Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Michael Van Der Ham (by Amelia)

Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

I cannot tell a lie, order sickness having tried in vain for several seasons to get tickets, doctor I was super excited to finally be in attendance at a Mark Fast show. Knitwear was my first love. I spent much of teens knitting 80s tastic jumpers and despite opting to specialise in printed textile design at university I eventually started a knitwear label at the same time as Amelia’s Magazine. Unfortunately it didn’t last because it soon became apparent that the magazine was going to dominate my time and energy, so now big bags of ethically dyed rare breed wool sit languishing in my parents attic.

Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow.

Knitwear has been overlooked by high fashion for a long time, but in recent times there have been encouraging signs of its resurgence – with designers such as Mark Fast, Cooperative Designs and Alice Palmer leading the way. Mark has become well known for sexy figure hugging pieces with dramatic details that he creates using specialised techniques.

Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

This season he worked predominantly in merino wool in tones of oatmeal, beige, shades of orange and black to create ribbed and ridged bodycon numbers fit for the most glamourous cocktail party. He also worked in leather with Canadian retailer Danier to create complementary pieces that included sexy corseted tops, wide legged trousers and buttersoft crop jackets, worn with sheer fabric and swishing straps. High necks followed a familiar trend for A/W 2011, as did the use of deep orange. One particular standout piece was a massive round shouldered ridged cardigan that called to mind a similar piece by fellow design supremo Georgia Hardinge.

Dresses and coats with plush shoulder bolsters worked especially well, as did the plump trim on a mini dress worn with a giant fluffy hat and platforms. Also of note was a swirling maxi skirted number with covered arms that only left the shoulders sexily bare. Boots were knee high and sexily louche and accessories included big bangles and spiky neckpieces.

The show ended on a showpiece backless leather hooded coat, trailing a huge train behind like a sweeping Hollywood baddie. Once more Mark Fast chose normal sized women to model his collection with the use of several “plus size” models. These lush beauties only served to emphasise the extreme skinniness of the few extremely bony girls included in the show. And the joy of it? These dresses arguably worked way better on the girls that looked more like real women.

This is one happy bunny to have at last seen a Mark Fast show.
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

I cannot tell a lie, pharmacy having tried in vain for several seasons to get tickets, here I was super excited to finally be in attendance at a Mark Fast show. Knitwear was my first love. I spent much of teens knitting 80s tastic jumpers and despite opting to specialise in printed textile design at university I eventually started a knitwear label at the same time as Amelia’s Magazine. Unfortunately it didn’t last because it soon became apparent that the magazine was going to dominate my time and energy, sildenafil so now big bags of ethically dyed rare breed wool sit languishing in my parents attic.

Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow.

Knitwear has been overlooked by high fashion for a long time, but in recent times there have been encouraging signs of its resurgence – with designers such as Mark Fast, Cooperative Designs and Alice Palmer leading the way. Mark has become well known for sexy figure hugging pieces with dramatic details that he creates using specialised techniques.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

This season he worked predominantly in merino wool in tones of oatmeal, beige, shades of orange and black to create ribbed and ridged bodycon numbers fit for the most glamourous cocktail party. He also worked in leather with Canadian retailer Danier to create complementary pieces that included sexy corseted tops, wide legged trousers and buttersoft crop jackets, worn with sheer fabric and swishing straps. High necks followed a familiar trend for A/W 2011, as did the use of deep orange. One particular standout piece was a massive round shouldered ridged cardigan that called to mind a similar piece by fellow design supremo Georgia Hardinge.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Dresses and coats with plush shoulder bolsters worked especially well, as did the plump trim on a mini dress worn with a giant fluffy hat and platforms. Also of note was a swirling maxi skirted number with covered arms that only left the shoulders sexily bare. Boots were knee high and sexily louche and accessories included big bangles and spiky neckpieces.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended on a showpiece backless leather hooded coat, trailing a huge train behind like a sweeping Hollywood baddie. Once more Mark Fast chose normal sized women to model his collection with the use of several “plus size” models. These lush beauties only served to emphasise the extreme skinniness of the few extremely bony girls included in the show. And the joy of it? These dresses arguably worked way better on the girls that looked more like real women.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

This is one happy bunny to have at last seen a Mark Fast show.
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

I cannot tell a lie, rx having tried in vain for several seasons to get tickets, case I was super excited to finally be in attendance at a Mark Fast show. Knitwear was my first love. I spent much of teens knitting 80s tastic jumpers and despite opting to specialise in printed textile design at university I eventually started a knitwear label at the same time as Amelia’s Magazine. Unfortunately it didn’t last because it soon became apparent that the magazine was going to dominate my time and energy, more about so now big bags of ethically dyed rare breed wool sit languishing in my parents attic.

Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow.

Knitwear has been overlooked by high fashion for a long time, but in recent times there have been encouraging signs of its resurgence – with designers such as Mark Fast, Cooperative Designs and Alice Palmer leading the way. Mark has become well known for sexy figure hugging pieces with dramatic details that he creates using specialised techniques.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

