Amelia’s Magazine | Little Women AW15: an interview with Renli Su

Renli Su by Bonaramis
Renli Su AW15 by Bonaramis.

Chinese born designer Renli Su first caught my eye when her collection appeared on the catwalk as one of the Fashion Scout Ones to Watch crew in 2013. The designer explores the idea of Time and Memory, with each season expanding and developing on this theme. For SS15 and AW15 she has been inspired by the tale of Little Women, resulting in two ‘strong yet feminine’ collections that reflect the typical dress sense of elegant and charming girls living in the mid-late 19th century.

Renli Su AW15
Renli Su AW15
Where did you train in fashion design and what was your biggest design inspiration growing up?
I began studying painting and then completed BA Fashion Design at the Central Academy of Fine Arts in Beijing. Being surrounded by artists I found an appreciation for fabric as a material for my work, which is where my fashion education began. After my BA, I came to London to study MA Fashion Design and Technology Women’s wear at London College of Fashion, and I’ve been based in London ever since.

Renli Su AW15
Renli Su AW15
How did you first start researching the Little Women collections?
The most part of my research came from my travels. The materials used were Chinese Summer Fabric, Indian hand-woven cotton, Indian black print cotton and Irish innovative cotton linen, so this meant I spent time in all of these countries, finding the fabrics and exploring the traditional techniques used to create them.

Renli Su AW15
I source fabrics from all over the world. For AW15, again I used the four materials that made up the SS15 collection, but I also added Tibetan Yak Wool and Chinese Silk. I am passionate about sourcing and reviving traditional techniques from different parts of the world as each of the materials are made in a different way and I meet interesting people who have dedicated their lives to creating these fabrics, it’s something I want to explore further.

Renli Su AW15
Renli Su AW15
What have been the biggest hurdles in terms of getting the collections together?
There is a lot of research involved in the early stages and then in the later stages it requires a lot of dedication to create a collection that will stand the test of time in elegance, cut and quality.

Renli Su AW15
Renli Su AW15
Where can your garments be bought?
Young British Designers in the UK, Dongliang in Shanghai, China, Dongliang in Beijing, China and Berween in Changsha, China. And of course online from www.renlisu.com.

Categories ,AW15, ,beijing, ,Berween, ,Bonaramis, ,Central Academy of Fine Arts, ,Dongliang, ,Ecofashion, ,ethical, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,interview, ,Kristel Pent, ,Little Women, ,London College of Fashion, ,Ones To Watch, ,organic, ,Renli Su, ,SS15, ,Time and Memory, ,young british designers

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Scout AW15: An interview with Typical Freaks

Typical Freaks by Bonaramis
Typical Freaks AW15 by Bonaramis.

One of my most exciting discoveries at the AW15 Fashion Scout exhibition stands was the work of design duo Seun Ade-Onojobi and Sonia Xiao, who together are Typical Freaks. Their new collection takes inspiration from the unlikely world of dog pageants, an adjunct to the more serious initial inspiration of politics.

Typical Freaks by Louise Andersone
Typical Freaks by Louise Andersone.

Typical_Freaks_AW2015-19
How did your partnership happen, and how does it work when you are designing a new collection?
We both enjoy colour, print and texture but we have different ways of approaching design. We felt like this slightly ying and yang philosophy in the design process would create something new and exciting. When we begin a new collection we will think of things we are interested in at the moment, or unusual books are trinkets we have found, and research around that theme. We then try and find ways to implement antithetical influences that will make the overall aesthetic a bit more disjointed and nuanced.

Typical_Freaks_AW2015-12
Typical_Freaks_AW2015-5
You’ve been producing clothing for some time now, what prompted the decision to showcase your wares at LFW this season?
We had been working on slightly more commercial clothing for a while and felt like we needed a platform to showcase our vision of fashion to a wider audience. We felt like there is a space in the industry for a bit more humour, colour and fashion which does not take itself too seriously.

