Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Presentation Review: Jacob Kimmie


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

It wasn’t until the Jena.Theo show that I got my first hit of fashion adrenaline this LFW. The design duo Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis have created a Spring Summer 2011 collection that combines both the theatrical and the wearable in draped layers of silk and jersey, cost shot through with the Midas Touch. Gold leaf was applied not only to models’ eyelids and nails, rx but also to wrists, illness ankles, collarbones and occasionally a breast or belly button that happened to be exposed.

Though this would undoubtedly not go down well in the Muslim world today, culturally the show was a mix of the old Arabian Nights- or Prince of Persia to the computer game generation- meets 19th century British colonialism; models’ heads swathed in oversized turbans or hair backcombed into huge Victorian updos.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

The winners of Fashion Fringe 2009 struck a perfect balance between catwalk creativity and clothes with the potential to actually be worn in real life; with a wonderful take on a Victorian hoop skirt to finish the show. This is what I want from an LFW show; something fun and inventive as well as wearable clothes.

I sat with the team behind the new Young British Designers website, which champions the likes of Jena.Theo; keep an eye out on Amelia’s for an interview with them coming soon. Adriana was in fact loyally wearing an outfit by the design duo.

We were in the second row but got bumped forward into the front row when there were a few spaces at the last minute; which meant I managed to get a really good, close up look at the raw painted gold leaf stiletto platform shoes.

It also of course, meant goody bag ahoy!Ironically, for a fashion gift, this included one of the best brownies I’ve ever eaten; in fact many of the stalls in the LFW exhibitions have sweets or cakes on their stands, though you never see anyone eating them. Except me.Which is why you won’t see me bearing my gilded navel in an Aladdin-esque ensemble anytime soon.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

Jacob Kimmie S/S 2011, find illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

I’d really wanted to catch Jacob Kimmie’s S/S 2011 presentation at The Studio (wherever that was) but time was running out after Ashley Isham’s late runner and I didn’t think I was going to make it. Luckily, ed on my way to Kingston MA’s somewhat uninspiring show (more of that later) I managed to bumble past ‘The Studio’ which was moments from Freemason’s Hall.

On the door I was greeted by the smiliest person I had seen all day, and when you’re so exhausted that you fear you may slip into a coma at anytime, it’s a welcome break to meet somebody like this when you’re surrounded by miserable morons. I demand that this lovely girl, who I don’t know the name of, starts a School for Smiling and signs up half the PR girls at fashion week immediately.

The Studio happened to be at the top of 1001 stairs, which I was in no way prepared for. Luckily an equally smiley girl was poised at the top and provided water, which I assume was a condition set by the Health and Safety Executive.


The studio really needs to get its ceiling looked at. Tut, tut.

Anyway, inside the maze of rooms had been organised to take a one-way-system approach, and relatively normal looking models were perched in each room wearing Kimmie’s S/S 2011 collection. This was a far cry from his A/W 2010 collection of bold monochrome pieces. There was plenty of colour, the fabrics were more forgiving, and there was less emphasis on harsh shapes – but die cut sculptural accessories, created in collaboration with Alice Welsh and Fiona Ross, covered heads and arms and added a futuristic twist.

Silk trapeze dresses, graphic prints and floaty maxi numbers stood side by side with masculine tailoring with a futuristic aesthetic, tailored in wool crepe for that oh-so-luxurious look and feel. Sounds a bit odd ball but it actually worked – and the colour palette, of mint green, fiery florals and, of course, monochrome, brought the collection together.


Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

I particularly enjoyed this woman-of-the-future look, and actually if you strip away the conceptual accessories (if they’re not your bag) what you’re left with is exemplary and contemporary tailoring that is totally wearable but still fashion forward.

Menswear was on offer too, although this saw Kimmie go back to his grayscale ideals and didn’t stand out amongst blasts of vivid colour. I expect that, with a bit of work, this can be as satisfying as his well-received womenswear.


