Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Tosun: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass
Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass.

There was one designer who made a unanimously good impression on the massed guests of Fashion Scout, and the one who had us all talking was Zeynep Tosun. She’s shown in London before but this was the first catwalk show that I’ve attended and I was very impressed.

zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep-Tosun-by-Alexandra-Haddow
Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013 by Alexandra Haddow.

Zeynep Tosun is a graduate of the Istituto di Marangoni in Milan, she has worked at Alberta Ferretti and I was not surprised to discover that she has a flagship store in Istanbul from where she sells her couture pieces: this was an ultra professional show featuring a huge and immaculately conceived collection, styled to perfection. Of particular note were the fabrics and construction: fine tooled leather thigh high cowboy boots, swirling embroideries reminiscent of 70s furnishings, brocade, complex digital prints on velvet and jewelled embellishments galore. There be money behind this ‘ere label.

zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Models wore deep red lips and slicked back centre parted hair, a few loose tendrils curling in front of the ears. This season’s high neckline came as a chin skimming ruff of Tudor proportions, lending the collection an air of primness. Silhouettes from different eras somehow sat well together: boxy jackets and flared pencil skirts from the 80s met brown and gold wide legged trouser suits from the 70s. All this came in a charming colour palette of cream, red, gold and black that was reminiscent of Renaissance paintings.

zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
zeynep tosun AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

With funds to back this impressive talent we should be seeing plenty more of Turkish lass Zeynep Tosun in the seasons to come.

Categories ,70s, ,A/W 2013, ,Alberta Ferretti, ,Alexandra Haddow, ,Chloe Douglass, ,Fashion Scout, ,Istanbul, ,Istituto di Marangoni, ,London Fashion Week, ,Milan, ,Turkish, ,Zeynep Tosun

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Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration launch party illustrations: meet Andrea Peterson

ACOFI Lily Vanilli cake by Andrea Peterson
ACOFI Lily Vanilli cake by Andrea Peterson.

Over the past few days a steady trickle of fabulous illustrations from the ACOFI launch night party (read my review here) have been flooding into my inbox… and I’ve been wondering how best to put them all together. In the absence of a better plan I have decided to plow through them alphabetically… So without further ado I present to you the wonderful artwork of Andrea Peterson, pharmacy prescription also known as Artist Andrea, seek also responsible for the cover art of ACOFI. She travelled all the way from Arizona to be with us on the launch day and I think that everyone was absolutely awed by her ability to create beautiful images from just a few dabs of watercolour, live, in front of a huge crowd.

You’ve already seen this image of Jessica Bumpus from Vogue but why not show it again? I think it’s absolutely beautiful… and I love the way that Andrea has made her a Vogue cover star. Bring back illustrated covers indeed! So elegant and glamourous. You can read Jessica’s wonderful blog about the event on the Vogue Green Style Blog here. Thankyou so much Jessica!

Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Andrea Peterson
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue by Andrea Peterson.

The lovely Alexandra Haddow very kindly provided us with Pukka teas and helped out all afternoon: she is rather fittingly illustrated with tea cup in hand. She also managed to do a lovely write up of the event on LDNfashion online, and we hope she will be joining our little fashion team soon as well.

Alexandra Haddow of Pukka Teas by Andrea Peterson
Alexandra Haddow of Pukka Teas by Andrea Peterson.

Then there’s Lupe Castro: fashion stylist and freelance writer. I love her colourful vintage Pucci outfit.

Lupe Castro by Andrea Peterson
Lupe Castro by Andrea Peterson.

Francesca from Forward PR looks so demurely wonderful holding her copy of ACOFI, which she did so well in selling on the night. I loved her energy, so positive. What a lovely girl.

Francesca of Forward PR by Andrea Peterson.
Francesca of Forward PR by Andrea Peterson.

Here’s Nyla of Ethical Heaven – she writes a blog about sustainable style and beauty, and you can read her fab write up of the launch party here.

Nyla of Ethical Heaven by Andrea Peterson
Nyla of Ethical Heaven by Andrea Peterson.

And lastly here again is a reprise of The Pipettes: who unsurprisingly inspired more than a few illustrators to get their pens and paint brushes out. Ani Saunders is herself a very talented illustrator, and she has her own blog called The Lovely Wars, where she has written about the book, complete with her own unique rendition of Andrea’s cover. Take a gander here.

The Pipettes by Andrea Peterson
The Pipettes by Andrea Peterson.

