Amelia’s Magazine | Tata Naka: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Presentation Review

Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

Since Tata Naka returned to London Fashion Week it has become customary for Tamara and Natasha Surguladze to create a wonderful set that they photograph live for their upcoming season’s look book: it’s a great concept and always a lot of fun to watch from the sidelines: the whole experience more akin to voyeurism than the traditional catwalk show. This season the Georgian twins were inspired by American High School movies and the multitude of references that underpin these down the decades. So here we had very preppy 50s styles abutting up against the big bouffant hair of the 1980s, a very direct reference to which was found in the graffiti wall that provided the backdrop to one set up, ‘Breakfast Club‘ written in bubble writing above a heart. Sugary coloured tweeds were layered over stripes and trademark graphic prints that merged Mondrian blocks with Pop Art faces, the illustrative elements of which were inspired by iconic scenes from key 80s movies. As we milled around we were served cocktails in milk cartons by ‘dinner ladies’ courtesy of Bompas & Parr.

Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Rebecca French
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Rebecca French.

In the locker room sweethearts covered a simple pencil dress, the detail echoed in a cute cut out back. An A-line skirt was worn with a baseball jacket: other girls wore big quiffs and pastel blocks, both tapered trousers and pencil skirts given sheer mesh slices at the hemlines. Sets were changed with alarming speed and confidence, but the downside of this way of showing is that unless you have an hour or so free you will only manage to see a small portion of the collection. I managed to see two set changes by Chameleon Visual: Jenny Robins took photos of the cheerleaders at the bleachers, and there was also a Prom shoot, where sweethearts emerged yet again as a major theme. The talented Tata Naka twins once more showcased their inventive A/W 2013 collection in wonderfully inimitable style. I have come to expect nothing less.

Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka A/W 2013. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Tata Naka by Jenny Robins
Tata Naka by Jenny Robins
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Jenny Robins.

Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu.

Tata_Naka by_Daniel_Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

Categories ,1980s, ,50s, ,A/W 2013, ,American High School movies, ,Bompas & Parr, ,Breakfast Club, ,Chameleon Visual, ,Cheerleaders, ,Cissy Hu, ,Daniel Alexander, ,Georgian, ,Jenny Robins, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mondrian, ,Movies, ,Pop Art, ,Prom, ,Rebecca French, ,Tamara and Natasha Surguladze, ,Tata Naka

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pam Hogg: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Gaarte
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Gaarte.

On Saturday night I stayed later than any other day at fashion week so that I could attend the Pam Hogg show, something I have looked forward to every season since she returned to LFW: I don’t know if I will stay away late from my baby again. As usual this was a massively oversubscribed event, with plentiful rock royalty in attendance; humming and hawing at each other in the melee before the show started and then adopting a look of massive boredom for the duration of the main event, which began an hour late. Nick Rhodes, Jefferson Hack, Rankin and Princess Julia were just a few of the people in my line of sight. At this show there were named seats stretching three rows back, so I ended up far far from the action, badly positioned behind Daniel Lismore and his gigantic hat.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

Pam Hogg is nothing if not predictable: you know what you’re going to get when she puts on a show. Catsuits? Well of course, that’s her speciality. A bit of tit and muff? Check. Some outrageous headgear? Yup, all present and correct. A semi famous model? Well, here I must confess that I don’t know if she did have a famous guest this time. If she did, they weren’t on my radar.

Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Amy Dover
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Amy Dover.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory

This season Pam Hogg decorated her models with huge pleated cylinders and glossy boxes. Sheer panelled catsuits were worn by avante grade ballet dancers who wheeled and swooped midway down the catwalk; a muscly male stood sentinel before taking his whirl towards the cameras sporting ominous curled black nails.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Pam Hogg A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

The colour palette featured more Pam Hogg staples; plentiful white, black and red. A dusky pink sequinned fabric that was used in abundance last season returned for another outing, as did other familiar shapes: the hooped dirndl of previous seasons made a reappearance, covered once more in ruched fabric and ribbons. Much has been made of a Britney Spears-esque glossy red catsuit (circa Oops! I did it again) but it was such a ‘Pam‘ look that I doubt she even realised the reference. My favourite looks were more of a break from the norm: a stunning A-line coat made dashing with sharp lines of red satin scorched on black, and a skin tight metallic dress that reminded me of the outfits in Blade Runner. The final looks came accessorised with huge furry headpieces that tumbled down the back.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory

When Pam Hogg came out for her final turn she too sported one of her trademark catsuits, a red and gold number that was saucily slit under the buttocks. I have it under good authority that her catsuits are superbly made and able to smooth out even the lumpiest of bodies. Maybe, at the end of the day, that’s the most important thing of all.

Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg AW 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Amy Dover, ,Blade Runner, ,britney spears, ,Catsuits, ,catwalk show, ,celebrities, ,Daniel Alexander, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Jefferson Hack, ,London Fashion Week, ,naked, ,Nick Rhodes, ,nude, ,Oops! I did it again, ,Pam Hogg, ,Princess Julia, ,Rankin, ,review

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Amelia’s Magazine | Inspired by Illustration: An interview with jewellery designer Annabelle Lucilla

Annabelle Lucilla by Laura Hickman
Annabelle Lucilla by Laura Hickman.

I first ran across the beautiful illustrated etched designs of Annabelle Lucilla at the One Year On exhibition at New Designers 2013, and her work instantly caught my eye. When it turned out that she knew me from using social media an instant rapport was born. Here Annabelle talks us through her inspiration and design process: and explains why you must never underestimate the power of online networking in building your career in the creative industries.

Annabelle Lucilla hovering hummingbird design
Annabelle Lucilla: hovering hummingbird design.

When did you start to combine your love of illustration and jewellery to create ‘Metallic Graphics’, and how did it all start out?
I have always drawn intricately; my mum is an illustrator so I acquire that from her. I started to create jewellery when I was around 13, but I didn’t combine these two techniques until I was in my 2nd year of my Jewellery and Silversmithing degree. I initially set out to study Surface Pattern design at London College of Fashion. However, I felt like I could always come back to textile design, after I had learnt a technical skill that would set me apart from others. Discovering etching was a ‘bingo’ moment for me as I was always chasing after the idea of making an illustration into a wearable, permanent object, which had character and form. My Illustrations started out as large ‘motif’ stories, and then I created certain singular characters to go in the story. They are based around mythical tales, ancient cultures and lands and symbolism.

Annabelle Lucilla Jewellery by Daniel Alexander
Annabelle Lucilla Jewellery by Daniel Alexander.

What was the best thing about studying at Sir John Cass?
I very much enjoyed my 3 years of study at the Cass, especially being able to explore a wide range of processes and techniques. Most of all I was allowed to find my niche aesthetic, as many find that difficult when producing their final degree collection. I was quite sure about what I wanted my collection to look like, as well as what techniques I wanted to combine. I was given the opportunity to take part in a range of competitions and selling opportunities which helped me learn about creating a commercial collection. I also worked with a wide range of materials and finishes, such as resin, horn, aluminium, leather, rubber, powder coating, anodizing and not forgetting etching!

Annabelle Lucilla Jewellery, Peacock necklace
Can you tell us more about the inspiration behind your first major collection?
My debut collection, Oriental Embodiments is very decadent, yet classical. There are definite hints of Ancient Grecian and Indian patternation and form. I got a lot of inspiration from looking at Indian bodily adornment, and how they decorate every part of their bodies in jewels and chains and droplets. I wanted to reinvent some traditional techniques such as Filigree and stone setting, and so I contemporized and refined them to give them a modern feel. The collection features etched, hollow Peacocks, which originate from my hand drawn illustration. This was the connection to India, and they have a very regal, majestic aura, which I wanted the collection to reflect. I juxtaposed these curvilinear forms with geometric forms to give a sense of balance and modernity.

Annabelle Lucilla Jewellery by Zo Bevan
Annabelle Lucilla Jewellery by Zo Bevan.

How do you envisage your jewellery been worn?
The purpose of my debut commercial collection was to give the consumer a more wearable version of the large, decadent items I made for my degree collection. I want my jewellery to be worn as everyday staple accessories, with an added hint of glamour and luxury. The designs I created were envisaged to be worn by all ages, not one particular group of people. The collection consists of some classical, dainty earrings, large statement necklaces and cool, contemporary rings and bracelets.

