Bryce Aime – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Bryce Aime

Blue lips. Lipstick. Even on the male models. Wrong or right?
Well Elliot J Frieze certainly thought it was right when he sent his models sashaying down the catwalk wearing “cool blue” on their smackers. And all only in his second season at London Fashion Week S/S 11. Brave move.

But actually Frieze always packs his shows with a little something extra; last season Jacquette Wheeler and Amber Le Bon were models du jour and this season see’s an appearance from Chronicles of Narnia actress (and muse) Anna Popplewell.

Of the actual collection though I wasn’t convinced. A mixture of Menswear and Womenswear the pieces were part utility and part work wear. No joke, store models wore dishevelled ties over striped shirts and clashed them with gingham dirndl skirts all in a palette of “powder shades of lemon and blueberry sherbet, hard boiled peppermints coupled with vibrant shades of fruit nougat for trimmings.” All a bit too saccharine for my liking. Top that off with a male model in a cropped powder blue jacket and something was not quite right.

Although Frieze did pull it back with his classic tailored trench coats and dresses; something of a speciality due to his known skill of “driving the boundaries of classic tailoring.”

I don’t think it was the aim though to send a model down the catwalk with her dress undone. Poor girl had to keep it together with her hand behind her back all the way down. All in a days work for a fashion designer!

A fashion mistake….not a new trend

Despite the sickly colour palette Frieze pulled together a collection that was rounded and made sense whilst sticking to his “British Heritage.” Taking his final walk down the catwalk Frieze surprised us all by joining the models in their love of blue lips. Cheeky scamp. But even more surprisingly (for Frieze and us) one spectator felt compelled to jump out of their seat and accost him for a photo before he walked off stage. Even though slightly stunned (and who wouldn’t be…..security!) Frieze ever the professional made the most of the impromptu photo op and posed with his muse. Lets not write off this one yet.

Illustration by Jaymie O’Callaghan
Bryce Aime show at On/Off
Illustrations by Gabriel Ayala

Random celebrity spot of the day had to go to Janice Dickinson – who sat botoxed to the max in the front row at Bryce Aime. Well, about it apparently. I didn’t see the self-proclaimed ‘world’s first supermodel’ (and funniest guest on Come Dine with Me in the show’s history) because I was crammed in at the back of the On / Off showcase. My camera would be out of action, information pills thanks to the guys in turbans standing in front of me, viagra 60mg but with the lively, laid-back atmosphere and banging music in the On/Off space, it was on with the show.

Bryce Aime fashion illustration
Illustrations by Gabriel Ayala

Known for his understated, elegant designs, and harsh tailoring, Bryce Aime was going in a different direction for S/S 11, with ‘Asiarama’ (my favourite show title so far) a theatrical collection drawing on Kabuki costume and the Beijing Opera. It was quite a show – Bryce’s skilled tailoring and clean lines hadn’t quite disappeared, with some kimono style tops, and structured dresses, but things were a lot more playful than usual. It was like seeing a harlequin transported to the Far East – with mismatched coloured tights, bright clown like makeup and space age shoes. There were also hats aplenty – avant-garde headpieces and even a mini crown of pom poms and feather plumes.

Bryce Aime Fashion Illustration
Illustrations by Gabriel Ayala

Thankfully, Bryce’s sensational prints were still there, but manipulated into skin tight leggings and even a fluid chiffon mini dress. This was the first time Bryce had branched out into shoes and headgear, and he went for all-out drama. It was entirely unexpected collection – but a whole lot of fun.

Written by Lauren Smith on Tuesday September 21st, 2010 4:53 pm

Categories ,Bryce Aime, ,Leggings, ,lfw, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,onoff, ,S/S 2011, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Womenswear Preview: On|Off

Charlie le Mindu A/W 2010, recipe for sale illustrated by Naomi Law

Cheeky Charlie le Mindu already had quite the reputation when he burst onto the scene in dramatic fashion a couple of years ago. As celebrity hairdresser to the stars, sildenafil he’d already produced a client list that included the likes of Florence Welsh, Uffie, Lady Gaga and Peaches. His first collection showed the makings of a designer with impact, with dramatic silhouettes, contrasting materials and eery influences. But it was his star performance in the Blow Presents… show for S/S 2009 that really grabbed the media’s attention. His collection, made from human hair and luxe materials, caused a stir in that way that radical fashion does and rendering row after row of fashionista breathless.

Charlie le Mindu, S/S 2010

But what would he do next? Surely you can’t keep on making bonkers frocks from hair, can you? Well, it turns out you can, and last season Charlie had us bouncing up and down with glee with his sexed-up religious collection – a more refined and sophisticated one that still managed to convey Charlie’s unique vision.

