Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch Baartmans and Siegel

Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 by Barb Royal
Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Baartmans and Siegel are already making waves in menswear land: the upcoming brand is stocked by Harrods. A look at their S/S 2012 collection reveals why. It is an easy going range of summery suits, remedy accessories and separates in perfect boy tones: lots of pewter, store stone, price dusty blue and dashes of orange and caramel. Of particular note were the chunky leather satchels, snood silk scarves and cosy striped handknit cotton cardigans and jumpers, all worn with comfy brogues by classic shoemakers Grenson.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
All photography by Matt Bramford.

Baartmans Siegel LFW by Katie Allen
Baartmans Siegel S/S 2012 by Katie Allen.

Wouter Baartman and Amber Siegel are a Dutch/English design partnership who met whilst designing at Viktor & Rolf and became united over their love of beautiful craftsmanship and imaginative design.

Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Baartmans and Siegel (SS-2012) by Barb Royal
Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

The Dust Drifters collection was inspired by the colours of an arid landscape, perfect for the modern traveller and Baartmans and Siegel‘s use of quality fabrics such as Irish linen and silk crepe contributes to the air of luxury. They describe themselves as ‘modern traditionalists’ and it’s easy to see how this ethos has been translated into clothing. Beautiful.

Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Amber Siegel, ,Barb Royal, ,Dust Drifters, ,dutch, ,English, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grenson, ,Handknit, ,Harrods, ,Katie Allen, ,lfw, ,Luxury, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Ones To Watch, ,S/S 2012, ,Silk Crepe, ,Wouter Baartman

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dear Fashion Diary: an interview with Emmi Ojala

Dear Fashion Diary

How did you first come across the idea of the Free Fashion Challenge, and why did you decide to take part? 


The Free Fashion Challenge was an initiative of Laura de Jong, who studied in the same fashion school (Amsterdam Fashion Institute) with me. She started the project to challenge fashionistas to rethink fashion and personal style outside the cycle of consumption. A teacher of mine introduced me to the project, asking if I would be interested in participating in the challenge. First it felt like a big commitment to sign up for not shopping for a year, but it was such an intriguing challenge that I ended up saying yes. I was curious to see how well I would cope, and so many people around me were shocked by the mere idea that it made me want to prove that spending 365 days without shopping would be doable.

Dear Fashion Journal

What was the biggest challenge when you stopped shopping for a whole year?
The biggest challenge was trying not to get bored with my clothes and find ways to cope when my clothes started to wear out. By the end of the year, I didn’t have one single pair of stockings without holes, so I always wore two on top of each other to cover the rips. I also started spending more time restyling my old clothes in attempts of staying excited about my outfits. It gave me the same happy feeling you get when you wear something new for the first time.

Dear Fashion Journal

And what was the most surprising thing that you learnt after a year without spending on clothes?
Most surprising thing I learned was that not shopping wasn’t actually that difficult. The only thing that I really missed was treasure hunting in second hand shops, but other than that I hardly had any temptations to spend on clothes.

Dear Fashion Journal

How did you learn to make your clothes fit seasonal trends, without buying new stuff?

My closet stayed pretty up-to-date thanks to swapping with friends and visiting my mom’s closet in search for old items. I was so happy that she had kept some of her golden oldies, because trends go around, come around, and suddenly old items begin to look contemporary again. Also DIY helps a lot if one wants to be trendy without spending; you can dye your clothes, cut them up and sew them back together into something fresh. The cyberspace is full of great DIY tutorials, so you can always find ways to customize your clothes even if you weren’t an expert on sewing.

Dear Fashion Journal

What was the process behind the creation of Dear Fashion Journal? What were you trying to achieve?

During the Free Fashion Challenge, all us participants wrote about our experiences on a blog. There were quite some thought evoking aha-moments documented there, so after the challenge was over, I wanted to dig a bit deeper and collect stories inspired by those experiences into a printed publication. My goal was to arouse thoughts on our attitudes towards fashion and ever-changing trends, and do so without nagging about green this and eco that. I wanted to tell personal stories that would inspire people to be creative with fashion and think about their clothes as something valuable rather than throwaway pieces. 


Dear Fashion Diary

How did you set about collecting all your data, and finding illustrators to work with you on the journal? 

The entire magazine is based on the experiences of 30 people, who took part in the year of not shopping. I interviewed many of them to find out what they had learned, what had been their most striking experiences and if their thoughts on fashion and style had changed. All the articles in the magazine are inspired by those discussions and by the blog that we wrote during the challenge.

