Amelia’s Magazine | The 2013 FAD Awards: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review


Stephanie Kitchen by Warren Clarke

The Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) Awards are always an end-of-fashion-week treat. After five days of the freshest fashion talent dominating the catwalks at the Fashion Scout venue, FAD looks even further into the future at the best of the country’s undergraduate talent, based each season around a different theme.


Louis Anderson-Bythell – all photography by Matt Bramford

There could be no better a theme in this age of global change and austerity than ‘Future Optimism‘, which was the brief for this year’s students. Over 100 undergraduates submitted work for the competition, with fifteen entries showcased at this climatic event.


Anna Kim by Gabriel Ayala

Here’s a quick photographic rundown of the fifteen entries:

MATTHEW O’BRIEN

LUCINDA ROBERTS

STEPHANOS KONSTANTIOU


Stephanos Konstantiou by Laura Hickman

ROBERT MILLS

STEPHANIE KITCHEN

JOSEPH HORTON

CHELSEY CROSSLAND

LOUIS ANDERSON-BYTHELL

AYSHA SIMPSON

NNEKA OKORIE

KIMBERLEY PHILLIPS

LAURA CHITTENDEN

ANNA KIM

ESTELA NEVINSKAITE

MORWENNA DARWELL

And so on to the winners. It must have been a tough job for Hilary Alexander, Fashion Scout’s Martyn Roberts, Topshops’ Geraldine O’Brien, FAD’s Claire Muldoon and our pal Milly Jackson (who won the 2011 Award) to choose a winner.


Sitting at the end of the catwalk is fantastic for shots of models but not so fantastic if the awards action takes place at the opposite end.

One of my personal favourites, Nneka Okorie‘s glorious menswear, took one of the runner up prizes. Her slick trench-coats with digital printing techniques brought both expert tailoring and vivid colours to the catwalk and I loved the discrete details of city skylights on a backpack and trouser hems.

Stephanos Konstantiou took the other runner up prize with his futuristic neoprene collection with rigid cutaway details. His laser-cut houndstooth pattern was completely original, and I enjoyed the sharp silhouettes that his collection projected. Nneka and Stephanos both take home five hundred quid and an industry placement. Well done, pals!

The winner, described by Hilary Alexander as ‘unanimous’ and ‘one to watch’ for the coming seasons, was, deservedly, Stephanie Kitchen. A final year student at Bath Spa University (always a good show at Graduate Fashion Week), Stephanie’s innovative cycle wear earned cheers when it first appeared at the beginning of the show and rapturous applause when it was announced Stephanie had won. This collection brought together wearability, sustainability, style and functionality all in one. The cycle sunglasses were a hit, too.

Stephanie wins £1000 and an industry placement and her designs were also shown at London Fashion Weekend. I don’t think this will be the last time we see Stephanie on the London fashion catwalks.


Winner Stephanie Kitchen by Milly Jackson for FAD

Categories ,2013, ,Anna Kim, ,Awards, ,Aysha Simpson, ,BA, ,catwalk, ,Chelsey Crossland, ,Estela Nevinskaite, ,FAD, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Joseph Horton, ,Kimberley Phillips, ,Laura Chittenden, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louis Anderson-Bythell, ,Lucinda Roberts, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matthew O’Brien, ,menswear, ,Milly Jackson, ,Morwenna Darwell, ,Nneka Okorie, ,review, ,Robert Mills, ,Stephanie Kitchen, ,Stephanos Konstantinou, ,students, ,sustainability, ,undergraduate, ,Warren Clarke, ,Womenswear

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: Triumph International Awards


Illustration of Charlotte Taylor by Paolo Caravello

21 fashion shows over five days is no mean feat. The London Fashion Week experience is not complete until you see the sheer amount of work and pure creativity at play during the Fashion Scout shows. The enterprise aims to pluck some of the more obscure yet talented designers out there and provide them with the means and support to build up a sustainable business. We have already seen the back to back Ones to Watch fashion show so here is a little bio for each in addition to Amelia’s write up of the catwalk show.

Parson’s Paris School of Art and Design graduate Georgina Hardinge is already a highly successful designer with a collection for online retail giant Asos under her belt. Her last collection had a very Gaga-esque structured feel to it, page prescription and was picked up by countless magazines and stylists in this summer’s style guides. Erin O’Connor and Little Boots are fans.


Illustration of Georgina Hardinge by Paolo Caravello

A. Hallucination is the brain child of two St Martins graduates – Hwan Sun Park and Chung Chung Lee. Their label was only launched last season and caters for the ‘modern English dandy’ favouring good tailoring and well cut lines, pharmacy modernised with excessive quilting details and added bows to a great effect (if not a little Chanel). The duo use a classic palette in grey, white, beige and black, and their last collection ‘The First Peal’ presented a well crafted and wearable work wardrobe. After taking inspiration from landmarks such as the venue formerly known as The Millenium Dome, their S/S 2011 collection has a lot to beat.

Next up to the block is Amelia’s fave, Charlotte Taylor, also in her second season. With quirky and colourful prints (note she trained under Luella), her S/S 2011 collection is bound to offer a bright and fun style to go with the (hopeful) Indian summer which we missed out on this year. For this collection, her theme is Island Invaders so expect more pokey-fun from the designer in collections to come. Her blog warned not to expect any black and plenty of small orange robots (which are also adorning the VFS cars for the week so look out), silk and bold prints – the sneak preview, a white dress with red and blue stripe detail was lovely, and there’s more where that came from.

The final One to Watch of the week is the lovely, floaty LiLee who, like Georgina has also come under the radar of Asos for a diffusion line. After winning the Highly Commendable award for her London College of Fashion MA graduate show this January, this week Amelia saw how her style has developed since.

Krystof Strozyna was picked up by Vogue in 2007 as one to watch, and after winning the Harrods Design Award for his thesis he has certainly lived up to his potential. Dressing the ‘charismatic and sassy’ woman (he has dressed Cheryl Cole – make of that what you will), his designs utilise graphic lines and perfect fit to create the ultimate pieces. When quizzed on his inspiration for his S/S 11 show, tropical animals and neon lights are listed as key elements in the design process.


Illustration of Prophetik by Paolo Caravello

Prophetik designer Jeff Garner is an eco warrior, a fashion eco warrior. Probably the most well known of the VFS lineup is sustainable fashion brand Prophetik, who have a far more philosophical approach to their collections than contemporaries. Tennessee based, the designer Jeff Garner is firm over the importance of sourcing sustainable fabrics and ethical processes. This year the show entitled ‘Midnight Garden’ focussed on wearable philosophy, and kicked off the VFS shows. Read our review of his show here.

Vauxhall Fashion Scout

21 fashion shows over five days is no mean feat. The London Fashion Week experience is not complete until you see the sheer amount of work and pure creativity at play during the Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows. The enterprise aims to pluck some of the more obscure yet talented designers out there and provide them with the means and support to build up a sustainable business. Today, buy the back to back fashion show will feature four Ones to Watch…and they are all worthy. Here is a little bio for each to wet your appetite before the show. A Hallucination is the brain child of two St Martins graduates – Hwan Sun Park and Chung Chung Lee. Their label was only launched last season and caters for the ‘modern English dandy’ favouring good tailoring and well cut lines, modernised with excessive quilting details and added bows to a great effect (if not a little Chanel). The duo use a classic palette in grey, white, beige and black, and their last collection ‘The First Peal’ presented a well crafted and wearable work wardrobe. After taking inspiration from landmarks such as the venue formerly known as The Millenium Done, their S/S 11 collection has a lot to beat. Next up to the block is Charlotte Taylor, also in her second season. With quirky and colourful prints (note she trained under Luella), her S/S 11 collection is bound to offer a bright and fun style to go with the (hopeful) Indian summer which we missed out on this year. For this collection, her theme is Island Invaders so expect more pokey-fun from the designer. Her blog warns not to expect any black and plenty of small orange robots, silk and bold prints – the sneak preview, a white dress with red and blue stripe detail is lovely, and there’s more where that came from. Parson’s Paris School of Art and Design graduate Georgina Hardinge is already a highly successful designer with a collection for online retail giant Asos under her belt. Her last collection had a very Gaga-esque structured feel to it, and was picked up by countless magazines and stylists in this summer’s style guides. Erin O’Connor and Little Boots are fans.