Church bells chimed and haunting cackles played, while androgynous models appeared one after the other sporting racy all-in-one lace numbers and crosses atop their heads or cocoon-like headpieces (see the video here).

I managed to catch up with Charlie for a (brief) chat to delve a bit more into the psyche of this weird and wonderful designer. I have to warn you, though – he doesn’t give much away. But in three days it’s time for collection number four – one the whole of fashion week’s attendees waits for with huge anticipation.

Charlie le Mindu S/S 2010, illustrated by Steph Parr

Hi Charlie! You’re quickly rising up the fashion ranks, what’s been the highlight of your journey so far?
I think the highlight for the moment is to have met new friends like Anna Trevelayn, who is totally on the same wavelength as me in terms of ideas.

What was the inspiration behind your eery A/W 2010 collection?
It was based on religion and I wanted to show that all religion could be very sexy and dirty at the same time.

What is it about hair that fascinates you so much?
I can do anything I want to do with it. It’s a perfect match of fabrics for me, and it’s the texture I’ve worked with since I was 13!

Of all your celebrity hair clients, who have been the best (or worst) to work with?!
The best one was Carolina Bambina from Kap Bambino and Peaches, because they are my best mates.

Charlie le Mindu, A/W 2010

A number of stylish celebrities have been seen wearing your work, from Gaga to Drew Barrymore. Who else would you like to dress?
I’d love to dress Cher, so much. She is the queen of plastic surgery! She is never gonna die, so I could work with her forever!

How are you preparing for this coming fashion week? Are you excited? Nervous?
I’m very excited – I think it’s going to be my dirtiest show so far!!!

You’re part of the latest breed of London fashion designers who push the boundaries in that unique, raw way. How do you think London fashion compares to the other bigger cities?
I don’t think I push the boundaries, because if I did push it, people wouldn’t come to see my show! I just try to make things fun. And sexy. London fashion is fun, but it’s going to be more fun again in a few years time I think.

Do you find juggling haute coiffure and haute couture a challenge? Which do you prefer?
It’s the same for me, they work together.

What’s next for Charlie Le Mindu?
Maybe opening a shop…!

Charlie le Mindu A/W 2010, visit this illustrated by Naomi Law

Cheeky Charlie le Mindu already had quite the reputation when he burst onto the scene in dramatic fashion a couple of years ago. As celebrity hairdresser to the stars, try he’d already produced a client list that included the likes of Florence Welsh, about it Uffie, Lady Gaga and Peaches. His first collection showed the makings of a designer with impact, with dramatic silhouettes, contrasting materials and eery influences. But it was his star performance in the Blow Presents… show for S/S 2009 that really grabbed the media’s attention. His collection, made from human hair and luxe materials, caused a stir in that way that radical fashion does and rendering row after row of fashionista breathless.

Charlie le Mindu, S/S 2010

Charlie le Mindu S/S 2010, illustrated by Steph Parr

What was the inspiration behind your eery A/W 2010 collection?
It was based on religion and I wanted to show that all religion could be very sexy and dirty at the same time.

What is it about hair that fascinates you so much?
I can do anything I want to do with it. It’s a perfect match of fabrics for me, and it’s the texture I’ve worked with since I was 13!

Of all your celebrity hair clients, who have been the best (or worst) to work with?!
The best one was Carolina Bambina from Kap Bambino and Peaches, because they are my best mates.

Charlie le Mindu, A/W 2010

How are you preparing for this coming fashion week? Are you excited? Nervous?
I’m very excited – I think it’s going to be my dirtiest show so far!!!

Do you find juggling haute coiffure and haute couture a challenge? Which do you prefer?
It’s the same for me, they work together.

What’s next for Charlie Le Mindu?
Maybe opening a shop…!

Charlie le Mindu A/W 2010, page illustrated by Naomi Law

Cheeky Charlie le Mindu already had quite the reputation when he burst onto the scene in dramatic fashion a couple of years ago. As celebrity hairdresser to the stars, he’d already produced a client list that included the likes of Florence Welsh, Uffie, Lady Gaga and Peaches. His first collection showed the makings of a designer with impact, with dramatic silhouettes, contrasting materials and eery influences. But it was his star performance in the Blow Presents… show for S/S 2009 that really grabbed the media’s attention. His collection, made from human hair and luxe materials, caused a stir in that way that radical fashion does and rendering row after row of fashionista breathless.

Charlie le Mindu, S/S 2010

Church bells chimed and haunting cackles played, while androgynous models appeared one after the other sporting racy all-in-one lace numbers and crucifixes atop their heads or cocoon-like headpieces (see the video here).

Charlie le Mindu S/S 2010, illustrated by Steph Parr

What was the inspiration behind your eery A/W 2010 collection?
It was based on religion and I wanted to show that all religion could be very sexy and dirty at the same time.

