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Emilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011 Collection: Illustration by Faye West
Apparently Emilio de la Morena has lengthened his silhouette. His pieces are now touching, viagra sale or over the knee, prostate ‘signalling a new direction that is stricter and more refined.’ The body con is still there of course, order remaining tighter than a wetsuit, and both wigglier and feistier than Mad Men’s, Joan. That’s exactly what the collection made me think of: Joan and Jessica Rabbit. This translates to: HOT… but sophisticated.
Red Charlotte Olympia shoes featured throughout the show. Now, I’ve always been a fan of red shoes. From ballet to sky scraping, red shoes are sweet vixens, minxes, all playful and naughty. But less; “stop it Roger” and more; “Roger I want champagne, oysters and Chanel. Get them!” She needs a man, not a wimp. She will wear her shoes in the bath, and probably won’t speak to Roger much before or after – whatever happens between them. She’s an old school dressed WOMAN, not a girl, and she expects to be treated with respect. Like the stroppier ones in James Bond films, this woman can kick some ass. And answer back with cutting looks and witty, snappy words.
Emilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011 Collection: Photography by Amelia Gregory
Other Charlotte Olympia shoes included a suede ankle boot and platform sandals in three colours, black, red, powder pink and ivory. All utterly lust-worthy. Heaven. The colour palette mirrors Emilio de la Morena Autumn/Winter collection, which focuses on black, dark purple and RED. The sombre tones of this show, inspired by the work of the American photographer Francesca Woodman and the circumstances surrounding her suicide in New York, in 1981, aged just 22. Her photographs are hauntingly beautiful and predominantly black and white. Emilio de la Morena wanted to reflect these sad circumstances, with his use of passionate, bruised and mourning colours. These give way however, to ivory and powder pink, making for delicate prettiness, next to the block melancholy. Together, the designs look classy, serious and fantastic. I see these beautiful women by the graves of Italian gangsters, weeping. They are hard, stunning and controlled, but what they love – they adore with all their hearts.
Emilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011 Collection: Photography by Amelia Gregory
Victoriana also featured within Emilio de la Morena’s collection, but with a modern, sheer twist. Bib decoration and high necklines created from sheer, frayed and tufted organza, make it lighter, sexier and contemporary. The longer length, wool pencil skirts also featured sheer organza. With panels, embroidered in swirling, zig zagging ribbon, created in the material, as well as silk inserts. The additions allowing for fluidity of movement.
The collection felt serious and respectfully attractive. Not flirty, terribly young, overly romantic or precocious. Instead very sensual and confident. The red stole the show. However, like red lipstick on a make up less face, it looked the most alluring, when it was paired with the other other colours. The eyes and lips are too much – alone they are beautiful. Such a bright red needed the other colours to avoid being lost, and to stand out as a solitary statement. And you know, if the three women were sobbing by the grave, each with an accent of red, just imagine… scandalous, stylish, powerful and mysterious RED.
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2011 by Catherine Askew.
Ponytails, cure red eye make up, pharm close fitting suits, black, lots of black. A male model with razor sharp cheekbones and a hilarious female model with superlative head throwing posing skills. This is what Jean-Pierre Braganza showed at the Northumberland House, a new grandiose LFW location.
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2011 by Jane Young.
Northumberland House.
After loitering in the magnificent reception area we were ushered into the huge ballroom, passing by the backstage area which looked suspiciously like the back of a Hollywood film lot.
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2011 by Kerri-Ann Hulme.
Positronyx was a sexily provocative collection dominated by sharp tailoring and beautiful pattern cutting in a predominantly monochrome palette, bar a nod to that boldest of colours, pillar box red. This cropped up in a dashing geometric tiger-like striped print and on bam bam look-at-me suits for both men and women, but it was across the breast and curving around the hips of a particularly stunning embroidered dress that it enthralled me most.
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2011 by Emmi Ojala.
A quick scan of the show press release reveals that when designing Jean-Pierre Braganza had in mind strong female warrior leaders, perhaps existing in a future world where “tribal affiliation has replaced the current societal controls, and clothing becomes even more imperative for identity, security and culture.” He certainly designs for the bold and assertive lady – creating sexy armour that wouldn’t look out of place on the prowl at a cocktail party.
I was less keen on the sponsored fur elements. But let’s not mention those, eh? It was an otherwise fabulous collection.
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
You can read Matt Bramford’s superb review here, and view more of Emmi Ojala’s work in Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration.
Categories ,Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration, ,black, ,Catherine Askew, ,Emmi Ojala, ,Fur, ,Jane Young, ,Jean Pierre Braganza, ,Kerri-Ann Hulme, ,lfw, ,London Kills Me, ,Matt Bramford, ,Northumberland House, ,Positronyx
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