Marta Spendowska – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Miriam Lehle of Prose Studio: New S/S 2012 Season Presentation Preview and Interview

Prose SS 2012 by Marta Spendowska.

I was very surprised and pleased to encounter German designer Miriam Lehle of Prose Studio at the stands during London Fashion Week in September. You may remember that I was most entranced by her rose covered A/W 2011 collection (read my interview here) but I was equally stunned by her skeleton influenced collection for S/S 2012.

Prose S/S 2012 Skeleton Lace Top by Farzeen Jabbar.

It was lovely to see you at LFW – what was behind your choice to present the new collection in the UK and was it a success?
First of all: I love London. It feels like a second home. But it’s also the home of innovative, internationally renowned young labels. Nowhere else is given so much support to young designers. We had great feedback, met a lot of interesting people and got lots of good press. We will be definitely back next season. It won’t work out without consistency.

Prose SS 2012 loose_leather_jacket_front
Prose SS 2012 print_dress_print_catsuit_2
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_dress_tight_strapless_front
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_lace_cape_loose_blouse
I love your use of different models in the look book – what inspired this choice and where did you find the models?
I wanted the new collection to be presented by people that have their own special something and are all beautiful because of their individuality. The cast of models is a potpourri: friends, neighbours and additionally we did a street casting.

Prose S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

The lace pattern has the effect of looking almost like bones and the whole collection has a tribal feel – was this intentional and are you happy with this interpretation?
Many pieces have names such as Skeleton Dress or X-ray shirt. The idea has been to adapt the lace to the body so that the natural shape and construction of the body is emphazised.

Prose SS 2012 skeleton_lace_top_front

Prose SS 2012 skeleton_shirt_dress_front
What inspired the colour palette, which is very neutral apart from a coral pink?
I wanted to focus on the way of using the lace and the combination of heavy and light materials, playing with transparency. I was not interested in using colour this season.

Prose SS 12 by Farzeen Jabbar
Prose S/S 2012 Skeleton Lace Top by Farzeen Jabbar.

Who do you hope will wear Prose S/S 2012?
The collection movie is the answer to that question. I’m not designing for a type. People can mix and match and adjust the clothes to their individual needs and sytle.

Where can we buy this in the UK?
The collection will be avaialble in New York, Paris and Italy. And online at Miosato.

Prose SS12 by Estelle Morris
Prose S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris.

Will we see you next season, and do you have anything special planned that you can share with us?
Definitely a beautiful new collection and hopefully presented on the catwalk! We are busy on working out the plans for next season.

Prose SS 2012 x-ray_dress_front
Prose SS 2012 x-ray_top_print_trousers

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday November 7th, 2011 11:56 am

Categories ,Estelle Morris, ,Farzeen Jabbar, ,German, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Miriam Lehle, ,Prose Studio, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,SarahJayneDraws, ,Skeleton Dress, ,X-ray

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Dans La Vie

Dans La Vie by Marta Spendowska
Dans La Vie S/S 2012 by Marta Spendowska.

On Sunday I attended my first ever Dans La Vie show with very little idea of what to expect, price but hey, viagra 100mg the invitation was a colourful mashup of imagery and in my book that’s generally a good sign. Dans La Vie is diminutive Japanese designer Rira Sugawara and began life in 1999 as a print collection, clearly her first love. Since 2005 she has been presenting a full clothing collection in Paris, Milan and Berlin – now it’s our turn in London.

Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie (SS 2012) by Barb Royal
Dans La Vie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

This seasons collection was titled My Pop Madonna (Clash Beauty), and her four signature print designs were inspired and sent down the catwalk to music by four iconic female musicians: Madonna (of course), Rihanna, Lady Gaga and the late lamented Amy Winehouse. According to the press release My Pop Madonna (Clash Beauty) was also a response to Rira Sugawara‘s feelings in the aftermath of the Japanese earthquake: it wasn’t exactly clear how these two seemingly unrelated strands of inspiration were intertwined, but the results were fun and refreshingly different.

Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

LFW SS12 Dans La Vie by Kristina Vasiljeva
Dans La Vie S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Rira Sugawara‘s Dan La Vie label specialises in a kind of glossy collaged look, which was manifested in the very first outfit to hit the catwalk: it featured a striking all over matching print on the blouse and a matching full shiny skirt that looked fit for the wettest of days. The collaged design included all sorts of intriguing elements: a Madonna face and florals mashed up into a striped pattern reminiscent of shifting ground. A cute shorts and blouse ensemble was followed by a wide belted trench that seemed more befitting of the patent fabric and was one of my favourite elements of this collection.

Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

dans la vie ellie sutton
Dans La Vie S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton.

A giant floral print entwined with floating cherubs featured on more separates and this was then followed by a powerful pink roses and hearts combo that spread to holdalls and clutch bags. The collection then switched towards the biggest collage design yet, featuring apples, daffodils and what looked like skyscrapers. This was accompanied by some unfortunate pastel lips and then for some inexplicable reason a model appeared with her tits poking out of an otherwise demure beige blouse. Aside from these strange styling decisions there were lots of fun elements to the My Pop Madonna collection, and many of the Dans La Vie separates could easily find a place in the wardrobe of someone with a bold and colourful aesthetic.

Dans La Vie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Dans La Vie S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

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Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday September 26th, 2011 12:37 pm

Categories ,amy winehouse, ,Barb Royal, ,Blow PR, ,catwalk, ,Clash Beauty, ,Clutch Bags, ,collage, ,Dans La Vie, ,Earthquake, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Fashion Scout, ,florals, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Glossy, ,hearts, ,japanese, ,kitsch, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Lady Gaga, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Madonna, ,Marta Spendowska, ,My Pop Madonna, ,print, ,review, ,Rihanna, ,Rira Sugawara, ,S/S 2012, ,Separates, ,Trench Coat

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jacob Kimmie

Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska.

I missed the Jacob Kimmie show last season but the fabulous cream and black elegance of his sophisticated collection for A/W 2010 is still etched into my mind.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

LFW SS12 Jacob Kimmie by Kristina Vasiljeva
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Jacob Kimmie‘s new collection was called Rhapsody and featured a huge number of beautifully constructed garments in signature monochrome, seek but this time with variation in the form of a grey dove print that appeared on white and black grounds to equal effect. Flocks of doves spread across skirts or down tiered chiffon dresses. Taking a brave step away from monochrome Jacob Kimmie also showcased the dove print in coy red.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Jacob-Kimmie-(SS-2012)-by-Barb-Royal
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Ah, clinic chiffon. There has been an awful lot of exposed nipple action this LFW and Jacob Kimmie‘s show was no exception. High necked Victorian school marm blouses with slouchy puff sleeves were given the sheer treatment – if only the women likely to afford these garments had such perky boobs. On other blouses bib like ruffles covered the bosom or a dapper rose appeared at the neck. Slim mesh panels up the sides and down the sleeves of long dresses were particularly clever. The contrast of sexiness and primness was emphasised with simple allusions to religion and virginity – a cross around the neck or a barely there netted cape.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

The show closed with an exposed bride, who sashayed down the catwalk under a diaphanous veil with an empty birdcage swinging at her side. The black models from the show posed in a row at the end of the catwalk as Jacob gave his final bow – as ever an incongruous figure, rotund and cheery in baseball cap, casual t-shirt and shorts – the antithesis of his designs.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

Jacob Kimmie is fast building himself a strong brand that is an alluring combination of prim and sexy. Rhapsody S/S 2012 was a beautiful and wearable collection that should appeal to buyers in spades.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/29193197" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/29193197</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday September 24th, 2011 11:18 am

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Birdcage, ,Bride, ,Chiffon, ,doves, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grey, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Mesh, ,monochrome, ,Nipples, ,Panels, ,print, ,Religious, ,Rhapsody, ,Ruffles, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sheer, ,Veil, ,Victorian

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Masha Ma

Masha Ma SS 2012 1 by Marta Spendowska
Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Marta Spendowska

She concluded her MA in Womenswear at Central Saint Martins only three years ago, page but Masha Ma has already a made a name for herself amongst London Fashion Week goers, visit web and is even one of Amelia Gregory’s favourites! True story. We therefore, capsule of course, made our way back to Vauxhall Fashion Scout to see what she’d been up to and what her S/S 2012 range had to offer.

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-003

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-004

In our interview with the award-winning designer last August, just prior to her London Fashion Week debut, Masha described her design agenda as ‘chic, modern arrogance and semi-couture’. Since then, we’ve seen her work evolve from her exquisite take on classic chic to what Amelia and I witnessed on that Saturday morning; a futuristic, bold mission into the female silhouette with accomplished fashion-forward detail.