The final One to Watch of the week is the lovely LiLee who, like Georgina has also come under the radar of Asos for a diffusion line. After winning the Highly Commendable award for her London College of Fashion MA graduate show this January, this week will demonstrate how her style has developed since. Mirroring the twists of a woman’s hair, French rope was used to embellish the dresses in her last collection. Previous one to watch, Eudon Choi has scooped the merit award this year, and gosh, doesn’t he deserve it! After stints at All Saints and Twenty8Twelve he had all the credentials he needed to launch his own line, and that he did. Expect industrial, masculine looks for next year. Krystof Strozyna was picked up by Vogue in 2007 as one to watch, and after winning the Harrods Design Award for his thesis he has certainly lived up to his potential. Dressing the ‘charismatic and sassy’ woman, his designs utilise graphic lines and perfect fit to create the ultimate pieces. When quizzed on his inspiration for his S/S 11 show, tropical animals and neon lights are listed as key elements in the design process.

Prophetik designer Jeff Garner is an eco warrior, a fashion eco warrior. Probably the most well known of the VFS lineup is sustainable fashion brand Prophetik, who have a far more philosophical approach to their collections than contemporaries. Tennessee based, the designer Jeff Garner is firm over the importance of sourcing sustainable fabrics and ethical processes. This year the show entitled ‘Midnight Garden’ will focus on wearable philosophy, and kicked off VFS this zear.
21 fashion shows over five days is no mean feat. The London Fashion Week experience is not complete until you see the sheer amount of work and pure creativity at play during the Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows. The enterprise aims to pluck some of the more obscure yet talented designers out there and provide them with the means and support to build up a sustainable business. Today, pharm the back to back fashion show will feature four Ones to Watch…and they are all worthy. Here is a little bio for each to wet your appetite before the show. A Hallucination is the brain child of two St Martins graduates – Hwan Sun Park and Chung Chung Lee. Their label was only launched last season and caters for the ‘modern English dandy’ favouring good tailoring and well cut lines, unhealthy modernised with excessive quilting details and added bows to a great effect (if not a little Chanel). The duo use a classic palette in grey, clinic white, beige and black, and their last collection ‘The First Peal’ presented a well crafted and wearable work wardrobe. After taking inspiration from landmarks such as the venue formerly known as The Millenium Done, their S/S 11 collection has a lot to beat. Next up to the block is Charlotte Taylor, also in her second season. With quirky and colourful prints (note she trained under Luella), her S/S 11 collection is bound to offer a bright and fun style to go with the (hopeful) Indian summer which we missed out on this year. For this collection, her theme is Island Invaders so expect more pokey-fun from the designer. Her blog warns not to expect any black and plenty of small orange robots, silk and bold prints – the sneak preview, a white dress with red and blue stripe detail is lovely, and there’s more where that came from. Parson’s Paris School of Art and Design graduate Georgina Hardinge is already a highly successful designer with a collection for online retail giant Asos under her belt. Her last collection had a very Gaga-esque structured feel to it, and was picked up by countless magazines and stylists in this summer’s style guides. Erin O’Connor and Little Boots are fans.

The final One to Watch of the week is the lovely LiLee who, like Georgina has also come under the radar of Asos for a diffusion line. After winning the Highly Commendable award for her London College of Fashion MA graduate show this January, this week will demonstrate how her style has developed since. Mirroring the twists of a woman’s hair, French rope was used to embellish the dresses in her last collection. Previous one to watch, Eudon Choi has scooped the merit award this year, and gosh, doesn’t he deserve it! After stints at All Saints and Twenty8Twelve he had all the credentials he needed to launch his own line, and that he did. Expect industrial, masculine looks for next year. Krystof Strozyna was picked up by Vogue in 2007 as one to watch, and after winning the Harrods Design Award for his thesis he has certainly lived up to his potential. Dressing the ‘charismatic and sassy’ woman, his designs utilise graphic lines and perfect fit to create the ultimate pieces. When quizzed on his inspiration for his S/S 11 show, tropical animals and neon lights are listed as key elements in the design process.

Prophetik designer Jeff Garner is an eco warrior, a fashion eco warrior. Probably the most well known of the VFS lineup is sustainable fashion brand Prophetik, who have a far more philosophical approach to their collections than contemporaries. Tennessee based, the designer Jeff Garner is firm over the importance of sourcing sustainable fabrics and ethical processes. This year the show entitled ‘Midnight Garden’ will focus on wearable philosophy, and kicked off VFS this zear.

Illustration of Justin Singh’s entry by Katie Harnett

The calm before the storm, ed the eve of London Fashion Week (16th September) was the night of the Triumph International Awards at The Old Sorting Office. Not really knowing what to expect apart from a whole lorra lingerie, cheap the evening began with drinks and canapés (mini ice cream, mini falafel); before long I was ushered into my amazingly positioned seat directly opposite judges Matthew Williamson (who refused to clap), Helena Christensen (beautiful in the flesh) and Rankin. Although the room was packed, some of the desirable front row seats were a no-show which slightly took away from the significance of sitting there. I did however spot Louise Redknapp, Mary Portas and the cat-like model from the Lancome ads. Both Amelia and Jenny Robbins were there too, and have written, photographed and sketched their respective thoughts on the night here and here.

Follwing a painful introduction from Adam Garcia (actor from Coyote Ugly), we watched a video on each designer. This reminded me so much of the scene from Zoolander award show montage, where they whisper ‘Hansel’ over and over that I had to stifle some giggles. Anyway…to the catwalk show. Well timed and presented, the show ran smoothly with each of the 27 finalists showcasing their winning underwear design. With some outlandish designs such as an exploding balloon costume, an armadillo armour style corset and an organic inspired leafy number, there was much to excite and entertain the audience. My favourites were Vietnamese Pha Thi Cam Tu’s, unzipping flower creation, and Spanish Amaya Caracamo’s wood detail all-in-one.

Illustration of Tovah Cottle’s entry by Katie Harnett

After a speech from judge Hilary Riva, “the future of fashion is very safe” (phew), the winners were announced by Christensen with a flurry of a gold envelope. Caracamo’s wooden all-in-one was crowned runner up, with Italy’s Ludovico Loffreda taking second runner up and Bulgaria’s Nikolay Bogilov snapping up the 15,000 euro first prize for his black ‘Morphology’ creation which interprets the relationship between different muscle groups in the body. His design will be sold by Triumph in Summer 2011.

See all the entries here.

Categories ,Amaya Caracamo, ,Awards, ,bras, ,Helena Christensen, ,Hilary Riva, ,knickers, ,Lancome, ,lingerie, ,live, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Redknapp, ,Ludovico Loffreda, ,Mary Portas, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Morphology, ,Nikolay Bogilov, ,Pha Thi Cam Tu, ,photography, ,Rankin, ,Shape Sensation, ,The Old Sorting Office, ,Triumph, ,Triumph International Awards, ,Womenswear

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: The Gala Show Finale!


Shinsuke Mitsuoka

The world of fashion is notoriously fickle and grabbing the attentions of a fashion crowd for any extended period of time seems tricky. Catwalk shows do their best with an array of light shows and thumping soundtracks which could sometimes do with a warning.

Nottingham Trent have prepared it all for their outing at Graduate Fashion Week with glossy door staff, medications designer goody bags and even a rather trendy loitering DJ (wearing a somewhat dubious puffa jacket). They’re raring to go, remedy but there’s just one cog in the works; a serious lack of bums on seats. Well, there is of course the age old excuse of being fashionably late, but even the pinched smiles of women ferrying around have started to crumble.

All becomes clear as a dull thudding bass infiltrates the theatre and the sound barrier takes a bashing as the trill of hundreds of screaming girls hit the roof. Apparently Tinie Tempah is a big deal (and from the glimpse I got, genuinely teeny Tinie). He’s had all of one song, which luckily for Nottingham Trent, he dispatches quickly, and soon a bustle of activity swells at the theatre doors. If Tinie didn’t make them ‘Pass Out’ (see what I did there? Here all week folks…) then the efforts of Nottingham Trent’s 2010 graduates will surely do their best to stun the senses. 