This season he worked predominantly in merino wool in tones of oatmeal, beige, shades of orange and black to create ribbed and ridged bodycon numbers fit for the most glamourous cocktail party. He also worked in leather with Canadian retailer Danier to create complementary pieces that included sexy corseted tops, wide legged trousers and buttersoft crop jackets, worn with sheer fabric and swishing straps. High necks followed a familiar trend for A/W 2011, as did the use of deep orange. One particular standout piece was a massive round shouldered ridged cardigan that called to mind a similar piece by fellow design innovator Georgia Hardinge.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Dresses and coats with plush shoulder bolsters worked especially well, as did the plump trim on a mini dress worn with a giant fluffy hat and platforms. Also of note was a swirling maxi skirted number with covered arms that only left the shoulders sexily bare. Boots were knee high and louche; accessories included big bangles and spiky neckpieces.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended on a showpiece backless leather hooded coat, trailing a huge train behind like a sweeping Hollywood baddie. Once more Mark Fast chose normal sized women to model his collection with the use of several “plus size” models. These lush beauties only served to emphasise the extreme skinniness of the few extremely bony girls included in the show. And the joy of it? These dresses arguably worked way better on the girls that looked more like real women.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

This is one happy bunny to have at last seen a Mark Fast show.
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

I cannot tell a lie, prescription having tried in vain for several seasons to get tickets, remedy I was super excited to finally be in attendance at a Mark Fast show. Knitwear was my first love: I spent much of teens knitting 80s tastic jumpers and despite opting to specialise in printed textile design at university I eventually started a knitwear label at the same time as Amelia’s Magazine. Unfortunately it became apparent that the magazine was going to dominate my time and energy, stomach so now my big bags of ethically dyed rare breed wool sit languishing in my parents attic.

Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow.

Knitwear has been overlooked by high fashion for a long time, but in recent years there have been encouraging signs of its resurgence – with designers such as Mark Fast, Cooperative Designs and Alice Palmer leading the way. Mark has become well known for sexy figure hugging pieces with dramatic details that he creates using specialised techniques.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Loving the fairy light look!

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

This season he worked predominantly in merino wool in oatmeal, beige, shades of orange and black to create ribbed and ridged bodycon numbers fit for the most glamourous cocktail party. He also worked in leather with Canadian retailer Danier to create complementary pieces that included sexy corseted tops, wide legged trousers and buttersoft crop jackets, worn with sheer fabric and swishing straps. High necks followed a familiar trend for A/W 2011, as did the use of deep orange. One particular standout piece was a massive round shouldered ridged cardigan that called to mind a similar piece by fellow design innovator Georgia Hardinge.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Dresses and coats with plush shoulder bolsters worked especially well, as did the plump trim on a mini dress worn with a giant fluffy hat and platforms. Also of note was a swirling maxi skirted number with covered arms that only left the shoulders sexily bare. Boots were knee high and louche; accessories included big bangles and spiky neckpieces.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended on a showpiece backless leather hooded coat, trailing a huge train behind like a sweeping Hollywood baddie. Once more Mark Fast chose normal sized women to model his collection with the use of several “plus size” models. These lush beauties only served to emphasise the extreme skinniness of the few extremely bony girls included in the show. And the joy of it? These dresses arguably worked way better on the models of more normal size.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

This is one happy bunny to have at last seen a Mark Fast show.
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

I cannot tell a lie, more about having tried in vain for several seasons to get tickets, no rx I was super excited to finally be in attendance at a Mark Fast show. Knitwear was my first love: I spent much of teens knitting 80s tastic jumpers and despite opting to specialise in printed textile design at university I eventually started a knitwear label at the same time as Amelia’s Magazine. Unfortunately it became apparent that the magazine was going to dominate my time and energy, so now my big bags of ethically dyed rare breed wool sit languishing in my parents attic.

Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow.

Knitwear has been overlooked by high fashion for a long time, but in recent years there have been encouraging signs of its resurgence – with designers such as Mark Fast, Cooperative Designs and Alice Palmer leading the way. Mark has become well known for sexy figure hugging pieces with dramatic details that he creates using specialised techniques.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Loving the fairy light look!

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

This season he worked predominantly in merino wool in oatmeal, beige, shades of orange and black to create ribbed and ridged bodycon numbers fit for the most glamourous cocktail party. He also worked in leather with Canadian retailer Danier to create complementary pieces that included sexy corseted tops, wide legged trousers and buttersoft crop jackets, worn with sheer fabric and swishing straps. High necks followed a familiar trend for A/W 2011, as did the use of deep orange. One particular standout piece was a massive round shouldered ridged cardigan that called to mind a similar piece by fellow design innovator Georgia Hardinge.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Dresses and coats with plush shoulder bolsters worked especially well, as did the plump trim on a mini dress worn with a giant fluffy hat and platforms. Also of note was a swirling maxi skirted number with covered arms that only left the shoulders sexily bare. Boots were knee high and louche; accessories included big bangles and spiky neckpieces.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended on a showpiece backless leather hooded coat, trailing a huge train behind like a sweeping Hollywood baddie. Once more Mark Fast chose normal sized women to model his collection with the use of several “plus size” models. These lush beauties only served to emphasise the extreme skinniness of the few extremely bony girls included in the show. And the joy of it? These dresses arguably worked way better on the models of more normal size.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

This is one happy bunny to have at last seen a Mark Fast show.
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Jenny Lloyd
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Jenny Lloyd.

Michael Van Der Ham was held at the New Gen space in Billingsgate, visit this site and in the queue I bumped into *name drop alert* Courtney of Forward PR, rx Jeff Garner of Prophetik, Louisa of Cent Magazine and Jessica of Vogue. Usually I just slink in and out of shows as fast as possible, so it was nice to have a friendly little crew to hang out with as we made the most of free food laid on courtesy of Topshop… glasses of champagne, or juice… and creamy butternut squash risotto served in dinky little pots: quite possibly the best risotto I have ever tasted.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

This was only Michael Van Der Ham‘s second stand alone show, and as we were ushered in to our seats I was left wondering why the hell it had been so hard to get tickets for New Gen shows… the Billingsgate venue is huge, and the PR girls had to hurry standing tickets into seats as the lights went down. It was not exactly busy for either of the shows that I attended here, so it’s a shame that allocation of tickets was so tight.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie HarnettMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie Harnett
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie Harnett.

