Ones To Watch – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Sarah Ryan: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch, London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Sarah Ryan A/W 2014 by Lynne Datson

Sarah Ryan A/W 2014 by Lynne Datson.

The final Ones to Watch designer that I am covering is Sarah Ryan, and in a break from the norm she comes from Ireland, graduating from the Limerick School of Art and Design. Her aim is to marry ‘the extraordinary and the functional’ and her collection came in a neutral colour palette of cream, beige and black, with the focus on a range of exotic weaving techniques. Girls wore simple plaited ankle slips on bare feet and accessorised a variety of amazing bags. The round ball clutch and oversized holdalls worn on the back were undoubted highlights of a beautifully crafted collection.

Sarah Ryan AW 2014-crop top

Sarah Ryan AW 2014-back view

Sarah Ryan AW 2014-holdall

Sarah Ryan AW 2014-round bag

Sarah Ryan AW 2014-giant bag

Sarah Ryan A/W 2014 by Lynne Datson

Sarah Ryan A/W 2014 by Lynne Datson.

Sarah Ryan AW 2014-portrait

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday February 21st, 2014 9:56 pm

Categories ,Irish, ,Limerick School of Art and Design, ,Lynne Datson, ,Ones To Watch, ,Sarah Ryan

Amelia’s Magazine | Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2011 – A Preview

Kirsty Ward, cialis 40mg pilule illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Oh God, doctor more about is it really that time again? Do I really have to stay up, approved night after night, sending all those emails? Worrying about outfits? Processing 12,000 photographs? Yep, London Fashion Week is just around the corner, and yesterday Vauxhall Fashion Scout announced their line up for their extra special Ones to Watch show.

Previous winners of the accolade include Ada Zanditon and Lu Flux (both in Amelia’s new book) as well as Eudon Choi and David Longshaw. Last season’s outing was an ecclectic mix of ‘dandyish’ menswear, cream pleats and yellow ruffles. The line up this time around looks certain to impress, though – Central Saint Martins’ graduates Anja Mlakar and Kirsty Ward, along with Sara Bro-Jorgensen and Tze Goh.

While we all get excited about London’s most fashionable five days, here’s a little round up of the new design talent.

Tze Goh

Illustration by Lana Hughes

Tze Goh graduated with a BA from Parsons in New York before completing an MA at Central Saint Martins. Tze’s collections to date have had that strong, minimal aesthetic with emphasis on shape and sculpture.

They’re definitely futuristic, and each garment appears to have been moulded from an unknown material rather than sewn from jersey. Pieces emphasise the shapes of his models – exaggerated shoulders and discrete twists in fabric make for modern, appealing clothes. Hopefully he’ll stick to his minimalist principles during his outing this coming season.

Kirsty Ward

Illustration by Gabriel Ayala

Kirsty Ward is brilliant. She’s one of the most unique designers I’ve seen in ages, and it’s no surprise that she’s, yep – you guessed it – Central Saint Martin’s alumni and went on to work with Alberta Ferretti in Italy. Amelia reviewed her collection last season , a vertiable wonder of sculptural jewellery and clothing that echoes the contours of the body.

I loved her work with David Longshaw (creating jewellery that he teamed with his collection) during his debut on the very same Ones to Watch stage a year ago This season promises another fashion-forward outing.

Anja Mlakar

Illustration by Willa Gebbie

Anja Mlakar is – you guessed it – another Central Saint Martins graduate. I’m feeling fatigued typing those three words already and the shows haven’t even started. Anyway, Her debut collection harboured much interest and having only graduated last year, Anja is set to cement herself in fashion this coming season.

Her S/S 2011 collection was a welcome ray of sunshine, with bursts of pastel yellows and pinks. Her aesthetic features structural forms and body-concious frocks, and her style straddles the fine line between flattering and futuristic. The most diverse collection, it will be intereting to see if Anja develops a particular element or mixes it up again.

Sara Bro-Jorgensen

Illustration by Jaymie O’Callaghan

Sara, a Royal College of Art graduate (at last!) takes a different approach to fashion and is heavily influenced by 2D forms like black and white photographs. She’s been nominated for awards here and there.

Her previous collections contain a mix of knits and deconstructed pieces, and I’m not exaggerating when I say this girl digs black. As it’s the A/W 2011 we’re looking forward to, I wouldn’t be surprised if we see more of fashion’s favourite colour on Sara’s outing, but then what do I know?

