Amelia’s Magazine | Shao Yen AW15: London Fashion Week Backstage Photos

Shao Yen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
On Friday I went backstage at a few shows to capture the scenes as the models got ready for their shows. At Shao Yen the girls were dressed in striped sheers, casual pleats and knit ruffles in a collection which explored the structures of ribs, muscles and blood vessels, inspired by the painter Egon Schiele. Yen created a sophisticated selection of garments with subtle details such as a curled embroidery stitch beneath the bosom. I caught the girls as they pushed enormous knit covered hoops through their ears, a bold style statement that worked well with the multiple topknots on their heads.

Shao Yen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Shao Yen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Shao Yen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Shao Yen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,AW15, ,Egon Schiele, ,Shao Yen

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Amelia’s Magazine | Soojin Lee AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 20
Stark red eye make up accompanied the colourful designs paraded down the catwalk by Soojin Lee. On closer inspection Art Deco-esque designs revealed repeat patterns made up of bullets, rippled metal panels and fighter planes. Here was another designer with war on the mind (see also Jean-Pierre Braganza). Scarfs at the neck echoed an older era of war, as did lady-like crop waist jackets and delicately ruffled shirts worn with dainty floral pleat skirts, creating elegance in a time of great unrest. At the back of her look book Soojin Lee states ‘Pray for peace and protection for everyone…

Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 11
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 16
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 14
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 29
Soojin Lee AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 26
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Soojin Lee AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Show report, ,Soojin Lee

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Amelia’s Magazine | Youjia Jin AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 9
Everything about the Youjia Jin collection was well considered. Perfect tailoring was given a unique and fanciful twist, deftly playing with usual proportions and stylistic norms. A coat appeared one thing from the front and another from the back, with a swishing cape attached to a smartly tailored jacket. Sheer was combined with wool, cable knit provided detail on a pleated suit dress and gossamer light cascading ruffles adorned skirt waists, sleeves and hems. A traditional single breasted suit collar became the main feature on a coat dress. My favourite piece was a beautiful pinstripe wrap over dress that flared elegantly over a dark underskirt: so flattering and different.

Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 1
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 17
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 38
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 45
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 37
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Youjia Jin AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Show report, ,Youjia Jin

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Amelia’s Magazine | Mimi Tran AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 54
San Francisco based fashion designer Mimi Tran launched her brand just a few years ago after a former career in Silicon Valley, and chose the Fashion Scout catwalk for the first time this season to showcase a collection which oozed red carpet glamour: think sheer column dresses with wasp waists covered in extravagant embellishments in a palette of black, white, gold, red and royal blue. The Vietnamese born designer shares a curious resemblance (and name) with a very successful US based poker player who has made over a million dollars to date… are they in fact one and the same? Did she use her poker money to reinvent herself and realise a childhood dream of being a fashion designer? Or maybe the similarity is merely a coincidence. I would love to know…

Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 11
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 32
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 14
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 41
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 28
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Mimi Tran AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,Catwalk review, ,Fashion Scout, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mimi Tran, ,paris, ,Poker Player, ,review, ,San Francisco, ,Show report, ,Vietnamese

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Amelia’s Magazine | Minnan Hui AW15: London Fashion Week Backstage Photos and Catwalk Video

Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
At Minnan Hui the girls perused their mobile phones as they waited to dress for the final walk through. Hair was brushed into messy mini French plaits behind cute coloured braids, and they wore amazing geisha style metallic platforms with socks and further braids at their ankles. Pandora’s Box was inspired by the Greek myth, so the collection was focused on decorative packaging, with extravagant silhouettes and bold use of ribbon details and bright prints.

Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui shoes
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I wasn’t able to stay for the catwalk show but was thankful for a backstage peek at this fun clothing. Watch the video below to see the full collection in action.

Minnan Hui AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,AW15, ,backstage, ,Fashion Scout, ,Minnan Hui, ,Pandora’s Box

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Amelia’s Magazine | Orla Kiely AW15: London Fashion Week Presentation Review

Orla Kiely AW15 Daisy Steele
Orla Kiely AW15 by Daisy Steele.

