Amelia’s Magazine | Beth Jeans Houghton and the Hooves of Destiny at Hoxton Square Bar and Kitchen: Live Review

Beth Jeans Houghton by Gemma Cotterell

Beth Jeans Houghton by Gemma Cotterell

Squeezing past the punters at the bar, I could see that the box-like auditorium of Hoxton Square Bar and Kitchen was already full in anticipation at the arrival of Beth Jeans Houghton. This was the last night of the tour supporting her new album, Yours Truly, Cellophane Nose, and, like her most recent appearance in the capital (Upstairs at the Garage), all tickets had long since gone.

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I’d first discovered Beth Jeans Houghton a couple of years ago, playing a set at the Windmill in Brixton. At the time, the young Newcastle singer was a hotly tipped one-to-watch on the nu-folk scene (though she would probably consider herself more un-folk) following the release of the Hot Toast Volume One EP, before she seemingly dropped off the radar. Houghton resurfaced last year, having signed to Mute, and could be spotted playing at the Camden Crawl and, later on, at the Lexington (sporting a tiger stripe onesie, as you do). Gone are the wigs that she used to wear at gigs, the acoustic guitar (she’s now electric, you see) and the battered suitcase that doubled as a bass drum, but that amazing voice is still unchanged.

Beth Jeans Houghton by Sandra Jawad

Beth Jeans Houghton by Sandra Jawad

Taking to the stage with her band, the Hooves of Destiny, there was bit of a jokey keyboard and drums Also Sprach Zarathustra moment before things got underway. The set was basically a run through of tracks from the album, with a few added goodies thrown in. Houghton was very much centre stage, with a sparkly blue dress, bouffant blonde hair and bright red lipstick, and her voice soared through songs like Dodecahedron and Liliputt. Some Afrobeat-style guitar introduced Atlas, which I’m fairly sure had a few subtly altered lyrics, and old favourite I Will Return, I Promise was given a sprightly makeover.

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Houghton was more than capably backed by the band, featuring the imposing Findlay MacAskill on violin and backing vocal duties, Dav Shiel and his galloping drums, Ed Blazey swapping between trumpet, a very posh banjo and guitar and bass player Rory Gibson’s frighteningly loud trousers. It was pretty clear that everyone was enjoying themselves, and a broken string and dodgy guitar strap did little to dampen the onstage banter. Houghton was in impish mood, telling the audience what MacAskill (a doctor) had been doing during the day (repairing some poor unfortunate’s nether regions) before conducting a survey of what people’s favourite words were (“discombobulation” seemed to score quite highly). There was also a prize for “funkiest dancer” up for grabs.

Beth Jeans Houghton by Claire Kearns

Beth Jeans Houghton by Claire Kearns

The set closed with Houghton and the Hooves joined by the support band, Goodnight Lenin, for a fully choreographed rendition of (would you believe) Madonna’s Like A Prayer, before being urged back on stage by the crowd for an encore and ripping through the joyously punky coda to the album finale, Carousel.

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With her much anticipated album finally released (and very well received), and now apparently based full time in Los Angeles, it looks like Beth Jeans Houghton and the Hooves of Destiny will be riding on to bigger and better things.

Categories ,afrobeat, ,beth jeans houghton, ,Brixton, ,Camden Crawl, ,folk, ,Goodnight Lenin, ,Hooves of Destiny, ,Hoxton Square Bar and Kitchen, ,Los Angeles, ,Madonna, ,Mute, ,Newcastle, ,The Garage, ,The Lexington, ,The Windmill

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Amelia’s Magazine | Diamond Mine by Jon Hopkins and King Creosote. A review and interview with Jon Hopkins.

Jon Hopkins King Creosote cover
Diamond Mine was released in the UK a few months ago and came out in the US only recently, for sale so I hope that some of my readers will already have heard it for it is without doubt one of the most wonderful pieces of music I have heard in many years. And I don’t say that lightly. The album is a collaboration between Fife based folk singer songwriter King Creosote and Royal College of Music graduate Jon Hopkins, viagra approved who specialises in electronica.

Jon Hopkins and King Creosote by Gareth A Hopkins
Jon Hopkins and King Creosote by Gareth A Hopkins.