Nottingham Trent has a clear passion for encouraging students to experiment with unique techniques and textures in knitwear, producing a modern and varied aesthetic across the course. Their catwalk show oscillates between detailed, intricate knitwear and sleek takes on womenswear with bursts of energy injected at intervals by the likes of Emma Dick, showcasing sharp, graphic prints of televisions and arrows just at home in a museum of Pop Art as the runway. Integrated hoods give the look a futuristic feel but there’s a touch of the retro about her two-tone body con jumpsuit with a classic 1960s palette contrast between red and black.

Nottingham Trent keeps the volume turned up with Claire Hartley’s cutaway knitted one pieces, exposing flashes of green, yellow and red for a futuristic sci-fi look. Hartley’s dedication to forward thinking stretches beyond the aesthetics as she hopes to generate a new innovative, zero waste policy in manufacturing to ensure the sustainability and evolution of the clothes. 

By now Tinie’s long forgotten as each model stalks down the catwalk to puffa DJ’s painfully hip soundtrack. Nikki Lowe dazzles with gold lamé suits complete with built-in gloves worthy of an evil Jackie Collins penned character, but flashlight necklaces add a distinctive disco feel caught somewhere between the 1970s and the 1990s.

Miranda Boucher’s collection is a dark and luxurious celebration of femininity with plush midnight blue coats and velveteen details just obscuring the model’s modesty.  

Emma Philpot’s knitwear seems to grow from the models bodies, twisting and turning upon itself and forming knots and twists likes a chunky chainmail, while Tiffany Williams continues the fairytale edge with her menswear collection in dark, brooding colours and heavy volume that weigh on the shoulders as a hulking, masculine presence. Backs reveal shimmers of gold thread intertwined, adding a lighter side to the depth of her work. 
Jenna Harvey’s dresses change at every turn as each layer of tiny fabric is double printed and loosely set so as it moves a new picture is revealed. At times it feels like 3D glasses are needed just to keep up with the transformation before your eyes.

Meanwhile, Phoebe Thirlwall’s beautiful knitwear dresses, inspired by the intricacies of the skin, show a level of workmanship that is breathtaking under the lights of the catwalk. Each ribbed layer clings to the models with hundreds of different levels working together. Her hard work has clearly not gone unnoticed as her work was also photographed by renowned artist Rankin, a stunning portrait duly displayed in grand terms at Earl’s Court.


 
Izabela Targosz’s equestrian turn on tailoring injects some more colour into Nottingham Trent’s show, with jackets made with horsehair pockets and backs adding a silky but quirky feel. Riding hats are the natural yet perfect accessory to a collection that shows an equal strength in its attention to detail for an upheaval of the British tailored look. 

Shinsuke Matsuoka’s work is saved for the final spot and with the breathtaking effect of the garments, it’s easy to see why. Bondage style zips snake across panels of black hi-shine material; the sound of the clothes are a foreboding presence in themselves, but as six outfits stand together the models are transformed into an unnervingly attractive chain gang from the future. I’m not sure if it was this effect or not, but my camera also spluttered its final breaths at this point, perhaps overwhelmed by the power of Matsuoka’s collection.

In any case, it proved a spectacular way to end things and is not something I can imagine being trumped by Tinie any day soon.

Images courtesy of catwalking.com


Nicola Roberts, cheapest illustrated by Jenny Robins

So it was time to wrap up what was a pretty crazy week in the form of the Graduate Fashion Week Gala Show. After making arrangements for a ticket a while ago, I was bemused to find that at the door there was no sign of said tickets.

Perhaps it had been taken by another contributor? Unlikely. ‘Are you sure you’re supposed to be at this (star-studded) show?’ ‘Yes’ I said, ‘that’s why I’m wearing a bow tie’.

After a few quick radio calls, I was allowed in. Into Earl’s Court, that is – not into the champagne drinks reception. ‘Sponsors only’ was the reply when I asked if I could have a quick drinkie. ‘Sponsors only my eye’ I thought, as I recognised half the people in the fashionably-roped off bar area.

So I waited patiently at the entrance to the theatre. And waited.

And waited.

‘We’ll get you in,’ I was told. ‘Before it actually starts?’ I thought to myself.

As I waited I was entertained by a lovely student called April who could see my blood boiling – stood a little distance away to avoid the steam coming out of my ears. ‘After all I’ve bloody done this week,’ I thought to myself, and then said aloud to April, who quickly excused herself.

Finally I was allowed inside and ushered into a press seat, and, true to form at these events, there were three seats either side of me that remained empty. ‘Typical!’ I thought to myself, and then thought I really should stop thinking to myself so much.

With a few whoops and a whizz, the Gala Show kicked off in fabulous fashion, with Britain’s Got Talent champions Diversity. Fun. Next, Caryn Franklin, resplendent as ever, arrived on stage. It was a whistle-stop tour through the non-catwalk-based awards, including those for fashion marketing and promotion. I was pleased to see Northumbria added a few more to their metaphorical mantelpiece.

A host of celebs had turned up, and from my seat I could spot front-row regular Erin O’Connor (who later presented an award), Nicola Roberts of Girls Aloud fame (who has quickly swapped pop for paps, Fashion Week regular that she is). I even brushed past her on my way to the loo, and she is genuinely gorgeous in real life.


Another Nicola Roberts, illustrated by Antonia Parker

It’s always great to see the wonderful Hilary Alexander (who I had the pleasure of sitting next to at the Northumbria Show) who presented mature student Ellen Devall with the ‘First Word’ Journalism Award, because it left her ‘wanting to know more.’


Hilary Alexander, illustrated by Amy Martino

Another of my favourite spots was Barbara Hulanicki, who was here to present the Textile Award to Natalie Murray from Northumbria University. She’s utterly bonkers but gosh what a woman.


Barbara Hulanicki, illustrated by Abi Daker

Onto the main event – the Gala Show(case). I was thrilled to see many of the graduates we’d already talked about on the website appearing in this Best of the Best-style show, including Naomi New from Northumbria (one of my personal favourites from GFW as a whole) and Northbrook’s Rhea Fields.

The staging for this was incredible, and justified the ghastly white sheet that hung in the background for the first part of the show. It burst down to reveal a scaffolding set, where models pouted, lights flashed, and the music roared.

So, the winners then. With the inclusion of the International Show this year, it was great to see them honoured with an award, which must have been a great end to a fantastic week for International Students. The winner, Roya Hesam from the Amsterdam Fashion Institute won over the judges with her minimalist collection.

Pretty soon afterwards, out popped everybody’s favourite glamorous granny, Zandra Rhodes, to present her Textiles Award.


Zandra Rhodes, illustrated by Paul Shinn

The competition was fierce here – all were fantastic – but it was Anna Lee’s literally fierce collection of big cat prints that triumphed.

Dylan Jones, editor of GQ Magazine, presented Thomas Crisp of Ravensbourne with the marvellous Menswear prize, owing to his sleek, sophisticated tailoring.


Dylan Jones, illustrated by June Chanpoomidole

Rhea Fields (yay!) from Northbrook college won the womenswear award for her covetable collection and unique use of materials, presented by Mark Eley of Eley Kishimoto.


Mark Eley, illustrated by Lisa Billvik

So, the moment we’d all waited for (and in my case queued, sweated and been reduced to tears for) was the River Island Gold Award. God knows how the likes of River Island design director Naomi Dominique, Lorraine Candy of Elle and Kim Jones chose the winner, but it was down to fellow judge Alberta Ferretti to present the award.


Alberta Ferretti, illustrated by Paolo Caravello

And the winner was…

…Rebecca Thompson from Manchester Met! Thoroughly deserved for her inspirational collection. Alberta Ferretti proclaimed that Rebecca had triumphed because of her ‘unusual and interesting combination of fabrics and for the contemporary feeling of her collection’.

As the ticker tape covered Rebecca and her models, I thought to myself,’What a freakin’ fabulous week.’

