Amelia’s Magazine | Simon Ekrelius introduces Monochrome, his new A/W 2014 collection

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Last week Simon Ekrelius showcased a preview selection of garments from his pared down A/W 2014 collection, titled Monochrome. Inspired by iconic model Lee Miller, this season the Swedish designer has focused on a sleek and eminently wearable silhouette, which features innovative fabric treatments and his razor sharp signature tailoring.

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Megan Thomas

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Megan Thomas.

When did you first discover the muse for your latest collection, Lee Miller?
Many years ago when I read into Man Ray‘s life and realised that Lee was very involved with his work and the solarisation technique.

simon ekrelius 1

simon ekrelius 2

How did this translate into elements of the Monochrome collection?
Indirectly I wanted to translate the feeling I had for her relationship with photography, perhaps a longshot for some but my idea was to describe her in the time now if she would be alive. So I cut lines all over the body, which were then sprayed and painted. Many of the constructions retain a certain mood, as does the palette and the structure of the fabrics. She created something very subdued through photography; very beautiful and simple. She was stuck in my mind for a long period and now was the right time to bring it all up.

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Sangita Kumari

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by Sangita Kumari.

What are the key materials and processes used in these garments?
There is wool, cotton, silk, poly blends and nylon. The crème coloured cotton canvas and the black cotton satin has been painted and then sprayed with acrylic.

simon ekrelius 3

simon ekrelius 4

What are your favourite pieces in the collection?
The wool coat with pleats, the spray painted pieces, the black silk organza blouse and dress, the grey pieces, the black shiny and matt jersey dress and the jumpsuit with lighter vertical lines.

simon ekrelius 5

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Simon Ekrelius A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

Who do you hope will wear these garments and why?
Kate Moss, Tilda Swinton, Lily Cole, and Cate Blanchett: because I know they would carry my pieces perfectly.

You can read our previous interview with Simon Ekrelius here.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Cate Blanchett, ,Kate Moss, ,Lee Miller, ,Lily Cole, ,Man Ray, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Megan Thomas, ,monochrome, ,Sangita Kumari, ,Simon Ekrelius, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Tilda Swinton, ,xplusyequals

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Amelia’s Magazine | Sorapol at Old Vic Tunnels: A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Sorapol AW12 by Joanne Young

Sorapol AW12 by Joanne Young

I was excited to receive an invite for the A/W 2012 catwalk show of Sorapol because I had heard that the creative director of this young underground brand is the extravagant club kid Daniel Lismore. So I eagerly arrived at the graffitied, atmospheric venue of Old Vic Tunnels to meet photographer and burlesque performer Tigz Rice aka Tigzy aka Raven Six, who took some of the photos shown here. There was a palpable air of excitement in the long queue, which was chock full of beautiful beings. Some of them, like Boy George, were superstars, and others were well known and popular scenesters, fashionistas and nightlife luminaries, such as Jodie Harsh, Lady Lloyd or Philip Levine. The crowd began to complain when it descended into a disorderly mass to enter the show space via a too small archway, resulting in a serious amount of squeezing and ticket waving. At one point I really thought I had lost my chance to go in, which sadly happened to a large number of guests. A few really disappointed ones even started burning their Sorapol tickets in protest, I hear, but Sorapol could not have been more apologetic on their twitter feed and I am sure this will be something they will think through more carefully next time.

Sorapol AW12 by Tigz Rice Studios

Sorapol AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Sorapol AW12 by Fay Myers

Sorapol AW12 by Fay Myers

Thankfully, once inside, the vibe was completely friendly, happy and relaxed. The show, entitled Iron Grip, opened in utter darkness aside from the lights behind a curtained archway, from which smoke crept down the catwalk against sounds of sirens, gunfire and explosions. After a few minutes the first model appeared and started walking slowly towards us as Charlie D Soprano sang in a majestic and slightly sinister opera style. I could not really make out what or in which language she was singing, but, intriguingly, the day before the show she wrote on her twitter feed that she was ‘translating pop songs into Russian for tomorrow’s gig’.

