Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland

Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: lovers of Raggedy Grunge

Agnieszka Kowalska by Victoria Haynes.

I have learnt that grungey raggedy looks are a great favourite of Polish fashion designers. And so is grey. How they love their greys! No surprise then that this round up includes both of The Golden Thread winners.

Sabina Koryl
Sabina Koryl Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Sabina Koryl showed a 90s influenced grunge collection of deconstructed leather and rubberised garments in dark shades, more about accessorised with dangling reflectors and round sunglasses.

Dominka Naziebly
Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Dominka Naziebly was all about the distressed denim, mangled knitwear dangling in swishing loops and my favourite piece: a fun squished fabric layered red dress that called to mind the work of Georgia Hardinge. I think the garments might have been made from recycled fabrics, for which she gets massive brownie points.

Gareth A Hopkins Monika Jaworska Golden Thread
Monika Jaworska by Gareth A Hopkins.

Monika Jaworska
Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Monika Jaworska showed a military meets peasant collection with lots of highly wearable frayed louche shapes in beiges and neutrals; a clear commercial favourite that would easily translate into production. She won the Pret a Porter Golden Thread category.

Agnieszka Kowalska
Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Winner
Agnieszka Kowalska presented one of my favourite Golden Thread collections: flamboyant tea stained flounces layered in tattered circus style sent down the catwalk to a soundtrack of traditional hornpipes. Tights and socks were holey and muddy, exposing bony knees, and in the case of one particular man, way too much.

Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Winner
It was all going so incredibly well until he stepped out on the catwalk. No no no, man with chunky thighs in tights not good. Not for Fall/Winter, not ever. Despite this glaring faux pas Agnieszka Kowalska was a worthy winner of the Premiere Vision category.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday May 13th, 2011 5:20 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Agnieszka Kowalska, ,Dominka Naziebly, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,grunge, ,Lodz, ,Modus Vivendi, ,Monika Jaworska, ,poland, ,Premiere Vision, ,Pret-a-porter, ,Raggedy Grunge, ,recycled, ,Sabina Koryl, ,Szałapot, ,The Golden Thread, ,Victoria Haynes, ,Winner

Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: Black, Grey, Red and White

Damian Konieczny Fashion Week Poland 2011 by Fi Blog.

Black, information pills white, grey and red predominated everywhere at Fashion Week Poland. Here’s who took up the theme at The Golden Thread Awards.

Magdalena Herwich Golden Thread Poland Fashion Week AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou
Magdalena Herwich A/W 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou.

Magdalena Herwich
Magdalena Herwich Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Magdalena Herwich‘s collection was entirely black and red… featuring tassels, pompoms and inexplicably, gun holsters. Why?! The curled and cascading head pieces were without a doubt my favourite bit.

Monika Blazusiak
Monika Blazusiak Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Monika Blazusiak put together a very black leathery collection, accessorised with over sized bags. There were some interesting architectural shapes going on, and I particularly liked the tumbling layers of an oversized woollen coat top.

Damian Konieczny
Damian Konieczny Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Damian Konieczny featured black catsuits covered in what I initially thought were swishing tassels, but turned out to be bouncy metal threads. Some pieces undoubtedly worked better than others, with spiked trousers imitating the legs of a great hairy beast… but at least the collection was fun. And also popular with the crowd, who whooped and cheered.

Kinga Dubiel 2011 by Antonia Parker
Kinga Dubiel by Antonia Parker.

Kinga Dubiel
Kinga Dubiel Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Kinga Dubiel sent out garments that constrained the arms, befitting to the circus cabaret theme. Poorly cut asymmetric tailoring in monochrome did not really do it for me but the cascading arms on a dress (very similar to Monika Blazusiak’s coat) made for an effective silhouette.

Anya Kamarek
Anya Kamarek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Anya Kamarek sent her models out in pairs wearing asymmetric white outfits, combined with pewter tones and outsized fluffy sleeves. The best piece was a sleeveless square backed shirt with curious shoulder flaps.

