Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland

Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: lovers of Raggedy Grunge

Agnieszka Kowalska by Victoria Haynes.

I have learnt that grungey raggedy looks are a great favourite of Polish fashion designers. And so is grey. How they love their greys! No surprise then that this round up includes both of The Golden Thread winners.

Sabina Koryl
Sabina Koryl Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Sabina Koryl showed a 90s influenced grunge collection of deconstructed leather and rubberised garments in dark shades, more about accessorised with dangling reflectors and round sunglasses.

Dominka Naziebly
Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Dominka Naziebly was all about the distressed denim, mangled knitwear dangling in swishing loops and my favourite piece: a fun squished fabric layered red dress that called to mind the work of Georgia Hardinge. I think the garments might have been made from recycled fabrics, for which she gets massive brownie points.

Gareth A Hopkins Monika Jaworska Golden Thread
Monika Jaworska by Gareth A Hopkins.

Monika Jaworska
Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Monika Jaworska showed a military meets peasant collection with lots of highly wearable frayed louche shapes in beiges and neutrals; a clear commercial favourite that would easily translate into production. She won the Pret a Porter Golden Thread category.

Agnieszka Kowalska
Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Winner
Agnieszka Kowalska presented one of my favourite Golden Thread collections: flamboyant tea stained flounces layered in tattered circus style sent down the catwalk to a soundtrack of traditional hornpipes. Tights and socks were holey and muddy, exposing bony knees, and in the case of one particular man, way too much.

Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Winner
It was all going so incredibly well until he stepped out on the catwalk. No no no, man with chunky thighs in tights not good. Not for Fall/Winter, not ever. Despite this glaring faux pas Agnieszka Kowalska was a worthy winner of the Premiere Vision category.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday May 13th, 2011 5:20 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Agnieszka Kowalska, ,Dominka Naziebly, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,grunge, ,Lodz, ,Modus Vivendi, ,Monika Jaworska, ,poland, ,Premiere Vision, ,Pret-a-porter, ,Raggedy Grunge, ,recycled, ,Sabina Koryl, ,Szałapot, ,The Golden Thread, ,Victoria Haynes, ,Winner

Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: Black, Grey, Red and White

Damian Konieczny Fashion Week Poland 2011 by Fi Blog.

Black, information pills white, grey and red predominated everywhere at Fashion Week Poland. Here’s who took up the theme at The Golden Thread Awards.

Magdalena Herwich Golden Thread Poland Fashion Week AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou
Magdalena Herwich A/W 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou.

Magdalena Herwich
Magdalena Herwich Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Magdalena Herwich‘s collection was entirely black and red… featuring tassels, pompoms and inexplicably, gun holsters. Why?! The curled and cascading head pieces were without a doubt my favourite bit.

Monika Blazusiak
Monika Blazusiak Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Monika Blazusiak put together a very black leathery collection, accessorised with over sized bags. There were some interesting architectural shapes going on, and I particularly liked the tumbling layers of an oversized woollen coat top.

Damian Konieczny
Damian Konieczny Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Damian Konieczny featured black catsuits covered in what I initially thought were swishing tassels, but turned out to be bouncy metal threads. Some pieces undoubtedly worked better than others, with spiked trousers imitating the legs of a great hairy beast… but at least the collection was fun. And also popular with the crowd, who whooped and cheered.

Kinga Dubiel 2011 by Antonia Parker
Kinga Dubiel by Antonia Parker.

Kinga Dubiel
Kinga Dubiel Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Kinga Dubiel sent out garments that constrained the arms, befitting to the circus cabaret theme. Poorly cut asymmetric tailoring in monochrome did not really do it for me but the cascading arms on a dress (very similar to Monika Blazusiak’s coat) made for an effective silhouette.

Anya Kamarek
Anya Kamarek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Anya Kamarek sent her models out in pairs wearing asymmetric white outfits, combined with pewter tones and outsized fluffy sleeves. The best piece was a sleeveless square backed shirt with curious shoulder flaps.

Nina Krowlikowska
Nina Krowlikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Nina Krowlikowska concentrated on menswear. Lots of layered black fabric and cowled heads were set to a slow and moody electro beat, a favourite for catwalk soundtracks in Poland…

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 16th, 2011 7:12 pm

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Anya Kamarek, ,Damian Konieczny, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fi Blog, ,Kinga Dubiel, ,Lodz, ,Magdalena Herwich, ,Michalis Christodoulou, ,Monika Blazusiak, ,Nina Krowlikowska, ,poland, ,The Golden Thread

Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: Colourful Patterns

Jo Cheung_Sofie Gauden Golden Thread AW 2011
Sofie Gauden AW 2011 by Jo Cheung.