What is it about hair that fascinates you so much?
I can do anything I want to do with it. It’s a perfect match of fabrics for me, and it’s the texture I’ve worked with since I was 13!

Of all your celebrity hair clients, who have been the best (or worst) to work with?!
The best one was Carolina Bambina from Kap Bambino and Peaches, because they are my best mates.

Charlie le Mindu, A/W 2010

How are you preparing for this coming fashion week? Are you excited? Nervous?
I’m very excited – I think it’s going to be my dirtiest show so far!!!

Do you find juggling haute coiffure and haute couture a challenge? Which do you prefer?
It’s the same for me, they work together.

What’s next for Charlie Le Mindu?
Maybe opening a shop…!

Aminaka Wilmont A/W 2010, viagra illustrated by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

London Fashion Week is renowned for showcasing up and coming design talent – and nowhere is more uniquely ‘London’ than On|Off. Now in it’s twelfth season, this is an independent fashion showcase away from the major players at Somerset House.

Helping launch the careers of off-schedule designers like Mark Fast, the On|Off Presents… catwalk show is a go-to for international press and buyers looking for the next big thing.

The main exhibition has expanded to a mammoth 22 designers, with fourteen catwalk shows and three presentations, and has attracted exciting on-schedule talent like Gareth Pugh and Jasper Conran, looking for a ‘freer’ space to showcase their work. So who can we look forward to this year? Here’s our pick of the ones to watch…

Roksanda Ilincic

A/W 2010, illustrated by Abby Wright

After the massive success of her catwalk show last season, Roksanda Ilincic returns to show at On|Off. With three capsule collections with high-end high street chain Whistles under her belt, the London-born designer is most famous for her beautifully draped dresses in jewel tones. Roksanda loves to dress up, and her signature looks are dreamy flowing dresses in asymmetrical lengths, toughened up with exposed zips and raw hems. Her AW 2010 show, inspired by “Dark clouds, metal flowers and the Brontë sisters” was as romantic as ever – with draped dresses in jersey and rich plum tones.

Bryce Aime

A/W 2010, illustrated by Aniela Murphy

Adding some French flair to proceedings will be Bryce Aime, a Parisian born designer who honed his craft in London and opened his first store in Chelsea in November 2009. With an emphasis on modern, architectural design, A/W 2010 was a futuristic affair, with lots of clean lines, and black sculpted pieces paired with abstract prints – manipulated into headbands and skintight leggings. But for S/S 2011 it sounds like Bryce is looking east, with the “Beijing opera, Kabuki and the modern Far East Asia” as inspirations.

Pam Hogg

A/W 2010, illustrated by Stéphanie Thieullent

Pam Hogg is best known for her skintight cat suits (and with The Runaways just out, they would be just perfect) so expect a collection of rebellious body conscious looks from this designer with attitude. This woman knows how to dress the female form, and her A/W 2010 collection saw models parade around in sheer capelets, bodystockings and thigh high boots. One thing’s for sure, Hogg sure can fill a front row – Peaches Geldof, Jodie Harsh and Nick Cave were just some of the turnouts last season.

Aminaka Wilmont

A/W 2010, illustrated by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Japanese/Swedish/Danish duo Aminaka Wilmont are also a dab hand at draping – their last collection was a riot of ruched dresses in mini and maxi lengths, with some feminine florals and futuristic headwear thrown in for good measure. This season we can look forward to a collection inspired by “Sleep psyche and surrealism”, with the designers testing “new shapes and silhouettes…more intricate fabric manipulations… and an emphasis on couture hand-embroidery.”

Julian J Smith

A/W 2010, illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Our one to watch is new label Julian J Smith. After stints working with Erdem and Jonathan Saunders, this designer is “obsessed” with print and pattern, contrast and colour, creating vibrant dresses that have been snapped up by Victoria Beckham and Olivia Palermo. True to form, our favourites from his A/W 2010 collection were the modern dresses – skater skirts, mini shifts – in a blown up ikat print in mustard and cornflower blue. We’re excited about this ‘Prints Charming’ already…

Written by Lauren Smith on Tuesday September 14th, 2010 5:40 pm

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Aminaka Wilmont, ,Bryce Aime, ,catwalk, ,Erdem, ,florals, ,Gareth Pugh, ,Headwear, ,Jasper Conran, ,Jodie Harsh, ,Jonathan Saunders, ,Julian J Smith, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mark Fast, ,Nick Cave, ,onoff, ,Pam Hogg, ,paris, ,pattern, ,Peaches Geldof, ,preview, ,prints, ,Roksanda Ilincic, ,S/S 2011, ,Somerset House, ,Victoria Beckham

