Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: lovers of Raggedy Grunge

Agnieszka Kowalska by Victoria Haynes
Agnieszka Kowalska by Victoria Haynes.

I have learnt that grungey raggedy looks are a great favourite of Polish fashion designers. And so is grey. How they love their greys! No surprise then that this round up includes both of The Golden Thread winners.

Sabina Koryl
Sabina Koryl Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Sabina Koryl Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Sabina Koryl Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Sabina Koryl Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Sabina Koryl showed a 90s influenced grunge collection of deconstructed leather and rubberised garments in dark shades, more about accessorised with dangling reflectors and round sunglasses.

Dominka Naziebly
Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Dominka Naziebly was all about the distressed denim, mangled knitwear dangling in swishing loops and my favourite piece: a fun squished fabric layered red dress that called to mind the work of Georgia Hardinge. I think the garments might have been made from recycled fabrics, for which she gets massive brownie points.

Gareth A Hopkins Monika Jaworska Golden Thread
Monika Jaworska by Gareth A Hopkins.

Monika Jaworska
Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Monika Jaworska showed a military meets peasant collection with lots of highly wearable frayed louche shapes in beiges and neutrals; a clear commercial favourite that would easily translate into production. She won the Pret a Porter Golden Thread category.

Agnieszka Kowalska
Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Winner
Agnieszka Kowalska presented one of my favourite Golden Thread collections: flamboyant tea stained flounces layered in tattered circus style sent down the catwalk to a soundtrack of traditional hornpipes. Tights and socks were holey and muddy, exposing bony knees, and in the case of one particular man, way too much.

Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Winner
It was all going so incredibly well until he stepped out on the catwalk. No no no, man with chunky thighs in tights not good. Not for Fall/Winter, not ever. Despite this glaring faux pas Agnieszka Kowalska was a worthy winner of the Premiere Vision category.

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Agnieszka Kowalska, ,Dominka Naziebly, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,grunge, ,Lodz, ,Modus Vivendi, ,Monika Jaworska, ,poland, ,Premiere Vision, ,Pret-a-porter, ,Raggedy Grunge, ,recycled, ,Sabina Koryl, ,Szałapot, ,The Golden Thread, ,Victoria Haynes, ,Winner

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch

LFW-Georgia Hardinge_by Krister Selin
Georgia Hardinge by Krister Selin.

I really enjoy the Ones to Watch because it inevitably features a plethora of new talent all wheeled out in one show on the same hastily repackaged models, page meaning that a compromise must inevitably be reached concerning casting, viagra 60mg hair and make up – for timing’s sake. And usually the standard is very high. This time round we were treated to four very different young designers, side effects or at least young to the world of fashion:

LFW_Lillee_Abigail Nottingham
Lilee by Abigail Nottingham.

London College of Fashion graduate Lilee showed an all cream collection (or was that the yellow glow of the lights?) of drapes and folds and pleats, though I found it hard to make out the exciting sculptural qualities promised by her previous collections as seen online. It was very demure and tasteful, but not that exciting for a colour hound like myself.

Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Lilee photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Lilee photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Next up was my pick of the bunch: Charlotte Taylor laid breast plate adornments and over-sized pendants over a confident collection of dresses and shorts presented in a chirpy fashion. I loved the fetching colour range of tomato, mustard, fresh mint green and wedgewood blues, presented with robot prints and striped cutaway detailing. Her blog states ” Don’t expect – black” Very good. We like. Apparently she used to work at Luella, and this easy going, playful and highly wearable collection was synonymous with the style that Luella was so well known for. I particularly loved the high wasted velvet shorts and crop top combo. Keep an eye on this designer.

Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Charlotte Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Charlotte Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Charlotte Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Charlotte Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Charlotte Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Charlotte Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Charlotte Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW_Charlotte Taylor by Abigail Nottingham
LFW_Charlotte Taylor by Abigail Nottingham
Charlotte Taylor by Abigail Nottingham.

Sadly A.Hallucination did not show psychedelic fare as I had rather hoped for: but rather some quite nice dandyish menswear. The duo of Hwan Sun Park and Chung Chung Lee are graduates of you know where…. (Central… need I say the rest?) and cut an amusing pair when they took their turn to bow on the catwalk. It was also a highly polished – fun yet wearable – collection, and I liked the shorts paired with low slung cut waistcoats and jackets featuring pretty details such as toggles and zippered pleats.

Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A.Hallucination photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A.Hallucination photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A.Hallucination photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A.Hallucination photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A.Hallucination photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW-A Hallucination by Krister Selin
LFW-A Hallucination by Krister Selin
A.Hallucination by Krister Selin.

Next up was the hot tip for the show – Georgia Hardinge. And I must say that the ruffle covered wedding-ish concoctions were initially as appealing as Bjork dressed in THAT swan dress: even the shoes and models’ poker straight hair did not escape a serious ruffling. But then came the real show stoppers – netted chiffon sculptural dresses that seemed almost to have come from the mind of a different person altogether. These emphasised the hips and waist in peculiar ways – destined, like the ruffles, only to look good on the most waifish of people.

Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Georgia Hardinge photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Georgia Hardinge photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Georgia Hardinge photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Georgia Hardinge photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Georgia Hardinge photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Georgia Hardinge photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Georgia Hardinge photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW-Georgia Hardinge by Krister Selin
LFW-Georgia Hardinge by Krister Selin
Georgia Hardinge by Krister Selin.

Previous collections have been interesting, but I’m not sure I was sold on the concept of this one, which was allegedly an analysis of what a woman is… I did however like the final bright yellow number, which looked less meringue bridesmaid and more cheeky 80s cocktail dress. I’m definitely sticking with Charlotte Taylor as my fave though.

Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Georgia Hardinge photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Georgia Hardinge photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,A.Hallucination, ,Abigail Nottingham, ,Charlotte Taylor, ,Chung Chung Lee, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,Hwan Sun Park, ,Krister Selin, ,lfw, ,Lilee, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ones To Watch

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Georgia Hardinge

Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 by Jane Young
Georgia Hardinge S/S 2012 by Jane Young.

Former One to Watch and Merit Award winner Georgia Hardinge presented her S/S 2012 to an eager audience at Fashion Scout. Cubed was ‘inspired by the dark nature of cubo-futurism‘ – obvious in the multi-layered geometric lines that followed the contours of the female models on sheer blouses, this tight bodycon dresses and swirling capes.

Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW Georgia Hardinge S/S 2012 by Celine Choo
Georgia Hardinge S/S 2012 by Celine Choo.

A predominant colour palette of soft grey was broken with luscious tangerine orange, recipe summery yellow and stark white. With Georgia Hardinge the question has always been how to combine her more avante garde sculptural creations with commercial wearability and if Cubed was anything to go by she has figured this out with the utmost panache: a conversation with an eager buyer confirmed my feelings that this was her most saleable collection yet, especially now that Mary Katrantzou has paved the way for a new generation of extravagantly shaped garments. Even boxy mini skirts with sharpened edges and fold down details on chests were eminently wearable without losing anything of the signature Georgia Hardinge aesthetic.

Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
georgia_hardinge_by_ada_jusic
Georgia Hardinge S/S 2012 by Ada Jusic.

Digital printing has allowed for a revolution in textile design that simply wasn’t possible when I was studying the old methods of screenprinting at university in the 90s. I can’t deny that I sometimes miss the limitations that screenprinting enforced on design but when digital printing is done well the results are wholly unique, as in Georgia Hardinge‘s stunning new collection. In Cubed the complexity and cleverness of Georgia’s print techniques reached its apotheosis in the last dress to float away in a cloud of cubist wonder. A beautiful collection.

Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ada Jusic, ,bodycon, ,Capes, ,Celine Choo, ,Cubism, ,Cubo-Futurism, ,Digital Printing, ,Fashion Scout, ,Futurism, ,geometric, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,Grey, ,Jane Young, ,London Kills Me, ,Merit Award, ,Ones To Watch, ,Orange, ,screenprinting, ,Sculptural, ,Sheer

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Georgia Hardinge (by Amelia)

roman-baths
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson.

I think I might have been unfairly harsh about Georgia Hardinge last season: I take it all back. This was an extraordinary show for the former Ones to Watch candidate. One to Watch Like a Hawk more like. Georgia has been chosen for special Fashion Scout mentoring and this collection proved that all the hype has been totally worthy.

Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011 by Lou Taylor
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011 by Lou Taylor.

Georgia is undoubtedly enamoured of the dark side of life, find so her A/W collection was inspired by the photographs of Joel-Peter Witkin, visit web who favours themes of death and disfigurement. The prints – ethereal white on black and building on similar ones from last season – were based on internal anatomies, digitally warped to create butterfly-like symmetrical patterning on tops, trousers and figure hugging dresses.

Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011 by Faye West
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011 by Faye West.