Annabelle Lucilla Jewllery, Gold Oriental Peacock Earrings
What did you learn on the Crafts Council Hot House programme?
This programme was an amazing experience. Subjects ranged from making a business plan to pricing your product correctly. From learning about how to plan financially for the year ahead, to learning about what your work is all about and then in turn who your target market is. What was helpful was that it was spread over 6 months, and tailored directly to your specific practice. You could improve your business as the course progressed. I met so many wonderful people, and having my Hot House ‘Buddy’ Imogen Belfield was so much help, as I could have regular meetings to go over aspects of my business. Overall, it is a programme I would wholly recommend to anyone wanting to start or improve their business.

Annabelle Lucilla by Annabel Dover
Annabelle Lucilla by Annabel Dover.

Which other creatives do you recommend we should check out?
I would recommend people to take a look at Sophie Harley’s jewellery. She is someone I admire greatly, and who creates exquisite, storytale pieces. I love that there is real meaning behind her designs, and people always connect with her designs for this reason.

Oriental Peacock Earrings Annabelle Lucilla Hastings
What is it like working at Cockpit Arts?
Cockpit Arts is a fantastic collection of designers and makers. Being part of a large community makes you feel like there is always someone to help you if you need advice. It is a wonderful start for me as I only launched my business in January 2013, and the collection was finished in April and so having a professional studio to go to and work makes all the difference when you want to be taken seriously with your profession. The Open Studios in June and November are great selling opportunities, as the public is brought to you, and they are fascinated to see the designers in their working studios.

Annabelle Lucilla Jewllery Silver Oriental Peacock Necklace
You’ve already done extremely well; securing loads of awards and bursaries in a very short time period. What are your top tips for gaining recognition as a new independent jeweller?
I would recommend entering lots of design competitions, and to try and be part of larger organisations, as these can help spread your name for you. Nothing happens instantly, but collectively, each achievement will help people recognise your brand. Social media platforms are also great for reaching a wider audience, so plan to tweet or share news on facebook everyday, as regular comments and posts help more people find you. Also, Social Media is what it is, ‘Social’ so interact with people, and make connections. Lastly, be original, and find your unique selling point that will keep your designs fresh and instinctively associated with your brand.

Annabelle Lucilla Jewllery Purple Agate Necklace with tassels
What next?
I am very much looking forward to exhibiting at International Jewellery London this week, which will officially launch my debut collection. This is the largest show I have done so far, so it will be good to show my collection to such a wide range of retailers, buyers and stockists from the U.K. and abroad. I am launching a few new etched designs in late September, so keep a look out for that. I am also showing at London Fashion Week as part of a collective with one of my online stockists, Wonsuponatime, which I am very much looking forward to. I am also taking on a few more established online stockists in the next few months. Christmas is going to be busy, with the Cockpit Arts Open Studios in November. I will also be exhibiting as part of an exciting curated exhibition about ‘the diverse and eclectic cultural influences present within the British craft scene‘ in the new year.

Categories ,Ancient Grecian, ,Annabel Dover, ,Annabelle Lucilla, ,Cockpit Arts, ,Crafts Council, ,Daniel Alexander, ,Filigree, ,Hot House, ,Imogen Belfield, ,Indian, ,International Jewellery London, ,interview, ,jewellery, ,Jewellery and Silversmithing, ,Laura Hickman, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Metallic Graphics, ,New Designers, ,One Year On, ,Open Studios, ,Oriental Embodiments, ,Peacocks, ,Sir John Cass School of Art, ,Social Media, ,Sophie Harley, ,Surface Pattern, ,Wonsuponatime, ,Zo Bevan

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Amelia’s Magazine | Jean-Pierre Braganza: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

For A/W 2013 Jean-Pierre Braganza once again explored geometry, this time influenced by Cosmic Symbolism, Fantasy and an imagined Sci-Fi world where women are leaders. Starkonnen was dominated by this season’s favourite minimalist colours of black and white, here given a utilitarian space ship vibe with Braganza‘s signature sharp panelled tailoring and the addition of a round pattern intersected with lines, reminiscent of Leonardo da Vinci‘s infamous image of the Vitruvian Man. Apparently this arrangement of circles and lines forms perfect geometry in which every known shape appears. Matching fractal designs were inspired by the scales of a dragon and appeared as placements prints intersected with jagged bursts of peachy coral or across oversized collars and draped around legs on maxi skirts. A glowing teal blue was the only other highlight, used in large swathes for a simple shift dress and elegant trouser suit.

Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 illustrations by Daniel Alexander.

Long fabric waist ties were inspired by ‘samurai silhouettes‘ and gave a softer vibe to the dramatic lines, intended to convey ‘power, wisdom and elegance‘. Around the necks hung beautiful beaded and knotted necklaces by Janine Barraclough, and the occasional model swung an elegant leather clutch bag by Bracher Emden. Sleek hair hung parted from the middle and swished smoothly, apart from at the crown, where a neatly bound top knot perched. I imagine that Jean-Pierre Braganza must have watched a few Sci-Fi films as research for Starkonnen as this all added to the impression that these women could be tribes from a far off galaxy, elegantly swishing through an intergalactic ship amongst many other races.

Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Jane Young
Jean Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Jane Young
Jean Pierre Braganza A/W 2013 by Jane Young.

Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregoryc
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jean Pierre Braganza A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Jean Pierre Braganza by Angela Lamb
Jean Pierre Braganza by Angela Lamb.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Angela Lamb, ,Bracher Emden, ,Cosmic Symbolism, ,Daniel Alexander, ,fantasy, ,Jane Young, ,Janine Barraclough, ,Jean Pierre Braganza, ,Leonardo Da Vinci, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Kills Me, ,Sci-Fi, ,Starkonnen, ,Vitruvian Man

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Amelia’s Magazine | Easter 2013: Illustrated

Easter by Daniel Alexander
Easter by Daniel Alexander.

I don’t know about you but this feels like the least Eastery Easter for many years: normally the weather is becoming properly spring-like and the daffodils are blooming in abundance. In 2013 though, it still feels like the depths of a ridiculously long, cold, wet winter: and many animals are suffering due to the prolonged cold weather: sheep and lambs have been buried in snow drifts across the country, hedgehogs and other hibernating animals are unable to wake up because the weather is not warm enough yet, many birds and insects are unable to find food because the plants on which they feed are not yet in bloom and seabirds such as puffins are dying of starvation because they can’t eat enough to keep up their energy and keep themselves warm. And on that sobre note I present to you these Easter illustrations: all of them focused on pagan symbols that have been part of spring equinox celebrations the world over for thousands of years. Let’s hope new beginnings arrive soon.

Easter Bunnies by Katie Eberts
Easter Bunnies by Katie Eberts.

Easter Bunny by Ruth Joyce 2013
Easter Bunny by Ruth Joyce.

Easter Drawing by Holly Maguire
Easter Drawing by Holly Maguire.

garden of eden by Lucy Bishop
Garden of Eden by Lucy Bishop.

Easter Illustration by Constance Posey
Easter Illustration by Constance Posey.

Easter-by-Sylwia-Szyszka
Easter by Sylwia Szyszka.

Easter Bunny by Jo Chambers
Easter Bunny by Jo Chambers.

Easter by Madi Illustration
Easter by Madi Illustration.

Easter by Jo Rose (Dear Little Forest)
Easter by Jo Rose (Deer Little Forest).

easter by Benjamin Phillips
easter by Benjamin Phillips.

Categories ,2013, ,Benjamin Phillips, ,Bunnies, ,Chicks, ,Constance Posey, ,Daniel Alexander, ,Deer Little Forest, ,Easter, ,Eggs, ,Holly Maguire, ,illustration, ,Jo Chambers, ,Jo Rose, ,Katie Eberts, ,Lucy Bishop, ,Madi Illustration, ,Pagan, ,Rabits, ,Ruth Joyce, ,Studio Legohead, ,Sylwia Szyszka

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Amelia’s Magazine | Introducing Tiny Dancer: Who Am I?

Tiny Dancer by Jo Ley
Tiny Dancer by Jo Ley.

