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Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: lovers of Raggedy Grunge

Agnieszka Kowalska by Victoria Haynes.

I have learnt that grungey raggedy looks are a great favourite of Polish fashion designers. And so is grey. How they love their greys! No surprise then that this round up includes both of The Golden Thread winners.

Sabina Koryl
Sabina Koryl Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Sabina Koryl showed a 90s influenced grunge collection of deconstructed leather and rubberised garments in dark shades, more about accessorised with dangling reflectors and round sunglasses.

Dominka Naziebly
Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Dominka Naziebly was all about the distressed denim, mangled knitwear dangling in swishing loops and my favourite piece: a fun squished fabric layered red dress that called to mind the work of Georgia Hardinge. I think the garments might have been made from recycled fabrics, for which she gets massive brownie points.

Gareth A Hopkins Monika Jaworska Golden Thread
Monika Jaworska by Gareth A Hopkins.

Monika Jaworska
Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Monika Jaworska showed a military meets peasant collection with lots of highly wearable frayed louche shapes in beiges and neutrals; a clear commercial favourite that would easily translate into production. She won the Pret a Porter Golden Thread category.

Agnieszka Kowalska
Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Winner
Agnieszka Kowalska presented one of my favourite Golden Thread collections: flamboyant tea stained flounces layered in tattered circus style sent down the catwalk to a soundtrack of traditional hornpipes. Tights and socks were holey and muddy, exposing bony knees, and in the case of one particular man, way too much.

Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Winner
It was all going so incredibly well until he stepped out on the catwalk. No no no, man with chunky thighs in tights not good. Not for Fall/Winter, not ever. Despite this glaring faux pas Agnieszka Kowalska was a worthy winner of the Premiere Vision category.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday May 13th, 2011 5:20 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Agnieszka Kowalska, ,Dominka Naziebly, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,grunge, ,Lodz, ,Modus Vivendi, ,Monika Jaworska, ,poland, ,Premiere Vision, ,Pret-a-porter, ,Raggedy Grunge, ,recycled, ,Sabina Koryl, ,Szałapot, ,The Golden Thread, ,Victoria Haynes, ,Winner

Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź

?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011

As with all the shows at Fashion Week Poland, price The Golden Thread Awards show began with a booming announcement somewhat akin to the call to board an interstellar spacecraft: Please take your seats now, information pills the mission to Mars is about to commence. That or a catwalk show.

?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 streetstyle

Fashion Week Poland was not hot on front row goodie bags… but The Golden Thread did as good as it said on the tin: waiting on our seats were small plastic bags of sewing thread, viagra sale handy for all those crafty projects. The Golden Thread, otherwise known in Polish as Z?ota Nitka, is responsible for launching the most talented fashion design graduates into the public realm – it counts amongst its winners the well known design duo Paprocki & Brzozowski.

Golden Thread Award Fashion Week Poland AW 2011

French fashion celebrity Marcellous staged a fabulous late entrance in a fuchsia pink suit and purple ostrich brogues, carrying aloft his angel-winged Jack Russell Phaedra. Phaedra is herself a celebrity and had her very own doggy fashion week pass. Marcellous was trailed by a camera crew who obscured our view somewhat as the local dignitaries all rose for a bow, which I found most amusing.

?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 Marcellous and Phaedra
Marcellous & Phaedra dressed down on another day.

?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 Phaedra Amelia
Phaedra, the best behaved dog ever, on my lap.

Also on our seats was what looked curiously like a posh wine list – a line up of the competing entries for The Golden Thread award in black and jewelled red: I’d like a glass of Anya with my catwalk please.

Golden Thread Award Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Marcellous

After a series of mainly Polish announcements the lengthy catwalk show began. This was separated into two sections: Pret a Porter and Premiere Vision – the sort of couture section, though I would have struggled to define the two apart myself. Two bum-numbing hours later Marcellous was hauled onto the catwalk to present a gift from Kenzo Takada and then we arose for a break… which mainly consisted of heading for the free Stock vodka bar in the VIP lounge upstairs.