Thankyou Andrea so much for coming to visit us in the UK and showcasing your incredible talent live! I look forward to working with you for many moons to come. You can follow Andrea on twitter on @ArtistAndrea and don’t forget you can buy Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration here, with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Lastly, here’s my interview with Andrea on youtube, accompanied by rescue chihuahua Frida (I had to heavily edit out all the bits where I was cooing over the chihuahua). Enjoy!

YouTube Preview Image

Categories ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,ACOFI, ,Alexandra Haddow, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Ani Saunders, ,Artist Andrea, ,Bunker Cafe, ,Chihuahua, ,Ethical Heaven, ,Forward PR, ,Francesca, ,Frida, ,Green Style Blog, ,Jessica Bumpus, ,Lily Vanilli, ,Lupe Castro, ,Nyla, ,Pucci, ,Pukka Teas, ,The Lovely Wars, ,The Pipettes, ,vogue

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Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration launch party illustrations: meet Zarina Liew

Naomi Law Liz
naomi-law-jessica-bumpus-2
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue gets the Naomi Law treatment. Here’s her blog in case you missed it previously.

Naomi Law has taken a rather circuitous route towards the land of fashion illustration. She left her graphics degree somewhat disillusioned, more about came to London and quickly landed a job in e-commerce – it was only when our erstwhile fashion editor Matt Bramford prompted her to start drawing again that her love of fashion illustration was reawakened. Since then she’s been scribbling away furiously on her wacom tablet – churning out the most amazing illustrations from a beautiful fusion of watery digital layers.

naomi-law-michelle-urvall-nyren
Returning the favour she drew fellow illustrator Michelle Urvall Nyren, eyes downward as if fixed on her sketchpad.

naomi-law-tamara-schlesinger
Tamara of 6 Day Riot captured her imagination in this image.

naomi-law-fiona-o-grady-save-our-shoes
Fiona O’Grady of Save Our Shoes wrote a lovely blog about how much ACOFI had inspired her.

naomi-law-photographer-liz
Our official afternoon photographer Liz Johnson-Artur strikes a typical pose in her fabulous leggings – CHECK DEM! Much admired, but Liz was keeping their provenance firmly under wraps goddamit.

naomi-law-fashion-editors
She also created this wonderful image from a photograph of my three former and current fashion editors – Jonno Ovans now works with the Ethical Fashion Forum, Matt is obviously still here, and Sally Mumby-Croft has never really left. As well as being a super talented film-maker she also regularly contributes to both the art and fashion sections. Matt and Sally were of course completely indispensable on the day of the ACOFI launch.

You can follow Naomi Law on twitter on @nimlawdraws and don’t forget you can buy Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration here, with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Here’s the gorgeous Naomi talking about how she creates her artwork in my youtube interview:

YouTube Preview Image


Ghosts in love by Sarah Alfarhan

Before I get all grinch-y about it, dosage I should say I actually quite like the idea of Valentine’s Day. At its best it’s a reminder to take a moment to appreciate the person you care about, here but in reality it’s just fraught with peril. If you’re single it’s impossible, pill as even if you’re happy with your situation it somehow manages to bring out the side of you that protesteth too much. And if you’re coupled up… ah, the pressure. The Boy is refusing to even acknowledge it. Maybe I should be offended by this, but I’m just happy I don’t have to deal with it.

But then I was invited to attend a Valentine’s workshop at The Create Place in Bethnal Green, and I started wondering if it was possible to re-programme this attitude. Because now that I think about it I don’t think I’ve ever really celebrated Valentine’s. I tried once, as you sort of have to the first time you have a boyfriend for V-day, but it didn’t go so well; my parents chose the 13th of February to tell me they were getting divorced. I may have lost it a little among all the hearts and pink in Thorntons Chocolate that year (I still feel bad about that). My poor boyfriend cooked me dinner and gave me a plant that grew to be taller than I am, but I never celebrated Valentine’s Day again.


Be Mine by Mina Bach

Back in the present day I’m at The Create Place, formerly known as Back to Basics. Inside is Sarah Butler of Violet Iris, who is here to teach a little group how to make Valentine’s cards. I’m provided with tea and a stack of red card to start with, before I’m nudged towards a table chuck full of ribbon, markers, glitter, buttons, stamps, threads, paints, stickers, patterned scissors and I don’t know what. I look around and wonder if the other people there can tell I’m a V-day sceptic, as they all seem so excited about it. One of the girls is telling us how she just loves hearts, and how she once made loads of cards and left them around town for people to find. The bar is set high, in other words. I peer tentatively into the basket of fabric, and find a reassuringly earth-toned floral in between the pinks. You have to start somewhere, don‘t you.


Instructing Cupid by Cat Palairet

Then the strangest thing happens – I start to get into it. As we glue and cut away, Create Place representative Jill tells us how the proceeds from the crafting workshops go to providing free classes for people from the local community. The non-profit venue is run by volunteers, and as much as possible of the materials are sourced second hand. Because it doesn’t take much – using a bit of glue, a fabric scrap and a heart-shaped (yes, I went there) button, I find that I’ve made my very own Valentine’s card. I also make two badges, personalised by basing them on my favourite deer and clover necklaces.


The Create Place workshop: My card and badges


Funny Valentine by Joana Faria

A few days later The Create Place put on its one-day-only Valentine’s pop-up shop, demonstrating yet again that homemade is best when it comes to gifts for V-day. Embroidered badges by Zeena Shah, vegan cakes by Sweet Thursdays, Just B’s handmade jewellery from recycled paper, and jokey Valentine’s cards and badges from Violet Iris. And then there’s ‘The Last Rolo’, a trinket neatly presented in a box by Lu Burnell, enough to melt even the staunchest sceptic.


The Create Place pop-up shop. From left: Mima handmade natural lipbalm, Zeena Shah embroidered badges, Sweet Thursdays vegan cakes, Just B recycled jewellery.


The Reluctant Valentiner by Avril Kelly

I’m starting to realise the trick is putting your own stamp on Valentine’s Day, and this may well mean taking things in a completely different direction than that directed by Thorntons Chocolate. The Residence gallery in Victoria Park Village is currently running its ‘Shame’ exhibition of collectable art lingerie; ‘Between the origin of sin and sexuality there rests a place for love,’ is the show’s tag line. Gallery director Ingrid Z shows me around: there are embroidered pants by James Daw (’Let he who is without sin cast the first Sharon Stone’), ‘surrealist stockings’ by Laura May Lewis, and zinged shirts by Ingrid herself, themed after the seven deadly sins. While most of the lingerie can be worn, Ingrid explains you may not want to do so as not all of it would take kindly to water. Like the pieces by Mark Scott-Wood – those stains you see on the shirt in the picture are made from … the stuff that makes those sorts of stains.


Shame exhibition at The Residence gallery. From left: Mark Scott-Wood, Alexander Heaton, Danielle Drainey


Heart signet ring by Digby & Iona

Following on from that, the anatomical heart signet ring from jewellery makers Digby & Iona seems quite lovely in comparison. I think it’s pretty neat actually. But in spite of all my Valentine’s attitude re-programming, I’m not on the look-out for any heart-themed gifts this year either. As we were having breakfast the other morning, the Boy and I agreed to stick to our guns and skip Valentine’s Day this year too. Maybe this sounds like a let-down, but the thing is – the fry-up I was scoffing as this was decided was one he’d whipped up for us while I was still snoozing. So I’m really not complaining.


Heart-shaped eggs by Antonia Parker

The Create Place is at 29 Old Ford Road, London E2 9PJ – see the website for details of upcoming events and workshops. ‘Shame’ runs at The Residence gallery until 27th February; 229 Victoria Park Road, London E9 7HD.
naomi-law-jessica-bumpus-2
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue gets the Naomi Law treatment. Here’s her blog in case you missed it previously.

Naomi Law has taken a rather circuitous route towards the land of fashion illustration. She left her graphics degree somewhat disillusioned, purchase came to London and quickly landed a job in e-commerce – it was only when our erstwhile fashion editor Matt Bramford prompted her to start drawing again that her love of fashion illustration was reawakened. Since then she’s been scribbling away furiously on her wacom tablet – churning out the most amazing illustrations from a beautiful fusion of watery digital layers.

naomi-law-michelle-urvall-nyren
Returning the favour she drew fellow illustrator Michelle Urvall Nyren, eyes downward as if fixed on her sketchpad.

naomi-law-tamara-schlesinger
Tamara of 6 Day Riot captured her imagination in this image.

naomi-law-fiona-o-grady-save-our-shoes
Fiona O’Grady of Save Our Shoes wrote a lovely blog about how much ACOFI had inspired her.

naomi-law-photographer-liz
Our official afternoon photographer Liz Johnson-Artur strikes a typical pose in her fabulous leggings – CHECK DEM! Much admired, but Liz was keeping their provenance firmly under wraps goddamit.

naomi-law-fashion-editors
She also created this wonderful image from a photograph of my three former and current fashion editors – Jonno Ovans now works with the Ethical Fashion Forum, Matt is obviously still here, and Sally Mumby-Croft has never really left. As well as being a super talented film-maker she also regularly contributes to both the art and fashion sections. Matt and Sally were of course completely indispensable on the day of the ACOFI launch.

Naomi Law Liz
Naomi Law at work. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

You can follow Naomi Law on twitter on @nimlawdraws and don’t forget you can buy Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration here, with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Here’s the gorgeous Naomi talking about how she creates her artwork in my youtube interview:

YouTube Preview Image

naomi-law-jessica-bumpus-2
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue gets the Naomi Law treatment. Here’s her blog in case you missed it previously.

Naomi Law has taken a rather circuitous route towards the land of fashion illustration. She left her graphics degree somewhat disillusioned, sale came to London and quickly landed a job in e-commerce – it was only when our erstwhile fashion editor Matt Bramford prompted her to start drawing again that her love of fashion illustration was reawakened. Since then she’s been scribbling away furiously on her wacom tablet – churning out the most amazing illustrations from a beautiful fusion of watery digital layers.

naomi-law-fiona-o-grady-save-our-shoes
Fiona O’Grady of Save Our Shoes wrote a lovely blog about how much ACOFI had inspired her.

naomi-law-photographer-liz
Our official afternoon photographer Liz Johnson-Artur strikes a typical pose in her fabulous leggings – CHECK DEM! Much admired, abortion but Liz was keeping their provenance firmly under wraps goddamit.

naomi-law-michelle-urvall-nyren
Returning the favour she drew fellow illustrator Michelle Urvall Nyren, eyes downward as if fixed on her sketchpad.

naomi-law-tamara-schlesinger
Tamara of 6 Day Riot captured her imagination in this image.

naomi-law-fashion-editors
She also created this wonderful image from a photograph of my three former and current fashion editors – Jonno Ovans now works with the Ethical Fashion Forum, Matt is obviously still here, and Sally Mumby-Croft has never really left. As well as being a super talented film-maker she also regularly contributes to both the art and fashion sections. Matt and Sally were of course completely indispensable on the day of the ACOFI launch.

Naomi Law Liz
Naomi Law at work. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

You can follow Naomi Law on twitter on @nimlawdraws and don’t forget you can buy Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration here, with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Here’s the gorgeous Naomi talking about how she creates her artwork in my youtube interview:

YouTube Preview Image

naomi-law-jessica-bumpus-2
Jessica Bumpus of Vogue gets the Naomi Law treatment. Here’s her blog in case you missed it previously.

Naomi Law has taken a rather circuitous route towards the land of fashion illustration. She left her graphics degree somewhat disillusioned, there came to London and quickly landed a job in e-commerce – it was only when our erstwhile fashion editor Matt Bramford prompted her to start drawing again that her love of fashion illustration was reawakened. Since then she’s been scribbling away furiously on her wacom tablet – churning out the most amazing illustrations from a beautiful fusion of watery digital layers.

naomi-law-fiona-o-grady-save-our-shoes
Fiona O’Grady of Save Our Shoes wrote a lovely blog about how much ACOFI had inspired her.

naomi-law-photographer-liz
Our official afternoon photographer Liz Johnson-Artur strikes a typical pose in her fabulous leggings – CHECK DEM! Much admired, drugs but Liz was keeping their provenance firmly under wraps goddamit.

naomi-law-michelle-urvall-nyren
Returning the favour she drew fellow illustrator Michelle Urvall Nyren, more about eyes downward as if fixed on her sketchpad.

naomi-law-tamara-schlesinger
Tamara of 6 Day Riot captured her imagination in this image.

naomi-law-fashion-editors
She also created this wonderful image from a photograph of my three former and current fashion editors – Jonno Ovans now works with the Ethical Fashion Forum, Matt is obviously still here, and Sally Mumby-Croft has never really left. As well as being a super talented film-maker she also regularly contributes to both the art and fashion sections. Matt and Sally were of course completely indispensable on the day of the ACOFI launch.

Naomi Law Liz
Naomi Law at work. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

You can follow Naomi Law on twitter on @nimlawdraws and don’t forget you can buy Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration here, with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Here’s the gorgeous Naomi talking about how she creates her artwork in my youtube interview:

YouTube Preview Image


Ghosts in love by Sarah Alfarhan

Before I get all grinch-y about it, website like this I should say I actually quite like the idea of Valentine’s Day. At its best it’s a reminder to take a moment to appreciate the person you care about, stuff but in reality it’s just fraught with peril. If you’re single it’s impossible, as even if you’re happy with your situation it somehow manages to bring out the side of you that protesteth too much. And if you’re coupled up… ah, the pressure. The Boy is refusing to even acknowledge it. Maybe I should be offended by this, but in truth I’m happy I don’t have to deal with it.

But then I was invited to attend a Valentine’s workshop at The Create Place in Bethnal Green, and I started wondering if it was possible to re-programme this attitude. Because now that I think about it I don’t think I’ve ever really celebrated Valentine’s. I tried once, as you sort of have to the first time you have a boyfriend for V-day, but it didn’t go so well; my parents chose the 13th of February to tell me they were getting divorced. I may have lost it a little among all the hearts and pink in Thorntons Chocolate that year (I still feel bad for my fellow shoppers). My poor boyfriend cooked me dinner and gave me a plant that grew to be taller than I am, but I never celebrated Valentine’s Day again.


Be Mine by Mina Bach

Back in the present day I’m finding myself at The Create Place, formerly known as Back to Basics. Inside is Sarah Butler of Violet Iris, who is here to teach a little group how to make Valentine’s cards. I’m provided with tea and a stack of red card to start with, before I’m nudged towards a table chuck full of ribbon, markers, glitter, buttons, stamps, threads, paints, stickers, patterned scissors and I don’t know what. I look around and wonder if the other people there can tell I’m a V-day sceptic, as they all seem so excited about it. One of the girls is telling us how she just loves hearts, and how she once made loads of cards and left them around town for people to find. The bar is set high, in other words. I peer tentatively into the basket of fabric, and find a reassuringly earth-toned floral in between the pinks. You have to start somewhere, don‘t you.


Instructing Cupid by Cat Palairet

Then the strangest thing happens – I start to get into it. As we glue and cut away, Create Place representative Jill tells us how the proceeds from the crafting workshops go to providing free classes for people from the local community. The non-profit venue is run by volunteers, and as much as possible of the materials are sourced second hand. Because it doesn’t take much – using a bit of glue, a fabric scrap and a heart-shaped (yes, I went there) button, I find that I’ve made my very own Valentine’s card. I also make two badges, personalised by basing them on my favourite deer and clover necklaces.


The Create Place workshop: My card and badges


Funny Valentine by Joana Faria

A few days later The Create Place put on its one-day-only Valentine’s pop-up shop, demonstrating yet again that homemade is best when it comes to gifts for V-day. Embroidered badges by Zeena Shah, vegan cakes by Sweet Thursdays, Just B’s handmade jewellery from recycled paper, and jokey Valentine’s cards and badges from Violet Iris. And then there’s ‘The Last Rolo’, a trinket neatly presented in a box by Lu Burnell, enough to melt even the staunchest sceptic.


The Create Place pop-up shop. From left: Mima handmade natural lipbalm, Zeena Shah embroidered badges, Sweet Thursdays vegan cakes, Just B recycled jewellery.


The Reluctant Valentiner by Avril Kelly

I’m starting to realise the trick is putting your own stamp on Valentine’s Day, and this may well mean taking things in a completely different direction than that directed by Thorntons Chocolate. The Residence gallery in Victoria Park Village is currently running its ‘Shame’ exhibition of collectable art lingerie; ‘Between the origin of sin and sexuality there rests a place for love,’ is the show’s tag line. Gallery director Ingrid Z shows me around: there are embroidered pants by James Daw (’Let he who is without sin cast the first Sharon Stone’), ‘surrealist stockings’ by Laura May Lewis, and zinged shirts by Ingrid herself, themed after the seven deadly sins. While most of the lingerie can be worn, Ingrid explains you may not want to do so as not all of it would take kindly to water. Like the pieces by Mark Scott-Wood – those stains you see on the shirt in the picture are made from … the stuff that makes those sorts of stains.


Shame exhibition at The Residence gallery. From left: Mark Scott-Wood, Alexander Heaton, Danielle Drainey


Heart signet ring by Digby & Iona

Following on from that, the anatomical heart signet ring from jewellery makers Digby & Iona seems quite lovely in comparison. I think it’s pretty neat actually. But in spite of all my Valentine’s attitude re-programming, I’m not on the look-out for any heart-themed gifts this year after all. As we were having breakfast the other morning, the Boy and I agreed to stick to our guns and skip Valentine’s Day. Maybe this sounds like a let-down, but the thing is – the fry-up I was scoffing was one he’d whipped up for us while I was still snoozing. So I’m really not complaining.


Heart-shaped eggs by Antonia Parker

The Create Place is at 29 Old Ford Road, London E2 9PJ – see the website for details of upcoming events and workshops. ‘Shame’ runs at The Residence gallery until 27th February; 229 Victoria Park Road, London E9 7HD.

Illustration by Matilde Sazio

“This song is about fucking up against the wall, viagra ” announced Joan Wasser as an introduction to “Hard white wall”, a track from her second album To Survive at her Barbican gig on Sunday. Never the shrinking violet, Joan stood centre-stage in an all-in-one fitted black leather number, slashed at the back, as the spotlights converged on her small frame. It was the seventh time I had seen Joan As Police Woman play in London.

The first time I saw Joan was on a balmy summer’s evening in 2006 at the now defunct Spitz in Spitalfields, which in my opinion, used to put on some of the best gigs in London. The venue was at capacity that night and the air inside was clammy to the point where every surface I touched, whether it was a table or wall, seemed to be coated with a film of sweat. Fresh from a tour supporting Guillemots, Joan took to the stage in a silver metallic floor length gown and wowed the audience with her electric solo set. No big stage productions, no fancy costume changes, not even a band; just Joan with her powerful, soulful vocals, Korg keyboard and guitar. I am certain that she gained some lifelong fans that night, of which I am one.


Illustration by Darren Fletcher

The truth is that my enthusiasm for Joan extends beyond just liking her records and appreciating her live performances. There’s something about her music – perhaps classified in the same category as Antony and the Johnsons, Rufus Wainwright, Cat Power and Regina Spektor – that deeply resonates with me. Her sound is raw, honest, pure and sung from the heart in a way which isn’t bland, overdone or contrived. The combination of her emotive vocals, attention to detail in the form of a subtle stroke of cymbal here and an echo of string instruments there, has had the power to reduce me to tears in the past (although I have been known to cry at most things!).

Over the years, Joan has seen me through the best and worst of times: she’s been the soundtrack to exciting train and coach journeys across South East Asia and South America as I have admired the ever-changing landscapes, accompanied me as I have trudged miserably into work on an overheated tube wedged up against some hairy obese man’s armpit, and comforted me through the pain of a relationship break-up where I often found myself lying kidney-bean shaped, feeling ridiculously self-pitiful. Yes, my one-sided relationship with Joan has roots man, she’s a sista.


Illustration by Darren Fletcher

A multi-instrumentalist who flits effortlessly between piano to guitar to violin, Joan has worked and performed with the likes of Antony and the Johnsons, Rufus Wainwright, Lou Reed, Nick Cave and Elton John to name but a few. Much is made of the fact that she was the girlfriend of the luminous late-Jeff Buckley when he died, whose “Everybody Here Wants You” track is rumoured to be inspired by her, but for Joan to be defined by this alone is grossly unfair. The recognition that she deserves should be based purely on her own talent of epic proportions.

In the same vein as Antony and Rufus, much of Joan’s charm lies in her musical arrangements and unique vocals which can be spine-tingling, served tender or gruff. Her new album, The Deep Field unfurls her lust for life and presents to us a more positive and upbeat individual compared to her earlier offerings, Real Life (2006) and To Survive (2008). In her own words, it is her “most open, joyous record” to date.

Although the record is a departure from her more typical sombre sound, its essence is consistent with her previous material where she continues to demonstrate mood, depth, authenticity and sophisticated musical arrangements; a rare gem amongst some of the generic, non-memorable cack out there today.


Illustration by Matilde Sazio

When I meet Joan for tea at the K-West Hotel in Shepherd’s Bush for our interview, she is friendly and sprightly, but appears visibly tired after having spent two days trekking across the UK to do promo work. I try to act cool and calm, but I am sweating like hell and on my way to the hotel, I slip over and land on my bottom to the amusement of two young teenage boys who break out into hysterics, which makes for a nice ice-breaker as I re-tell my story.

Wearing a brown leather jacket, a matching pair of trousers and a bright yellow t-shirt with “Strut ‘n’ Stuff” emblazoned across the front that she picked up from a thrift store, with her thick unkempt dark brown hair and flawless skin, Joan looks much younger than her years – much closer to 30 than 40.

As we sit on a comfy sofa in the so-called ‘library’ of the hotel, Joan is oblivious to the two men in suits sitting behind us having a business meeting, who shoot a few disapproving glances in our direction as her voice gets progressively louder during the course of the interview. Speaking animatedly with a cup of herbal tea (she is trying to cut back on the coffee) in one hand and some neatly cut slices of apple in the other, Joan talks to Amelia’s Magazine about life before Joan As Police Woman, the inspiration behind her new record, embracing life and who’s house she’d most like to be a fly on the wall at, all in the good company of some soft-porn inspired saxophone music, playing softly in the background…


Illustration by Darren Fletcher

You trained as a classical musician and spent some time performing as one. What was the catalyst for you to explore being an alternative musician?
I always listened to different kinds of music as I was growing up and throughout my classical training. Classical music and non-classical music is all music so for me it wasn’t all that big of a stretch making other music. I loved studying classical music, but I wasn’t really interested in making it my life’s work because I wanted to make new music. There were also plenty of people who were better equipped at bringing new insight to the Beethoven violin concerto and I was not one of them. I loved learning the discipline behind that, but pursuing a career in it didn’t interest me so when I moved to Boston to go to school I started playing in bands then because all my friends were in bands. The rest, I guess as they say, is history.

You’ve been in several bands since you started out as a musician, including playing violin with Rufus Wainwright and Antony and the Johnsons, yet it as only in 2004 that you decided to front your own band. Why was there this delay?
Well I played violin exclusively for some time so I was mostly contributing to other peoples’ bands, which I loved doing. I was playing an instrument that is like a voice in itself. You don’t write songs on the violin so I had no way of writing. I picked up a guitar in 1997 to see what it was like; I wanted to figure out if I could write songs and started writing. I put a band together called Black Beetle and wrote a few songs with them and I joined Antony’s band. At this stage, I was still playing with lots of people doing string arrangements, but I also wanted to try out my voice which sounded horrible to me at the time. In the beginning you’re not used to what it sounds like and it doesn’t feel natural.

But surely you must have had reassurance from your friends that your voice is anything but horrible…
Well no one heard it. I started playing but I didn’t tell many people. I did get a lot of support from my friends which helped a lot, even if you think they’re lying because they love you.

So it was all very much about stepping slowly out of your comfort zone?
Yes, very much so. Antony had me open with one of his songs solo sometimes. It was a very nerve-wracking experience, especially as I was around a lot of astounding vocal performers. It was really scary, but I’m that kind of person where I like to jump into the deep end. It’s the only way to do things. I was making a record with Black Beetle that never got released, which was part of the learning process and then that band broke up in 2002 but I kept going; playing on my own and then I got a drummer to play with me and then Rufus asked me to go on tour and open for him and it just all went from there.


Illustration by Aysim Genc

The first time I saw you perform was at The Spitz in 2006, and even back then you seemed to be a very natural performer. Has performing always been second nature to you?
At that point I felt a lot better. Opening for Rufus was a good experience – you can’t really be opening for a crowd of total music lovers without getting your act together. Also, the fact that I come to a city that isn’t mine and tonnes of people show up. It makes you feel great; it makes you think: “OK – well at least I’m doing something right”.

When did you start recording the new album and what were your inspirations for the record?
I started by making a covers record which was fun for me to do. I wanted to get out of my head, my own songwriting. I think that really helped me to direct my songwriting on this record. I’m in a great place these days so I feel really open and joyful and I really wanted to get this across in the record. I first recorded seven songs that I had been writing since my last record, some of which I had been playing live. I did that in March and completed those songs and surveyed the scene and decided what the record needed. I then spent a few months writing five more songs to fill out the record the way I saw it in June and then mixed the whole thing at the end of last summer. It was really fun because I had never recorded an album that way before. Before I would record what I had, decide what the record needed and then wrote the kind of song to fit the record. This time, the new approach was a great exercise for me. I recorded at the same studio with the same producer where I feel very comfortable; it makes me feel like I’m coming home. Then I just got all of my favourite musicians to contribute to the record. It was just an absolutely glorious experience.

How do you think your sound has evolved since Real Life and To Survive?
It’s interesting because when I listen to my songs, I always think: “Where did that come from?” It’s beyond me. But I feel like I’m in a different place now…much more relaxed with myself in general. This is one of the treasures of spending more time alive because you get more comfortable with yourself and your surroundings.


Illustration by Matilde Sazio

You reached a milestone age last summer (Joan turned 40) – were there any anxieties?
I was really excited about it because I felt like it was a demarcation point of where I really didn’t have to give a shit about anything anymore. I never had to before, but I could just actually free myself of all the youth stuff. I have experienced a lot of things and it’s all been worth it, even though it was very difficult at times. I feel really lucky that everyday feels a bit better than the last because I’m determined to live a full life.

How did you celebrate?
I had a big party on my roof at home just outside of New York. It was really nice because I was there for the first time on my birthday and I really embraced it.

What advice would you give a 20-year-old Joan and 30-year-old Joan?
I would just reassure the 20-year-old Joan that things are definitely going to get better – I did not think that then. At 30…I don’t know…the thing is I wouldn’t ever do anything differently. You have to learn everything the way you learn them, unfortunately sometimes.

What do you do to switch off?
I definitely have to exercise or I go crazy. I need that in my life so I do that a lot. I spend a certain amount of time with my friends being ridiculous and making jokes as terrible as possible. Oh and drinking way too much coffee.

Who’s house would you most like to be a fly on the wall at?
Prince, definitely! He’s the only person who I think: “What is he doing right now?” Because you know it’s something weird…or fascinating. He’s just incredible; amazing.

Joan’s new album The Deep Field is out now on PIAS records and she is playing across the UK until 13 February.

For a free-three track download from the new record, click here.

Joan As Police Woman – The Magic YouTube Preview Image
ZLiew_#2_Rose&Harriet TattyDevine
My wonderful girls, click Rosie and Harriet of Tatty Devine, who created the lovely Cutlass Necklace for my party.

Zarina Liew looked oh so casual during the afternoon launch party – every time I turned around there she was, chatting away, charming the guests in expert fashion as she sketched away in her little note book. After the event she churned out the most amazing bunch of stunning watercolour fashion plates in record time. Wowser. This lady has so much talent it’s painful… behold her beautiful illustrations. So delightful, every single one.

ZLiew_#5_Katie antoniou LondonPlinth
Presenting the lovely Katie Antoniou of London Plinth – sometime Amelia’s Mag contributor and general all round fabulous fashion gal. Here’s her review of the night.

ZLiew_#6_Holly HollySpringett
Holly Springett wrote an absolutely fabulous blog about the launch, with some of the very prettiest photos to accompany it – go check it out here.

ZLiew_#3_Josephine&Sarah SomersetHouse
Here’s Josephine and Sarah from Somerset House, who I hope very much will be in contact soon to talk about a possible collaboration…

§ZLiew_#1_Alice TattyDevine
Alice of Tatty Devine sports some very fabulous jewellery indeed – by Tatty Devine of course.

ZLiew_#7_Gabby&Stephen GabbyYoung
Singer Gabby Young with her boyfriend Stephen. What a lovely couple!

ZLiew_#4_Sarah ShopStyle FabSugarUK
Sarah Bush of ShopStyleUK and Laura LaRue of Fab Sugar.

ZLiew_#8_Laura&Courtney ForwardPR
Laura and Courtney of Forward PR. Lovely lovely women, who helped me in the run up to the event and on the night most immensely. Say hello if you see them around at LFW.

ZLiew_#10_Tara&Louisa CentMagazine
Tara and Louisa Lau of Cent Magazine – I did an interview with the lovely Louisa, so fingers crossed that will be available soon.

ZLiew_#9_Matilda Ecologist
Matilda of the Ecologist – likewise she will be running a review of the book – keep an eye out and let me know if you spot it before me.

ZLiew_#11_Katie BLOWOnline
Katie Rose wrote for BLOW online.

ZLiew_#12_Alex Pukka_LondonFashionWk
Lastly but very much not leastly we have Alexandra Haddow of Pukka teas.

Zarina Liew at work
Zarina Liew at work. Photography by Liz Johnson-Artur.

You can follow Zarina Liew on twitter on @cobaltcafe and don’t forget you can buy Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration here, with a special 10% if you use the discount code ACOFI LAUNCH up until the 28th February 2011. Find out just how Zarina made the leap from the corporate marketing world into the creative arms of illustration: amazing inspiring stuff in this Skype interview on youtube.

YouTube Preview Image

Categories ,Alexandra Haddow, ,BLOW online, ,Cent Magazine, ,Cobalt Cafe, ,Courtney Blackman, ,Ecologist, ,Fab Sugar, ,Forward PR, ,gabby young, ,Holly Springett, ,Katie Antoniou, ,Katie Rose, ,Laura LaRue, ,Liz Johnson-Artur, ,London Plinth, ,Louisa Lau, ,Pukka, ,Rosie and Harriet, ,Sarah Bush, ,ShopStyleUK, ,Somerset House, ,Tatty Devine, ,Zarina Liew

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