Sorapol AW12 by Tigz Rice Studios

Sorapol AW12 by Nicola Ellen

Sorapol AW12 by Nicola Ellen

Indeed the outfits that Thai head designer and recent graduate from the London College of Fashion Sorapol Chawaphatnakul sent down the catwalk were so theatrical and adorned with such symbolic props, that one could not help wondering – I like to read the press release after a show – what was the specific reference point or message of this collection. What the press release revealed was that for his A/W 2012 collection Sorapol was inspired by a very specific storyline, which is rather helpful to know when looking at these creations. The story is that of Vasilia, an orphaned girl in pre-revolutionary Russia, who was adopted and raised by exiled Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov aka Lenin. The story then goes that Lenin took Vasilia and his communist ideas to the Russian cities intending to overthrow the aristocracy, but he found Vasilia a place in the Royal Household and there she fell in love with Prince Alexander. Suspicious of this, Lenin ordered the assassination of Prince Alexander. Love and aesthetic beauty won over her father’s ideology and Vasilia attempted to warn the prince but failed. So, enraged and heartbroken Vasilia joined the ranks of the white-clad soldiers fighting to restore Russia’s splendour.

Sorapol AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Sorapol AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Sorapol AW12 by Tessa McSorley

Sorapol AW12 by Tessa McSorley

Via this fairytale, therefore, the A/W 2012 Sorapol collection was created from Vasilia’s point of view with an emphasis on the grandeur of the pre-revolution Russian culture, showing lots of opulent furs, long gowns and embellishments of pearls and gold. [A little parenthesis here to say that I really hope the fact that Sorapol Chawaphatnakul is a Buddhist means all this fur on show was not real.] There were also a lot of elements which suggested war, death and the clash between luxury, or beauty, and fighting. For instance the second outfit was a long red gown with a line of bullets running down from the shoulders to the waist on both sides, complemented by a very impressive tall beehive hairdo in which a gold gas mask had been incorporated. Another favourite hairdo was again a tall beehive this time with a gold skull poking out of it. The theme of death was further emphasised by a model holding a black skull prop in her hand and battle was spelt out by dresses with structured armour sleeves and a silver, gloriously sparkly military suit.

Sorapol AW12 by Tigz Rice Studios

Sorapol AW12 by Joanne Young

Sorapol AW12 by Joanne Young

Sorapol AW12 by Joanne Young

The make up for the show was executed by Illamasqua. Unfortunately it is not properly evident in the photos, but it looked fantastic up close. A pale, whitish effect, with glittery touches here and there extended down to the models’ cleavages and brought to mind either corpses or the snowy Russian landscape or perhaps powdered aristocracy.

Sorapol AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Sorapol AW2012 by Janneke de Jong

Sorapol AW2012 by Janneke de Jong

The last couple of outfits were especially theatrical, featuring predominantly white and gold colours, and the crown worn by the last model suggested some kind of victory. This collection was far from commercial, and I can see how it would not be everybody’s cup of tea. As for myself, I was slightly disappointed that it was not more over the top, but then a lot of the time my ideal fashion design is something along the lines of Andrew Logan’s Alternative Miss World. In any case when the Sorapol spectacle ended the vibe was certainly one of victory, with Sorapol Chawaphatnakul running down the catwalk in really high spirits and the audience congratulating him with cheers and a standing ovation.

Sorapol AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Sorapol AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Sorapol AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Sorapol AW12 by Tigz Rice Studios

Sorapol AW12 by Tigz Rice Studios

Sorapol AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Sorapol AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Sorapol AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Sorapol AW12 by Tigz Rice Studios

All photography by Tigz Rice Studios and Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,Alternative Miss World, ,Andrew Logan, ,Blow PR, ,boy george, ,Buddist, ,Burlesque, ,Charlie D Soprano, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Fay Myers, ,graffiti, ,Illamasqua, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Joanne Young, ,Jodie Harsh, ,Lady Lloyd, ,Lenin, ,london, ,London College of Fashion, ,Luxury, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,military, ,Nicola Haigh, ,Philip Levine, ,Prince Alexander, ,Raven Six, ,Russian, ,Russian Revolution, ,Sorapol, ,Sorapol Chawaphatnakul, ,Story of Vasilia, ,Tessa McSorley, ,Thai, ,The Old Vic Tunnels, ,Tigzy, ,Tigzy Rice, ,Vasilia, ,Vladimir Illyich Ulyanov, ,war

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Amelia’s Magazine | The Secret Emporium at The Secret Garden Party Festival 2012

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The Secret Emporium by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