This season Orla Kiely looked to library chic, sending the girls out to meander around artfully recreated shelves, stairs and wooden tables inside the Vinyl Factory. Mixing up the decades with silhouettes inspired by the 60s and 70s, this was a beautiful collection of wearable clothes set off by signature Orla Kiely prints, this time inspired by maths and geometry. Lemon yellow and pale peach were worn with workaday beige and schoolgirl greys, boxy shapes matched with more romantic flowing fabrics. Once again Orla Kiely has collaborated with Clarks on a beautiful range of highly desirable shoes. The gold sparkle Orla Abigail is on my particular wish list.

Orla Kiely LFW By Faye West
Orla Kiely AW15 By Faye West.

Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 2
Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 4
Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 4
Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 5
Orla Kiely AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 1
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ali Macgraw, ,AW15, ,Clarks, ,Daisy Steele, ,Faye West, ,Library Chic, ,Love Story, ,Orla Abigail, ,Orla Kiely, ,review, ,Vinyl Factory

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Amelia’s Magazine | Rejina Pyo AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 5
Rejina Pyo chose an off schedule venue with intense wood panelling, the sense of intrigue heightened with rocks strewn about the darkened room. The same organic shapes were echoed in glittery foil prints on a selection of beautifully tailored jackets, 60s inspired skirt suits and drainpipe trousers. Cute day dresses were woven with strips of golden fabric, gold went all over in a stunning velvety denim cut suit, and dramatic sheers brought a touch of evening glamour for the more daring.

Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 12
Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 15
Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 22
Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 23
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,Rejina Pyo, ,review, ,Show report

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week AW15 Exhibition Stands Report including Fashion Scout and Me London

Typical Freaks
In my final AW15 London Fashion Week round up I take a peek at a few of the designers on the stands. At Fashion Scout I got chatting to Sonia Xiao of Typical Freaks, which is a collaborative project with partner Seun Ade-Onojobi. The new collection was inspired by the chaos of dog shows and features baggy layer able hand painted and embellished clothing in pastel brights. Loved it!

Cats Brothers pompoms
At the main London Fashion Week stands my eye was immediately attracted to this massive coat covered with pompoms by Cats Brothers, who specialise in heavily embellished garments that strike a statement.

Pitchouguina
This season Pitchouguina was obsessed with drawing hands, adding unusual statement embroideries such as this to the front of garments.

Emma Shipley
The Emma J Shipley luxury scarf brand goes from strength to strength thanks to her detailed drawing skills and eye for beautiful colour combinations. She recently collaborated with Disney to produce a special Tinkerbell range, profiled on her excellent blog.

Achtland flamingos
Achtland is brand new to LFW, founded by German duo Oliver Luhr and Thomas Bentz but now headquartered in London. I absolutely adored this fun flamingo applique sweat top from the latest collection.

Sadie Williams flowers
Sadie Williams clothing
I love the work of New Gen designer Sadie Williams, who specialises in the application of fancy textiles techniques such as quilting and applique, combined with sheers in a signature bright metallic palette. Love the quirky flower arrangement too.

Min Wu
Min Wu earrings
The new collection by Min Wu features supercute details like these metallic pocket ruffles. Her 3D printed earrings can be made in any colour way and featuring removable spinning interiors.

JD Cruz bags
As a former textile designer I was attracted to the fabulous colourful splashes on these printed leather bags by JD Cruz.

Beautiful Soul lollipops
At the Fashion at Me London showcase I caught up with Nicola Woods of Beautiful Soul, whose floral covered collections grow ever stronger. Loved the stand covered in false hydrangeas and featuring these fabric covered lollies.

Frank by David Longshaw
This little guy is called Frank, the newest character created by fashion designer David Longshaw, who skilfully combines illustration and fashion design to create unique garments.