But it is for her sculptural techniques that Georgia Hardinge has built such a glowing reputation in record time, and this time I was perfectly placed in the front row to admire the intricately layered and pleated dresses, tight trousers and leather jackets up close. By working with the contours of the figure she had created a far more wearable collection than last season, whilst still retaining her singular vision: the show climaxed with a magnificent whorled and hunched cream coat, worn on the shoulders like the carapace of an exotic beetle.

Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

She may have had an under attended grave yard slot early on Saturday morning but Georgia is most definitely one of London Fashion Week’s rising stars. You can read Florence Massey’s review here.

You can see more work by Faye West in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,Florence Massey, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,Joel-Peter Witkin, ,Lou Taylor, ,Ones To Watch, ,Rebecca Strickson

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Georgia Hardinge


Georgia Hardinge by Kiran Patel

Recipient of the VFS Merit Award, pill Gerogia Hardinge is far more than the Ones to Watch designer she was last season. Her first stand alone collection drew the likes of fashion press favourite Nicola Roberts and packed out the Freemason’s Hall venue. Another committed member of the digital prints parade, story her prints have always fascinated me, cialis 40mg using unusual patterns as the starting point for her patterns: fossils and sculptures of the Versailles have both been inspirations. This February, Hardinge sent monochrome skeletal prints down the runway played out on leggings, tight half-sleeve dresses and body-con tops. Inspired by the dark, and sometimes disturbing photography of Joel Peter Witkin, the concept of death, destruction and disfiguration was emphasised on streamlined silhouettes and her signature structural pieces.

Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The second half of the show was a little lighter, due to the injection of bone white, buttermilk, brown and dusky peach leathers or suede. A particular favourite fo me was a dark brown playsuit with centre detailing and a little nipped in waist. Hardinge cleverly used the robust leather so that she could engineer it to do what she wanted. Pleats, folds, and stiff overlapping layers on sleeves, legs and bodies were key in adding volume to otherwise clean, simple and effortless pieces. Since last season, there is a clear progression in Hardinge’s style, with the designer confident to present a collection that was more paired down (basic colours, restrained detailing) than that which she presented as one of the Ones to Watch.

Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryGeorgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Digital Print, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,Hardinge, ,Illustrating Rain, ,Kiran Patel, ,london, ,S/S 2011, ,Skeletal Print

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Mark Fast

Masha Ma A/W 2011 by Liam McMa
Masha Ma A/W 2011 by Natsuki Otani
Masha Ma A/W 2011 by Natsuki Otani.

Masha Ma is undoubtedly one of my very favourite designers right now so it was with utmost dismay that I encountered a major logistical error early on Sunday morning. Which required me to hot foot it back to my house in order to pick up press releases for Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration in time for the opening of Ecoluxe. In the end I managed to scoot my way into the back of the Freemasons Hall just in time to see most of the show, sick although I had to make do with the sight of my contributors happily ensconced in the front row as I craned for a view from the back. Oh the ignominy.

Masha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Masha Ma A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

Hers is a self-described “architectural” way of designing, web cutting swathes of fabric to hang in flattering folds. Following her all white S/S Icebreaker debut, buy information pills for DeCon Masha Ma explored elegant tailoring in pale duck egg blue, dusky rose, flinty grey and ice mint.

Masha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim AdeyMasha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim AdeyMasha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim AdeyMasha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim Adey
Masha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim Adey.

Crepe, satin and organza curled into delicate scrolls on collars and hips; woollen waterfalls cascaded down the front of coats. All accessorised with the most amazing come-fuck-me pillar box red boots – over the thigh, shiny and skin tight.

Masha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Masha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Eyes peeped out from below side swept fringes: sexy secretaries in tight pencil skirts. High collars were a theme, either tightly rolled polo necks or carefully pleated to bring a touch of Renaissance drama to otherwise thoroughly modern outfits.

Masha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim Adey
Masha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim Adey.

The show finished on a couple of beautiful black outfits, which were given that all important lift thanks to red lipstick and gloss red fingerless gloves that complemented those amazing boots. Just glorious.

Masha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia Gregory
That’s Naomi and Tim over there that is, taking much better photos than me. I couldn’t even see the boots. Jealous, moi? Not muchly…

Click here to read a review by the much better placed Naomi Law. You can see more of Natsuki Otani’s work in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

I cannot tell a lie, dosage having tried in vain for several seasons to get tickets, symptoms I was super excited to finally be in attendance at a Mark Fast show. Knitwear was my first love: I spent much of teens knitting 80s tastic jumpers and despite opting to specialise in printed textile design at university I eventually started a knitwear label at the same time as Amelia’s Magazine. Unfortunately it became apparent that the magazine was going to dominate my time and energy, so now my big bags of ethically dyed rare breed wool sit languishing in my parents attic.

Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow.

Knitwear has been overlooked by high fashion for a long time, but in recent years there have been encouraging signs of its resurgence – with designers such as Mark Fast, Cooperative Designs and Alice Palmer leading the way. Mark has become well known for sexy figure hugging pieces with dramatic details that he creates using specialised techniques.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Loving the fairy light look!

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

This season he worked predominantly in merino wool in oatmeal, beige, shades of orange and black to create ribbed and ridged bodycon numbers fit for the most glamourous cocktail party. He also worked in leather with Canadian retailer Danier to create complementary pieces that included sexy corseted tops, wide legged trousers and buttersoft crop jackets, worn with sheer fabric and swishing straps. High necks followed a familiar trend for A/W 2011, as did the use of deep orange. One particular standout piece was a massive round shouldered ridged cardigan that called to mind a similar piece by fellow design innovator Georgia Hardinge.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Dresses and coats with plush shoulder bolsters worked especially well, as did the plump trim on a mini dress worn with a giant fluffy hat and platforms. Also of note was a swirling maxi skirted number with covered arms that only left the shoulders sexily bare. Boots were knee high and louche; accessories included big bangles and spiky neckpieces.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended on a showpiece backless leather hooded coat, trailing a huge train behind like a sweeping Hollywood baddie. Once more Mark Fast chose normal sized women to model his collection with the use of several “plus size” models. These lush beauties only served to emphasise the extreme skinniness of the few extremely bony girls included in the show. And the joy of it? These dresses arguably worked way better on the models of more normal size.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

This is one happy bunny to have at last seen a Mark Fast show.

Categories ,80s, ,Alice Palmer, ,BFC, ,canada, ,Cooperative Designs, ,Danier, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,knitwear, ,lfw, ,Liam McMahon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mark Fast, ,Merino, ,Michaela Meadow, ,plus size, ,Somerset House, ,wool

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Amelia’s Magazine | LFW AW10/11: Women’s Wear Preview

Louse Goldin

GOLD_SS10_0272The first designer tipped for great things later this week is Louise Goldin, buy cialis 40mg who last month was named as the winner of the illustrious Fashion Forward sponsorship scheme. Renowned for her innovative knitwear designs including; short figure enhancing knitted dresses, viagra dosage separates and swimwear, Louise often incorporates both unusual weaving techniques and futuristic patterns earning her the epithet ‘Queen of Knits’.

LouisegoldinWhilst busily producing designs for her eponymous label Louise also finds to work on her esteemed collections for Topshop, with this spring seeing her debut a capsule footwear range of studded court shoes set to put the fierce back into fashion week.
Louise Goldin is showing at LFW at 3:15pm on Sunday 21st Feb in the Topshop space.

Bryce Aime

Bryce1One of my favourite designers of recent seasons has to be Bryce Aime, who launched his self named label back in 2006. A designer who understands the difference between conceptual and commercial design, Bryce’s unique combination offers his customers sexy and understated garments with a twist of edgy and dramatic tailoring.

bryce2Bryce’s current SS10 collection channels 50’s Parisian Chic, combining his classic tailoring techniques with futuristic body con structures to great effect.
Bryce Aime is showing at LFW at 11:30am on Saturday 20th Feb as part of On|Off.

Georgia Hardinge

georgia 1
Another great designer looking to make her stamp on the British fashion industry next season is that of Georgia Hardinge. Best known for her figure enhancing dresses, each garment is specifically designed to ‘map the silhouette and curves of the female line’.
georgia2With a penchant for avant-garde tailoring Georgia produces highly controlled yet progressive pieces which successfully juxtapose the futurism of sculptural design with femininity, empowering the her legion of customers without being overtly sexual. Georgia is taking part in the LFW exhibition at Somerset House between 19-23rd February.

Belle Sauvage

Belle1A relatively new label, having emerged on the scene in 2008, Belle Sauvage is the brainchild of design duo Virginia Ferreira and Christian Neuman. Best known for their eye-popping digital prints and electric use of colour, this is one brand who look set to achieve the unachievable, having the fashion world eating out of the palm of their hands.

belle_sauvage_ss10_650px_02Fresh for SS10 the enigmatic duo have sampled block colouring in shocking scarlet and electric blues creating a contrast to the clashing primary hues of the geometric graphic prints and trademark lipstick detailing visible throughout. With a subtle nod to futurism referenced throughout the collection you’ll see conical shaped breasts, origami-inspired directional cuts across the hips and the occasional boxy shoulder.
Belle Sauvage is showing at LFW at 5:00pm on Saturday 20th Feb as part of On|Off.

