Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2014: Somerset House exhibition stands report

Jo Hayes Ward jewellery

Before I finish my coverage of London Fashion Week for another season here is a quick pictorial round up of my favourite exhibition finds… gathered from the exhibition space at Somerset House and beyond. At the main stands I only managed to get around the first floor, where I found lots of great jewellery, as always. Jo Hayes Ward goes from strength to strength with her amazing CAD designed jewellery – despite giving birth to her second child just three months ago. These kinetic earrings and pendant have fine articulated parts so that they twinkle beautifully when you move.

Cleo Mercury collar

Cleo Mercury silk scarf

Cleo Ferin Mercury makes colourful accessories with a playful edge. Her decorated collars offer a quirky alternative to wearing a necklace, and I love this shaped silk tiger scarf.

Alice Cicolini rings

I first noticed Alice Cicolini jewellery last season, but had the opportunity to meet the designer herself this time round. This talented lady is also an art curator and a mum; I absolutely adore the unique way she combines precious gems and colourful enamel, designed by herself and made by artisans in India. Sadly I didn’t get a good photo myself so the one above is taken from her website.

Imogen Belfield necklaces

I particularly like the new gem set Imogen Belfield jewels. Just check out that multi-layered chain!

Rachel Entwistle flint bracelet

Rachel Entwistle’s collection was full of desirable pieces such as the silver flint bracelet shown above.

Lily Kamper necklace

Lily Kamper continues to impress with her art deco inspired perspex jewels. New for this season: resins that look like marble, ombre colourings and inlaid sapphires. Lush.

K2 knitwear design

There were many familiar designers in the showrooms but I made a few exciting new discoveries including K2TOG or Knit 2 Together, a designer with a ‘waste not want not’ attitude and one of Estethica‘s Emerging Talents. Central Saint Martins graduate Katie Jones upcycles old aran jumpers with the application of bright embellishments inspired by European folk art. Very cool.

Over on the NewGen stands I was also very impressed by the work of South London based Irish designer Danielle Romeril, who has found a way to combine normally unrelated fabrics to create her own interesting silhouette with lots of tactile detail. Definitely one to watch in coming seasons: I apologise that I did not get a decent photo of this one either, but do take a peek at the video of her collection above.

Beautiful soul display LFW

Over at the Me Hotel I admired the pretty display by Beautiful Soul, part of the Felicities PR presentation.

George Styler knitwear

Finally, it was great to see the work of George Styler up close at the new designers installation at Freemasons’ Hall. Read my review of his catwalk show here.

Next up: finds at the off schedule Off Strand show at the Hoxton Gallery.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Alice Cicolini, ,Beautiful Soul, ,CAD, ,Cleo Ferin Mercury, ,Danielle Romeril, ,estethica, ,exhibition, ,Felicities PR, ,George Styler, ,Imogen Belfield, ,K2TOG, ,Katie Jones, ,Knit 2 Together, ,Lily Kamper, ,London Fashion Week, ,Me Hotel, ,Newgen, ,Rachel Entwistle, ,Report, ,review, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dans La Vie: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I have a huge soft spot for collections with art historical references. Print designer Rira Sugawara of Dans La Vie, who showed her A/W 2012 collection entitled Exciting Encounter at Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week, certainly delivered on that front. Aided by the mention of 60′s American pop art in the invitation the first image that sprang to mind after the first few models with brightly coloured wavy short hair strutted their stuff on the catwalk was Andy Warhol’s Marilyn prints. This made a lot of sense when only after the show I checked the Dans La Vie website where indeed it says that Andy Warhol is Rira Sugawara’s main inspiration.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Kris Keys

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Kris Keys

An ex Art History student the designer behind Dans La Vie managed to beautifully combine an array of pop art and art historical references in her complicated, busy and bold collage prints: Jasper Jones’ ‘Target’ painting from the late 60s, Roy Lichtenstein’s ‘Brush Stroke’ and ‘Explosion’ prints, as well as offcuts from Japanese prints were only a few of the ones I managed to recognise. Leonardo Da Vinci’s ‘Virgin of the Rocks’ – another Warhol reference – and cherubs, used before on print designs for previous collections – also made a reappearance.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Ailish Sullivan

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Ailish Sullivan

Jasper Jones’ purple and orange circle from the ‘Target’ painting was not only replicated on the clothes but was also turned into a striking and witty fascinator, which I thought was a great idea.

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax - Illustrated Moodboard

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax – Illustrated Moodboard

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Head to toe printed suits were belted with short or long coats created out of what appeared to be a thin vinyl material, which brought in an element of kitsch and reminded me of table-clothes in sunny summer gardens. So in the same way that American pop art mixed high and low culture Dans La Vie covered intricate prints with references to pop art artworks – which have now become high art – with a cheap looking, plastic material.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Deborah  Moon

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Deborah Moon

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

I am not usually one to notice trends too much, but since only a few days before attending the show I had stumbled across a piece in British Vogue about bold, brightly coloured clip-on hair pieces being all the rage at the moment, I could not help thinking the use of fluorescent hair strands in purple, green, pink and orange was bang on trend – well, at least according to Vogue. Of course the reference to Marilyn Monroe when the popular film My Week With Marilyn, starring Michelle Williams, is screening in cinemas gave the show extra points for being current, something I believe Rira Sugawara strives to be, as previous collections featured imagery from world events happening during that time.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Carne Griffiths

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Carne Griffiths

I was crouching immediately next to the photographers for this show and I can honestly say its energy and tempo raised on my arms a hair or two, so I am thrilled to have become aware of Dans La Vie’s existence and I am really looking forward to see what’s in store for the seasons to come. Up until then I will be probably trying to figure out what exactly Rira Sugawara meant when she wrote that the Exciting Encounter in her collection is ‘between 60′s American pop art and the spiritual character of Kuukai, a Japanese High Priest‘ – obviously I get the first bit but I am not so sure about the second, even though I find it fascinating.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou and Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ailish Sullivan, ,American Pop Art, ,Andy Warhol, ,British Vogue, ,Carne Griffiths, ,collages, ,Dans La Vie, ,Deborah Moon, ,fashion, ,Headwear, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,japanese, ,Japanese Prints, ,Jasper Jones, ,kitsch, ,Kristen Keys, ,Leonardo Da Vinci, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Marilyn Monroe, ,Mitika Chohan, ,My week with Marilyn, ,Pop Art, ,Print Design, ,Rira Sugawara, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Roy Lichtenstein, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Vinyl, ,Vogue magazine

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