Categories ,Alberta Ferretti, ,Amsterdam Fashion Institute, ,Anna Lee, ,Awards, ,Big cats, ,Britain’s Got Talent, ,Caryn Franklin, ,Diversity, ,Dylan Jones, ,Earls Court, ,Elle Magazine, ,Erin O’ Connor, ,Fashion Week, ,Gala Show, ,GFW, ,girls aloud, ,Gold Award, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,International Show, ,Kim Jones, ,london, ,Lorraine Candy, ,Manchester Metropolitan University, ,menswear, ,models, ,Naomi Dominique, ,Naomi New, ,Nicola Roberts, ,Northbrook College, ,Northumbria, ,Rebecca Thompson, ,Rhea Fields, ,River Island, ,Roya Hesam, ,Textiles Award, ,Ticker Tape, ,Womenswear, ,Zandra Rhodes

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: The Gala Show Finale!


Shinsuke Mitsuoka

The world of fashion is notoriously fickle and grabbing the attentions of a fashion crowd for any extended period of time seems tricky. Catwalk shows do their best with an array of light shows and thumping soundtracks which could sometimes do with a warning.

Nottingham Trent have prepared it all for their outing at Graduate Fashion Week with glossy door staff, medications designer goody bags and even a rather trendy loitering DJ (wearing a somewhat dubious puffa jacket). They’re raring to go, remedy but there’s just one cog in the works; a serious lack of bums on seats. Well, there is of course the age old excuse of being fashionably late, but even the pinched smiles of women ferrying around have started to crumble.

All becomes clear as a dull thudding bass infiltrates the theatre and the sound barrier takes a bashing as the trill of hundreds of screaming girls hit the roof. Apparently Tinie Tempah is a big deal (and from the glimpse I got, genuinely teeny Tinie). He’s had all of one song, which luckily for Nottingham Trent, he dispatches quickly, and soon a bustle of activity swells at the theatre doors. If Tinie didn’t make them ‘Pass Out’ (see what I did there? Here all week folks…) then the efforts of Nottingham Trent’s 2010 graduates will surely do their best to stun the senses. 

Nottingham Trent has a clear passion for encouraging students to experiment with unique techniques and textures in knitwear, producing a modern and varied aesthetic across the course. Their catwalk show oscillates between detailed, intricate knitwear and sleek takes on womenswear with bursts of energy injected at intervals by the likes of Emma Dick, showcasing sharp, graphic prints of televisions and arrows just at home in a museum of Pop Art as the runway. Integrated hoods give the look a futuristic feel but there’s a touch of the retro about her two-tone body con jumpsuit with a classic 1960s palette contrast between red and black.

Nottingham Trent keeps the volume turned up with Claire Hartley’s cutaway knitted one pieces, exposing flashes of green, yellow and red for a futuristic sci-fi look. Hartley’s dedication to forward thinking stretches beyond the aesthetics as she hopes to generate a new innovative, zero waste policy in manufacturing to ensure the sustainability and evolution of the clothes. 

By now Tinie’s long forgotten as each model stalks down the catwalk to puffa DJ’s painfully hip soundtrack. Nikki Lowe dazzles with gold lamé suits complete with built-in gloves worthy of an evil Jackie Collins penned character, but flashlight necklaces add a distinctive disco feel caught somewhere between the 1970s and the 1990s.

Miranda Boucher’s collection is a dark and luxurious celebration of femininity with plush midnight blue coats and velveteen details just obscuring the model’s modesty.  

Emma Philpot’s knitwear seems to grow from the models bodies, twisting and turning upon itself and forming knots and twists likes a chunky chainmail, while Tiffany Williams continues the fairytale edge with her menswear collection in dark, brooding colours and heavy volume that weigh on the shoulders as a hulking, masculine presence. Backs reveal shimmers of gold thread intertwined, adding a lighter side to the depth of her work. 
Jenna Harvey’s dresses change at every turn as each layer of tiny fabric is double printed and loosely set so as it moves a new picture is revealed. At times it feels like 3D glasses are needed just to keep up with the transformation before your eyes.

Meanwhile, Phoebe Thirlwall’s beautiful knitwear dresses, inspired by the intricacies of the skin, show a level of workmanship that is breathtaking under the lights of the catwalk. Each ribbed layer clings to the models with hundreds of different levels working together. Her hard work has clearly not gone unnoticed as her work was also photographed by renowned artist Rankin, a stunning portrait duly displayed in grand terms at Earl’s Court.


 
Izabela Targosz’s equestrian turn on tailoring injects some more colour into Nottingham Trent’s show, with jackets made with horsehair pockets and backs adding a silky but quirky feel. Riding hats are the natural yet perfect accessory to a collection that shows an equal strength in its attention to detail for an upheaval of the British tailored look. 

Shinsuke Matsuoka’s work is saved for the final spot and with the breathtaking effect of the garments, it’s easy to see why. Bondage style zips snake across panels of black hi-shine material; the sound of the clothes are a foreboding presence in themselves, but as six outfits stand together the models are transformed into an unnervingly attractive chain gang from the future. I’m not sure if it was this effect or not, but my camera also spluttered its final breaths at this point, perhaps overwhelmed by the power of Matsuoka’s collection.

In any case, it proved a spectacular way to end things and is not something I can imagine being trumped by Tinie any day soon.

Images courtesy of catwalking.com


Nicola Roberts, cheapest illustrated by Jenny Robins

So it was time to wrap up what was a pretty crazy week in the form of the Graduate Fashion Week Gala Show. After making arrangements for a ticket a while ago, I was bemused to find that at the door there was no sign of said tickets.

Perhaps it had been taken by another contributor? Unlikely. ‘Are you sure you’re supposed to be at this (star-studded) show?’ ‘Yes’ I said, ‘that’s why I’m wearing a bow tie’.

After a few quick radio calls, I was allowed in. Into Earl’s Court, that is – not into the champagne drinks reception. ‘Sponsors only’ was the reply when I asked if I could have a quick drinkie. ‘Sponsors only my eye’ I thought, as I recognised half the people in the fashionably-roped off bar area.

So I waited patiently at the entrance to the theatre. And waited.

And waited.

‘We’ll get you in,’ I was told. ‘Before it actually starts?’ I thought to myself.

As I waited I was entertained by a lovely student called April who could see my blood boiling – stood a little distance away to avoid the steam coming out of my ears. ‘After all I’ve bloody done this week,’ I thought to myself, and then said aloud to April, who quickly excused herself.

Finally I was allowed inside and ushered into a press seat, and, true to form at these events, there were three seats either side of me that remained empty. ‘Typical!’ I thought to myself, and then thought I really should stop thinking to myself so much.

With a few whoops and a whizz, the Gala Show kicked off in fabulous fashion, with Britain’s Got Talent champions Diversity. Fun. Next, Caryn Franklin, resplendent as ever, arrived on stage. It was a whistle-stop tour through the non-catwalk-based awards, including those for fashion marketing and promotion. I was pleased to see Northumbria added a few more to their metaphorical mantelpiece.

A host of celebs had turned up, and from my seat I could spot front-row regular Erin O’Connor (who later presented an award), Nicola Roberts of Girls Aloud fame (who has quickly swapped pop for paps, Fashion Week regular that she is). I even brushed past her on my way to the loo, and she is genuinely gorgeous in real life.


Another Nicola Roberts, illustrated by Antonia Parker

It’s always great to see the wonderful Hilary Alexander (who I had the pleasure of sitting next to at the Northumbria Show) who presented mature student Ellen Devall with the ‘First Word’ Journalism Award, because it left her ‘wanting to know more.’


Hilary Alexander, illustrated by Amy Martino

Another of my favourite spots was Barbara Hulanicki, who was here to present the Textile Award to Natalie Murray from Northumbria University. She’s utterly bonkers but gosh what a woman.


Barbara Hulanicki, illustrated by Abi Daker

Onto the main event – the Gala Show(case). I was thrilled to see many of the graduates we’d already talked about on the website appearing in this Best of the Best-style show, including Naomi New from Northumbria (one of my personal favourites from GFW as a whole) and Northbrook’s Rhea Fields.

The staging for this was incredible, and justified the ghastly white sheet that hung in the background for the first part of the show. It burst down to reveal a scaffolding set, where models pouted, lights flashed, and the music roared.

So, the winners then. With the inclusion of the International Show this year, it was great to see them honoured with an award, which must have been a great end to a fantastic week for International Students. The winner, Roya Hesam from the Amsterdam Fashion Institute won over the judges with her minimalist collection.

Pretty soon afterwards, out popped everybody’s favourite glamorous granny, Zandra Rhodes, to present her Textiles Award.