I have always loved richly illustrated books and magazines, so I knew from the beginning that Dear Fashion Journal would have to be like that, too. I had a wish-list of illustrators I wanted to work with, and was over the moon to get to feature illustrations from Daria Hlazatova and Krister Selin, both of whom I knew from Amelia’s Magazine. I also found some great artists via friends, blogs and portfolio sites like Behance. Next to that, me and my best friend Sarah Meers also spent a few long weekends illustrating some of the articles for the journal ourselves.


Dear Fashion Diary

You have since created a book called Dear Fashion Diary, which is a place where people can record their relationship with clothes – how did this come about?
Before I decided to self-publish Dear Fashion Journal, I got in touch with BIS Publishers and introduced the concept to them. The journal gave them an idea about a kind of a fashion diary, and they asked if I would be interested in working on something like that. Coincidentally, me and Laura de Jong (the founder of Free Fashion Challenge) had already earlier been brainstorming about making a notebook full of fashion assignments, so we took on the project together and so Dear Fashion Diary was born.

Where can people in the UK find a copy of Dear Fashion Diary?


You can find the Diary at Tate Modern, Podshop, Blackwells, Rizzoli Bookshop, Waterstones as well as order it through Amazon.

The journal can be ordered online here.

What next? Any other projects in the pipeline?

For now, I’m happily busy illustrating a children’s book and freelancing for a few other clients, whilst waiting for my brain to blurt out the next great idea for a project of my own!

Emmi Ojala is featured in Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration. You can follow her travels in illustration, fashion and sustainability on twitter here.

Categories ,Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration, ,Amsterdam Fashion Institute, ,BIS Publishers, ,Blackwells, ,Daria Hlazatova, ,Dear Fashion Diary, ,Dear Fashion Journal, ,Emmi Ojala, ,ethical, ,fashion, ,Free Fashion Challenge, ,illustration, ,interview, ,Krister Selin, ,Laura de Jong, ,Podshop, ,Rizzoli Bookshop, ,Sarah Meers, ,sustainable, ,Tate Modern, ,Waterstones

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Amelia’s Magazine | Discovering Tour de Force at Luna and Curious

Tour de Force headpiece by Alicia Rosam
Tour de Force headpiece by Alicia Rosam.

Luna & Curious used to be at the end of my road, malady but in February they relocated to a new store on Calvert Avenue just near Arnold Circus – part of the famous Boundary Estate, one of the first ever council housing schemes in the world.

Luna and Curious Calvert Avenue shop

Their stock remains excellently curated by founders Rheanna Lingham, Polly George and Kaoru Parry but the bigger space allows for a larger range of exciting designers to showcase their work. So it was through them that I was introduced to the delights of the Tour de Force headwear range by the Gibraltarian designer Camille Roman, who graduated from Central Saint Martins before working for Lanvin, Zac Posen and Johnny Loves Rosie then launching her own range of luxury accessories and womenswear. Luna & Curious were her first UK stockist two years ago and since then the brand has grown and grown. I caught up with Camille ahead of an exciting Easter project with Bompas & Parr.

Tour De Force Budding by Gareth A Hopkins
Tour De Force Budding by Gareth A Hopkins.

How did growing up in Gibralter set you up to become a headwear designer?
I didn’t actually grow up there, but all of my family live there, so I spent every summer and holiday with them. There have been tailors and seamstresses in my family and their love of fashion and hand-crafted detail got me hooked as a kid!

Tour de Force Headpiece SS 2011
Tour de Force Headpiece from the S/S 2011 collection.
 
Where does your studio look like?
It gets overcome by waves of chaos and a lot of ‘stuff’ everywhere – and then I will hide it all away for a little while – but I am not one of these people that needs to see structure to feel calm. I kind of love a whirlwind process.

Tour de Force Headpiece SS 2011
Tour de Force Headpiece from the S/S 2011 collection.

How did you first get your hats onto the heads of celebs such as Paloma Faith, and have you had any strange requests from a celebrity?
I met Paloma a long time ago through a friend. However, I had previously seen pictures of her from her early burlesque performing days and really wanted to dress her already… she has an amazing presence! I had someone ask for a rodent-inspired piece once, which was cool.

Kate Nash in Tour de Force
Kate Nash in Tour de Force.

Broken Hearts in Tour de Force
Broken Hearts in Tour de Force.
 
What inspired the designs for the current collection?
The S/S 2011 collection is inspired by the spirit of the Glad Game created by Pollyanna in the classic children’s tale: a contrast of innocent optimism and a sense of hardness. For A/W 2011 my inspiration was taken from the Jean Cocteau film Orpheus, about a woman who works for death. This was mixed with arid, volcanic landscapes and structural concepts found within product design to make interesting structures out of rubber.