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Bryce Aime

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Christopher Beales has been working at the coal face of fashion for his entire career thus far, order in places as diverse as Voyage (the bizarre hippyluxe shop that you had to be a member of to even enter) and for Primark. He’s worked for Alexander McQueen and Matthew Williamson, as a costume designer for films such as Harry Potter and Robin Hood, and he’s dressed eccentric individuals such as Prince.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

On Friday evening I popped along to his A/W 2011 presentation When The Crystal Crack’d, which was conveniently held in the Rag Factory off Brick Lane – thereby ensuring a steady stream of inquisitive fashionistas who were no doubt heading home to their East London nests after a long first day of shows.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Arranged on a sculptural arrangement of silver mesh mannequins, themselves constructed by Christopher Beales, this was a stunning debut for LFW: low key but very clever in its presentation. When The Crystal Crack’d is a collection of cocktail and evening dresses that features the precision tailoring that Christopher has perfected over many years of pattern cutting for famous names. Based on lots of asymmetric shapes in pastel and metallic silk, my favourite bit of the collection was most definitely in the details. Unexpected bows held aloft draped fabric, metal spikes accentuated the subtle curve of an exposed back and knobbled wool traced the contours of a waist.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I look forward to seeing what next season will bring.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Christopher Beales has been working at the coal face of fashion for his entire career thus far, page in places as diverse as Voyage (the bizarre hippyluxe shop that you had to be a member of to even enter) and for Primark. He’s worked for Alexander McQueen and Matthew Williamson, sick as a costume designer for films such as Harry Potter and Robin Hood, website and he’s dressed eccentric individuals such as Prince.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I look forward to seeing what next season will bring.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson.

Bryce Aime: a man not afraid to experiment with scale, order volume and angular surfaces in clothing. I missed his show last season but I certainly enjoyed the theatricality of his Egyptian inspired collection a year ago.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

Unfortunately we were offered just the one ticket, information pills and a pretty duff seat at that. Given the lack of options I did very well to find a spot from which I could take decent photos of the models as they were propelled onto the catwalk, the LED screen at On/Off providing a futuristic slither of abstract background which worked especially well with the Bryce Aime aesthetic, always modern and angular.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

In shiny shiny fabrics combined with light absorbing wools and leather Militarium was a mix of body con stretch and uber slick tailoring. Unfortunately ink splurge stretchy leggings did not exactly work too well on the bony legs of the models, who sported a selection of serious camel toe action. Despite the very masculine up and down nature of the tailored jackets this felt like a collection that would have better suited a bodaciously curvy creature.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

Occasionally a model swerved onto the catwalk sporting a giant geometric head mask, but I was more taken by a fetching range of matching handbags that have been created in collaboration with bag designer Bracher Emden, whose handiwork I admired up close on the On/Off stands. SO WANT ONE. Particularly the seriously 80s cross body version.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Bryce Aime is known for ending on an outfit that would better suit an outre pop star rather than a normal member of the buying public. This time it was the headwear that he extended into an entire dress… sheeny shiny, an oily print glistening over its surface. A great great showpiece – and just the ticket to shift those very desirable handbags, which were undoubtedly my favourite part of this show.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday March 4th, 2011 12:52 pm

Categories ,Bracher Emden, ,Bryce Aime, ,Handbags, ,Militarium, ,onoff, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Sandra Contreras

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Bryce Aime

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I look forward to seeing what next season will bring.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011- Photography by Amelia Gregory

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Christopher Beales A/W 2011 by Hazel Castle.

Christopher Beales LFW A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I look forward to seeing what next season will bring.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Bryce Aime A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

Bryce Aime A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday March 4th, 2011 12:52 pm

Categories ,Bracher Emden, ,Bryce Aime, ,Handbags, ,Militarium, ,onoff, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Sandra Contreras

Amelia’s Magazine | LFW AW10/11: Women’s Wear Preview

Louse Goldin

The first designer tipped for great things later this week is Louise Goldin, buy cialis 40mg who last month was named as the winner of the illustrious Fashion Forward sponsorship scheme. Renowned for her innovative knitwear designs including; short figure enhancing knitted dresses, viagra dosage separates and swimwear, Louise often incorporates both unusual weaving techniques and futuristic patterns earning her the epithet ‘Queen of Knits’.

Whilst busily producing designs for her eponymous label Louise also finds to work on her esteemed collections for Topshop, with this spring seeing her debut a capsule footwear range of studded court shoes set to put the fierce back into fashion week.
Louise Goldin is showing at LFW at 3:15pm on Sunday 21st Feb in the Topshop space.