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday January 12th, 2011 5:45 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Alberta Feretti, ,black, ,Central Saint Martins, ,David Longshaw, ,fashion, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Italy, ,Jaymie O’Callaghan, ,Lana Hughes, ,London Fashion Week, ,new york, ,Ones To Watch, ,parsons, ,Royal College of Art, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Willa Gebbie

Amelia’s Magazine | Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2011 – A Preview

Kirsty Ward, cialis 40mg pilule illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

While we all get excited about London’s most fashionable five days, here’s a little round up of the new design talent.

Tze Goh

Illustration by Lana Hughes

Kirsty Ward

Illustration by Gabriel Ayala

Anja Mlakar

Illustration by Willa Gebbie

Sara Bro-Jorgensen

Illustration by Jaymie O’Callaghan

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday January 12th, 2011 5:45 pm

Amelia’s Magazine | Yeashin: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

South Korean designer Yeashin Kim‘s Woodland collection juxtaposed traditional Korean dress with inspiration from the swinging 60s. The colourful results built on the look she has been honing since completing her studies in fine arts and then attending the London College of Fashion.

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Victoria Wright.

A multitude of textures were thrown together and somehow emerged victorious. Oversized embellished hats, plenty of colourful trims and digitally printed woodgrain based on Korean furniture lent the collection a fairytale feel, with bespoke woolly boots adorned with pompoms adding to the idea that the models could have stepped off the pages of a children’s book (no bad thing in my world).

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Yeashin-by-Sylwia-Szyszka
Yeashin A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Skirts were predominantly short and flared, collars adorned with on trend details, cuffs beautifully buttoned or trimmed in wool. Knitwear came in the form of a dotty cape, bolero and cosy looking chequerboard coat. Yeashin‘s was a delightfully unique collection in this time of monochrome madness, and all the better for it.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/59188092" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/59188092</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 26th, 2013 12:53 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,knitwear, ,Laura Hickman, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,South Korean, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Victoria Wright, ,woodland, ,Yeashin, ,Yeashin Kim

Amelia’s Magazine | Yulia Kondranina: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by youdesignme.

Russian designer and Central Saint Martins graduate Yulia Kondranina was last to show at Ones to Watch, with a small collection of immaculate construction: models stepped out on the catwalk in heavily tasselled dresses, the threads swaying gracefully around legs and arms as they walked. Black threads on black created an elegant gothic feel, whilst white on black was a very on trend nod to the monochrome colour palette which has been omnipresent this season.

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

My favourites were undoubtably the three colourful dresses with which Yulia Kondranina ended her show, jewel coloured and swinging flatteringly around hips over the top of tube skirts. I was able to check out the dresses up close at the Fashion Scout exhibition, where I discovered that the delicate threads were given substance with clever internal hoops. I’m not sure how easy they would be to wear, but the collection was beautifully conceived.

ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 26th, 2013 3:56 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Laura Hickman, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,Russian, ,youdesignme

Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Ones to Watch Preview

Nova Chiu S/S 2012 by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu S/S 2012 by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu’s creations look like they’ve leapt straight off the pages of ancient fairytales. Strong, architecturally inspired silhouettes burst with colour, texture, beads and print. Her LCF graduate collection was a case of Art reflecting reality, as Nova drew inspiration from her birthplace, the Yunnan province of China, also known as the ‘mystical, earthly paradise’ that is Shangri-La. The aptly named Shangri-Ladida collection mixed traditional Chinese and contemporary dressmaking methods, winning the prestigious Collection of The Year award and creating a buzz of interest around what the designer will do next.

Nova Chiu by Cassandra Mayers

All photography courtesy of Nova Chiu

Chiu will be starting as a brand-new designer this London Fashion Week, but that doesn’t mean she’s new to fashion. Nova has worked for big-name designers such as Anna Sui, Richard Nicoll, and Matthew Williamson, who are all known for their use of colour, texture and shape.

Nova Chiu by Abi Hall

Nova Chiu by Abi Hall

For her graduate collection, Nova Chui drew inspiration from China for more reasons than it being her birthplace. Feeling that although China produces most of the clothes sold around the world, not much is known about traditional and contemporary Chinese fashion. Nova decided she wanted to unveil unknown Chinese culture through her work, mixing traditional and contemporary techniques together in a collection fit for a modern-day princess.