Tour de Force from the S/S 2011 collection.
Tour de Force from the S/S 2011 collection.
Tour de Force S/S 2011 collection.
 
Who do you see wearing these designs?
Someone with a big personality like Jessie J (who wore a Tour de Force piece for her Brit Nomination appearance) or generally anyone who loves a bit of a dramatic stamp and a stare in life or on stage. I love when celebrities showcase my pieces and enjoy them, but I don’t have a set muse.
 
Tour de Force Struck-Eye Headpiece By Jess Purser
Tour de Force Struck-Eye headpiece by Jess Purser.

What are you working on now and next?
I just made some Dada-inspired Oompa-Loompa headpieces for Bompas & Parr, who have created a real chocolate waterfall for Easter! I am also making something for a Vogue editorial shoot and starting to design for S/S Womenswear 2012 which is always exciting. So lots going on at the moment!

Luna and Curious can be found at 24 ~ 26 Calvert Avenue, London E2 7JP, and is open daily from 11am-6pm. All stock can also be purchased online at Luna and Curious. Check out the Tour de Force website here.

CHOC WATERFALL POSTER bompas and parr

You can visit the Bompas & Parr chocolate waterfall at Whiteleys Shopping Centre in Bayswater between 22nd – 25th April 2011 for £5.00. It was inspired by the 40th anniversary of Willy Wonka’s Charlie and the Chocolate Factory film and attendees will be able to walk through the installation before having the chance to create their own chocolate Easter treats to take away. Tickets are available from the Bompas & Parr website.

Categories ,Alicia Rosam, ,Arnold Circus, ,Bayswater, ,Bompas & Parr, ,Boundary Estate, ,Broken Hearts, ,Calvert Avenue, ,Camille Roman, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, ,Chocolate Waterfall, ,Easter, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Glad Game, ,Headwear, ,Jean Cocteau, ,Jess Purser, ,Jessie J, ,Johnny Loves Rosie, ,Kaoru Parry, ,Kate Nash, ,Lanvin, ,Luna & Curious, ,millinery, ,Oompa-Loompa, ,Orpheus, ,paloma faith, ,Polly George, ,Pollyanna, ,Rheanna Lingham, ,S/S 2011, ,shoreditch, ,Tour de Force, ,vogue, ,Whiteleys Shopping Centre, ,Willy Wonka, ,Zac Posen

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Amelia’s Magazine | Anna Glowinski’s AnaNichoola – Girls Allowed!

anna-pic-left-with-design-tAll photographs courtesy of ananichoola.co.uk

AnaNichoola, stuff a label created by avid cyclist Anna Glowinski, is fast growing fashion brand with a simple idea; attractive, affordable and convenient fashion for female cyclists. With the growing popularity of cycling as a means of exercise, being eco friendly, and indeed for fun, her range of clothing and accessories has catered to a market close to her heart. As Anna explains; ‘We (female cyclists) don’t want to apologise for who we are, or hide our pony tails under our helmets; feminine style doesn’t mean kissing goodbye to performance, and that is what AnaNichoola is trying to embrace.’ I met up with Anna to chat about her designs and passion for the sport.

What made you start designing cycle fashion for women?

It was sort-of an accident, I mean, I’ve always had conversations with women about the lack of nice, practical female cycle clothing. It was always just too practical. So I handmade some fun bits and pieces – the LoveLocks and SPD heels for fun, and people loved them, so I decided to try and do more stuff. Once I committed myself to the plan, the ideas kept on coming! It was obviously a suppressed desire from being a vain lady cyclist my whole life!

beltbuckle

With all the media attention you have been getting, have you noticed an increase in sales?

Yes, I have. AnaNichoola is still in the baby stages, so sales are often an after thought. The press happens, the hits to my website go up, someone important e.g. a shop, asks me about my ability to mass produce, I start thinking about that, and then suddenly a member of the public wants something and I’m like, oh yeah, that’s what this is about. Up to Christmas sales increased so I reckon people who saw AnaNichoola two months ago probably held off until later to buy. Ultimately, I’m really glad for the press coverage because for one, it is nice that they believe in my products, and for two, I can’t afford any advertising right now.

Do you have new designs for combating these winter months?

I launched my technical designs at this year’s Cycle Show in October, so it’s quite a funny time to launch. I have tried to think about who will be buying right now, for example, Harrods stock The Curve jacket, but I changed the lining from the one at the show to have a more thermal winter lining. My next range is aimed at Spring/Summer, although some pieces will simply have the technical aspects of the same designs changed.

model-wearing-windbreaker-a

With people trying to be more environmentally friendly, what would you advise new cyclists, especially when travelling around cities?