Golden Thread Award Fashion Week Poland AW 2011

Then, round two, we had the awards ceremony, again conducted mainly in Polish so I could only really hazard a guess at what was going on. How’s this for a summary: lots of awards were basically given to the same few designers, who struggled to balance their gifts in their arms.

Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Monika Jaworska‘s Modus Vivendi collection which won the Pret-a-porter division at The Golden Thread Awards, AW 2011

Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Agnieszka Kowalska, winner of the Premiere Vision category at The Golden Thread Awards. A/W 2011

The major prize Pret a Porter went to Monika Jaworska for her Modus Vivendi collection… sweet enough but not my favourite by a long shot. In the Premiere Vision category Agnieska Kowalska was a worthy winner for her flouncy tea-stained collection Sza?apot, definitely one of the strongest on the catwalk. If I’d been choosing winners both Dominika Piekutowska Swed and Paulina Matuszelanska would definitely have figured in there somewhere.

Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Dominika Piekutowska Swed.

Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Paulina Matuszelanska.

I’d say check out The Golden Thread award website for more information, but as with many designers in Poland the website for the award does not appear to be a priority – it’s pretty basic to say the least. Business-like, it might even be fair to say. Hardly inspiring stuff given the nature of the award, which is a wonderful kickstart for creative young Polish fashion designers.

Coming up: a run down of each show, with my analysis of Polish fashion trends…

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday May 13th, 2011 4:02 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Agnieska Kowalska, ,Celebrity, ,competition, ,couture, ,Dog, ,Dominika Piekutowska Swed, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,french, ,Golden Thread Awards, ,graduate, ,Jack Russell, ,Kenzo Takada, ,Lodz, ,Marcellous, ,Modus Vivendi, ,Monika Jaworska, ,Paprocki & Brzozowski, ,Paulina Matuszelanska, ,Phaedra, ,poland, ,Polish, ,Premiere Vision, ,Pret-a-porter, ,Stock vodka, ,Szałapot, ,The Golden Thread, ,VIP, ,Złota Nitka

Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: Colourful Patterns

Jo Cheung_Sofie Gauden Golden Thread AW 2011
Sofie Gauden AW 2011 by Jo Cheung.

Very few Golden Thread designers really embraced colour and pattern. But these ones did.

Natalia Paliy Golden Thread Poland Fashion Week AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou
Natalia Paliy AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou.

Natalia Paliy
Natalia Paliy Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Natalia Paliy really set her own pace with a happy tune mashup and an eager parade of smiling models in summery flower prints sent straight down to the end of the catwalk in a phalanx. The styling was bloody awful but the prints were rather lovely underneath it all… who knows if she was responsible for them herself? And was this really Fall/Winter I ask you?!

Domi Grzybek by Hannah Simpson.

Domi Grzybek
Domi Grzybek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Domi Grzybek paraded coral fitted jackets with gold sequin pants, viagra 100mg slouchy 80s influenced numbers with wide shoulders, viagra drop crotch nappy pants, plastic capes and patchwork body con dresses which had the air of Holly Fulton and Christopher Kane some seasons back. I liked the colour palette, but there was a major problem with poor tailoring: badly fitted bodycon dresses are never a good plan.

Katharina Kubiak
Katharina Kubiak Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Katharina Kubiak‘s over the top womenswear styling was a total dog’s dinner but her printed mix and match aesthetic worked well on shorts suits for men. I liked them a lot… now she just needs to concentrate on what she does best.

Sofie Gauden Golden Thread AW 2011Jo Cheung
Sofie Gauden AW 2011 by Jo Cheung.

Sofie Gaudaen
Sofie Gaudaen Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Sofie Gaudaen ended the evening with a collection of neon rave shamans: barefooted models sporting plenty of feathers and fringing. I loved the colours but it was not the strongest showing of the night to end on…