Amelia’s Magazine | Royal College of Art: Fashion Design Graduate Show 2011 review. Womenswear.

Philipp Schueller by Casey Otremba
Philipp Schueller by Casey Otremba.

It’s time to meet the rest of the RCA graduating womenswear designers… so much talent amongst this lot, clinic but who will the be the ones who make it? Your guess is as good as mine.

RCA - Hao Feng Li by Kristina Vasiljeva
Hao Feng Li by Kristina Vasiljeva.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Hao Feng Li photography by Amelia Gregory
Hao Feng Li opted to explore the furthest boundaries of pleats, thumb cascading out of dresses, visit this site exploding out of arms and swirling around legs.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Sayaka Kamakura photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sayaka Kamakura photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sayaka Kamakura photography by Amelia Gregory
Shapes for Sayaka Kamakura‘s collection were clean and simple, asymmetric sculpturing sweeping into shrouded shapes in luminous orange. Find Sayaka Kamakura online here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Amelie Marciasini photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Amelie Marciasini photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Amelie Marciasini photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Amelie Marciasini photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Amelie Marciasini photography by Amelia Gregory
Amelie Marciasini did the fur thing, this time in a riot of over-dyed fluorescent colours. Which once again begs the question, why? Surely fake does the job just as well, especially in a collection that pushed the boundaries of good taste. Just because Russian oligarchs have a lot of money does not make it a good idea to pander to their sense of style…

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Katie Hildebrand photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Katie Hildebrand photography by Amelia Gregory
Katie Hildebrand collaborated with textiles designers Amelia Mullins and Andrew Kenny on a sophisticated collection that featured sheer wrap tops in shimmering greens or encrusted with tumbling beads. She has the basics of a web presence – find her here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Nicola Morgan photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Nicola Morgan photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Nicola Morgan photography by Amelia Gregory
Nicola Morgan produced a very interesting collection focused on svelte tailoring techniques and integral beaded shaping. Nicola Morgan has the beginnings of a nice website where you can see previous collections.

Abbnit Nijjar by Sandra Contreras beigeAbbnit Nijjar by Sandra Contreras blackAbbnit Nijjar by Sandra Contreras red
Abbnit Nijjar by Sandra Contreras.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Abnit Nijjar photography by Amelia Gregory
Abnit Nijjar explored the layering of fabrics, sometimes in different block shades and with protruding patterns of overlaid perspex.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Saskia Schijen photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Saskia Schijen photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Saskia Schijen photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Saskia Schijen photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Saskia Schijen photography by Amelia Gregory
I really liked Saskia Schijen‘s relaxed approach: sheer tops worn with wide legged trousers and big belts, oversized cardigans floating on top.

April Schmitz by Karolina Burdon
April Schmitz by Karolina Burdon.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-April Schmitz photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-April Schmitz photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-April Schmitz photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-April Schmitz photography by Amelia Gregory
April Schmitz used leather to create knotted fringing that swooshed from shoulders and dangled from waists in deep jewel colours.

RCA_Philipp_Schueller_by_Katie_Woodger
Philipp Schueller by Katie Woodger.

Philipp Schueller Graduate Fashion Week 2011 by Sarah Harman
Philipp Schueller by Sarah Harman.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Philipp Schueller photography by Amelia Gregory
Philipp Schueller apparently took inspiration from the psychedelic 60s and the rave-tastic 80s to produce his phosphorescent collection of plastic, sheer, fake fur, ruffled, over the top, eye catching garments… fit for the most extravert of songstrels.

RCA_Sarah_Seaton_Burridge_by_Katie_Woodger
Sarah Seaton-Burridge by Katie Woodger.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Sarah Seaton-Burridge photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sarah Seaton-Burridge photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sarah Seaton-Burridge photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sarah Seaton-Burridge photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sarah Seaton-Burridge photography by Amelia Gregory
Sarah Seaton-Burridge also used fringing alongside laser cut layers and monochrome prints evocative of wild animal pelts.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Smit photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Smit photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Anna Smit photography by Amelia Gregory
Anna Smit produced a series of round shouldered coats and dresses with an intriguing print that merged contrasting colours in the manner of an airbrush. This was a seriously beautiful and original collection. Visit Anna Smit on her website here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Itziar Vaquer photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Itziar Vaquer photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Itziar Vaquer photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Itziar Vaquer photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Itziar Vaquer photography by Amelia Gregory
Last but very much not least Itziar Vaquer showed an astonishing collection of pearlised plastic slouch shoulder capes and dresses. It shouldn’t have worked but it did, with bells on.

