Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch Baartmans and Siegel

Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 by Barb Royal
Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Baartmans and Siegel are already making waves in menswear land: the upcoming brand is stocked by Harrods. A look at their S/S 2012 collection reveals why. It is an easy going range of summery suits, remedy accessories and separates in perfect boy tones: lots of pewter, store stone, price dusty blue and dashes of orange and caramel. Of particular note were the chunky leather satchels, snood silk scarves and cosy striped handknit cotton cardigans and jumpers, all worn with comfy brogues by classic shoemakers Grenson.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
All photography by Matt Bramford.

Baartmans Siegel LFW by Katie Allen
Baartmans Siegel S/S 2012 by Katie Allen.

Wouter Baartman and Amber Siegel are a Dutch/English design partnership who met whilst designing at Viktor & Rolf and became united over their love of beautiful craftsmanship and imaginative design.

Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Baartmans and Siegel (SS-2012) by Barb Royal
Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

The Dust Drifters collection was inspired by the colours of an arid landscape, perfect for the modern traveller and Baartmans and Siegel‘s use of quality fabrics such as Irish linen and silk crepe contributes to the air of luxury. They describe themselves as ‘modern traditionalists’ and it’s easy to see how this ethos has been translated into clothing. Beautiful.

Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Amber Siegel, ,Barb Royal, ,Dust Drifters, ,dutch, ,English, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grenson, ,Handknit, ,Harrods, ,Katie Allen, ,lfw, ,Luxury, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Ones To Watch, ,S/S 2012, ,Silk Crepe, ,Wouter Baartman

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch KYE

KYE S/S 2012 by Katie Allen
KYE S/S 2012 by Katie Allen.

Ones to Watch menswear finished with the most outrageous designer: KYE. Live and Let Live featured plenty of glitzy gold decoration in the form of glittery DMs, viagra dosage foiled prints of skeleton uzis and even a life size crystal encrusted gun bag strapped across a bare chest. Inspired by the images of conflicts and violence that saturate our news networks, dosage this was not a collection for the feint hearted.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
Photography by Matt Bramford.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
KYE SS 2012 by Barb Royal
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Woven tasselled scarves worn in multiple around wrists and ankles, ed on heads and around faces were a nod towards Palestinian fashion – even appearing in a full matching shirts and shorts suit with neon guns emblazoned in embroidery on the back.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Having grown up in a separated country Korean born designer Kathleen Hanhee Kye pokes fun at excessive militarism, but this was always going to be difficult ground to tread – I am sure that as many people will find this collection distasteful as find it entertaining. Still, whoever said fashion could not cause us to pause and think, or even antagonise? One thing is certain, Live and Let Live was a fun and different way to round up S/S 2012 menswear Ones to Watch.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
Photography by Matt Bramford.

Kathleen Hanhee Kye holds a BA and MA in menswear from Central Saint Martins. She hopes to branch out into womenswear next season: I’m intrigued to see what this will look like.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Glitzy, ,Gold, ,Kathleen Hanhee Kye, ,Katie Allen, ,Korean, ,KYE, ,KYE Fashion, ,lfw, ,Live and Let Live, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Militarism, ,Ones To Watch, ,Palestine

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Amelia’s Magazine | Montreal Festimania 2011: Festival Mode et Design Review – Oh La La Défilé Lingerie

Montreal Festimania Mode et Design by Dan Lester
Montreal Festimania Mode et Design by Dan Lester.

Lingerie shows. Never given to the most fashion forward of occasions, medical but nonetheless the annual Oh La La Défilé Lingerie has become something of a highlight for Festival Mode et Fashion. Standing in the packed media area to watch the show I levelled my expectations to meet the occasion: lots of beautiful underwear worn by outrageously leggy models with tiny pert bottoms, more about owing precisely nowt to the world of high fashion. Check. I was right and the boyfriend was very pleased.

Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
But what I hadn’t bargained for was the presence of a very enthusiastic (small) French rapper. Not to mention some supremely well oiled male models in spotty socks who got the biggest cheers of the evening. What fun!

Festimania 2011 by Barb Royal
Festimania 2011 by Barb Royal.

Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Mode Design Lingerie Montreal Festimania 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Fashion Mode et Design Lingerie Show. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

As we left McGill College Avenue the sky released a few big plops of rain. A passing festival organiser sighed with relief – they’d made it, the first ever rain-free Festival Mode et Fashion. Here’s to many more.

