Amelia’s Magazine | Soojin Lee AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 20
Stark red eye make up accompanied the colourful designs paraded down the catwalk by Soojin Lee. On closer inspection Art Deco-esque designs revealed repeat patterns made up of bullets, rippled metal panels and fighter planes. Here was another designer with war on the mind (see also Jean-Pierre Braganza). Scarfs at the neck echoed an older era of war, as did lady-like crop waist jackets and delicately ruffled shirts worn with dainty floral pleat skirts, creating elegance in a time of great unrest. At the back of her look book Soojin Lee states ‘Pray for peace and protection for everyone…

Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 11
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 16
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 14
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 29
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 26
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Soojin Lee AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Show report, ,Soojin Lee

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Amelia’s Magazine | Youjia Jin AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 9
Everything about the Youjia Jin collection was well considered. Perfect tailoring was given a unique and fanciful twist, deftly playing with usual proportions and stylistic norms. A coat appeared one thing from the front and another from the back, with a swishing cape attached to a smartly tailored jacket. Sheer was combined with wool, cable knit provided detail on a pleated suit dress and gossamer light cascading ruffles adorned skirt waists, sleeves and hems. A traditional single breasted suit collar became the main feature on a coat dress. My favourite piece was a beautiful pinstripe wrap over dress that flared elegantly over a dark underskirt: so flattering and different.

Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 1
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 17
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 38
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 45
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 37
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Youjia Jin AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Show report, ,Youjia Jin

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Amelia’s Magazine | Rejina Pyo AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 5
Rejina Pyo chose an off schedule venue with intense wood panelling, the sense of intrigue heightened with rocks strewn about the darkened room. The same organic shapes were echoed in glittery foil prints on a selection of beautifully tailored jackets, 60s inspired skirt suits and drainpipe trousers. Cute day dresses were woven with strips of golden fabric, gold went all over in a stunning velvety denim cut suit, and dramatic sheers brought a touch of evening glamour for the more daring.

Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 12
Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 15
Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 22
Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 23
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,Rejina Pyo, ,review, ,Show report

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Amelia’s Magazine | Mimi Tran AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 54
San Francisco based fashion designer Mimi Tran launched her brand just a few years ago after a former career in Silicon Valley, and chose the Fashion Scout catwalk for the first time this season to showcase a collection which oozed red carpet glamour: think sheer column dresses with wasp waists covered in extravagant embellishments in a palette of black, white, gold, red and royal blue. The Vietnamese born designer shares a curious resemblance (and name) with a very successful US based poker player who has made over a million dollars to date… are they in fact one and the same? Did she use her poker money to reinvent herself and realise a childhood dream of being a fashion designer? Or maybe the similarity is merely a coincidence. I would love to know…

Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 11
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 32
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 14
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Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 28
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Mimi Tran AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,Catwalk review, ,Fashion Scout, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mimi Tran, ,paris, ,Poker Player, ,review, ,San Francisco, ,Show report, ,Vietnamese

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week AW15 Exhibition Stands Report including Fashion Scout and Me London

Typical Freaks
In my final AW15 London Fashion Week round up I take a peek at a few of the designers on the stands. At Fashion Scout I got chatting to Sonia Xiao of Typical Freaks, which is a collaborative project with partner Seun Ade-Onojobi. The new collection was inspired by the chaos of dog shows and features baggy layer able hand painted and embellished clothing in pastel brights. Loved it!

Cats Brothers pompoms
At the main London Fashion Week stands my eye was immediately attracted to this massive coat covered with pompoms by Cats Brothers, who specialise in heavily embellished garments that strike a statement.

Pitchouguina
This season Pitchouguina was obsessed with drawing hands, adding unusual statement embroideries such as this to the front of garments.

Emma Shipley
The Emma J Shipley luxury scarf brand goes from strength to strength thanks to her detailed drawing skills and eye for beautiful colour combinations. She recently collaborated with Disney to produce a special Tinkerbell range, profiled on her excellent blog.

Achtland flamingos
Achtland is brand new to LFW, founded by German duo Oliver Luhr and Thomas Bentz but now headquartered in London. I absolutely adored this fun flamingo applique sweat top from the latest collection.