This year The Secret Garden Pary, which took place between the 19th and 22nd of July, had chosen for its 10th birthday celebrations the theme ‘Standing on Ceremony’. More than ever before this famously flamboyant festival encouraged all kinds of rituals, ceremonies, initiations and carnivals to be abundantly created, attended and enjoyed by the gardeners. As the charming Secret Garden Party guide from this year explained, the aim of the above, and of the Garden as a whole, was to ‘bind us together’ and ‘emphasise matter over mind’. I felt that both these aims were most certainly achieved not only by the colourful activities, but also the huge amounts of mud which challenged us, bonded us as if with gooey, brown glue and made sure that ‘matter’ took centre stage indeed…

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Bannersphoto by Maria Papadimitriou

I found myself part of this mud world because I was one of the designers taking part in the Secret Emporium. For a few years now The Secret Emporium has been sourcing independent, underground and out of the ordinary designers during the winter and taking them to festivals over the summer – as well as organising various other pop up events during the year, such as The Secret Emporium Christmas Market, featured previously in Amelia’s Magazine. The often theatrical pieces by The Secret Emporium designers are especially suited to a playful festival, like The Secret Garden Party, and it was most fun witnessing people all around being at their most willing to dress up and give in to a bit of embelishment. Below are just a few of my favorite looks and designs from The Secret Emporium festive marquee…

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party EABURNS photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A wonderful shoulder piece, headband and pendant from EABurns by the very talented Lizzie Burns.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Veronique wearing SJSSTYLE and Every Cloud has a Silver Lining photo by Maria Papadimitriou

I think a few jaws dropped when the beautiful Veronique – a Secret Emporium intern – modeled this onesie by SJSSTYLE and long statement necklace by Every Cloud Has a Silver Lining.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Key-Lime-Pie cape+bow photo by Maria Papadimitriou

A lovely festival look consisting of cape, bow hairpiece and bum-bag by Key Lime Pie.

Secret Emporium Tell Tails by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Tell Tails by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Hapuska photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Hapuska’s headpieces were perfect for a bit of drama – and notice the cute red bows make up by In Your Dreams mentioned below!

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Feathersmith photo by Maria Papadimitriou

More feathery, tribal headwear by Feathersmith.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Camille Walalaphoto by Maria Papadimitriou

The super lovely Camille Walala, whose colourful stall I had the pleasure of having immediately opposite me, dressed glamorously every day in her own designs.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party The Poundshopphoto by Maria Papadimitriou

I totally loved the forces behind The Poundshop, Sara and George, who were, like myself, recipients of one of the very generous Secret Emporium scholarships. From their greatly designed wooden kiosk on wheels they represented a host of designers via their super affordable and witty products.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Plastic Seconds photo by Maria Papadimitriou

This lady was very excited about just purchasing this headpiece made from found objects by Plastic Seconds – which is my jewellery line.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Hathor photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Elegant and sparkly one-off headpieces by Hathor.

Secret Emporium BangBangCrash by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Bang Bang Crash by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Of course The Secret Garden Party is very clear about its desire to bring out the animal side in a Gardener so Bang Bang Crash were there to provide various animal suits…

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party JobeeJo Creations photo by Maria Papadimitriou

And felted animal ear hats by JoBee Jo Creations were helping along.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party In Your Dreams photo by Maria Papadimitriou

In Your Dreams catered for all our ‘out there’ make up needs and were deservedly very popular.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Tell Tales 2 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Tell Tails photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Also very popular – both with kids and adults! – were the fabulous tails from Tell Tails.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Merrimaking

The Merrimaking stall, as always, was full of cleverly designed and fun promoting items.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party SJSSTYLE photo by Maria Papadimitriou

SJSSTYLE made sunglasses with all sorts of weird and wonderful additions to them!

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Lucy Peacock photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lucy Peacock, who is helping to run The Secret Emporium, also displayed her geometric jewellery.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Grace Du Prez photo by Maria Papadimitriou

I have long admired Grace du Prez’s jewellery design and at The Secret Emporium she was also my delightful neighbour.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Gilbert Grotto and Grace Du Prezphoto by Maria Papadimitriou

Here is one of Grace du Prez’s hair pendants worn on a Gilbert Grotto tee!

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Fuudhoods photo by Maria Papadimitriou

The cockerel in me loved these head turning hoods by Fuud Hoods.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Leftover photo by Maria Papadimitriou

More found objects headpiece action by Leftover.

