Amelia’s Magazine | Soojin Lee AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 20
Stark red eye make up accompanied the colourful designs paraded down the catwalk by Soojin Lee. On closer inspection Art Deco-esque designs revealed repeat patterns made up of bullets, rippled metal panels and fighter planes. Here was another designer with war on the mind (see also Jean-Pierre Braganza). Scarfs at the neck echoed an older era of war, as did lady-like crop waist jackets and delicately ruffled shirts worn with dainty floral pleat skirts, creating elegance in a time of great unrest. At the back of her look book Soojin Lee states ‘Pray for peace and protection for everyone…

Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 11
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 16
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 14
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 29
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 26
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Soojin Lee AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Show report, ,Soojin Lee

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Amelia’s Magazine | Youjia Jin AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 9
Everything about the Youjia Jin collection was well considered. Perfect tailoring was given a unique and fanciful twist, deftly playing with usual proportions and stylistic norms. A coat appeared one thing from the front and another from the back, with a swishing cape attached to a smartly tailored jacket. Sheer was combined with wool, cable knit provided detail on a pleated suit dress and gossamer light cascading ruffles adorned skirt waists, sleeves and hems. A traditional single breasted suit collar became the main feature on a coat dress. My favourite piece was a beautiful pinstripe wrap over dress that flared elegantly over a dark underskirt: so flattering and different.

Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 1
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 17
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 38
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 45
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 37
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Youjia Jin AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Show report, ,Youjia Jin

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Amelia’s Magazine | Mimi Tran AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 54
San Francisco based fashion designer Mimi Tran launched her brand just a few years ago after a former career in Silicon Valley, and chose the Fashion Scout catwalk for the first time this season to showcase a collection which oozed red carpet glamour: think sheer column dresses with wasp waists covered in extravagant embellishments in a palette of black, white, gold, red and royal blue. The Vietnamese born designer shares a curious resemblance (and name) with a very successful US based poker player who has made over a million dollars to date… are they in fact one and the same? Did she use her poker money to reinvent herself and realise a childhood dream of being a fashion designer? Or maybe the similarity is merely a coincidence. I would love to know…

Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 11
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 32
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 14
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 41
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 28
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Mimi Tran AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,Catwalk review, ,Fashion Scout, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mimi Tran, ,paris, ,Poker Player, ,review, ,San Francisco, ,Show report, ,Vietnamese

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Amelia’s Magazine | Rejina Pyo AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 5
Rejina Pyo chose an off schedule venue with intense wood panelling, the sense of intrigue heightened with rocks strewn about the darkened room. The same organic shapes were echoed in glittery foil prints on a selection of beautifully tailored jackets, 60s inspired skirt suits and drainpipe trousers. Cute day dresses were woven with strips of golden fabric, gold went all over in a stunning velvety denim cut suit, and dramatic sheers brought a touch of evening glamour for the more daring.

Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 12
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Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 22
Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 23
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,Rejina Pyo, ,review, ,Show report

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week AW15 Exhibition Stands Report including Fashion Scout and Me London

Typical Freaks
In my final AW15 London Fashion Week round up I take a peek at a few of the designers on the stands. At Fashion Scout I got chatting to Sonia Xiao of Typical Freaks, which is a collaborative project with partner Seun Ade-Onojobi. The new collection was inspired by the chaos of dog shows and features baggy layer able hand painted and embellished clothing in pastel brights. Loved it!

Cats Brothers pompoms
At the main London Fashion Week stands my eye was immediately attracted to this massive coat covered with pompoms by Cats Brothers, who specialise in heavily embellished garments that strike a statement.

Pitchouguina
This season Pitchouguina was obsessed with drawing hands, adding unusual statement embroideries such as this to the front of garments.

Emma Shipley
The Emma J Shipley luxury scarf brand goes from strength to strength thanks to her detailed drawing skills and eye for beautiful colour combinations. She recently collaborated with Disney to produce a special Tinkerbell range, profiled on her excellent blog.

Achtland flamingos
Achtland is brand new to LFW, founded by German duo Oliver Luhr and Thomas Bentz but now headquartered in London. I absolutely adored this fun flamingo applique sweat top from the latest collection.