Categories ,2011, ,Barb Royal, ,Dan Lester, ,Festival Mode et Fashion, ,lingerie, ,McGill College Avenue, ,Montreal Festimania, ,Oh La La Defile Lingerie, ,Rapper, ,review, ,underwear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Ellen Li
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Ellen Li.

The much anticipated Nova Chiu collection took the finale spot with Ones to Watch this season. We were of course very excited to see the progress of this label, which was much lauded at the LCF graduate shows last summer, and which we covered in a preview just last week. This time around Nova Chiu comprises of the design duo of Nova Chiu and designer Jeff Archer, whom she met whilst interning with Anna Sui in New York.

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones_to_Watch_Nova_Chiu_by_Barb_Royal
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

This was an expectedly colourful collection of clashing fabrics and colours that drew on tribal and peasant influences and cheerfully married them with the modern – witness brightly patterned leggings, dangling tassel earrings, intense strips of embroidery, triangular pleated waist peplums, furry all in one suits and zany oversized earmuffs. It certainly proved that Nova Chiu have a signature style to watch, and cemented their place as a fashion label much beloved of illustrators. We can’t wait to see what next season brings.

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
NOVA CHIU AW 2012 by Nicola Ellen
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Nicola Ellen.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Nova_Chiu_by_Barb_Royal
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

Don’t forget to read our preview blog post about Nova Chiu.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Anna Sui, ,Barb Royal, ,Claire Jones, ,Ellen Li, ,Fashion Scout, ,Jeff Archer, ,lfw, ,new york, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Nova Chiu, ,Ones To Watch

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Amelia’s Magazine | Prose Studio: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Prose A/W 2012 by Joe Waldron
Prose A/W 2012 by Joe Waldron.

As regular readers will know we’ve been fans of Prose Studio for awhile, so it was very exciting to see them showing once more at London Fashion Week this season – a decision based on the opportunity to show alongside some of the most exciting upcoming designers in fashion, a place that suits Prose well. Designer Miriam Lehle is based in Germany but after an appearance with On/Off in 2009 she returned to the UK last season to show at the main stands in Somerset House. For A/W 2012 she took to the catwalk once more with Fashion Scout.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose A/W 2012 by Natalie Lines
Prose A/W 2012 by Natalie Lines.

Each season Miriam Lehle explores a new and very different theme, but a core love of baggy, boxy shapes and unorthodox textures remains essential to each collection. This time around she focused on squared-off shapes in muted tones of midnight, ochre and chestnut, which were adorned with different types of contrasting layered fringing – a look which worked especially well on a round shouldered caplet that was worn with sumptuous harem-style burnt orange velvet trousers.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Prose A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

The collection was teamed with sensible lace up shoes, slicked back wet-look hair, strong brows and red lips. A dash of mustard yellow brought a light lift and the exposed back on an asymmetric dress lent a sexy edge to an otherwise slightly androgynous collection.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose A/W 2012 by Sara Pateraki
Prose A/W 2012 by Sara Pateraki.

Tasselled fringing came in stiffened patent leather, which also appeared as a patchwork material for skirts and trousers. This was juxtaposed against yarn based fringing which created a softer, almost fluffy, silhouette in vertical and horizontal stripes.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

A favourite garment was a marbled red silk dress which featured the boxy relaxed shape that Prose is known for – and interesting peaked ruffles on the shoulders that echoed the high gathered waist.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

The A/W 2012 collection from Prose was confident and polished: without a doubt Miriam Lehle will have converted a whole new army of fans.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Prose A/W 2012 by Kristina Grundberg
Prose A/W 2012 by Kristina Grundberg.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Barb Royal, ,catwalk, ,Claire Jones, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Joe Waldron, ,Kristina Grundberg, ,lfw, ,Miriam Lehle, ,Natalie Lines, ,Prose Studio, ,review, ,Sara Pateraki

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Bolshie

Bolshie LFW SS12 by Sam Parr
Bolshie S/S 2012 by Sam Parr.

The invite to Romantic Poverty – a Madonna with a vast gold chain badly photoshopped around her neck – said it all: Bolshie means business with this here fashion malarkey. She’s been to London Fashion Week dressed in eye-catching outfits, sale she’s done a stand at Fashion Scout and now she’s gone one step further and staged her own fashion show.

Bolshie (London Fashion Week) by Barb Royal
Bolshie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

The show, on Thursday night, was held on the top of a car park just off Old Street, and it was a vibrant reminder of what London does best – breeding up and coming designers who don’t let tiny budgets get in the way of creativity.

Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
It’s been a long while since I went to a show in an interesting or edgy location, but this was certainly it. Visitors were packed into a vast car lift and then delivered to the top floor under the glare of orange lamps and the looming twinkle of nearby office blocks. Seats were bulging with goodie bags, full of Bolshie branded tat.

Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
The show began with a brilliant bit of raw energy in the form of rapping from Mic Righteous, and then the models were off down the catwalk (such as it was) with a swish of their ponytails and a sweep of their talons. Bathed in the yellow light they primped and preened (the girls) or clutched at their balls (the boys).

Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie-(London-Fashion-Week)-by-Barb-Royal
Bolshie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Gone were Bolshie‘s previous sculptural pieces covered in glitter: in their place was a thoroughly wearable collection with an eye to the kind of market Cassette Playa services. Prints reigned large, with dollar signs ago-go and cash stuffed into waistbands. Girls wore tight fitting catsuits, bikinis and tiny shorts and boys wore baggy trews. The collection didn’t bust any design barriers but it was done with such ballsy panache that it left me grinning from ear to ear.

Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie may have swapped the baby doll leg accessories and chicken fillet boobs for a more comfortable velour tracksuit and dreads down to her knees, but she’s a 19 year old with more ambition than many twice her age.

Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Her approach to fashion is as rough and ready as her artworking and she’s got a way to go before she settles into her own design groove but Bolshie, it seems, is here to stay.

Bolshie SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory mic righteous
Bolshie with Mic Righteous. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Baby-leg girl, ,Barb Royal, ,Blow PR, ,Blow Presents, ,Bol$hie, ,Bolshie, ,Fashion Scout, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mic Righteous, ,Old Street, ,review, ,Rhiannon Jones, ,Romantic Poverty, ,S/S 2012, ,Sam Parr

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Dans La Vie

Dans La Vie by Marta Spendowska
Dans La Vie S/S 2012 by Marta Spendowska.

On Sunday I attended my first ever Dans La Vie show with very little idea of what to expect, price but hey, viagra 100mg the invitation was a colourful mashup of imagery and in my book that’s generally a good sign. Dans La Vie is diminutive Japanese designer Rira Sugawara and began life in 1999 as a print collection, clearly her first love. Since 2005 she has been presenting a full clothing collection in Paris, Milan and Berlin – now it’s our turn in London.

Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie (SS 2012) by Barb Royal
Dans La Vie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

This seasons collection was titled My Pop Madonna (Clash Beauty), and her four signature print designs were inspired and sent down the catwalk to music by four iconic female musicians: Madonna (of course), Rihanna, Lady Gaga and the late lamented Amy Winehouse. According to the press release My Pop Madonna (Clash Beauty) was also a response to Rira Sugawara‘s feelings in the aftermath of the Japanese earthquake: it wasn’t exactly clear how these two seemingly unrelated strands of inspiration were intertwined, but the results were fun and refreshingly different.

Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW SS12 Dans La Vie by Kristina Vasiljeva
Dans La Vie S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Rira Sugawara‘s Dan La Vie label specialises in a kind of glossy collaged look, which was manifested in the very first outfit to hit the catwalk: it featured a striking all over matching print on the blouse and a matching full shiny skirt that looked fit for the wettest of days. The collaged design included all sorts of intriguing elements: a Madonna face and florals mashed up into a striped pattern reminiscent of shifting ground. A cute shorts and blouse ensemble was followed by a wide belted trench that seemed more befitting of the patent fabric and was one of my favourite elements of this collection.

Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
dans la vie ellie sutton
Dans La Vie S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton.

A giant floral print entwined with floating cherubs featured on more separates and this was then followed by a powerful pink roses and hearts combo that spread to holdalls and clutch bags. The collection then switched towards the biggest collage design yet, featuring apples, daffodils and what looked like skyscrapers. This was accompanied by some unfortunate pastel lips and then for some inexplicable reason a model appeared with her tits poking out of an otherwise demure beige blouse. Aside from these strange styling decisions there were lots of fun elements to the My Pop Madonna collection, and many of the Dans La Vie separates could easily find a place in the wardrobe of someone with a bold and colourful aesthetic.

Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,amy winehouse, ,Barb Royal, ,Blow PR, ,catwalk, ,Clash Beauty, ,Clutch Bags, ,collage, ,Dans La Vie, ,Earthquake, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Fashion Scout, ,florals, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Glossy, ,hearts, ,japanese, ,kitsch, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Lady Gaga, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Madonna, ,Marta Spendowska, ,My Pop Madonna, ,print, ,review, ,Rihanna, ,Rira Sugawara, ,S/S 2012, ,Separates, ,Trench Coat

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Felder Felder

Felder Felder SS 2011 by t.reidy

Felder Felder S/S 2011 by t.reidy.