Gemma Slack

slack1The last designer I’m tipping for greatness at LFW is the one and only Gemma Slack. Having graduated last year, SS10 sees Gemma’s second post-graduate collection inspired by fetishised super heroines and metal girls. Never one to toe-the-line with conventional designs this season sees Gemma experimenting with leather, suede, aluminium and steel to produce a highly unique and futuristic collection.

slack2
Looking to empower women across the nation, Gemma’s collections tend to be bold, brash and above all strong. By using biomechanics to combine body and science, Gemma successfully replicates the ideology of transformation through costume.
Gemma Slack is showcasing a presentation at LFW between 5-8pm on Friday 19th Feb.

Categories ,Belle Sauvage, ,BFC, ,Bryce Aime, ,Christian Neuman, ,Fashion-forward, ,Gemma Slack, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,lfw, ,LFW AW10/11: Women’s Wear Preview, ,Louse Goldin, ,topshop, ,Virginia Ferreira

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Amelia’s Magazine | Georgia Hardinge collection at the On|Off exhibition

999 it’s time, sildenafil erectile is another green focused campaign. As the website notes “We are in a state of emergency – socially, store economically and ecologically. What do we do in an emergency? In the UK, viagra 100mg we dial 999…” Well that all sounds pretty heartening until you realise that the 999 campaigns reaction to this emergency hasn’t exactly been particularly speedy so far. I can’t help feeling that the climate emergency we are facing means groups should be advocating some real direct action rather than just planting a tree or joining the 10:10 movement. However the campaign has some great initiatives to get the ball rolling and hopefully get more people thinking about the global crisis.

suzyillustration1%20copy.jpg
All illustrations by Suzy Phillips

Of course the campaign does have some credibility, it encourages people to get more environmentally friendly, and behind the celebrity endorsements 999 has some forward thinking ideas about how communities in particular can work together to create a more sustainable world. Transforming rural and urban spaces into shared land to grow food has been one of the most successful elements. Capital Growth is the place to start with a great run through of the process and steps and how to get involved. Land sharing empowers people by growing their own food and creating stronger links in communities as well as reducing the reliance on supermarkets. A definite step in the right direction.

suzyillustration2%20copy.jpg

I caught up with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, the rural country celebrity chef, to talk about his part in the 999 campaign.

Can you outline what 999′s main priority is about and why you’re here today?

999 is about driving home the issue of climate change and what we ourselves can do to combat the emergency situation we have found ourselves in. I’ve come today because our aim ties in with the Climate Rush campaign, and its a great way to get talking with the local community, and of course it’s the 9th of the 9th 09.

How is the 999 campaign coming along? It doesn’t seemed to have gained as much prominence in the press such as campaigns like the recent 10:10?

It’s an on-going process, im specifically been looking at the food aspect, and as the ambassador I’m really interested in what small scale communities can do to combat the threat of climate change.

Can you please give some examples of the message your trying to get across in relation to the food aspect of the campaign?

With my books and TV series I’ve been highlighting the importance of locally grown produce and recently I’ve been pushing the idea of land sharing. The idea is to find land, whether in urban or rural spaces where people can grow their own food, there is so much land wasted around the UK that can be used. With over a thousand people on waiting lists for allotments especially in the south, it is vital we utilize all the land we can instead of relying on foreign markets for our vegetables. Food is a great way to create a cohesive community and bring people together.

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How is the land sharing campaign going, have you had much success?

We’ve had over a thousand land plots given to us and up to 30,000 people signing up to the website, so it’s defiantly getting people interested. The campaign is also working with groups like the Church of England and a range of British NGOs. The National Trust for example has just given us 1000 plots of land, so although it’s quite a slow process, there’s been a real positive reaction across the country.

With your interest in climate change, have the facts about the meat industry’s huge carbon footprint persuaded you to become vegetarian yet?

No, not yet, I’m aware of the issues, and I keep by own pigs and livestock, and always advocate buying locally soured meat to keep the carbon footprint low.

So let’s hope this campaign can help to stop this emergency from escalating, with 1 day, 11 hours, 9 minutes since 999 Day, the pressure is on.
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Designers in Residence @ the Design Museum
September 18 – October 31

The Design Museum’s annual exhibition of young designers begins on September 18 with site-specific works from Marc Owens and Dave Bowker. Owens is inspired by virtual realities – his work Avatar Machine replicates video gaming via a headset (above), order designed to make the wearer see themselves as a virtual character in the real world. Bowker works in data visualisation and will be re-examining the way visitors move about the Museum.

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Open House weekend

Once a year thousands of London’s most interesting and historic buildings are opened to the public, sale some of which are locked up tight for the rest of the year. Although some of the most popular buildings in the centre of London have already been completely booked, drugs there are still plenty of places worth visiting.

If you haven’t got your eye on anything in your local area, consider visiting the house of Dr Samuel Johnson, of “the dictionary” fame. It’s free to visit on Friday (there will be free cake on this day) and Saturday, in honour of the great man’s birthday.

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Radical Nature

This exhibition of works revolving around nature and inspired by environmentalism features pieces from architect Richard Buckminster Fuller and artists such as Joseph Beuys and Hans Haacke, as well as newer names such as Heath and Ivan Morrison and Simon Starling. Impactful and timely, there are lots of strong visual statements such as the Fallen Forest by Henrik Håkansson (above) and a visual record of the fields of wheat planted as an act of protest on a landfill site in Manhattan.

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Thames Festival

Sunday

One of the few fireworks displays allowed along the Thames will occur on Sunday when the Thames Festival fireworks are set off in all their glory, fired from barges between Blackfriars and Waterloo Bridge so everyone can get a perfect view. There are also events all day, including fire-eaters, an outdoor ballroom (starting to become the South Bank’s speciality) and the annual Night Carnival, where 2,000 costumed revellers bearing lanterns and luminous costumes will welcome the pyrotechnics.
Another load of talks, healing workshops and activities to get stuck into, information pills don’t forget Co-Mutiny is still on all this week in Bristol, Climate Rush are still on tour, and also make sure you get down to protest against the closure of the Vestas Wind Turbine factory this Thursday. Good luck with fitting it all in, I’m certainly going to struggle!

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Illustrations by Emma Hanquist

Cambridge Climate Conference
Monday 14 Sep 2009 to Tuesday 15 Sep 2009 ?

An exciting event has been organised with international speakers and delegates involved in policy-making, business, and academia. Understanding the role of climate change policy is central to a business’s future success. Topics will include the political, economical, technological, and legal challenges and solutions for decarbonising electricity.
To register for a discounted ticket visit the website and enter ‘ge2009′ as the discount code.

Time: 9am-5pm
Venue: Churchill College, Cambridge, UK
Website: www.cambridgeclimate.com/

A Global New Deal needs a Green New Protectionism
Wednesday 16 Sep 2009 ?

An evening to learn and discuss the ‘triple crunch’ that we face: climate change, energy insecurity, and financial and economic meltdown. Colin Hines, Author and convener of the Green New Deal Group will be leading the talks. Colin has worked in the environmental movement for over 30 years including 10 years at Greenpeace. His recent work focuses on the adverse environmental and social effects of international trade and the need to solve these problems by replacing globalisation with localisation. During the evening there will also be a tribute to ‘Teddy’ Goldsmith, founder of The Ecologist magazine.

Time: 6.30pm drinks and food, 7.30pm talk begins at Burgh House
Venue: Gaia House, 18 Well Walk, Hampstead
Contacts: To book email, book online or call 0207 428 0054.
Website: www.gaiafoundation.org

Protest against the closure of Vestas Wind Turbine Factory
Thursday 17 Sep 2009 ?

As well as the continuing protest against the closure of the Vestas Wind Turbine factory at the Isle of Wight, there will also be a chance for people to make their feelings known across the country. People are meeting at the Department of Energy and Climate Change in London to lobby against the government. There will also be speakers including John Mcdonnel, MP (Labour, Hayes and Harlington) and Tracy Edwards (Young Members Organiser for the Public and Commercial Services Union).
Couldn’t put it better than Phil Thornhill from the Campaign against Climate Change “Just when we need a huge expansion in renewable energy they are closing down the only significant wind turbine factory in the UK. The government has spent billions bailing out the banks, and £2.3 billion in loan guarantees to support the UK car industry – they can and should step in to save the infrastructure we are really going to need prevent a climate catastrophe.
Whilst the impact on employment on the Isle of Wight will be quite devastating, this is an issue not just about jobs or one factory but about whether the government is really going to match up its actions to its rhetoric on green jobs and the rapid decarbonisation of the British economy – whether its prepared to act with the kind of resolution and energy we need to cope with the Climate Emergency”.