Nina Krowlikowska
Nina Krowlikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Nina Krowlikowska concentrated on menswear. Lots of layered black fabric and cowled heads were set to a slow and moody electro beat, a favourite for catwalk soundtracks in Poland…

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 16th, 2011 7:12 pm

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Anya Kamarek, ,Damian Konieczny, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fi Blog, ,Kinga Dubiel, ,Lodz, ,Magdalena Herwich, ,Michalis Christodoulou, ,Monika Blazusiak, ,Nina Krowlikowska, ,poland, ,The Golden Thread

Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: Colourful Patterns

Jo Cheung_Sofie Gauden Golden Thread AW 2011
Sofie Gauden AW 2011 by Jo Cheung.

Very few Golden Thread designers really embraced colour and pattern. But these ones did.

Natalia Paliy Golden Thread Poland Fashion Week AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou
Natalia Paliy AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou.

Natalia Paliy
Natalia Paliy Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Natalia Paliy really set her own pace with a happy tune mashup and an eager parade of smiling models in summery flower prints sent straight down to the end of the catwalk in a phalanx. The styling was bloody awful but the prints were rather lovely underneath it all… who knows if she was responsible for them herself? And was this really Fall/Winter I ask you?!

Domi Grzybek by Hannah Simpson.

Domi Grzybek
Domi Grzybek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Domi Grzybek paraded coral fitted jackets with gold sequin pants, viagra 100mg slouchy 80s influenced numbers with wide shoulders, viagra drop crotch nappy pants, plastic capes and patchwork body con dresses which had the air of Holly Fulton and Christopher Kane some seasons back. I liked the colour palette, but there was a major problem with poor tailoring: badly fitted bodycon dresses are never a good plan.

Katharina Kubiak
Katharina Kubiak Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Katharina Kubiak‘s over the top womenswear styling was a total dog’s dinner but her printed mix and match aesthetic worked well on shorts suits for men. I liked them a lot… now she just needs to concentrate on what she does best.

Sofie Gauden Golden Thread AW 2011Jo Cheung
Sofie Gauden AW 2011 by Jo Cheung.

Sofie Gaudaen
Sofie Gaudaen Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Sofie Gaudaen ended the evening with a collection of neon rave shamans: barefooted models sporting plenty of feathers and fringing. I loved the colours but it was not the strongest showing of the night to end on…

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday May 13th, 2011 6:00 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Christopher Kane, ,colour, ,Domi Grzybek, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Hannah Simpson, ,Holly Fulton, ,Jo Cheung, ,Katharina Kubiak, ,Lodz, ,Natalia Paliy, ,poland, ,Polish, ,Premiere Vision, ,Pret-a-porter, ,print, ,Shamen, ,Sofie Gaudaen, ,Sofie Gauden, ,Stock vodka, ,Szałapot, ,The Golden Thread, ,Złota Nitka

Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: The Pastel, Petrol and Beige

Paulina_Matuszelanska_Fashion_Week_Poland_Soni_Speight
Paulina Matuszelanska by Soni Speight.

These three designers showed collections in tones of pastels, information pills petrol and beige.

Gareth A Hopkins Marta Gos Golden Thread
Marta Gos by Gareth A Hopkins.

Marta Gos
Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Marta Gos had fun with holes and dangling bits. The strange armour-like silhouettes were rendered wearable in a creamy pastel and buttermilk colour palette.

Paulina Matuszelanska AW'11 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Paulina Matuszelanska by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Paulina Matuszelanska
Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Paulina Matuszelanska showed a very strong collection in lemon yellow, medical camel, mint green and powder blue. There were boxy shoulders aplenty, maxi length pleats and fluffy cropped jumpers – this catwalk show was a rare example of good styling, with slicked back high ponytails and chunky colour block necklaces completing the look. Definitely one of my favourites. Many of the clothes were stuff that I might actually want to wear, hurrah!

Alicja Antoszczyk by Alia Gargum.