King Creosote is the driving force behind the fabulous Fence Records collective and runs HomeGame Festival in Fife, viagra buy a cult destination for many a muso. Jon Hopkins collaborates with the likes of Coldplay and Brian Eno. Together they really have made something exceptionally special, a sprawling re-imagining of King Creosote songs from across the years, bittersweet lyrics offset with a lushly atmospheric backdrop that includes the sounds of real life. I caught up with both Kenny ‘King Creosote’ Anderson and Jon Hopkins to find out how this unique partnership came about, and what the process of making Diamond Mine was like. First up here’s Jon:

When and where did you first hear King Creosote’s music? Did you fall in love immediately or was it a slow gradual thing?
A friend of mine kept putting Kenny And Beth’s Musakal Boat Rides on at parties and stuff. It took me a while to get into, it had such a different sound to the more polished things I was used to. It grew on me quickly but it was when I first heard his much harder-to-find album Psalm Clerk that I became a massive fan.

King Creosote and Jon Hopkins by Felice
King Creosote and Jon Hopkins by Felice Perkins.

This album was produced over a number of years… how has that process worked in reality? How many times have you managed to meet up, and are there any memorable moments from those meetings?
The album probably took about 6 or 7 weeks in total, but hugely spread out. We recorded most of the vocals in one go, then collected sounds from all over the place to build up the backdrops. We’re friends predominantly so we meet a fair few times a year, sometimes we record, sometimes we sit around talking nonsense and consuming fruit beers. 

You talk about the songs tapping into the “sweet sadness” of everyday life, and I think this is the first album in so long that has made me almost want to cry. Why do you think that Kenny’s voice is so evocative? And how have you done your best to encourage those emotions he defines so well?
For me it’s something in the accent, the phrasing, the lyrics, and the fact that there aren’t any singers that sound like him. On this record I wanted to kind of build these sonic worlds for that voice to live in, if you can forgive the pretentiousness of that sentence. The crucial thing was never to add any parts that would detract from the voice.

Jon Hopkins. Photo by Steve Gullick
Jon Hopkins. Photo by Steve Gullick.

Where does your female choir come from?
It is just one voice layered many times, that of Lisa Elle, who harmonises with Kenny throughout the record. I liked the idea of making her sound like a choir of sirens, in keeping with the whole seafaring thing – that is what the end section of John Taylor’s Month Away is supposed to be.

Some of the tracks feature a backdrop of normal daytime noises against which Kenny’s vocals are overlaid. Why did you decide to do this? And where were these recorded?
I liked the idea of dropping the listener into the reality of the world that these songs come from. All the field recordings are from the fishing villages in Fife around the place Kenny has spent his life. It’s a big part of the record, and is a technique I’ve been using on my own stuff for a while too.

Jon Hopkins and King Creosote by Lorna Scobie
Jon Hopkins and King Creosote by Lorna Scobie.

What was the best part of visiting Kenny in Fife?
I’ve been visiting that part of the world regularly for 7 years now; Kenny and his friends organise an incredible music festival there every year, which attracts some amazing artists. Too many amazing memories to list, plus most are unprintable.

Will you and Kenny be working again, and if so what have you got planned?
We have been thinking about a follow-up, yes. No definite ideas or plans yet though. This is not a project we tend to move quickly on.

Listen to a taster of the album here:

Next up, my interview with the equally fabulous King Creosote

Categories ,album, ,brian eno, ,Coldplay, ,Diamond Mine, ,electronica, ,Felice Perkins, ,Fence Records, ,festival, ,Fife, ,folk, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,HomeGame, ,interview, ,Jon Hopkins, ,Kenny And Beth’s Musakal Boat Rides, ,Kenny Anderson, ,King Creosote, ,Lorna Scobie, ,Psalm Clerk, ,review, ,Royal College of Music, ,scotland, ,Sirens, ,Steve Gullick

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Amelia’s Magazine | :Kinema: – Interview