Felder Felder are identical twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder, and who studied together at Central Saint Martins (of course). According to the press release their S/S 2012 collection BANG! looked to the ‘bravery and bitten romance‘ of choreographer Pina Bausch, dosage which inspired their ‘modern undone style‘ of the kind preferred by uptown girls such as Jen Brill. Having never heard of Jen Brill I had to go google her: a model and photography agent of Chinese Australian origin she has or is apparently dating Terry Richardson. Which would account for her sudden it-girl infamy.

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

Since the twins graduated just a few years ago they have quickly built a reputation for quirky combinations of girly and rock n roll aesthetics: attracting some famous patrons that include Rihanna, website like this Gwyneth Paltrow, and if the front row was anything to go by the ultimate Brit it-girl Peaches Geldof.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

A very gaunt looking Peaches was sat right across from me, her mouth dangling agog through the whole show as if desperate for a good meal. For god’s sake woman, eat! She kept self consciously adjusting her pose but luckily she didn’t distract me for long.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory peaches geldof

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

BANG! began with stunning graphic prints that swirled and splatted across flirty skater skirts paired with loose blouses. Over the top bondage inspired neck collars criss-crossed the chest and joined with belts to give a more hard edged feel. Stunning shoes by Kat Maconie were also given a matching print treatment, whilst metallic jackets, a dress and miniature backpack in glitzy pale blue added pizazz.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

Sheer fabrics were embellished with signature Felder Felder studs, this time offered in dangling bullet shapes on sweeping black dresses and short white frocks. Orange made a sunny appearance on models with slicked back locks and a collaboration with Triumph produced some sexy bikinis: oh to have a body like one of those models. It did at times feel as though there were too many incongruous shapes within one collection: A-line, bodycon, maxi, draped, flirty, they were all there.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Back at Somerset House I copped a quick feel of the gorgeous fabrics at the Felder Felder stand and quickly understood their appeal: no wonder it-girls, singers and actresses love the pretty yet hard-edged Felder Felder look.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,BANG!, ,Barb Royal, ,BFC Tent, ,bodycon, ,Bullet, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Choreographer, ,Embellishment, ,Felder Felder, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gwyneth Paltrow, ,it-girl, ,Jen Brill, ,Kat Maconie, ,leather, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Metallic, ,Peaches Geldof, ,Pina Bausch, ,print, ,Rihanna, ,S/S 2012, ,Somerset House, ,Studs, ,t.reidy, ,Tina Reidy, ,Triumph, ,Twins

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jacob Kimmie

Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska
Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska.

I missed the Jacob Kimmie show last season but the fabulous cream and black elegance of his sophisticated collection for A/W 2010 is still etched into my mind.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW SS12 Jacob Kimmie by Kristina Vasiljeva
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Jacob Kimmie‘s new collection was called Rhapsody and featured a huge number of beautifully constructed garments in signature monochrome, seek but this time with variation in the form of a grey dove print that appeared on white and black grounds to equal effect. Flocks of doves spread across skirts or down tiered chiffon dresses. Taking a brave step away from monochrome Jacob Kimmie also showcased the dove print in coy red.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob-Kimmie-(SS-2012)-by-Barb-Royal
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Ah, clinic chiffon. There has been an awful lot of exposed nipple action this LFW and Jacob Kimmie‘s show was no exception. High necked Victorian school marm blouses with slouchy puff sleeves were given the sheer treatment – if only the women likely to afford these garments had such perky boobs. On other blouses bib like ruffles covered the bosom or a dapper rose appeared at the neck. Slim mesh panels up the sides and down the sleeves of long dresses were particularly clever. The contrast of sexiness and primness was emphasised with simple allusions to religion and virginity – a cross around the neck or a barely there netted cape.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

The show closed with an exposed bride, who sashayed down the catwalk under a diaphanous veil with an empty birdcage swinging at her side. The black models from the show posed in a row at the end of the catwalk as Jacob gave his final bow – as ever an incongruous figure, rotund and cheery in baseball cap, casual t-shirt and shorts – the antithesis of his designs.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

Jacob Kimmie is fast building himself a strong brand that is an alluring combination of prim and sexy. Rhapsody S/S 2012 was a beautiful and wearable collection that should appeal to buyers in spades.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Birdcage, ,Bride, ,Chiffon, ,doves, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grey, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Mesh, ,monochrome, ,Nipples, ,Panels, ,print, ,Religious, ,Rhapsody, ,Ruffles, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sheer, ,Veil, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Krystof Strozyna