Secret Emporium at Secret Garden Party Umbrellas decorations photo by Maria Papadimitriou

The Secret Emporium team had made these bright and colourful umbrellas to decorate the interior of their euqally bright and colourful marquee.

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou.

Categories ,BangBang Crash, ,Camille Walala, ,EABurns, ,Every Cloud Has A Silver Lining, ,Feathersmith, ,festival, ,Fuud Hoods, ,Gilbert Grotto, ,Grace Du Prez, ,Hapuska, ,Hathor, ,In Your Dreams, ,JoBee Jo Creations, ,Key Lime Pie, ,Leftover, ,Lucy Peacock Jewellery, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Merrimaking, ,Plastic Seconds, ,Secret Emporium, ,Secret Garden Party, ,SJSSTYLE, ,Tell Tails, ,The Poundshop, ,The Secret Emporium, ,The Secret Garden Party

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Amelia’s Magazine | Treasure: London Jewellery Week 2012 Show Review

Grace Hamilton at Treasure by Claire Kearns

Grace Hamilton at Treasure by Claire Kearns

Being a jewellery designer myself I was thrilled to have an invitation to the press view of Treasure at Somerset House during London Jewellery Week, which took place from the 11th to the 17th of June. I particularly enjoy Treasure, as opposed to The Jewellery Show for instance, as it showcases a wider variety of styles and more contemporary cutting edge jewellery. I really enjoyed going around the show talking to designers – all of whom somehow managed to look like models – and here is a selection of my favorite encounters of the night…

Treasure-show-Pip-Jolley-photo-by-Maria-Papadimitriou

Exciting jewellery was on show immediately upon entering. Pip Jolley was not one of the exhibitors, but a jewellery designer working at the welcoming desk and I loved her roller necklace – her own design.

Tatty Devine at Treasure by Naomi Wilkinson

Tatty Devine at Treasure by Naomi Wilkinson

Treasure show Flavie Michou photo by Maria Papadimitriou

In the Fashion Gallery the first thing that caught my eye were these Lady Skull Rings by Flavie Michou. Some of them have movable jaws!

Treasure show Jessica de Lotz photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Then it was Jessica De Lotz, whose work I knew of and admired. Jessica makes narrative based collections and works with vintage pieces. This fabulous ring called ‘Edith’s cheeky winking eye ring’ is from her ‘Edith Mary Baldwin Collection’ inspired by a framed baptismal certificate, dated 1909, found by Jessica at Portobello Market.

Rachel Galley at Treasure by Sally Cotterill

Rachel Galley at Treasure by Sally Cotterill

Treasure show Daniel Claudio Ramos Y Munoz photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Daniel Claudio Ramos Y Muñoz was showing these bangles in beautiful colours. Two of them can be worn together as they fit into each other and the clever bit is that they can serve as a carrier bag support in your hands when you do your shopping!

Treasure Treasure show Lehmann & Schmedding Marilyn Brooch photo by Maria Papadimitriou

In the Design Gallery I saw Lehmann & Schmedding’s ‘Marilyn Brooch’. Aramith spheres with little magnets in them energise each other and hold onto cloth.

Treasure show Yoko Izawa photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Yoko Izawa’s stand had these fabric covered flakes, which did not look like jewellery at first sight, but when she put them on, they became super cool rings. I also quite like that her jewellery has some philosophical meaning for her behind it: ‘Veiled jewellery reflects my assumption that although certainty is often required in modern society, ambiguous expression has been the most distinctive characteristic found in Japanese values and religious beliefs‘.

Jessica De Lotz at Treasure by EdieOP

Jessica De Lotz at Treasure by EdieOP

Treasure show Christiane Wichert 1 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Treasure show Christiane Wichert 2 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

I loved Christiane Wichert’s bold, sticky jewellery. The green brooch stuck on her skin like a suction cup and some of her other pieces also stuck on clothes.

Treasure show Jenny Llewellyn 2 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

This necklace is from Jenny Llewellyn’s ‘Plume’ collection of hollow silicone cups that glow in the dark. I liked not only its bold colour and shape, but also that the cups looked like they were made from a hard material but when I touched them they felt so soft I did not want to stop squeezing them.

Imogen Belfield at Treasure by Lucy Robertson

Imogen Belfield at Treasure by Lucy Robertson

Treasure show Rachel Galley Jewellery photo by Maria Papadimitriou

I was happy to see some larger body jewellery at Rachel Galley’s stand. This is a larger piece from her ‘Enkai Sun Collection’ inspired by Rachel’s travels in Tanzania.