Very few Golden Thread designers really embraced colour and pattern. But these ones did.

Natalia Paliy Golden Thread Poland Fashion Week AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou
Natalia Paliy AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou.

Natalia Paliy
Natalia Paliy Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Natalia Paliy really set her own pace with a happy tune mashup and an eager parade of smiling models in summery flower prints sent straight down to the end of the catwalk in a phalanx. The styling was bloody awful but the prints were rather lovely underneath it all… who knows if she was responsible for them herself? And was this really Fall/Winter I ask you?!

Domi Grzybek by Hannah Simpson.

Domi Grzybek
Domi Grzybek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Domi Grzybek paraded coral fitted jackets with gold sequin pants, viagra 100mg slouchy 80s influenced numbers with wide shoulders, viagra drop crotch nappy pants, plastic capes and patchwork body con dresses which had the air of Holly Fulton and Christopher Kane some seasons back. I liked the colour palette, but there was a major problem with poor tailoring: badly fitted bodycon dresses are never a good plan.

Katharina Kubiak
Katharina Kubiak Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Katharina Kubiak‘s over the top womenswear styling was a total dog’s dinner but her printed mix and match aesthetic worked well on shorts suits for men. I liked them a lot… now she just needs to concentrate on what she does best.

Sofie Gauden Golden Thread AW 2011Jo Cheung
Sofie Gauden AW 2011 by Jo Cheung.

Sofie Gaudaen
Sofie Gaudaen Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Sofie Gaudaen ended the evening with a collection of neon rave shamans: barefooted models sporting plenty of feathers and fringing. I loved the colours but it was not the strongest showing of the night to end on…

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday May 13th, 2011 6:00 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Christopher Kane, ,colour, ,Domi Grzybek, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Hannah Simpson, ,Holly Fulton, ,Jo Cheung, ,Katharina Kubiak, ,Lodz, ,Natalia Paliy, ,poland, ,Polish, ,Premiere Vision, ,Pret-a-porter, ,print, ,Shamen, ,Sofie Gaudaen, ,Sofie Gauden, ,Stock vodka, ,Szałapot, ,The Golden Thread, ,Złota Nitka

Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: The Pastel, Petrol and Beige

Paulina_Matuszelanska_Fashion_Week_Poland_Soni_Speight
Paulina Matuszelanska by Soni Speight.

These three designers showed collections in tones of pastels, information pills petrol and beige.

Gareth A Hopkins Marta Gos Golden Thread
Marta Gos by Gareth A Hopkins.

Marta Gos
Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Marta Gos had fun with holes and dangling bits. The strange armour-like silhouettes were rendered wearable in a creamy pastel and buttermilk colour palette.

Paulina Matuszelanska AW'11 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Paulina Matuszelanska by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Paulina Matuszelanska
Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Paulina Matuszelanska showed a very strong collection in lemon yellow, medical camel, mint green and powder blue. There were boxy shoulders aplenty, maxi length pleats and fluffy cropped jumpers – this catwalk show was a rare example of good styling, with slicked back high ponytails and chunky colour block necklaces completing the look. Definitely one of my favourites. Many of the clothes were stuff that I might actually want to wear, hurrah!

Alicja Antoszczyk by Alia Gargum.

Alicja Antoszczyk
Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011
Alicja Antoszczyk sent all her models out with hands slipped nonchalantly into pockets. Long rain macs and calf length skirts came in dull gold and petrol blue matt plastic fabrics. Black, powder blue and rosy red lent colour to the remaining layered pieces. A very strong and coherent collection.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 16th, 2011 9:03 pm

Categories ,80s, ,Alia Gargum, ,Alicja Antoszczyk, ,Beige, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Lodz, ,Marta Gos, ,pastels, ,Paulina Matuszelanska, ,Plastic, ,Soni Speight, ,The Golden Thread

Amelia’s Magazine | Krystof Strozyna: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Krystof Strozyna A/W 2012 by Carol Ryder.

Krystof Strozyna showed on Friday 17th February in the Fashion Scout salon. I dashed in at the last minute, giving me pole position at the end of the catwalk.

krystof strozyna AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

This was a more sombre showing than is usual from the renowned Polish designer, featuring a predominantly neutral colour palette of black, cream, sand and milk chocolate – a flash of royal blue in the form of two sexy silk dresses provided welcome relief.

krystof strozyna AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

Krystof Strozyna A/W 2012 by Jacqueline Valencia.