Michael Van Der Ham has made his name from a unique cut and paste approach to fashion. Last season he mashed up all sorts of clashing fabrics to create something universally lauded but perhaps not wholly wearable. This season he appeared to address the commerciality question, so first out onto the catwalk came a series of eminently desirable velvet outfits in a range of jewel brights. Each one featured his signature asymmetric draped tailoring, but rendered all in one shade: delicious rose, fuchsia, lime, turquoise and orange.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Madi
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Madi.

From then on in we were in more familiar territory: assorted fabric panels and intarsia knitwear inspired by vintage floral paisleys in 70s style shades of purple and orange, complete with accents of lurex. Heavily tasseled trousers were fun for editorial but of questionable taste for the buying public; far more successful were the wide legged high waisted trousers worn with panelled wool crop jackets.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril KellyMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

But for me the standouts were unquestionably the range of sumptuous velvet dresses. Want. One. Experimenting with more wearable concepts suits Michael Van Der Ham well.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

You can read Jemma Crow’s review of this show here and see more of Katie Harnett’s work in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Assymetrical, ,Avril Kelly, ,Billingsgate, ,Cent Magazine, ,Champagne, ,Courtney Blackman, ,Forward PR, ,Intarsia, ,Jeff Garner, ,Jemma Crow, ,Jenny Lloyd, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Katie Harnett, ,Louisa Lau, ,Lurex, ,Madi, ,Madi Illustrates, ,Michael van der Ham, ,New Gen, ,Old Billingsgate, ,Prophetik, ,Risotto, ,topshop, ,vogue

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dear Fashion Diary: an interview with Emmi Ojala

Dear Fashion Diary

How did you first come across the idea of the Free Fashion Challenge, and why did you decide to take part? 


The Free Fashion Challenge was an initiative of Laura de Jong, who studied in the same fashion school (Amsterdam Fashion Institute) with me. She started the project to challenge fashionistas to rethink fashion and personal style outside the cycle of consumption. A teacher of mine introduced me to the project, asking if I would be interested in participating in the challenge. First it felt like a big commitment to sign up for not shopping for a year, but it was such an intriguing challenge that I ended up saying yes. I was curious to see how well I would cope, and so many people around me were shocked by the mere idea that it made me want to prove that spending 365 days without shopping would be doable.

Dear Fashion Journal

What was the biggest challenge when you stopped shopping for a whole year?
The biggest challenge was trying not to get bored with my clothes and find ways to cope when my clothes started to wear out. By the end of the year, I didn’t have one single pair of stockings without holes, so I always wore two on top of each other to cover the rips. I also started spending more time restyling my old clothes in attempts of staying excited about my outfits. It gave me the same happy feeling you get when you wear something new for the first time.

Dear Fashion Journal

And what was the most surprising thing that you learnt after a year without spending on clothes?
Most surprising thing I learned was that not shopping wasn’t actually that difficult. The only thing that I really missed was treasure hunting in second hand shops, but other than that I hardly had any temptations to spend on clothes.

Dear Fashion Journal

How did you learn to make your clothes fit seasonal trends, without buying new stuff?

My closet stayed pretty up-to-date thanks to swapping with friends and visiting my mom’s closet in search for old items. I was so happy that she had kept some of her golden oldies, because trends go around, come around, and suddenly old items begin to look contemporary again. Also DIY helps a lot if one wants to be trendy without spending; you can dye your clothes, cut them up and sew them back together into something fresh. The cyberspace is full of great DIY tutorials, so you can always find ways to customize your clothes even if you weren’t an expert on sewing.

Dear Fashion Journal

What was the process behind the creation of Dear Fashion Journal? What were you trying to achieve?

During the Free Fashion Challenge, all us participants wrote about our experiences on a blog. There were quite some thought evoking aha-moments documented there, so after the challenge was over, I wanted to dig a bit deeper and collect stories inspired by those experiences into a printed publication. My goal was to arouse thoughts on our attitudes towards fashion and ever-changing trends, and do so without nagging about green this and eco that. I wanted to tell personal stories that would inspire people to be creative with fashion and think about their clothes as something valuable rather than throwaway pieces. 


Dear Fashion Diary

How did you set about collecting all your data, and finding illustrators to work with you on the journal? 

The entire magazine is based on the experiences of 30 people, who took part in the year of not shopping. I interviewed many of them to find out what they had learned, what had been their most striking experiences and if their thoughts on fashion and style had changed. All the articles in the magazine are inspired by those discussions and by the blog that we wrote during the challenge.

I have always loved richly illustrated books and magazines, so I knew from the beginning that Dear Fashion Journal would have to be like that, too. I had a wish-list of illustrators I wanted to work with, and was over the moon to get to feature illustrations from Daria Hlazatova and Krister Selin, both of whom I knew from Amelia’s Magazine. I also found some great artists via friends, blogs and portfolio sites like Behance. Next to that, me and my best friend Sarah Meers also spent a few long weekends illustrating some of the articles for the journal ourselves.


Dear Fashion Diary

You have since created a book called Dear Fashion Diary, which is a place where people can record their relationship with clothes – how did this come about?
Before I decided to self-publish Dear Fashion Journal, I got in touch with BIS Publishers and introduced the concept to them. The journal gave them an idea about a kind of a fashion diary, and they asked if I would be interested in working on something like that. Coincidentally, me and Laura de Jong (the founder of Free Fashion Challenge) had already earlier been brainstorming about making a notebook full of fashion assignments, so we took on the project together and so Dear Fashion Diary was born.