Treasure show Tatty Devine photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Of course Tatty Devine are always a favorite! I love seeing their larger, more couture pieces. Coincidentally, I saw a lovely photo recently of Kate Nash wearing this necklace.

Treasure show Grace Hamilton photo by Maria Papadimitriou

The Emerge Gallery had tons of talent on display. Grace Hamilton’s beautiful statement accessories are handcrafted using traditional crochet and knotting techniques.

Treasure show Imogen Belfield photo by Maria Papadimitriou

It was great to at last meet the young, talented designer that is Imogen Belfield and her sales manager Emma Crosby, both good friends of Amelia’s Magazine. Imogen makes gorgeous textured jewellery influenced by nature, architecture and in some cases, as she told me, by shapes in packaging. Matt Bramford did a lovely interview with Imogen Belfield a little while ago in Amelia’s Magazine.

Treasure show Claire English photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Claire English was another designer drawing inspiration from everyday objects, such as matchsticks, and I loved her display which included corks!

Treasure show Gina Melosi photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Gina Melosi’s ‘Broken Promises’ collection featured pieces moulded from broken glass This necklace is moulded from a broken gin bottle.

Flavie Michou at Treasure by Polly Stopforth

Flavie Michou at Treasure by Polly Stopforth

Treasure show Jessica Flinn photo by Maria Papadimitriou

I liked Jessica Flinn’s hand printed and gold plated Floral Lace Collar Necklace and Rose Lace Curved Cuff.

Treasure show Diane Turner Jewellery photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Finally in the Emerge Gallery Diane Turner showed pieces created by growing metal on natural fissures in the wood.

Treasure show Emma Ware photo by Maria Papadimitriou

In the Essence Gallery, Treasure’s ethical jewellery gallery, I found Emma Ware, another Amelia’s Magazine favorite. Emma makes beautiful one off pieces by juxtaposing malleable dark rubber with polished metal and look at her refreshing display using plant pots!

Treasure show Linnie Mclarty photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Linnie Mclarty won me over again with her swirly, recycled silver rings.

Treasure show Renush photo by Maria Papadimitriou

One of the best pieces from Renush was this necklace made from assembled leather left overs.

Treasure show Mel White Jewellery photo by Maria Papadimitriou

And my last pick from the Essence Gallery was this pair of elegant cufflinks by Mel White Jewellery made with recycled silver and limited edition reclaimed British wood off-cuts.

Treasure show Sarah Elizabeth Jones photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Finally, in the Design Space room I was impressed by Sarah Elizabrth Jones’ collection which explores her experimentation with the material wood veneer, to create fascinating pieces of body adornment, such as this brooch.

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou.

Categories ,Christiane Wichert, ,Claire English, ,Claire Kearns, ,Daniel Claudio Ramos Y Munoz, ,Design Space, ,Diane Turner Jewellery, ,Edie OP, ,Emma Crosby, ,Emma J Crosby, ,Emma Ware, ,Essence gallery, ,Flavie Michou, ,Gina Melosi, ,Grace Hamilton, ,Imogen Belfield, ,Jenny Llewellyn, ,Jessica De Lotz, ,Jessica Flinn, ,jewellery, ,Kate Nash, ,Lehmann & Schmedding, ,Linnie McLarty, ,London Jewellery Week, ,Lucie Robertson, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Matt Bramford, ,Mel White Jewellery, ,Naomi Wilkinson, ,Pip Jolley, ,Polly Stopforth, ,Rachel Galley, ,Renush, ,Sally Cotterill, ,Sarah Elizabeth Jones, ,Somerset House, ,Tatty Devine, ,The Jewellery Show, ,Treasure, ,Ware, ,Yoko Izawa

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Amelia’s Magazine | Xiao Li, Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Xiao Li A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Xiao Li A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

We covered Xiao Li when she took part in the graduate showcase at Fashion Scout last season, and this year she returned to the catwalk with a stunning new collection as a winner of the much coveted Fashion Scout Merit Award. Chinese born Xiao Li is yet another example of the great education we provide in the arts, gaining an BA in womenswear from LCF and then an MA in knitwear from the RCA. She sent her clothing down the catwalk to one of my current favourite tunes: a cover of Daft Punk’s Get Lucky by Daughter. It was the perfect accompaniment to her collection, sweet as sugar but totally fresh and modern.