Zandra Rhodes, illustrated by Paul Shinn

The competition was fierce here – all were fantastic – but it was Anna Lee’s literally fierce collection of big cat prints that triumphed.

Dylan Jones, editor of GQ Magazine, presented Thomas Crisp of Ravensbourne with the marvellous Menswear prize, owing to his sleek, sophisticated tailoring.


Dylan Jones, illustrated by June Chanpoomidole

Rhea Fields (yay!) from Northbrook college won the womenswear award for her covetable collection and unique use of materials, presented by Mark Eley of Eley Kishimoto.


Mark Eley, illustrated by Lisa Billvik

So, the moment we’d all waited for (and in my case queued, sweated and been reduced to tears for) was the River Island Gold Award. God knows how the likes of River Island design director Naomi Dominique, Lorraine Candy of Elle and Kim Jones chose the winner, but it was down to fellow judge Alberta Ferretti to present the award.


Alberta Ferretti, illustrated by Paolo Caravello

And the winner was…

…Rebecca Thompson from Manchester Met! Thoroughly deserved for her inspirational collection. Alberta Ferretti proclaimed that Rebecca had triumphed because of her ‘unusual and interesting combination of fabrics and for the contemporary feeling of her collection’.

As the ticker tape covered Rebecca and her models, I thought to myself,’What a freakin’ fabulous week.’

Categories ,Alberta Ferretti, ,Amsterdam Fashion Institute, ,Anna Lee, ,Awards, ,Big cats, ,Britain’s Got Talent, ,Caryn Franklin, ,Diversity, ,Dylan Jones, ,Earls Court, ,Elle Magazine, ,Erin O’ Connor, ,Fashion Week, ,Gala Show, ,GFW, ,girls aloud, ,Gold Award, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,International Show, ,Kim Jones, ,london, ,Lorraine Candy, ,Manchester Metropolitan University, ,menswear, ,models, ,Naomi Dominique, ,Naomi New, ,Nicola Roberts, ,Northbrook College, ,Northumbria, ,Rebecca Thompson, ,Rhea Fields, ,River Island, ,Roya Hesam, ,Textiles Award, ,Ticker Tape, ,Womenswear, ,Zandra Rhodes

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Gala Awards Ceremony: Part One


Matthew Williamson by Ruth Joyce

Twelve hundred students descend on Earls Court Two for Graduate Fashion Week every year. About a quarter of them get the opportunity to showcase their collections during one of the 16 fashion shows that are held over four days. In a dramatic climax – the Gala Awards show – 10 students are selected to present their work for a second time in the hope of receiving the coveted Gold Award.


All photography by Matt Bramford

So, like the fashion industry itself, chances of making it are pretty slim. 10 incredible collections graced the catwalk in the finale and I honestly couldn’t pick a winner – celebrity judges like Matthew Williamson and Julien Macdonald commented on the incredible standard exhibited of not only those who had been selected as a Gold Award nominee, but every college.


Julien Macdonald by Claire Kearns

Here’s a photographic whistle-stop tour of the awards ceremony:

INTERNATIONAL AWARD


Yvonne Kwok – Amsterdam Fashion Institute


Zhu Liyuanzi – Istituto Marangoni Milan


WINNER: Karen Jessen – ESMOD Berlin, presented by Julien Macdonald, Sara Maino from Vogue Italia & Caroline Burstein from Browns.

STUART PETERS KNITWEAR AWARD


Emma Walsh – Nottingham Trent University


Jousianne ProppManchester Metropolitan University


Caitlin Charles Jones – Kingston University


Judges Ruth Chapman from Matches, Erica Peters from Stuart Peters and knitwear designer Mark Fast couldn’t decide, so Caitlin and Jousianne both scooped the award!

ZANDRA RHODES TEXTILES AWARD


Daisy Lowe by Ruth Joyce


Amelia Smith – Northumbria University


Dae-Byn Lee – Nottingham Trent University


Roz Lamkin – Manchester Metropolitan University


WINNER: Xiaoping HuangUCLAN, presented by Daisy Lowe and Mary Katrantzou

BARCLAYS NEW BUSINESS AWARD


Holly Reid – UCLAN, presented by Tabitha Somerset-Webb (Project D) and Michelle Mone OBE

FASHION INNOVATION AWARD


Ami Collins – UCLAN, presented by Lorraine Candy of ELLE magazine and designer David Koma

MEDIA & DESIGN AWARD


Kerrie Donelly – UCA Epsom, presented by Fashion Editor-at-Large Melanie Rickey and ID magazine‘s Jefferson Hack (swoon)

STAND DESIGN AWARD


Edinburgh College of Art, presented by designer Fred Butler and Harvey NicholsYuri Nakamura

GEORGE BEST OF BRITISH AWARD


Susanna Yi – University of East London, presented by TV presenter Caroline Flack and ASDA fashion director Fiona Lambert

GEORGE CHILDRENSWEAR AWARD


Harriet Simons – Colchester, presented by singer Louise Redknapp and Fiona Lambert

MULBERRY ACCESSORIES AWARD


Laura Smallwood – Kingston University, presented by Mulberry‘s Tori Campbell

ETHICAL AWARD


Sarah Murphy, Northumbria – presented by stylist Jocelyn Whipple and film producer/eco hero Livia Firth

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD


Legendary catwalk photographer Chris Moore, presented by designer Jeff Banks

Part Two, featuring the major players and the menswear, womenswear and Gold Award winners, coming soon…!

Categories ,accessories, ,Amelia Smith, ,Ami Collins, ,Amsterdam Fashion Institute, ,ASDA, ,Awards, ,Caitlin Charles Jones, ,Caroline Flack, ,Caryn Franklin, ,Catwalking.com, ,Ceremony, ,Childrenswear, ,Chris Moore, ,Claire Kearns, ,Colchester, ,Dae-Byn Lee, ,daisy lowe, ,David Koma, ,Earls Court Two, ,Eco Age, ,Elle, ,Emma Walsh, ,Erica Peters, ,ESMOD Berlin, ,Essex, ,fashion, ,Fiona Lambert, ,Fred Butler, ,Gala, ,George, ,Gold Award, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Harvey Nichols, ,Holly Reid, ,ID Magazine, ,international, ,Istituto Marangoni Milan, ,Jeff Banks, ,Jefferson Hack, ,Jousianne Propp, ,Julien McDonald, ,Karen Jesson, ,Kerrie Donnelly, ,Kingston University London, ,knitwear, ,Laura Smallwood, ,Lifetime Achievement, ,Livia Firth, ,Lorraine Candy, ,Louise Redknapp, ,Manchester Metropolitan University, ,Mark Fast, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,matches, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Melanie Rickey, ,menswear, ,Michelle Mone OBE, ,Mulberry, ,New Business, ,Northumbria University, ,Nottingham Trent University, ,Project D, ,Roz Lamkin, ,Ruth Chapman, ,Ruth Joyce, ,show, ,Stuart Peters, ,Susanna Yi, ,Tabitha Somerset-Webb, ,Tori Campbell, ,UCA Epsom, ,UCLan, ,UEL, ,Womenswear, ,Xiaoping Huang, ,Yuri Nakamura, ,Yvonne Kwok, ,Zhu Liyuanzi

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review, the winners

Flaminia Saccucci by Laura Warecki
Flaminia Saccucci by Laura Warecki.

Central Saint Martins showed for the last time at York Hall on Tuesday 31st May. I sat next to someone from L’Oreal – the principle course sponsors who fund the yearly awards show. There’s no wonder that Central Saint Martins fashion students are able to put on a professional standard graduate show, case what with the huge amount of monetary help that the course attracts. But there’s a reason why Central Saint Martins attracts the cash – the standard of design on show for 2011 was unremittingly high and in the next few blog posts I’ll pick out my favourites from an extremely talented bunch. First up, malady though – the winners.

Momo Wang by Karolina Burdon
Momo Wang by Karolina Burdon.

Momo Wang was the very deserving joint second runner up in an awards ceremony presented by Hilary Alexander and delivered by Meadham Kirchhoff and Sarah Burton. Or as Hilary put it: “You know Sarah; wedding dress, Pippa Middleton’s bum, need I say more?