Where can people in the UK find a copy of Dear Fashion Diary?


You can find the Diary at Tate Modern, Podshop, Blackwells, Rizzoli Bookshop, Waterstones as well as order it through Amazon.

The journal can be ordered online here.

What next? Any other projects in the pipeline?

For now, I’m happily busy illustrating a children’s book and freelancing for a few other clients, whilst waiting for my brain to blurt out the next great idea for a project of my own!

Emmi Ojala is featured in Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration. You can follow her travels in illustration, fashion and sustainability on twitter here.

Categories ,Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration, ,Amsterdam Fashion Institute, ,BIS Publishers, ,Blackwells, ,Daria Hlazatova, ,Dear Fashion Diary, ,Dear Fashion Journal, ,Emmi Ojala, ,ethical, ,fashion, ,Free Fashion Challenge, ,illustration, ,interview, ,Krister Selin, ,Laura de Jong, ,Podshop, ,Rizzoli Bookshop, ,Sarah Meers, ,sustainable, ,Tate Modern, ,Waterstones

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Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration (ACOFI) Launch Party – In Pictures – Daytime!


Some of the goodies…


Lily Vanilli‘s fabulous scones


Illustrator Joana Faria draws a guest


Dr. Hauschka massages


Illustrator Zarina Liew


Gabby Young and Artist Andrea pose with Andrea’s tour poster illustration


Illustrator Zarina Liew chats to Susie Bubble


Sally Mumby Croft enjoys a Pukka Tea


Illustrator Jenny Robins with a day’s work!


Illustrator Naomi Law


Sally Mumby Croft flashes her leather hotpants…


Fashion writers Michael Ford and Ellen Grace Jones


Illustrator Michelle Urvall Nyrén


Amelia with Vogue’s Jessica Bumpus and stylist Rebekah Roy being photographed by Courtney of Forward PR!

All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Anastasia Duck, ,Artist Andrea, ,Dr. Hauschka Bath Care Kit, ,Ellen Grace Jones, ,gabby young, ,Jenny Robins, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Joana Faria, ,Lily Vanilli, ,Matt Bramford, ,Michael Ford, ,Naomi Law, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Sally Mumby-Croft, ,Susie Bubble, ,The Real Runway, ,vogue, ,Zarina Liew

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Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration Launch Party Review: by Amelia

Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), side effects store so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, link so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, stuff when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), abortion so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), price so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, ailment so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), viagra approved so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
The Pipettes by Emma Block
The Pipettes by Emma Block.

It’s been a long run up to the official launch of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration… but on Friday it was finally party time at 123 Bethnal Green Road.

ACOFI launch Lily Vanilli cake
Bespoke Lily Vanilli cakes for the launch.

My day began with a speedy cycle up to get my hair *done* at Shine on the Green up in Stoke Newington, medications possibly not foreseeing the consequences of cycling back again against a strong wind. In the end my new glossy look held up admirably well, troche and was admired by everyone.

ACOFI launch Jan 11 Shine on Green
Getting my hair *done* at Shine on the Green.

Matt Bramford and Sally Mumby-Croft then joined me to help lug boxes of goodie bag gifts from my house over to 123 Bethnal Green Road – the delay ensuring the miraculous delivery of my beautiful Joanna Cave earrings which made it just in time from Greece.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Matt Bramford
Matt carrying boxes.

By this time we were running seriously behind, pharm so goodie bag stuffing took on a somewhat manic quality. Luckily Lucy and Nicholas soon joined us from Forward PR, followed by the lovely Heather and Felicity of Dr.Hauschka. Thank god I didn’t try to stuff the goodie bags at home by myself.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-packing bags
Packing the goodie bags.

Felicity whisked me upstairs to apply my Dr.Hauschka make up in super speedy style (why were make up artists never this fast when I did fashion shoots?!) and I emerged looking super polished and sleek. Perfect. I totally attribute all the compliments I received on the night to the skills of Shine on the Green and Dr.Hauschka. Now if only I could achieve the same effect by myself! The next day my boyfriend commented that I looked like a scarecrow once again. Sigh. Now I know why famous people depend so much on their teams of stylists.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Dr.Hauschka makeup
Felicity from Dr.Hauschka applies my makeup.

We finished with minutes to spare and I dashed downstairs to find already in place my crew of eager illustrators, Alexandra with her Pukka tea goodness… and the glorious pearlescent handiwork of Lily Vanilli perfectly arranged in the central archway just as the guests started to turn up. By this stage I realised I hadn’t eaten anything since my 7am breakfast of porridge, on which I blame the development of a strange form of reverse word Tourettes (I think Matt Bramford may mention one classic moment in his blog). It’s a miracle I made any sense in interviews.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Lily Vanilli
A close up of the fabulous Lily Vanilli concoction.

Laurel from i-D was one of the first to arrive and between 3-7pm the cosy Bunker Cafe was a whirlwind of activity.

Laurel Harple of i-D by Antonia Parker
Laurel Harple of i-D by Antonia Parker.

Everyone admired my lilac Beautiful Soul cape, Joanna Cave earrings and Nina Dolcetti shoes… which were exceedingly comfortable as promised by the designer Elisalex.

Jenny Robins creates a live sketch
Jenny Robins creates a live sketch.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Andrea Peterson
Andrea Peterson producing a live sketch. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Andrea Peterson Nyla
Andrea’s finished illustration of Nyla from Ethical Heaven.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Michelle Urvall Nyren & AbbyWright
Illustrators Michelle Urvall Nyren and Abby Wright. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

I was thrilled that so many people came – and it was wonderful to chat to so many bloggers that I’ve only met in the online world and then watch them being illustrated in a variety of utterly unique styles.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Gabby Young&Andrea Peterson
Gabby Young popped in to say hello!