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Girls wore a simple pink wash in their hair, minimal make up and clumpy platform sandals to accompany billowy mesh, latex and silicon separates covered in geometric 3D decorative details. There were gigantic puffy sleeves, feature pockets, frou frou pencil skirts, wide legged trousers, a cape and even a pair of dungarees.

Xiao Li by Amy Dover

Xiao Li by Amy Dover.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston.

Xiao Li’s strength is in her deft combination of unexpected material, technique and shape to create an extraordinary and often breathtaking silhouette. The predominantly baby blue and cream palette was offset by the use of intense royal blue, with the last outfit spectacularly fading into dark so that the integral LED lights glowed in an otherworldly manner.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Amy Dover, ,Daft Punk, ,Daughter, ,Fashion Scout, ,Get Lucky, ,iceland, ,Katie Rose Johnston, ,LCF, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Merit Award, ,rca, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Xiao Li

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Amelia’s Magazine | Yifang Wan: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Yifang Wang A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Yifang Wan A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Yifang Wan showcased a sleek collection accessorised with dagger sharp neckwear as a Fashion Scout Merit Award winner this time last year, so it was great to catch up with her again. Against a backdrop of glitchy beats she sent models down the catwalk in a range of seductive wintery hues – lilac, glittery navy blue, deep plum and grey, paired with bare legs and the simplest of black heels.

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Wan’s talent lies in the creation of super desirable clothing which nevertheless bears a unique twist – this season boxy jackets, simple flip skirts and elegant tapered trousers in wool and mohair were variously cut with patch pockets, pleats, wide collars and dangling lengths of fabric.

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Asymmetric shapes, apron layers and a detachable collar feature gave yet another element of interest to this wonderful collection. Yifang Wan calls this ‘simplistic workwear’ and indeed it is – the perfect way to dress for modern working life at the desk and dashing between meetings. I think she will soon amass countless fawning fans, eager to adopt the Yifang Wan way of dressing for work.

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yifang Wang AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Fashion Scout, ,lfw, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Merit Award Winner, ,review, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Yifang Wan

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Showroom Review: EcoLuxe London

'Ecolooks' EcoLuxe London Exhibition LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

‘Ecolooks’ by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

I was hugely excited that during this London Fashion Week I had the opportunity not only to go and see but also exhibit at the EcoLuxe London exhibition that took place in a beautiful space on the ground floor of the Kingsway Hall Hotel almost next to the Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Freemasons’ Hall. Ecoluxe London takes place twice a year during London Fashion Week and is a non-profit platform that promotes fashion related ecoluxury brands and aims to raise awareness of ecological issues with the public. Its organisers, information pills Stamo and Elena Garcia, who are sustainable womenswear designers themselves, featured over 40 brands this year and EcoLuxe London is growing every year – here’s only a few examples that took my fancy!

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Lucy Harvey Ethical Stylist

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Ethical Stylist Lucy Harvey and Hetty Rose

Ethical stylist Lucy Harvey styling shoe designer Hetty Rose with a Plastic Seconds headpiece and necklace.

Upon entering the exhibition visitors were greeted by superbly talented stylist Lucy Harvey and her assistant Charlie Divall, who offered to upstyle them with various pieces from the exhibitors’ tables and then photograph them and tweet about it. I thought in this way Lucy offered a really fun, interactive introduction to the exhibition and a great way of promoting both the designers’ and the visitors’ work.

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Lupe Castro wearing Supported by Rain and Plastic Seconds

Stylist Lupe Castro styled by Lucy Harvey with a Supported by Rain coat and a Plastic Seconds headpiece, photo by Charlie Divall

Walking further into the exhibition the first thing to catch my eye was a series of gloriously colourful raincoats by Maria Ampatielou’s new brand Supported by Rain – seen above. Made of recycled umbrellas and end-of-roll waterproof fabrics, these raincoats are not only beautiful but also cleverly fold into their own pockets or hoods, whose insides have remained dry, so that you can put them back into your bag without any soaked diary dramas!

STAMO EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 by Celine Elliott

By Stamo S/S 2012 by Celine Elliott

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 STAMO belt

By Stamo, which featured in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, is another brand I enjoyed especially because of the theatricality in the designs and the extensive use of found and recycled materials whose original form is often retained – as seen in this bullet belt.