I’d advise any new, or experienced, cyclist to get cycle training. I’ve ridden on the roads my whole life and was very confident going for training rides as a young teenager on fast moving roads, but I had cycle training when I was 20 and I can’t bear to think about how I used to ride before! Cycle training was developed after a group of people looked at the stats of cycle incidents, deaths and injuries and they worked out strategies for cyclists to avoid dangerous situations. I think that every cyclist should have it. If they don’t, then the biggest thing I would recommend is never, ever undertake a lorry or a bus- they can’t see you!

Redlace_trousergarter

Where do you get inspiration for your designs from?

The technical side comes from my experience as a racing cyclist; when you ride hard or for long hours it becomes very evident what a “bad” piece of cycle clothing is. I want my things to be technical, to perform and to look good. I keep up to date with mainstream fashion trends and try to combine that with the performance. I also get inspired by things I like; there is no market strategy, it’s just a thought that I like it, my Mum likes, and my mates like, then I’ll go with it.

model-wearing-earing

What is your personal favourite piece from your collection?

AHHHHH! I don’t know! The things I wear that fit best with my day-to-day living is the Curve Jacket, ball-bearing earrings and a bamboo base layer. However, I feel super cool when I wear the high-heeled SPDs or one of Shannon’s (accessories designer at AnaNichola) lairy belt buckles.

Ananichoola

What would be your all-time dream bike to own?

Good question! I want one bike for each type of cycling. I want it to always be ready to go, with no punctures and the correct pedals on it. I need a good off-road bike right now, as I’ve been doing the season on a road bike with knobbly tyres. I need a new set of wheels, and some curly handle bars. I wouldn’t mind a tandem for going on holidays with my boyfriend. I want to re-spray my road bike pink and gold. I need to get the rust off my BMX. I want a lighter jumps bike and a newer track bike. Ooh, I also badly want a Dutch bike, or a Pashley. And maybe an electric bike for when I’m tired. And a friendly talking bike, that knows the route and sings songs to me, that can fly sometimes….

AnaNichoola designs are on sale in Harrods, or www.ananichoola.co.uk where you can read more about Anna and her team.

Categories ,accessories, ,accessories designer, ,bicycles, ,BMX, ,cycle show, ,cycle training, ,cycling, ,Dutch bike, ,Eco-Design, ,ecofriendly, ,fashion, ,Fashion Clothing, ,female cycle clothing, ,Harrods, ,Pashley.

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Amelia’s Magazine | Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits: a perfect idea for Mothering Sunday

Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits
Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Okay, order so I know it’s Pancake Day, and International Women’s Day. But I want to talk about BISCUITS. And why not? Mothering Sunday is coming up this weekend and what better excuse to get baking. In fact, there are plenty of good reasons to make biscuits at any time of the year, as you will discover if you get your paws on the fabulous Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits. I promise you’ll be drooling before you’ve even opened the delicious front cover.

Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits

I discovered Biscuiteers a bit late for Valentines Day, but they kindly sent me a copy of their book, written by Harriet Hastings and Sarah Moore. Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits is the most divinely designed and photographed bible of biscuit goodness. And what I like is that it is very clearly a collaborative effort, with thanks to Victoria Sawdon – who not only art directed the book but illustrates all the Biscuiteers tins – mentioned alongside thanks to all the biscuit icers: Rina Wanti, Ceridwen Olofson and Belinda Chen. I want their skills!

Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits

Biscuiteers was started with the aim of making biscuits that look as beautiful as they taste. They are launched in seasonal collections to match specific events, and are aimed at adults in high end stores such as Harrods, Liberty and Fortnum & Mason. The Biscuiteers are proud to have built a business on old fashioned non-industrialised techniques and all the biscuits are still hand made and therefore individual. However, with the help of the Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits the common biscuit baker can give it a go ourselves.

Biscuiteers Book of Iced BiscuitsBiscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits

Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits is an extraordinarily beautiful book that features all the information you need to know to create the perfect dough and that all important icing, both royal and flooded. As well as easy to follow guides the book offers recommendations for how to package and post your biscuity creations. As you would expect it includes chapters on biscuits for a huge variety of occasions, from the biggies such as Christmas, Halloween, Mother’s Day (this weekend) and Easter, down to individual ideas such as New Baby biscuits – pastel bears and ducks – and garden themed biscuits. There are even some jokey cupcake biscuits, which says something about the enduring popularity of the cupcake, though I’d be happy to wager a bet on the biscuit take over.

Biscuiteers Book of Iced BiscuitsBiscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits

I made some dodgy Valentines Day biscuits using an online recipe, but with the help of this book I hope very soon to be somewhat more skilled, and I bet your mum would love nothing more than a batch of beautiful home made biscuits for Mothering Sunday – even if they don’t turn out quite as perfectly as the ones in Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits. Hey, it’s good to have something to aspire to!