Sadie Williams flowers
Sadie Williams clothing
I love the work of New Gen designer Sadie Williams, who specialises in the application of fancy textiles techniques such as quilting and applique, combined with sheers in a signature bright metallic palette. Love the quirky flower arrangement too.

Min Wu
Min Wu earrings
The new collection by Min Wu features supercute details like these metallic pocket ruffles. Her 3D printed earrings can be made in any colour way and featuring removable spinning interiors.

JD Cruz bags
As a former textile designer I was attracted to the fabulous colourful splashes on these printed leather bags by JD Cruz.

Beautiful Soul lollipops
At the Fashion at Me London showcase I caught up with Nicola Woods of Beautiful Soul, whose floral covered collections grow ever stronger. Loved the stand covered in false hydrangeas and featuring these fabric covered lollies.

Frank by David Longshaw
This little guy is called Frank, the newest character created by fashion designer David Longshaw, who skilfully combines illustration and fashion design to create unique garments.

Vielma dark tales
Finally, Vielma showcased new collection Dark Tales in the bitterly cold entrance to the hotel, featuring expert tailoring and skeleton prints.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,Achtland, ,AW15, ,Beautiful Soul, ,Cats Brothers, ,Dark Tales, ,David Longshaw, ,Emma J Shipley, ,Fashion at Me London, ,Fashion Scout, ,Frank, ,JD Cruz, ,London Fashion Week, ,me london, ,Min Wu, ,New Gen, ,Nicola Woods, ,Oliver Luhr, ,Pitchouguina, ,Sadie Williams, ,Seun Ade-Onojobi, ,Show report, ,Sonia Xiao, ,Thomas Bentz, ,Typical Freaks, ,Vielma

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week AW15 Fashion Illustrations

Vivienne Westwood Red Label LFW by Sara Netherway
Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW15 by Sara Netherway.

This year, instead of accompanying individual show reviews with fashion illustrations I decided to do something a bit different and open up the brief: inviting illustrators to send me their interpretation of any look from any of the London Fashion Week shows that took place, whether on or off schedule. Here are the results, all in one place. I hope you enjoy them!

Temperley-by-Emma-Farrarons
Temperley AW15 by Emma Farrarons.

SophiaWebster AW15 by_KatSquire_03
Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire.

Minnan Hui AW15 Karolina Burdon
Minnan Hui AW15 by Karolina Burdon.

BURBERRY by EUGENIA_TSIMIKLIS_LO
Burberry AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis.

Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire
Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire.

Burberry AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis
Burberry AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis.

Antonio Berardi by Jordana Globerman
Antonio Berardi AW15 by Jordana Globerman.

Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire
Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire.

MATTHEW_WILLIAMSON AW15 by EUGENIA_TSIMIKLIS_LO
Matthew Williamson AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis.

Burberry Prorsum by Jordana Globerman
Burberry Prorsum AW15 by Jordana Globerman.

AW15 London Fashion Week Alice Temperley 480pix by Kasia Dudziuk
Alice Temperley AW15 by Kasia Dudziuk.

Orla Kiely AW15 by Lydia Coventry
Orla Kiely AW15 by Lydia Coventry.

Minnan Hui AW15 by Isabelle Mattern2
Minnan Hui AW15 by Isabelle Mattern2
Minnan Hui AW15 by Isabelle Mattern.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label by Sara Netherway
Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW15 by Sara Netherway.

Phoebe English by Laura Wilson
Phoebe English AW15 by Laura Wilson.

Daisy Steele Holly Fulton AW15
Holly Fulton AW15 by Daisy Steele.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 by  Iris van Gelder LFW
Mary Katrantzou AW15 by Iris van Gelder.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,Antonio Berardi, ,AW15, ,Burberry, ,Daisy Steele, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Eugenia Tsimiklis, ,Fashion Illustrations, ,Iris van Gelder, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,Jordana Globerman, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Kasia Dudziuk, ,Kat Squire, ,Laura Wilson, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lydia Coventry, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Minnan Hui, ,Phoebe English, ,Sara Netherway, ,Sophia Webster, ,Temperley, ,Vivienne Westwood Red Label

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Amelia’s Magazine | Jamie Wei Huang AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 28
Jamie Wei Huang chose a hard vibe for A/W 2015, with a large collection titled Nymphomaniac sent down the catwalk to an ominous soundtrack of deep industrial metal. Her always androgynous tailoring was given a darker twist this season, with zips, tassels, wool insets and buckles used liberally throughout, hair worn greased across the face. A pearlescent fish scale textured top in cream with black stripes and pocket was a personal favourite; accessories were also a highlight, including crepe platform-heeled brogues in juicy patent, high wristed button gloves, clutch bags and tasselled backpacks. Blood red and intense blues were a welcome colour addition to a predominantly monochrome collection.

Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 17
Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 39
Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 20
Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 25
Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 48
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Jamie Wei Huang AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,Fashion Scout, ,Industrial, ,Jamie Wei Huang, ,London Fashion Week, ,Nymphomaniac, ,review

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dans La Vie: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I have a huge soft spot for collections with art historical references. Print designer Rira Sugawara of Dans La Vie, who showed her A/W 2012 collection entitled Exciting Encounter at Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week, certainly delivered on that front. Aided by the mention of 60′s American pop art in the invitation the first image that sprang to mind after the first few models with brightly coloured wavy short hair strutted their stuff on the catwalk was Andy Warhol’s Marilyn prints. This made a lot of sense when only after the show I checked the Dans La Vie website where indeed it says that Andy Warhol is Rira Sugawara’s main inspiration.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Kris Keys

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Kris Keys

An ex Art History student the designer behind Dans La Vie managed to beautifully combine an array of pop art and art historical references in her complicated, busy and bold collage prints: Jasper Jones’ ‘Target’ painting from the late 60s, Roy Lichtenstein’s ‘Brush Stroke’ and ‘Explosion’ prints, as well as offcuts from Japanese prints were only a few of the ones I managed to recognise. Leonardo Da Vinci’s ‘Virgin of the Rocks’ – another Warhol reference – and cherubs, used before on print designs for previous collections – also made a reappearance.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Ailish Sullivan

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Ailish Sullivan

Jasper Jones’ purple and orange circle from the ‘Target’ painting was not only replicated on the clothes but was also turned into a striking and witty fascinator, which I thought was a great idea.

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax - Illustrated Moodboard

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax – Illustrated Moodboard

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Head to toe printed suits were belted with short or long coats created out of what appeared to be a thin vinyl material, which brought in an element of kitsch and reminded me of table-clothes in sunny summer gardens. So in the same way that American pop art mixed high and low culture Dans La Vie covered intricate prints with references to pop art artworks – which have now become high art – with a cheap looking, plastic material.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Deborah  Moon

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Deborah Moon

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

I am not usually one to notice trends too much, but since only a few days before attending the show I had stumbled across a piece in British Vogue about bold, brightly coloured clip-on hair pieces being all the rage at the moment, I could not help thinking the use of fluorescent hair strands in purple, green, pink and orange was bang on trend – well, at least according to Vogue. Of course the reference to Marilyn Monroe when the popular film My Week With Marilyn, starring Michelle Williams, is screening in cinemas gave the show extra points for being current, something I believe Rira Sugawara strives to be, as previous collections featured imagery from world events happening during that time.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Carne Griffiths

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Carne Griffiths

I was crouching immediately next to the photographers for this show and I can honestly say its energy and tempo raised on my arms a hair or two, so I am thrilled to have become aware of Dans La Vie’s existence and I am really looking forward to see what’s in store for the seasons to come. Up until then I will be probably trying to figure out what exactly Rira Sugawara meant when she wrote that the Exciting Encounter in her collection is ‘between 60′s American pop art and the spiritual character of Kuukai, a Japanese High Priest‘ – obviously I get the first bit but I am not so sure about the second, even though I find it fascinating.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou and Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ailish Sullivan, ,American Pop Art, ,Andy Warhol, ,British Vogue, ,Carne Griffiths, ,collages, ,Dans La Vie, ,Deborah Moon, ,fashion, ,Headwear, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,japanese, ,Japanese Prints, ,Jasper Jones, ,kitsch, ,Kristen Keys, ,Leonardo Da Vinci, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Marilyn Monroe, ,Mitika Chohan, ,My week with Marilyn, ,Pop Art, ,Print Design, ,Rira Sugawara, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Roy Lichtenstein, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Vinyl, ,Vogue magazine

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dora Abodi: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Dora Abodi by Simon McLaren
Dora Abodi by Simon McLaren.