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Momo Wang. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Her playful print presentation featured smiling girls with pigtails and balloons, bubble machines, dragon headgear and a mish mash of tribal influences thrown together in a unique and inspiring way. Super talented and with a refreshing take on the typical catwalk show.

Ivan Curia Nunes by Gareth A Hopkins
Ivan Curia Nunes by Gareth A Hopkins.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ivan Curia Nunes. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ivan Curia Nunes. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ivan Curia Nunes. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ivan Curia Nunes. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ivan Curia Nunes. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Ivan Curia Nunes.

Ivan Curia Nunes also came joint second, with his stylish sandy menswear, definitely one of the most instantly wearable collections on the catwalk.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia GregoryNicholas-Aburn-by-Victoria-Haynes
Nicholas Aburn by Victoria Haynes.

I hadn’t been so impressed with the cutting in Nicholas Aburn‘s collection, but maybe the first runner up was just unlucky enough to have been lumbered with the most gargantuan models in the show.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Nicholas Aburn.

He completely won me over by the time he had walked to the end of the catwalk, smiling like a little imp as the models towered over him in their 80s influenced tailored striping and printed outfits, topped off with some eye-catching wide rimmed hats.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryFlaminia-Saccucci-by-Rebecca-Elves
Flaminia Saccucci by Rebecca Elves.

First prize went to Flaminia Saccucci, who showed an extremely confident and unusual latex printed floral collection in shades of pink, green and yellow featuring tyre printed legs that continued racing over waistlines and across bosoms.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Flaminia Saccucci.

Sadly none of these students appears to have a website. Since this is a gripe that I fear I may have to repeat far too often over the next few weeks I’ll say it just this once during my reports from the Central Saint Martins show. Pffffff.

My next blog will be online soon because there was plenty more to get excited about from 40 graduating students.

Categories ,80s, ,Awards, ,Central Saint Martins, ,CSM, ,Flaminia Saccucci, ,florals, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gareth Hopkins, ,Graduate Shows, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Ivan Curia Nunes, ,Karolina Burdon, ,L’Oreal, ,Laura Warecki, ,Meadham Kirchhoff, ,Meadham Kirchoff, ,menswear, ,Momo Wang, ,Pippa Middleton, ,print, ,Rebecca Elves, ,Sarah Burton, ,Tribal, ,Victoria Haynes, ,York Hall

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Womenswear tailoring.

Tracey Wong  CSM by Laura Frame
Tracey Wong by Laura Frame.

Womenswear tailoring at Central Saint Martins centred around a classical monochrome base exemplified by James Nolan, malady who opened the whole show with a high collared nanny wielding a giant old fashioned pram. Models with pin rolled hair were lent a strict air with shiny tight leather gloves.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-James Nolan photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-James Nolan photography by Amelia Gregory
James Nolan. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Mathilde le Gagneur showed a floaty commercial collection of tie-waisted garments to traditional church music. I liked the twirly number at the end.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia Gregory
Mathilde le Gagneur.

Li Wai Yin was all about the block coloured tailoring. Pointy hats and overlong sleeves emphasised the strong minimalist shapes.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Li Wai Yin photography by Amelia Gregory
Li Wai Yin.

Khrystyna Fomenko presented a strong and highly wearable collection based on golden and pastel shades with wide palazzo trousers and multi height hem lines. We did an interview with Khrystyna Fomenko back in 2009 – why not take a gander and see just how much her style has changed since then!

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia Gregory
Khrystyna Fomenko.

Hannah Barr showed flouncy pleated and backless numbers in lacy blues and coppery knits.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Hannah Barr photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Hannah Barr photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Hannah Barr photography by Amelia Gregory
Hannah Barr.

Tracey Wong incorporated jutting beaded ornamental panels onto pastel and black dresses of intriguing proportions.

Tracey Wong by Laura Frame
Tracey Wong by Laura Frame.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia Gregory
Tracey Wong.

Christopher Tai’s collection was a bizarre ensemble of loose fitting pieces and unflattering wired accessories that curled up the arm.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Christopher Tai photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Christopher Tai photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Tai.

Satoshi Kuwata did ruched and draped pastels with interesting hem lines and button detailing. A very strong collection.

Satoshi Kuwata by Casey Otremba
Satoshi Kuwata by Casey Otremba.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Satoshi Kuwata photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Satoshi Kuwata photography by Amelia Gregory
Satoshi Kuwata. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Casey Otremba, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Christopher Tai, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Hannah Barr, ,James Nolan, ,Khrystyna Fomenko, ,Laura Frame, ,Li Wai Yin, ,Mathilde le Gagneur, ,Satoshi Kuwata, ,tailoring, ,Tracey Wong, ,Womenswear, ,York Hall

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | The 2009 Freedom To Create Prize Awards at the V&A

Dr. Naif Al-Mutawa Front cover - The 99Illustration by Naif Al-Mutawa courtesy of PagetBaker Associates

What do you do when your freedom of expression has been seriously hampered? What happens when an artist has to muster all the courage and strength in the world to plough on amidst censorship, viagra buy opposition, intimidation and threats? The Freedom to Create Prize aims to encourage and support artists all over the world who operate in a stifling climate where they are isolated. Created as “a celebration of the courage and creativity of artists around the world who use their talent to build the foundation of open societies, promote social justice and inspire the human spirit”1., this prize is unique in that it celebrates the power of art to fight oppression, break down stereotypes and build trust in societies broken by conflict, violence and misunderstanding.

image009Photograph of Moshen Makhmalbaf courtesy of PagetBaker Associates

There are more than 1,000 entrants from Africa, Asia, Latin America, eastern Europe and the Middle East and Human Rights advocate Bianca Jagger presented the main prize yesterday night to Moshen Makhmalbaf, the Iranian filmmaker dedicated to the Green Movement. “People of my country (Iran) are killed, imprisoned, tortured and raped just for their votes. Every award I receive means an opportunity for me to echo their voices to the world, asking for democracy for Iran and peace for the world.” Guests from the worlds of art and the human rights attended the reception in the grand surroundings of the Victoria and Albert museum. The prize is worth $50,000, but they give half to an organization that will advance the cause their work highlights. Representatives from Burmese refugee women’s group The Kumjing Storytellers who use giant paper maché dolls to represent their stories of ethnic persecution in Burma and the plight of migrants and refugees from around the world received the second place prize winner, The director from The Zugdidi Shalva Dadiani State Drama Theatre, David Alan Harris from Poimboi Veeyah Koindu and Sheenkai Alam Stanikzai were all there along with last year’s inaugural winner, the Zimbabwean dramatist Cont Mhlanga.

image002Logo courtesy of PagetBaker Associates

Set up by Richard Chandler, a billionaire New Zealand-born philanthropist based in Singapore, the arts prize shines a light into those parts of the world where creative freedom is not a given. This year alone, we have had the Obama cartoon in The New Yorker and Osama Bin Laden as a cameo on family Guy; there are societies in greatest need but these awards is a reminder that we must always remember not to take for granted the civil liberties we enjoy in this country. In 2006, a Kuwaiti doctor, Naif Al-Mutawa, launched a comic called The 99, featuring 99 superheroes, each based on a virtue expounded in the Koran. “Some of the more conservative places in the world weren’t so happy to let The 99 in,” he says.

Graham CrouchArtist Sheenkai Alam Stanikzai. Photograph courtesy of PagetBaker Associates

Women artists are showing strong pieces this year; Third- prize winner Sheenkai Alam Stanikzai has created an installation piece about the traditional suicide method of abused Afghan women: “I recognized the similarity between these ancient events and contemporary world events, so I decided to show my feelings about what is happening: more than 40 women are dying every day.” Pakistan’s Sheema Kermani entered a series of dance and theatre pieces about the veil, polygamy, sexual abuse and honor killings: For long periods, it has been almost like a life underground,” she says.

View-of-Installation-work-bInstallation by  Sheenkai Alam Stanikzai. Photograph courtesy of PagetBaker Associates

Judges in attendance included leading international human rights lawyer and jurist on the UN’s Internal Justice Council Geoffrey Robertson QC, BBC arts correspondent Razia Iqbal, Time Out founder and chair of Human Rights Watch Tony Elliot, and award-winning Anglo-Indian artist Sacha Jafri. Nick Broomfield presented the Imprisoned Artist Prize; Geoffrey Robertson QC presented the Youth Prize. And there was an enjoyable performance by Emmanuel Jal.