Time: 5.30 to 6.30pm
Venue: Outside the Department of Energy and Climate Change, 3 Whitehall Place.
?Website: www.campaigncc.org

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Out of the Ordinary Festival
Friday 18 Sep 2009 to Sunday 20 Sep 2009
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OOTO is a 3 day family friendly and eco friendly festival set in the beautiful Sussex countryside celebrating the Autumn Equinox. Featuring a variety of live music powered by solar panels and wind generators, fascinating talks and workshops, children’s activities, awesome performances, a green market place and many more out of the ordinary surprises. The festival is also offering Big Green Gathering ticket holders a discount for the event held over the weekend
Venue: Knockhatch Farm, Hailsham, East Sussex
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Website: www.outoftheordinaryfestival.com

Tree-Athlon
Saturday 19th September

Get fit and get your very own tree sapling to take home! Participants run a 5km race to raise money for Trees for Cities, an independent environmental charity working with local communities on tree planting projects. There is also music, entertainment, lots of tree-themed activities, whatever that may consist of, and plenty of other workshops to keep the whole family entertained.
The race is open to runners aged 14 and up and is ideal for beginners or experienced runners alike. Register now, to make sure you can raise as much sponsorship as possible before the day, and look forward to a grand day out.

Time: 9am-3pm
Venue: Battersea Park
Website: www.tree-athlon.org

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The Urban Green Fair ?
Sunday 20th September

?The Urban Green Fair is held in Brockwell Park in London this Sunday, Its a free event and with plenty to do and see, the fair is also powered by solar and wind energy.
The annual family event, has a range of films, talks, workshops, kids activities, stalls, sunshine as well as some unusual bicycles. Unfortunatly no bars or big stages but this keeps the emphasis on education and communication. A chance to share ideas, meet familiar faces and make new friends. With little government action on peak oil and climate change there is plenty to discuss and lots we can do as individuals. ?

Time:11am-7pm
?Venue: Brockwell Park, Lambeth
Website: http://www.urbangreenfair.org/

Leytonstone Car Free Day
Sunday 20th September

Leytonstone Town Centre will car free day this Sunday. As well as having no vehicles hurtling around there will also be entertainment, stalls, live music, dancing, public art and childrens’ play areas. Simon Webbe from Blue and Aswad will be headlining! Get yourself down, and make sure you leave the car(if you’ve got one) at home.
Time: 1pm-7pm
Venue: Outside Leyonstone tube station
Website: www.walthamforest.gov.uk

Co-mutiny
Saturday 12th of September until Monday 21st September

A coming together of activists, eco-warriors gardeners, artists, community/political groups, cooks, builders etc. to demonstrate our creative power to build a city/world we would like to see. Co-Mutineers have taken an old cathedral (of the holy apostles) near the Triangle in the Clifton/Hotwells area, it’s a space to converge, eat, sleep meet and discuss, plan and skill-share!
There will be over a week of different activities, direct actions, workshops, film screenings, public demonstrations and parties. It’s happening all across Bristol and the wider South West.

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During the week there will be actions happening all across the city, which will climax in a fancy dress carnival through the financial district of Bristol on the Friday.
Venue: Bristol Pro Cathedral, Park Place, BS8 1JW
Website: http://comutiny.wordpress.com/
Monday 14th September
William Elliott Whitmore
The Garage, order London

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We can’t get enough of this distilled, medications gravelly bluesman. With Whitmore, it’s almost like you’re listening from inside a huge bottle of JD.

Tuesday 15th September
We Have Band
ICA, London

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This trio spin the grooves of Talking Heads via a stop off and natter with Hot Chip, it’ll make you jive and smile.

Wednesday 16th September
Beth Jeans Houghton
Rough Trade East, London

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Having supported folk heavy weights, Tunng, Bon Iver, and King Creosote, this ballsy 19 year old manages to blend the vocal lustre of Nico and Laura Marling whilst having an edgy stage presence more like Gwen Stefani. Beguiling.

Thursday 17th September
Alela and Laura Gibson
Shepherds Bush Empire, London

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We chatted to Alela recently and she was as lovely as her music. Gibson toes a similar line of enchanting bluesy folk airs.

Friday 18th September
Metronomy, Male Bonding, Your Twenties and Drums Of Death
The Forum, London

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We’re particularly keen on the immaculate indie-pop of Your Twenties after meeting the lovely ex-Metronomy frontman. Nice to see they’re still close.

Saturday 19th September
Tom Paley and Birdengine
The Deptford Arms, London

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A traditional folk night in a scuzzy South-East London boozer. You want more reason that that? Well living legend, Tom Paley who played with Woodie Guthrie back in the day and enchantingly odd, Birdengine are two big ones.

Sunday 20th September
Viv Albertine and Get Back Guinozzi!
The Windmill, London

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The Slits guitarist has picked up a guitar again after a 25 year sabbatical and come up trumps with punk rock outfit, Albertine.


Monday 14th


Rankin at The Truman Brewery

It’s the last chance to see Rankin’s retrospective in Brick Lane this week. The exhibition moves through Rankin at university exploring the well worn art student quest to find a sense of self to portraying the plight of the Congo. After this introduction the exhibition opens onto his best know fashion, website erotic and beauty editorials. Featuring Kate, Hedi, Tilda Swinton and the Dame of British Fashion, Vivienne Westwood to name a few. Rankin’s strongest work comes through in the portraits where he has assumed a sense of a relationship with the sitter, tweaking out their quirks through the movement of an eyebrow, eye or twitch of the lips or neck. Throughout the exhibition Rankin moved his studio into the space to continue photographing the public portraits. A portion of everyone’s fee goes to support Oxfam’s to work in the Congo.
Until the 18th September.

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Tuesday

START KNITTING with prick your finger!

Recent years have seen a rise in designers revisiting craft techniques, with knitting proving to be especially popular with a range of creatives from Louise Goldin to Mark Fast. Last week Amelia’s Magazine participated in a Prick Your Finger discussion on the use and sourcing of local ethical wool and the continuing rise in the popularity of knitting.Join on a Tuesday 7-9 for beginners classes with all your knitting woes and joys.

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Thursday

Fashion Diversity at The Museum of London

The Museum of London is staging a three day fashion diversity event during London Fashion Week. On Thursday the museum hosts a range of workshops from a discussion of the development of sustainable fashion by CHOOLIPS, to a Moving Passion to Profit workshop in association with the MOORDESIGN salon finishing with the importance of branding. Colour Production, addressing how companies interact with their audience visually. Finally 7-16 year olds are giving the opportunity to unlock their creativity in a fashion drawing workshop teaching concentration, communication and dexterity.

Friday and Saturday host the fashion diversity catwalks: Emerging, Established and Honorary designers at 1pm or 3pm Friday and 1pm on Saturday, places are free. Honorary designers Junky Styling and Nico Didonna also present pieces for the runway.

To conclude Saturday’s event, at 3pm student and graduate designers from schools and colleges across London showcase designs inspired by 18th century pleasure gardens and related costumes from from the Museum of London’s archives.

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SHOWstudio : Fashion Revolution

Unable to go to Fashion Week? Fear not! As mentioned last week, the Fashion Revolution exhibition opens at Somerset House. The exhibition curated by Showstudio celebrates nine years of Showstudio.com. The website established by Nick Knight has pushed and developed the idea of communicating fashion ‘live’ through films, online live interviews and streamed performances involving photographers, models, stylists graphic designers and cultural figures to create ethereal fashion portraiture and communication through body and style. New fashion films have been commissioned to accompany the exhibition, alongside a live photographic studio that gives the viewer the opportunity to see the whimsical world of fashion in play.

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Saturday 19th


GIANT VINTAGE SALE

This just dropped into the inbox – The East End thrift store are inviting all budding clothing DIY’ers to come down to the store and fill a bag with all that you can for ten or twenty pounds. Open Saturday to Sunday from 10-7pm.

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The National Portrait Gallery

The National Portrait Gallery celebrates the icon of 60′s British Fashion photography, Twiggy. Dedicating a room to the most iconic images created with her image by a range of photographers from Richard Avedon to Solve Sundsbo. The exhibition coincides with a publication of a new book: Twiggy : A life in photography. This exhibition is a must for anyone interested in the relationship between sitter and photography in fashion portraiture.

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Roll up Roll up and take part in Covent Garden’s fashion fete

Pull the fashion rope, roll around in dressing up boxes courtesy of Costume Boutique. Jump up and Down for the tombola, be styled by Super Super Magazine, scouted by models 1 or preview some of the hottest new design talent with the Fashion and Textiles museum.
Moreover TRAID are holding a stitching workshop on how to transform old clothes into new designs as demonstrated by their remade range.

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The London Vegan Festival this year took place in Kensington Town Hall, ask and was absolutely heaving. Usually, store the odds of bumping into another vegan are slightly higher than those of two Esperanto speakers meeting, so hanging out in a hall packed full of them was a new experience – as was not having to ask ‘Is there dairy in this?’ at every food stall. Bliss.