All illustrations by Andrea Kearney.
It is March and the daffodils are in full bloom. London is drunk on sunshine. There is talk of vest tops and the unbearably exciting prospect of leaving the house without a coat. March also means that the light has started illuminating my smudgy windows and the dust that had collected under my radiators over winter. Yes. It’s probably time to think about Spring cleaning. For someone who is slightly anal (ok, visit very anal), you’d think I would find the prospect of a spring clean satisfying and wholesome. This would be wrong. I do it as little as I can get away with and secretly long for a cleaner (my bookshelves though, dosage are neurotically ordered according to colour).
My aversion to cleaning doesn’t mean that I don’t think about it. During my unemployment 18 months ago, a particularly low point came when I had exhausted Homes Under the Hammer and resorted to How Clean Is Your House. Kim and Aggy were all vinegar and lemon juice and elbow grease and baking soda and impossibly blonde chignons; and I was converted. As I sat on the sofa in my pyjamas, I thought to myself, if it’s good enough for Kim and Aggy, its good enough for me. It would take me another year and a half to act on this (ahem); fast forward to New Years Eve 2009. Maybe it was something to do with spending the last day of 2009 up to my elbows in ‘tetrasodium pyrophosphate’ (bleach, apparently) but that night I drunkenly resolved that 2010 would finally be the year that I would reduce the chemicals in my home.
A look in my cleaning cupboard, and in fact in most average cleaning cupboards, and you’d be forgiven for thinking you were entering a nuclear zone. ‘Irritating to skin, toxic, risk of serious damage to eyes, harmful, keep locked up and out of the reach of children, if swallowed, seek medical attention immediately and show this container.” Yikes. I realised that there was something wrong with sloshing substances around my home that could literally burn my hands off.


The first hurdle in my new year’s resolution was not being able to find big enough quantities of vinegar and bicarbonate of soda. My initial web searches yielded nothing, but just before I was about to spend £14 buying 6 tiny boxes of bicarb, I came across the wonderful Summer Naturals* web shop which stocks industrial quantities of everything you’d need to make your own cleaning supplies.
I began with surface spray. Mine had run out so I washed out the bottle and gathered my supplies around me. An air of anticipation settled in the kitchen.
I’m not going to lie, it began dreadfully. Like an excited 9 year old I decided to slosh a bit of everything in there and make a ‘potion’. I must have been otherwise engaged during my school science lessons (vinegar + bicarb = volcano!) because attempt number one ended with a frothy white layer of goo covering my kitchen surfaces. Attempt number 2 was slightly more restrained but still an unmitigated fail. Putting any sort of powder in to a bottle with a nozzle will just clog it. I went back to the Summer Naturals website with my tail between my legs and found a much more functioning recipe for a surface cleaner (vinegar, water, Dr Bronmers castile soap and orange essential oil, if you were wondering) and the rest has sort of snowballed from there.


The benefits

• At the risk of sounding like a sad housewife, you can do most, if not all, household tasks with a few chemical free ingredients. This includes drains, toilets, floors, dishwasher powder and washing powder. • I have saved a fortune. Domesto’s Grotbuster Bleach Gel will set you back £1.97! Cillit bang Degeaser Power Cleaner will cost you £3.07! Cif Power Cream Bathroom Spray; £3.66! My Summer Naturals stash cost about £20 and will last me years. • It’s safe. If I spill a bit of my floor cleaner on my hands (borax, water, scented oil) the worst that will happen is that I will smell pleasantly of lavender. • It works. I live in a ‘hard water’ area so I know that I need to add more vinegar than usual to help the lime scale breakdown, which it does • My home smells amazing. Essential oils are needed to mask the vinegar smell, or your home will smell like a chip shop. French Lavender and juniper berry scented floors? Peppermint and rose scented surfaces? Oh yes please. The oils add an antiseptic quality too. • Cleaning has become (dare I say it?) more enjoyable for both me and my mister, and it’s even slightly more regular too. Boom.Give it a go. And give it some time. It’s not quite as quick as squirting some Domestos Grotbuster Bleach Gel down your loo, but the process is much more satisfying and the results are pretty darn good too.

Hailing from Brighton, purchase :Kinema: (yes, click those colons are an intentional and integral part of the band’s name) haven’t been around for long but have already managed to put out a series of warm and smart poptacular indie tracks that insist – nay, demand – a trip to the dancefloor. I dropped lead singer Dominic a line to find out more about them, and he cheerfully responded to my questions with admirable depth and dedication. Nice one, Dominic. Let’s take it away:

Hello there. Can you introduce yourselves and the rest of the band?

Dominic Ashton, singer, at your service, then we also have Ross Flight on Keytar and synths and on guitar Andy James Nelson.

Lovely. Describe yourselves and the music you make for us.

Musically the phrase ‘Dancefloor Romance’ feels right. In more familiar terms you could say we are a soulful, electronic pop band.