It is suitably symbolic that the awards ceremony took place in the UK, home of the Magna Charta as it shows that engaged artists are not alone in this fight. Prosperous societies are founded upon creativity. Britain has a history of encouraging artistic expression and is a leader in showing other countries how to build strong foundations for economic, political and cultural development in order to lead tomorrow’s world. Political cartooning is a great British institution that prides itself in rocking the boat and rightfully getting away with it! Freedom to Create is a worthy initiative; their desire to seek to improve lives by addressing society’s ability to support and sustain creativity is to be commended. In the end, everyone was a winner!

Categories ,activism, ,art, ,Awards, ,bianca jagger, ,exhibition, ,film, ,freedom to create, ,green movement, ,installation, ,Kumjing Storytellers, ,london, ,Magna charta, ,Moshen Makhmalbaf, ,Naif Al-Mutawa, ,nick broomfield, ,protest, ,richard chandler, ,Sheenkai Alam Stanikza, ,victoria and albert museum, ,women, ,women’s rights

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | The Barclaycard Mercury Prize – A Preview!

[insert header by katie harnett]

This September London Fashion Week enters the courtyard of Somerset House for its third season. Over the next week Amelia’s Magazine will be previewing both the on and off schedules, medications ambulance naming the designers to firmly keep your eyes on.

For our first preview we have selected designers who have been showing solo for less than six seasons and have already caused quite a stir within the fashion industry.

Hannah Marshall

You may already be aware of Hannah Marshall’s darkly bold shapes without being aware that you are watching a Hannah Marshall in Florence and the Machine’s music video: The Drumming Song. As an introduction it does not prepare you for the exquisite inkiness of Marshall’s colour palate or embrace of the female figure her clothes propose.

Hannah Marshall by Naomi Law

Watching her s/s 2010 show in an old post office building in Holborn, advice was breathtaking. As the models stalked through the space, ailment the inky blue effervesced in the dim lighting. Marshall’s a/w 2010 named ‘An Army of Me’ was a continuation of stark cuts along the shoulders, waists enhanced or lost by the cut of jacket alongside bodycon dresses produced in luscious velvet.

Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou has been experimenting with the boundary pushing possibilities of digital print since her a/w show 2009. The occasional harshness of the prints are softened through Katrantzou’s application of the technique to silk.

The collections are a celebration of the decorative and her clothes are littered with references to the excess of the Baroque or the Rocco periods of art and architectural history.

Mary Katrantzou by Meeralee

However it would be a mistake to confuse these prints as a gimmick, Katrantzou’s interest spreads to the cut of the dress, producing a series of structural tailoring which serve embellish the texture of her designs from short frocks to elegant gowns. Amelia’s Magazine welcomes the break from the increasing dominance of minimalism.

Michael van der Ham

Michael Van Der Ham’s described his a/w 2010 collection of dresses as 3D collages, through which multiple fashion references were stated by an insatiable contrast of colours, fabrics and textures. During graduate season earlier this year his design influence could be felt across the catwalks. What will s/s 2011 bring for van der Haam?

Michael van der Ham by Lulu Biazus

Louise Gray

Central Saint Martins MA Graduate, Louise Gray was a recipient of Lulu Kennedy’s and Fashion East’s ever on the button talent for spotting innovative designers. Gray showed with Fashion East before staging solo presentations with the support of NewGen.

A Louise Gray exhibition begins life at London Fashion Week almost completely bare, before exploding in riotious colour as the exquisite detritus from her presentations fill the space. The clothes, a combination of traditional stitch and embroidery create intriguing collections.

Louise Gray by Jessica Stokes

Amelia’s Magazine’s are delighted by Gray’s decision to stage the collection on a catwalk at On|Off for s/s 2011.

David Koma and Holly Fulton

For s/s 2010 Holly Fulton and David Koma. will share a catwalk, Amelia’s Magazine have been watching Koma since his debut as Fashion Scout’s merit winner a year ago this September.

David Koma by Stuart Whitton

Holly Fulton first blasted onto the scene as part of Fashion East for two seasons, before launching her successful solo a/w 10 collection at London Fashion Week in February 2010. Fulton’s monochromatic colour palate was interspersed with a healthy dose of pop art.

Holly Fulton by Francesca Bourne

The clothes structure referenced the Fulton’s interest in off duty/on duty French daywear crossed with the elegance of Dr Zavargo. Amelia’s Magazine found ourselves bewitched by the bold graphic prints bordering on the illustrative that adorned the collection.

Fashion East

For ten incredible years Fashion East have been at the forefront of spotting and supporting graduates who develop into ‘the’ sought-after designers of our generation.

Heikki by Gemma Randall

This year’s crop are as delectable as ever as Lulu Kennedy introduces Saint Martins MA graduate Simone Rocha and fellow Royal College Graduates Felicity Brown and Heikki Salone.

The excitement of a Fashion East catwalk lies in their ability to reinvent what it is to be feminine and this season is no exception.

For a/w 2010 Heikki Salone presented the tomboy, dressed in black cobwebbed knitwear, that you would wear until it crumbles finished with DM boots. A look -potentially- for fans of Janey from MTV’s hit TV series Daria.

Felicity Brown and Simone Rocha by Gareth A Hopkins

Felicity Brown’s delectable designs are a lesson in vibrant romanticism, a feat not surprising considering her training at Alberta Ferretti, Loewe Lanvin and Mulberry.

In contrast Simone Rocha’s monochrome MA collection displayed structured modern cuts interspersed with a playful nod towards femininity by her inclusion of netted fuchsia headpieces.

Amelia’s Magazine wait with baited breath to see all of the aforementioned designers collections for s/s 2011.


Laura Marling, buy illustrated by Natasha Thompson

The nominees:
Biffy Clyro ‘Only Revolutions’
Villagers ‘Becoming A Jackal’
Corinne Bailey Rae ‘The Sea’
Mumford & Sons ‘Sigh No More’
Paul Weller ‘Wake Up The Nation’
Wild Beasts ‘Two Dancers’
Kit Downes Trio ‘Golden’
Laura Marling ‘I Speak Because I Can’
Dizzee Rascal ‘Tongue N’ Cheek’
Foals ‘Total Life Forever’
I Am Kloot ‘Sky At Night’
The xx ‘xx’ ? 

Beginning in 1992 during the height of Brit pop cool, the Mercury Prize still exists to champion the best of British music. Judged by a range of musicians, journalists and executive muso types, the winners get a massive cash prize and usually see their album sales soar. Unless of course, they are one of the unlucky ones who fall victim to the ‘Mercury curse’, which will see them become a distant musical memory. A fate suffered by last year’s winner Speech Debelle. Or ‘Who?’ as you might know her.  

As the twelve nominated acts gear up for Tuesday night’s/tonight’s awards Amelia’s Magazine run through the shortlisted nominees. As usual some are well known, legends the likes of the ‘Modfather’ himself — Paul Weller, some have burst onto the scene just this year such as the banjo-loving Mumford & Sons, and some are less well known such as experimental jazz outfit Kit Downes Trio.  


The xx, illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

The xx and their debut album, the imaginatively named ‘xx’, are joint favourites along with Dizzee Rascal’s ‘Tongue N’ Cheek’. When you consider the young rapper has already claimed the prize once in 2003 for debut album ‘Boy in Da Corner’ it could be looking quite hopeful for the indie trio. The xx, infamous for their quiet unassuming indie anthems — a description that also fits the band’s demeanour – have enjoyed a brilliant first year. Winning fans on both sides of the Atlantic and among music stars and the public alike, they were perhaps a safe bet for a Mercury nomination. In fact much has been made of the rather impressive list of nominations this year. Important though the Mercury’s are to British music, there is usually criticism that the list is perhaps not representative enough, or trying to be too representative, or, that the judges are guilty of tokenism. 2010, however, sees one of the strongest line-ups of recent years. 