Typical_Freaks_AW2015-4
When did you decide to focus on dog shows for AW15, and where did you find the best imagery?
The collection was initially a lot more political. The rosettes came from looking at a lot of right wing politics. We felt the collection was becoming a bit too overtly dark and serious. We always try and keep in mind that there should be some element of humour and maintain our ‘kawaii-punk‘ aesthetic. We then thought about the other uses for rosettes and began looking at dog shows. We got imagery from studying dogs with their owners in general life, researching crufts and the kennel club, and of course the film ‘Best in Show‘ which tonally, was perfect for our collection.

Typical_Freaks_AW2015-9
You have also imagined a fictitious female character who streaks at football matches – where does she fit into the picture?
We envisaged this woman would create an outwardly veil of conservative restraint, but would probably be quite freaky underneath. The big trench coats throughout the collection were symbolic o the streaking/flashing concept we began with.

Typical_Freaks_AW2015-8
What caught my eye at Fashion Scout was the great attention to application that is present throughout the collection, can you detail some of the techniques you have used?
We used a lot of painting techniques inspired by well known artists. The overall aesthetic of the dogs was influenced by Warhol’s animal prints for example. We used screen printing, painted with palette knives and hand painting – with brushes, sponges and our actual hands.

Typical_Freaks_AW2015-18
What were the most time consuming elements to create?
The Backing Cloth Trench Coats took the longest. They are made from the fabric we used to protect the table during screen printing. We have had these fabrics for almost a year, and they are built up with layers of print, hand paint and our design sketches throughout that time.

Typical_Freaks_AW2015-6
What kind of person wears Typical Freaks?
They are usually quite confident, like colour, don’t mind a bit of attention and don’t take themselves too seriously.

Categories ,AW15, ,Best in Show, ,Bonaramis, ,Fashion Scout, ,kawaii-punk, ,Kristel Pent, ,Louise Andersone, ,Lulu and the Lampshades, ,Seun Ade-Onojobi, ,Sonia Xiao, ,Typical Freaks

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Scout Ones to Watch AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Ones to Watch J Moon AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Korean designer and London College of Fashion graduate J Moon opened Ones to Watch with a concise and appealing collection of intricately quilted garments in subtle colours of indigo, camel, lemon and burnt orange.

Ones to Watch J Moon AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch J Moon AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch J Moon AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Relaxed boxy, A-line, caped and wrap over shapes lent the clothing a relaxed air, along with comfortable wedge soled slip on shoes. Accessories came in the form of matching patchwork bags in a variety of shapes and wonderful big geometric stud earrings.

Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Next up fellow Korean Minju Kim was a firm favourite with the audience: perhaps because of her already impressive profile as an up and coming fashion designer.

Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Minju Kim AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Hero’s Eyes was based on a roster of 1980s super heroes with magical powers, and the designer’s interpretation included pastel silk cut out princess party dresses worn with folk inspired flower tiaras, panelled knitwear in dashing shapes worn with pointy beanie hats, and cartoon prints on shirting and dresses. Of particular note were the wonderful shiny high heeled shoes with ears and bows: it seems shoes are an increasingly important part of a young designer’s offering.

Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Angel Chen is a Central Saint Martins graduate. Her romantic yet rebellious vision included a mash up of different influences, materials and even gender.

Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Angel Chen AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Painterly textiles were worn by both girls and boys, as were patchwork tweeds, and extravagant ruffled layers, ripped and tasselled. Clothing was accessorised with fabric hats, shrubbery, extended twig hands and even a giant golden foil gun. A bold and unusual vision with some appealing garments underneath the styling.

Ones to Watch Kim Stevenson AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Australian designer Kim Stevenson works under the brand name Autonomous.

Ones to Watch Kim Stevenson AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Kim Stevenson AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Kim Stevenson AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Kim Stevenson AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
She presented a streetwise collection which married urban styling with woven panels and appliqué, all done using ethically sourced textiles. Denim was given extra texture with floral patches, and models wore high tasseled cossack hats and multi layered rope necklaces.