Interesting self-description there, ‘dancefloor romance’ – that’s a phrase that really reminds me of Franz Ferdinand‘s declaration that they wanted to make ‘music that girls can dance to’. They were at the forefront of a post-punk revival, and then we had other danceable indie bands coming through under hip’n’happening labels like dance-punk and, hah, ‘nu-rave’. Alongside bands like Phoenix (who appear to have finally cracked more widespread praise, and who are a band that I reckon share a few traits with you guys) would you consider yourselves to be a part of a new similarly-minded dance/indie/pop crossover trend? Put more simply, is your time now?

We are definitely fans of a lot of the indie-dance stuff. We listen to a lot of the DFA, Kitsune and Modular bands, and DJs, and that obviously has an influence on the music you make, but I think it’s important for any pop producer to listen to a wide variety of contemporary music and to try and meld as much of it together as possible into one cohesive pop sound. I have absolutely no problem with people calling us indie-dance or whatever, if that’s the element they are mainly hearing in our songs then that’s all fine with us, but I’d like to think we share just as much musical DNA with people like the Neptunes as we do with Franz Ferdinand – though I’m willing to admit that we aren’t as good-looking. As for whether this is our time, I’d like to believe that we could have released these songs 5 years ago, or we could release them in 5 years time and it wouldn’t really make a difference. If the indie-dance scene collapsed tomorrow I don’t think it would really affect us; I don’t think pop music is ever going to disappear.

So what is it that you’re trying to achieve with your music?

It wasn’t so much as planned, but the idea of bridging a gap between ‘indie’ music and ‘pop’ music really appeals to us. People tend to polarise these forms – pop music being seen as fake or manufactured; indie music being more ‘real’ and authentic. Now whilst we don’t wholly disagree what this, we have a big love for pop music and are trying to improve its reputation by making pop with an indie sensibility if you like. Writing songs that mean something and performing them ourselves.

Why do you think it is that a lot of people don’t consider music with groove, your average pop song, to be as worthy as, say, a straight up folk song? You’re right that pop often gets labelled as being insincere, phony, or fake, but why is that? I can’t really detect any huge difference between Little Boots and Lady Gaga, yet they receive different kinds of assessments in the press, for instance.

Well… I could probably give you an essay in answer to this but I’ll try and keep things brief. I think there is a whole host of reasons to be honest. A lot of people are of the opinion that for music to be meaningful, the performer has to have written the material themselves, and to a certain extent I would agree with this. I don’t get the feeling that Lady Gaga has invested too much of her time in the writing and production of her music and so I tend to regard her as a celebrity who’s main purpose is to sell mobile phones and soft drinks through the medium of music video. That’s not to say, however, that music that is written and produced for performers, rather than by them, isn’t of value. If you look at some of the motown that the Dozier/Holland/Dozier team created for a variety of artists, it is some of the most memorable music ever made. So I think its got more to do with how music has been commercialised in the last couple of decades. Once major record companies realised that to score a hit single they didn’t have to make a great song, they just had to market it correctly, that’s precisely what they did and we ended up with such musical heavyweights as Steps and Vanilla. I don’t actually have a problem with major labels doing that; children seem to like it and it makes a lot of money that record labels (supposedly) spend on developing other artists. What I dislike is how it has led to music fans equating the term ‘pop music’ with stuff like Steps, because there is a world of difference between what we do and what is churned out by the majors.

Secondly (I told you this was going to be long), I think there has always been a type of music fan who thinks that the classic subject matter of pop is not what ‘real’ musicians should concern themselves with. It probably started when disco and rock seemed to polarise the music world in the seventies. I’ve always got the feeling that some rock fans feel that musicians should concern themselves with loftier themes than dancing and making sweet love, and maybe they are right, but I’ve always felt that rock albums that are only concerned with digging to the very depths of the human soul are just as misrepresentative of the breadth of human experience because dancing and fucking are great fun and a large important part of many peoples’ lives. Even folk musicians think about sex sometimes, so I don’t know why it is that they rarely tackle the subject. Its just generic conventions I guess. As far as our music goes, we try and write about it all.

Very sentient analysis there, I have to say. So how do you go about convincing people that you’re serious about having fun?

Once people hear our songs I don’t actually think they need that much convincing. There’s a song that I wrote about how I love my synthesizers more than my girlfriend, a subject matter that you probably wouldn’t find in the lyrics of say, Cheryl Cole, because she has yet to learn the joys of producing her own records. I think people pick up on those things pretty quickly and realise that our stuff is, for want of a better word, ‘authentic’.