It’s not often that I get over-excited about a music artist on the basis of one video, but that is exactly what happened after hearing the soon to be released single Who Am I? from singer Tiny Dancer, a pop star in the making if ever I saw one. This exotic whirlwind hails from a small village just outside Sheffield, where a passion for music secured her a place at the local theatre school. With a look that channels the leotards, swaying moves and swinging locks of Kate Bush, and a dance floor friendly sound that is all her own, I caught up to find out what makes Tiny tick.

YouTube Preview Image
Tiny Dancer by Laura Hickman
Tiny Dancer by Laura Hickman.

You describe yourself as an ‘artist having a love affair with music’ – which came first and how do the two entwine in your life?
I made a commitment to my music, music is the love of my life. It’s a relationship without the problems and it will never stop making me happy. There wasn’t really a question as to whether or not I’d be doing this, I’ve been doing it all my life so why would that change? I was making music since i was around 8 when I first sat by my dad at the guitar, I wrote my first song when I was 13 with a few basic chords on the piano. 

Tiny Dancer who am i
Tiny Dancer by Sharon Farrow
Tiny Dancer by Sharon Farrow.

You’ve already been compared with some greats: Kate Bush, Gwen Stefani, Marina & the Diamonds. Who were you listening to when you were a little girl?
I grew up listening to a lot of songs my dad would play – by The Beatles, Phil Collins, The Monkees and Genesis. Then I discovered Lene Lovich, by that time I’d lost my mind… she’s still living somewhere inside of me I’m sure. I knew at the early stages of my life I was different. I sometimes felt and still feel like I’m channelling another person or someone else lives inside me… I’m definitely being guided and watched. 

Tiny Dancer by Carley Chiu
Tiny Dancer by Carley Chiu.

Tiny Dancer by Gemma Cotterell
Tiny Dancer by Gemma Cotterell.

It’s been said that you are not another ‘winsome girl perched on a stool with an acoustic guitar‘ – how do you write?
I experience things, I write about them, and then I move on. Writing about experiences enables me to move on from them. It’s a cathartic process, and has, in many ways, changed my outlook on life as a result. My lyrics are often dark, but I’m not exactly the Tim Burton of lyrics. Darkness is supposed to be the absence of light but for me it’s a place where creativity thrives, this is the kind of darkness that inspires me to write in the way that I do. I write stories really, that’s what my songs are, short stories but I hope they enable people to create their own personal story.

Tiny Dancer by Katie Eberts
Tiny Dancer by Katie Eberts.

Tiny Dancer by Simon McLaren
Tiny Dancer by Simon McLaren.

I love your outfit in Who Am I? – how did you decide what to wear and how important is the way you dress?
You know how a child wears exactly what they want? Well that’s me. Maybe it’s difficult to understand, but I’m not fashionable. My image will forever be evolving, change is what keeps everything on it’s feet… each outfit I wear has it’s own personality, in fact you could say that my clothes control me. My favourite piece to wear is self expression, I have always wanted to wear a black fin. Face paint is also a vital part of me, paint is art and art is a form of exorcism… it adds another dimension to my performance.

Tiny Dancer by Daniel Alexander
Tiny Dancer by Daniel Alexander.

Tiny Dancer by Lea Rimoux
Tiny Dancer by Lea Rimoux.

You’ve been working with Wayne Wilkins – how does the relationship work?
Wayne is one of the most talented and genuine people you will ever meet. I’m deadly serious when I say this… When we work together, we are always in a very focused space. It’s also very much a wonderland when musical magic is born.

Tiny Dancer in orange
Who Am I? by Tiny Dancer is released by Croydon Boy on 6th May.

Categories ,Carley Chiu, ,Croydon Boy, ,Daniel Alexander, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Genesis, ,Jo Ley, ,Kate Bush, ,Katie Eberts, ,Laura Hickman, ,Lea Rimoux, ,Lene Lovich, ,Phil Collins, ,Sharon Farrow, ,sheffield, ,Simon Mclaren, ,the beatles, ,The Monkees, ,Tiny Dancer, ,video, ,Wayne Wilkins, ,Who Am I?

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