Like I said, your guess is as good as mine…

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Abnit Nijjar, ,Amelia Mullins, ,Amelie Marciasini, ,Andrew Kenny, ,April Schmitz, ,Casey Otremba, ,Hao Feng Li, ,Itziar Vaquer, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Katie Hildebrand, ,Katie Woodger, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Nicola Morgan, ,Oligarch, ,Philipp Schueller, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Sarah Harman, ,Sarah Seaton-Burridge, ,Saskia Schijen, ,Sayaka Kamakura

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Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: Oversized and Bulbous

Dominika Piekutowska Swed by Lesley Barnes
Dominika Piekutowska Swed by Lesley Barnes.

There was a lot of bold egg like shapes going on at the Golden Thread awards. Bulbous shoulders, cost plump skirts, rotund headpieces, you name it. Some of it worked, some of it didn’t. A word to the braver fashion designers of the world: make sure that your idea looks good on a moving model. It’s kind of important when it comes to clothing.

Dominika Piekutowska Swed by Alia Gargum
Dominika Piekutowska Swed by Alia Gargum.

Dominika Piekutowska Swed
Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Piekutowska Swed Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
I really liked Dominika Piekutowska Swed‘s minimal collection of carefully constructed creamy shapes that called to mind the delicate design of butterfly wings, insect scales and coral, all put together with a dash of silver leather. Very wearable in many ways but with a strong innovative edge. I’ll be very interested to watch her career progress.

Renata ‘Miyabi’ Molik
Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Renata Miyabi Molik Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Renata ‘Miyabi’ Molik obviously aspires to dress dear Lady Gaga. With their hands planted firmly on their hips the models paraded a series of sculptural bodies in metallic finishes with strange jutting padded scissor handles for shoulders. Fun for editorial.

Igor Galas AW 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Igor Galas AW 2011 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Igor Galas
Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Igor Galas Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Croatian designer Igor Galas showed a predominantly brown and oatmeal collection that featured some truly frightening menswear (more burly male models with hairy thighs in hotpants. gah). For women there were some successful puffy tulip shaped knitwear garments, but in what looked like cotton they didn’t work so well – ideas that may have looked good on a drawing board were rendered far less flattering on the catwalk.

Laura Holeczek
Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Laura Holeczek Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Laura Holeczek is probably best glossed over as quickly as possible: this fashion nightmare was set to Bollywood music and featured a total mishmash of traditional styles plucked with random from across the world. Men and women wore harem pants, clogs and headwear inspired by Morocco and, erm, Holland. This was pantomime costume not fashion; there was potential buried in there somewhere but it needed so much more development.

Martyna Idzikowska
Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Martyna Idzikowska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Martyna Idzikowska sent out a great collection that featured huge egg shaped layered dresses accessorised with blood red encasing neck braces and red slashed under layers. But again, a major quibble with the way the fabric moved when the models walked. Strange lumps and bumps appeared where on a mannequin all must have looked fabulously shaped. A problem to be overcome for the next collection?

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Bollywood, ,Croatian, ,Dominika Piekutowska Swed, ,Egg, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,holland, ,Igor Galas, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Lady Gaga, ,Laura Holeczek, ,Lesley Barnes, ,Lodz, ,Martyna Idzikowska, ,Morocco, ,Renata ‘Miyabi’ Molik, ,Sculptural, ,The Golden Thread, ,Złota Nitka

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Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: The Pastel, Petrol and Beige

Paulina_Matuszelanska_Fashion_Week_Poland_Soni_Speight
Paulina Matuszelanska by Soni Speight.

These three designers showed collections in tones of pastels, information pills petrol and beige.

Gareth A Hopkins Marta Gos Golden Thread
Marta Gos by Gareth A Hopkins.

Marta Gos
Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Marta Gos Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Marta Gos had fun with holes and dangling bits. The strange armour-like silhouettes were rendered wearable in a creamy pastel and buttermilk colour palette.

Paulina Matuszelanska AW'11 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Paulina Matuszelanska by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Paulina Matuszelanska
Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Paulina Matuszelanska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Paulina Matuszelanska showed a very strong collection in lemon yellow, medical camel, mint green and powder blue. There were boxy shoulders aplenty, maxi length pleats and fluffy cropped jumpers – this catwalk show was a rare example of good styling, with slicked back high ponytails and chunky colour block necklaces completing the look. Definitely one of my favourites. Many of the clothes were stuff that I might actually want to wear, hurrah!

