Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Aminaka Wilmont

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

The title Changeling on the poster-sized invitation to Aminaka Wilmont’s show – the last womenswear show in the BFC show space at Somerset House during this London Fashion Week’s season – already prepared me, cost before actually seeing the collection, illness for some allusions to legends and folklore. Of course the designers behind the Aminaka Wilmont, Maki Aminaka Löfvander and Marcus Wilmont have a wealth of such otherworldly inspiration to draw from their Swedish, Japanese and Danish cultural backgrounds.

Aminaka Wlimont LFW SS12 by MattBramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Kristina Vasiljeva

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva

The first thing that struck me when the show begun was the way the models had their hair styled with a mid-parting and straight bands of hair placed hanging in front of their ears, which immediately reminded me of Neyriti’s hairstyle in the movie Avatar.

Aminaka Willmont show LFW SS12 by Gemma Sheldrake

Aminaka Willmont S/S 2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

Interestingly, afterwards I read that Aminaka Wilmont were partly inspired for their Spring Summer 2012 collection by Ori Gersht’s photographs of dark landscapes and high mountains which look very much like Pandora’s Hallelujah Mountains in Avatar. The dove grey tones we saw in a lot of the outfits evoked the colour of karst limestone formations found in some of Gersht’s work and on the chinese Huang Shan Mountains which inspired the Hallelujah Mountains.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Perhaps following this line of thought, the designers had placed white orchids – which often grow under geological conditions such as those described above – on the front row seats while the pure white colour, and innocence of the flower was reflected in a number of simple white chiffon dresses.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Vasare Nar

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Vasare Nar

Violets and shades of brown dominated in abstract floral prints where again one could see Ori Gersht’s influence. Jersey assymetrical dresses featured cut out panels and custom-made Merve Tuna shoes came in mermaid blues and greens that alluded to creatures of an ambiguous identity. I really enjoyed the chain vial necklaces that contained something which looked like a magic potion in various bright colours.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

In line with this ambiguity of the theme of the Changeling was also the duality expressed through the use of leather in the jackets versus sheer chiffon in the dresses and skirts as well as through some bottom halves that were pants-length versus long trains hanging at the back. Indeed here I should add that I felt one should really own an otherworldly pair of legs or simply be a fairy to be able to sport some of the shorter pieces…

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Of course the most beautiful and startling contrast was between the masculine/aggressive and feminine which was revealed in the final pieces in the collection; floral printed body armour pieces with 3D flower forms sewn onto them as if the armour was blossoming. Intriguingly the designers cite as an inspiration ‘the Hayflick effect’ or limit – which is the number of times a normal cell population will divide before it stops – and I thought that at times the models looked, walked and had an expression on their faces, especially at the end when they all walked together in a huddle, like they were hopefull warriors or amazons – perhaps determined to survive in a world where the cells do not have that many more times left to divide?

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

All photography by Matt Bramford and Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,Aggressive, ,Aminaka Wilmont, ,Armour, ,Avatar, ,british fashion council, ,Changeling, ,Chiffon, ,collection, ,Danish, ,Dress, ,fairytales, ,fashion, ,Feminine, ,Folklore, ,Gemma Sheldrake, ,Hairstyle, ,Hayflick Limit, ,Jackets, ,japanese, ,jersey, ,Karst limestone, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,leather, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maki Aminaka Lofvander, ,Marcus Wilmont, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masculine, ,Matt Bramford, ,Merve Tuna, ,Necklaces, ,Neytiri, ,Orchids, ,Ori Gersht, ,Swedish, ,Vasare Nar, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jacob Kimmie

Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska
Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska.

I missed the Jacob Kimmie show last season but the fabulous cream and black elegance of his sophisticated collection for A/W 2010 is still etched into my mind.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW SS12 Jacob Kimmie by Kristina Vasiljeva
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Jacob Kimmie‘s new collection was called Rhapsody and featured a huge number of beautifully constructed garments in signature monochrome, seek but this time with variation in the form of a grey dove print that appeared on white and black grounds to equal effect. Flocks of doves spread across skirts or down tiered chiffon dresses. Taking a brave step away from monochrome Jacob Kimmie also showcased the dove print in coy red.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob-Kimmie-(SS-2012)-by-Barb-Royal
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Ah, clinic chiffon. There has been an awful lot of exposed nipple action this LFW and Jacob Kimmie‘s show was no exception. High necked Victorian school marm blouses with slouchy puff sleeves were given the sheer treatment – if only the women likely to afford these garments had such perky boobs. On other blouses bib like ruffles covered the bosom or a dapper rose appeared at the neck. Slim mesh panels up the sides and down the sleeves of long dresses were particularly clever. The contrast of sexiness and primness was emphasised with simple allusions to religion and virginity – a cross around the neck or a barely there netted cape.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