Valentines biscuits
My feeble efforts…

You can buy the book on the Biscuiteers website. The book won Best Desserts Book UK and this month it goes into the international final for the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, held in Paris. Well done! And well deserved.

Categories ,Belinda Chen, ,Best Desserts Book UK, ,Biscuiteers, ,Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits, ,Ceridwen Olofson, ,Christmas, ,Easter, ,Flooded Icing, ,Fortnum & Mason, ,Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, ,Hallowe’en, ,Harriet Hastings, ,Harrods, ,International Women’s Day, ,liberty, ,Mother’s Day, ,Mothering Sunday, ,New Baby, ,Pancake Day, ,Rina Wanti, ,Royal Icing, ,Sarah Moore, ,Valentine’s Day, ,Victoria Sawdon

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Amelia’s Magazine | Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits: a perfect idea for Mothering Sunday

Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits
Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Okay, order so I know it’s Pancake Day, and International Women’s Day. But I want to talk about BISCUITS. And why not? Mothering Sunday is coming up this weekend and what better excuse to get baking. In fact, there are plenty of good reasons to make biscuits at any time of the year, as you will discover if you get your paws on the fabulous Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits. I promise you’ll be drooling before you’ve even opened the delicious front cover.

Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits

I discovered Biscuiteers a bit late for Valentines Day, but they kindly sent me a copy of their book, written by Harriet Hastings and Sarah Moore. Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits is the most divinely designed and photographed bible of biscuit goodness. And what I like is that it is very clearly a collaborative effort, with thanks to Victoria Sawdon – who not only art directed the book but illustrates all the Biscuiteers tins – mentioned alongside thanks to all the biscuit icers: Rina Wanti, Ceridwen Olofson and Belinda Chen. I want their skills!

Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits

Biscuiteers was started with the aim of making biscuits that look as beautiful as they taste. They are launched in seasonal collections to match specific events, and are aimed at adults in high end stores such as Harrods, Liberty and Fortnum & Mason. The Biscuiteers are proud to have built a business on old fashioned non-industrialised techniques and all the biscuits are still hand made and therefore individual. However, with the help of the Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits the common biscuit baker can give it a go ourselves.

Biscuiteers Book of Iced BiscuitsBiscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits

Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits is an extraordinarily beautiful book that features all the information you need to know to create the perfect dough and that all important icing, both royal and flooded. As well as easy to follow guides the book offers recommendations for how to package and post your biscuity creations. As you would expect it includes chapters on biscuits for a huge variety of occasions, from the biggies such as Christmas, Halloween, Mother’s Day (this weekend) and Easter, down to individual ideas such as New Baby biscuits – pastel bears and ducks – and garden themed biscuits. There are even some jokey cupcake biscuits, which says something about the enduring popularity of the cupcake, though I’d be happy to wager a bet on the biscuit take over.

Biscuiteers Book of Iced BiscuitsBiscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits

I made some dodgy Valentines Day biscuits using an online recipe, but with the help of this book I hope very soon to be somewhat more skilled, and I bet your mum would love nothing more than a batch of beautiful home made biscuits for Mothering Sunday – even if they don’t turn out quite as perfectly as the ones in Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits. Hey, it’s good to have something to aspire to!

Valentines biscuits
My feeble efforts…

You can buy the book on the Biscuiteers website. The book won Best Desserts Book UK and this month it goes into the international final for the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, held in Paris. Well done! And well deserved.

Categories ,Belinda Chen, ,Best Desserts Book UK, ,Biscuiteers, ,Biscuiteers Book of Iced Biscuits, ,Ceridwen Olofson, ,Christmas, ,Easter, ,Flooded Icing, ,Fortnum & Mason, ,Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, ,Hallowe’en, ,Harriet Hastings, ,Harrods, ,International Women’s Day, ,liberty, ,Mother’s Day, ,Mothering Sunday, ,New Baby, ,Pancake Day, ,Rina Wanti, ,Royal Icing, ,Sarah Moore, ,Valentine’s Day, ,Victoria Sawdon

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with cake designer and alternative baker Lily Vanilli, a.k.a. Lily Jones

Photography courtesy of Michael Clements

I first heard of Lily Vanilli last year when I read an article in The Observer Magazine about the candidates who made the shortlist for Courvoisier The Future 500 (2009). The graphic designer-turned-bespoke cake designer was listed in the top five and cited as one of the rising stars to watch for her innovative approach to cake baking.