Another stellar line up from the Fashion Scout crew. Watch the catwalk shows below:

Ones To Watch: J Moon AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Ones To Watch: Minju Kim AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Ones To Watch: Angel Chen AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Ones To Watch: Kim Stevenson AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,Angel Chen, ,Autonomous, ,AW15, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Hero’s Eyes, ,J Moon, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Minju Kim, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,Show report

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ikebana AW15: An interview with fashion designer Sadie Williams

Sadie Williams by Bonaramis
Sadie Williams by Bonaramis.

Fashion designer Sadie Williams was inspired by the 1962 Best of Ikebana book on Japanese flower arranging to create a bold and innovative AW15 collection that features multiple textile techniques and a glorious mash up of fabrics. Here she tells us more…

Sadie Williams AW15
Where did you study on BA and MA and what were the best aspects of your courses?
BA in Fashion Design at Brighton. Best aspects were the technical training this gave you, and the amazing tutorship of Jane Shepherd, who introduced us young, clueless first years to many many brilliant and inspiring aspects to this vast industry. She also and helped us to develop into stronger designers, and taught us that we should be unafraid of creating something extreme, bizarre or seemingly ‘anti-fashion’.

Sadie Williams AW15
MA on the ‘Textiles For Fashion’ pathway of the MA Fashion course at Central Saint Martins. This is where I finally felt like I found ‘my thing’, through lots of learning through mistakes! It was tough, but the best thing I have ever done. I feel honoured to have been taught by my textile tutor Fleet and the late great Louise Wilson.

Sadie Williams AW15
You’ve been much feted since your MA collection caught imaginations, what has been the best outcome of this?
Being able to continue working creatively and express myself and my vision, sometimes this is in collaboration with another brand or project and more recently under my own label. I have also loved being able to travel and meet so many brilliant people along the way. It’s all still very much a learning curve.

Sadie Williams AW15
Your collections are defined by sleek silhouettes, what is it about such graphic shapes that appeals to you?
For me, I really focus on creating the textiles, often quite laboured (multi-layered, printed, quilted, appliqued, embossed etc). I love clean simple silhouettes and feel that partnering them with my textiles is both cool and necessary way to present my work in a stronger and clearer way, and avoid the danger of fussy garments being overworked or theatrical.

Sadie Williams AW15
How do you source so many different types of metallic fabrics?
Always on the look-out! But also, I create a lot of different metallic fabrications through altering/re-working existing fabrics using various techniques, for example bonding shimmering transparent fabrics over satins or lurex, weaving metallic ribbons into fabrics, or stiffening flimsy loose-weave lurex by embossing and bonding it.

Sadie Williams AW15
What fabrics are your favourite kind to work with and why?
I think it’s clear that I rather like lurex! But honestly, I just really love working with all sorts of textiles. I love being set a project/job where I have to work with a fabric that I wouldn’t normally select myself, for example, one of my favourite projects form the CSM MA was working with lace, which I doubt I would ever have considered before.

Sadie Williams AW15
I understand you are in the process of moving studios, where is the new one and what would we see if we came to visit?
It’s in East London, Haggerston, right by the canal! There’s a lot of rolls of fabric! Shelves full of books and mags, lots of portfolio boxes, my heat-press, sublimation printer sewing machine, mannequin etc. Lots of crafty things like wire, plasticine, coloured acetates and tons of different kinds of papers (which I often use for making our animations). All the things I need to do what I do!

Sadie Williams AW15
I loved your latest collection, inspired by Ikebana flower arrangements, what was the process of translating the Best of Ikebana books into wearable garments?
It was more the idea of translating the spirit of those beautiful 1960’s images of floral arrangements into my work, rather than a visual translation. I liked the way that they were subtly vibrant, and very playful and fun yet so composed and still at the same time. I hope that makes sense! I worked with my friend Georgina Norris to create accompanying floral arrangements using the leathers that were featured in my collection, so we used these in my installation spaces at London and Paris fashion week, and I always intended to pair them up with imagery of my garments into a printed and digital lookbook.