The show closed with an exposed bride, who sashayed down the catwalk under a diaphanous veil with an empty birdcage swinging at her side. The black models from the show posed in a row at the end of the catwalk as Jacob gave his final bow – as ever an incongruous figure, rotund and cheery in baseball cap, casual t-shirt and shorts – the antithesis of his designs.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

Jacob Kimmie is fast building himself a strong brand that is an alluring combination of prim and sexy. Rhapsody S/S 2012 was a beautiful and wearable collection that should appeal to buyers in spades.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Birdcage, ,Bride, ,Chiffon, ,doves, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grey, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Mesh, ,monochrome, ,Nipples, ,Panels, ,print, ,Religious, ,Rhapsody, ,Ruffles, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sheer, ,Veil, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Ziad Ghanem (by Amelia)

This spring, sales the V&A presents a unique exhibition dedicated the Grand Master Japanese couturier, stuff Yohji Yamamoto. The exhibition will celebrate his life and work, and is the first of its kind in the UK. 30 years after Yamamoto debuted in Paris, the V&A has brought together rare examples of his visionary designs.

Here’s an exclusive interview with the exhibition’s curator, Ligaya Salazar. You can also read some of Salazar’s thoughts below, too.
On process
With this project I started roughly two and a half years ago to work on the idea and the concept behind the exhibition, its also a very particular project because you are working with a living designer who you are doing a single retrospective with, working with their team very closely, so in terms of curating, there is much more of a dialogue there than you would probably normally have with a slightly more thematic show.

The focus was more on to find a concept that would work for him, as a designer, because Yohji Yamamoto is very special in the deign world in terms of the way he approaches designing, so the way you want to show his work should be quite different as well….I spent more time looking at ways of displaying his work, ways of showing his work…

On garment selection
I had the incredible honour to be able to go into both his Paris and his Tokyo archives, the Tokyo archives no curator had ever been to, I had all of his archive to look at and to choose from, which made the editing process incredibly hard…it is something you spend a long time doing, talking to Yohji’s team, talking to the designer, making sure you have covered the iconic parts of his career, but also chosen pieces that are most emblematic of the themes that you want to bring out…I stated with an object list that was about six hundred pieces, and that was already a selection of the pieces I saw in the archive and then I had to bring it down to ninety, it was a long and quite arduous process.

On themes
Because it is an installation based exhibition, there isn’t a prescriptive story to tell, or a chronology, it was much more about how people would encounter the garments, for the first time what we are doing is to show everything on open display, on the same height as the viewer, so you are meeting your other, rather than looking up and behind glass, it’s a very different experience of the clothes.

Yohi Yamamoto is at the V&A and at The Wapping Project until 10th July 2011. Look out for a full review coming soon!

Marnie for Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Tigz Rice
Marnie Scarlet for Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Tigz Rice.

Ziad Ghanem‘s Never End, sick Never End, Never End was one of those hotly tipped shows that all my contributors were desperate to go to, so I was promised performance catwalking at its best. What I hadn’t expected was to land a prime seat right opposite Boy George, looking remarkably svelte next to Daniel Lismore.

Boy George and Daniel Lismore. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Boy George and Daniel Lismore. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

I remember the allure of Karma Chameleon, back when a dodgy video was sufficient accompaniment for pop songs of such genius. Colour by Numbers was actually the VERY FIRST album that I owned, given to me by my aunt on good old cassette tape.

YouTube Preview Image

But then, ah, the show!!! This collection was inspired by a horror video game called Silent Hill and the work of Romantic painter John Henry Fuseli, and it explored themes of gothic romance. The press release states that the same garment viewed in a dark, gothic context by one viewer will be interpreted as romantic and liberating by the next.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jessica Holt
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jessica Holt.

