Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Mitika Chohan.
We have sadly not been invited to a Pam Hogg show for two years now, and boy have I missed them: they are an incredibly hot ticket, so when I arrived late I was only able to secure a good position with the magic addition of a fold up chair. Only when I checked twitter later did I discover that the front row had been the usual celeb fest – I missed Nick Rhodes, Alexandra Burke, Janice Dickinson, Jo Wood and no doubt a host of others. Some of them can be found in this Fashion Scout blog post, as can I, in a lesson on how not to be caught on camera during LFW: looking like a giant warthog (I am HEAVILY PREGNANT) and desperately hoping to escape the photo. Note to self: if in doubt, smile.
Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Faye West.
The Pam Hogg A/W 2012 catwalk show WILD life began in stately fashion, with a sawing Appalachian violin to accompany the sedate steps of a model in towering ribboned heels. She wore a swinging latex dirndl skirt adorned with Hogg’s trademark geometric shapes in red, black, white and grey that were reminiscent of smaller knitted folk patterns, whilst a huge matching bonnet swallowed her head. Make-up was similarly bold: monobrows met sharply in the middle and accompanied Geisha-like dots above and beneath the eyes.
Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Lo Parkin.
Jaime Winstone was next to stride out with a bouncy swagger, stopping briefly for a languid barndancing turn with a fellow model in the middle of the catwalk. Then it was on to Pam Hogg‘s inimitable skintight catsuits – this time in an array of geometric, mesh and beribboned combinations.
As more and more flesh was revealed the models retained a demure demeanour more befitting the previous wide skirts, even as they struggled to stay upright on crippling heels. Well, I say heels: what would have been heels were angled impossibly towards the platformed soles so that the girls appeared to balance on thin air.
Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Veronica Rowlands.
Red lace, silver lame, and furry merkins… it’s not a mixture I would ever have considered putting together myself, but Pam Hogg somehow combined incongruous materials to extravagant effect. Some of my favourite bodysuits featured carefully placed panels of rucking that puffed out sexily to emphasise womanly curves on buttocks and bosom.
Geometrics in copper, gold and silver created a futuristic effect as the music segued into something more modern, albeit with violins still at the forefront of the brilliant soundtrack – a testament to Pam’s love of music. Tight fitting dresses and culottes that swung just on the knee were beautifully sexy, especially in mesh with black arrow patterns – proving that these body hugging wonders suit more voluptuous creatures too.
The show finished with a trio of stunning pieces: a sequinned full length dress in lilac, rose and gold, a dolly like mesh culotte dress with strategically placed lace cascading down the buttocks, and the denouement: a boudoir influenced outfit constructed entirely from red bows, complete with red ribbon garter. For the finale Pam Hogg – sporting cartoon bright yellow hair – was dragged down the catwalk by Jaime Winstone to whoops and hollers from the crowd.
Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Faye West.
No one can beat Pam Hogg when it comes to reinventing the catsuit – and this show proved that she can cut a mean skirt and bonnet too. In a 2009 interview she spoke honestly of the financial difficulty in creating such avante garde designs and her reliance on friends to sponsor her comeback fashion show: one wonders how she continues to survive, creating such uncommercial but fantastical outfits without which London Fashion Week would be a poorer place.
Pam Hogg A/W 2012 by Gilly Rochester.
All photography by Amelia Gregory.
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- London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Pam Hogg