How did you include techniques such as weaving, quilting and applique?
I wove together some brilliant vintage Indian ribbons that I sourced from a market stall in Shepherds Bush. In fact I bought up all his stock! I appliqued these as decorative patched onto the fronts of tops. I also used applique to apply metallic leather onto fine silk-prganza, which was actually pretty tricky and took a lot of sampling. It’s a multi-step process involving machine-sewing the leather and organza between layers of a specialist translucent quilting paper, which you can then tear away. I quilted a few lurex garments, by sewing around the print design through lyers of wadding and onto a backing fabric.

Sadie Williams AW15
Do you have any other collaborations with your brother Joe Williams on the horizon?
He is currently on a trip travelling for a few months, but we have an agent, and so when the right projects come up and we are both available, then yes! And I would love to work with him again to illustrate some of my own work again in the near future.

What’s next for Sadie Williams, can we expect another full collection next season and if so can you give us a clue about your new inspiration?
I am definitely going to be applying for NewGen sponsorship again for SS16, so fingers crossed! And I am afraid I’m going to keep my lips sealed at the moment!

Categories ,AW15, ,Best of Ikebana, ,Bonaramis, ,Central Saint Martins, ,East London, ,Fleet, ,Georgina Norris, ,Haggerston, ,Ikebana, ,interview, ,Jane Shepherd, ,japanese, ,Joe Williams, ,Louise Wilson, ,Lurex, ,Metallic, ,Newgen, ,Sadie Williams, ,University of Brighton

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Amelia’s Magazine | James Hock introduces his AW15 New Basics collection

James Hock AW15 1
Malaysian born conceptual fashion designer James Hock creates ‘new basics’ which appear at first to be deceptively simple but on closer inspection reveal a host of tiny features which make them special. Here he describes the inspiration and process behind his new AW15 collection.

James Hock AW15 2
‘For AW15/16, I’ve maintained the concept of ‘new basics’, or unconventional basics, that the James Hock brand has come to be known for. I’ve played on the usual aesthetic and looked towards a sportier direction this season. I like the concept of the tracksuit or the matching two-piece and have created pieces that are in line with that but in a very simple, versatile style that are incredibly cosy – perfect for the chilly months – but that are still very luxurious. As always, fabrics throughout the collection are mainly natural – cotton, silk velvet and wool felt, but I’ve also used some polyester and lycra to emphasize on the ‘sports’ element. I think the outcomes have provided something coherent, but a little different to my usual style.

James Hock AW15 3
Most importantly, not just for AW15/16 but with everything I do, creating pieces that are gender neutral is important and that definitely come through with the strong, at times structured silhouettes – especially in items such as the wool felt jacket and the HOPE sweatshirt. I adorned pieces, including the hand finished envelope clutch bags, with the words LOVE and HOPE with the aim that customers, even myself, can interpret these words in their own way, and I also wanted the collection to have a positive energy when in the past, it has been a little heavy on melancholy. And of course, for our customers to feel comfortable in what they’re wearing and how they style pieces to their own taste is always essential.

James Hock AW15 4
Lastly, as with all my collections, I’ve created some great accessories that can be mixed and matched very easily, including some bunny ears or horns (depending on how you see it!) hand-knitted beanies that match the hand-knitted jumpers, and again, all our knitwear is made in England. As mentioned, we also have the LOVE and HOPE wool felt envelope clutches, which are individually treated so the finish for every bag is different.

James Hock AW15 5
We’ve had fantastic feedback so far, so I’m really excited for the coming season. The full collection will be available to purchase online later this year on the James Hock website at www.jameshock.com

Categories ,AW15, ,interview, ,James Hock, ,Malaysia, ,New Basics, ,unisex

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Amelia’s Magazine | Jamie Wei Huang AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 28
Jamie Wei Huang chose a hard vibe for A/W 2015, with a large collection titled Nymphomaniac sent down the catwalk to an ominous soundtrack of deep industrial metal. Her always androgynous tailoring was given a darker twist this season, with zips, tassels, wool insets and buckles used liberally throughout, hair worn greased across the face. A pearlescent fish scale textured top in cream with black stripes and pocket was a personal favourite; accessories were also a highlight, including crepe platform-heeled brogues in juicy patent, high wristed button gloves, clutch bags and tasselled backpacks. Blood red and intense blues were a welcome colour addition to a predominantly monochrome collection.

Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 17
Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 39
Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 20
Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 25
Jamie Wei Huang AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 48
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Jamie Wei Huang AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,Fashion Scout, ,Industrial, ,Jamie Wei Huang, ,London Fashion Week, ,Nymphomaniac, ,review

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Amelia’s Magazine | Jean-Pierre Braganza AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

JP Braganza AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

This season Jean-Pierre Braganza was inspired once more by strong women with Excelsiora, ’a modern incarnation of an exacting film noir vixen and a war-time heroine.’ Cue a plethora of structured winter coats in deep ink, claret and forest green, and signature sharp tailoring in bold runway stripes. Fighter jets inspired eye catching all over prints and detailed abstract embellishments on silky loose tee tops.

Georgina Trestler for JP Braganzav
Jean-Pierre Braganza AW15 by Georgina Trestler.

JP Braganza AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 7
JP Braganza AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 3
JP Braganza AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 26
JP Braganza AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 29
JP Braganza AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 22
TV presenter Lilah Parsons front row with friends.

Categories ,AW15, ,Catwalk review, ,Excelsiora, ,Georgina Trestler, ,Jean Pierre Braganza, ,Lilah Parsons, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Show report

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dans La Vie: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I have a huge soft spot for collections with art historical references. Print designer Rira Sugawara of Dans La Vie, who showed her A/W 2012 collection entitled Exciting Encounter at Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week, certainly delivered on that front. Aided by the mention of 60′s American pop art in the invitation the first image that sprang to mind after the first few models with brightly coloured wavy short hair strutted their stuff on the catwalk was Andy Warhol’s Marilyn prints. This made a lot of sense when only after the show I checked the Dans La Vie website where indeed it says that Andy Warhol is Rira Sugawara’s main inspiration.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Kris Keys

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Kris Keys

An ex Art History student the designer behind Dans La Vie managed to beautifully combine an array of pop art and art historical references in her complicated, busy and bold collage prints: Jasper Jones’ ‘Target’ painting from the late 60s, Roy Lichtenstein’s ‘Brush Stroke’ and ‘Explosion’ prints, as well as offcuts from Japanese prints were only a few of the ones I managed to recognise. Leonardo Da Vinci’s ‘Virgin of the Rocks’ – another Warhol reference – and cherubs, used before on print designs for previous collections – also made a reappearance.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Ailish Sullivan

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Ailish Sullivan

Jasper Jones’ purple and orange circle from the ‘Target’ painting was not only replicated on the clothes but was also turned into a striking and witty fascinator, which I thought was a great idea.

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax - Illustrated Moodboard

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax – Illustrated Moodboard

Dans la Vie AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Head to toe printed suits were belted with short or long coats created out of what appeared to be a thin vinyl material, which brought in an element of kitsch and reminded me of table-clothes in sunny summer gardens. So in the same way that American pop art mixed high and low culture Dans La Vie covered intricate prints with references to pop art artworks – which have now become high art – with a cheap looking, plastic material.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Deborah  Moon

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Deborah Moon

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

I am not usually one to notice trends too much, but since only a few days before attending the show I had stumbled across a piece in British Vogue about bold, brightly coloured clip-on hair pieces being all the rage at the moment, I could not help thinking the use of fluorescent hair strands in purple, green, pink and orange was bang on trend – well, at least according to Vogue. Of course the reference to Marilyn Monroe when the popular film My Week With Marilyn, starring Michelle Williams, is screening in cinemas gave the show extra points for being current, something I believe Rira Sugawara strives to be, as previous collections featured imagery from world events happening during that time.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Carne Griffiths

Dans La Vie AW 2012 by Carne Griffiths

I was crouching immediately next to the photographers for this show and I can honestly say its energy and tempo raised on my arms a hair or two, so I am thrilled to have become aware of Dans La Vie’s existence and I am really looking forward to see what’s in store for the seasons to come. Up until then I will be probably trying to figure out what exactly Rira Sugawara meant when she wrote that the Exciting Encounter in her collection is ‘between 60′s American pop art and the spiritual character of Kuukai, a Japanese High Priest‘ – obviously I get the first bit but I am not so sure about the second, even though I find it fascinating.