Masha Ma SS 2012 by Meagan Morrison 1
Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Meagan Morrison

Inspired by the reconstruction of the famous Palace of Versailles, France, the collection displayed a combination of disciplined colours and textures juxtaposed with distressed sheers and unfinished edges. Most looks were slim, elegant, elongated assemblies with a tough sportswear vibe running throughout, complete with strategically placed zips, head gear and androgynous tailoring.

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-011

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-014

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-015

Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Kassie Berry
Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Kassie Berry

The show began with icy ensembles of muted blues and green pieces in numerous tones of mint and sea foam. For me, it was a stunning colour pallette which illuminated upon a delicate canvas of fluid silks, satins and sheers. These light references to an underwater odyssey (helped along by the gentle water sounds on the soundtrack) blended in-and-out amongst the Palace-inspired printed pieces. Thematically, the consistency did seem to lack. This, however, didn’t prevent me from finding the collection’s many contrasting elements equally delightful.

Masha Ma SS 2012 by Meagan Morrison 2
Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Meagan Morrison

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-022

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-023

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-033

Sheer white gauze skimmed down legs and clung loosely around calves, whilst delicate tight-pleated mini skater skirts in mint tones swayed across thighs. It was an unusually sexy composition that contrasted with smart, high-necked tailored shirts. Intelligent construction existed in the zipping together of a-symetric skirt and dress layers with other zips utilised as shaping detail to flatter the figure. The female silohuette was considered, embraced and pushed to new boundaries.

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-053

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-056

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-063

Masha Ma SS 2012 by Marta Spendowska
Masha Ma S/S 2012 by Marta Spendowska

Amongst my favourite pieces were the breathtakingly skilled coats that dominated the show, pre-finale. Original and dramatic in design, yet extremely wearable for the Spring/Summer seasons, I was being seduced into the idea of owning one of Masha‘s beautifully crafted outerwear pieces. (The matte-white one took my fancy; a girl can always dream.)

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-076

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-086

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-096

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-127

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-131

Masha Ma SS 2011 review-132
All photography by Amelia Gregory

As opposed to the radical design ethic that is so deep-seated in London fashion today, observing a collection so fine in detail and delicate in reference is something rare and refreshing. In her return to London Fashion Week for her third solo collection, Ma didn’t disappoint. In fact, it extended our vision as to her dress-making capabilities. With the art direction intriguing and beautifully illustrated, the construction unique and the detail impeccable, Masha Ma certainly (and, perhaps, unknowingly) reaffirmed herself as one of Amelia’s Magazine‘s firm favourites.

Written by Georgia Takacs on Saturday October 1st, 2011 12:34 pm

Categories ,Amelia Gregory, ,Blue, ,france, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Front Row, ,Georgia Takacs, ,lfw, ,LFW S/S 2012, ,LFW S/S12, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,London Fashion Week S/S12, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Masha Ma, ,Masha Ma S/S 2012, ,Masha Ma S/S12, ,Meagan Morrison, ,Palace of Versailles, ,pleats, ,print, ,sportswear, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Shumik 100% and Aga Pou

Aga Pou S/S 2012 by Marta Spendowska.

Time for reports from the last two shows of my trip to Poland… Shumik 100% and Aga Pou.

Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Shumik 100% S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I was utterly bemused by the Shumik 100% show – at the back of the catwalk a neon pink backdrop declared ‘Headwear Design‘ so I spent the whole show convinced that the bizarre hats – over the top feathered creations and ugly turbans in every conceivable type of wrap – were all that we were being shown. I thus paid very little attention to the clothes, an insipid and flimsy collection made up of sweetie coloured chiffon and shiny stretch fabrics. I was afterwards informed that the Shumik designers Karina Gozdz and Anna Leszkiewicz have been working professionally for several years and that IN LOVE was their first collection created together. Not impressed.

Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Much better was the last catwalk show of my visit to Fashion Week Poland, an angular affair from Aga Pou. For S/S 2012 she was inspired by cubism, using transparent fabrics to give the impression of blocks penetrating each other. Unfortunately I was late getting to the show and was only allowed to stand at the side which afforded me a dire view and severely limited my ability to take decent photos, thereby putting me in a foul mood since the collection seemed really quite impressive… all in all the Aga Pou collection was a pretty good way to sign out of the Polish S/S 2012 season.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday November 14th, 2011 12:03 am

Categories ,Aga Pou, ,Anna Leszkiewicz, ,Chiffon, ,Cubism, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,geometric, ,hats, ,Headwear, ,IN LOVE, ,Karina Gozdz, ,Lodz, ,Marta Spendowska, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Transparent

Amelia’s Magazine | Exhibition Review: Ghosts of Gone Birds

Margaret Atwood by Faye West.