Dora Abodi was a new name to me. She founded her label in 2009 in Hungary and currently divides her time between Milan and Budapest. I was pleased to note that she doesn’t work with fur and only uses materials from an ethical origin, working with craftspeople to achieve a fine finish on garments and accessories.

Dora Abodi Spring Summer 2015, illustration by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard for Amelia's Magazine
Dora Abodi SS15 by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax of Illustrated Moodboard.

I loved the cardboard cut out invitation to this show (not enough interesting invites in these days of austerity…) which was covered in graphic photo generated patterns that appeared on a series of belted dresses, and panelled crop tops worn with flared skirts. She’s obviously a fan of Jonathan Saunders, Belle Sauvage and kin, but gave this collection a gothic spice of its own with slick black mullets, dark eyes and swishing curved embellishments reminiscent of birds wings. The show closed with a stunning ensemble that would not be out of place as inspiration for my 10th anniversary open brief, calling to mind animal spirits and shamans.

Scroll down to view the video.

Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Budapest, ,catwalk, ,Dora Abodi, ,Hungarian, ,Hungary, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Jonathan Saunders, ,London Fashion Week, ,Milan, ,review, ,Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, ,S/S 2015, ,Simon Mclaren, ,SS15

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Amelia’s Magazine | Aware: Art Fashion Identity at the Royal Academy

this web Little Rich Girls, capsule 2010″ src=”http://www.ameliasmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Installation-shot-from-GSK-Contemporary-Aware-Yinka-Shonibare-Little-Rich-Girls-2010-.jpg” alt=”” width=”480″ height=”654″ /> Yinka Shonibare MBE, abortion Little Rich Girls, 2010, Installation shot from GSK Contemporary – Aware: Art Fashion Identity, Commissioned by the London College of Fashion and the Royal Academy of Arts, © The Artist, Photo: Andy Stagg, Courtesy Royal Academy of Arts, London

In 2009, the Royal Academy of Art’s exhibition exploring contemporary art, Earth: Art of a Changing World featured a selection of artists engaging with the physical impacts of Climate Change. For 2010 the Royal Academy turned it’s attention to the subject of identity and clothing in Aware: Art Fashion Identity. Broken down into three segments; Storytelling, Building and Belonging and Confronting, the exhibition endeavors to examine the possibilities provided –as explored by artists and fashion designers- by clothing to reveal and conceal our cultural and physical identity.

A new commission from Yinka Shonibare focused on cultural perceptions of the origin of a cloth usually associated with Africa. Under closer examination, these perceptions turn out to be false. Shonibare’s ghostly installation reveals that the origination of the batik pattern thought to be synonymous with Africa, is in fact Holland. The Dutch pattern makers sold the fabric em masse to Africa, only after a European buyer could not be found.

Yoko Ono, Cut Piece, 1965, A film by Albert and David Maysles of Yoko Ono’s performance of Cut Piece at Carnegie Recital Hall, New York, 21 March 1965, 16mm black-and-white film with sync sound, transferred to DVD, running time 9’ Courtesy of the artist

After entering the Royal Academy via Burlington Arcade and walking up the stairs into the main exhibition space. The audience moves through the three sections in a circular motion; first encountering Storytelling (announced by the presence of an embroidered kimono by Grayson Perry) then Building and finally Belonging and Confronting. The audience departs Aware: Art Fashion Identity via the two of the exhibition’s most interesting works – both of which are nearing 30 years old.

Yoko Ono and Marina Abramovic’s performance pieces lay bare the artifice and cultural constructs which lay at the heart of both fashion and art identity. In the 9 minute video, Marina Abramovic and Ulay stand naked in a gallery doorway, forcing visitors to confront the physicality of the naked body, stripped of it’s adornments. Meanwhile in a video opposite Yoko Ono sits quietly on a stage whilst members of the audience snip her free from the garments of femininity. An exciting introduction to these two artists, it is a shame that more of their work was not included.

