Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Felder Felder

Felder Felder SS 2011 by t.reidy

Felder Felder S/S 2011 by t.reidy.

Felder Felder are identical twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder, and who studied together at Central Saint Martins (of course). According to the press release their S/S 2012 collection BANG! looked to the ‘bravery and bitten romance‘ of choreographer Pina Bausch, dosage which inspired their ‘modern undone style‘ of the kind preferred by uptown girls such as Jen Brill. Having never heard of Jen Brill I had to go google her: a model and photography agent of Chinese Australian origin she has or is apparently dating Terry Richardson. Which would account for her sudden it-girl infamy.

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

Since the twins graduated just a few years ago they have quickly built a reputation for quirky combinations of girly and rock n roll aesthetics: attracting some famous patrons that include Rihanna, website like this Gwyneth Paltrow, and if the front row was anything to go by the ultimate Brit it-girl Peaches Geldof.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

A very gaunt looking Peaches was sat right across from me, her mouth dangling agog through the whole show as if desperate for a good meal. For god’s sake woman, eat! She kept self consciously adjusting her pose but luckily she didn’t distract me for long.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory peaches geldof

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

BANG! began with stunning graphic prints that swirled and splatted across flirty skater skirts paired with loose blouses. Over the top bondage inspired neck collars criss-crossed the chest and joined with belts to give a more hard edged feel. Stunning shoes by Kat Maconie were also given a matching print treatment, whilst metallic jackets, a dress and miniature backpack in glitzy pale blue added pizazz.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

Sheer fabrics were embellished with signature Felder Felder studs, this time offered in dangling bullet shapes on sweeping black dresses and short white frocks. Orange made a sunny appearance on models with slicked back locks and a collaboration with Triumph produced some sexy bikinis: oh to have a body like one of those models. It did at times feel as though there were too many incongruous shapes within one collection: A-line, bodycon, maxi, draped, flirty, they were all there.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Back at Somerset House I copped a quick feel of the gorgeous fabrics at the Felder Felder stand and quickly understood their appeal: no wonder it-girls, singers and actresses love the pretty yet hard-edged Felder Felder look.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,BANG!, ,Barb Royal, ,BFC Tent, ,bodycon, ,Bullet, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Choreographer, ,Embellishment, ,Felder Felder, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gwyneth Paltrow, ,it-girl, ,Jen Brill, ,Kat Maconie, ,leather, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Metallic, ,Peaches Geldof, ,Pina Bausch, ,print, ,Rihanna, ,S/S 2012, ,Somerset House, ,Studs, ,t.reidy, ,Tina Reidy, ,Triumph, ,Twins

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: Triumph International Awards


Illustration of Charlotte Taylor by Paolo Caravello

21 fashion shows over five days is no mean feat. The London Fashion Week experience is not complete until you see the sheer amount of work and pure creativity at play during the Fashion Scout shows. The enterprise aims to pluck some of the more obscure yet talented designers out there and provide them with the means and support to build up a sustainable business. We have already seen the back to back Ones to Watch fashion show so here is a little bio for each in addition to Amelia’s write up of the catwalk show.

Parson’s Paris School of Art and Design graduate Georgina Hardinge is already a highly successful designer with a collection for online retail giant Asos under her belt. Her last collection had a very Gaga-esque structured feel to it, page prescription and was picked up by countless magazines and stylists in this summer’s style guides. Erin O’Connor and Little Boots are fans.


Illustration of Georgina Hardinge by Paolo Caravello

A. Hallucination is the brain child of two St Martins graduates – Hwan Sun Park and Chung Chung Lee. Their label was only launched last season and caters for the ‘modern English dandy’ favouring good tailoring and well cut lines, pharmacy modernised with excessive quilting details and added bows to a great effect (if not a little Chanel). The duo use a classic palette in grey, white, beige and black, and their last collection ‘The First Peal’ presented a well crafted and wearable work wardrobe. After taking inspiration from landmarks such as the venue formerly known as The Millenium Dome, their S/S 2011 collection has a lot to beat.

Next up to the block is Amelia’s fave, Charlotte Taylor, also in her second season. With quirky and colourful prints (note she trained under Luella), her S/S 2011 collection is bound to offer a bright and fun style to go with the (hopeful) Indian summer which we missed out on this year. For this collection, her theme is Island Invaders so expect more pokey-fun from the designer in collections to come. Her blog warned not to expect any black and plenty of small orange robots (which are also adorning the VFS cars for the week so look out), silk and bold prints – the sneak preview, a white dress with red and blue stripe detail was lovely, and there’s more where that came from.

The final One to Watch of the week is the lovely, floaty LiLee who, like Georgina has also come under the radar of Asos for a diffusion line. After winning the Highly Commendable award for her London College of Fashion MA graduate show this January, this week Amelia saw how her style has developed since.