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Almost as soon as someone mentions becoming vegan, people start to get a panicked look on their faces and tend to begin listing reasons why they couldn’t possibly give up cheese. The general consensus is that a vegan diet is deprived and difficult. Just a quick glance over these photos ought to give anyone with that mindset pause for thought.
Never-mind having never been in a room with so many vegans before, I’d never been in a room filled with so much vegan cake! I ate my way around the festival, starting with a deliciously gooey chocolate brownie, discovered vegan crème eggs half-way round, swung by the Conscious Chocolate stall for my free samples and a bar of Choca Mocha Magic, then hung out with Redwoods comparing the Lincolnshire sausages to the hot dogs. (Hawt dawgs won, hands done.) Veggies provided me with some real food, in the form of a massive Cheezley burger, giving me the energy I needed to head to some of the talks.

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Being vegan isn’t all about the food (though, let’s be honest. It is mostly about the food) and there was a wealth of information at the Festival ranging from talks on vegan nutrition (okay, food again), taking action against animal testing and extreme vegan sports (like regular extreme sports, but partaken of by vegans. Not like preparing scrambled tofu at 30,000 feet. Though, that would be something I would pay to see) to stalls run by the Secret Society of Vegans, animal rights groups and Active Distribution – a bookstall filled with vegan recipe books and anarchist ‘zines. There was information relevant to every level of vegan interest; aspiring, political, dietary…
There was plenty of entertainment too, in the form of magicians, musicians and comedians. (Never let it be said that vegans are without a sense of humour.) I saw Andrew O’Neill, a vegan comedian, who has recently come off the Fringe and was hilarious. Wibbling between whimsical and cruel, from the ‘scat-nav’ to “Kill a Fascist for Grandad” in replacement of the current “Hope not Hate” campaign, he had me laughing from start to finish.

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So, why vegan? We already have McCartney pushing for Meat-Free Mondays, do we really need Dairy-Free Days of the Week as well? I’m on the ‘Yes’ side for that one. Going vegan reduces support for the livestock industry down to zero, on a personal level. (Y’know the livestock industry I’m talking about. The one helping out with Climate Change by about 18%.) If you’re serious about wanting to reduce your environmental impact on the Earth and already cycle everywhere, reuse and recycle, turn your taps off when brushing your teeth, then this is the next step in armchair activism. You don’t need to head up to London to protest, or write letters to your MP. Just start buying dairy-free marge approved by the Vegan society, switch to dark chocolate instead of the sugar-filled sweet stuff, experiment with vegan recipes (hundreds of which are on-line) and have fun doing so. Going vegan isn’t scary or hard, but it is inconvenient. Learning to live without dairy, however, is going to be a lot less inconvenient than learning to live without our planet’s natural resources. If you need any more persuading, I make the most delicious vegan cookies. Drop me a line, and I’ll be sure to hook you up.
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2000 Light Years from Home, physician Neal Fox’s second exhibition, prostate opened at Gallery Daniel Blau in Munich this weekend.

A founder member of the infamous Le Gun collective and a character on the debaucherously creative Soho scene, Neal Fox’s reputation just grows and grows. His pen and ink drawings light up the pages of the Guardian and Dazed and Confused, whilst the Le Gun group shows are always packed to bursting on opening nights, providing the London art world with a much needed buzz of youthful excitement. Each picture features Neal’s grandfather Jonny Watson, by whom he was taken on drinking binges with the hedonist iconoclasts of our age. In this latest show he is taken on a doomsday rock and roll trip and psychedelic journey down the Nile.

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Fox has always drawn ( at school he made pocket money by drawing footballers for his fellow pupils) and became inspired by a discovery he made at his father’s friend Les Coleman’s house.
“…he has a massive collection of underground comics by people like Robert Crumb called things like ‘Amputee Love’. So, I was about eight and I would root through these alternative and psychedelic comics and I got really obsessed with Robert Crumb, I spent my teenage years locked up trying to draw like Robert Crumb.”

These years of drawing clearly paid off as Neal went on to study at Camberwell College and then to complete his masters at the RCA where he met Robert Greene, Chris Bianchi and the other founder members of Le Gun magazine.

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With the growing reputation of the Le Gun collective and the progression of Fox’s other work the whole thing is becoming very exciting and he has now exhibited in Soho’s French House, Gallery Daniel Blau in Munich and Loft 19 in Paris.

This latest exhibition shows great development in the work; the gin-soaked nights of his grandfather in Soho have become psychedelic journeys of the mind as we follow Joseph Conrad down the Nile on a Kenneth Anger inspired acid trip. This drawing is an astonishing 10 meters long. Fox’s work seems to grow in size with each exhibition as the content becomes more and more fantastical.

“Since I got into doing the big pictures, they’ve become much more layered…I think it makes your ideas bigger and makes you feel freer. Coming out of being an illustrator where you are tied to working in a certain size at your desk, I thought why not just make it bigger?”
While he was working on this gargantuan work he hung the drawing on an ‘elaborate contraption’ so he could roll it back and forth as the picture came to life.

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“It starts with the Heart of Darkness, it’s meant to be a mixture of the context of the novel, the pictures evoked by the books but rather than just illustrating the book I wanted to put in the context the books came from and how they bled into culture at the time it was published. “
This layering of influences and ideas is key to these amazing pictures. Drawing from many aspects of culture, from Kenneth Anger to colonial politics, Neal Fox sums up the multi-faceted representation of culture in the world we live in.

All theory aside, these are some pretty amazing adventures in pen and ink: not only will they test your imagination, they’ll tickle your fancy.

Leaving the last words to the artist: “I think the drawings have got a lot more context and my mind has opened up a lot more, the pictures in the last exhibition were more about depicting certain scenes, I’m opening up more to what just comes into my head as I work.”
I first noticed Georgia Hardinge’s exquisite autumn/winter collection for the designer’s transcription of fossil’s architecture into the folds of the collection. An idea embellished by the neutral colour palette of both the make up and the clothes themselves. This season sees Georgia Hardinge premiere her S/S 2010 collection at On|Off’s exhibition space at 180 The Strand. This event staged by On|Off is a separate event which coincides with the official London Fashion Week, tadalafil offering young designers the opportunity to show their collections while the fashion industry is in town.

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After graduating from Parsons Paris School of Design Georgia collaborated with Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and was awarded the golden thimble for best designer at her graduation show. I particularly like the draping and pleating of the fabric to embellish the body’s architecture whilst remaining incredibly feminine pieces of design. The S/S 2010 designs continues themes present in earlier collections from the positioning as clothes as architecture for the body encased within sculptural designs based on landscapes and fossils. I look forward to seeing the entire collection at the On|Off exhibition.

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Georgia, check what inspired you to study fashion design?

Fashion is my way of translating my thoughts into living entities. I am inspired more by ideas of sculpture, science, and architecture than I am by the fashion industry I think clothing should be unique and trend-less.

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When did you creative interests start to develop?

Creating things always interested me, and I remember remaking my friends‚ clothes for fun, and collecting bits and pieces to turn into accessories. We would all go into our mother’s wardrobes and dress up in their clothes.

How important is the natural shape of the body to your designs?

Everyone has areas around their body that they are sensitive about. Manipulating the fabric to draw attention elsewhere makes people more confidant, if I can make people see beauty in what they thought were their faults then I’m happy.

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Which designers would you consider to be important currently?

I don’t consider any one designer to be more important than any other. Our work shows our opinions and everybody has an opinion that matters. It’s about what you like and what feels right at a specific moment.

What is your favourite fabric to work with?

I have this obsession with wool! I can always rely on it to structure my work the way I want, and I love playing with the raw edges of the fabric.

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How do you incorporate structure into your designs?

Architecture is my ultimate inspiration, if I wasn’t in fashion I would dedicate my time to making models of landscapes and buildings, I’m intrigued by doing this on a living body and challenging myself to turn my ideas into garments. On the body my work can travel, people are introduced to my concepts in the street without having to go to a gallery or museum.

So landscape is important to your SS10 collection?

I wanted each piece to map the lines and curves of a woman’s body. I was just experimenting with the idea of boundaries and contours on the body and trying to recreate this as something we can use everyday.

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How does it feel to be part of On|Off at London Fashion Week?

I’m quite excited. This is only my first collection working within my company so I’m just lucky to have this kind of opportunity.

What are your plans for the future?

I have a lot in store for the future. I think all designers have an idea of where they want to be in ten years time. I just hope people stay enthusiastic about my clothes and I keep challenging myself and coming up with fresh ideas.

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Categories ,Architecture, ,exhibition, ,Fashion Design, ,Fossils, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,London Fashion Week, ,MA, ,Off Schedule, ,On|Off, ,Parsons School of Design

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Amelia’s Magazine | Georgia Hardinge collection at the On|Off exhibition

999 it’s time, sildenafil erectile is another green focused campaign. As the website notes “We are in a state of emergency – socially, store economically and ecologically. What do we do in an emergency? In the UK, viagra 100mg we dial 999…” Well that all sounds pretty heartening until you realise that the 999 campaigns reaction to this emergency hasn’t exactly been particularly speedy so far. I can’t help feeling that the climate emergency we are facing means groups should be advocating some real direct action rather than just planting a tree or joining the 10:10 movement. However the campaign has some great initiatives to get the ball rolling and hopefully get more people thinking about the global crisis.