Bryce Aime

One of my favourite designers of recent seasons has to be Bryce Aime, who launched his self named label back in 2006. A designer who understands the difference between conceptual and commercial design, Bryce’s unique combination offers his customers sexy and understated garments with a twist of edgy and dramatic tailoring.

Bryce’s current SS10 collection channels 50’s Parisian Chic, combining his classic tailoring techniques with futuristic body con structures to great effect.
Bryce Aime is showing at LFW at 11:30am on Saturday 20th Feb as part of On|Off.

Georgia Hardinge

Another great designer looking to make her stamp on the British fashion industry next season is that of Georgia Hardinge. Best known for her figure enhancing dresses, each garment is specifically designed to ‘map the silhouette and curves of the female line’.
With a penchant for avant-garde tailoring Georgia produces highly controlled yet progressive pieces which successfully juxtapose the futurism of sculptural design with femininity, empowering the her legion of customers without being overtly sexual. Georgia is taking part in the LFW exhibition at Somerset House between 19-23rd February.

Belle Sauvage

A relatively new label, having emerged on the scene in 2008, Belle Sauvage is the brainchild of design duo Virginia Ferreira and Christian Neuman. Best known for their eye-popping digital prints and electric use of colour, this is one brand who look set to achieve the unachievable, having the fashion world eating out of the palm of their hands.

Fresh for SS10 the enigmatic duo have sampled block colouring in shocking scarlet and electric blues creating a contrast to the clashing primary hues of the geometric graphic prints and trademark lipstick detailing visible throughout. With a subtle nod to futurism referenced throughout the collection you’ll see conical shaped breasts, origami-inspired directional cuts across the hips and the occasional boxy shoulder.
Belle Sauvage is showing at LFW at 5:00pm on Saturday 20th Feb as part of On|Off.

Gemma Slack

The last designer I’m tipping for greatness at LFW is the one and only Gemma Slack. Having graduated last year, SS10 sees Gemma’s second post-graduate collection inspired by fetishised super heroines and metal girls. Never one to toe-the-line with conventional designs this season sees Gemma experimenting with leather, suede, aluminium and steel to produce a highly unique and futuristic collection.

Looking to empower women across the nation, Gemma’s collections tend to be bold, brash and above all strong. By using biomechanics to combine body and science, Gemma successfully replicates the ideology of transformation through costume.
Gemma Slack is showcasing a presentation at LFW between 5-8pm on Friday 19th Feb.

Written by Rachael Oku on Thursday February 18th, 2010 7:24 pm

Categories ,Belle Sauvage, ,BFC, ,Bryce Aime, ,Christian Neuman, ,Fashion-forward, ,Gemma Slack, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,lfw, ,LFW AW10/11: Women’s Wear Preview, ,Louse Goldin, ,topshop, ,Virginia Ferreira

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Bryce Aime, Romina Karamanea, Iris Van Herpen

Bryce Aime by Etiene Del Monte

Time flies past and before you know it fashion week is but a rainy memory from sometime back in February. Gosh, unhealthy it rained a lot didn’t it? And now look at all this lovely sunshine, visit web it just ain’t fair. So here, in no particular order, I offer a round up of the first few shows on Saturday 20th February, to be followed shortly by the remaining ones. From Saturday that is. I’m going slow here. Bear with me.

Bryce Aime by Etiene Del Monte

Bryce Aime named his show Egyptology but I thought it owed more to medieval battle wear. Or perhaps a re-envisioned Egypt more familiar to movie-goers and more specifically fans of The Mummy franchise, where historical accuracy tends to go the way of a believable plotline – I guess the one begets the other. The show featured strong shouldered shapes, big ruched hips, brusque we-mean-business banded hair and zipped leggings: perfect gear for heading straight into war, (maybe) worn over purple digital catsuits that might feasibly offer camouflage on some colourful alien shores. Though I’m not sure that brocade and draped lamme in coppery red metallics would offer much protection. The body armoured theme reached its logical conclusion in the amazing transformer-like sculpted shapes of the final three costumes, the only ones displayed with pride at the entrance to the on/off exhibition. Stunnin’ they were.

Bryce Aime by Etiene Del Monte

I caught up with Bryce briefly over at Somerset House later in the week, where he fidgeted nervously as if either a) desperate for a cigarette or b) desperate to get away from me. In a thick Parisian accent he described how he originally came over here to work in bars and restaurants in 1998, before deciding he wanted to study fine art. But he didn’t reckon there would be any money in it, so instead he did fashion at Central St. Martins and graduated in 2005.

The Romina Karamanea queue – I was bored alright. I quite like the lady with a ghost leg.

