alice-Lee-by-Claire-Kearns-LFW-AW12

Alice Lee by Claire Kearns

I had been emailing back and forth with Alice Smith a few days before the Alice Lee A/W 2012 show, trying to get a preview finished before London Fashion Week began. As a huge knitwear fan, Alice Lee is one of the names that I get excited about – a must-see show for me on the Vauxhall Fashion Scout schedule. With the preview live, all I had to do now was turn up for the show, and enjoy.

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

All photography by Amelia Gregory

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

So it was to my great frustration that 5 minutes before the show began I found myself stuck in traffic: I had an awful sinking feeling that I wasn’t going to be able to review the show, but after racing into the grand salon room at the Freemasons’ Hall I found that I wasn’t too late, and that although the music had started, the first look was not yet out. Phew.

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

And for me, it was a good start. An off white knitted cape, with a super cosy roll neck, split right from the top and paired with dark cream knitted leggings. For S/S 2012, the collection was made up of similar cream and off white hues, in modern body con dress shapes, so it was great to see a change in shapes they were producing. The second two looks were also cream coloured, the first of which was made up from a knitted jacket with leather and faux-fur details, which I will lust after for a little while. The intricate weave of the jacket showed a great attention to detail, and helped to show off the skills of husband and wife team, Lee Farmer and Alice Smith respectively.

Alice-Lee-by-Catherine-Meadows-LFW-AW2012

Alice Lee by Catherine Meadows

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

Another colour that Alice Lee like to work with is black – which is always key for an A/W collection, but they didn’t play it completely safe, and brought in flashes of bright red and cobalt blue. Blue was used as an accent or detail to lift black outfits. It worked as a contrast line to the neckline of a black knitted dress, but was better as a fun detail to longer sleeves of a lovely black roll neck jumper, which also had strips of the blue run through the chest. A bright red knitter jumper and asymmetric skirt came in the middle of the show, reminiscent of the pop of red that they also used for S/S 2012.

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

Alice-Lee-by-Rosa-and-Carlotta-Crepax-LFW-AW12

Alice Lee by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax

Most of the collection was made up from dresses and knitwear separates, which is what Alice Lee do very well. They also do layering really well, and the middle outfits had knitted coloured sleeves poking out from the bottom of knitted jumpers and dresses. This wrapping up effect was also channelled in the model’s hair styling – which was wrapped fully around the models face, only exposing the mouth. The accents of colour in the clothing were also mimicked in the hair, which had strands of blue and red attached into it. I’m not sure how the models managed to walk in reasonably straight lines with limited sight, especially in those high wedge heels, so well done to them.

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

The last look was finished with a striking head decoration, a black, white and red rose head piece that came down all the way over the face. Some of the dresses were worn with woven coils or tubes around the shoulders and neck, that were stitched with leather, and it was eccentric additions like these that kept the knitwear collection modern. It also gave a nod to the futuristic influence that we had seen in the S/S 2012 collection, but this time in a much more earthy and autumnal colour palette.

Alice-Lee-by-Amelia-Gregory-LFW-AW12

This collection may not have broken any fashion boundaries, but it did show what Alice Lee do best – and that is extremely well crafted knitwear. Alice Smith had told me that one of the influences behind the collection was to give a feeling of being protected and armoured, and these designs live up to that. They are perfect for wrapping yourself up in this winter, and with the edge of leather work woven through the intricate knits, thoroughly modern.

Written by Miranda Williams on Tuesday February 21st, 2012 8:34 pm

Categories ,Alice Lee, ,Alice Smith, ,Catherine Meadows, ,Claire Kearns, ,Dante, ,Faux Fur, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,knitwear, ,leather, ,Lee Farmer, ,London Fashion Week A/W 2012, ,Ones To Watch, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,VFS

Amelia’s Magazine | Ashish: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Ashish S:S 2013 by Charlie Rallings
Ashish S/S 2013 by Charlie Rallings.

This season Ashish decided to buck the trend for extravagant prints and steer clear of his usual riot of colour and pattern to produce a sobre S/S 2013 collection inspired by a mix of estate chic and 90s grunge. Girls in shiny white trainers wore their hair piled high on their head with that most stylish of hair accessories, the scrunch. Round glasses completed the look.

Ashish S/S 2013 by Geiko Louve.

Ashish SS 2013 Sept 2012-PHOTOGRAHY by Amelia Gregory

xAshish SS 2013 Sept 2012-PHOTOGRAHY by Amelia Gregory

Ashish S:S 2013 by Charlie Rallings

Ashish S/S 2013 by Charlie Rallings.

Colours were unashamedly downbeat… steel greys, copper and creams mixed in with denim. Dungarees were worn hanging lopsided as were shirts with a subtle scatter number print. An over sized asymmetric trench and white work shirts hung low, mixed up with loose one colour sequin maxi dresses and polka dot chiffon. Even glitz took on an everyday wearability as a zip top track suit. The show opened with the statement I’m Serious emblazoned on a baggy sweat top and ended with Tres Fatigue on a t-shirt. Quite what Ashish was trying to say this season I have no idea, but despite the break from the norm it was as stylish as ever.

Ashish SS 2013 Sept 2012-PHOTOGRAHY by Amelia Gregory

Ashish S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.