Ghosts of Gone Birds. Have you been yet? This fabulous exhibition can be seen at the Rochelle School, Shoreditch up until the 23rd November. From there it goes on tour, so with any luck you will be able to catch it soon at a venue near you.

Gone Birds -albatross
Ghosts of Gone Birds is the brainwave of film maker Ceri Levy, who chanced upon the idea whilst making a documentary called The Bird Effect, which examines the effect of avian life on human life.

margaret-atwood-by marta-spendowska
Margaret Atwood by Marta Spendowska.

At the start of November I attended a special introduction to the exhibition given by the renowned writer Margaret Atwood, who just so happens be a massive fan of birds. She had just returned from a conservation trip to Madagascar, and on her way home she was enchanted to discover that the man at customs was a fan of vultures, of all things… it seems you just have to start the conversation and you will discover a fan of birds.

Gone Birds t-shirt design by Daria Hlazatova.

Her contribution to Ghosts of Gone Birds is a knitted Great Auk, which was made at a Stitch ‘n’ Bitch group in Canada using local wool. It’s eye is formed from a local Inuit bead and the Auk is a resident of the Canadian Arctic… so the use of materials and subject work in perfect unity.

Margaret Atwood emphasised the importance of the exhibition as a means to spread the message about the plight of birds beyond the usual enthusiasts. In the unfolding biodiversity disaster that we humans are currently inflicting on the planet birds have become one of the biggest sufferers. According to figures released by BirdLife International birds are now going extinct at a thousand times the natural background rate: that’s a pretty major disaster.

There are loads of great artworks in the exhibition, too many to show, so here are just a few of my favourites:

Angie Lewin - Double-Banded Argus
Double Banded Argus by Angie Lewin.

Ben Newman - Bishop's 'O'O
Bishop’s O by Ben Newman.

Reunion Owl by Billy Childish.

Gone Birds -Red Moustached Fruit Dove by Emily Sutton
Red Moustached Fruit Dove by Emily Sutton.

Jack Teagle - Black Mamo
Black Mamo by Jack Teagle.

Gone Birds -The Unsung Soldier by David Taborn
Detail from The Unsung Soldier by David Taborn.

Gone Birds -The Sound of Extinction by Philip Hardaker
The Sound of Extinction by Philip Hardaker.

Gone Birds -Empty Nest by Jackie Hodgson
Detail from Empty Nest by Jackie Hodgson.

Gone Birds -St Helena Hoopooe by Felt Mistress
St Helena Hoopooe by Felt Mistress.

Le Gun - The Tragic Demise of the White Gallinule
The Tragic Demise of the White Gallinule by Le Gun.

Full listing information can be found here.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday November 21st, 2011 9:50 pm

Categories ,Angie Lewin, ,Ben Newman, ,Billy Childish, ,BirdLife International, ,Ceri Levy, ,Daria Hlazatova, ,Emily Sutton, ,Faye West, ,Felt Mistress, ,Ghosts of Gone Birds, ,Great Auk, ,Inuit, ,Jack Teagle, ,Jackie Hodgson, ,Le Gun, ,Margaret Artwood, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Philip Hardaker, ,review, ,Rochelle School, ,Stitch N Bitch

Amelia’s Magazine | Album Review: Nicola Roberts – Cinderella’s Eyes

nicola-roberts-by-marta-spendowska
Nicola Roberts by Marta Spendowska.

Nicola Roberts has been slowing creeping into my consciousness… first there was the reinvention as a fashionista as we started to spot her sitting on the front row at London Fashion Week.

Cinderella's-Eyes-Nicola-Roberts-cover-art
Then there have been the two singles which steadfastly refuse to tread the usual girl band solo rubbish. Beat of My Drum features Nicola jumping around to a cracked up bass line courtesy of Diplo and Dimitri Tikovoi. With lyrics clearly inspired by her first ugly duckling days as the youngest member of Girls Aloud, seek it is resolutely individual.

Then came the genius pop tune that is Lucky Day, website like this produced by Canadian electropop group Dragonette and shot by indie director Stephen Agnes in New York with Nicola wearing just one outfit, information pills a ridiculously short floral tent dress.