The show opened with a stunning piece of performance, as a red-headed model appeared in gothic Tim Burton-esque make up, black skirts tumbling as she grew before our eyes into a 12 foot monster burlesque bride waving great green feathered fans. Thereafter followed a series of printed, billowing capes and tightly corseted dresses, all accessorised with veils, reddened eyes, cracked cheeks and Joker smiles. Apparently Ziad asked each model to choose their own favourite horror film make up for the show.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jamie McGregor
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jamie McGregor.

Androgynous models wore chiffon and beaded dresses, a spooky ghost couple trailed rumpled netting behind as they faced the photographers together. Amidst the drama cleverly made outfits showcased traditional haute couture skills using bias cut vintage silk chiffons and duchess satin that flowed around the body.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars.

A white faced creature smeared its face with black paint and make up took a turn towards our feathered friends: blue winged eyes echoing the giant bird prints on winged dresses. Out stepped a ballet dancer on pointe, edging down the catwalk in frilled lilac, her skull face shrouded in grey. As she retreated backwards a series of busty ladies swept down the catwalk in eminently wearable multi coloured chiffon dresses: amongst them walked transvestites, burlesque artists and a giant lady in grey. I particularly adored the bustle backed electric fuchsia number that emphasised every womanly curve.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars.

Taking the art of the catwalk to fantastical heights, Ziad Ghanem proved that his shows really are worth the hype, with or without the added bonus of an 80s pop idol in a fabulous yellow fedora. You can read more about his unique selection of models here.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can also read Florence Massey’s review of the Ziad Ghanem show here.

Categories ,ballet, ,birds, ,boy george, ,Burlesque, ,Chiffon, ,Colour by Numbers, ,couture, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Fashion Scout, ,Florence Massey, ,gothic, ,Helen Crawford, ,Horror, ,Jamie McGregor, ,Jessica Holt, ,John Henry Fuseli, ,Karma Chameleon, ,Marnie Scarlet, ,Never End, ,Romantic, ,Silent Hill, ,The Lovely Wars, ,Tigz Rice, ,tim burton, ,Transvestite, ,Ziad Ghanem

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Ziad Ghanem (by Amelia)

This spring, sales the V&A presents a unique exhibition dedicated the Grand Master Japanese couturier, stuff Yohji Yamamoto. The exhibition will celebrate his life and work, and is the first of its kind in the UK. 30 years after Yamamoto debuted in Paris, the V&A has brought together rare examples of his visionary designs.

Here’s an exclusive interview with the exhibition’s curator, Ligaya Salazar. You can also read some of Salazar’s thoughts below, too.
On process
With this project I started roughly two and a half years ago to work on the idea and the concept behind the exhibition, its also a very particular project because you are working with a living designer who you are doing a single retrospective with, working with their team very closely, so in terms of curating, there is much more of a dialogue there than you would probably normally have with a slightly more thematic show.

The focus was more on to find a concept that would work for him, as a designer, because Yohji Yamamoto is very special in the deign world in terms of the way he approaches designing, so the way you want to show his work should be quite different as well….I spent more time looking at ways of displaying his work, ways of showing his work…

On garment selection
I had the incredible honour to be able to go into both his Paris and his Tokyo archives, the Tokyo archives no curator had ever been to, I had all of his archive to look at and to choose from, which made the editing process incredibly hard…it is something you spend a long time doing, talking to Yohji’s team, talking to the designer, making sure you have covered the iconic parts of his career, but also chosen pieces that are most emblematic of the themes that you want to bring out…I stated with an object list that was about six hundred pieces, and that was already a selection of the pieces I saw in the archive and then I had to bring it down to ninety, it was a long and quite arduous process.

On themes
Because it is an installation based exhibition, there isn’t a prescriptive story to tell, or a chronology, it was much more about how people would encounter the garments, for the first time what we are doing is to show everything on open display, on the same height as the viewer, so you are meeting your other, rather than looking up and behind glass, it’s a very different experience of the clothes.

Yohi Yamamoto is at the V&A and at The Wapping Project until 10th July 2011. Look out for a full review coming soon!

Marnie for Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Tigz Rice
Marnie Scarlet for Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Tigz Rice.

