Amelia’s Magazine | Tata Naka: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Presentation Review

Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman
Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman.

My last write up for this season features the new collection from the ever wonderful twins behind Tata Naka. This season they eschewed the cool light of the Portico Rooms (no longer used for LFW presentations) to show in the newly created Studio space on the lower levels of Somerset House. Given that this is a dark venue it was a wise decision to shoot with plenty of flash against a simple black backdrop, the girls rearranged on blacked out props, sometimes with parts of their body obscured. Given the complicated set designs of the past few seasons this was probably a relief to put together.

Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory.

This season the girls delved into a wealth of inspiration left behind by Sergei Diaghilev and his iconic Ballet Russes. The bold constructivist shapes that characterised his graphic costumes and set designs were made for these girls to expand on in their inimitable style. The collection was shown in staggered stages so that Tata Naka could shoot their look book, so I only had time to view one part. By a stroke of luck it may well have been my favourite, with geometric designs and lettering placed in great swipes of glorious colour across cream and black grounds on simple calf length strapless flapper dresses, a sleeveless playsuit and a twosie lounge suit with hexagon embellishments. For summer a simple 80s style tank swimsuit looked perfect worn with slicked back hair and heels.

Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Daisy Steele
Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Daisy Steele.

Other parts of the collection (which you can view here) featured dotty net dresses encrusted with giant appliqué stars, jigsaw panels in sugary pastels, and pop art style placement prints on strapless prom dresses. After a mild diversion into new territory last season this felt like Tata Naka returning to their rightful groove: every outfit a beautiful (wearable) piece of art in its own right.

Categories ,Ballet Russes, ,Book Review, ,Daisy Steele, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Presentation, ,S/S 2014, ,Sergei Diaghilev, ,Somerset House, ,Studio, ,Tata Naka

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Amelia’s Magazine | Orla Kiely AW15: London Fashion Week Presentation Review

Orla Kiely AW15 Daisy Steele
Orla Kiely AW15 by Daisy Steele.

This season Orla Kiely looked to library chic, sending the girls out to meander around artfully recreated shelves, stairs and wooden tables inside the Vinyl Factory. Mixing up the decades with silhouettes inspired by the 60s and 70s, this was a beautiful collection of wearable clothes set off by signature Orla Kiely prints, this time inspired by maths and geometry. Lemon yellow and pale peach were worn with workaday beige and schoolgirl greys, boxy shapes matched with more romantic flowing fabrics. Once again Orla Kiely has collaborated with Clarks on a beautiful range of highly desirable shoes. The gold sparkle Orla Abigail is on my particular wish list.

Orla Kiely LFW By Faye West
Orla Kiely AW15 By Faye West.

Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 2
Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 4
Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 4
Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 5
Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 1
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ali Macgraw, ,AW15, ,Clarks, ,Daisy Steele, ,Faye West, ,Library Chic, ,Love Story, ,Orla Abigail, ,Orla Kiely, ,review, ,Vinyl Factory

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week AW15 Fashion Illustrations

Vivienne Westwood Red Label LFW by Sara Netherway
Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW15 by Sara Netherway.

This year, instead of accompanying individual show reviews with fashion illustrations I decided to do something a bit different and open up the brief: inviting illustrators to send me their interpretation of any look from any of the London Fashion Week shows that took place, whether on or off schedule. Here are the results, all in one place. I hope you enjoy them!

Temperley AW15 by Emma Farrarons.

SophiaWebster AW15 by_KatSquire_03
Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire.

Minnan Hui AW15 Karolina Burdon
Minnan Hui AW15 by Karolina Burdon.

Burberry AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis.

Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire
Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire.

Burberry AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis
Burberry AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis.

Antonio Berardi by Jordana Globerman
Antonio Berardi AW15 by Jordana Globerman.

Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire
Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire.

Matthew Williamson AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis.

Burberry Prorsum by Jordana Globerman
Burberry Prorsum AW15 by Jordana Globerman.

AW15 London Fashion Week Alice Temperley 480pix by Kasia Dudziuk
Alice Temperley AW15 by Kasia Dudziuk.

Orla Kiely AW15 by Lydia Coventry
Orla Kiely AW15 by Lydia Coventry.

Minnan Hui AW15 by Isabelle Mattern2
Minnan Hui AW15 by Isabelle Mattern2
Minnan Hui AW15 by Isabelle Mattern.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label by Sara Netherway
Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW15 by Sara Netherway.

Phoebe English by Laura Wilson
Phoebe English AW15 by Laura Wilson.