Sadie Williams flowers
Sadie Williams clothing
I love the work of New Gen designer Sadie Williams, who specialises in the application of fancy textiles techniques such as quilting and applique, combined with sheers in a signature bright metallic palette. Love the quirky flower arrangement too.

Min Wu
Min Wu earrings
The new collection by Min Wu features supercute details like these metallic pocket ruffles. Her 3D printed earrings can be made in any colour way and featuring removable spinning interiors.

JD Cruz bags
As a former textile designer I was attracted to the fabulous colourful splashes on these printed leather bags by JD Cruz.

Beautiful Soul lollipops
At the Fashion at Me London showcase I caught up with Nicola Woods of Beautiful Soul, whose floral covered collections grow ever stronger. Loved the stand covered in false hydrangeas and featuring these fabric covered lollies.

Frank by David Longshaw
This little guy is called Frank, the newest character created by fashion designer David Longshaw, who skilfully combines illustration and fashion design to create unique garments.

Vielma dark tales
Finally, Vielma showcased new collection Dark Tales in the bitterly cold entrance to the hotel, featuring expert tailoring and skeleton prints.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,Achtland, ,AW15, ,Beautiful Soul, ,Cats Brothers, ,Dark Tales, ,David Longshaw, ,Emma J Shipley, ,Fashion at Me London, ,Fashion Scout, ,Frank, ,JD Cruz, ,London Fashion Week, ,me london, ,Min Wu, ,New Gen, ,Nicola Woods, ,Oliver Luhr, ,Pitchouguina, ,Sadie Williams, ,Seun Ade-Onojobi, ,Show report, ,Sonia Xiao, ,Thomas Bentz, ,Typical Freaks, ,Vielma

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Scout Ones to Watch AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Ones to Watch J Moon AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Korean designer and London College of Fashion graduate J Moon opened Ones to Watch with a concise and appealing collection of intricately quilted garments in subtle colours of indigo, camel, lemon and burnt orange.

Ones to Watch J Moon AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch J Moon AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch J Moon AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Relaxed boxy, A-line, caped and wrap over shapes lent the clothing a relaxed air, along with comfortable wedge soled slip on shoes. Accessories came in the form of matching patchwork bags in a variety of shapes and wonderful big geometric stud earrings.

Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Next up fellow Korean Minju Kim was a firm favourite with the audience: perhaps because of her already impressive profile as an up and coming fashion designer.

Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Hero’s Eyes was based on a roster of 1980s super heroes with magical powers, and the designer’s interpretation included pastel silk cut out princess party dresses worn with folk inspired flower tiaras, panelled knitwear in dashing shapes worn with pointy beanie hats, and cartoon prints on shirting and dresses. Of particular note were the wonderful shiny high heeled shoes with ears and bows: it seems shoes are an increasingly important part of a young designer’s offering.

Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Angel Chen is a Central Saint Martins graduate. Her romantic yet rebellious vision included a mash up of different influences, materials and even gender.

Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Painterly textiles were worn by both girls and boys, as were patchwork tweeds, and extravagant ruffled layers, ripped and tasselled. Clothing was accessorised with fabric hats, shrubbery, extended twig hands and even a giant golden foil gun. A bold and unusual vision with some appealing garments underneath the styling.

Ones to Watch Kim Stevenson AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Australian designer Kim Stevenson works under the brand name Autonomous.

Ones to Watch Kim Stevenson AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Kim Stevenson AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Kim Stevenson AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Kim Stevenson AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
She presented a streetwise collection which married urban styling with woven panels and appliqué, all done using ethically sourced textiles. Denim was given extra texture with floral patches, and models wore high tasseled cossack hats and multi layered rope necklaces.

Another stellar line up from the Fashion Scout crew. Watch the catwalk shows below:

Ones To Watch: J Moon AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Ones To Watch: Minju Kim AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Ones To Watch: Angel Chen AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Ones To Watch: Kim Stevenson AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,Angel Chen, ,Autonomous, ,AW15, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Hero’s Eyes, ,J Moon, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Minju Kim, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,Show report

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Amelia’s Magazine | Jean-Pierre Braganza AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

JP Braganza AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

This season Jean-Pierre Braganza was inspired once more by strong women with Excelsiora, ’a modern incarnation of an exacting film noir vixen and a war-time heroine.’ Cue a plethora of structured winter coats in deep ink, claret and forest green, and signature sharp tailoring in bold runway stripes. Fighter jets inspired eye catching all over prints and detailed abstract embellishments on silky loose tee tops.