Turning the cupcake business on its head, try Lily’s delicious cakes are the antithesis of the conventional, story cutesy cupcake with their unusual and macabre themes. Her fabulous creations are essentially mini edible sculptures (e.g marzipan beetles, decease morbid meringue bones, etc), an aesthetic delight, which are all crafted by hand in Lily’s kitchen in East London. This, combined with unusual ingredients such as bacon and avocado and a killer melt-in-the mouth sponge recipe, makes for a thrilling culinary experience. Speaking as a dessert fiend and as someone who has sampled Lily’s gourmet cakes, I have never been happier to move over to the dark side of cake!

Lily’s imaginative style to cake baking and kooky creations have earned her somewhat of a cult status within the industry and her decadent cupcakes, which are tailored specifically for each occasion, have featured at parties for Elton John, Henry Holland, Sadie Frost, Hello Kitty, Downing Street, Saatchi Gallery, Levi’s and The Sunday Times. Not bad for someone who only started baking as a hobby.


Photography courtesy of Cico Books

Last month saw the launch of Lily’s first ever book, ‘A Zombie Ate My Cupcake’, in which she shares her secret recipes for the first time ever. Guaranteed to be unlike any cake baking book you already own, ‘A Zombie Ate My Cupcake!’ is a graphic horror novel/cookbook comic featuring 25 gory recipes ranging from Sweeney Todd’s Surprise, a chocolate cupcake which looks like a pie with a severed bloodied finger poking out of it, to Bleeding Hearts, which, well, looks like squashed bleeding hearts with arteries and veins attached ‘n’ all.

Featuring other sweet treats aptly named ‘Eerie Eyeballs’, ‘Shattered Glass’ and ‘Marzipan Beetles’, the book is a visual feast, fusing the worlds of art and cuisine. With quirky detailed comic illustrations provided by up-and-coming illustrator Paul Parker, ‘A Zombie Ate My Cupcake!’ is a must for any cupcake enthusiast who is ready to take on the challenge of some slightly more sinister baking.

To celebrate the launch of Lily’s new book and her cupcake range at Harrods, Amelia’s Magazine caught up with the alternative cake designer and baker to talk about experimental food movements, taking on the cupcake world and crowd surfing with Nick Griffin’s head…

Photography courtesy of Cico Books

Your background is as a graphic designer – do you think the skills you picked up during your training have helped you in your cake baking career at all?
I was a self-taught designer and I’m a self-taught baker so I never had any training for either! I definitely think there are transferable skills though and it’s valuable to learn how to apply yourself and your creativity to different things; design skills are always useful these days.

What excites you most about being in the cake baking industry?
I think it is a really exciting time for food in the UK; take a look at the Experimental Food Society of which I am a member. There are lots of young and creative people pushing boundaries in food. I think this is just the beginning and it’s going to get really fun. 

What sparked off the idea of going against the conventional cutesy cupcake?
It was a backlash. I was accidentally thrust into the world of the ‘cupcake’ which was never my intention as a baker, and I found it saturated with style-over-substance, overly sweet cakes, iced in glitter and sprinkles and sold at inflated prices. I wanted to bring it back to quality and play with preconceptions of appearance, for example, baking things that were ugly to look at but using quality ingredients.


Photography courtesy of Cico Books

How did you come up with the ideas for the different recipes in your book?
It didn’t take much! I love horror and the macabre and I always had a fascination with things like insects and dark stories like Sweeney Todd. I just played around for a few hours and that was it.

On average, how long does it take you to perfect a recipe including the design?
Most of my recipes are works-in-progress that I have been developing for years. It starts with a flavour or an idea about a perfect cake – texture, smell, flavour, etc – and then I develop it from there. None of my recipes are ever finished. I’m always tweaking and improving things, or adding a new twist. I have one cake, it was the first one I developed, which I have been working on for years – it always gets better. It’s a very wintry cake so I’ll be making it again soon. I can’t wait!

How did you end up working with Paul Parker on the illustrations in your book?
I originally got in touch with an artist I really admire called Richard ‘French’ Sayer. He makes these very beautiful dark and twisted black and white drawings, we had a few meetings about the project and he loved the idea, but once we got started it turned out it wasn’t a perfect fit for the book so he recommended Paul and straight away he completely nailed it. Paul’s work is much more colourful and the comic book/graphic horror novel style was exactly what I wanted. Everything I described to him he produced perfectly. He’s really young and just getting started but I think he’s going to do great things!

Photography courtesy of Cico Books

Have you had any cake baking disasters?
I once made a sculpture of Nick Griffin’s head for an event called ‘ The British Internationalists Party’. I spent about eight hours on it but it died (due to structural issues). We used it anyway and it crowd surfed at a gig, completely deformed by then. People were biting chunks out of it on the sweaty dance floor and marzipan ears were flying around – it was all pretty crazy! The worst part of it was that I had to look at images of Nick Griffin for a full day.