The limited inclusion of performance art is a lost opportunity, specifically because the three included pieces (Marina Abramovic Yoko Ono and Cindy Sherman) lend themselves vividly to the concept (i.e. the relationship between our cultural and personal identity and how we are perceived by others) this exhibition was starting to explore.

GSK Contemporary – Aware: Art Fashion Identity
Royal Academy of Arts, 2 December 2010 – 30 January 2011, Marina Abramovi?, Imponderabilia Performance 1977
Galleria Comunale d’Arte, Bologna © Marina Abramovi?. Courtesy of Marina Abramovi? and Sean Kelly Gallery, New York. © DACS 2010
Photo by Giovanna dal Magro

Cindy Sherman’s Paper Doll, an early video piece from the acclaimed artist, which lasts for 2.30 minutes, was located within the first room of the exhibition. In Paper Doll Cindy Sherman questions the accepted popularity of a toy heavily steeped in gender stereotyping: the paper doll. In the piece Sherman reduces herself into an inanimate object whose sole purpose is to decide what to wear depending on that day’s activity. At the end of the film, a hand removes the clothes displaying the doll’s nudity and places her back in her box. An intriguing piece of work, this singular nod does nothing to encourage the exploration of Sherman’s overture, including Untitled, a series of stills in which the artist explored the creation of a particular type of femininity after the rise of the movie.

Cindy Sherman, Doll Clothes 1975, Stills from 16 mm film on DVD, © Cindy Sherman / Sammlung Verbund, Vienna / Sprüth Magers Berlin London

Throughout the exhibition, Aware: Art Fashion and Identity makes rapid nods to artists and fashion designers alike – a single McQueen stands in the corner. Devoid of its context and standing alone within the white walls of the RA the identity of the dress becomes lost. When viewed within an entire collection, this beautiful object becomes a brutal critique on historical and modern notions of femininity.

Alexander McQueen, Autumn Winter 1998: Joan, Photo © Chris Moore, Courtesy of Catwalking

An enjoyable exhibition, though the art appears to be spread too thin and the outcome of which is that interesting ideas are left hanging or barely graspable unless you enter the exhibition with prior knowledge of the artists or fashion designers previous body of work.

The final section of the exhibition explores ideas surrounding Belonging and Confronting. Sharif Waked’s Chic Point places the daily humiliation the Palestinian man undergoes at Israeli checkpoints onto the catwalk. The photographs included at the end were taken by the artist, visualising the moment when clothes cease to become clothes and mutate into something – whether imagined or not – fearful and different.

Sharif Waked, Chic Point, 2003, DVD, running time 5’ 27” Courtesy of the artist, Photo Sharif Waked

Coco Chanel suggestion that we “look for the woman in the dress and if there is no woman, there is no dress” is taken up by Hussein Chalayan’s latest commission. In Son of Sonzai Suri, the fashion designer uses the 300-year-old Japanese tradition of Bunraku puppet theatre to lay bare the hidden puppeteers at the heart of the fashion industry.

Hussein Chalayan, ‘Son’ of Sonzai Suru, 2010, Installation shot from GSK Contemporary – Aware: Art Fashion Identity, Commissioned by the London College of Fashion and the Royal Academy of Arts, © The Artist, Photo: Andy Stagg, Courtesy Royal Academy of Arts, London

Aware: Art Fashion Identity closes with the video pieces of Marina Abramovic and Yoko Ono. With the decision to close the exhibition here, it appears that the critique of identity and femininity stopped in the 70’s. It could have been an interesting experiment to juxtapose 70′s performance art against the catwalk shows of Alexander McQueen or Maison Martin Margiela.

The past few months have been fantastic for those interested in fashion, with a splurge of fashion related exhibitions across the capital, get to the Royal Academy quick before Aware: Art Fashion Identity closes on the 30th January 2011.
Royal Academy, 6 Burlington Gardens, London

Categories ,6 Burlington Gardens, ,Alexander McQueen, ,Aware: Art Fashion Identity, ,Belonging, ,Cindy Sherman, ,clothes, ,India, ,London College of Fashion, ,marina abramovic, ,Mumbai, ,politics, ,Royal Academy, ,The Body, ,Yinka Shonibare, ,Yoko Ono

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