Georgina Trestler for JP Braganzav
Jean-Pierre Braganza AW15 by Georgina Trestler.

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JP Braganza AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 22
TV presenter Lilah Parsons front row with friends.

Categories ,AW15, ,Catwalk review, ,Excelsiora, ,Georgina Trestler, ,Jean Pierre Braganza, ,Lilah Parsons, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Show report

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dans La Vie: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I have a huge soft spot for collections with art historical references. Print designer Rira Sugawara of Dans La Vie, who showed her A/W 2012 collection entitled Exciting Encounter at Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week, certainly delivered on that front. Aided by the mention of 60′s American pop art in the invitation the first image that sprang to mind after the first few models with brightly coloured wavy short hair strutted their stuff on the catwalk was Andy Warhol’s Marilyn prints. This made a lot of sense when only after the show I checked the Dans La Vie website where indeed it says that Andy Warhol is Rira Sugawara’s main inspiration.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Kris Keys

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Kris Keys

An ex Art History student the designer behind Dans La Vie managed to beautifully combine an array of pop art and art historical references in her complicated, busy and bold collage prints: Jasper Jones’ ‘Target’ painting from the late 60s, Roy Lichtenstein’s ‘Brush Stroke’ and ‘Explosion’ prints, as well as offcuts from Japanese prints were only a few of the ones I managed to recognise. Leonardo Da Vinci’s ‘Virgin of the Rocks’ – another Warhol reference – and cherubs, used before on print designs for previous collections – also made a reappearance.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Ailish Sullivan

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Ailish Sullivan

Jasper Jones’ purple and orange circle from the ‘Target’ painting was not only replicated on the clothes but was also turned into a striking and witty fascinator, which I thought was a great idea.

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax - Illustrated Moodboard

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax – Illustrated Moodboard

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Head to toe printed suits were belted with short or long coats created out of what appeared to be a thin vinyl material, which brought in an element of kitsch and reminded me of table-clothes in sunny summer gardens. So in the same way that American pop art mixed high and low culture Dans La Vie covered intricate prints with references to pop art artworks – which have now become high art – with a cheap looking, plastic material.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Deborah  Moon

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Deborah Moon

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

I am not usually one to notice trends too much, but since only a few days before attending the show I had stumbled across a piece in British Vogue about bold, brightly coloured clip-on hair pieces being all the rage at the moment, I could not help thinking the use of fluorescent hair strands in purple, green, pink and orange was bang on trend – well, at least according to Vogue. Of course the reference to Marilyn Monroe when the popular film My Week With Marilyn, starring Michelle Williams, is screening in cinemas gave the show extra points for being current, something I believe Rira Sugawara strives to be, as previous collections featured imagery from world events happening during that time.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Carne Griffiths

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Carne Griffiths

I was crouching immediately next to the photographers for this show and I can honestly say its energy and tempo raised on my arms a hair or two, so I am thrilled to have become aware of Dans La Vie’s existence and I am really looking forward to see what’s in store for the seasons to come. Up until then I will be probably trying to figure out what exactly Rira Sugawara meant when she wrote that the Exciting Encounter in her collection is ‘between 60′s American pop art and the spiritual character of Kuukai, a Japanese High Priest‘ – obviously I get the first bit but I am not so sure about the second, even though I find it fascinating.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou and Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ailish Sullivan, ,American Pop Art, ,Andy Warhol, ,British Vogue, ,Carne Griffiths, ,collages, ,Dans La Vie, ,Deborah Moon, ,fashion, ,Headwear, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,japanese, ,Japanese Prints, ,Jasper Jones, ,kitsch, ,Kristen Keys, ,Leonardo Da Vinci, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Marilyn Monroe, ,Mitika Chohan, ,My week with Marilyn, ,Pop Art, ,Print Design, ,Rira Sugawara, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Roy Lichtenstein, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Vinyl, ,Vogue magazine

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