Alicja Antoszczyk by Alia Gargum
Alicja Antoszczyk by Alia Gargum.

Alicja Antoszczyk
Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011Alicja Antoszczyk Golden Thread ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011
Alicja Antoszczyk sent all her models out with hands slipped nonchalantly into pockets. Long rain macs and calf length skirts came in dull gold and petrol blue matt plastic fabrics. Black, powder blue and rosy red lent colour to the remaining layered pieces. A very strong and coherent collection.

Categories ,80s, ,Alia Gargum, ,Alicja Antoszczyk, ,Beige, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Lodz, ,Marta Gos, ,pastels, ,Paulina Matuszelanska, ,Plastic, ,Soni Speight, ,The Golden Thread

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ming Pin Tien: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Ming Pin Tien SS13 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Ming Pin Tien S/S 2013 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

This season’s hotly anticipated Ones to Watch show opened with the clothes of Ming Pin Tien, a graduate of the London College of Fashion. The Taiwanese designer put on a great show, with a diverse collection that featured graphic prints, sharp tailoring and conceptual textures.

Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
First out a were range of layered pieces with a sort of tyre track design up the back: a placement print (they’re hot right now) that traversed all the garments being worn. His next print was artfully jagged in black, russet and maroon on a cream ground, then a starburst pattern erupted with stylish intent across a collar.

Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Colours that don’t normally match were thrown together: khaki green, lime, aquamarine, skin and russet. Gathered crop tops with back flaps and cropped trousers left no hiding place for the midriff. Flaps are big this season: that and swing shapes and double breasted styling, all of which were present and correct in this on trend collection. His final garment was a stunning overcoat which appeared to be constructed from leather strips fastened together with hoops and rivets. There were lots of ideas going on here without it seeming overly messy and complex: I can’t wait to see how this designer develops.

Ming Pin Tien S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker.
Ming Pin Tien S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker.

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Fashion Scout, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London College of Fashion, ,Ming Pin Tien, ,Ones To Watch, ,S/S 2013, ,Taiwanese

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sharon Farrow
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sharon Farrow.

It’s always difficult to follow up a much feted graduation collection: so I had to admire the spunk of Nova Chiu… who seemed to grab the task with relish for S/S 2013. The show opened with images of the open road, waterfalls and trees, setting the scene for what was to come. Rather than reproducing the extravagant layering of last season, the duo concentrated on the creation of some truly stunning placement prints, inspired by their travels around the world.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Loosely draped silk dresses and separates came in a range of cuts; strapless, bat sleeved, cropped, mullet hemmed and tasselled. But the tailoring took second place to the stunning colour combinations chosen to depict fantasy landscapes. Clouds scudding across open skies, water cascading over piled rocks, rustling autumnal trees, fiery sunsets – all seemed to acquire an otherworldly neon Nova Chiu tint.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Shy Illustrations
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sheilagh Tighe aka Shy Illustrations.

The outfits were worn with colour matched platform high heels, some covered with oodles of tiny ruffles. Nova Chiu‘s trademark embellishments appeared on miniature barrel bags and in the form of bold jewels by Marina Prokopiva at neck, wrists and ears. The models came in a range of sizes that included sexily curvy, an admirable choice that highlighted the wearability of the garments.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

The diminutive Nova made a brief appearance on the catwalk at the end with her partner Jeff Archer. I hope that they are pleased that with the Bon Voyage collection they have retained their signature colourful drama whilst exploring new production techniques so successfully.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Bon Voyage, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Jeff Archer, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,Marina Prokopiva, ,Nova Chiu, ,S/S 2013, ,Sharon Farrow, ,Sheilagh Tighe, ,Shy Illustrations

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sharon Farrow
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sharon Farrow.

It’s always difficult to follow up a much feted graduation collection: so I had to admire the spunk of Nova Chiu… who seemed to grab the task with relish for S/S 2013. The show opened with images of the open road, waterfalls and trees, setting the scene for what was to come. Rather than reproducing the extravagant layering of last season, the duo concentrated on the creation of some truly stunning placement prints, inspired by their travels around the world.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Loosely draped silk dresses and separates came in a range of cuts; strapless, bat sleeved, cropped, mullet hemmed and tasselled. But the tailoring took second place to the stunning colour combinations chosen to depict fantasy landscapes. Clouds scudding across open skies, water cascading over piled rocks, rustling autumnal trees, fiery sunsets – all seemed to acquire an otherworldly neon Nova Chiu tint.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Shy Illustrations
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sheilagh Tighe aka Shy Illustrations.