Which are the artists that have influenced you the most, then?

We all have different influences, but we like to think our music follows in the footsteps of early-80′s yacht-rock stars like Michael McDonald – although, perhaps more like if they’d spent more time hanging out at new wave discos like The Roxy or Paradise Garage than in marinas. From today, artists like Holy Ghost! and Aeroplane, and a whole host of French producers, inspire us.

What are you recording or planning to release? Anything soon?

There’s a double A side of ‘Recreation’ and our cover of Animal Collective’s ‘My Girls’ released as a download on the 29th of March. Then, in April, the ‘Circles’ EP gets released as a limited edition 2 track 7? yellow vinyl and a 4 track digital release, and our friends Grovesnor and Line have supplied remixes for that one.

Both these releases are coming out on Hot Pockets, and after that we’ll see. There’s interest from various quarters, but we’re just taking it as it comes at the moment, we’ve also recently done some remixes for other artists but we can’t say too much about that just yet, we don’t want to ruin the surprise.

You can’t reveal anything about the remixes? Pretty please?

Oh, alright then – we’ve just given Husky Rescue a kind of Derrick May meets Billie Jean re-working, there’s a remix we did of an Italian band LFC coming out soon and we’re currently working on giving our label mates Shock Defeat! a sparkling synth make over. There’s a few more things in the pipeline but I really can’t say anything more about them at the moment.

Can’t forget this either – where can people catch you guys live? Any festival slots lined up?

Over the next month or so it’s mainly London and Brighton, in fact we have 3 gigs in a row in west, central and east London in late april (22nd/23rd/24th) so if you live there you really have no excuse to not see us play. As for festivals we’ve got 3 or 4 offers on the table, they should be all confirmed soon. Best bet is to check our website or join our mailing list, we’re getting offered all sorts of gigs at the moment so hopefully people will be able to catch us playing near them very soon.

Ta muchly, Dominic.

Categories ,:kinema:, ,authentic, ,band, ,boogie, ,brighton, ,dance, ,french, ,Indie, ,indie-dance, ,interview, ,live, ,motown, ,pop, ,production

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Amelia’s Magazine | Wild Beasts

So here we are. After a couple of years the guys from Canada return come back with their long awaited second release Neon Bible. As a consequence a little journey to London is always good to promote their new material and the Brixton Academy has no problem in selling out tickets of their four concerts in March.

Supporting artist is Patrick Wolf who’s also coming back on the scene with a lighter, more about online funnier and probably less difficult album than his previous offerings. His was a good show, try nothing to complain about and he certainly knows how to impress the public with his vocal qualities.

Suddenly it’s nine o’clock: lights down, what is ed public screaming and from the video projectors a preacher is explaining to us God’s law. In the background an enormous neon bible illuminates in red while some other neon’s appear in front of the stage.
Keep the Car Running, The Well and the Lighthouse or Ocean of Noise, the last one much better live than on the album, are among the first to be performed before coming to their relatively old hits.

As for Arcade Fire they represent everything a big band should be: multi-instrumentalists (Régine Chassagne), violins, horns, organs, lots of different materials and a show that offers all the songs that a fan can ask. The lead vocalist Win Butler is constantly supplied by choruses, shouts or backing vocals while the rest of the band seem unable to rest and keeps moving around the stage. Well, static is definitely not the word to define them. Chaotic in their movements and epic in their anti-minimalist concept of music probably fits better for a band that concentrates on orchestrations.

A really good live show that makes you come back home and listen again to the new release if, just like me, you’ve been a little disappointed the first time you heard it. Even if I am definitely a bigger supporter of Funeral, I am beginning to think that probably in a couple of weeks I’ll be playing Neon Bible constantly on my earphones.

Barfly on a Friday night – rammed. Not as you might expect with sweaty youths, help oh no, visit an older crowd is in tow tonight for a couple of hot, new electro-ey acts – wicked.