What’s the best cupcake you’ve ever had?
Definitely the best cupcake I’ve ever had is my vanilla with passionfruit, coconut & toasted almond. It really is just the perfect cake – so light and fluffy with a slight chewy texture at the top and beautiful vanilla flavours with gentle creamy buttercream and the sharpness and flavour of the passionfruit balances any sweetness. I made it the perfect cupcake for me, so I definitely say that’s the best one I’ve had…

Who do you most admire in the cake baking industry and why?
There are some really talented cake sculptors, such as Michelle Wibowo and Louise from Love to Cake, but the really exciting people for me in food are people like Bompas & Parr who bring art and science into food creation and push boundaries with everything they do.

What’s next for Lily Vanilli?
I’m launching at Harrods at the moment! This is a huge step for me as they are my first supplier. We will keep it seasonal and creative with new flavours each month. This month sees a special ‘Bonfire night’ cupcake. It’s a warm, wintery spiced cake, with a light lemon frosting and a popping candy chocolate disk with caremelised biscuit. It explodes in your mouth and tastes delicious! I think it’s a real sign of progress for foods in the UK that one of the worlds most visited and prestigious food halls would take a chance on an artisan baker from East London… I’m very excited!

Lily’s new book ‘A Zombie Ate My Cupcake!’ is published by Cico Books and can be purchased here. 

Categories ,A Zombie Ate My Cupcake, ,Bompas & Parr, ,Downing Street, ,Elton John, ,Experimental Food Society, ,Harrods, ,Hello Kitty, ,Henry Holland, ,Kat Phan, ,Levi’s, ,Lily Jones, ,Lily Vanilli, ,Michelle Wibowo, ,Nick Griffin, ,Paul Parker, ,Richard ‘French’ Sayer, ,Saatchi Gallery, ,Sadie Frost, ,Sweeney Todd, ,The Courvoisier Future 500, ,The Observer Magazine, ,The Sunday Times

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with cake designer and alternative baker Lily Vanilli, a.k.a. Lily Jones

Photography courtesy of Michael Clements

I first heard of Lily Vanilli last year when I read an article in The Observer Magazine about the candidates who made the shortlist for Courvoisier The Future 500 (2009). The graphic designer-turned-bespoke cake designer was listed in the top five and cited as one of the rising stars to watch for her innovative approach to cake baking.

Turning the cupcake business on its head, Lily’s delicious cakes are the antithesis of the conventional, cutesy cupcake with their unusual and macabre themes. Her fabulous creations are essentially mini edible sculptures (e.g marzipan beetles, morbid meringue bones, etc), an aesthetic delight, which are all crafted by hand in Lily’s kitchen in East London. This, combined with unusual ingredients such as bacon and avocado and a killer melt-in-the mouth sponge recipe, makes for a thrilling culinary experience. Speaking as a dessert fiend and as someone who has sampled Lily’s gourmet cakes, I have never been happier to move over to the dark side of cake!

Lily’s imaginative style to cake baking and kooky creations have earned her somewhat of a cult status within the industry and her decadent cupcakes, which are tailored specifically for each occasion, have featured at parties for Elton John, Henry Holland, Sadie Frost, Hello Kitty, Downing Street, Saatchi Gallery, Levi’s and The Sunday Times. Not bad for someone who only started baking as a hobby.


Photography courtesy of Cico Books

Last month saw the launch of Lily’s first ever book, ‘A Zombie Ate My Cupcake’, in which she shares her secret recipes for the first time ever. Guaranteed to be unlike any cake baking book you already own, ‘A Zombie Ate My Cupcake!’ is a graphic horror novel/cookbook comic featuring 25 gory recipes ranging from Sweeney Todd’s Surprise, a chocolate cupcake which looks like a pie with a severed bloodied finger poking out of it, to Bleeding Hearts, which, well, looks like squashed bleeding hearts with arteries and veins attached ‘n’ all.

Featuring other sweet treats aptly named ‘Eerie Eyeballs’, ‘Shattered Glass’ and ‘Marzipan Beetles’, the book is a visual feast, fusing the worlds of art and cuisine. With quirky detailed comic illustrations provided by up-and-coming illustrator Paul Parker, ‘A Zombie Ate My Cupcake!’ is a must for any cupcake enthusiast who is ready to take on the challenge of some slightly more sinister baking.