The outfits were worn with colour matched platform high heels, some covered with oodles of tiny ruffles. Nova Chiu‘s trademark embellishments appeared on miniature barrel bags and in the form of bold jewels by Marina Prokopiva at neck, wrists and ears. The models came in a range of sizes that included sexily curvy, an admirable choice that highlighted the wearability of the garments.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

The diminutive Nova made a brief appearance on the catwalk at the end with her partner Jeff Archer. I hope that they are pleased that with the Bon Voyage collection they have retained their signature colourful drama whilst exploring new production techniques so successfully.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Bon Voyage, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Jeff Archer, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,Marina Prokopiva, ,Nova Chiu, ,S/S 2013, ,Sharon Farrow, ,Sheilagh Tighe, ,Shy Illustrations

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Aminaka Wilmont

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

The title Changeling on the poster-sized invitation to Aminaka Wilmont’s show – the last womenswear show in the BFC show space at Somerset House during this London Fashion Week’s season – already prepared me, cost before actually seeing the collection, illness for some allusions to legends and folklore. Of course the designers behind the Aminaka Wilmont, Maki Aminaka Löfvander and Marcus Wilmont have a wealth of such otherworldly inspiration to draw from their Swedish, Japanese and Danish cultural backgrounds.

Aminaka Wlimont LFW SS12 by MattBramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Kristina Vasiljeva

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva

The first thing that struck me when the show begun was the way the models had their hair styled with a mid-parting and straight bands of hair placed hanging in front of their ears, which immediately reminded me of Neyriti’s hairstyle in the movie Avatar.

Aminaka Willmont show LFW SS12 by Gemma Sheldrake

Aminaka Willmont S/S 2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

Interestingly, afterwards I read that Aminaka Wilmont were partly inspired for their Spring Summer 2012 collection by Ori Gersht’s photographs of dark landscapes and high mountains which look very much like Pandora’s Hallelujah Mountains in Avatar. The dove grey tones we saw in a lot of the outfits evoked the colour of karst limestone formations found in some of Gersht’s work and on the chinese Huang Shan Mountains which inspired the Hallelujah Mountains.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Perhaps following this line of thought, the designers had placed white orchids – which often grow under geological conditions such as those described above – on the front row seats while the pure white colour, and innocence of the flower was reflected in a number of simple white chiffon dresses.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Vasare Nar

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Vasare Nar

Violets and shades of brown dominated in abstract floral prints where again one could see Ori Gersht’s influence. Jersey assymetrical dresses featured cut out panels and custom-made Merve Tuna shoes came in mermaid blues and greens that alluded to creatures of an ambiguous identity. I really enjoyed the chain vial necklaces that contained something which looked like a magic potion in various bright colours.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

In line with this ambiguity of the theme of the Changeling was also the duality expressed through the use of leather in the jackets versus sheer chiffon in the dresses and skirts as well as through some bottom halves that were pants-length versus long trains hanging at the back. Indeed here I should add that I felt one should really own an otherworldly pair of legs or simply be a fairy to be able to sport some of the shorter pieces…

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Of course the most beautiful and startling contrast was between the masculine/aggressive and feminine which was revealed in the final pieces in the collection; floral printed body armour pieces with 3D flower forms sewn onto them as if the armour was blossoming. Intriguingly the designers cite as an inspiration ‘the Hayflick effect’ or limit – which is the number of times a normal cell population will divide before it stops – and I thought that at times the models looked, walked and had an expression on their faces, especially at the end when they all walked together in a huddle, like they were hopefull warriors or amazons – perhaps determined to survive in a world where the cells do not have that many more times left to divide?

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

All photography by Matt Bramford and Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,Aggressive, ,Aminaka Wilmont, ,Armour, ,Avatar, ,british fashion council, ,Changeling, ,Chiffon, ,collection, ,Danish, ,Dress, ,fairytales, ,fashion, ,Feminine, ,Folklore, ,Gemma Sheldrake, ,Hairstyle, ,Hayflick Limit, ,Jackets, ,japanese, ,jersey, ,Karst limestone, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,leather, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maki Aminaka Lofvander, ,Marcus Wilmont, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masculine, ,Matt Bramford, ,Merve Tuna, ,Necklaces, ,Neytiri, ,Orchids, ,Ori Gersht, ,Swedish, ,Vasare Nar, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Ashish

Ashish S/S 2012-by-Antonia-Parker
Ashish S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

There aren’t many designers who make me so excited I can hardly breathe, page but that tends to be a side effect of watching an Ashish catwalk show. Out they came, a stream of beautiful girls dressed in brightly coloured sequinned floral creations… except this being Ashish flowers were not staid or overly girly.