With a biting cold wind whistling down New Oxford Street we waited in a long snaking queue, guaranteed to irritate the casual Saturday shoppers, to see the Romina Karamanea show in the Runway Nightclub. I really couldn’t work out if this name was for real! Is it? Anyone? We were eventually guided into a cramped venue with early-comers already perched on banquettes, only to be irritated as rows of people coalesced in front of them.

The Romina Karamanea show in the Runway Nightclub.

Here I had my first sighting of baby-leg woman, a young scenester with artfully arranged fashion-forward frizzed out asymmetric hair and tight plaits (and mulitple baby doll legs dangling off every her). Doing that usual thing of looking moody when asked to pose for a photo “what, me? really? dressed like this? quelle surprise!”, she then refused all requests to sit down so that the people behind her could see the show. I mean, c’mon now, how could she? Honestly people, she had some serious extracurricular cardboard hips going on there. Be fair now.

Baby-leg Girl (and sidekick)

Finally the models began to step slowly down the runway, pausing to pose dramatically below the lights and dangling crystals. It was dramatic fo’ sure but because most of the clothing was black leather and it was dark it was incredibly hard to make out the clothes. My notes read: draped leather, cutouts, tailoring, hoods, bell shapes, spiky ankle boots: the overall impression was severe. Not really my thing. Lighten up I say!

Romina Karamanea. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Romina Karamanea by Rachel De Ste. Croix

A Romina Karamanea hairdo – snakey plaits a-go-go. Love it.

Romina Karamanea by Rachel De Ste. Croix

Next stop, I found myself sitting next to stylist Tamara Cincik at the Iris Van Herpen show over in the Freemasons’ Hall. As we waited for the show to begin we gossiped about mutual friends and she commented on what an unfortunate name this designer has. Indeed. But she has trained with Alexander McQueen (god rest his soul) and so has a fabulous pedigree.

Iris Van Herpen by Kelly Smith

Now I am going to feel a little compromised saying this, but I absolutely loved this collection. Iris specialises in cutout leather sculptures that remind me of shimmering sea creatures, christmas trees (in a good way), otherworldly goddesses. There was lots of creamy flesh tones teamed once again with coppery metallics, curling and winding into utterly gorgeous concoctions. But it was also all leather. And whilst I will happily wear leather shoes because I think they’re pretty necessary for practicality and comfort, I am not sure how I feel about a clothing collection that is so reliant on an animal product, even one that is less obviously cruel and harmful than fur. Less obvious being the operative word. I feel a little more research coming on shortly… watch this space.

Iris Van Herpen. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday March 3rd, 2010 12:49 pm

Categories ,Baby-leg girl, ,Bryce Aime, ,catwalk, ,Crystals, ,Etiene Del Monte, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Iris Van Herpen, ,Kelly Smith, ,leather, ,metallics, ,onoff, ,Rachel De Ste. Croix, ,Romina Karamanea

Amelia’s Magazine | 10 eco designers to watch out for in SS10: Part Two

Becky Barnicoat works as the commissioning editor on the Guardian Weekend magazine, more about but is also a cartoonist and currently works on a new comic about a musical bear – you can see a couple of sketches from it on her blog.

She’s always drawn, approved and when she was at school I did a whole English project (the title was ‘My future career’) in comic book form. She got a D- and a detention for it. One could say that was kind of the theme of things – most authority figures think cartoons are for babies. “I wish I could have shown them Maus so they could see how wrong they were, link but I didn’t know it existed back then” Becky says.

She started the blog Come in, Everyone is here already a couple of years ago and since then has started drawing for various people – including Le Cool magazine, Harry Hill and Five Dials. She was on the panel at the Salem Brownstone event at Comica this year, and last year drew the ‘Bowie and Bowie’ comic strip for Comica PoCom – which was on the wall in the ICA.

She is an enterprising gal as she also sporadically self-publishes a zine called Everyone Is Here Already.

Valerie Pezeron: What is the inspiration behind your work? Did you use visual references doing your faces?

Photograph Becky Barnicoat© Valerie Pezeron

Becky Barnicoat: Actually, that particular page all came from my head. It’s probably what I have always done from when I was a kid sitting in lessons, just drawing faces and caricatures of my teachers, that was quite a big thing. One of them was quite a nice woman, but she had an odd-looking face and I drew an awful caricature of her. She found my notebook and she looked really hurt, that was awful!

Photograph Becky Barnicoat© Valerie Pezeron

VP: Was it the lady who sent you to detention?
BB: She wasn’t one of the bad teachers but one of the good ones. It’s just that she looked a little bit like a guinea pig. But I won’t say anymore because she might read this! So this what I have always done; I just did “Faces” from my head, I find it really fun. I love the possibility of how ugly something could be but I don’t find that disgusting: I love weird faces so much and sometimes I see people on the street and their faces are just bizarre. The odder the shape the better it is.