Mumford & Sons, illustrated by Natasha Thompson

Laura Marling and her beautiful second album ‘I Speak Because I Can’ will compete with boyfriend Marcus Mumford’s, of Mumford & Sons, debut ‘Sigh No More’. The boys have enjoyed a pretty meteoric rise to fame this year in contrast with Laura’s steady rise in popularity since she started winning over fans with her pretty folksy ditties as far back as 2007 — her album ‘Alas I Cannot Swim’ was shortlisted for the prize in 2008. And it could be argued that either Laura or the Mumfords would be deserving winners. After some thrilling performances at this summer’s festivals, 2010 really has seen folk rock re-enter the mainstream. 

Nominees Villagers and I Am Kloot also belong to the folksier side of British indie rock, the genre to which The Mercury’s remain the most faithful ever since the Brit pop days. Villagers enter the fray as total newbies with debut ‘Becoming A Jackal’. As beautiful as their songs are, eerie and driven by some powerful ‘80s pop influences, some critics argue that front man and chief songwriter Conor J O’Brien still has some scope for growth. I Am Kloot are definitely not newcomers; having come together from various bands in 200, Kloot are a mishmash of some of British music’s biggest names. Nominated album ‘Sky At Night’ was co-produced by former Mercury winner, Elbow front man, Guy Garvey.   

Villagers friends — Conor and co. have been touring with the Cumbrian group — Wild Beasts are next, with second album ‘Two Dancers’. It impressed fans and critics upon its release and is finding new fans all the time, possibly thanks to their sound belonging to a genre similar to a range of upcoming and forward thinking American outfits like Animal Collective, Yeasayer and Grizzly Bear


Biffy Clyro, illustrated by Natasha Thompson

Biffy Clyro
have been around for the best part of a decade but it is this year’s ‘Only Revolutions’ that made an impact on the Mercury shortlisters. Perhaps their increase in sales and fan base is largely down to the securing of admirers among the Radio 1 playlist compilers and consequently listeners, but their Scottish slant on stadium rock certainly appears to have taken off this year.  
 
Then to Corinne Bailey Rae’s moving second album ‘The Sea’, Rae admitted that many of the songs are about her late husband and the album would probably be up there among the favourites if the list of nominees was not as strong as it is. The follow-up to her million-selling eponymous first album ‘The Sea’ sees a shift from upbeat lounge-friendly soul to songs packing a whole lot more emotional punch and meaning, understandable after the tough couple of years that punctuated the recording of the two albums.  

Another Mercury act making a shift in styles between albums is, of course, Foals. Where 2008’s ‘Antidotes’ was all about bounding in with all guns blazing; guitars on the attack and punctuated chant-like vocals, 2010’s ‘Total Life Forever’ showcased another side of the Oxford five piece’s musical talents. This time round it is about quieter melodies, hushed voices and layers of instrumentation that gradually build into something really beautiful like in stand out track ‘Spanish Sahara’.  

Since going solo in the early 1990s Paul Weller has released an impressive ten albums, although always selling amazingly well none have particularly made much of an impact, apart from within the circles of his hardcore followers perhaps. His 2010 effort ‘Wake Up The Nation’, however, received some critical acclaim upon its release in April making the Modfather a deserving nominee for a Mercury. It’s the second time Weller has made the shortlist, 1993 album ‘Wild Wood’ made the cut in 1994 — the same year that saw M People controversially snatch the award from firm favourites Pulp. 


Kit Downs Trio, illustrated by Stéphanie Thieullent

And then to left-field nominees the Kit Downes Trio and their album ‘Golden’, perhaps proving that the Mercury’s can be guilty of a little tokenism after all? So maybe it was the case that someone on the panel felt the list was lacking an experimental jazz band, but actually the album is totally worthy of inclusion. Beautiful in its brave attempt to forge something different and new — it wouldn’t be that unusual for the Mercury’s if outsiders, the Trio, got the prize – unfortunately for them it could be the last we ever hear of them.   

Categories ,Awards, ,Barclaycard, ,Biffy Clyro, ,Corinne Bailey Rae, ,dizzee rascal, ,foals, ,I Am Kloot, ,Kit Downes, ,Laura Marling, ,Mercury Prize, ,Mumford& Sons, ,music, ,Nominees, ,Paul Weller, ,The XX, ,Villagers, ,Wild Beasts

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | The Barclaycard Mercury Prize – 2011 Nominees

Elbow by Natasha Thompson

Next month 12 acts will nervously wait to see if they will be announced as the Barclaycard Mercury Music Prize winner for 2011. The Mercury’s are well known for championing the best of British music and this year’s shortlist is no different. Many of the acts (like Adele) are not surprising but there are those lesser-known acts (Gwilym Simcock, here anyone?) and what’s exciting about the Mercury Prize is that the judges do have a tendency towards picking the act that no one suspected. Read on to hear about each of the nominated acts.

Adele by Natasha Thompson

Adele 21
Very much the favourite and it’s not at all surprising when you consider what a year it has been for Adele. Her second album 21 has smashed chart records and she has become a sensation across the pond too.

PJ Harvey by Claire Kearns

PJ Harvey by Natasha Thompson

PJ Harvey Let England Shake
PJ Harvey has already won one of these Mercury Prizes before 2001 for the album Stories from the City, site Stories from the Sea, visit this making her the first woman to win the award. Despite her incredible discography critics are lauding Let England Shake as Polly Harvey’s masterpiece.

Elbow by Natalie Hughes

Elbow Build a Rocket Boys!
By no means a new act but Elbow have come to the fore once again this year with their new album Build A Rocket Boys! and after storming their set at this year’s Glastonbury. If they won it would be the second time for Guy Garvey et al who were victorious in 2008 with their album The Seldom Seen Kid.

Tinie Tempah by Tom Casson

?Tinie Tempah Disc-Overy
One of the newer acts in the this year’s Mercury shortlist and joint fourth favourite to win, unsurprising as the star’s Pass Out as been a constant soundtrack to the past 12 months, no bad thing as it contains one of my favourite ever lyrics ‘I got so many clothes/ I keep some at my Aunt’s house.’ Genuis. He’s already won himself a Brit award, so he could well be on to track to bag the Mercury prize.

?Anna Calvi Anna Calvi
Anna Calvi has perhaps managed to ride into the music scene on the slipstream of big female acts like Florence and Adele but unlike some of her contemporaries, Calvi has bought something new to the table. Her big sound and ferocious guitar playing makes her a real contender for the Mercury prize.

Katy B by Cheryl Windahl

Katy B On a Mission
Like Adele, Katy B attended the famous Brit School, who are clearly doing something right. Katy B hasn’t quite taken off like her schoolmate but her mix of dubstep and R&B sound means she is standing out from the crowd

Metronomy The English Riviera
Metronomy have been around a while and although winning themselves a large fanbase they haven’t yet become mainstream – making them a perfect candidate for the slightly offbeat Mercurys.

Everything Everything by Emma Carlisle

Everything Everything Man Alive
Everything Everything are relative newcomers but have certainly made an impression and can often be found brightening up the radio waves with their single Photoshop Handsome. Their sound is good, old fashioned indie-pop, which could mean Everything Everything lose out at the Mercury’s.

James Blake by Cheryl Windahl

?James Blake James Blake
James Blake has made waves this year with his minimal electronia and moving album James Blake. It includes the blusey Limit To Your Love, which has got everyone excited about sustained pauses or the gaps between the notes as well as his futuristic sound.

?Gwilym Simcock Good Days at Schloss Elmau
The Mercury shortlist always contains a jazz musician and there are always rumours that the judges will shun the favourites and pick one of more obscure acts on the list. The talented Gwilym might want to hope that he isn’t picked as the Mercury curse could see his career stopped short, a la Speech DeBelle in 2009!

Ghostpoet by Chris Ross

Ghostpoet Peanut Butter Blues & Melancholy Jam
One of those hotly tipped artists for 2011 Ghostpoet is nominated for his album Peanut Butter Blues and Melancholy Jam. Full of laid back and melancholy electronica-laced tracks Ghostpoet hasn’t exactly exploded yet but you might recognize the single Survive It.

Categories ,Adele, ,Anna Calvi, ,Awards, ,Barclaycard, ,Elbow, ,everything everything, ,Ghostpoet, ,Gwilym Simcock, ,James Blake, ,Katy B, ,King Creosote & Jon Hopkins, ,Mercury Music Awards, ,metronomy, ,PJ Harvey, ,Tinie Tempah

Similar Posts: