Amelia’s Magazine | Heohwan Simulation by Hwan Heo: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Heohwan A/W 2012-by-Laura-Mossop
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2012 by Laura Mossop.

First to show with Ones to Watch, Heohwan Simulation by Hwan Heo, was a power dressing bonanza – his roots as a menswear designer evident. The Royal College of Art graduate sent his models down the catwalk in hard shouldered azure blue and black zippered combinations. Rubberised leather panels draped like capes across arms, creating a voluminous upper body silhouette over knee skimming pencil skirts. A dash of zingy orange came in the form of a dress worn underneath a long overcoat fit for the Matrix. The final pieces featured intriguing cascades of contrasting plastic shapes dangling down the fronts.

Heohwan by Jacqueline Valencia
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2012 by Jacqueline Valencia.

Ones to Watch Heohwan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Heohwan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Heohwan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia gregory
Heohwan-fashion-illustration-by-Laura-Mossop
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2012 by Laura Mossop.

Ones to Watch Heohwan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Heohwan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Heohwan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Heohwan Simulation, ,Hwan Heo, ,Jacqueline Valencia, ,Laura Mossop, ,Matrix, ,Royal College of Art

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Amelia’s Magazine | Heohwan Simulation: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass.

We’ve been keeping a close eye on the Korean RCA graduate Hwan Heo since he won the Fashion Scout Merit Award a year ago, and for his third showing at Freemasons’ Hall he built on the beautiful structured minimalism for which his label Heohwan Simulation is known.

Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

The show opened with a stunning oversized skirt and jacket combination in a beautiful grey fabric, it’s boxy panels layered like petals on a giant metallic flower. This was teamed with a long petrol blue shirt, the simplest of swept back ponytails and panel fronted hi-heeled sandals, creating a look that was pure Heohwan Simulation; simple, brilliantly executed and utterly unique. With the following looks he explored this new layering technique in an A-line skirt and dress, and a wide collared coat. Hwan Heo‘s obsession with the design potential of zips is never far away and this season they were subtlety integrated into all his garments, part functional and part decorative.

Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Sarah Underwood
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Sarah Underwood.

The middle part of the collection was dominated by more casual looks, with his round shouldered tops given the sweatshirt treatment, and the addition of abstract rectangular panels in shiny white and blue fabric, which ran top to bottom or slanting across the chest. A painterly collage print containing zingy splashes of turquoise and yellow was splashed across trousers, shirt and blouson jacket. After the relaxed layering of sportswear influenced designs Hwan Heo returned to more tailored shapes with a gorgeous parade of leather panelled outfits. The finale featured three outstanding outfits in a grey horizontal ikat design. How I would love a double breasted coat with winged neck, or a high necked Heohwan Simulation cape…

Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Chloe Douglass, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Heohwan Simulation, ,Hwan Heo, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Korean, ,Merit Award Winner, ,rca, ,Sarah Underwood

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Amelia’s Magazine | Heohwan Simulation: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gaarte
Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gaarte.

Heohwan Simulation is the latest recipient of the Fashion Scout Merit Award, which entitles him to £25,000 worth of support over three seasons to build his label. Previous winners include David Koma and Georgia Hardinge, so we can expect great things from this fledgling brand.

Heohwan Simulation SS 2013 September 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation SS 2013 September 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation SS 2013 September 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins
Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Last season Heohwan Simulation showed with Ones to Watch but this time he was able to stage his own fully fledged catwalk show. Designer Hwan Heo, an RCA graduate, continued in his exploration of hard edged womenswear inspired by his background as a menswear graduate.

Heohwan Simulation SS 2013 September 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation SS 2013 September 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gaarte
Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gaarte.

This was a confident showing which built on his last collection: boxy triangular shapes were softened with the application of abstract painterly placement prints, mesh textures and checks. Slate, ivory and camel tones were worn with bright grassy green and sunshine yellow, whilst belts were wide and zips were prominent, often traversing the length of a garment. I particularly liked the coats: a crop swing jacket with a single double breasted fastening and a blouson worn with this season’s favourite wide legged trousers. It will be interesting to watch Hwan Heo’s progress over the next few seasons.

Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins
Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Categories ,David Koma, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,Heohwan Simulation, ,Hwan Heo, ,LFW. S/S 2013, ,Merit Award, ,Ones To Watch, ,rca

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