Ziad Ghanem‘s Never End, sick Never End, Never End was one of those hotly tipped shows that all my contributors were desperate to go to, so I was promised performance catwalking at its best. What I hadn’t expected was to land a prime seat right opposite Boy George, looking remarkably svelte next to Daniel Lismore.

Boy George and Daniel Lismore. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Boy George and Daniel Lismore. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

I remember the allure of Karma Chameleon, back when a dodgy video was sufficient accompaniment for pop songs of such genius. Colour by Numbers was actually the VERY FIRST album that I owned, given to me by my aunt on good old cassette tape.

YouTube Preview Image

But then, ah, the show!!! This collection was inspired by a horror video game called Silent Hill and the work of Romantic painter John Henry Fuseli, and it explored themes of gothic romance. The press release states that the same garment viewed in a dark, gothic context by one viewer will be interpreted as romantic and liberating by the next.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jessica Holt
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jessica Holt.

The show opened with a stunning piece of performance, as a red-headed model appeared in gothic Tim Burton-esque make up, black skirts tumbling as she grew before our eyes into a 12 foot monster burlesque bride waving great green feathered fans. Thereafter followed a series of printed, billowing capes and tightly corseted dresses, all accessorised with veils, reddened eyes, cracked cheeks and Joker smiles. Apparently Ziad asked each model to choose their own favourite horror film make up for the show.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jamie McGregor
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by Jamie McGregor.

Androgynous models wore chiffon and beaded dresses, a spooky ghost couple trailed rumpled netting behind as they faced the photographers together. Amidst the drama cleverly made outfits showcased traditional haute couture skills using bias cut vintage silk chiffons and duchess satin that flowed around the body.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars.

A white faced creature smeared its face with black paint and make up took a turn towards our feathered friends: blue winged eyes echoing the giant bird prints on winged dresses. Out stepped a ballet dancer on pointe, edging down the catwalk in frilled lilac, her skull face shrouded in grey. As she retreated backwards a series of busty ladies swept down the catwalk in eminently wearable multi coloured chiffon dresses: amongst them walked transvestites, burlesque artists and a giant lady in grey. I particularly adored the bustle backed electric fuchsia number that emphasised every womanly curve.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 by The Lovely Wars.

Taking the art of the catwalk to fantastical heights, Ziad Ghanem proved that his shows really are worth the hype, with or without the added bonus of an 80s pop idol in a fabulous yellow fedora. You can read more about his unique selection of models here.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryZiad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can also read Florence Massey’s review of the Ziad Ghanem show here.

Categories ,ballet, ,birds, ,boy george, ,Burlesque, ,Chiffon, ,Colour by Numbers, ,couture, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Fashion Scout, ,Florence Massey, ,gothic, ,Helen Crawford, ,Horror, ,Jamie McGregor, ,Jessica Holt, ,John Henry Fuseli, ,Karma Chameleon, ,Marnie Scarlet, ,Never End, ,Romantic, ,Silent Hill, ,The Lovely Wars, ,Tigz Rice, ,tim burton, ,Transvestite, ,Ziad Ghanem

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Shumik 100% and Aga Pou

Aga Pou S/S 2012 by Marta Spendowska
Aga Pou S/S 2012 by Marta Spendowska.

Time for reports from the last two shows of my trip to Poland… Shumik 100% and Aga Pou.

Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Shumik 100% S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I was utterly bemused by the Shumik 100% show – at the back of the catwalk a neon pink backdrop declared ‘Headwear Design‘ so I spent the whole show convinced that the bizarre hats – over the top feathered creations and ugly turbans in every conceivable type of wrap – were all that we were being shown. I thus paid very little attention to the clothes, an insipid and flimsy collection made up of sweetie coloured chiffon and shiny stretch fabrics. I was afterwards informed that the Shumik designers Karina Gozdz and Anna Leszkiewicz have been working professionally for several years and that IN LOVE was their first collection created together. Not impressed.

Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Aga Pou Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Much better was the last catwalk show of my visit to Fashion Week Poland, an angular affair from Aga Pou. For S/S 2012 she was inspired by cubism, using transparent fabrics to give the impression of blocks penetrating each other. Unfortunately I was late getting to the show and was only allowed to stand at the side which afforded me a dire view and severely limited my ability to take decent photos, thereby putting me in a foul mood since the collection seemed really quite impressive… all in all the Aga Pou collection was a pretty good way to sign out of the Polish S/S 2012 season.