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Amelia’s Magazine | Teenagersintokyo : Isabella / Long Walk Home : A single review

asymetric amy blush

The best thing about attending an MA final fashion show is that you can well and truly leave your preconceptions at the door. That’s not to say that there hasn’t been a lot of interest in Rachel Lamb, viagra who is showing the culmination of her Fashion Scout has a reputation for showcasing up and coming designers tipped for the big time. Rachel was selected for the MRHC Nobellini competition and has spent this past year collaborating with a leading PhD student. She was also chosen to assist fashion artist Di Mainstone during her residency at Eye Beam, information pills a leading Arts and Technology centre in New York

cascade claudia

It’s clear a lot of blood, sweat and tears have gone into the event, rather literally in fact. The theme of the night is ‘Bodylab.’ Projections of anatomical diagrams, mixed with design illustrations flicker on the walls and the music pulsates a fuzzy beat reminiscent of a broken heart monitor. Assistants are handing out promotional packs in white doctor’s coats. The designer has laid out articles presenting the inspiration behind the collection.

rachel lamb illustration

The lights dim and the music switches to various female covers of tracks such as Animal Collective’s ‘My Girls’ (or rather ‘My Boys’) . The scientific spell is broken and we are presented with what is clearly a very personal and feminine collection. Each piece seems to exhibit the ironic mix of female confidence and it’s frailties. The models strike provocative poses, elbows jutting out and spines curved backwards. This is not your typical runway show, it’s a performance piece.

flowing florence ii

The model’s movements serve to highlight the asymmetric silhouettes the pieces create. Sculpted hips are softened with silky drapes cascading down the neckline and thigh. It is easy to draw comparisons as a quirky mix of Donna Karan draping and Balenciaga construction.

rachellambvfs2009

Cascade Claudia, one of the collection’s most eye catching pieces, shows a rigid halter neck with chutes of draped silk jersey flowing down the back. The luxurious curves down the body develop into voluminous harem pants which cut off dramatically mid calf. The neutral tones almost merge with the model’s skin, meaning it is difficult to tell where the garment ends and her skin begins.

bruised bella

Accessories are kept to a minimum, with the real impact of the collection coming from the prints and shapes. Shoes follow the theme of subtle nudes, and seem to blend into the neutral shaded body suits. However to contrast with the soft nature of the colour palette, Bruised Bella wears a dentist’s mirror as a pendant. Rachel explains, ‘Accessories are metaphors for the human urge to transform. Clinical chrome dentistry and doctor’s apparatuses tweak, pluck and reinvent human form.’

rachellamb

The delicate creamy beige tones are mixed with flashes of blotchy pinks and peaches. Using her own Celtic complexion as a muse, the colour palette explores how a woman’s skin can act as what Rachel describes as an ‘emotional barometer.’ The fabrics move from silky, to matt textures and then to moulded leather. The collection appears like a journey through the skin and indeed through femininity; from youth to maturity, from cool composure to blushes of emotion, encompassing each woman’s preoccupations with the feminine self. “I am etched into this collection, as it is everything I am.”

controlled cass

The concept behind this collection is certainly thought provoking and if I’m honest, incredibly moving. The fashion world strives for perfection, and this collection champions the beauty of imperfection, the ever-changing shape of the female body. However, even without prior knowledge one can appreciate the complex technology employed in the use of contrasting fabrics, structure and draping. The pieces are visually stunning, yet from someone who has clearly had to battle against time and budget. It is refreshing to encounter a designer who can display her own consciousness so candidly into her collections. It seems that Rachel has a bright future ahead of her; with a talent to create pieces which are both aesthetically and conceptually striking.

rachelamb@hotmail.co.uk
asymetric amy blush

The best thing about attending an MA final fashion show is that you can well and truly leave your preconceptions at the door. That’s not to say that there hasn’t been a lot of interest in Rachel Lamb, click who is showing the culmination of her Fashion Scout has a reputation for showcasing up and coming designers tipped for the big time. Rachel was selected for the MRHC Nobellini competition and has spent this past year collaborating with a leading PhD student. She was also chosen to assist fashion artist Di Mainstone during her residency at Eye Beam, sildenafil a leading Arts and Technology centre in New York

cascade claudia

It’s clear a lot of blood, viagra 100mg sweat and tears have gone into the event, rather literally in fact. The theme of the night is ‘Bodylab.’ Projections of anatomical diagrams, mixed with design illustrations flicker on the walls and the music pulsates a fuzzy beat reminiscent of a broken heart monitor. Assistants are handing out promotional packs in white doctor’s coats. The designer has laid out articles presenting the inspiration behind the collection.