Vielma dark tales
Finally, Vielma showcased new collection Dark Tales in the bitterly cold entrance to the hotel, featuring expert tailoring and skeleton prints.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,Achtland, ,AW15, ,Beautiful Soul, ,Cats Brothers, ,Dark Tales, ,David Longshaw, ,Emma J Shipley, ,Fashion at Me London, ,Fashion Scout, ,Frank, ,JD Cruz, ,London Fashion Week, ,me london, ,Min Wu, ,New Gen, ,Nicola Woods, ,Oliver Luhr, ,Pitchouguina, ,Sadie Williams, ,Seun Ade-Onojobi, ,Show report, ,Sonia Xiao, ,Thomas Bentz, ,Typical Freaks, ,Vielma

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week AW15 Exhibition Stands Report: Jewellery

Imogen Belfield jurassic ring
After nearly 20 years of attending London Fashion Week and supporting emerging designers the British Fashion Council denied me a press pass for the exhibition stands because I forgot to register online (it went to spam mail). After conferring with a manager upstairs I was told that my website was ‘not influential enough’ to warrant a pass and I should reapply next season, which is pretty galling given the amount of time I have spent promoting designers in Amelia’s Magazine over the past decade, many at the start of their careers. The only way I was allowed in was to drag a designer out from the stands so that I could be allocated a plastic wrist band as a visiting friend. Thanks for the show of appreciation for all my hard work BFC!

Jewellery has become a major fixture at the exhibition stands, so there is loads to report on. Read on if you love jewels as much as I do.

Imogen Belfield
Much gratitude to the lovely Imogen Belfield for leaving her stand in the Rock Vault to sort me out with an exhibition pass. Her new collection is amazing as ever, featuring rough diamonds, black diamonds and an array of new fine metals as well as solid gold pieces designed to appeal to her Far Eastern markets. Her chunky Jurassic ring (at the top) is chock full of rough diamonds. Yum yum! Read my first interview with Imogen Belfield here, we’ll be doing a catch up Q&A soon.

Alice Cicolini
This season Alice Cicolini (read more in this round up here) showcased a concise new collection named Summer Snow, featuring fine quartz crystals which spin on the inside and outside, with precious gems such as tourmaline and sapphire in the centres. So different and beautiful.

Ornella Ianuzzi
Also in the Rock Vault I was wowed by jewellery from Ornella Iannuzzi for the first time. These opal cage earrings feature a beautiful round gemstone that rolls around inside a gold shape inspired by the Platonic Solids. Find out more about Ornella in my upcoming interview.

Goddess Aviator goddess aviator
This gigantic Goddess Aviator showpiece by art jewellers Yunus and Eliza is not for the faint hearted! What an awesome piece.

Shimell and Madden
We first met Shimell and Madden way back in 2011, so it was nice to see them now doing so well – I love the new collection, featuring these unusual cabochon garnets and finely set diamonds.

This is what they do! Stratus rain earrings dancing away at Rock Vault

A video posted by Jo Hayes Ward (@johayesward) on


Jo Hayes-Ward has not let a new baby get in the way of her prolific output, first profiled in Amelia’s Magazine in 2010 – creating swathes of new designs in her signature building block style. An inspiration to us all! These earrings dance so beautifully, as shown in her video. Just imagine them in the ear! Magnificent.

Beth Gilmour
Beth Gilmour is a Cockpit Arts based designer, I absolutely adore her Dichroma Collection, featuring bi coloured gemstones set in similarly toned metals.

Lily Kamper
Lily Kamper enamel pendants
Moving on to other rooms… Lily Kamper has also been busy creating a vast new collection, including this glorious pendant in her colourful Art Deco style. Also new for this season are new abstract enamel initial pendants, which she began sketching out last season.

Kattri pendant
This bold pendant comes from the new Assymetry collection by Kattri – find out more about designer Amanda Gerbasi in my recent interview here.

Ruifier face pendants
So sweet and unusual: these gem face pendants are by Ruifier, which is the new jewellery brand from Central Saint Martins graduate Rachel Shaw. Her distinct pieces feature precious gems in layerable designs that marry wit with luxury.

Alighieri
Alighieri is Dante inspired jewellery from Oxford University graduate Rosh Mahtani, who set up her brand in 2013 with no formal training but a burning desire to translate her love of literature into jewels.

Eshvi bracelet
This bracelet by Eshvi showcases the brand’s individual aesthetic, featuring chunky resin shapes in bold designs.

Brooke Gregson constellation pendants
Brooke Gregson is another designer who is new to me. The American designer works with some fabulous boulder opals and her Astrology collection is such a unique and wonderful idea.

Ros Millar rings
These gothic rings are from Ros Millar, also based in the Cockpit Arts studio, and whose work I admired a few years ago at the Treasure Jewellery Show.