Categories ,Aga Pou, ,Anna Leszkiewicz, ,Chiffon, ,Cubism, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,geometric, ,hats, ,Headwear, ,IN LOVE, ,Karina Gozdz, ,Lodz, ,Marta Spendowska, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Transparent

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Teresa Kopias

Teresa Kopias S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve
Teresa Kopias S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve.

I arrived late for the Teresa Kopias show, which afforded me a great view of the models posing in front of a wind machine at the head of the catwalk, but sadly not of the buff men posed on stilts at the other end.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. All photography Amelia Gregory.

I have been told that Teresa Kopias is not what is considered a ‘proper’ designer in Poland, rather she is someone who has been around for ever, who started her career many years ago selling dresses on a market stall and now makes high end formal wear. Well, she may not be massively fashion forward, but I thought her beautifully made dresses were pretty fabulous for a special occasion, and I could easily see a few of them gracing the red carpet.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
The show was split into two halves, with the first section given over to formal day wear: brightly coloured shantung silk dresses with oversized bow detailing. The lighting then became more dramatic as a series of blowsy chiffon dresses took centre stage. Teresa Kopias‘ S/S 2012 collection may not have been ground-breaking, but it was rather lovely, I thought.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. Doesn’t this last model have a touch of the Kate Moss about her?

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. Note buff men on stilts!

Categories ,Chiffon, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Geiko Louve, ,Kate Moss, ,Lodz, ,Naked Men, ,Shantung Silk, ,Teresa Kopias

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Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Hons Jewellery Graduate Show 2011 Review

Jing Jing Cao headdress
Headdress by Jing Jing Cao.

The Central Saint Martin Ba shows were held for the last time this year in the iconic Charing Cross building, visit before the courses depart for new accommodation in Kings Cross. What will happen to the beautiful vaulted hallways when they go? The caretaker couldn’t tell me…

I can’t help but love jewellery – whilst I’ll happily bypass the graphic design stands if there’s a glint of precious gem I’m in there, help nosing around. The Ba Jewellery offering was a mixed bag – much of it did not appeal to me at all but the designs that did grabbed my attention good and proper. Below are the best designers I found.

Kerry Huff
I was attracted to Kerry Huff‘s rough gemstone jewellery based on natural patterns even before I realised that she had sourced all her materials ethically… and is also passionate about fair-trade practice. How joyous to find students tackling design with a firm grounding in the implications of their work.

Hee Jung Son
Hee Jung Son also worked with recycled lids to create a well presented range of colourful rings on silver bases.

Yung-Han Tsai
Central Saint Martins jewellery graduate exhibition 2011 Yung-Han Tsai
Yung-Han Tsai reappropriated everyday objects and transformed them into something new – in this case she clumped bundles of headphones (I’m hoping they were recycled or upcycled) into sculptural forms.

Bonnie Yiu
Bonnie Yiu did some strange and wonderful things with copper wire and paper which produced curvaceous necklaces and bangles with detailed patterns that bore closer examination.

Central Saint Martins jewellery graduate exhibition 2011 Wenhui Li
Wenhui Li pink ring
Wenhui Li
Wenhui Li showed a fabulous display of coloured mixed media rings featuring strange alienesque bulbous shapes. See more on Wenhui Li’s website.

Lauren Colover
I didn’t notice Lauren Colover‘s work when I was at the exhibition but the piece she has chosen for the catalogue is stunning – based on a Ginkgo Biloba leaf and encrusted on the underside with semi precious stones.

Min Yoo
Min Kjung Yoo created some amazing hybrid creatures from a mix of resin, precious metals and gems. Some were far more out there than this particular frog/dolphin specimen – see her website.

Jing Jing Cao
Jing Jing Cao produced stunning brass and acrylic ruffs that spread around the face like a stylised human frame.

Anna Heasman barter bangle
In her final year Anna has found herself questioning the meaning of jewellery as simply adornment but rather as a means of exchange. Inspired by primitive forms of exchange (or indeed, some might say the most postmodern way to live) Anna Heasman offered exhibition attendees the chance to Barter for a Bangle. How could I resist? I offered to write about her here if she gave me a particularly fetching gold twisted number. But I haven’t heard from her yet, and look, here I am writing about her anyway. Clearly I’m not so good at bartering.