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish-S-S12-by-Antonia-Parker
Ashish S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

Sunflowers were emblazoned against monochrome stripes, giant daisies ran riot, roses and primroses entwined, glossy orange lilies had stamens the size of forearms, a blouse was printed with marigolds and offset against a mini skirt in a bold brick design. There were chequerboards and zebra stripes, zigzags and leopard spots. Bright neon grounds gave a bolder edge to curling florals.

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Paloma Faith was sporting an Ashish jacket on the front row.

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester
Ashish S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester.

Girls were styled to perfection by Celestine Cooney in DMs and straw fedoras with loose plaits, glittery eyes and dark glossy lips. Flowers popped out of boots, circling elegant calves in sprigs that dropped petals in a trail along the catwalk.

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW SS12 Ashish by Kristina Vasiljeva
Ashish S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

As each outfit came out I just about managed to contain my excitement, imagining just how easy it would be to wear these beautiful clothes: simple shift dresses with cowl backs, drawstring waisted shorts, casual t-shirts and floppy collared jackets that would suit women of all shapes and sizes.

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish-by-Kate-Eldridge
Ashish S/S 2012 by Kate Eldridge.

Le Jardin d’Ashish was everything that Ashish does best: using signature sequins to inject very wearable clothing with a sense of colour and fun that no other designer could ever dare replicate. Long may Ashish continue to plough his very own idiosyncratic fashion furrow. He even thanked his mum on the show notes, how sweet is that?

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Ashish, ,BFC Tent, ,Brick, ,Celestine Cooney, ,DMs, ,DS Dundee, ,florals, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Kate Eldridge, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Le Jardin d’Ashish, ,Leopard, ,lfw, ,Lilies, ,London Fashion Week, ,paloma faith, ,S/S 2012, ,Sequins, ,Somerset House, ,Straw Fedora, ,Zebra

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Basso & Brooke

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week - by Joana Faria

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Joana Faria

There is no queuing for me at the Basso & Brooke show – I’m late, store having been seduced by ice-cream and pretty dresses at the Orla Kiely presentation and everyone has already been seated. So it’s fine luck that I found an unoccupied seat in the front row. As is usual at London Fashion Week, salve a celeb or two will make an entrance just before the show is about to commence and a riot of photographers will swoon in and blind bystanders with their imperious flashes.

Ana Araujo at Basso & Brooke  SS 12 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ana Araujo

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Being naturally curious I want to know who it is as well. Later on I’ll discover the celebrity to be Ana Araujo, ed but meanwhile I snap a photo of her, tell she looks gorgeous when she smiles and rush back to my seat to await the start of the show.

Basso & Brooke  by Gilly Rochester LFW SS 2012

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 Illustrated by Gilly Rochester

An energetic beat silences the audience and the fantastic elliptical light display comes alive and dances to the rhythm building a dynamic ambience and giving the illusion of stars sparkling in the night sky. I’m hoping there aren’t any epileptics in the audience when the lights stand still and serene, welcoming an explosion of colour and print onto the stark white stage.

LFW SS12 Basso and Brooke by Kristina Vasiljeva

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Kristina Vasiljeva

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week - by Joana Faria

Basso & Brook S/S 2012 illustrated by Joana Faria

Colour and print have become synonymous with the Basso & Brooke brand and both designers are very much aware of this. So wanting to break away from the prison that had become symmetry and precision, Bruno Basso and Chris Brooke journeyed to bring digital print alive again, by disrupting the status quo of digital print. What transpired was a ‘Tropical Constructivism’.

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Vibrant tropical images married with angular lines and sharp structures cloak the fluid cloth of each softly, but perfectly structured garment; short dresses, shirt dresses, maxi dresses and what appears to be a ‘salwar kameez-esque’ dress and skinny trouser outfit. One of my favourites is a shorts and jacket ensemble accessorised with cool retro shades. The hair is styled or rather, anti-styled in a straggly ‘I have better things to do’ pony tail, a distinct contrast to the conspicuous collection. I also love the accessorising (by Borba) of a few key outfits with what appears to be a cluster of karabiners and key-ring clips. Brilliant.