Krystof Strozyna was picked up by Vogue in 2007 as one to watch, and after winning the Harrods Design Award for his thesis he has certainly lived up to his potential. Dressing the ‘charismatic and sassy’ woman (he has dressed Cheryl Cole – make of that what you will), his designs utilise graphic lines and perfect fit to create the ultimate pieces. When quizzed on his inspiration for his S/S 11 show, tropical animals and neon lights are listed as key elements in the design process.


Illustration of Prophetik by Paolo Caravello

Prophetik designer Jeff Garner is an eco warrior, a fashion eco warrior. Probably the most well known of the VFS lineup is sustainable fashion brand Prophetik, who have a far more philosophical approach to their collections than contemporaries. Tennessee based, the designer Jeff Garner is firm over the importance of sourcing sustainable fabrics and ethical processes. This year the show entitled ‘Midnight Garden’ focussed on wearable philosophy, and kicked off the VFS shows. Read our review of his show here.

Vauxhall Fashion Scout

21 fashion shows over five days is no mean feat. The London Fashion Week experience is not complete until you see the sheer amount of work and pure creativity at play during the Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows. The enterprise aims to pluck some of the more obscure yet talented designers out there and provide them with the means and support to build up a sustainable business. Today, buy the back to back fashion show will feature four Ones to Watch…and they are all worthy. Here is a little bio for each to wet your appetite before the show. A Hallucination is the brain child of two St Martins graduates – Hwan Sun Park and Chung Chung Lee. Their label was only launched last season and caters for the ‘modern English dandy’ favouring good tailoring and well cut lines, modernised with excessive quilting details and added bows to a great effect (if not a little Chanel). The duo use a classic palette in grey, white, beige and black, and their last collection ‘The First Peal’ presented a well crafted and wearable work wardrobe. After taking inspiration from landmarks such as the venue formerly known as The Millenium Done, their S/S 11 collection has a lot to beat. Next up to the block is Charlotte Taylor, also in her second season. With quirky and colourful prints (note she trained under Luella), her S/S 11 collection is bound to offer a bright and fun style to go with the (hopeful) Indian summer which we missed out on this year. For this collection, her theme is Island Invaders so expect more pokey-fun from the designer. Her blog warns not to expect any black and plenty of small orange robots, silk and bold prints – the sneak preview, a white dress with red and blue stripe detail is lovely, and there’s more where that came from. Parson’s Paris School of Art and Design graduate Georgina Hardinge is already a highly successful designer with a collection for online retail giant Asos under her belt. Her last collection had a very Gaga-esque structured feel to it, and was picked up by countless magazines and stylists in this summer’s style guides. Erin O’Connor and Little Boots are fans.

The final One to Watch of the week is the lovely LiLee who, like Georgina has also come under the radar of Asos for a diffusion line. After winning the Highly Commendable award for her London College of Fashion MA graduate show this January, this week will demonstrate how her style has developed since. Mirroring the twists of a woman’s hair, French rope was used to embellish the dresses in her last collection. Previous one to watch, Eudon Choi has scooped the merit award this year, and gosh, doesn’t he deserve it! After stints at All Saints and Twenty8Twelve he had all the credentials he needed to launch his own line, and that he did. Expect industrial, masculine looks for next year. Krystof Strozyna was picked up by Vogue in 2007 as one to watch, and after winning the Harrods Design Award for his thesis he has certainly lived up to his potential. Dressing the ‘charismatic and sassy’ woman, his designs utilise graphic lines and perfect fit to create the ultimate pieces. When quizzed on his inspiration for his S/S 11 show, tropical animals and neon lights are listed as key elements in the design process.

Prophetik designer Jeff Garner is an eco warrior, a fashion eco warrior. Probably the most well known of the VFS lineup is sustainable fashion brand Prophetik, who have a far more philosophical approach to their collections than contemporaries. Tennessee based, the designer Jeff Garner is firm over the importance of sourcing sustainable fabrics and ethical processes. This year the show entitled ‘Midnight Garden’ will focus on wearable philosophy, and kicked off VFS this zear.
21 fashion shows over five days is no mean feat. The London Fashion Week experience is not complete until you see the sheer amount of work and pure creativity at play during the Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows. The enterprise aims to pluck some of the more obscure yet talented designers out there and provide them with the means and support to build up a sustainable business. Today, pharm the back to back fashion show will feature four Ones to Watch…and they are all worthy. Here is a little bio for each to wet your appetite before the show. A Hallucination is the brain child of two St Martins graduates – Hwan Sun Park and Chung Chung Lee. Their label was only launched last season and caters for the ‘modern English dandy’ favouring good tailoring and well cut lines, unhealthy modernised with excessive quilting details and added bows to a great effect (if not a little Chanel). The duo use a classic palette in grey, clinic white, beige and black, and their last collection ‘The First Peal’ presented a well crafted and wearable work wardrobe. After taking inspiration from landmarks such as the venue formerly known as The Millenium Done, their S/S 11 collection has a lot to beat. Next up to the block is Charlotte Taylor, also in her second season. With quirky and colourful prints (note she trained under Luella), her S/S 11 collection is bound to offer a bright and fun style to go with the (hopeful) Indian summer which we missed out on this year. For this collection, her theme is Island Invaders so expect more pokey-fun from the designer. Her blog warns not to expect any black and plenty of small orange robots, silk and bold prints – the sneak preview, a white dress with red and blue stripe detail is lovely, and there’s more where that came from. Parson’s Paris School of Art and Design graduate Georgina Hardinge is already a highly successful designer with a collection for online retail giant Asos under her belt. Her last collection had a very Gaga-esque structured feel to it, and was picked up by countless magazines and stylists in this summer’s style guides. Erin O’Connor and Little Boots are fans.