Nova Chiu by Dark Lens

Nova’s background in Surface Textiles is evident in her choice of modern and traditional prints, embellishments, and fabrics. I love her use of different textiles and creativity with red and yellow faux fur, which she embroidered into or pressed prints onto. Not many people could whip up a traditional Chinese ‘ink and wash’ painting method and place it on cotton and nylon to such a fresh effect. Jade and wooden beads poke through faux fur and run along edges as decoration. Sequins and different types of bells were also embedded in the fabric, meaning a girl wearing Nova Chiu will most definitely be seen and heard.

Nova Chiu by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu by Dana Bocai

The beauty of a graduate collection, and Nova’s in particular, is that burst of energy from the pages of a student sketchbook into a catwalk collection. With her sketchbook lovingly displayed on her website, visitors get a sneak peak at the work that went into her attention-grabbing graduate collection. The illustrator in me loves the detailed, feminine and surreal drawings Nova creates. This designer spends a lot of time illustrating.

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Cassandra Mayers

This London Fashion Week, I truly cannot wait to see what Nova has in store. Will it be a development of the graduate collection or a complete change? I think we can predict more fascinating displays of her expertise and playfulness with surface textiles. I know I want to see more of her beaded and embellished faux fur; seeing shimmering stones poking out from candy-coloured fur reminds me of some type of fairytale animal. Whatever colour, inspiration, shape or customer she chooses to create for, I’m sure this London Fashion Week will be heaven on earth for Nova Chiu.

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu will be debuting her A/W 2012 collection this London Fashion Week on Friday the 17th of February at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones to Watch show

Written by Alia Gargum on Friday February 17th, 2012 9:28 am

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Abi Hall, ,Alia Gargum, ,Anna Sui, ,China, ,colour, ,Dana Bocai, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Faux Fur, ,Jo Ley, ,london, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Nova Chiu, ,Ones To Watch, ,Richard Nicholl, ,Shangri-Ladida, ,surface design, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Patrick Li: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Patrick Li A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

We profiled Patrick Li as one of our favourite Ones to Watch before London Fashion Week, and now it’s time to catch up with his catwalk show.

ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Patrick Li A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

I had an inkling of what to expect from Ones to Watch stylist Rebekah Roy, who was wearing a collar fashioned out of the glittery material that Patrick Li used through out his gorgeous tailored collection. Models strode out to bassy beats in sleek ponytails and simple heels, some with a covered ankle feature all the better to show off plentiful asymmetric hemlines.

ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Patrick Li A/W 2013 by youdesignme.

A series of predominantly black minidresses were given the layered treatment, with glitter peeking out from beneath sharp diagonal hems, at waists or on the seams that draped across the body. Crushed velvet made an outing in dusky mink and tapered crop trousers were worn with simple white shirts. Box-shouldered coats came in crop, mid and long versions, all eminently wearable. This was a thoroughly modern collection with great sales potential, and I look forward to watching what the talented Patrick Li does next.

ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Susie Lau of Style Bubble checks out Ones to Watch. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/59187830" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/59187830</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 26th, 2013 12:02 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Ones To Watch, ,Patrick Li, ,Rebekah Roy, ,review, ,Style Bubble, ,Susie Lau, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,youdesignme

Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Patrick Li from Fashion Scout’s ‘One’s to Watch’ A/W13, London Fashion Week

Sneak Preview of Patrick Li A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman. All other images S/S 2013.

It’s that frantically fabulous point of year again, when Fashion Scout’s coveted Ones to Watch of the season is announced before the highly anticipated London Fashion Week. Among the selected talents is Patrick Li; with an MA from the Royal College of Art and experience working under the likes of Viktor & Rolf and Hussein Chalayan, it is clear that he is a force to be reckoned with. Prior to the show, I had the pleasure of picking Patrick Li’s brain to see what he’s all about and where the ease and fluidity of his designs come from.

Patrick Li by Deborah Moon
Patrick LI by Deborah Moon

Congratulations on being chosen as one of the Ones to Watch this season! How does it feel?
Thank you! It’s feels great to be chosen as once of the Ones to Watch, I am looking forward to presenting A/W 2013.

PATRICK LI SS13
What do you like to think sets you apart from the other designers?
Design, vision and the aesthetic of the brand set PATRICK LI apart from the other designers, I think every designer is unique and has his/her own take on the direction and vision of their brands.

Patrick Li by Natalie Lines
Patrick Li by Natalie Lines

Your designs are so beautifully crisp and seem almost architectural, what has inspired your collection for the Ones to Watch?
For A/W 2013, I was inspired by a V&A exhibition Shadow Catchers, especially the work of Garry-Fabian Miller. The singular lighting objects are so impeccable, yet sensual at the same time. I used the lighting coming through darkness as the initial idea for the collection. I have also looked at architecture and interiors designed by Zaha Hadid. I find the organic bold structures and lines of the buildings very intriguing. I started to develop the collection from there and I have worked with bias seams to achieve softer graphic lines for the body shape this season.