Daisy Steele Holly Fulton AW15
Holly Fulton AW15 by Daisy Steele.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 by  Iris van Gelder LFW
Mary Katrantzou AW15 by Iris van Gelder.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,Antonio Berardi, ,AW15, ,Burberry, ,Daisy Steele, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Eugenia Tsimiklis, ,Fashion Illustrations, ,Iris van Gelder, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,Jordana Globerman, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Kasia Dudziuk, ,Kat Squire, ,Laura Wilson, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lydia Coventry, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Minnan Hui, ,Phoebe English, ,Sara Netherway, ,Sophia Webster, ,Temperley, ,Vivienne Westwood Red Label

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Amelia’s Magazine | Little Shilpa: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Presentation Review

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs

Little Shilpa is the eponymous label of Mumbai born milliner and accessory designer Shilpa Chavan, and this was her first ever Fashion Scout showcase during London Fashion Week. I have recently been rather obsessed with eastern religions’ goddess iconography and images of Green Tara, Shakti merging into Shiva or Hathor crowd my desktop, so attending Little Shilpa’s ‘Grey Matter’ presentation was a welcome gift indeed. The five figures standing in front of us looked like five fantastical deities, delightfully adorned with dramatic headpieces and jewellery whose forms had obvious eastern influences. Their bodies were clothed with equally theatrical textile assemblages, some of them referencing the sari and including tulle, brocade, silk and lace. In both her accessories and garments, Shilpa Chavan holds tradition close but gives them a modern outlook. For example, underneath the deconstructed saris she used men’s shirts, and instead of ornamental jewellery being made in gold metals it was presented in perspex. In fact, according to the designer, this indecision between the traditional and the contemporary was behind the title of her first London Fashion Week outing – I hope there will be more!

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 by Daisy Steele

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 by Daisy Steele

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Little Shilpa S/S 2014 presentation. All photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,accessories, ,Claire Kearns, ,Daisy Steele, ,Fashion Scout, ,Goddess, ,Grey Matter, ,Headpiece, ,jewellery, ,LFW Presentation, ,Little Shilpa, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lynne Datson, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Mumbai, ,Perspex, ,Sari, ,Shilpa Chavan, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Tradition

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Amelia’s Magazine | The Sounds of Ghost Folk: an interview with Samuel Mason of Die Man Die

Die Mason Die by Daisy Steele
Die Mason Die by Daisy Steele.

Die Mason Die describe themselves as ‘Making ghost like noises with bearded grins‘ and they are set to make major waves on the UK music scene with the release of new single You’re Lonely, accompanied by a dreamy video featuring a little girl, metaphorical fish and exploding patterns of animated colour. You’re Lonely perfectly showcases the woozy vocals of singer Samuel Mason, and it’s a fine example of what they term Ghost Folk. I spoke with Samuel to find out more.

What prompted the creation of You’re Lonely? Can you tell me the story of the tune…
I wrote You’re Lonely at 17. It was a simple song written acoustically about the pendulum swing of dynamics in a certain relationship. I felt it had a lot of space to build a strong bed of textures and create a strong sense of character for each section. Our producer Bryan Wilson helped us to achieve the lush sound we were looking for and we really enjoyed the freedom of throwing everything into it and seeing what stuck.
Die Mason Die
What typifies ‘Ghost Folk’? 
The tag was coined as something not too constraining and slightly intriguing. We’re just as interested in soundscapes and textures as we are in the powerful, traditional aspect of folk music. The personal aspect more than the ideological. Much of our live set is as much about the atmosphere as the song. Although some of our melodies and progression have their roots in folk, I wouldn’t say we’re a folk band. Folk has odd connotations these days and what passes as folk isn’t really folk music as we understand it. We wanted to show our debt to it nonetheless.

When did you start creating music, and what were your early inspirations?
I started writing when I was about 13, I was heavily into progressive rock. Bands like Pink Floyd, Rush and Mars Volta. So up until about 17, I was writing sprawling 15 minute epics, they were pretty dreadful. I started listening to Tom Waits, Waylon Jennings, The Band (to name a few) and quickly fell out of love with the 15 minute prog behemoths and started writing actual songs.
Die Mason Die by Shoga Studio
Die Mason Die by Shoga Studio.

How did you hook up with the other members of Die Mason Die? 
Stefan was running a bar with his brother and I knew his musical skills from his days with Citadels. George and I went to secondary school together in Sydney and Dave and I met through a friend who knew we were on the lookout for a drummer. It came together very quickly and we’d recorded a live EP within a few weeks.
How did you come to be living in London, and what do you most miss about Australia?
I only lived in Australia for around 4 years after moving there from North Wales so it was never truly home. Most of my family are still over there so it’s been a long time since I’ve seen them, but three years ago I felt I should move to London to pursue music.

YouTube Preview Image
What can viewers expect from your ‘cult travel documentary?’
My friend Jordan Cross put together the trip, it was simple, 12 friends on a 1950′s double-decker driving across the globe from London to Sydney, it was an experience like no other and I’m just excited to see the film as anyone else. There is an ocean of footage so it’s still in the editing stages. Our video for Lost was shot during the trip when we were in India.

Die Mason Die - You're Lonely Artwork
What next from Die Mason Die?
3rd September is our single launch hosted and released by Young and Lost. Then it’ll be a combination of live shows, plans for the next release and constant development for the rest of the year and beyond. We haven’t been together for a year yet so we are just pushing forward, keeping our heads down and staying out of trouble. There’s lots of exciting news to come.