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Dans La Vie AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou and Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ailish Sullivan, ,American Pop Art, ,Andy Warhol, ,British Vogue, ,Carne Griffiths, ,collages, ,Dans La Vie, ,Deborah Moon, ,fashion, ,Headwear, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,japanese, ,Japanese Prints, ,Jasper Jones, ,kitsch, ,Kristen Keys, ,Leonardo Da Vinci, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Marilyn Monroe, ,Mitika Chohan, ,My week with Marilyn, ,Pop Art, ,Print Design, ,Rira Sugawara, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Roy Lichtenstein, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Vinyl, ,Vogue magazine

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dora Abodi: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Dora Abodi by Simon McLaren
Dora Abodi by Simon McLaren.

Dora Abodi was a new name to me. She founded her label in 2009 in Hungary and currently divides her time between Milan and Budapest. I was pleased to note that she doesn’t work with fur and only uses materials from an ethical origin, working with craftspeople to achieve a fine finish on garments and accessories.

Dora Abodi Spring Summer 2015, illustration by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard for Amelia's Magazine
Dora Abodi SS15 by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax of Illustrated Moodboard.

I loved the cardboard cut out invitation to this show (not enough interesting invites in these days of austerity…) which was covered in graphic photo generated patterns that appeared on a series of belted dresses, and panelled crop tops worn with flared skirts. She’s obviously a fan of Jonathan Saunders, Belle Sauvage and kin, but gave this collection a gothic spice of its own with slick black mullets, dark eyes and swishing curved embellishments reminiscent of birds wings. The show closed with a stunning ensemble that would not be out of place as inspiration for my 10th anniversary open brief, calling to mind animal spirits and shamans.

Scroll down to view the video.

Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Budapest, ,catwalk, ,Dora Abodi, ,Hungarian, ,Hungary, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Jonathan Saunders, ,London Fashion Week, ,Milan, ,review, ,Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, ,S/S 2015, ,Simon Mclaren, ,SS15

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Designer Wilson PK introduces his AW15 Collection

Wilson PK - AW15 look 13
Wilson PK is a 24 year old London based fashion designer and graduate of Central Saint Martins who has worked with Alexander Wang and Iris van Herpen. He works with a sharp modern silhouette and highly developed textiles. Here the designer explains more about his new collection:

Wilson PK - AW15 look 11
Wilson PK - AW15 look 12
‘My inspiration for the AW15 collection draws on my experience working at Crisis, the homeless charity, during Christmas. I sensed a very strong social hierarchy taking place in East London and really wanted to portray this in my collection but in a very abstract way. I started by exploring the architecture of East London and was interested in the juxtaposition of council houses & modern buildings. The clash between the ageing brick houses against the geometric skyscrapers quickly caught my attention and become my key element for AW15.

Wilson PK - AW15 look 9
Wilson PK - AW15 look 7
As a brand, we are all about innovative materials. In an industry where silhouettes have been over exhausted, I hope to bring forward a fresh perspective through unseen materials. For AW15 we teamed up with Stoll Technology and we have already created new knitwear techniques such as the double bonded knit. This material appears as a mohair but is lined with lycra to act like a neoprene, eliminating itch and doubling up as shape wear. As honey comb pleated leather, it creates an extraordinary architectural fabric which is perfect for our long coat.

Wilson PK - AW15 look 3

For AW15, we are designing for an affluent woman with a fast paced lifestyle who is looking for easy to wear, statement pieces to take her from day to night. From a rubber and wool blend jumper to leather skirt, the collection is contemporary and sophisticated yet appears effortless.’

Categories ,Alexander Wang, ,AW15, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Crisis, ,Iris Van Herpen, ,Stoll Technology, ,Wilson PK

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