Basso & Brooke by Gilly Rochester LFW SS 2012

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Gilly Rochester

If putting clashing colours and prints together to form gorgeous wearable clothes wasn’t hard enough, Basso & Brooke challenged themselves with the idea of evolving patterns, so that each new piece in the collection bore the seed of the next. Impressive much? I think so.

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

All photography by Akeela Bhattay

As the show comes to an end and the design duo take to the catwalk, there is reverberating applause. Thoroughly deserved, I think.

You can watch the show here.

Categories ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Ana Araujo, ,Basso & Brooke, ,Borba, ,british fashion council, ,Bruno Basso, ,catwalk show, ,Chris Brooke, ,designer, ,Digital Print, ,fashion, ,GHD, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Goodley PR, ,Images, ,Joana Faria, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mac, ,Multi-print, ,Multicolour, ,Photographs, ,Pioneers, ,Report, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,soundtrack, ,spring, ,SS 12, ,summer, ,The Old Sorting Office, ,Tropical Constructivism

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Basso & Brooke

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week - by Joana Faria

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Joana Faria

There is no queuing for me at the Basso & Brooke show – I’m late, store having been seduced by ice-cream and pretty dresses at the Orla Kiely presentation and everyone has already been seated. So it’s fine luck that I found an unoccupied seat in the front row. As is usual at London Fashion Week, salve a celeb or two will make an entrance just before the show is about to commence and a riot of photographers will swoon in and blind bystanders with their imperious flashes.

Ana Araujo at Basso & Brooke  SS 12 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ana Araujo

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Being naturally curious I want to know who it is as well. Later on I’ll discover the celebrity to be Ana Araujo, ed but meanwhile I snap a photo of her, tell she looks gorgeous when she smiles and rush back to my seat to await the start of the show.

Basso & Brooke  by Gilly Rochester LFW SS 2012

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 Illustrated by Gilly Rochester

An energetic beat silences the audience and the fantastic elliptical light display comes alive and dances to the rhythm building a dynamic ambience and giving the illusion of stars sparkling in the night sky. I’m hoping there aren’t any epileptics in the audience when the lights stand still and serene, welcoming an explosion of colour and print onto the stark white stage.

LFW SS12 Basso and Brooke by Kristina Vasiljeva

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Kristina Vasiljeva

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week - by Joana Faria

Basso & Brook S/S 2012 illustrated by Joana Faria

Colour and print have become synonymous with the Basso & Brooke brand and both designers are very much aware of this. So wanting to break away from the prison that had become symmetry and precision, Bruno Basso and Chris Brooke journeyed to bring digital print alive again, by disrupting the status quo of digital print. What transpired was a ‘Tropical Constructivism’.

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Vibrant tropical images married with angular lines and sharp structures cloak the fluid cloth of each softly, but perfectly structured garment; short dresses, shirt dresses, maxi dresses and what appears to be a ‘salwar kameez-esque’ dress and skinny trouser outfit. One of my favourites is a shorts and jacket ensemble accessorised with cool retro shades. The hair is styled or rather, anti-styled in a straggly ‘I have better things to do’ pony tail, a distinct contrast to the conspicuous collection. I also love the accessorising (by Borba) of a few key outfits with what appears to be a cluster of karabiners and key-ring clips. Brilliant.

Basso & Brooke by Gilly Rochester LFW SS 2012

Basso & Brooke S/S 2012 illustrated by Gilly Rochester

If putting clashing colours and prints together to form gorgeous wearable clothes wasn’t hard enough, Basso & Brooke challenged themselves with the idea of evolving patterns, so that each new piece in the collection bore the seed of the next. Impressive much? I think so.

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay
Basso & Brooke SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

All photography by Akeela Bhattay

As the show comes to an end and the design duo take to the catwalk, there is reverberating applause. Thoroughly deserved, I think.

You can watch the show here.

Categories ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Ana Araujo, ,Basso & Brooke, ,Borba, ,british fashion council, ,Bruno Basso, ,catwalk show, ,Chris Brooke, ,designer, ,Digital Print, ,fashion, ,GHD, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Goodley PR, ,Images, ,Joana Faria, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mac, ,Multi-print, ,Multicolour, ,Photographs, ,Pioneers, ,Report, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,soundtrack, ,spring, ,SS 12, ,summer, ,The Old Sorting Office, ,Tropical Constructivism

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