Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch KYE

KYE S/S 2012 by Katie Allen
KYE S/S 2012 by Katie Allen.

Ones to Watch menswear finished with the most outrageous designer: KYE. Live and Let Live featured plenty of glitzy gold decoration in the form of glittery DMs, viagra dosage foiled prints of skeleton uzis and even a life size crystal encrusted gun bag strapped across a bare chest. Inspired by the images of conflicts and violence that saturate our news networks, dosage this was not a collection for the feint hearted.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
Photography by Matt Bramford.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
KYE SS 2012 by Barb Royal
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Woven tasselled scarves worn in multiple around wrists and ankles, ed on heads and around faces were a nod towards Palestinian fashion – even appearing in a full matching shirts and shorts suit with neon guns emblazoned in embroidery on the back.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Having grown up in a separated country Korean born designer Kathleen Hanhee Kye pokes fun at excessive militarism, but this was always going to be difficult ground to tread – I am sure that as many people will find this collection distasteful as find it entertaining. Still, whoever said fashion could not cause us to pause and think, or even antagonise? One thing is certain, Live and Let Live was a fun and different way to round up S/S 2012 menswear Ones to Watch.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
Photography by Matt Bramford.

Kathleen Hanhee Kye holds a BA and MA in menswear from Central Saint Martins. She hopes to branch out into womenswear next season: I’m intrigued to see what this will look like.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Glitzy, ,Gold, ,Kathleen Hanhee Kye, ,Katie Allen, ,Korean, ,KYE, ,KYE Fashion, ,lfw, ,Live and Let Live, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Militarism, ,Ones To Watch, ,Palestine

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Amelia’s Magazine | Hana Cha: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Hana_Cha-by-Isabelle_Mattern
Hana Cha by Isabelle Mattern.

Korean designer Hana Cha (yet another London College of Fashion graduate) stuck to monochrome for her collection with Ones to Watch at Fashion Scout, concentrating on subtle textures such as applique stars, dip dye, rough edges and sweeping tassels to provide interest. She worked in sheers, glosses and satins, accessorised with wrist bands and even a studded baseball cap.

Ones to Watch hana cha SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch hana cha SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch hana cha SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch hana cha SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Hana Cha S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

A glossy plasticised minidress that a sexy nurse might have worn was made demure by a wide buckled belt and a sweeping skirt formed of dangling threads. An oversized white suit with wide trousers worn with gold heels brought an early 80s lounge elegance to the show, but plenty of asymmetric details and elongated back flaps ensured this was thoroughly up to date. The collection finished with a stunning black column dress; white threads dangling from the neckline an impractical but stunning addition that swayed hypnotically as the model moved.

Categories ,Fashion Scout, ,Hana Cha, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,Korean, ,lfw, ,London College of Fashion, ,Ones To Watch, ,S/S 2013

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Amelia’s Magazine | Heohwan Simulation: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass.

We’ve been keeping a close eye on the Korean RCA graduate Hwan Heo since he won the Fashion Scout Merit Award a year ago, and for his third showing at Freemasons’ Hall he built on the beautiful structured minimalism for which his label Heohwan Simulation is known.

Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

The show opened with a stunning oversized skirt and jacket combination in a beautiful grey fabric, it’s boxy panels layered like petals on a giant metallic flower. This was teamed with a long petrol blue shirt, the simplest of swept back ponytails and panel fronted hi-heeled sandals, creating a look that was pure Heohwan Simulation; simple, brilliantly executed and utterly unique. With the following looks he explored this new layering technique in an A-line skirt and dress, and a wide collared coat. Hwan Heo‘s obsession with the design potential of zips is never far away and this season they were subtlety integrated into all his garments, part functional and part decorative.

Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Sarah Underwood
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Sarah Underwood.

The middle part of the collection was dominated by more casual looks, with his round shouldered tops given the sweatshirt treatment, and the addition of abstract rectangular panels in shiny white and blue fabric, which ran top to bottom or slanting across the chest. A painterly collage print containing zingy splashes of turquoise and yellow was splashed across trousers, shirt and blouson jacket. After the relaxed layering of sportswear influenced designs Hwan Heo returned to more tailored shapes with a gorgeous parade of leather panelled outfits. The finale featured three outstanding outfits in a grey horizontal ikat design. How I would love a double breasted coat with winged neck, or a high necked Heohwan Simulation cape…

Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Chloe Douglass, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Heohwan Simulation, ,Hwan Heo, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Korean, ,Merit Award Winner, ,rca, ,Sarah Underwood

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