VP: I agree with you there are so many different characters out there, especially where you live, in Stoke Newington.
BB: Oh yes! I cycle to work and I see many faces I want to draw! The other day I was cycling through Newington green and I saw this woman crossing the road and she had so much of something on her face that her skin was almost reddy-orange. And I was thinking “My, she’s put a bit too much foundation on, it looks extraordinary” and I thought maybe the poor woman has some terrible skin condition. And she would be a wonderful drawing but not in a way that would be mocking her. I love it when people look unusual.

VP: So would it be fair to say it is people that draw you to being creative? It’s not about the blandness of objects…

BB: That’s probably true; I’m not very good with objects. Landscapes? Not so much. It’s never been my thing, which is actually now a problem. I can get my pen going on a person or an animal but I have to put them somewhere and perspective is tricky.

VP: Don’t downplay your abilities!BB: (Laughter) So this is one side of what I am interested in. These were people who were on the Internet, and I drew them in on style…

VP: Glad you bring that up. I have noticed you don’t have one particular style.

BB: No, Definitely not!

VP: Is it on purpose or did you try to develop one or you don’t care that much?

BB: Good question as I think about it a lot. I definitely don’t try not to have one style. I just can’t imagine myself committing to just one style; I’d really miss too much the other style.

VP: So do you apply one style to one specific subject?

BB: Yeah, I suppose that is it, but it’s not that conscious. It just happens. I think of an idea and it’s immediately obvious to me what style should be for that.

VP: I see, very interestingly, you use all kinds of medium, inks, pen and washes, watercolour…

BB: It’s not premeditated when I use, and I love to use pen and ink. And I use this medium mostly.

VP: Tell us about the fanzine. When did you start it?

BB: That was a project a comic book artist friend of mine called Tom and I started. Just like me, he has a full-time job. We both want to be comic book artists and we decided we should do a comic book. A friend of mine who used to work in a bookshop called Persephone proposed we do a comic book evening; it will be in two months, you both work on the comic book and then we can sell it in the shop with drinks and music and we invite people along. They were ALL of our friends, there weren’t any strangers there at all!

VP: How many people?

BB: It was quite full actually…all of my family, friends of friends! I had about 50 copies of my magazine and they all sold! But another project came up at the same time and I had to really rush it!

VP: So this is issue 1 and issue 2 is planned for later? When did you do this one?

BB: That was earlier this year, sort of June / July.

VP: How often would you see yourself doing this fanzine?

BB: I’d like to do them much more often than I do but with my full time job, it’s not really that straightforward. Wake up every morning at 6.30 am, draw for an hour and then go work full-time at the office. I’d like to do it much more often. What Tom and me are going to do in the next couple of weeks is a 12-hour comic and whatever comes out of that will probably be issue 2. It will be much messier, scruffier and perhaps not make much sense!

VP: So I’m really interested to know about your journey? Did you go to university and study journalism?

BB: I didn’t, no, not for journalism. I went to an all-girls school in Barnes and then to Wimbledon Art College for foundation. It’s not that exciting, I was shocked at how crap it is. Everyone said “this is one of the best art schools” but it was awful! I stayed and I just about scraped a pass. Some of the people who I thought were the best there got fails because they just didn’t care. They were vicious about your actual work: “This is fine”, looking at someone’s beautiful drawings “but where is your reflective notebook and diary…sorry but that is part of your course requirements. If you don’t have those then we can’t pass you. Some of the students were part of that course in the 1st place because they are dyslexics, they didn’t want to write, and that’s why they are artists! It’s just insane. Wimbledon wanted everyone to be totally institutionalised, do their 9 to 5… The people whose work was the least inspiring but came in every day got the best grades. They were the stars of the year- the work was not great but they got lads of it!

VP: Woody Allen said a big part of success is showing up. It’s one of my favorite quotes and I think about it often.

BB: It’s so true! There were these brilliant dysfunctional characters with amazing imaginations and absolutely raw talent…you should allow them to thrive and allowing people work in the way that they naturally do because that is going to produce the best work. I hated doing the foundation. I really liked the idea of going to art school and part of me regrets it now; I don’t regret the choice I made because I had a brilliant time going to Leeds reading English Literature. Before that, I had a lot of pressure from everybody; I went to an all-girls private school all through my secondary school and all they were interested in was academia. They didn’t care about you wanting to be an artist; they just thought that was pathetic, they hated me. I’d say I want to be a cartoonist when I am older, and they’d go “Come again?” I always wanted to be a cartoonist since I was about 5. And then I ended up doing English, what was I thinking!

VP: I think it actually ties in, as it’s very close. I call what I do visual journalism or… cartoonist?

BB: Oh, but you’re not allowed to say cartoonist! We are visual communicators or sequential artists.