The collection featured asymmetric shaping that revealed large expanses of thigh, zippered blouse details combined with sheer panels, and draping aplenty. Having spent so much time at Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland over the past few seasons I now recognise all these elements to be the backbone of a typically Polish aesthetic, and unfortunately I felt that Krystof Strozyna was playing it incredibly safe. The demands of commerciality could well be exerting a strong hold over the designer these days: come back, experimental Krystof of yore.

krystof strozyna AW 2012 -photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday February 22nd, 2012 5:26 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Carol Ryder, ,catwalk, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Scout, ,Jacqueline Valencia, ,Krystof Strozyna, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Salon

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Teresa Kopias

Teresa Kopias S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve.

I arrived late for the Teresa Kopias show, which afforded me a great view of the models posing in front of a wind machine at the head of the catwalk, but sadly not of the buff men posed on stilts at the other end.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory

Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. All photography Amelia Gregory.

I have been told that Teresa Kopias is not what is considered a ‘proper’ designer in Poland, rather she is someone who has been around for ever, who started her career many years ago selling dresses on a market stall and now makes high end formal wear. Well, she may not be massively fashion forward, but I thought her beautifully made dresses were pretty fabulous for a special occasion, and I could easily see a few of them gracing the red carpet.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory

The show was split into two halves, with the first section given over to formal day wear: brightly coloured shantung silk dresses with oversized bow detailing. The lighting then became more dramatic as a series of blowsy chiffon dresses took centre stage. Teresa Kopias‘ S/S 2012 collection may not have been ground-breaking, but it was rather lovely, I thought.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory

Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. Doesn’t this last model have a touch of the Kate Moss about her?

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory

Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. Note buff men on stilts!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday November 1st, 2011 5:23 pm

Categories ,Chiffon, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Geiko Louve, ,Kate Moss, ,Lodz, ,Naked Men, ,Shantung Silk, ,Teresa Kopias

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Zuo Corp

Zuo Corp S/S 2011 by Antonia Parker.

Zuo Corp used a disturbing soundtrack that featured clanging bells and what sounded like screaming monkeys. It was an odd accompaniment to a collection that featured some very elegant tailored pieces and which riffed nicely on some current on trend details. Pan collars were outsized and padded on suited bodies and fitted jackets came with a 60s vibe or exaggerated rounded sleeves, enhanced by the swirling up dos.

Zuo Corp Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia gregory

Twice a group of models trekked to the end of the catwalk in formation wearing bandeau tops and sleekly fitted pencil skirts which created a kind of glamourous lingerie vibe. Neoprene, plastic and lace were constructed into tightly tailored jacket dresses and sheaths, with an injection of colour in the form of searing tangerine orange. Many of the collection’s winning elements were repeated far more than necessary, but otherwise this was a glamourous and on trend collection with international appeal. Read my review of the A/W 2012 Zuo Corp catwalk show here. It featured a full marching band!

Zuo Corp Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia gregory

Zuo Corp S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday November 9th, 2011 9:57 am

Categories ,60s, ,Antonia Parker, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,lingerie, ,Lodz, ,Neoprene, ,Orange, ,Pan Collars, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Sculptural, ,Suiting, ,Zuo Corp

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Gala Dyplomowa Show at Andels

Dominika Naziebly by Joanne Oatts
Dominika Naziebly A/W 2010 by Joanne Oatts.

On Thursday night Andels Hotel hosted the Gala Graduate show of the Academy of Fine Arts, otherwise known as the Gala Dyplomowa, featuring top graduate fashion talent. We were ushered to the top floor of the hotel where the warehouse has retained its original huge proportions, big enough for a catwalk and plenty of seating. An utterly fabulous venue, and very convenient too…

Here, in alphabetical order (cos that’s the way it rolls) are the designers that showed:

Adriana Grudzinska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Adrianna Grudzinska showed Polacz Kropki (Slow Up) – swing dresses and pleated separates in shades of camel, mushroom and peach.

Aleksandra Kmieci Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Aleksandra Kmiecik Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Kobieta Symetryczna featured sharp tailoring in white, black and beige with highlights in red slashes by Aleksandra Kmiecik, who also shows on the main schedule. I saw parts of this collection last season and you can read my review here.

Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Gala graduate designer Alicja Antoszczyk showed as part of the Golden Thread Awards last season, so I instantly recognised her sleek rubberised garments, layered in sophisticated shades. The collection is called Zawsze Jest Jakie’s Ale: intriguing!

Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Eco designer Dominika Naziebly also showed at the Golden Thread Awards: my favourite was wheeled out once again, a stunning red puffball dress. This season she also showed on the Off Out Of Schedule catwalk, review to come shortly.

Elzbieta Kapczynska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Zip details and drop crotches were the order of the day at Elzbieta Kapczynska-KC, with a collection titled Zbroja Miejska.

Magdalena Zajaczkowska Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Magdalena Zajaczkowska by Geiko Louve.

Magdalena Zajaczkowska‘s collection was called Sploty I Przeploty, meaning Pleats and Intertwines. She showed oversized and bulbous knitwear in slate and dark jewel colours.

Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Martyna Idzikowska showed a reprise of her innovative collection shown at the Golden Thread Awards – incredible layers of white fabrics created egg-like silhouettes, emphasised with blood red underlayers.

Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Olga Mieloszyk by Novemto Komo.

Not speaking a word of Polish, I can’t be entirely sure, but I think that Olga Mieloszyk won the main award. Her Oranzeria collection was amongst my favourites: beautiful and wearable womens and menswear with intricate frills, panelling and pleated details in shades of orange and browns.

Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended with a beautiful selection of sculpted evening dresses in sweetie shades by Karolina Glegula, except I am not sure I wrote down her name correctly: I did my best by squinting at the screen behind the catwalk since there was no information in written form to take away.

Find out more about the Golden Thread Awards in my previous blog post: it was certainly a night to remember: two solid hours of catwalk show!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday November 2nd, 2011 1:00 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Academy of Fine Arts, ,Adrianna Grudzinska, ,Aleksandra Kmiecik, ,Alicja Antoszczyk, ,Andels, ,Coats, ,Dominika Naziebly, ,Eco fashion, ,Elzbieta Kapczynska, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gala Dyplomowa, ,Gala Show, ,Geiko Louve, ,Golden Thread Awards, ,Joanne Oatts, ,Karolina Glegula, ,knitwear, ,Kobieta Symetryczna, ,Lodz, ,Magdalena Zajaczkowska, ,Martyna Idzikowska, ,Novemto Komo, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Olga Mieloszyk, ,Oranzeria, ,Pleats and Intertwines, ,Polacz Kropki (Slow Up), ,Sploty i Przeploty, ,Zawsze Jest Jakie’s Ale, ,Zbroja Miejska

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Joanna Klimas

Joanna Klimas S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

The stars were out in force for catwalk favourite Joanna Klimas; including daughter of an ex president Aleksandra Kwasniewska & Eurovision Dance Contest star Edyta Herbus. No, I don’t know them either but I made sure someone explained what all the excitement was about.

Joanna Klimas Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-Aleksandra Kwasniewska & Eurovision Dance Contest star Edyta Herbus

Joanna Klimas S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

Joanna Klimas combined a bold colour palette of bright orange, grey, white, navy and black in a multitude of slick pleated formations. Favoured lengths were mid and maxi, worn with a purse belt or elegant clutch to match a mussed up hair do. Also on trend were sheer fabrics for blouses and as panels in overskirts. I can see many an elegant Polish woman swanning around in Joanna Klimas. And doesn’t this first model have a profile that reminds you a bit of Amy Winehouse, just a smidgen?

Joanna Klimas Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia gregory

Joanna Klimas S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday November 9th, 2011 1:03 pm

Categories ,Aleksandra Kwasniewska, ,Antonia Parker, ,Bold, ,Edyta Herbus, ,Eurovision Dance Contest, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Joanna Klimas, ,Lodz, ,pleats, ,S/S 2012, ,Sheer

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Lucja Wojtala

Lucja Wojtala S/S 2012 by Kareena Zerefos
Lucja Wojtala S/S 2012 by Kareena Zerefos.

I really liked Lucja Wojtala‘s new collection, which featured intricate jacquard knits in a variety of wonderful designs inspired by the traditional aesthetics of South America, Turkey, India and Africa. She calls this look ‘global primary folk with a modern twist.’ Bandeau mini dresses came with a flouncy black peplum at the waist and longer dresses came with panels of different textured knit, either wrapped and tied or dangling to create different length interest. Panelled cardigans were worn over brilliant geometric designed leggings and hair was worn with side plait details. Mixing pastel shades of lemon yellow, mushroom and peach with greys, royal blue and black, this was a bold and wearable collection accessorised with brilliant matching brocade heels.

Lucja Wojtala Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Lucja Wojtala comes from a family of knitwear specialists stretching back three generations and has trained as an intern in John Galliano‘s atelier. All her yarn is sourced from Italy and the garments are produced in the family workshops and knitting mill.