Amelia’s Magazine | Mark Fast: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Anna Higgie

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Anna Higgie

As I squeezed myself onto the end of a bench, it was impossible to ignore that the hundreds of people inside the space were very, very excited. Besides the increasing numbers of editors, bloggers, and Mark Fast fans, a scrum of photographers were going a bit mad trying to get a picture of front-row attendees. Ten minutes later, after security forced them to disperse, it became clear what the fuss was all about. None other than Mr Kanye West was in the centre of the front row, engaged in conversation but stopping to pose for photographs like he was born doing it. As he is due to show his second collection at Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday the 6th of March, I couldn’t help but wonder if this was like revision for his big fashion exam.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou

This collection was called Questions in a World of Blue, inspired by a scene from the David Lynch film, Fire Walk with Me, promising to deliver ‘a collection of sophisticated grunge’. I still had Mark Fast’s current S/S 2012 collection in my head; sexy, light and inspired by a sand storm. I loved this interpretation of Mark Fast’s signature feminine silhouettes, the review of which can be read here. Mark Fast doing modern-day grunge sounded interesting.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

I think this theme turned out to be exactly where this brand needed to go next. Although beautiful, most of Mark Fast’s previous collections have been extremely body-con, and mostly consisting of dresses. This collection saw the knitwear designer take the casual, layered, easy-going elements of grunge and re-invent them as luxury pieces. Striped crop-tops, wool coats and long knitted skirts in a range of textures added accessible separates to the collection. Anyone would feel comfortable throwing on a luxurious but slouchy cardigan, and feel just as at ease in the more dramatic full-length gowns.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou

Mark Fast makes knitwear so exciting; all you’d want to wear with his pieces are a pair of heels. This designer is in the habit of using Christian Louboutin shoes for catwalk shows, making the ‘effortless and strong’ Mark Fast woman look complete. Hair was erratically plaited, mimicking the intertwined knitwear. Greys, deep blues, and pink-nudes set against black made up a simple colour palette that wouldn’t look out of place on any self-respecting grunger.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Gaarte

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

I really like what Mark Fast has come with for next season; but what I love even more is seeing him develop as a designer. He’s definitely gotten to a place where he doesn’t have to prove himself through show-stopping pieces that only work on the catwalk and celebrities. I found this collection his most complete in terms of a range of pieces, which no doubt will worn by many a lady come winter. Mark Fast only needs to change one thing for his next collection; get a bigger venue. He’s outgrowing the BFC Showspace.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Anna Higgie, ,BFC Showspace, ,Christian Louboutin, ,Claire Kearns, ,David Lynch, ,Feminine, ,Fire Walk with Me, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Grey, ,grunge, ,Kanye West, ,knitwear, ,Layered, ,London Fashion Week A/W 2012, ,Make-up, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Paris Fashion Week, ,plaits, ,Questions in a World of Blue

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Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Print.

Holly Fowler CSM Dress by Claire Kearns
Holly Fowler by Claire Kearns.

I’ll always be a print kind of girl – I have a degree in printed textiles after all… and have you seen the way I dress? – but at some of the graduate show stands it seemed that clashing colours had got totally out of control, shop pushing the boundaries of what even I can deal with. On the whole Central Saint Martins students chose to take a more considered approach to print. My favourite work came from Holly Fowler who went a little bit Mary Katrantzou, a little bit Holly Fulton and all out maxi with her stunning oversized jewel prints on long dresses. Absolutely adored these.

Holly Fowler by Michelle Pegrume
Holly Fowler by Michelle Pegrume.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fowler. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I wasn’t so enamoured of Lucie Sutton‘s approach, mixing floral and splashy Oriental influenced prints and colours with a punk aesthetic that paid homage to the last days of Central Saint Martins in its Charing Cross home. The school moves to new premises in Kings Cross soon.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Lucie Sutton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Lucie Sutton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Lucie Sutton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Lucie Sutton photography by Amelia Gregory
Lucie Sutton.

Alfhild Kulper took a pleated and layered approach that could have given him a spot in my earlier blog post but it was his clever use of print that really stood out for me: I loved the way that faces seemed to emerge from the netting of wide skirts.

Alfhild Kulper Netting Dress by Claire Kearns
Alfhild Kulper Netting Dress by Claire Kearns.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Alfhild Kulper photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Alfhild Kulper photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Alfhild Kulper photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Alfhild Kulper photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Alfhild Kulper photography by Amelia Gregory
Alfhild Kulper.

For Annabel Luton owl and feather imagery was combined with earthy tribal colouring in layered outfits of elegant velvet and chiffon that gave a classic feel.

Khrystyna Famenko by Michelle Pegrume
Annabel Luton by Michelle Pegrume.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Annabel Luton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Annabel Luton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Annabel Luton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Annabel Luton photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Annabel Luton photography by Amelia Gregory
Annabel Luton.

Ayako Ohori was another who integrated pleats into a more tailored vision, small patches of layered fabric appearing at neck and at waist on some of her tropical hard shouldered dresses with circuit board prints. This was a very strong look with gorgeous matching clutch bags as accessories.

Ayako Ohori Central Saint Martins by Sam Parr
Ayako Ohori by Sam Parr.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ayako Ohori photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ayako Ohori photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ayako Ohori photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ayako Ohori photography by Amelia Gregory
Ayako Ohori. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Of course the overall winner of the catwalk show was also a print student: check out Flaminia Saccucci’s floral printed latex in my earlier blog.

Categories ,80s, ,Alfhild Kulper, ,Annabel Luton, ,Ayako Ohori, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Charing Cross Road, ,Claire Kearns, ,Graduate Shows, ,Holly Fowler, ,Holly Fulton, ,Kings Cross, ,Lucie Sutton, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Maxi dresses, ,Michelle Pegrume, ,Oriental, ,pleats, ,print, ,punk, ,tailored, ,York Hall

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