Amelia’s Magazine | Xiao Li, Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Xiao Li A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Xiao Li A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

We covered Xiao Li when she took part in the graduate showcase at Fashion Scout last season, and this year she returned to the catwalk with a stunning new collection as a winner of the much coveted Fashion Scout Merit Award. Chinese born Xiao Li is yet another example of the great education we provide in the arts, gaining an BA in womenswear from LCF and then an MA in knitwear from the RCA. She sent her clothing down the catwalk to one of my current favourite tunes: a cover of Daft Punk’s Get Lucky by Daughter. It was the perfect accompaniment to her collection, sweet as sugar but totally fresh and modern.

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Girls wore a simple pink wash in their hair, minimal make up and clumpy platform sandals to accompany billowy mesh, latex and silicon separates covered in geometric 3D decorative details. There were gigantic puffy sleeves, feature pockets, frou frou pencil skirts, wide legged trousers, a cape and even a pair of dungarees.

Xiao Li by Amy Dover

Xiao Li by Amy Dover.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston.

Xiao Li’s strength is in her deft combination of unexpected material, technique and shape to create an extraordinary and often breathtaking silhouette. The predominantly baby blue and cream palette was offset by the use of intense royal blue, with the last outfit spectacularly fading into dark so that the integral LED lights glowed in an otherworldly manner.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Amy Dover, ,Daft Punk, ,Daughter, ,Fashion Scout, ,Get Lucky, ,iceland, ,Katie Rose Johnston, ,LCF, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Merit Award, ,rca, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Xiao Li

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pam Hogg: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Gaarte
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Gaarte.

On Saturday night I stayed later than any other day at fashion week so that I could attend the Pam Hogg show, something I have looked forward to every season since she returned to LFW: I don’t know if I will stay away late from my baby again. As usual this was a massively oversubscribed event, with plentiful rock royalty in attendance; humming and hawing at each other in the melee before the show started and then adopting a look of massive boredom for the duration of the main event, which began an hour late. Nick Rhodes, Jefferson Hack, Rankin and Princess Julia were just a few of the people in my line of sight. At this show there were named seats stretching three rows back, so I ended up far far from the action, badly positioned behind Daniel Lismore and his gigantic hat.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

Pam Hogg is nothing if not predictable: you know what you’re going to get when she puts on a show. Catsuits? Well of course, that’s her speciality. A bit of tit and muff? Check. Some outrageous headgear? Yup, all present and correct. A semi famous model? Well, here I must confess that I don’t know if she did have a famous guest this time. If she did, they weren’t on my radar.

Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Amy Dover
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Amy Dover.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory

This season Pam Hogg decorated her models with huge pleated cylinders and glossy boxes. Sheer panelled catsuits were worn by avante grade ballet dancers who wheeled and swooped midway down the catwalk; a muscly male stood sentinel before taking his whirl towards the cameras sporting ominous curled black nails.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

The colour palette featured more Pam Hogg staples; plentiful white, black and red. A dusky pink sequinned fabric that was used in abundance last season returned for another outing, as did other familiar shapes: the hooped dirndl of previous seasons made a reappearance, covered once more in ruched fabric and ribbons. Much has been made of a Britney Spears-esque glossy red catsuit (circa Oops! I did it again) but it was such a ‘Pam‘ look that I doubt she even realised the reference. My favourite looks were more of a break from the norm: a stunning A-line coat made dashing with sharp lines of red satin scorched on black, and a skin tight metallic dress that reminded me of the outfits in Blade Runner. The final looks came accessorised with huge furry headpieces that tumbled down the back.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory

When Pam Hogg came out for her final turn she too sported one of her trademark catsuits, a red and gold number that was saucily slit under the buttocks. I have it under good authority that her catsuits are superbly made and able to smooth out even the lumpiest of bodies. Maybe, at the end of the day, that’s the most important thing of all.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Amy Dover, ,Blade Runner, ,britney spears, ,Catsuits, ,catwalk show, ,celebrities, ,Daniel Alexander, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Jefferson Hack, ,London Fashion Week, ,naked, ,Nick Rhodes, ,nude, ,Oops! I did it again, ,Pam Hogg, ,Princess Julia, ,Rankin, ,review

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