The final One to Watch of the week is the lovely LiLee who, like Georgina has also come under the radar of Asos for a diffusion line. After winning the Highly Commendable award for her London College of Fashion MA graduate show this January, this week will demonstrate how her style has developed since. Mirroring the twists of a woman’s hair, French rope was used to embellish the dresses in her last collection. Previous one to watch, Eudon Choi has scooped the merit award this year, and gosh, doesn’t he deserve it! After stints at All Saints and Twenty8Twelve he had all the credentials he needed to launch his own line, and that he did. Expect industrial, masculine looks for next year. Krystof Strozyna was picked up by Vogue in 2007 as one to watch, and after winning the Harrods Design Award for his thesis he has certainly lived up to his potential. Dressing the ‘charismatic and sassy’ woman, his designs utilise graphic lines and perfect fit to create the ultimate pieces. When quizzed on his inspiration for his S/S 11 show, tropical animals and neon lights are listed as key elements in the design process.

Prophetik designer Jeff Garner is an eco warrior, a fashion eco warrior. Probably the most well known of the VFS lineup is sustainable fashion brand Prophetik, who have a far more philosophical approach to their collections than contemporaries. Tennessee based, the designer Jeff Garner is firm over the importance of sourcing sustainable fabrics and ethical processes. This year the show entitled ‘Midnight Garden’ will focus on wearable philosophy, and kicked off VFS this zear.

Illustration of Justin Singh’s entry by Katie Harnett

The calm before the storm, ed the eve of London Fashion Week (16th September) was the night of the Triumph International Awards at The Old Sorting Office. Not really knowing what to expect apart from a whole lorra lingerie, cheap the evening began with drinks and canapés (mini ice cream, mini falafel); before long I was ushered into my amazingly positioned seat directly opposite judges Matthew Williamson (who refused to clap), Helena Christensen (beautiful in the flesh) and Rankin. Although the room was packed, some of the desirable front row seats were a no-show which slightly took away from the significance of sitting there. I did however spot Louise Redknapp, Mary Portas and the cat-like model from the Lancome ads. Both Amelia and Jenny Robbins were there too, and have written, photographed and sketched their respective thoughts on the night here and here.

Follwing a painful introduction from Adam Garcia (actor from Coyote Ugly), we watched a video on each designer. This reminded me so much of the scene from Zoolander award show montage, where they whisper ‘Hansel’ over and over that I had to stifle some giggles. Anyway…to the catwalk show. Well timed and presented, the show ran smoothly with each of the 27 finalists showcasing their winning underwear design. With some outlandish designs such as an exploding balloon costume, an armadillo armour style corset and an organic inspired leafy number, there was much to excite and entertain the audience. My favourites were Vietnamese Pha Thi Cam Tu’s, unzipping flower creation, and Spanish Amaya Caracamo’s wood detail all-in-one.

Illustration of Tovah Cottle’s entry by Katie Harnett

After a speech from judge Hilary Riva, “the future of fashion is very safe” (phew), the winners were announced by Christensen with a flurry of a gold envelope. Caracamo’s wooden all-in-one was crowned runner up, with Italy’s Ludovico Loffreda taking second runner up and Bulgaria’s Nikolay Bogilov snapping up the 15,000 euro first prize for his black ‘Morphology’ creation which interprets the relationship between different muscle groups in the body. His design will be sold by Triumph in Summer 2011.

See all the entries here.

Categories ,Amaya Caracamo, ,Awards, ,bras, ,Helena Christensen, ,Hilary Riva, ,knickers, ,Lancome, ,lingerie, ,live, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Redknapp, ,Ludovico Loffreda, ,Mary Portas, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Morphology, ,Nikolay Bogilov, ,Pha Thi Cam Tu, ,photography, ,Rankin, ,Shape Sensation, ,The Old Sorting Office, ,Triumph, ,Triumph International Awards, ,Womenswear

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