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All illustrations by Suzy Phillips

Of course the campaign does have some credibility, it encourages people to get more environmentally friendly, and behind the celebrity endorsements 999 has some forward thinking ideas about how communities in particular can work together to create a more sustainable world. Transforming rural and urban spaces into shared land to grow food has been one of the most successful elements. Capital Growth is the place to start with a great run through of the process and steps and how to get involved. Land sharing empowers people by growing their own food and creating stronger links in communities as well as reducing the reliance on supermarkets. A definite step in the right direction.

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I caught up with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, the rural country celebrity chef, to talk about his part in the 999 campaign.

Can you outline what 999′s main priority is about and why you’re here today?

999 is about driving home the issue of climate change and what we ourselves can do to combat the emergency situation we have found ourselves in. I’ve come today because our aim ties in with the Climate Rush campaign, and its a great way to get talking with the local community, and of course it’s the 9th of the 9th 09.

How is the 999 campaign coming along? It doesn’t seemed to have gained as much prominence in the press such as campaigns like the recent 10:10?

It’s an on-going process, im specifically been looking at the food aspect, and as the ambassador I’m really interested in what small scale communities can do to combat the threat of climate change.

Can you please give some examples of the message your trying to get across in relation to the food aspect of the campaign?

With my books and TV series I’ve been highlighting the importance of locally grown produce and recently I’ve been pushing the idea of land sharing. The idea is to find land, whether in urban or rural spaces where people can grow their own food, there is so much land wasted around the UK that can be used. With over a thousand people on waiting lists for allotments especially in the south, it is vital we utilize all the land we can instead of relying on foreign markets for our vegetables. Food is a great way to create a cohesive community and bring people together.

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How is the land sharing campaign going, have you had much success?

We’ve had over a thousand land plots given to us and up to 30,000 people signing up to the website, so it’s defiantly getting people interested. The campaign is also working with groups like the Church of England and a range of British NGOs. The National Trust for example has just given us 1000 plots of land, so although it’s quite a slow process, there’s been a real positive reaction across the country.

With your interest in climate change, have the facts about the meat industry’s huge carbon footprint persuaded you to become vegetarian yet?

No, not yet, I’m aware of the issues, and I keep by own pigs and livestock, and always advocate buying locally soured meat to keep the carbon footprint low.

So let’s hope this campaign can help to stop this emergency from escalating, with 1 day, 11 hours, 9 minutes since 999 Day, the pressure is on.
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Designers in Residence @ the Design Museum
September 18 – October 31

The Design Museum’s annual exhibition of young designers begins on September 18 with site-specific works from Marc Owens and Dave Bowker. Owens is inspired by virtual realities – his work Avatar Machine replicates video gaming via a headset (above), order designed to make the wearer see themselves as a virtual character in the real world. Bowker works in data visualisation and will be re-examining the way visitors move about the Museum.

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Open House weekend

Once a year thousands of London’s most interesting and historic buildings are opened to the public, sale some of which are locked up tight for the rest of the year. Although some of the most popular buildings in the centre of London have already been completely booked, drugs there are still plenty of places worth visiting.

If you haven’t got your eye on anything in your local area, consider visiting the house of Dr Samuel Johnson, of “the dictionary” fame. It’s free to visit on Friday (there will be free cake on this day) and Saturday, in honour of the great man’s birthday.

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Radical Nature

This exhibition of works revolving around nature and inspired by environmentalism features pieces from architect Richard Buckminster Fuller and artists such as Joseph Beuys and Hans Haacke, as well as newer names such as Heath and Ivan Morrison and Simon Starling. Impactful and timely, there are lots of strong visual statements such as the Fallen Forest by Henrik Håkansson (above) and a visual record of the fields of wheat planted as an act of protest on a landfill site in Manhattan.

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Thames Festival

Sunday

One of the few fireworks displays allowed along the Thames will occur on Sunday when the Thames Festival fireworks are set off in all their glory, fired from barges between Blackfriars and Waterloo Bridge so everyone can get a perfect view. There are also events all day, including fire-eaters, an outdoor ballroom (starting to become the South Bank’s speciality) and the annual Night Carnival, where 2,000 costumed revellers bearing lanterns and luminous costumes will welcome the pyrotechnics.
Another load of talks, healing workshops and activities to get stuck into, information pills don’t forget Co-Mutiny is still on all this week in Bristol, Climate Rush are still on tour, and also make sure you get down to protest against the closure of the Vestas Wind Turbine factory this Thursday. Good luck with fitting it all in, I’m certainly going to struggle!

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Illustrations by Emma Hanquist

Cambridge Climate Conference
Monday 14 Sep 2009 to Tuesday 15 Sep 2009 ?

An exciting event has been organised with international speakers and delegates involved in policy-making, business, and academia. Understanding the role of climate change policy is central to a business’s future success. Topics will include the political, economical, technological, and legal challenges and solutions for decarbonising electricity.
To register for a discounted ticket visit the website and enter ‘ge2009′ as the discount code.

Time: 9am-5pm
Venue: Churchill College, Cambridge, UK
Website: www.cambridgeclimate.com/

A Global New Deal needs a Green New Protectionism
Wednesday 16 Sep 2009 ?

An evening to learn and discuss the ‘triple crunch’ that we face: climate change, energy insecurity, and financial and economic meltdown. Colin Hines, Author and convener of the Green New Deal Group will be leading the talks. Colin has worked in the environmental movement for over 30 years including 10 years at Greenpeace. His recent work focuses on the adverse environmental and social effects of international trade and the need to solve these problems by replacing globalisation with localisation. During the evening there will also be a tribute to ‘Teddy’ Goldsmith, founder of The Ecologist magazine.

Time: 6.30pm drinks and food, 7.30pm talk begins at Burgh House
Venue: Gaia House, 18 Well Walk, Hampstead
Contacts: To book email, book online or call 0207 428 0054.
Website: www.gaiafoundation.org

Protest against the closure of Vestas Wind Turbine Factory
Thursday 17 Sep 2009 ?

As well as the continuing protest against the closure of the Vestas Wind Turbine factory at the Isle of Wight, there will also be a chance for people to make their feelings known across the country. People are meeting at the Department of Energy and Climate Change in London to lobby against the government. There will also be speakers including John Mcdonnel, MP (Labour, Hayes and Harlington) and Tracy Edwards (Young Members Organiser for the Public and Commercial Services Union).
Couldn’t put it better than Phil Thornhill from the Campaign against Climate Change “Just when we need a huge expansion in renewable energy they are closing down the only significant wind turbine factory in the UK. The government has spent billions bailing out the banks, and £2.3 billion in loan guarantees to support the UK car industry – they can and should step in to save the infrastructure we are really going to need prevent a climate catastrophe.
Whilst the impact on employment on the Isle of Wight will be quite devastating, this is an issue not just about jobs or one factory but about whether the government is really going to match up its actions to its rhetoric on green jobs and the rapid decarbonisation of the British economy – whether its prepared to act with the kind of resolution and energy we need to cope with the Climate Emergency”.

Time: 5.30 to 6.30pm
Venue: Outside the Department of Energy and Climate Change, 3 Whitehall Place.
?Website: www.campaigncc.org

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Out of the Ordinary Festival
Friday 18 Sep 2009 to Sunday 20 Sep 2009
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OOTO is a 3 day family friendly and eco friendly festival set in the beautiful Sussex countryside celebrating the Autumn Equinox. Featuring a variety of live music powered by solar panels and wind generators, fascinating talks and workshops, children’s activities, awesome performances, a green market place and many more out of the ordinary surprises. The festival is also offering Big Green Gathering ticket holders a discount for the event held over the weekend
Venue: Knockhatch Farm, Hailsham, East Sussex
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Website: www.outoftheordinaryfestival.com

Tree-Athlon
Saturday 19th September

Get fit and get your very own tree sapling to take home! Participants run a 5km race to raise money for Trees for Cities, an independent environmental charity working with local communities on tree planting projects. There is also music, entertainment, lots of tree-themed activities, whatever that may consist of, and plenty of other workshops to keep the whole family entertained.
The race is open to runners aged 14 and up and is ideal for beginners or experienced runners alike. Register now, to make sure you can raise as much sponsorship as possible before the day, and look forward to a grand day out.

Time: 9am-3pm
Venue: Battersea Park
Website: www.tree-athlon.org

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The Urban Green Fair ?
Sunday 20th September

?The Urban Green Fair is held in Brockwell Park in London this Sunday, Its a free event and with plenty to do and see, the fair is also powered by solar and wind energy.
The annual family event, has a range of films, talks, workshops, kids activities, stalls, sunshine as well as some unusual bicycles. Unfortunatly no bars or big stages but this keeps the emphasis on education and communication. A chance to share ideas, meet familiar faces and make new friends. With little government action on peak oil and climate change there is plenty to discuss and lots we can do as individuals. ?