Guests also received a relaxing hand massage the Dr.Hauschka way thanks to Felicity. The piles of Lily Vanilli mini scones and brownies quickly vanished, washed down with Pukka tea served in vintage teacups courtesy of 123 Bethnal Green Road.

ACOFI launch-Laurel Harple-Dr.Hauschka, Laurel i-D
Laurel Harple receives a Dr.Hauschka hand massage.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Susie Bubble
Susie Bubble. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Prince Cassius
Prince Cassius. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Jessica Bumpus, Amelia, Rebekah Roy
With Jessica Bumpus of Vogue and stylist Rebekah Roy. Photography by Matt Bramford.

By 7pm people started to arrive for the evening party and I realised that my wobbling had less to do with my Nina Dolcetti platforms and more to do with my lack of blood sugar. But then Jessica Bumpus from Vogue arrived and the adrenalin must have kicked in because I carried on straight through the evening without food, drink, or even a pee.

Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Artist Andrea
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Andrea Peterson.

ACOFI launch-Amelia Gregory-6 Day Riot
6 Day Riot.

Upstairs 6 Day Riot kick started the night’s proceedings with a set of rollicking tunes, singer Tamara easily charming the room and converting a whole new army of fans.

ACOFI launch-Max Petrossi-The Pipettes
The Pipettes. Photography by Max Petrossi.

Then lovely Pipettes Gwenno and Ani Saunders took to the decks in their inimitable polka dot outfits and got everyone dancing, lubricated by oodles of delicious Adnams beers and Vodka O.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Laura ForwardPR
Laura of Forward PR was a star behind the bar.

Our bar was woefully understaffed (my fault entirely) and I thought for a moment that I would have to step in and help out, but in the end Nicholas and Laura of Forward PR managed brilliantly and kept up the energy with lots of dance moves: much admiration and thanks. By the end of the night I hear that even The Pipettes were doing a stint behind the bar. Community effort, now that’s what I like!

ACOFI launch-Max Petrossi-Ballad Of and party
Ballad Of and other guests. Photography by Max Petrossi.

Downstairs Forward PR‘s Francesca proved an amazing saleswoman, shifting loads of books in my specially made fabric goodie bags containing a bespoke Moleskine notebook, my special Tatty Devine Cutlass Necklace in a new colourway, Dr.Hauschka goodies aplenty, Pukka teabags, a reclaimed leather heart keyring from 123, a copy of the last ever issue of Amelia’s Magazine in print and a stack of limited edition postcards. Thankyou so much everyone who bought a book – I really really appreciate it.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-goodie bags
The huge pile of goodie bags.

I also got to cut the enormous pink flowery centrepiece by Lily Vanilli, which, being double tiered, did indeed look like a totally bonkers wedding cake. Harriet of Tatty Devine then did sterling business cutting it up and handing out the delicious white chocolate fluffy concoction to appreciative guests.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Amelia Gregory
Cutting the cake. Photography by Matt Bramford.

MattBramford_ACOFI_PrickYrFinger,Amelia,TattyDevine
With my ladies Rachael and Louise from Prick Your Finger and Harriet and Rosie of Tatty Devine.

Towards the end of the night my old friend Will of the Mystery Jets arrived and put in a stonking last set, accompanied on the decks by his beautiful female friends. And the Robots in Disguise put in a fashionably late appearance.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Will Mystery jets
Will of the Mystery Jets with his friends.

Robots in Disguise with Amelia
Robots in Disguise were in my first ever Amelia’s Magazine. They’re ace. Photography by Matt Bramford.

Many thanks to everyone who helped out on the night, especially my star contributors Matt and Sally and of course the wonderful Courtney and her team from Forward PR: Laura, Francesca and Nicholas. And huge thanks to Ross and Michelle of 123 Bethnal Green Road for hosting such a memorable party, the illustrators who helped out, Liz Johnson-Artur and Max Petrossi for taking photos, Beautiful Soul, Nina Dolcetti and Joanna Cave for their wonderful designs and 6 Day Riot, The Pipettes and Will for entertaining my guests. More massive thanks to my partners – 123, Tatty Devine, Moleskine, Dr.Hauschka, Lily Vanilli, Pukka Teas, Adnams and Vodka O – for ensuring a truly memorable event.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Lily Vanilli cake
Decimating the cake.

And of course I can’t leave out a big thanks (I’m running out of large adjectives here) to all my guests, especially all of those who bought the book and have written such a wealth of amazing blog posts about the event. I am so sorry I didn’t get to meet everyone, but thankyou thankyou thankyou for supporting my ACOFI adventure xxx

ACOFI launch Jan 11-clear up
Cleaning up the next day: teacups and limes. Just about sums it up!

If you didn’t get a chance to do so at the launch do remember to get along and check out the Eco Pop Up shop instore at 123 for two weeks from the 28th January. It features many of the fabulous ethical designers from my book. Look out for lots of blogs featuring illustrations from the event… coming up shortly. And you can buy the book online on my website with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Don’t forget to also check out the Skype video interviews with featured illustrators in the book over on my Amelia’s House youtube channel.

Categories ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,6 Day Riot, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Ani Saunders, ,Antonia Parker, ,Beautiful Soul, ,Bunker Cafe, ,Courtney Blackman, ,Dr.Hauschka, ,Eco fashion, ,Emma Block, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Ethical Heaven, ,gabby young, ,Gwenno Saunders, ,i-D, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Joanna Cave, ,Laurel Harple, ,Liz Johnson-Artur, ,Matt Bramford, ,Max Petrossi, ,Moleskine, ,Mystery Jets, ,Nina Dolcetti, ,Nyla, ,Prick your Finger, ,Prince Cassius, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Robots in Disguise, ,Scout Hut, ,Shine on the Green, ,The Pipettes, ,vogue

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Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration Launch Party Review: by Amelia

Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), side effects store so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, link so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, stuff when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), abortion so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), price so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, ailment so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani
Nina Dolcetti by Natsuki Otani.

Were you already considering how to make ethical shoes whilst you were studying at Cordwainers?
Absolutely. I come from a family of ethical fashion pioneers (Orsola de Castro of From Somewhere is my Mum), viagra approved so it was a no-brainer for me. I know too much about the quantity of waste produced by the fashion industry and the exploitation of people and environment, so of course I was set on running my label as ethically and morally as I could.

When did you first start to work with your signature wedge and what was the process of finding the perfect shape?
The first drawing I did of my signature curved wedge was in a quiet moment at my first Estethica exhibition at London Fashion Week in 2008, when I was eight months pregnant. The wave of inspiration for my next collection had just hit me and I was absorbed in my new designs. It wasn’t until much later that I realised that the curve of the wedge was the exact line, only reversed, of the instep. And thinking about it now, I think the pregnancy definitely had something to do with it too!

Where do you source your materials from? 
I source my offcuts from anywhere and everywhere. I’ve found amazing textured leathers in markets in Spain, been given boxes of beautiful offcuts from other designers, and raided bins in factories. I can find a use for even the smallest scraps. The vegetable tanned leather comes from Italy, and the heels and platforms in cork and wood are hand turned in Norfolk…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Nina Dolcetti’s shoes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.
The Pipettes by Emma Block
The Pipettes by Emma Block.

It’s been a long run up to the official launch of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration… but on Friday it was finally party time at 123 Bethnal Green Road.

ACOFI launch Lily Vanilli cake
Bespoke Lily Vanilli cakes for the launch.

My day began with a speedy cycle up to get my hair *done* at Shine on the Green up in Stoke Newington, medications possibly not foreseeing the consequences of cycling back again against a strong wind. In the end my new glossy look held up admirably well, troche and was admired by everyone.

ACOFI launch Jan 11 Shine on Green
Getting my hair *done* at Shine on the Green.

Matt Bramford and Sally Mumby-Croft then joined me to help lug boxes of goodie bag gifts from my house over to 123 Bethnal Green Road – the delay ensuring the miraculous delivery of my beautiful Joanna Cave earrings which made it just in time from Greece.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Matt Bramford
Matt carrying boxes.

By this time we were running seriously behind, pharm so goodie bag stuffing took on a somewhat manic quality. Luckily Lucy and Nicholas soon joined us from Forward PR, followed by the lovely Heather and Felicity of Dr.Hauschka. Thank god I didn’t try to stuff the goodie bags at home by myself.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-packing bags
Packing the goodie bags.

Felicity whisked me upstairs to apply my Dr.Hauschka make up in super speedy style (why were make up artists never this fast when I did fashion shoots?!) and I emerged looking super polished and sleek. Perfect. I totally attribute all the compliments I received on the night to the skills of Shine on the Green and Dr.Hauschka. Now if only I could achieve the same effect by myself! The next day my boyfriend commented that I looked like a scarecrow once again. Sigh. Now I know why famous people depend so much on their teams of stylists.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Dr.Hauschka makeup
Felicity from Dr.Hauschka applies my makeup.

We finished with minutes to spare and I dashed downstairs to find already in place my crew of eager illustrators, Alexandra with her Pukka tea goodness… and the glorious pearlescent handiwork of Lily Vanilli perfectly arranged in the central archway just as the guests started to turn up. By this stage I realised I hadn’t eaten anything since my 7am breakfast of porridge, on which I blame the development of a strange form of reverse word Tourettes (I think Matt Bramford may mention one classic moment in his blog). It’s a miracle I made any sense in interviews.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Lily Vanilli
A close up of the fabulous Lily Vanilli concoction.

Laurel from i-D was one of the first to arrive and between 3-7pm the cosy Bunker Cafe was a whirlwind of activity.

Laurel Harple of i-D by Antonia Parker
Laurel Harple of i-D by Antonia Parker.

Everyone admired my lilac Beautiful Soul cape, Joanna Cave earrings and Nina Dolcetti shoes… which were exceedingly comfortable as promised by the designer Elisalex.

Jenny Robins creates a live sketch
Jenny Robins creates a live sketch.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Andrea Peterson
Andrea Peterson producing a live sketch. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

Andrea Peterson Nyla
Andrea’s finished illustration of Nyla from Ethical Heaven.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Michelle Urvall Nyren & AbbyWright
Illustrators Michelle Urvall Nyren and Abby Wright. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

I was thrilled that so many people came – and it was wonderful to chat to so many bloggers that I’ve only met in the online world and then watch them being illustrated in a variety of utterly unique styles.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Gabby Young&Andrea Peterson
Gabby Young popped in to say hello!

Guests also received a relaxing hand massage the Dr.Hauschka way thanks to Felicity. The piles of Lily Vanilli mini scones and brownies quickly vanished, washed down with Pukka tea served in vintage teacups courtesy of 123 Bethnal Green Road.

ACOFI launch-Laurel Harple-Dr.Hauschka, Laurel i-D
Laurel Harple receives a Dr.Hauschka hand massage.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Susie Bubble
Susie Bubble. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Prince Cassius
Prince Cassius. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Jessica Bumpus, Amelia, Rebekah Roy
With Jessica Bumpus of Vogue and stylist Rebekah Roy. Photography by Matt Bramford.

By 7pm people started to arrive for the evening party and I realised that my wobbling had less to do with my Nina Dolcetti platforms and more to do with my lack of blood sugar. But then Jessica Bumpus from Vogue arrived and the adrenalin must have kicked in because I carried on straight through the evening without food, drink, or even a pee.

Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Artist Andrea
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Andrea Peterson.

ACOFI launch-Amelia Gregory-6 Day Riot
6 Day Riot.

Upstairs 6 Day Riot kick started the night’s proceedings with a set of rollicking tunes, singer Tamara easily charming the room and converting a whole new army of fans.

ACOFI launch-Max Petrossi-The Pipettes
The Pipettes. Photography by Max Petrossi.

Then lovely Pipettes Gwenno and Ani Saunders took to the decks in their inimitable polka dot outfits and got everyone dancing, lubricated by oodles of delicious Adnams beers and Vodka O.

ACOFI launch-Liz Johnson-Artur-Laura ForwardPR
Laura of Forward PR was a star behind the bar.

Our bar was woefully understaffed (my fault entirely) and I thought for a moment that I would have to step in and help out, but in the end Nicholas and Laura of Forward PR managed brilliantly and kept up the energy with lots of dance moves: much admiration and thanks. By the end of the night I hear that even The Pipettes were doing a stint behind the bar. Community effort, now that’s what I like!

ACOFI launch-Max Petrossi-Ballad Of and party
Ballad Of and other guests. Photography by Max Petrossi.

Downstairs Forward PR‘s Francesca proved an amazing saleswoman, shifting loads of books in my specially made fabric goodie bags containing a bespoke Moleskine notebook, my special Tatty Devine Cutlass Necklace in a new colourway, Dr.Hauschka goodies aplenty, Pukka teabags, a reclaimed leather heart keyring from 123, a copy of the last ever issue of Amelia’s Magazine in print and a stack of limited edition postcards. Thankyou so much everyone who bought a book – I really really appreciate it.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-goodie bags
The huge pile of goodie bags.

I also got to cut the enormous pink flowery centrepiece by Lily Vanilli, which, being double tiered, did indeed look like a totally bonkers wedding cake. Harriet of Tatty Devine then did sterling business cutting it up and handing out the delicious white chocolate fluffy concoction to appreciative guests.

MattBramford_ACOFI_Amelia Gregory
Cutting the cake. Photography by Matt Bramford.

MattBramford_ACOFI_PrickYrFinger,Amelia,TattyDevine
With my ladies Rachael and Louise from Prick Your Finger and Harriet and Rosie of Tatty Devine.

Towards the end of the night my old friend Will of the Mystery Jets arrived and put in a stonking last set, accompanied on the decks by his beautiful female friends. And the Robots in Disguise put in a fashionably late appearance.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Will Mystery jets
Will of the Mystery Jets with his friends.

Robots in Disguise with Amelia
Robots in Disguise were in my first ever Amelia’s Magazine. They’re ace. Photography by Matt Bramford.

Many thanks to everyone who helped out on the night, especially my star contributors Matt and Sally and of course the wonderful Courtney and her team from Forward PR: Laura, Francesca and Nicholas. And huge thanks to Ross and Michelle of 123 Bethnal Green Road for hosting such a memorable party, the illustrators who helped out, Liz Johnson-Artur and Max Petrossi for taking photos, Beautiful Soul, Nina Dolcetti and Joanna Cave for their wonderful designs and 6 Day Riot, The Pipettes and Will for entertaining my guests. More massive thanks to my partners – 123, Tatty Devine, Moleskine, Dr.Hauschka, Lily Vanilli, Pukka Teas, Adnams and Vodka O – for ensuring a truly memorable event.

ACOFI launch Jan 11-Lily Vanilli cake
Decimating the cake.

And of course I can’t leave out a big thanks (I’m running out of large adjectives here) to all my guests, especially all of those who bought the book and have written such a wealth of amazing blog posts about the event. I am so sorry I didn’t get to meet everyone, but thankyou thankyou thankyou for supporting my ACOFI adventure xxx

ACOFI launch Jan 11-clear up
Cleaning up the next day: teacups and limes. Just about sums it up!

If you didn’t get a chance to do so at the launch do remember to get along and check out the Eco Pop Up shop instore at 123 for two weeks from the 28th January. It features many of the fabulous ethical designers from my book. Look out for lots of blogs featuring illustrations from the event… coming up shortly. And you can buy the book online on my website with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Don’t forget to also check out the Skype video interviews with featured illustrators in the book over on my Amelia’s House youtube channel.

Categories ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,6 Day Riot, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Ani Saunders, ,Antonia Parker, ,Beautiful Soul, ,Bunker Cafe, ,Courtney Blackman, ,Dr.Hauschka, ,Eco fashion, ,Emma Block, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Ethical Heaven, ,gabby young, ,Gwenno Saunders, ,i-D, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Joanna Cave, ,Laurel Harple, ,Liz Johnson-Artur, ,Matt Bramford, ,Max Petrossi, ,Moleskine, ,Mystery Jets, ,Nina Dolcetti, ,Nyla, ,Prick your Finger, ,Prince Cassius, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Robots in Disguise, ,Scout Hut, ,Shine on the Green, ,The Pipettes, ,vogue

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Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration launch party illustrations: meet Andrea Peterson

ACOFI Lily Vanilli cake by Andrea Peterson
ACOFI Lily Vanilli cake by Andrea Peterson.

Over the past few days a steady trickle of fabulous illustrations from the ACOFI launch night party (read my review here) have been flooding into my inbox… and I’ve been wondering how best to put them all together. In the absence of a better plan I have decided to plow through them alphabetically… So without further ado I present to you the wonderful artwork of Andrea Peterson, pharmacy prescription also known as Artist Andrea, seek also responsible for the cover art of ACOFI. She travelled all the way from Arizona to be with us on the launch day and I think that everyone was absolutely awed by her ability to create beautiful images from just a few dabs of watercolour, live, in front of a huge crowd.

You’ve already seen this image of Jessica Bumpus from Vogue but why not show it again? I think it’s absolutely beautiful… and I love the way that Andrea has made her a Vogue cover star. Bring back illustrated covers indeed! So elegant and glamourous. You can read Jessica’s wonderful blog about the event on the Vogue Green Style Blog here. Thankyou so much Jessica!

Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Andrea Peterson
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Andrea Peterson.

The lovely Alexandra Haddow very kindly provided us with Pukka teas and helped out all afternoon: she is rather fittingly illustrated with tea cup in hand. She also managed to do a lovely write up of the event on LDNfashion online, and we hope she will be joining our little fashion team soon as well.

Alexandra Haddow of Pukka Teas by Andrea Peterson
Alexandra Haddow of Pukka Teas by Andrea Peterson.

Then there’s Lupe Castro: fashion stylist and freelance writer. I love her colourful vintage Pucci outfit.

Lupe Castro by Andrea Peterson
Lupe Castro by Andrea Peterson.

Francesca from Forward PR looks so demurely wonderful holding her copy of ACOFI, which she did so well in selling on the night. I loved her energy, so positive. What a lovely girl.

Francesca of Forward PR by Andrea Peterson.
Francesca of Forward PR by Andrea Peterson.

Here’s Nyla of Ethical Heaven – she writes a blog about sustainable style and beauty, and you can read her fab write up of the launch party here.

Nyla of Ethical Heaven by Andrea Peterson
Nyla of Ethical Heaven by Andrea Peterson.

And lastly here again is a reprise of The Pipettes: who unsurprisingly inspired more than a few illustrators to get their pens and paint brushes out. Ani Saunders is herself a very talented illustrator, and she has her own blog called The Lovely Wars, where she has written about the book, complete with her own unique rendition of Andrea’s cover. Take a gander here.

The Pipettes by Andrea Peterson
The Pipettes by Andrea Peterson.

Thankyou Andrea so much for coming to visit us in the UK and showcasing your incredible talent live! I look forward to working with you for many moons to come. You can follow Andrea on twitter on @ArtistAndrea and don’t forget you can buy Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration here, with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Lastly, here’s my interview with Andrea on youtube, accompanied by rescue chihuahua Frida (I had to heavily edit out all the bits where I was cooing over the chihuahua). Enjoy!

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Categories ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,ACOFI, ,Alexandra Haddow, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Ani Saunders, ,Artist Andrea, ,Bunker Cafe, ,Chihuahua, ,Ethical Heaven, ,Forward PR, ,Francesca, ,Frida, ,Green Style Blog, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Lily Vanilli, ,Lupe Castro, ,Nyla, ,Pucci, ,Pukka Teas, ,The Lovely Wars, ,The Pipettes, ,vogue

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Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration launch party illustrations: meet Naomi Law

naomi-law-jessica-bumpus-2
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue gets the Naomi Law treatment. Here’s her blog in case you missed it previously.

Naomi Law has taken a rather circuitous route towards the land of fashion illustration. She left her graphics degree somewhat disillusioned, view came to London and quickly landed a job in e-commerce – it was only when our erstwhile fashion editor Matt Bramford prompted her to start drawing again that her love of fashion illustration was reawakened. Since then she’s been scribbling away furiously on her wacom tablet – churning out the most amazing illustrations from a beautiful fusion of watery digital layers.

naomi-law-fiona-o-grady-save-our-shoes
Fiona O’Grady of Save Our Shoes wrote a lovely blog about how much ACOFI had inspired her.

naomi-law-photographer-liz
Our official afternoon photographer Liz Johnson-Artur strikes a typical pose in her fabulous leggings – CHECK DEM! Much admired, but Liz was keeping their provenance firmly under wraps goddamit.

naomi-law-michelle-urvall-nyren
Returning the favour she drew fellow illustrator Michelle Urvall Nyren, eyes downward as if fixed on her sketchpad.

naomi-law-tamara-schlesinger
Tamara of 6 Day Riot captured her imagination in this image.

naomi-law-fashion-editors
She also created this wonderful image from a photograph of my three former and current fashion editors – Jonno Ovans now works with the Ethical Fashion Forum, Matt is obviously still here, and Sally Mumby-Croft has never really left. As well as being a super talented film-maker she also regularly contributes to both the art and fashion sections. Matt and Sally were of course completely indispensable on the day of the ACOFI launch.

Naomi Law Liz
Naomi Law at work. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

You can follow Naomi Law on twitter on @nimlawdraws and don’t forget you can buy Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration here, with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Here’s the gorgeous Naomi talking about how she creates her artwork in my youtube interview:

YouTube Preview Image

Categories ,6 Day Riot, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Ethical Fashion Forum, ,Fiona O’Grady, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Jonno Ovans, ,Liz Johnson-Artur, ,Matt Bramford, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,Naomi Law, ,Nim Law Draws, ,Sally Mumby-Croft, ,Save Our Shoes, ,Tamara Schlesinger, ,vogue

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