Central Saint Martins jewellery graduate exhibition 2011 Anna Heasman Barter Bangles
One of the most intriguing things were the other barters on offer, everything from a list of herbal medicines to other bits of jewellery, cupcakes and a drink on the town. If it wasn’t so incredibly frowned upon to take photos at the CSM shows I would have taken more snapshots of the amazing array of offered goods and services. Some of them can be viewed on Anna Heasman’s Tumblr.

Still to come… my favourite finds from the Jewellery MA.

Categories ,2011, ,Acrylic, ,Anna Heasman, ,Barter Bangles, ,Bonnie Yiu, ,brass, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Copper, ,Eco-Design, ,ethical, ,fairtrade, ,Gems, ,Ginkgo Biloba, ,Graduate Shows, ,Hee Jung Son, ,Hybrid, ,jewellery, ,Jing Jing Cao, ,Kerry Huff, ,Lauren Colover, ,Min Kjung Yoo, ,paper, ,Precious Metal, ,recycled, ,Resin, ,review, ,Silver, ,Upcycled, ,Wenhui Li, ,Yung-Han Tsai

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Joanna Klimas

Joanna-Klimas_by Alison Day
Joanna Klimas by Alison Day.

Joanna Klimas has had an interesting career to date: initially trained as a psychologist before turning to fashion a decade later. She was one of the first Polish designers to embrace a new minimalism in the 1990s, generic appearing in the first issue of Polish Elle. In 2001 she began to design costumes for the opera but returned to fashion design recently.

Joanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory

This collection was dominated by black and tasteful neutrals such as beige, cheap creamy yellow, order nude and camel. There was a lot of asymmetric shaping, floaty maxi dresses mixed with leather swing crop tops, overlong collars – all accessorised with boyish black oxfords and short socks. I wasn’t convinced by an unflattering sheer plastic skirt or a weird grey printed skin fabric and I was starting to recognise each model’s individual walk, which is never a good point in the proceedings. By the time the turquoise chiffon hit the catwalk I had also lost track of the number of floaty maxi dresses I had seen at Fashion Week Poland. Truth be told Joanna Klimas left me underwhelmed.

Joanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryJoanna Klimas ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Joanna Klimas A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,asymmetric, ,Chiffon, ,Designers’ Avenue, ,Expo, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Joanna Klimas, ,leather, ,Lodz, ,Maxi dresses, ,minimalism

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Lukasz Jemiol

Lucasz Jemiol by Anna Blachut
Lucasz Jemiol by Anna Blachut.

Lukasz Jemiol opted for a set designed catwalk, approved steel tubes careful back lit with dry ice – models came out one by one to pose in groups amongst the industrial type gubbins. Colours were neutral with splashes of gold and lime green, doctor and there was plenty of strapped chiffon, draped jersey and shaggy shoulder shrugs. Despite the theatrics this was really quite a dull commercial collection.

Lukasz Jemiol by Anna Blachut
Lukasz Jemiol by Anna Blachut.

Lukasz Jemiol ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryLukasz Jemiol ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryLukasz Jemiol ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryLukasz Jemiol ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryLukasz Jemiol ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryLukasz Jemiol ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryLukasz Jemiol ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryLukasz Jemiol ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryLukasz Jemiol ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryLukasz Jemiol ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lukasz Jemiol A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Anna Blachut, ,Chiffon, ,Designers’ Avenue, ,Expo, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Industrial, ,jersey, ,Lodz, ,Lukasz Jemiol

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Blessus

Blessus S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Blessus S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Blessus showed Navaho against a bright orange screen, a suitable background to an earthy collection of burnt shades inspired by the Navajo indians of Arizona. It featured tailored jackets and yards of chiffon with a combination of pencil skirts, tight trousers and skater skirts. Ikat and wallpaper inspired prints were highlights. Blessus is Marta Matuszewska and Michael Hekmat.

Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Blessus S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Blessus, ,Chiffon, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Ikat, ,Lodz, ,Marta Matuszewska, ,Michael Hekmat, ,Navaho, ,Navajo, ,Skater skirts

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