I’m still worrying about this model two days later. I think if I had pushed her, she would have fallen over straight up like a domino. I worry she’s still standing there right now.


Some perv filming up somebody’s skirt.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,Alice Welsh, ,Convent Garden, ,Felicities PR, ,Fiona Ross, ,florals, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,London Fashion Week, ,monochrome, ,S/S 2011, ,Smile, ,Stairs, ,The Studio, ,Trapeze dresses

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jacob Kimmie

Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska
Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska.

I missed the Jacob Kimmie show last season but the fabulous cream and black elegance of his sophisticated collection for A/W 2010 is still etched into my mind.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW SS12 Jacob Kimmie by Kristina Vasiljeva
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Jacob Kimmie‘s new collection was called Rhapsody and featured a huge number of beautifully constructed garments in signature monochrome, seek but this time with variation in the form of a grey dove print that appeared on white and black grounds to equal effect. Flocks of doves spread across skirts or down tiered chiffon dresses. Taking a brave step away from monochrome Jacob Kimmie also showcased the dove print in coy red.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob-Kimmie-(SS-2012)-by-Barb-Royal
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Ah, clinic chiffon. There has been an awful lot of exposed nipple action this LFW and Jacob Kimmie‘s show was no exception. High necked Victorian school marm blouses with slouchy puff sleeves were given the sheer treatment – if only the women likely to afford these garments had such perky boobs. On other blouses bib like ruffles covered the bosom or a dapper rose appeared at the neck. Slim mesh panels up the sides and down the sleeves of long dresses were particularly clever. The contrast of sexiness and primness was emphasised with simple allusions to religion and virginity – a cross around the neck or a barely there netted cape.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

The show closed with an exposed bride, who sashayed down the catwalk under a diaphanous veil with an empty birdcage swinging at her side. The black models from the show posed in a row at the end of the catwalk as Jacob gave his final bow – as ever an incongruous figure, rotund and cheery in baseball cap, casual t-shirt and shorts – the antithesis of his designs.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

Jacob Kimmie is fast building himself a strong brand that is an alluring combination of prim and sexy. Rhapsody S/S 2012 was a beautiful and wearable collection that should appeal to buyers in spades.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Birdcage, ,Bride, ,Chiffon, ,doves, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grey, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Mesh, ,monochrome, ,Nipples, ,Panels, ,print, ,Religious, ,Rhapsody, ,Ruffles, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sheer, ,Veil, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Jacob Kimmie

Waiting around for shows to start is one of the less interesting parts of London Fashion Week- unless of course you’re at Jacob Kimmie’s show where the designer had considerately placed two buff young men on plinths for our viewing, dosage clad in nothing but some strategically swathed white tulle. These classical living statues illustrated the ‘Martyr’ theme of the collection, this inspired by classical paintings and statues like The Borghese Hermaphrodite.

Illustration by Avril Kelly

But the twist on the nod to classicism was a 90s ‘street’ vibe, case harking back to a time when fashion became a form of protest. In fact, one glance at the audience showed that radical fashion is hardly restricted to the catwalk these days, with many a black-lipped attendee flying the flag for the days of punk and grunge. Jacob embraces the dark side in his muses, including True Blood’s Rutina Wesley and Lina Leanderson from ‘Let the right one in’ who he had in mind when designing.

Illustration by Avril Kelly

A number of different hair and make-up looks meant it was hard to maintain any illusion of consistency, but personally I found the variety a nice change. One group of models sported slick black eye make-up and burka-style sheer headresses revealing flawlessly toned muscular bodies, whilst another group had massive Helena Bonham-Carter-esque hair.

Whilst the collection was largely dark, splatters of red featured on the models themselves;an arm here a whole head there, and others sported silver, glittery nosebleeds. The prints on the clothes combined barbed wire and thorns to carry the Martyr theme throughout the collection.It felt tortured, it felt dark and it felt altogether timely for a recession ridden generation ready to make a statement through fashion.There was something decidedly old-school-Madonna about the religious references combined with a Gothic aesthetic; perhaps a new addition to Lady Gaga’s wardrobe?