INALA LONDON EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 by Caire Kearns

INALA London S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

My neighbour exhibitor Alani Gibbon of INALA London showed some designs which were a natural hit with me becuase of their bright colours, but they further impressed me with their cleverness and versatility. For example a hooded short dress could be turned around and worn as an all-in-one playsuit! Not to mention the use of pulped eucalyptus fabric which felt amazing to touch.

OUTSIDER Ecoluxe London LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Outsider Fashion S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

I was thrilled to see the brand Outsider winning the JP Selects womenwear award at the end of the show as they stongly promote the notion that ‘ethical’ fashion should just look like very good fashion with their range of classic but very stylish designs.

HEMYCA EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 by Celine Elliott

Hemyca S/S 2012 by Celine Elliott

Hemyca is a multi award winning brand and I was most attracted by this beautifully tailored matching dress and coat.

LFW SS2012 Agnes Valentine Ecoluxe London by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Agnes Valentine S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Along with Hemyca above, whom I was not aware of, it was great to discover my dream swimsuit designer Agnes Valentine! The brand sources fine italian eco fabrics and their designs are minimal and classic but with bold colours and very feminine indeed.

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Hetty Rose shoes

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Hetty Rose shoes worn by Alice Wilby

It was an honour to meet another ACOFI designer Hetty Rose whose fun bespoke shoes are made using vintage Japanese kimono fabrics, Alice Wilby from Futurefrock modelled this pair and did not want to take them off!

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Golden Grass Company clutch

Next to Hetty Rose I found the friendly couple behind the Golden Grass Company who design jewellery and accessories for native artisans in Brazil to make out of a naturally golden, light and durable fibre, which is grown without chemicals or pesticides, under fair trade standards – LOVED this clutch!

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Monique Luttin headpiece

Sharing a table with me was Monique Luttin who makes intriguing headpieces using offcuts or vintage fabrics and found objects – I particularly liked this bird scull one which has a tribal, ritualistic element to it.

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Palstic Seconds printer packaging pendand

And finally a piece from the Plastic Seconds recycled jewellery collection I exhibited made out of the plastic, colourful bits one finds when unpacking a new printer…

As Hannah Bullivant pointed out in a previous post on EcoLuxe London, hopefully sustainable practices in fashion design will become mainstream and the brands that are still termed ‘ethical’ will no longer have to exhibit in separate showrooms and sections such as EcoLuxe or Estethica. Hopefully soon.

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou unless otherwise stated.

Categories ,Agnes Valentine, ,Alice Wilby, ,By Stamo, ,Celine Elliott, ,Charlie Divall, ,Claire Kearns, ,Classic, ,Coat, ,design, ,designer, ,Dress, ,ecodesign, ,Ecoluxe, ,Elena Garcia, ,estethica, ,Ethical brands, ,fashion, ,Feminine, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Futurefrock, ,Headpiece, ,Hemyca, ,Hetty Rose, ,Inala London, ,jewellery, ,Kingsway Hall Hotel, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucy Harvey, ,Lupe Castro, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,minimal, ,Monique Luttin Millinery, ,Outsider, ,Outsider Fashion, ,Plastic Seconds, ,Pulped Eucalyptus, ,Recycled Materials, ,shoes, ,Slow Fashion, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Supported by Rain, ,Swimwear, ,tailoring, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,vintage, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Lug Von Siga: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

Turkish designer Gül Ağış presented her brand Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 collection in the upper halls of Freemasons’ Hall at Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week. What we saw was an elegant and varied collection that featured evening dresses in luxurious fabrics such as silk crepe, leather and knitwear, as well as some more sportive outfits. The colour palette ranged from black and white to beige, caramel and coral red. Just by looking at Gül Ağış’ S/S 2014 collection one could easily discern influences from her rich cultural and historical heritage. Exposed bellies, see through fabric around hips and low fringed waists all brought to mind images of exotic belly dancers. Three dresses with laced, swirly patterns also reminded me of doilies used as decorations on tables and sofas of Anatolian houses.