Alicja Antoszczyk
Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011
Alicja Antoszczyk sent all her models out with hands slipped nonchalantly into pockets. Long rain macs and calf length skirts came in dull gold and petrol blue matt plastic fabrics. Black, powder blue and rosy red lent colour to the remaining layered pieces. A very strong and coherent collection.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 16th, 2011 9:03 pm

Categories ,80s, ,Alia Gargum, ,Alicja Antoszczyk, ,Beige, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Lodz, ,Marta Gos, ,pastels, ,Paulina Matuszelanska, ,Plastic, ,Soni Speight, ,The Golden Thread

Amelia’s Magazine | Krystof Strozyna: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Krystof Strozyna A/W 2012 by Carol Ryder.

Krystof Strozyna showed on Friday 17th February in the Fashion Scout salon. I dashed in at the last minute, giving me pole position at the end of the catwalk.

krystof strozyna AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

This was a more sombre showing than is usual from the renowned Polish designer, featuring a predominantly neutral colour palette of black, cream, sand and milk chocolate – a flash of royal blue in the form of two sexy silk dresses provided welcome relief.

krystof strozyna AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

Krystof Strozyna A/W 2012 by Jacqueline Valencia.

The collection featured asymmetric shaping that revealed large expanses of thigh, zippered blouse details combined with sheer panels, and draping aplenty. Having spent so much time at Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland over the past few seasons I now recognise all these elements to be the backbone of a typically Polish aesthetic, and unfortunately I felt that Krystof Strozyna was playing it incredibly safe. The demands of commerciality could well be exerting a strong hold over the designer these days: come back, experimental Krystof of yore.

krystof strozyna AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday February 22nd, 2012 5:26 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Carol Ryder, ,catwalk, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Scout, ,Jacqueline Valencia, ,Krystof Strozyna, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Salon

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Lucja Wojtala

Lucja Wojtala S/S 2012 by Kareena Zerefos
Lucja Wojtala S/S 2012 by Kareena Zerefos.

I really liked Lucja Wojtala‘s new collection, which featured intricate jacquard knits in a variety of wonderful designs inspired by the traditional aesthetics of South America, Turkey, India and Africa. She calls this look ‘global primary folk with a modern twist.’ Bandeau mini dresses came with a flouncy black peplum at the waist and longer dresses came with panels of different textured knit, either wrapped and tied or dangling to create different length interest. Panelled cardigans were worn over brilliant geometric designed leggings and hair was worn with side plait details. Mixing pastel shades of lemon yellow, mushroom and peach with greys, royal blue and black, this was a bold and wearable collection accessorised with brilliant matching brocade heels.

Lucja Wojtala Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Lucja Wojtala comes from a family of knitwear specialists stretching back three generations and has trained as an intern in John Galliano‘s atelier. All her yarn is sourced from Italy and the garments are produced in the family workshops and knitting mill.

Lucja Wojtala S/S 2012 by Shauna Tranter.

Lucja Wojtala Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Lucja Wojtala S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Watch the final run through here.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday November 12th, 2011 5:27 pm

Categories ,africa, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,India, ,Italian yarns, ,Jacquard, ,John Galliano, ,Kareena Zerefos, ,knitwear, ,Lodz, ,Lucja Wojtala, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Shauna Tranter, ,South America, ,Turkey

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Lukasz Jemiol

Lukasz Jemiol S/S 2012 by Joe Cruz.

There was another packed show for Lukasz Jemiol, who looked to native american and cowboy influences for his S/S 2012 collection. This meant plenty of burnt orange and turquoise bursts of colour with chaps detailing in side panelled maxi skirts and swinging strands of leather fringing. In typical Polish fashion there were also plenty of draped shapes and the odd carefully placed zip, not to mention a few exciting moments involving too high slippery shoes. One model actually removed her shoes at the end of the catwalk in protest, and another one tumbled right in front of me on the final walk through. Exciting stuff! Read my review of the A/W 2011 Lukasz Jemiol collection here.

Lukasz Jemiol S/S 2012 by Joe Cruz.

Lukasz Jemiol Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Lukasz Jemiol S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday November 9th, 2011 11:26 am

Categories ,Cowboy, ,draping, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fringes, ,Joe Cruz, ,Lodz, ,Lukasz Jemiol, ,Model Fall, ,Native American, ,review, ,S/S 2012

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: MMC Studio Design

MMC Studio Design S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

MMC Studio Design closed Friday night at Fashion Week Poland with a dramatic catwalk show. Things kicked off with a stage hand struggling gleefully down the stage as she held aloft a large amount of helium balloons. As the lights went up she released them towards the ceiling as fake snow began to fall. Except this being a spring/summer show I guess it was supposed to be more like confetti.

MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

MMC Studio Design S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Out stepped the models in a selection of relaxed white separates paired with heavy white eyelids that blinked again the snowy onslaught. Legs were daubed with lines in place of old fashioned stockings and their feet were clad in white Dr. Martens. For variety there were a few grey garments and the odd bit of swishy transparent chiffon. As the lighting was lowered to ever more dramatic levels the snow – sorry, confetti – continued to fall. The final pieces really maxed up the sportsluxe look with deep crusts of sequins arranged in snowy camouflage patterns. A collection fit for an ice queen, sorry, summer princess. You can read my review of MMC Studio Design‘s A/W 2011 collection here.

MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Watch the finale here.

At the end everyone had fun playing with the thick piles of white tissue paper that had descended onto the catwalk.

MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Systeme D and Jemima Daisy play in the *snow*

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday November 7th, 2011 10:35 pm

Categories ,Confetti, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Grey, ,Jemima Daisy, ,Lodz, ,MMC Studio Design, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,SarahJayneDraws, ,Sequins, ,Snow, ,sportsluxe, ,Systeme D

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Monika Ptaszek

Monika-Ptaszek-Polish-Fashion-Week-by-Antonia-Parker
Monika Ptaszek S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

One of my very favourite collections at Fashion Week Poland this time around came courtesy of Monika Ptaszek, who showed a menswear collection that mashed together a variety of eclectic styles to great effect. Think teddyboy meets punk meets rave meets grunge: the final effect was the epitome of Polish style when it’s done right.

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Monika Ptaszek S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Models came with serious attitude, sporting impressive quiffs and pouting with great intent at the end of the catwalk. Androgynous elements such as lace swing tops, swirly sheer leggings and bespoke brocade shoes sat together easily with manly studded details on sleeves and cropped tartan jackets. Colourful floral prints and patchwork hoods were accessorised with chunky woven scarves. I spoke with Monika Ptaszek afterwards at her stand, and was intrigued to discover that her last collection was entirely black. For S/S 2012 she cites the metropolitan man who roams Paris as her ideal customer, and I can well imagine him wearing Ptaszek for Men. Loved it.

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

And not forgetting the fabulous brocade shoes:

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday November 8th, 2011 7:38 pm

Categories ,80s, ,Antonia Parker, ,Brocade, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,gay, ,grunge, ,Lodz, ,menswear, ,Metropolitan, ,Monika Ptaszek, ,paris, ,Patchwork, ,Ptaszek for Men, ,punk, ,rave, ,Teddyboy

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Shumik 100% and Aga Pou

Aga Pou S/S 2012 by Marta Spendowska.

Time for reports from the last two shows of my trip to Poland… Shumik 100% and Aga Pou.

Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Shumik 100% S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I was utterly bemused by the Shumik 100% show – at the back of the catwalk a neon pink backdrop declared ‘Headwear Design‘ so I spent the whole show convinced that the bizarre hats – over the top feathered creations and ugly turbans in every conceivable type of wrap – were all that we were being shown. I thus paid very little attention to the clothes, an insipid and flimsy collection made up of sweetie coloured chiffon and shiny stretch fabrics. I was afterwards informed that the Shumik designers Karina Gozdz and Anna Leszkiewicz have been working professionally for several years and that IN LOVE was their first collection created together. Not impressed.

Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Much better was the last catwalk show of my visit to Fashion Week Poland, an angular affair from Aga Pou. For S/S 2012 she was inspired by cubism, using transparent fabrics to give the impression of blocks penetrating each other. Unfortunately I was late getting to the show and was only allowed to stand at the side which afforded me a dire view and severely limited my ability to take decent photos, thereby putting me in a foul mood since the collection seemed really quite impressive… all in all the Aga Pou collection was a pretty good way to sign out of the Polish S/S 2012 season.