Describe your collection in 5 words.
Graphic, Contrasting, Dimensional, Asymmetrical, Sensual.

PATRICK LI SS13
When designing, what gets your creative juices flowing?
Sunshine! Minimal electro tracks.

Your clothes are to be stocked at Joyce in Hong Kong soon, which is MAJOR. Do you have any trouble balancing creativity with commerce?
It’s exciting to know that my debut collection will be stocked at Joyce. There will also be exhibition event at Joyce with my S/S 2013 collection. I found it hard to balance creativity and commerce at first, because creativity doesn’t really always translate into wearability well. There is compromise to be made along the process; I had to constantly remind myself of the woman that I am designing for.

Patrick Li by Kirsty McGill
Patrick Li by Kirsty McGill

Fashion aside, what are some of your favourite things to do in London?
Going to the Cinema, dining out, visiting museums and galleries.

What’s next for you in the near future?
I am looking forward to starting S/S 2014 straight after Ones to Watch. A solo show next season perhaps.

Patrick Li Illustration by Naomi Samara
Illustration by Naomi Samara

Patrick Li shows as part of Ones to Watch on Saturday 16th February 2013.

Written by Alex Kessler on Friday February 15th, 2013 11:46 pm

Categories ,Deborah Moon, ,Garry Fabian Miller, ,Hussein Chalayan, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Joyce, ,Kirsty McGill, ,London Fashion Week, ,Naomi Samara, ,Natalie Lines, ,Ones To Watch, ,Patrick Li, ,Royal College of Art, ,Shadow Catchers, ,Zaha Hadid

Amelia’s Magazine | Renli Su: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch, London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Renli Su S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Coming up last but by no means least, Chinese designer Renli Su took a very different approach to fashion as one of Ones to Watch. With high aims to create ‘garments that retain physical traces of their past in order to form an intrinsic bond with the wearer‘ her new season collection examined the connection between the lives of working class women in the Victorian era, and the clothes they wore. This translated into a series of earthy toned garments that had more than a touch of the peasant in their boxy shapes, bunched hems, and trailing ribbon ties. The collection was made from a selection of entirely organic fibres, with purposefully loosened hems and distressed seams designed to age appealingly when worn with love over many years. Bonnet inspired headwear, detachable hoods and light weight leg warmers were hand crafted in crochet and knit. This was a sweet collection with some appealing ideas and a big heart at the centre of it all.

Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Renli Su with her fellow Ones to Watch. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/74455681" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/74455681</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday September 17th, 2013 8:01 pm

Categories ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Ecofashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Ones To Watch, ,organic, ,Renli Su

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch Baartmans and Siegel

Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 by Barb Royal
Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Baartmans and Siegel are already making waves in menswear land: the upcoming brand is stocked by Harrods. A look at their S/S 2012 collection reveals why. It is an easy going range of summery suits, remedy accessories and separates in perfect boy tones: lots of pewter, store stone, price dusty blue and dashes of orange and caramel. Of particular note were the chunky leather satchels, snood silk scarves and cosy striped handknit cotton cardigans and jumpers, all worn with comfy brogues by classic shoemakers Grenson.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford

All photography by Matt Bramford.

Baartmans Siegel LFW by Katie Allen
Baartmans Siegel S/S 2012 by Katie Allen.

Wouter Baartman and Amber Siegel are a Dutch/English design partnership who met whilst designing at Viktor & Rolf and became united over their love of beautiful craftsmanship and imaginative design.

Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Baartmans and Siegel (SS-2012) by Barb Royal
Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

The Dust Drifters collection was inspired by the colours of an arid landscape, perfect for the modern traveller and Baartmans and Siegel‘s use of quality fabrics such as Irish linen and silk crepe contributes to the air of luxury. They describe themselves as ‘modern traditionalists’ and it’s easy to see how this ethos has been translated into clothing. Beautiful.

Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.
<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/29381504" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/29381504</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday October 4th, 2011 5:09 pm

Categories ,Amber Siegel, ,Barb Royal, ,Dust Drifters, ,dutch, ,English, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grenson, ,Handknit, ,Harrods, ,Katie Allen, ,lfw, ,Luxury, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Ones To Watch, ,S/S 2012, ,Silk Crepe, ,Wouter Baartman

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