Krystof Strozyna Scarf by Claire Kearns S/S 2012
Krystof Strozyna S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

Having appeared at London Fashion Week for the past 5 years now, ailment Krystof Strozyna is quickly becoming a recognised name amongst London’s Fashion Elite. He has quite the reputation for dressing beautiful women (no less than Cheryl Cole and Natalia Vodianova have worn his designs) and pop princesses Diana Vickers and Jade Ewen were set to take their seats in the front row. Diana, see another keen follower of Strozyna‘s work, ambulance sported a black and gold ensemble by Sass & Bide whilst Jade Ewen glowed in a cream/mint green dress from Strozyna’s A/W 2011 collection.

Krystof Strozyna 1 by Rowena Bazlington

Krystof Strozyna 2 by Rowena Bazlington

Krystof Strozyna 3 by Rowena Bazlington

I arrived at Freemasons’ Hall way past the scheduled 2.30pm, feeling I’d definitely missed my chance to use such a hot ticket at LFW. But, all thanks to that infamous bittersweet element of fashion week – shows starting VERY late – I made it on time and gratefully took my ticketed seat on the front row. Another Vauxhall Fashion Scout goodie bag meant more Body Shop make-up and more Label M products which means, now that fashion week is over, I can safely say I may never need to buy hair products ever again. People, forget the star-studded fashion crowd and beautiful clothes; goodie bags are one of the biggest perks of fashion week (bar the subsequent accumulation of 10 of the same Vauxhall notebook). They can be amazing. And I always shamelessly rifle through mine as soon as I pick it up; why the hell not, eh?

Krystof Strozyna S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

Krystof Strozyna S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

Krystof Strozyna S/S 2012 9 by Rowena Bazlinton

Krystof‘s new feature for Spring/Summer 2012 was denim, which made a welcomed appearance in 70′s inspired flared jeans and statement slit jackets. With all denim featured in a pale-blue stone wash, however, I found that the pieces didn’t quite harmonise with Strozyna’s colour scheme. To me, light denim upon black has always conjured loud images of cheap, tacky clothes and, in all honesty, Tulisa from N Dubz. Just sayin’. Needless to say, the look didn’t seem to fit into Krystof Strozyna‘s famous design aesthetic of classic, hourglass flattering pannelling and accent colours, done to perfection.

Krystof Strozyna S/S 2012 8 by Rowena Bazlinton

Krystof Strozyna S/S 2012 7 by Rowena Bazlinton

Krystof Strozyna S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Krystof Strozyna
S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Meticulous draping was, once again, a key feature in Krystof‘s collection. Sheer chiffon was draped over white shirts, nude panelled dresses and one-shouldered pieces; all in soft lilacs, sea blues and mint, as Strozyna took his inspiration from Navy uniforms, the sea and a paradise island. Staying true to his reputation, all his dress-making was beautifully flattering on the hourglass silhouette through the magic of his pannelling and colour choice.

Krystof Strozyna S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Krystof Strozyna
S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Krystof Strozyna 4 by Rowena Bazlington

Krystof Strozyna 5 by Rowena Bazlington

The very features that make Strozyna‘s work so alluring are exactly what he keeps updating and refreshing, collection by collection. The bodycon silhouette and graphic cuts and colour blocking make up the unique Krystof Strozyna look that so many celebrities have fallen for, much due to their statement wearability, and, although I expected a little more surprise from the Polish designer, there was still a revitalising energy about the show that shone through with his introduction of denim.

Krystof Strozyna 6 by Rowena Bazlington

Krystof Strozyna by Sam Parr - LFW S/S 2012

Krystof Strozyna
S/S 2012 by Sam Parr

Krystof Strozyna S/S 2012 by Rowena Bazlinton 10

All photography by Rowena Bazlinton

With simple, statement cuts and that signature sexy femininity, Krystof’s designs may not have the theatrics and showmanship to rival other stand-out fashion week favourites (see Ziad Ghanem), but if it’s good enough for Natalia then it’s damn well good enough for me.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Cheryl Cole, ,Claire Kearns, ,Diana Vickers, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Georgia Takacs, ,Jade Ewen, ,Krystof Strozyna, ,Label M, ,lfw, ,LFW S/S 2012, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,N Dubz, ,Natalia Vodianova, ,poland, ,Rowena Bazlinton, ,S/S 2012, ,Sam Parr, ,Sugababes, ,The Body Shop, ,The X Factor, ,Tulisa, ,vauxhall, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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