Illustration by Avril Kelly

Photos by Katie Antoniou

Categories ,Avril Kelly, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,London Fashion Week A/W 2011, ,martyr

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Jacob Kimmie

Waiting around for shows to start is one of the less interesting parts of London Fashion Week- unless of course you’re at Jacob Kimmie’s show where the designer had considerately placed two buff young men on plinths for our viewing, dosage clad in nothing but some strategically swathed white tulle. These classical living statues illustrated the ‘Martyr’ theme of the collection, this inspired by classical paintings and statues like The Borghese Hermaphrodite.

Illustration by Avril Kelly

But the twist on the nod to classicism was a 90s ‘street’ vibe, case harking back to a time when fashion became a form of protest. In fact, one glance at the audience showed that radical fashion is hardly restricted to the catwalk these days, with many a black-lipped attendee flying the flag for the days of punk and grunge. Jacob embraces the dark side in his muses, including True Blood’s Rutina Wesley and Lina Leanderson from ‘Let the right one in’ who he had in mind when designing.

Illustration by Avril Kelly

A number of different hair and make-up looks meant it was hard to maintain any illusion of consistency, but personally I found the variety a nice change. One group of models sported slick black eye make-up and burka-style sheer headresses revealing flawlessly toned muscular bodies, whilst another group had massive Helena Bonham-Carter-esque hair.

Whilst the collection was largely dark, splatters of red featured on the models themselves;an arm here a whole head there, and others sported silver, glittery nosebleeds. The prints on the clothes combined barbed wire and thorns to carry the Martyr theme throughout the collection.It felt tortured, it felt dark and it felt altogether timely for a recession ridden generation ready to make a statement through fashion.There was something decidedly old-school-Madonna about the religious references combined with a Gothic aesthetic; perhaps a new addition to Lady Gaga’s wardrobe?

Illustration by Avril Kelly

Photos by Katie Antoniou

Categories ,Avril Kelly, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,London Fashion Week A/W 2011, ,martyr

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Jacob Kimmie

Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.

I knew nothing about South African born Jacob Kimmie before reading Rachael Oku’s excellent interview with him on this very website, advice posted just prior to London Fashion Week. Jacob Kimmie is self-taught and has made a name for himself through sheer hard work and determination – he believes that this, and not a university training, has brought him to where he is today.

In yet another room in the Tardis-like Freemasons’ Hall I was seated behind lady Baby-leg once more, proudly placed on the front row like the reining mascot of cool.

Baby-leg Girl at Jacob Kimmie.
Baby-leg Girl at Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Tim Adey. I have got a pen in my mouth.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Close up of the BABY-LEGS.

Unfortunately her pouffed hair (re-pouffed several times to maintain volume through the short catwalk show) obscured much of my view, but I can tell you that Kimmie’s Pilgrim show started with a hooded lady.

jacob kimmie
Photography by Tim Adey.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Jacob Kimmie hooded lady. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

This polo-neck was seriously out of control. “Spiritual & Enlightened & Monastic” was the header to the slip of paper on our seats; a mammoth amount to encompass in one collection surely; and all this inspiration from hearing just one funky tune! (read Rachael’s interview for more on Kimmie’s inspiration). Indeed, veils worn by several of the models did a fair job of creating a beautifully elegant and oddly monastic silhouette alongside knits and marabous in fabulous monochrome black and cream swing shapes, all worn by ladies adorned in the most delightful cutaway butterfly masks, designed in leather by Ginta Siceva.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The best was reserved for last though, when a lady in a long white dress calming glided out bearing a surprised but placid baby in a beautiful metallic pearlised papoose. You should have heard the coos. Now where can we buy one of those?

Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.
Jacob Kimmie by Gemma Milly.

Jacob Kimmie. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Oops-a-daisy!

Categories ,Baby, ,Baby-leg girl, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Ginta Siceva, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,leather, ,Pilgrim, ,spiritual

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