Kirsty Ward
Kirsty Ward necklace
It’s always a joy to catch up with Kirsty Ward, especially since she hasn’t show at London Fashion Week for a few seasons. As well as churning out a full collection of clothing her jewellery range has also grown hugely since she first started out with Fashion Scout. I absolutely adore her unique statement pieces.

Only Child necklace
Over with Black PR I discovered these serious druzies on a chunky gold chain by Only Child.

Gina Melosi
Designer Gina Melosi (discovered last year at the Off Strand showcase) specialises in ethical jewellery, creating distinctive looks such as this raw beehive geometric design on a necklace.

More from the stands soon…

Categories ,Alice Cicolini, ,Alighieri, ,Amanda Gerbasi, ,Assymetry, ,Astrology, ,AW15, ,Beth Gilmour, ,Black PR, ,british fashion council, ,Brooke Gregson, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Cockpit Arts, ,Dichroma Collection, ,Eshvi, ,Exhibition Stands Report, ,Fashion Scout, ,Fine Jewellery, ,Gina Melosi, ,Goddess Aviator, ,Imogen Belfield, ,jewellery, ,Jo Hayes-Ward, ,Jurassic, ,Kattri, ,Kirsty Ward, ,Lily Kamper, ,London Fashion Week, ,Millar, ,Off Strand, ,Only Child, ,Ornella Iannuzzi, ,Oxford University, ,Platonic Solids, ,Rachel Shaw, ,Rock Vault, ,Rosh Mahtani, ,Ruifier, ,Shimell and Madden, ,Summer Snow, ,Treasure Jewellery Show, ,Yunus and Eliza

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week AW15 Fashion Illustrations

Vivienne Westwood Red Label LFW by Sara Netherway
Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW15 by Sara Netherway.

This year, instead of accompanying individual show reviews with fashion illustrations I decided to do something a bit different and open up the brief: inviting illustrators to send me their interpretation of any look from any of the London Fashion Week shows that took place, whether on or off schedule. Here are the results, all in one place. I hope you enjoy them!

Temperley-by-Emma-Farrarons
Temperley AW15 by Emma Farrarons.

SophiaWebster AW15 by_KatSquire_03
Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire.

Minnan Hui AW15 Karolina Burdon
Minnan Hui AW15 by Karolina Burdon.

BURBERRY by EUGENIA_TSIMIKLIS_LO
Burberry AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis.

Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire
Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire.

Burberry AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis
Burberry AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis.

Antonio Berardi by Jordana Globerman
Antonio Berardi AW15 by Jordana Globerman.

Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire
Sophia Webster AW15 by Kat Squire.

MATTHEW_WILLIAMSON AW15 by EUGENIA_TSIMIKLIS_LO
Matthew Williamson AW15 by Eugenia Tsimiklis.

Burberry Prorsum by Jordana Globerman
Burberry Prorsum AW15 by Jordana Globerman.

AW15 London Fashion Week Alice Temperley 480pix by Kasia Dudziuk
Alice Temperley AW15 by Kasia Dudziuk.

Orla Kiely AW15 by Lydia Coventry
Orla Kiely AW15 by Lydia Coventry.

Minnan Hui AW15 by Isabelle Mattern2
Minnan Hui AW15 by Isabelle Mattern2
Minnan Hui AW15 by Isabelle Mattern.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label by Sara Netherway
Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW15 by Sara Netherway.

Phoebe English by Laura Wilson
Phoebe English AW15 by Laura Wilson.

Daisy Steele Holly Fulton AW15
Holly Fulton AW15 by Daisy Steele.

Mary Katrantzou AW15 by  Iris van Gelder LFW
Mary Katrantzou AW15 by Iris van Gelder.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,Antonio Berardi, ,AW15, ,Burberry, ,Daisy Steele, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Eugenia Tsimiklis, ,Fashion Illustrations, ,Iris van Gelder, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,Jordana Globerman, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Kasia Dudziuk, ,Kat Squire, ,Laura Wilson, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lydia Coventry, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Minnan Hui, ,Phoebe English, ,Sara Netherway, ,Sophia Webster, ,Temperley, ,Vivienne Westwood Red Label

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