Now for the album: Yo Yo gleans its big retro sound from many an 80s pop anthem. Cinderella’s Eyes is a more obviously pop record, though it benefits from some particularly high episodes where Nicola sounds the spit of Kate Bush (no really). Porcelain Heart is another big and potentially commercial dance number.

Nicola-Roberts-by-Lizzie-Mary-Cullen
Nicola Roberts by Lizzie Mary Cullen.

Then comes her collaboration with the magnificent Metronomy; I benefits from a typically off kilter arrangement which begins with ethnic sounding plinky plonks that slowly creep to life. The track never shies away from Nicola’s occasionally shrill falsetto, instead toying languidly with it before fading out.

Nicola-Roberts--Red-Dress
Everybody’s Got To Learn Sometime, originally by The Korgis, is the only cover on an album that is otherwise entirely penned by Nicola herself. She manages to give the 80s track a suitably modern electro twist and it is on this that her voice sounds at its best. Say it Out Loud is another floor filler with a driving beat that builds to a nice crescendo before dying away in a Euro stylee. Gladiator sticks with the same sort of dance vibe, but with the addition of some quite bonkers lyrics.

Nicola Roberts by Dana Bocai.

The Metronomy glitches are back with Fish Out Of Water, another song that harks back to Nicola’s less confident days. Take a Bite is a truly great tune, a real fighting anthem: check these lyrics. ‘Get your teeth round this open wide, Eyes bigger than your belly tonight, If you think you’re hard take a bite‘ and ‘Just because you’re twice the size of me, Doesn’t mean I’m scared of World War III, Sit back and grab a cup of tea, I’m gonna kick your arse now in 3D‘ As she states, ‘Everybody’s got a limit alright‘ and it looks like this deceptively frail looking woman reached hers some time ago.

Nicola Roberts Mushroom
The album ends on a the most downbeat song. Sticks & Stones covers Nicola’s hardest times as the most derided member of the band. ‘How funny that I was too young for so many things, Yet you thought I’d cope with being told I’m ugly.’

Nicola Roberts by David White.

I’ve always loved clever pop music and Cinderella’s Eyes most definitely fits the bill – it’s a great slice of off kilter ballsiness from the most singular and talented member of Girls Aloud.

Nicola Roberts Bench
It has been quite something to watch Nicola Roberts‘ transformation since Girls Aloud won Popstars: The Rivals nearly ten years ago. Looking back at the young girl who hid behind a thick smothering of fake tan, who could have predicted this outcome? Certainly not I… life really is full of surprises.

Cinderella’s Eyes is out now on Polydor. You can hear the whole album streamed here. But before you go, check out this brilliant b-side for Beat of My Drum.

Disco, Blisters & A Comedown.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday October 15th, 2011 12:20 am

Categories ,80s, ,Beat of My Drum, ,Cinderella’s Eyes, ,Dana Bocai, ,David White, ,Dimitri Tikovoi, ,Diplo, ,Dragonette, ,electropop, ,Everybody’s Got To Learn Sometime, ,girls aloud, ,Kate Bush, ,Lizzie Mary Cullen, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucky Day, ,Marta Spendowska, ,metronomy, ,Nicola Roberts, ,Polydor, ,Popstars: The Rivals, ,Sound of the Underground, ,Stephen Agnes, ,The Korgis

Amelia’s Magazine | Album Review: Nicola Roberts – Cinderella’s Eyes

nicola-roberts-by-marta-spendowska
Nicola Roberts by Marta Spendowska.

Nicola Roberts has been slowing creeping into my consciousness… first there was the reinvention as a fashionista as we started to spot her sitting on the front row at London Fashion Week.

Then came the genius pop tune that is Lucky Day, produced by Canadian electropop group Dragonette and shot by indie director Stephen Agnes in New York with Nicola wearing just one outfit, a ridiculously short floral tent dress.

Nicola-Roberts-by-Lizzie-Mary-Cullen
Nicola Roberts by Lizzie Mary Cullen.

Nicola Roberts by Dana Bocai.

Nicola Roberts by David White.

Cinderella’s Eyes is out now on Polydor. You can hear the whole album streamed here. But before you go, check out this brilliant b-side for Beat of My Drum.

Disco, Blisters & A Comedown.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday October 15th, 2011 12:20 am

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