Amelia’s Magazine | Tata Naka: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Presentation Review

Tata-Naka S/S 2013 by Jamie Wignall
Tata Naka S/S 2013 by Jamie Wignall.

I always look forward to the Tata Naka presentation and this season was no exception: this time the twin sisters had chosen to direct their models posed as if at the end of a diving platform against a skyline of palm trees. It was a clever piece of set design that suited their slightly retro style, all 80s power hair and nipped in waists. When I arrived they were shooting a range of glossy purple dresses on offer for S/S 2013. Centre stage a beautiful hourglass silk dress featured dramatic cut outs around the shoulders and hemline. Floral offerings flanked a bold placement print cutout dress, the ginger hair of a painted girl placed at hip level. For a more casual look the same image was applied to a swimming costume, worn with very high hot pants.

Tata Naka SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2013, photography by Amelia Gregory.

I only stayed at the ‘pool party’ presentation long enough to get a shot of this particular look, but a glance at a set of images on Vogue tells me that this collection was notable for its subtlety – cream and mint separates for daytime and jewel block colours for night providing a commercial counterpoint to the colourful clashing ditsy prints and painted life size faces: eye catching in house prints that the Tata Naka girls are known and loved for. It all worked brilliantly, as always.

Categories ,80s, ,Claire Kearns, ,cutout, ,Jamie Wignall, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Portico Rooms, ,prints, ,S/S 2013, ,Somerset House, ,Tata Naka, ,vogue

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Amelia’s Magazine | Olivia Rubin collaborates with OPI to create her own shatter nail lacquer set

OPI shatter nail polish collaboration with Olivia Rubin by Novemto Komo
OPI shatter nail polish collaboration with Olivia Rubin by Novemto Komo.

I do like a press day where you can get your hair and nails done, price so despite my lack of time I decided to swing by South Molton Street yesterday to visit Olivia Rubin, who was greeting all visitors personally – what a nice touch. No high falutin’ designer here, plus she was very good about my review of her A/W 2011 catwalk show, which mainly banged on about the high celebrity quotient.

Olivia Rubin at her A/W 2011 press day
Olivia Rubin at her A/W 2011 press day.

Usually there is a massive queue for free grooming but I chanced upon a lull having missed, by mere minutes, a whirlwind visit from The Only Way Is Essex pop group Lola. Damn. They were the ones who distracted me at her A/W 2011 catwalk show. Actually, maybe it’s a good thing I missed them.

Olivia Rubin by Liam Mcmahon
Olivia Rubin by Liam Mcmahon.

Olivia Rubin Cute as a Cupcakes. Of course.
Olivia Rubin bespoke cupcakes by Cute as a Cupcakes. Always the cupcakes… but I have to admit these really were a stunning compliment to her new collection.

Anyway, I decided to grab the opportunity to try out the new OPI shatter collection produced in collaboration with Olivia Rubin and for sale in exclusive colour combinations at ASOS and other stores soon. It’s a great idea because Olivia is known for her bold use of animal prints and this looks a bit like a leopard print from afar.

Olivia Rubin by Liam Mcmahon
Olivia Rubin by Liam Mcmahon.

Olivia Rubin shatter nail polish collaboration with OPI
Olivia Rubin shatter nail polish collaboration with OPI. Nice bright colours as always.

Did you know that OPI takes its name from the dental company whence the first nail products sprang from? Back in the early 1980s George Schaeffer took over a dental supply business called Odontorium Products Inc, and quickly realised the potential for transferring the technology behind acrylic dentures into the crafting of false nails. Not very sexy eh? But that’s the way it rolls in the beauty industry. Happily, OPI do not test on animals.

Olivia Rubin OPI shatter polish
Olivia Rubin’s elegant nails.

Olivia Rubin OPI shatter polish
Hmmmm, my not very elegant hands.

Since then they’ve built a huge nail brand, famed for its brightly coloured nail polishes with fun names. OPI technicians have been helping out backstage at various fashion shows during LFW, and they take care of famous pop personalities such as Katy Perry and Alexandra Burke, who have their very own nail technicians on hand at all times, except, that is, when they are sorting out my stubby sausage hands. My nails were done by Alexandra Burke‘s *actual* nail technician, get in. She won the X Factor a few years back in case you were wondering.

Olivia Rubin OPI shatter polish
Here’s a pic of my paws: the effect is really most captivating. I can’t stop looking at them!

The shatter nail polish is apparently all the rage, though in my backward way I had never heard of it and sat there transfixed as Alexandra’s right hand man painted the second coat onto my nails and it mysteriously cracked in front of my eyes: the chemicals reacting to the first coat below. After that he used a very cunning product called Drip Dry Lacquer Drying Drops, which drops on top to dry nails almost instantly. Clever, these dentist types. The shatter nail lacquer comes in black and silver to create fun effects on top of other colours.

Olivia Rubin-Rush Hair Salon Isobel
Lovely hair stylist from the Rush Hair Salon.

After that I decided to get my hair blow-dried by a lovely girl called Isobel from Rush Hair salon: love that vintage dress she’s wearing. I do wish that I could make my frizzy hair look so sleek and glossy myself, but I have to admit that it’s way more relaxing to get someone else to do it for me!

Olivia Rubin-A/W 2011
Olivia Rubin-A/W 2011
Olivia Rubin-A/W 2011
Olivia Rubin-A/W 2011

It was really nice to see the new Olivia Rubin collection up close, to feel the satin silks and admire the screen prints which she does herself. I particularly liked the fine gauge knit jumpers featuring Olivia’s signature brick and speech bubble ‘prints’ and she’s also done some lovely shoes in collaboration with Dune.

Olivia Rubin-A/W 2011

Keep an eye on this one because she’s a savvy business lady, and for sweet idiosyncratic dresses and tops she’s right on track: Olivia Rubin is now stocked in 50 stores across the UK and globally.

YouTube Preview Image
Do the shatter polish y’all.

Olivia will be finishing off the next collection over Easter, and her OPI collaboration should be available soon. I look forward to trying out Overexposed in South Beach, which joins Suzi Loves Cowboys and Wing It! from LFW goody bags. Now I’ve just got to find time to paint my nails more often myself.

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Acrylic, ,Alexandra Burke, ,ASOS, ,Beauty, ,Blow Dry, ,Celebrity, ,cupcakes, ,Cute as a Cupcake, ,Drip Dry Lacquer Drying Drops, ,Dune, ,Easter, ,George Schaeffer, ,Katy Perry, ,knitwear, ,lfw, ,Liam McMahon, ,Lola, ,Nail Lacquer, ,Nail Polish, ,Nails, ,Novemto Komo, ,Odontorium Products Inc, ,Olivia Rubin, ,OPI, ,Overexposed in South Beach, ,prints, ,RUSH Hair, ,Shatter Nail Lacquer, ,Shatter Nail Polish, ,South Molton Street, ,Suzi Loves Cowboys, ,The Only Way is Essex, ,TOWIE, ,Wing It!

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Amelia’s Magazine | R/H Label, fashion design from Finland: meet Hanna Riiheläinen and Emilia Hernesniemi

Hanna Riiheläinen and Emilia Hernesniemi RH Label
Hanna Riiheläinen and Emilia Hernesniemi of R/H Label.

I met Hanna Riiheläinen and Emilia Hernesniemi of R/H Label on my trip to Moscow, click where they came by train (very jealous) to pitch their brand to a panel of experts for feedback, website of which *ahem* I was one. The girls studied together for six years at the University of Art & Design Helsinki, and have forged a strong partnership which made them a delight to hang out with during my stay in Russia and I was utterly charmed by their playful style, for which they are the best ambassadors. In the first of two blog posts here’s a summary of what R/H Label are up to.

RH Label by Fawn Carr
RH Label by Fawn Carr.

R/H Label was named for a combination of the girls’ surnames, and was founded only last June in Helsinki after being in the planning for way longer, both girls having studied and worked in fashion at home and abroad after graduation – I actually met Emilia a few years ago when I borrowed clothes from Agency V, where she worked as a PR. Small world eh? They took this time in the industry to learn about the commercial sides of the business and analysed what they could do best when starting their own label: clever girls. It is no surprise that their designs perfectly encapsulate the Agency V aesthetic; playful, colourful, printed. All good things in my book!

RH Label by June Chanpoomidole
RH Label by June Chanpoomidole.

Whilst the Finnish design scene is strong on the international stage, the fashion scene is something new, and so for them indigenous inspiration comes from the likes of well known furniture designers Alvar Aalto and textiles supremo Marimekko who mainly produces textiles for the home. IVANNAhelsinki is one of the only major Finnish fashion designers to have a profile abroad, as well as Laitinen menswear which has a high profile in Milan and Paris.

Hanna Riiheläinen of R/H Label in Moscow
Hanna Riiheläinen of R/H Label in Moscow.

But now is an exciting time because there is a new generation of creatives coming through. Ones to check out include fashion photographer Susanna Majuri and Helsinki based illustrator Laura Laine. Emilia and Hanna work with creatives across lots of disciplines and are inspired by Finland’s location between the east and west – a place where different visual aesthetics easily meet and mingle. Functional solutions come over from Sweden, but there is plenty of rich decorative detail to play with from the eastern side.

RH Label SS 2011 blue dressRH Label SS 2011 jacket leggings dahlia
R/H Label S/S 2011.

RH Label SS 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou
R/H Label SS 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou.

S/S 2011 was R/H Label’s first commercial collection, inspired by Dolly Parton, Mickey Mouse, Black Magic and the Nordic Summer Sky. You don’t get much more fun than that! It features a mix of local reindeer leather and bamboo jersey and all the bespoke prints were digitally printed onto silk – they like to create every element of the collection. I particularly love the purple sky and dotty dahlia prints, and was thoroughly enamoured of their ceramic eyeball necklace, created in collaboration with a local ceramics studio.

RH Label AW 2011
R/H Label A/W 2011.

RH Label AW 2011 by Michalis ChristodoulouRH Label AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou
R/H Label AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou.

For A/W 2011 they were inspired by Dragons, Mountains, Acrobats and Vagabonds. Another rich inspirational mash up! Role models that helped to inspire the collection included the strong character of Stieg Larsson’s Lisbeth Salander, and Finnish author Sofi Oksanen. Lots of black is offset again with bright prints in louche easily wearable shapes.

RH Label AW 2011 coat
R/H Label A/W 2011

Production is mainly done in Tallinn, Estonia which is 80km away, but the reindeer bags are made in Helsinki and they are keen to do more with local materials. Interest in the collection has been quick and enthusiastic and as well as stocking at home in Finland they already have stockists in Berlin, Vienna and New York. Naturally Agency V has been looking after press, which is also going pretty darn well for such a new label.

RH Label AW 2011 jumpsuit
R/H Label A/W 2011

Now they just need to figure out a way to grow the brand organically whilst retaining their creative control… it’s all about achieving that balance, which is why they came to Moscow for advice. In my next blog Hanna and Emilia answer a few questions. In the meantime take a browse around the R/H Label website and R/H Label online shop. Let’s hope they find stockists in the UK soon.

Emilia Hernesniemi RH Label
Emilia Hernesniemi of R/H Label talking to Michael Salac of Blow PR.

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Acrobats, ,Agency V, ,Alvar Aalto, ,berlin, ,Black Magic, ,Blow PR, ,ceramic, ,colourful, ,Dolly Parton, ,Dragons, ,Emilia Hernesniemi, ,Estonia, ,Eyeball Necklace, ,Fawn Carr, ,finland, ,FInnish, ,Helsinki, ,IVANNAhelsinki, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Laitinen, ,Laura Laine, ,Lisbeth Salander, ,Marimekko, ,Michael Salac, ,Michalis Christodoulou, ,Mickey Mouse, ,Mountains, ,Nordic Summer Sky, ,pr, ,prints, ,R/H Label, ,Reindeer Leather, ,Riiheläinen, ,S/S 2011, ,Silk, ,Sofi Oksanen, ,Stieg Larsson, ,Susanna Majuri, ,Tallinn, ,University of Art & Design Helsinki, ,Vagabonds, ,Vienna, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Report: Basso & Brooke

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

In our pre- London Fashion Week interview with Cooperative Designs , illness stomach the design duo discussed the incredible presentations they produced for S/S 2010 (Bauhaus) and A/W 2010;

“With a presentation we have the opportunity to design the entire event, we try to encapsulate the feel of the collection as an real experience for our guests. This season we are showing at the Groucho Club, and we have some really exciting plans!”

These were the words of Annalisa Dunn and upon entering the packed out Groucho Club, it was the designers had produced something rather special. It was a scene straight from one of my favourite books, Evelyn Waugh’s satiric love affair with London’s upper classes: Vile Bodies (or Bright Young Things to give the book it’s film title).

Utilising the ever-so-shabby, but rather wonderful art deco setting of the Groucho Club, the set designed by David White encouraged the “good time” atmosphere that was infectious from the moment you walked in.

In the centre of the room alongside the live piano, the models were arranged as in a frieze so beloved of traditional painting. Holding their position, they laughed and smiled as cameras snapped Cooperative Designs’ celebrated structural and incredibly textural knitwear. This year saw the introduction of raffia and jersey into their material repertoire.

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

A Cooperative Designs presentation is a sought after event, by the time I had to leave, a one in one out policy had been implemented, as the upstairs room overflowed with admirers. The fantastic glasses adorning the models were made in collaboration with Alex Cunningham and the intriguing ready-for-the-beach wedges were in association with Flip Flop. As fitting such a special event many of the audience came dressed in previous seasons, making the clothes more covetable for the ease in which they are worn.

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Ever captivated by the fabrics and shapes used by Cooperative Designs, it was a delight to discuss their design process with Annalisa:

“Dorothee has more of a womenswear background then me, she has developed a process she calls Primary pattern cutting. Pieces are designed as flat graphic angular shapes then left to drape and distort on the body. This process particularly suits knitwear, as it has such great drape and stretch properties.”

A more apt title could not be found, for the presentation was titled Bollywood Babylon, which in turn was inspired by artist Kenneth Anger’s books; Hollywood Babylon 1 and 2 in which the writer records the debauchery of 1920′s Hollywood actors. This reviewer is particularly enamored with the art deco inspired print adorning the S/S 2011 collection, oh to join the easy revelry of this imagined film set created by Cooperative Designs!

Photographs by Amy Gwatkin

Illustration by Eugenia Tsimiklis

After pegging it down the strand, website like this I arrived at the BFC tent with less than 30 seconds to spare. My desperate dan demeanour must have won me brownie points somewhere as I was ushered into the catwalk seating area so fast my feet barely touched the floor. Expecting the Issa show to begin, no rx imagine my suprise when Basso and Brooke creations started to walk their way down the catwalk…there must have been some awful mistake?…yes, indeed there was Mr Matt Bramford (who must be reading his timetable upside down last night).

A 9am Sunday morning treat: great turnout (including model Amber Rose – front row), amazing prints and a seamless show. To be able to mix so many colours, prints, patterns and styles into pieces of clothing is a talent few can boast. I have never trained as a fashion designer but I imagine that there comes a time early in their lives, perhaps as a kid choosing between a pencil and a box of crayolas, when their speciality is set for life. In my view, all designers have not so much a signature look as a part of the DNA clothing they excel at: silhouette, colour, print, cut. Some designers can change the way we see the body – I’m thinking of Miuccia Prada –and some fill in the outlines of fashionable shapes with their own individual colour, pattern and texture.

Illustration by Eugenia Tsimiklis

Prints were the order of the day with a slight All Saints (edgy brand not 90s girlband) feel to some of the ones with italic scripting and antique maps running across. After reading the press release, it turns out that the writing is actually handwritten notes by Da Vinci, Tolstoy, Balzac and others in a nod to the non digital past. Digital prints are then sliced into the notes and maps, creating more dramatic, eclectic mixes.

Other prints included trompe l’oeil images of ruched fabrics, mainly used in larger panels on the back of dresses but occasionally inserted onto the front. I am personally a huge fan of print design (I was a colour-change felttip pen sort of kid), which I think often gets ignored in favour of more flashy, and by definition, flesh-revealing options (anyone designing an elaborately printed bikini has rather missed the point). There’s something depressing about an off-the-shelf pattern you end up seeing on clothes everywhere, from high street shops to market stalls. I want someone to have sat down and designed the images that appear on the surface of clothes with as much care and dedication as they did every other aspect.

Illustrated by June Chanpoomidole

Basso and Brooke’s S/S11 show didn’t pioneer any particular dress shape, although all their clothes look wearable: lots of skater-skirted party dresses, a collared blouse and skirt and filmy jumpsuitst. The skirts had great shape and movement to them, especially the shorter kicky ones; the dresses made use of clashing prints on the front and back and thought had also been put into matching shoes to each look. However, what they do to a tee is the print; everyone knows that when you go to their show you’ll get lovingly rendered prints galore. This also means subtle use of colour, and when the models took their turn all together, it added up to a handwritten, map inspired rainbow.

Photograph by Florence Massey

Some of the choices surprised me at first: leopard print? Hermes-scarf style illustrated floral squares? But because they were digitally chopped up with gold foil sections that seemed to creep over the garish parts, or set against a background of pearly grey silk, I think it worked. There is a trend now for mixing up complicated prints, which when it works, looks incredible. One good thing about animal print is that you can’t really beat nature for creating a pleasing whole and by sticking to the silvery sheen of water, brown and rusty orange of animals spots and mineral metallics, there’s a good chance an outfit will hang together, just like Basso and Brooke’s show.

Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

Categories ,Basso & Brooke SS 2011, ,BFC, ,BFC Tent, ,Digital Prints, ,fashion, ,Leopard Print, ,London Fashion Week, ,prints, ,Somerset House, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Womenswear Preview: On|Off


Charlie le Mindu A/W 2010, recipe for sale illustrated by Naomi Law

Cheeky Charlie le Mindu already had quite the reputation when he burst onto the scene in dramatic fashion a couple of years ago. As celebrity hairdresser to the stars, sildenafil he’d already produced a client list that included the likes of Florence Welsh, Uffie, Lady Gaga and Peaches. His first collection showed the makings of a designer with impact, with dramatic silhouettes, contrasting materials and eery influences. But it was his star performance in the Blow Presents… show for S/S 2009 that really grabbed the media’s attention. His collection, made from human hair and luxe materials, caused a stir in that way that radical fashion does and rendering row after row of fashionista breathless.


Charlie le Mindu, S/S 2010

But what would he do next? Surely you can’t keep on making bonkers frocks from hair, can you? Well, it turns out you can, and last season Charlie had us bouncing up and down with glee with his sexed-up religious collection – a more refined and sophisticated one that still managed to convey Charlie’s unique vision.

Church bells chimed and haunting cackles played, while androgynous models appeared one after the other sporting racy all-in-one lace numbers and crosses atop their heads or cocoon-like headpieces (see the video here).

I managed to catch up with Charlie for a (brief) chat to delve a bit more into the psyche of this weird and wonderful designer. I have to warn you, though – he doesn’t give much away. But in three days it’s time for collection number four – one the whole of fashion week’s attendees waits for with huge anticipation.


Charlie le Mindu S/S 2010, illustrated by Steph Parr

Hi Charlie! You’re quickly rising up the fashion ranks, what’s been the highlight of your journey so far?
I think the highlight for the moment is to have met new friends like Anna Trevelayn, who is totally on the same wavelength as me in terms of ideas.

What was the inspiration behind your eery A/W 2010 collection?
It was based on religion and I wanted to show that all religion could be very sexy and dirty at the same time.

What is it about hair that fascinates you so much?
I can do anything I want to do with it. It’s a perfect match of fabrics for me, and it’s the texture I’ve worked with since I was 13!

Of all your celebrity hair clients, who have been the best (or worst) to work with?!
The best one was Carolina Bambina from Kap Bambino and Peaches, because they are my best mates.


Charlie le Mindu, A/W 2010

A number of stylish celebrities have been seen wearing your work, from Gaga to Drew Barrymore. Who else would you like to dress?
I’d love to dress Cher, so much. She is the queen of plastic surgery! She is never gonna die, so I could work with her forever!

How are you preparing for this coming fashion week? Are you excited? Nervous?
I’m very excited – I think it’s going to be my dirtiest show so far!!!

You’re part of the latest breed of London fashion designers who push the boundaries in that unique, raw way. How do you think London fashion compares to the other bigger cities?
I don’t think I push the boundaries, because if I did push it, people wouldn’t come to see my show! I just try to make things fun. And sexy. London fashion is fun, but it’s going to be more fun again in a few years time I think.

Do you find juggling haute coiffure and haute couture a challenge? Which do you prefer?
It’s the same for me, they work together.

What’s next for Charlie Le Mindu?
Maybe opening a shop…!


Charlie le Mindu A/W 2010, visit this illustrated by Naomi Law

Cheeky Charlie le Mindu already had quite the reputation when he burst onto the scene in dramatic fashion a couple of years ago. As celebrity hairdresser to the stars, try he’d already produced a client list that included the likes of Florence Welsh, about it Uffie, Lady Gaga and Peaches. His first collection showed the makings of a designer with impact, with dramatic silhouettes, contrasting materials and eery influences. But it was his star performance in the Blow Presents… show for S/S 2009 that really grabbed the media’s attention. His collection, made from human hair and luxe materials, caused a stir in that way that radical fashion does and rendering row after row of fashionista breathless.


Charlie le Mindu, S/S 2010

But what would he do next? Surely you can’t keep on making bonkers frocks from hair, can you? Well, it turns out you can, and last season Charlie had us bouncing up and down with glee with his sexed-up religious collection – a more refined and sophisticated one that still managed to convey Charlie’s unique vision.

Church bells chimed and haunting cackles played, while androgynous models appeared one after the other sporting racy all-in-one lace numbers and crosses atop their heads or cocoon-like headpieces (see the video here).

I managed to catch up with Charlie for a (brief) chat to delve a bit more into the psyche of this weird and wonderful designer. I have to warn you, though – he doesn’t give much away. But in three days it’s time for collection number four – one the whole of fashion week’s attendees waits for with huge anticipation.


Charlie le Mindu S/S 2010, illustrated by Steph Parr

Hi Charlie! You’re quickly rising up the fashion ranks, what’s been the highlight of your journey so far?
I think the highlight for the moment is to have met new friends like Anna Trevelayn, who is totally on the same wavelength as me in terms of ideas.

What was the inspiration behind your eery A/W 2010 collection?
It was based on religion and I wanted to show that all religion could be very sexy and dirty at the same time.

What is it about hair that fascinates you so much?
I can do anything I want to do with it. It’s a perfect match of fabrics for me, and it’s the texture I’ve worked with since I was 13!

Of all your celebrity hair clients, who have been the best (or worst) to work with?!
The best one was Carolina Bambina from Kap Bambino and Peaches, because they are my best mates.


Charlie le Mindu, A/W 2010

A number of stylish celebrities have been seen wearing your work, from Gaga to Drew Barrymore. Who else would you like to dress?
I’d love to dress Cher, so much. She is the queen of plastic surgery! She is never gonna die, so I could work with her forever!

How are you preparing for this coming fashion week? Are you excited? Nervous?
I’m very excited – I think it’s going to be my dirtiest show so far!!!

You’re part of the latest breed of London fashion designers who push the boundaries in that unique, raw way. How do you think London fashion compares to the other bigger cities?
I don’t think I push the boundaries, because if I did push it, people wouldn’t come to see my show! I just try to make things fun. And sexy. London fashion is fun, but it’s going to be more fun again in a few years time I think.

Do you find juggling haute coiffure and haute couture a challenge? Which do you prefer?
It’s the same for me, they work together.

What’s next for Charlie Le Mindu?
Maybe opening a shop…!


Charlie le Mindu A/W 2010, page illustrated by Naomi Law

Cheeky Charlie le Mindu already had quite the reputation when he burst onto the scene in dramatic fashion a couple of years ago. As celebrity hairdresser to the stars, he’d already produced a client list that included the likes of Florence Welsh, Uffie, Lady Gaga and Peaches. His first collection showed the makings of a designer with impact, with dramatic silhouettes, contrasting materials and eery influences. But it was his star performance in the Blow Presents… show for S/S 2009 that really grabbed the media’s attention. His collection, made from human hair and luxe materials, caused a stir in that way that radical fashion does and rendering row after row of fashionista breathless.


Charlie le Mindu, S/S 2010

But what would he do next? Surely you can’t keep on making bonkers frocks from hair, can you? Well, it turns out you can, and last season Charlie had us bouncing up and down with glee with his sexed-up religious collection – a more refined and sophisticated one that still managed to convey Charlie’s unique vision.

Church bells chimed and haunting cackles played, while androgynous models appeared one after the other sporting racy all-in-one lace numbers and crucifixes atop their heads or cocoon-like headpieces (see the video here).

I managed to catch up with Charlie for a (brief) chat to delve a bit more into the psyche of this weird and wonderful designer. I have to warn you, though – he doesn’t give much away. But in three days it’s time for collection number four – one the whole of fashion week’s attendees waits for with huge anticipation.


Charlie le Mindu S/S 2010, illustrated by Steph Parr

Hi Charlie! You’re quickly rising up the fashion ranks, what’s been the highlight of your journey so far?
I think the highlight for the moment is to have met new friends like Anna Trevelayn, who is totally on the same wavelength as me in terms of ideas.

What was the inspiration behind your eery A/W 2010 collection?
It was based on religion and I wanted to show that all religion could be very sexy and dirty at the same time.

What is it about hair that fascinates you so much?
I can do anything I want to do with it. It’s a perfect match of fabrics for me, and it’s the texture I’ve worked with since I was 13!

Of all your celebrity hair clients, who have been the best (or worst) to work with?!
The best one was Carolina Bambina from Kap Bambino and Peaches, because they are my best mates.


Charlie le Mindu, A/W 2010

A number of stylish celebrities have been seen wearing your work, from Gaga to Drew Barrymore. Who else would you like to dress?
I’d love to dress Cher, so much. She is the queen of plastic surgery! She is never gonna die, so I could work with her forever!

How are you preparing for this coming fashion week? Are you excited? Nervous?
I’m very excited – I think it’s going to be my dirtiest show so far!!!

You’re part of the latest breed of London fashion designers who push the boundaries in that unique, raw way. How do you think London fashion compares to the other bigger cities?
I don’t think I push the boundaries, because if I did push it, people wouldn’t come to see my show! I just try to make things fun. And sexy. London fashion is fun, but it’s going to be more fun again in a few years time I think.

Do you find juggling haute coiffure and haute couture a challenge? Which do you prefer?
It’s the same for me, they work together.

What’s next for Charlie Le Mindu?
Maybe opening a shop…!


Aminaka Wilmont A/W 2010, viagra illustrated by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

London Fashion Week is renowned for showcasing up and coming design talent – and nowhere is more uniquely ‘London’ than On|Off. Now in it’s twelfth season, this is an independent fashion showcase away from the major players at Somerset House.

Helping launch the careers of off-schedule designers like Mark Fast, the On|Off Presents…  catwalk show is a go-to for international press and buyers looking for the next big thing.

The main exhibition has expanded to a mammoth 22 designers, with fourteen catwalk shows and three presentations, and has attracted exciting on-schedule talent like Gareth Pugh and Jasper Conran, looking for a ‘freer’ space to showcase their work. So who can we look forward to this year? Here’s our pick of the ones to watch…

Roksanda Ilincic

A/W 2010, illustrated by Abby Wright

After the massive success of her catwalk show last season, Roksanda Ilincic returns to show at On|Off. With three capsule collections with high-end high street chain Whistles under her belt, the London-born designer is most famous for her beautifully draped dresses in jewel tones. Roksanda loves to dress up, and her signature looks are dreamy flowing dresses in asymmetrical lengths, toughened up with exposed zips and raw hems. Her AW 2010 show, inspired by “Dark clouds, metal flowers and the Brontë sisters” was as romantic as ever – with draped dresses in jersey and rich plum tones.

Bryce Aime

A/W 2010, illustrated by Aniela Murphy

Adding some French flair to proceedings will be Bryce Aime, a Parisian born designer who honed his craft in London and opened his first store in Chelsea in November 2009. With an emphasis on modern, architectural design, A/W 2010 was a futuristic affair, with lots of clean lines, and black sculpted pieces paired with abstract prints – manipulated into headbands and skintight leggings. But for S/S 2011 it sounds like Bryce is looking east, with the “Beijing opera, Kabuki and the modern Far East Asia” as inspirations.  

Pam Hogg

A/W 2010, illustrated by Stéphanie Thieullent

Pam Hogg is best known for her skintight cat suits (and with The Runaways just out, they would be just perfect) so expect a collection of rebellious body conscious looks from this designer with attitude. This woman knows how to dress the female form, and her A/W 2010 collection saw models parade around in sheer capelets, bodystockings and thigh high boots. One thing’s for sure, Hogg sure can fill a front row – Peaches Geldof, Jodie Harsh and Nick Cave were just some of the turnouts last season.  

Aminaka Wilmont

A/W 2010, illustrated by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Japanese/Swedish/Danish duo Aminaka Wilmont are also a dab hand at draping – their last collection was a riot of ruched dresses in mini and maxi lengths, with some feminine florals and futuristic headwear thrown in for good measure. This season we can look forward to a collection inspired by “Sleep psyche and surrealism”, with the designers testing “new shapes and silhouettes…more intricate fabric manipulations… and an emphasis on couture hand-embroidery.”

Julian J Smith

A/W 2010, illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Our one to watch is new label Julian J Smith. After stints working with Erdem and Jonathan Saunders, this designer is “obsessed” with print and pattern, contrast and colour, creating vibrant dresses that have been snapped up by Victoria Beckham and Olivia Palermo. True to form, our favourites from his A/W 2010 collection were the modern dresses – skater skirts, mini shifts – in a blown up ikat print in mustard and cornflower blue. We’re excited about this ‘Prints Charming’ already… 

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Aminaka Wilmont, ,Bryce Aime, ,catwalk, ,Erdem, ,florals, ,Gareth Pugh, ,Headwear, ,Jasper Conran, ,Jodie Harsh, ,Jonathan Saunders, ,Julian J Smith, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mark Fast, ,Nick Cave, ,onoff, ,Pam Hogg, ,paris, ,pattern, ,Peaches Geldof, ,preview, ,prints, ,Roksanda Ilincic, ,S/S 2011, ,Somerset House, ,Victoria Beckham

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Mode, Carlotta Actis Barone

Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba.

It was the huge and elaborate headdresses by Rachel Galley that grabbed our immediate attention as the first models traversed the catwalk, visit their steady heads bearing wide concoctions of twirling metal, flowers and swinging tassels for Carlotta Actis Barone‘s S/S 2012 commentary ‘on the stolen liberty and beauty associated with prostitution.’

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Carlotta Actis Barone is one of three designers who are being mentored by Fashion Mode, a mysterious entity that provides direction and support in everything from design to business management and marketing.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas.

The new collection was inspired by a cross pollination of cultural ideas: Victorian brothels and French boudoir style from the turn of the last century contrasted with the high class prostitution and honour traditionally associated with being a Geisha.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 by t. reidy
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by t.reidy.

Swishing lilac and cream dresses with roped detailing around the bust and waist signified the imprisonment of prostitution, whilst loosely draped pencil skirts and lingerie-styled tunics suggested a more playful air of seduction, accessorised with wide patterned kimono inspired waist wraps.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Orchid hair accessories and china doll make-up added to the air of naive idolisation of feminine beauty, but the clash of styles did not always work. Wrinkled tights patterned with stripes of letters (a signature of Barone) were a questionable styling detail and high heeled see through plastic stripper shoes filled with orchids were downright tacky, but overall this was an eye-catching collection from a talented new designer with original ideas. Amongst my favourite pieces were cream big pocketed trench coats with huge flouncy bows on the bum, and vibrant tropical printed silk dresses in green, vermillion and lime.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

The definitely not very shy and retiring Carlotta Actis Barone was wearing one of her printed boudoir wraps when she strode out to take a bow at the end of the catwalk, and – somewhat ironically given the theme of her collection – her bosoms made an excited bid for freedom, much to the amusement of the crowd.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Brothels, ,Carlotta Actis Barone, ,Casey Otremba, ,China Doll, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Mode, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,French Boudoir, ,Geisha, ,Headdresses, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Megan Thomas, ,Orchids, ,prints, ,Prostitution, ,Rachel Galley, ,Stripper Shoes, ,t.reidy, ,Tassels, ,Tina Reidy, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Mode, Carlotta Actis Barone

Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Casey Otremba.