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

But, as it often happens at fashion shows, reading the press release revealed an extra, unexpected layer of meaning and intention to the collection. This season Gül Ağış was inspired by populations around the world recently going back to tribal attitudes to express their anger towards the state of the world and the nature of their governments. More specifically she was inspired by the 2013 protests in Turkey started on 28 May 2013, initially to contest the urban development plan for Istanbul’s Taksim Gezi Park. Prints of tribal masks, which are often used in transitional situations and rituals, appeared writ large on tops and dresses. A mask protects, empowers the wearer spiritually and also gives anonymity, so that one can be aggressive and break the rules; thus here this powerful symbol was used beautifully to illustrate the insecurity towards the future felt by the Turkish people.

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Lug Von Siga Catwalk photo by Amelia Gregory SS 2014

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 7

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 6

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory-0023

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 5

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 9

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 10

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 11

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou HAIR

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 4

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory and Maria Papadimitriou.

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gül Ağış, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lug Von Siga, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masks, ,Novemto Komo, ,S/S 2014, ,Taksim Gezi Park Protests, ,Tribal, ,Tribal Masks, ,Turkish, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | Mark Fast: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Anna Higgie

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Anna Higgie

As I squeezed myself onto the end of a bench, it was impossible to ignore that the hundreds of people inside the space were very, very excited. Besides the increasing numbers of editors, bloggers, and Mark Fast fans, a scrum of photographers were going a bit mad trying to get a picture of front-row attendees. Ten minutes later, after security forced them to disperse, it became clear what the fuss was all about. None other than Mr Kanye West was in the centre of the front row, engaged in conversation but stopping to pose for photographs like he was born doing it. As he is due to show his second collection at Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday the 6th of March, I couldn’t help but wonder if this was like revision for his big fashion exam.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou

This collection was called Questions in a World of Blue, inspired by a scene from the David Lynch film, Fire Walk with Me, promising to deliver ‘a collection of sophisticated grunge’. I still had Mark Fast’s current S/S 2012 collection in my head; sexy, light and inspired by a sand storm. I loved this interpretation of Mark Fast’s signature feminine silhouettes, the review of which can be read here. Mark Fast doing modern-day grunge sounded interesting.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

I think this theme turned out to be exactly where this brand needed to go next. Although beautiful, most of Mark Fast’s previous collections have been extremely body-con, and mostly consisting of dresses. This collection saw the knitwear designer take the casual, layered, easy-going elements of grunge and re-invent them as luxury pieces. Striped crop-tops, wool coats and long knitted skirts in a range of textures added accessible separates to the collection. Anyone would feel comfortable throwing on a luxurious but slouchy cardigan, and feel just as at ease in the more dramatic full-length gowns.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou

Mark Fast makes knitwear so exciting; all you’d want to wear with his pieces are a pair of heels. This designer is in the habit of using Christian Louboutin shoes for catwalk shows, making the ‘effortless and strong’ Mark Fast woman look complete. Hair was erratically plaited, mimicking the intertwined knitwear. Greys, deep blues, and pink-nudes set against black made up a simple colour palette that wouldn’t look out of place on any self-respecting grunger.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Gaarte

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

I really like what Mark Fast has come with for next season; but what I love even more is seeing him develop as a designer. He’s definitely gotten to a place where he doesn’t have to prove himself through show-stopping pieces that only work on the catwalk and celebrities. I found this collection his most complete in terms of a range of pieces, which no doubt will worn by many a lady come winter. Mark Fast only needs to change one thing for his next collection; get a bigger venue. He’s outgrowing the BFC Showspace.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Anna Higgie, ,BFC Showspace, ,Christian Louboutin, ,Claire Kearns, ,David Lynch, ,Feminine, ,Fire Walk with Me, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Grey, ,grunge, ,Kanye West, ,knitwear, ,Layered, ,London Fashion Week A/W 2012, ,Make-up, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Paris Fashion Week, ,plaits, ,Questions in a World of Blue

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Amelia’s Magazine | Min Wu: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Presentation Review

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Min Wu is yet another of the super talented Chinese designers who are training in London and going on to showcase their collections at London Fashion Week. Min Wu gained an MA at London College of Fashion last year, and her Atmosphere and Automation presentation built on the clean lines and sculptural embellishments of her final MA collection. It also used the same eye catching ombre shading, this time on wool separates and mesh fabric crafted into both boxy and blouson shapes. The models wore their hair in intricate plaits, offset by huge swinging bead earrings.

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Briony Jose

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Briony Jose.

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Atmosphere and Automation, ,Briony Jose, ,Chinese, ,London College of Fashion, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Min Wu, ,Slowly the Eggs

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