You’re Lonely comes out on the 9th September with Young & Lost Club. Details of the launch party at the Seabright Arms can be found below:

Die Mason Die launch party invite

Categories ,australia, ,Bryan Wilson, ,Citadels, ,Daisy Steele, ,Die Mason Die, ,folk, ,Ghost Folk, ,interview, ,Jordan Cross, ,Lost, ,music, ,Seabright Arms, ,Shoga Studio, ,The Band, ,Tom Waits, ,wales, ,Waylon Jennings

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Amelia’s Magazine | Johanna Glaza: Letter to New York – Review and Interview

Johanna Glaza by Daisy Steele
Johanna Glaza by Daisy Steele.

Letter to New York is a stunning showcase for multi-instrumentalist Johanna Glaza, channeling the vocal gymnastics of Kate Bush and the idiosyncratic song structures of Philip Glass. Here she tells us more about her songwriting influences and process.

Johanna Glaza portrait
Which musicians have inspired you most, and why?
My bible is Henryk Gorecki’s Symphony N3. I heard it for the first time a few years ago and it had such a profound influence on me,as if it cut me into tiniest bits and pieces in order to make something completely new. At the time of recording my first EP I was listening to Philip Glass. When I heard him I thought- oh my god, this guy ripped off my future ideas I would have had by the age of 60 or so ;). Letter to New York came from endless plays of Ravel’s Sheherazade. Listening to it, I imagined not a boring opera diva but some mysterious creature living in a completely unreal world, singing with such unhuman longing. It sounded so unfamiliar I wanted to take this vibe to the contemporary scene. Recently I have discovered Arvo Part, so I guess the next record will have his imprint.

Johanna Glaza by AmeliaGrace
Johanna Glaza by Amelia Grace.

How many instruments do you play and what is your current favourite?
I taught myself to play piano, keys and ukulele. I even attempted a bit of glockenspiel on my recent record. Each time I try out a new instrument I feel like a kid, it gives me freedom of being not perfect. Different songs inspire different instruments. Piano for me is a very independent instrument with a very strong voice of its own, sometimes it feels like a battle of egos when I try to sing to it. So I choose ukulele for more intimate songs. I love how it sounds like a little harp at times. But my top favourite instrument will always be my voice. There’s just so much you can do with your voice. On one of my tracks I used it as a percussive instrument. On others it served me as a ghostly choir. There’s no distance between you and the instrument, you are the instrument yourself when you sing.

Johanna Glaza the tree
What prompted your intriguing song structures, and how are they created?
Well, I sort of always struggled with writing songs of conventional structures. The ironic thing is the harder I tried to make them conventional, the more I’ve been scolded by my first listeners for their complicity. So one day I gave up and decided to try whatever comes instinctively to me, even if I can’t understand it myself. When I wrote Letter to New York I wanted to stay faithful to the linear structure of the letter, because the letter itself can’t be repetitive. So I wrote the words first, and then sat down and sang them to a simple piano riff, and kept all the bits and pieces that came then. I was so surprised when my brother, who is my harshest critic, rejoiced that finally this song’s structure has made sense to him. I was like, you kidding me, it makes hardly any sense to me now!

JohannaGlaza_LetterToNewYork cover
Why did you want to write a Letter to New York?
To be honest I can’t remember how it came to be. I guess just like with all messages or letters sometimes we have this urge to speak to the person, we grab a phone or a pen so spontaneously. Only in my case it was the place itself I wanted to connect with. I missed New York. My first solo shows took place in that City, it gave me courage to do what I do now. Sometimes I felt so isolated in the basement studio when working on the record, I had to remind myself about the place that inspired me the most, my glass kingdom.

What is your favourite bit of the big Apple?
L trains on the subway. My friend called it the beautiful people line. So true! I met so many beautiful people on L trains and heard some of the most unusual music from busking musicians. Forget about the old tired covers you hear in London. People play mainly their own tunes there, and with an open layout of two way platforms it’s a perfect spot to gather a crowd. I can’t tell you how many times I missed my train to be able hear one more song. And I was never the only one do so.

How did you make the video for Letter to New York? any challenges or best bits?
I’ve chosen to shoot the video in a very wild, uninhibited place in Lithuania called The Dead Dunes. It is a very special place on the coast. No one is allowed to walk there, but a few years ago a local woman showed me the secret path to the dunes. Anyone could be transfixed by the complete solitude there. I imagined this is a place where the main 3 characters of the song – Black Crow, Koyote and the mysterious Wind – could meet. But a week before the filming there was a huge fire in the nearby forest. It’s a miracle we managed to get there at all, and when we did it was an alien world, all black dust. We felt there had to be another scene of the rebirth in the sea. I was with a dream team of crazy inspired people, you see. It was +2C outside, everyone was wearing winter jackets and I went into the sea to be reborn. I would do it again if you ask.

Letter to New York by Johanna Glaza is out now and can be bought here. Catch Johanna Glaza play live in London for free on 11th September at The Finsbury.

Categories ,Amelia Grace, ,Arvo Part, ,Black Crow, ,Daisy Steele, ,ep, ,Henryk Gorecki, ,Johanna Glaza, ,Kate Bush, ,Koyote, ,L trains, ,Letter to New York, ,new york, ,Philip Glass, ,Ravel, ,review, ,Sheherazade, ,Symphony N3, ,The Dead Dunes, ,The Finsbury, ,wind

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