It was the huge and elaborate headdresses by Rachel Galley that grabbed our immediate attention as the first models traversed the catwalk, visit their steady heads bearing wide concoctions of twirling metal, flowers and swinging tassels for Carlotta Actis Barone‘s S/S 2012 commentary ‘on the stolen liberty and beauty associated with prostitution.’

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Carlotta Actis Barone is one of three designers who are being mentored by Fashion Mode, a mysterious entity that provides direction and support in everything from design to business management and marketing.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas.

The new collection was inspired by a cross pollination of cultural ideas: Victorian brothels and French boudoir style from the turn of the last century contrasted with the high class prostitution and honour traditionally associated with being a Geisha.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 by t. reidy
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by t.reidy.

Swishing lilac and cream dresses with roped detailing around the bust and waist signified the imprisonment of prostitution, whilst loosely draped pencil skirts and lingerie-styled tunics suggested a more playful air of seduction, accessorised with wide patterned kimono inspired waist wraps.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Orchid hair accessories and china doll make-up added to the air of naive idolisation of feminine beauty, but the clash of styles did not always work. Wrinkled tights patterned with stripes of letters (a signature of Barone) were a questionable styling detail and high heeled see through plastic stripper shoes filled with orchids were downright tacky, but overall this was an eye-catching collection from a talented new designer with original ideas. Amongst my favourite pieces were cream big pocketed trench coats with huge flouncy bows on the bum, and vibrant tropical printed silk dresses in green, vermillion and lime.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

The definitely not very shy and retiring Carlotta Actis Barone was wearing one of her printed boudoir wraps when she strode out to take a bow at the end of the catwalk, and – somewhat ironically given the theme of her collection – her bosoms made an excited bid for freedom, much to the amusement of the crowd.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Brothels, ,Carlotta Actis Barone, ,Casey Otremba, ,China Doll, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Mode, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,French Boudoir, ,Geisha, ,Headdresses, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Megan Thomas, ,Orchids, ,prints, ,Prostitution, ,Rachel Galley, ,Stripper Shoes, ,t.reidy, ,Tassels, ,Tina Reidy, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Basso & Brooke

Basso & Brooke a/w 2010 by Katie Harnett
Basso & Brooke a/w 2010 by Katie Harnett
Basso & Brooke by Katie Harnett.

I was running late for this show due to the evil evil cocktails at the Laden Showrooms website launch party in the concrete house at the end of my street. (It’s on sale for £2.2 million. Nuts. I’ve been in there and it ain’t all that: it’s like the interior of a multi-storey carpark.)


The rooftop view from the house on Bacon Street, rx complete with poncey rainbow fibre optic light display.

As I hurtled into the courtyard of Somerset House I passed a girl I haven’t seen since I left the University of Brighton back in the mid 90s, viagra dosage so I sort of waved, aghast, at her. Inside I sat down next to a sniffy man who I once knew vaguely long ago, and who literally turned his nose up at me, and then turned his back. I don’t think I did smell but I probably was a little dishevelled. Cycling has a tendency to do that. I only spotted one other cyclist at the shows over the entire week. Funny that. But I tell you, it’s by far the quickest way to get between venues. Addison Lee eat your heart out.

I turned to the man on the other side of me, recognising in him a fellow twittering fiend as we tapped at our iphones (everyone in fashion has a blackberry), although god knows it was very hard to twitter from the official BFC tents because there was apparently very little 3G coverage. C’mon folks, sort it out! We formed an instant bond and swapped twitter addresses and I found out he runs the website Not Just a Label, bigging up young designers. Now that’s what I like, a spirit of camaraderie! And then I looked over and saw that beardy glam man was sat opposite me (last spotted over at Charlie Le Mindu) and that alone would have made my day. I’d love to know who he was – does anyone know? He even smiled at me during the show when he caught me looking at him rather than the clothes, and it made me tingle it did! He had the most elegant poise which I do so love. A couple of paps came strolling past me muttering about how they couldn’t be arsed to snap photos of the only sleb in the front row, the girl from the Noisettes, who is clearly not famous enough to earn a decent paycheck.

Basso & Brooke by Katie Harnett.
Basso & Brooke by Katie Harnett.

Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

On our seats were long elegant cardboard bottle carriers decorated in an exclusive Basso & Brooke print for the Turning Leaf wine company. These will no doubt make collector’s items in years to come so it’s a pity I have so much crap in my house already – where the hell would I display a wine bottle? Perhaps I could stick a candle in it and come over all studenty/70s? Or maybe not. But it did slip down easy, even if I had to lug it around for the rest of the day.

Basso & Brooke by Katie Harnett.
Basso & Brooke by Katie Harnett.

Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.

The Basso & Brooke show was as fabulous as it always is – but there you go, give me a riot of clashing prints and colour and I’ll swoon at your feet. Slinky body-hugging dresses, over equally slim clashing or matching leggings were covered in their signature digital prints – once unique but now used by many a designer – made the models lizard-like yet glamourous. A tough call that one but it worked. What didn’t work so well was the way they all moved, arms splayed and hands held awkwardly out. I can only conclude that they were all chosen for their singularly inelegant walks, or that they were all told to stride this way. Why?!

Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.
Basso & Brooke by Amelia Gregory.

On leaving the show I bumped into my old college mate again, who was totally bemused by my presence at the shows. She was there purely in her capacity as senior designer at Monsoon “though I spend most of my time looking after my two kids these days.” She expressed surprise that I actually run Amelia’s Magazine, until she found out that I a childless. “Oh well that would explain it then. We used to keep those in the office for inspiration, I didn’t realise it was you.” What, not even with the prominent picture of me next to the introduction in every issue?

Basso & Brooke by Katie Harnett.
Basso & Brooke by Katie Harnett.

Isn’t it funny how people perceive you? (or don’t, as the case may be)

Categories ,Bacon Street, ,Basso & Brooke, ,BFC Tent, ,Clashing, ,Foxtons, ,Katie Harnett, ,Laden Showrooms, ,London Fashion Week, ,Not Just a Label, ,prints, ,Somerset House, ,Turning Leaf, ,Wine

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Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

KTZ S/S 2014 by Rose Crees

KTZ S/S 2014 by Rose Crees

Since illustrating KTZ‘s striking A/W 2011 collection for Amelia’s Magazine, I have wished there would come a chance to attend a KTZ catwalk show in person. Koji Maruyama and Marjan Pejowski’s S/S 2014 womenswear collection impressed me both visually and intellectually – welcoming the sweeping winds of change whilst looking back at older, wiser traditions – but unfortunately the new structure of the main catwalk space at Somerset House, plus super tight security measures to control the larger audiences it can hold meant that I found myself impossibly struggling for a good spot to capture properly on camera this much anticipated moment. So what better chance for a lavishly illustrated London Fashion Week review!

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

Carrying on from their S/S 2014 menswear collection’s Arabic influences and extensive use of symbols, KTZ focused again for their S/S 2014 womenswear collection on themes related to spirituality, religious attire and nomadic cultures, highlighting the impact on today’s society by migrating populations. Against the backdrop of an upbeat atmosphere and a soundtrack which included howling winds, fire crackling sounds, wild animal growling and western re-mixes of eastern tunes, we saw burqa-style dresses, billowing capes, floral prints reminiscent of Islamic mosaics and graphic monochrome patterns made up from shapes of stars and pentagons. Black bomber jackets covered in silver hardwear, spiked wrist cuffs and hats as well as bold silver jewellery further added to the general feel of determination and optimism I thought this collection exuded.

KTZ S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

KTZ S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

KTZ S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

KTZ S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

KTZ S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

KTZ S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

KTZ S/S 2014 by Gareth A Hopkins

KTZ S/S 2014 by Gareth A Hopkins

KTZ S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

KTZ S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

KTZ S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

KTZ S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

KTZ S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

KTZ S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

KTZ S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

KTZ S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs

KTZ S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Arabic, ,BFC Tent, ,british fashion council, ,Burqa, ,Claire Kearns, ,deserts, ,Dom & Ink, ,Floral prints, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Karolina Burdon, ,KTZ, ,Lizzie Donegan, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lynne Datson, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,monochrome, ,New Good Studio, ,prints, ,Religious, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Scott W Mason, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Spikes, ,Womenswear, ,xplusyequals

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Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Eley Kishimoto – Textile storytelling

KISH_SS10_0125

As much a departure from their last SS collection as possible, cheapest Eley Kishimoto’s SS/10 catwalk brought us 70′s styling with Peter Pan collars, pills chunky heels and a full plate of prints. But with brazen pattern combinations their mark was unmistakable. What they called “Beyond The Chintz” was an ode to interior textiles….and no furnishing was safe. With oversize sofa florals, gem colored curtain stripes and eastern pillow prints, the design duo stitched together a collection of nostalgic ethnic fusion.

KISH_SS10_0439

KISH_SS10_0099

William Morris’ decorative signature could be felt in tenting blouses with creeping vines while Scandinavian elements were present in a negative-space two tone spring jacket.
Borrowing from the whisper of red, white and blue pieces from SS/09, we saw pointy graphic prints, crotchet shrugs, and boxy dresses in sunbleached blues.

KISH_SS10_0044

KISH_SS10_0158

Last year’s shiny tailored dresses and complimentary tonal tights were abandoned for gauzy cottons and slouchy socks paired with chunky heels. The latter, although adorable, occasionally misfires when the slippery socks cause toes to ‘hang ten’ over the shoe’s front edge.

Hemlines bounced from knee to mini and blouses were loose and boxy in chiffons and lightweight cottons. A striking all over pheasant feather print turned a twill mechanic’s jumpsuit into a super chic one piece that stole the show.

KISH_SS10_0415

Other showstoppers were a pair of tablecloth gingham egg shaped dresses with large citrus polka dots outlined in black fringe and worn with pouf sleeve jersey shirts with their own boldly colored polka dot clusters. Only Eley and Kishimoto could make that work.

KISH_SS10_0304

Travels to East India seemed to provide fodder for some earthy tones and more surprise combos with, my personal favorite, a full skirt with mint green bleeding into a bamboo pattern and belted off beneath a fitted brown diamond print blouse. If only winter weren’t on its way!

KISH_SS10_0466

The collection felt like a midday nap on a threadbare sofa in the sunroom of your grandma’s house where every textile tells a story and the sunshine looks like lemonade.

KISH_SS10_0492

Categories ,british fashion council, ,Eley Kishimoto, ,London Fashion Week, ,Peter Pan, ,prints, ,S/S2010, ,Somerset House, ,textiles, ,William Morris

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