rachel lamb illustration

The lights dim and the music switches to various female covers of tracks such as Animal Collective’s ‘My Girls’ (or rather ‘My Boys’) . The scientific spell is broken and we are presented with what is clearly a very personal and feminine collection. Each piece seems to exhibit the ironic mix of female confidence and it’s frailties. The models strike provocative poses, elbows jutting out and spines curved backwards. This is not your typical runway show, it’s a performance piece.

flowing florence ii

The model’s movements serve to highlight the asymmetric silhouettes the pieces create. Sculpted hips are softened with silky drapes cascading down the neckline and thigh. It is easy to draw comparisons as a quirky mix of Donna Karan draping and Balenciaga construction.

rachellambvfs2009

Cascade Claudia, one of the collection’s most eye catching pieces, shows a rigid halter neck with chutes of draped silk jersey flowing down the back. The luxurious curves down the body develop into voluminous harem pants which cut off dramatically mid calf. The neutral tones almost merge with the model’s skin, meaning it is difficult to tell where the garment ends and her skin begins.

bruised bella

Accessories are kept to a minimum, with the real impact of the collection coming from the prints and shapes. Shoes follow the theme of subtle nudes, and seem to blend into the neutral shaded body suits. However to contrast with the soft nature of the colour palette, Bruised Bella wears a dentist’s mirror as a pendant. Rachel explains, ‘Accessories are metaphors for the human urge to transform. Clinical chrome dentistry and doctor’s apparatuses tweak, pluck and reinvent human form.’

rachellamb

The delicate creamy beige tones are mixed with flashes of blotchy pinks and peaches. Using her own Celtic complexion as a muse, the colour palette explores how a woman’s skin can act as what Rachel describes as an ‘emotional barometer.’ The fabrics move from silky, to matt textures and then to moulded leather. The collection appears like a journey through the skin and indeed through femininity; from youth to maturity, from cool composure to blushes of emotion, encompassing each woman’s preoccupations with the feminine self. “I am etched into this collection, as it is everything I am.”

controlled cass

The concept behind this collection is certainly thought provoking and if I’m honest, incredibly moving. The fashion world strives for perfection, and this collection champions the beauty of imperfection, the ever-changing shape of the female body. However, even without prior knowledge one can appreciate the complex technology employed in the use of contrasting fabrics, structure and draping. The pieces are visually stunning, yet from someone who has clearly had to battle against time and budget. It is refreshing to encounter a designer who can display her own consciousness so candidly into her collections. It seems that Rachel has a bright future ahead of her; with a talent to create pieces which are both aesthetically and conceptually striking.

Photographs by: Paul Marr
rachelamb@hotmail.co.uk
teenagers-in-tokyo12

I have a friend who trend spots for a jean company and she’s always mentioning that if you want to find out what the kids are going to be wearing next season walk around Tokyo with a camera. Recently she was unnerved to find a trend in early nineties Dreamcatcher chic. Is this good? Do we need the youth of next spring looking like refugees from the cover of Simply Red’s ‘Stars‘?

teenagers in tokyo

The band Teenagersintokyo, site who are actually from Sydney but spending time in London, pharmacy pull less surprises in future fashion, setting up stall in a combination of sounds we’ve had back in public domain for pretty much this entire decade now. It’s the eighties again, moving onto 1989, even 1990. Swilling the wine of sound around my gullet I can hear traces of ‘Disintegration’ era Cure, a little early shoegaze, a backwash of Stereolab.

teenagers in tokyo2

But OK, lets be clear. Familiarity of influence aside, this double A-side is, like The Horrors‘ recent opus, a mesmerically successful collation where the transparency of influences matter little when combined in such a haunting, atmospheric way. Isabella is lovely and distraught, an all decaying romance lilting for one final surge of hope like a drunken Isabelle Adjani tearfully carousing the memory of her dead lover in a Parisian graveyard. Long Walk Home builds on the wintery artificial synth pads much beloved of Sir Bob, and like The Cure‘s namesake song, it’s lullaby girl vocals understand misery can be sweet – heartbreak not without its beauty.

Forget the over familiarity with this well mined era, Teenagersintokyo build on tangible atmosphere and sorrow rather than Dalston Superstore posturing.

This double A-side single is released on 5th October on Back Yard Recordings.

Categories ,goth, ,grunge, ,isabelle adjani, ,london, ,pop, ,punk, ,sir bob geldof, ,stereolab, ,sydney, ,teenagersintokyo, ,the cure, ,the horrors

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