Time:11am-7pm
?Venue: Brockwell Park, Lambeth
Website: http://www.urbangreenfair.org/

Leytonstone Car Free Day
Sunday 20th September

Leytonstone Town Centre will car free day this Sunday. As well as having no vehicles hurtling around there will also be entertainment, stalls, live music, dancing, public art and childrens’ play areas. Simon Webbe from Blue and Aswad will be headlining! Get yourself down, and make sure you leave the car(if you’ve got one) at home.
Time: 1pm-7pm
Venue: Outside Leyonstone tube station
Website: www.walthamforest.gov.uk

Co-mutiny
Saturday 12th of September until Monday 21st September

A coming together of activists, eco-warriors gardeners, artists, community/political groups, cooks, builders etc. to demonstrate our creative power to build a city/world we would like to see. Co-Mutineers have taken an old cathedral (of the holy apostles) near the Triangle in the Clifton/Hotwells area, it’s a space to converge, eat, sleep meet and discuss, plan and skill-share!
There will be over a week of different activities, direct actions, workshops, film screenings, public demonstrations and parties. It’s happening all across Bristol and the wider South West.

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During the week there will be actions happening all across the city, which will climax in a fancy dress carnival through the financial district of Bristol on the Friday.
Venue: Bristol Pro Cathedral, Park Place, BS8 1JW
Website: http://comutiny.wordpress.com/
Monday 14th September
William Elliott Whitmore
The Garage, order London

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We can’t get enough of this distilled, medications gravelly bluesman. With Whitmore, it’s almost like you’re listening from inside a huge bottle of JD.

Tuesday 15th September
We Have Band
ICA, London

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This trio spin the grooves of Talking Heads via a stop off and natter with Hot Chip, it’ll make you jive and smile.

Wednesday 16th September
Beth Jeans Houghton
Rough Trade East, London

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Having supported folk heavy weights, Tunng, Bon Iver, and King Creosote, this ballsy 19 year old manages to blend the vocal lustre of Nico and Laura Marling whilst having an edgy stage presence more like Gwen Stefani. Beguiling.

Thursday 17th September
Alela and Laura Gibson
Shepherds Bush Empire, London

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We chatted to Alela recently and she was as lovely as her music. Gibson toes a similar line of enchanting bluesy folk airs.

Friday 18th September
Metronomy, Male Bonding, Your Twenties and Drums Of Death
The Forum, London

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We’re particularly keen on the immaculate indie-pop of Your Twenties after meeting the lovely ex-Metronomy frontman. Nice to see they’re still close.

Saturday 19th September
Tom Paley and Birdengine
The Deptford Arms, London

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A traditional folk night in a scuzzy South-East London boozer. You want more reason that that? Well living legend, Tom Paley who played with Woodie Guthrie back in the day and enchantingly odd, Birdengine are two big ones.

Sunday 20th September
Viv Albertine and Get Back Guinozzi!
The Windmill, London

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The Slits guitarist has picked up a guitar again after a 25 year sabbatical and come up trumps with punk rock outfit, Albertine.


Monday 14th


Rankin at The Truman Brewery

It’s the last chance to see Rankin’s retrospective in Brick Lane this week. The exhibition moves through Rankin at university exploring the well worn art student quest to find a sense of self to portraying the plight of the Congo. After this introduction the exhibition opens onto his best know fashion, website erotic and beauty editorials. Featuring Kate, Hedi, Tilda Swinton and the Dame of British Fashion, Vivienne Westwood to name a few. Rankin’s strongest work comes through in the portraits where he has assumed a sense of a relationship with the sitter, tweaking out their quirks through the movement of an eyebrow, eye or twitch of the lips or neck. Throughout the exhibition Rankin moved his studio into the space to continue photographing the public portraits. A portion of everyone’s fee goes to support Oxfam’s to work in the Congo.
Until the 18th September.

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Tuesday

START KNITTING with prick your finger!

Recent years have seen a rise in designers revisiting craft techniques, with knitting proving to be especially popular with a range of creatives from Louise Goldin to Mark Fast. Last week Amelia’s Magazine participated in a Prick Your Finger discussion on the use and sourcing of local ethical wool and the continuing rise in the popularity of knitting.Join on a Tuesday 7-9 for beginners classes with all your knitting woes and joys.

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Thursday

Fashion Diversity at The Museum of London

The Museum of London is staging a three day fashion diversity event during London Fashion Week. On Thursday the museum hosts a range of workshops from a discussion of the development of sustainable fashion by CHOOLIPS, to a Moving Passion to Profit workshop in association with the MOORDESIGN salon finishing with the importance of branding. Colour Production, addressing how companies interact with their audience visually. Finally 7-16 year olds are giving the opportunity to unlock their creativity in a fashion drawing workshop teaching concentration, communication and dexterity.

Friday and Saturday host the fashion diversity catwalks: Emerging, Established and Honorary designers at 1pm or 3pm Friday and 1pm on Saturday, places are free. Honorary designers Junky Styling and Nico Didonna also present pieces for the runway.

To conclude Saturday’s event, at 3pm student and graduate designers from schools and colleges across London showcase designs inspired by 18th century pleasure gardens and related costumes from from the Museum of London’s archives.

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SHOWstudio : Fashion Revolution

Unable to go to Fashion Week? Fear not! As mentioned last week, the Fashion Revolution exhibition opens at Somerset House. The exhibition curated by Showstudio celebrates nine years of Showstudio.com. The website established by Nick Knight has pushed and developed the idea of communicating fashion ‘live’ through films, online live interviews and streamed performances involving photographers, models, stylists graphic designers and cultural figures to create ethereal fashion portraiture and communication through body and style. New fashion films have been commissioned to accompany the exhibition, alongside a live photographic studio that gives the viewer the opportunity to see the whimsical world of fashion in play.

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Saturday 19th


GIANT VINTAGE SALE

This just dropped into the inbox – The East End thrift store are inviting all budding clothing DIY’ers to come down to the store and fill a bag with all that you can for ten or twenty pounds. Open Saturday to Sunday from 10-7pm.

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The National Portrait Gallery

The National Portrait Gallery celebrates the icon of 60′s British Fashion photography, Twiggy. Dedicating a room to the most iconic images created with her image by a range of photographers from Richard Avedon to Solve Sundsbo. The exhibition coincides with a publication of a new book: Twiggy : A life in photography. This exhibition is a must for anyone interested in the relationship between sitter and photography in fashion portraiture.

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Roll up Roll up and take part in Covent Garden’s fashion fete

Pull the fashion rope, roll around in dressing up boxes courtesy of Costume Boutique. Jump up and Down for the tombola, be styled by Super Super Magazine, scouted by models 1 or preview some of the hottest new design talent with the Fashion and Textiles museum.
Moreover TRAID are holding a stitching workshop on how to transform old clothes into new designs as demonstrated by their remade range.

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The London Vegan Festival this year took place in Kensington Town Hall, ask and was absolutely heaving. Usually, store the odds of bumping into another vegan are slightly higher than those of two Esperanto speakers meeting, so hanging out in a hall packed full of them was a new experience – as was not having to ask ‘Is there dairy in this?’ at every food stall. Bliss.

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Almost as soon as someone mentions becoming vegan, people start to get a panicked look on their faces and tend to begin listing reasons why they couldn’t possibly give up cheese. The general consensus is that a vegan diet is deprived and difficult. Just a quick glance over these photos ought to give anyone with that mindset pause for thought.
Never-mind having never been in a room with so many vegans before, I’d never been in a room filled with so much vegan cake! I ate my way around the festival, starting with a deliciously gooey chocolate brownie, discovered vegan crème eggs half-way round, swung by the Conscious Chocolate stall for my free samples and a bar of Choca Mocha Magic, then hung out with Redwoods comparing the Lincolnshire sausages to the hot dogs. (Hawt dawgs won, hands done.) Veggies provided me with some real food, in the form of a massive Cheezley burger, giving me the energy I needed to head to some of the talks.

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Being vegan isn’t all about the food (though, let’s be honest. It is mostly about the food) and there was a wealth of information at the Festival ranging from talks on vegan nutrition (okay, food again), taking action against animal testing and extreme vegan sports (like regular extreme sports, but partaken of by vegans. Not like preparing scrambled tofu at 30,000 feet. Though, that would be something I would pay to see) to stalls run by the Secret Society of Vegans, animal rights groups and Active Distribution – a bookstall filled with vegan recipe books and anarchist ‘zines. There was information relevant to every level of vegan interest; aspiring, political, dietary…
There was plenty of entertainment too, in the form of magicians, musicians and comedians. (Never let it be said that vegans are without a sense of humour.) I saw Andrew O’Neill, a vegan comedian, who has recently come off the Fringe and was hilarious. Wibbling between whimsical and cruel, from the ‘scat-nav’ to “Kill a Fascist for Grandad” in replacement of the current “Hope not Hate” campaign, he had me laughing from start to finish.