To celebrate the launch of Lily’s new book and her cupcake range at Harrods, Amelia’s Magazine caught up with the alternative cake designer and baker to talk about experimental food movements, taking on the cupcake world and crowd surfing with Nick Griffin’s head…

Photography courtesy of Cico Books

Your background is as a graphic designer – do you think the skills you picked up during your training have helped you in your cake baking career at all?
I was a self-taught designer and I’m a self-taught baker so I never had any training for either! I definitely think there are transferable skills though and it’s valuable to learn how to apply yourself and your creativity to different things; design skills are always useful these days.

What excites you most about being in the cake baking industry?
I think it is a really exciting time for food in the UK; take a look at the Experimental Food Society of which I am a member. There are lots of young and creative people pushing boundaries in food. I think this is just the beginning and it’s going to get really fun. 

What sparked off the idea of going against the conventional cutesy cupcake?
It was a backlash. I was accidentally thrust into the world of the ‘cupcake’ which was never my intention as a baker, and I found it saturated with style-over-substance, overly sweet cakes, iced in glitter and sprinkles and sold at inflated prices. I wanted to bring it back to quality and play with preconceptions of appearance, for example, baking things that were ugly to look at but using quality ingredients.


Photography courtesy of Cico Books

How did you come up with the ideas for the different recipes in your book?
It didn’t take much! I love horror and the macabre and I always had a fascination with things like insects and dark stories like Sweeney Todd. I just played around for a few hours and that was it.

On average, how long does it take you to perfect a recipe including the design?
Most of my recipes are works-in-progress that I have been developing for years. It starts with a flavour or an idea about a perfect cake – texture, smell, flavour, etc – and then I develop it from there. None of my recipes are ever finished. I’m always tweaking and improving things, or adding a new twist. I have one cake, it was the first one I developed, which I have been working on for years – it always gets better. It’s a very wintry cake so I’ll be making it again soon. I can’t wait!

How did you end up working with Paul Parker on the illustrations in your book?
I originally got in touch with an artist I really admire called Richard ‘French’ Sayer. He makes these very beautiful dark and twisted black and white drawings, we had a few meetings about the project and he loved the idea, but once we got started it turned out it wasn’t a perfect fit for the book so he recommended Paul and straight away he completely nailed it. Paul’s work is much more colourful and the comic book/graphic horror novel style was exactly what I wanted. Everything I described to him he produced perfectly. He’s really young and just getting started but I think he’s going to do great things!

Photography courtesy of Cico Books

Have you had any cake baking disasters?
I once made a sculpture of Nick Griffin’s head for an event called ‘ The British Internationalists Party’. I spent about eight hours on it but it died (due to structural issues). We used it anyway and it crowd surfed at a gig, completely deformed by then. People were biting chunks out of it on the sweaty dance floor and marzipan ears were flying around – it was all pretty crazy! The worst part of it was that I had to look at images of Nick Griffin for a full day.

What’s the best cupcake you’ve ever had?
Definitely the best cupcake I’ve ever had is my vanilla with passionfruit, coconut & toasted almond. It really is just the perfect cake – so light and fluffy with a slight chewy texture at the top and beautiful vanilla flavours with gentle creamy buttercream and the sharpness and flavour of the passionfruit balances any sweetness. I made it the perfect cupcake for me, so I definitely say that’s the best one I’ve had…

Who do you most admire in the cake baking industry and why?
There are some really talented cake sculptors, such as Michelle Wibowo and Louise from Love to Cake, but the really exciting people for me in food are people like Bompas & Parr who bring art and science into food creation and push boundaries with everything they do.

What’s next for Lily Vanilli?
I’m launching at Harrods at the moment! This is a huge step for me as they are my first supplier. We will keep it seasonal and creative with new flavours each month. This month sees a special ‘Bonfire night’ cupcake. It’s a warm, wintery spiced cake, with a light lemon frosting and a popping candy chocolate disk with caremelised biscuit. It explodes in your mouth and tastes delicious! I think it’s a real sign of progress for foods in the UK that one of the worlds most visited and prestigious food halls would take a chance on an artisan baker from East London… I’m very excited!

Lily’s new book ‘A Zombie Ate My Cupcake!’ is published by Cico Books and can be purchased here. 

Categories ,A Zombie Ate My Cupcake, ,Bompas & Parr, ,Downing Street, ,Elton John, ,Experimental Food Society, ,Harrods, ,Hello Kitty, ,Henry Holland, ,Kat Phan, ,Levi’s, ,Lily Jones, ,Lily Vanilli, ,Michelle Wibowo, ,Nick Griffin, ,Paul Parker, ,Richard ‘French’ Sayer, ,Saatchi Gallery, ,Sadie Frost, ,Sweeney Todd, ,The Courvoisier Future 500, ,The Observer Magazine, ,The Sunday Times

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