VP: So you knew that young! I remember doing my 1st graphic novel at 7.

BB: But in France, they have a much stronger culture of comics.

VP: That is true if you come from the right background. My family did not have a clue and I had to come here to explore all that was possible…

BB: I feel exactly the same. I did not even know people did comic books until I was maybe in my 2nd and 3rd year at university. I was in Cornwall on a holiday with my family and I was getting the train back to London. We went into Waterstones as I wanted to buy a book for the train. I noticed this really colorful cartoon and I picked up this book and it was Daniel Clowes “20th Century Eight Ball”. I thought grown-ups didn’t do cartoons, I had nor idea! Some of his pictures are so grotesque and disgusting; then I realised some of them were just about people chatting over coffee and having existential conversations.

VP: It’s very close to what you do, isn’t it? It’s definitely inspired you?

BB: Oh yeah, oh god, completely! I picked up this thing and it was a revelation! I recall thinking I can’t believe this thing is real; I can’t wait to read it. I was laughing so much while reading it on my way back on the train. Then I read this comic strip called “Art School Confidential”. You have to read it if you did not have a good time at art college. It’s so fun, it’s just the best, it’s perfect, and it’s exactly my experience of Art College! And then I realised other people were like me, they wanted to be a cartoonist and everyone at art school told them they were fools. You have to read it, it’s very good, it’s a collection of a lot his fanzines. It’s a satirical expose of his time at art school with a lot of people who are very pretentious. It seems amazing now that I didn’t know that he existed. I always associated comics with either superheroes, for boys or the dirty and sexy stuff like Vizz. Part of me wishes I could really love Vizz but I am put off every time I read it. “Yeah, right, woman with massive boobs naked in some joke…” it’s really basic toilet humour!

VP: We need more women graphic novelists!

BB: I agree. From those books, I discovered a whole world of cartoonists in America. It’s massive over there!

VP: What do you think of the UK comic book industry?

BB: I don’t think it even exists. There is not even a publisher that has an interest in it, really. Jonathan Cape do a few but they mainly bring American ones over. They just publish so very few British people. I don’t feel there is anyone really looking for it. So everyone over here is getting obsessed with Daniel Clowes, Charles Burnes and Chris Ware. They’re just about discovering people that, if you don’t know who they are, you must be living in Britain.

VP: Have you had a look at what’s going on in Europe?

BB: I did take a look. I went over to Portugal, in Lisbon to write a feature on the arts scene there for the Guardian. I met up with a load of comic book artists and illustrators such as Andre Lemos, Joao-Maio Pinto, Filipe Abranches. It was fantastic! They had that wonderful European attitude: “We grew up with comic books, it’s part of our culture”. I said I only discovered “Strip Burger” when I was 21. They said “Strip Burger, we knew about that when we were only 2!”

Becky’s office at home © Becky Barnicoat

VP: That’s true with French people too. When you went to Comica festival, did you feel that something was about to take off? I know Paul Gravett feels very religiously that it is happening!

BB: Ah, Paul! Paul is incredible and without him, it would be…he is basically the comic book scene now. It all kind of stems from him, it is fantastic to have him there like this uncle who advises all those artists who didn’t’ think they could do this. He is the catalyst. Since I have discovered that, I’ve realised there is this world of people who want to do this, who love it, who know about all these artists. And they’re really frustrated in this country because it’s not really understood. People are quite illiterate, I think, regarding comics. But I have met loads of people now through Comica and other things. I just discovered this guy called Dash Shaw; his first book is about a thousand pages, called “Bottomless Belly Button”, Fantagraphics. He did this living in a tiny bedroom; he said he was so poor. I asked him how he made it as a comic book artist, how he paid his rent. He said, “ When I left college, I went and rented a tiny, tiny room for $200 a month and I worked part-time as a life model and I drew every second of every day. And he said it took him years, he must have drawn over a thousand pages of comics until anything happened. And he presented a manuscript to a big editor at a comics’ fair; they took him on and published it immediately. It’s a fairytale.

VP: Well, it is. You have to have some kind of break otherwise…

BB: Otherwise you are plugging away in the bedroom!

Tune-in next week for Part 2 of the interview!

Becky Barnicoat works as the commissioning editor on the Guardian Weekend magazine, sildenafil but is also a cartoonist and currently works on a new comic about a musical bear – you can see a couple of sketches from it on her blog.

She’s always drawn, unhealthy and when she was at school I did a whole English project (the title was ‘My future career’) in comic book form. She got a D- and a detention for it. One could say that was kind of the theme of things – most authority figures think cartoons are for babies. “I wish I could have shown them Maus so they could see how wrong they were, but I didn’t know it existed back then” Becky says.