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So, why vegan? We already have McCartney pushing for Meat-Free Mondays, do we really need Dairy-Free Days of the Week as well? I’m on the ‘Yes’ side for that one. Going vegan reduces support for the livestock industry down to zero, on a personal level. (Y’know the livestock industry I’m talking about. The one helping out with Climate Change by about 18%.) If you’re serious about wanting to reduce your environmental impact on the Earth and already cycle everywhere, reuse and recycle, turn your taps off when brushing your teeth, then this is the next step in armchair activism. You don’t need to head up to London to protest, or write letters to your MP. Just start buying dairy-free marge approved by the Vegan society, switch to dark chocolate instead of the sugar-filled sweet stuff, experiment with vegan recipes (hundreds of which are on-line) and have fun doing so. Going vegan isn’t scary or hard, but it is inconvenient. Learning to live without dairy, however, is going to be a lot less inconvenient than learning to live without our planet’s natural resources. If you need any more persuading, I make the most delicious vegan cookies. Drop me a line, and I’ll be sure to hook you up.
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2000 Light Years from Home, physician Neal Fox’s second exhibition, prostate opened at Gallery Daniel Blau in Munich this weekend.

A founder member of the infamous Le Gun collective and a character on the debaucherously creative Soho scene, Neal Fox’s reputation just grows and grows. His pen and ink drawings light up the pages of the Guardian and Dazed and Confused, whilst the Le Gun group shows are always packed to bursting on opening nights, providing the London art world with a much needed buzz of youthful excitement. Each picture features Neal’s grandfather Jonny Watson, by whom he was taken on drinking binges with the hedonist iconoclasts of our age. In this latest show he is taken on a doomsday rock and roll trip and psychedelic journey down the Nile.

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Fox has always drawn ( at school he made pocket money by drawing footballers for his fellow pupils) and became inspired by a discovery he made at his father’s friend Les Coleman’s house.
“…he has a massive collection of underground comics by people like Robert Crumb called things like ‘Amputee Love’. So, I was about eight and I would root through these alternative and psychedelic comics and I got really obsessed with Robert Crumb, I spent my teenage years locked up trying to draw like Robert Crumb.”

These years of drawing clearly paid off as Neal went on to study at Camberwell College and then to complete his masters at the RCA where he met Robert Greene, Chris Bianchi and the other founder members of Le Gun magazine.

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With the growing reputation of the Le Gun collective and the progression of Fox’s other work the whole thing is becoming very exciting and he has now exhibited in Soho’s French House, Gallery Daniel Blau in Munich and Loft 19 in Paris.

This latest exhibition shows great development in the work; the gin-soaked nights of his grandfather in Soho have become psychedelic journeys of the mind as we follow Joseph Conrad down the Nile on a Kenneth Anger inspired acid trip. This drawing is an astonishing 10 meters long. Fox’s work seems to grow in size with each exhibition as the content becomes more and more fantastical.

“Since I got into doing the big pictures, they’ve become much more layered…I think it makes your ideas bigger and makes you feel freer. Coming out of being an illustrator where you are tied to working in a certain size at your desk, I thought why not just make it bigger?”
While he was working on this gargantuan work he hung the drawing on an ‘elaborate contraption’ so he could roll it back and forth as the picture came to life.

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“It starts with the Heart of Darkness, it’s meant to be a mixture of the context of the novel, the pictures evoked by the books but rather than just illustrating the book I wanted to put in the context the books came from and how they bled into culture at the time it was published. “
This layering of influences and ideas is key to these amazing pictures. Drawing from many aspects of culture, from Kenneth Anger to colonial politics, Neal Fox sums up the multi-faceted representation of culture in the world we live in.

All theory aside, these are some pretty amazing adventures in pen and ink: not only will they test your imagination, they’ll tickle your fancy.

Leaving the last words to the artist: “I think the drawings have got a lot more context and my mind has opened up a lot more, the pictures in the last exhibition were more about depicting certain scenes, I’m opening up more to what just comes into my head as I work.”
I first noticed Georgia Hardinge’s exquisite autumn/winter collection for the designer’s transcription of fossil’s architecture into the folds of the collection. An idea embellished by the neutral colour palette of both the make up and the clothes themselves. This season sees Georgia Hardinge premiere her S/S 2010 collection at On|Off’s exhibition space at 180 The Strand. This event staged by On|Off is a separate event which coincides with the official London Fashion Week, tadalafil offering young designers the opportunity to show their collections while the fashion industry is in town.

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After graduating from Parsons Paris School of Design Georgia collaborated with Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and was awarded the golden thimble for best designer at her graduation show. I particularly like the draping and pleating of the fabric to embellish the body’s architecture whilst remaining incredibly feminine pieces of design. The S/S 2010 designs continues themes present in earlier collections from the positioning as clothes as architecture for the body encased within sculptural designs based on landscapes and fossils. I look forward to seeing the entire collection at the On|Off exhibition.

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Georgia, check what inspired you to study fashion design?

Fashion is my way of translating my thoughts into living entities. I am inspired more by ideas of sculpture, science, and architecture than I am by the fashion industry I think clothing should be unique and trend-less.

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When did you creative interests start to develop?

Creating things always interested me, and I remember remaking my friends‚ clothes for fun, and collecting bits and pieces to turn into accessories. We would all go into our mother’s wardrobes and dress up in their clothes.

How important is the natural shape of the body to your designs?

Everyone has areas around their body that they are sensitive about. Manipulating the fabric to draw attention elsewhere makes people more confidant, if I can make people see beauty in what they thought were their faults then I’m happy.

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Which designers would you consider to be important currently?

I don’t consider any one designer to be more important than any other. Our work shows our opinions and everybody has an opinion that matters. It’s about what you like and what feels right at a specific moment.

What is your favourite fabric to work with?

I have this obsession with wool! I can always rely on it to structure my work the way I want, and I love playing with the raw edges of the fabric.

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How do you incorporate structure into your designs?

Architecture is my ultimate inspiration, if I wasn’t in fashion I would dedicate my time to making models of landscapes and buildings, I’m intrigued by doing this on a living body and challenging myself to turn my ideas into garments. On the body my work can travel, people are introduced to my concepts in the street without having to go to a gallery or museum.

So landscape is important to your SS10 collection?

I wanted each piece to map the lines and curves of a woman’s body. I was just experimenting with the idea of boundaries and contours on the body and trying to recreate this as something we can use everyday.

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How does it feel to be part of On|Off at London Fashion Week?

I’m quite excited. This is only my first collection working within my company so I’m just lucky to have this kind of opportunity.

What are your plans for the future?

I have a lot in store for the future. I think all designers have an idea of where they want to be in ten years time. I just hope people stay enthusiastic about my clothes and I keep challenging myself and coming up with fresh ideas.

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Categories ,Architecture, ,exhibition, ,Fashion Design, ,Fossils, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,London Fashion Week, ,MA, ,Off Schedule, ,On|Off, ,Parsons School of Design

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Amelia’s Magazine | Georgia Hardinge: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Rebecca Strickson
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Rebecca Strickson.

Former Merit Award winner Georgia Hardinge returned to the catwalks once more this season, a now familiar and much anticipated designer on the Fashion Scout catwalk. Inverted was inspired by the work of the iconic inside out artist Rachel Whiteread and confirmed the Centre for Fashion Enterprise mentored designer’s very individual talent.

Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Using magnified and manipulated images taken from Whiteread‘s infamous resin casts Georgia‘s signature prints showcased her typically abstract geometric aesthetic, this time in shades of tigerish orange and blacks, or cream and deep burgundy.

Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Ellen Li
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Ellen Li.

The show opened with a jaunty trouser, blouse and hat combo: navy panels creating a sleek silhouette that was echoed in a standout mustard yellow jacket with squared pocket panels and hidden buttons. This was worn with a pair of oatmeal knitted shorts – part of Georgia Hardinge‘s first foray into knitwear. Other garments included a long loose cardigan and a cropped cowl neck jumper, both with obvious commercial appeal. These were paired with her bold prints, cleverly marrying the saleable with the showpiece to create a highly desirable style.

Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Janneke de Jong
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Janneke de Jong.

A series of incredibly slender maxi dresses would be suitable for only the skinniest of ladies, but I adored the subtle A-line detailing and layering of sheer fabrics and Melton wool. The show culminated in Georgia‘s finest showpiece, a swooping burgundy and cream patterned dress topped with a layered and squared buttress: the perfect epitome of lady-like power.

Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Victoria Haynes
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Victoria Haynes.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Burgundy, ,Centre for Fashion Enterprise, ,Ellen Li, ,Fashion Scout, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,Inverted, ,Janneke de Jong, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Melton Wool, ,Merit Award, ,Rachel Whiteread, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Sheer, ,Victoria Haynes

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