Amelia’s Magazine | Lug Von Siga: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

Turkish designer Gül Ağış presented her brand Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 collection in the upper halls of Freemasons’ Hall at Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week. What we saw was an elegant and varied collection that featured evening dresses in luxurious fabrics such as silk crepe, leather and knitwear, as well as some more sportive outfits. The colour palette ranged from black and white to beige, caramel and coral red. Just by looking at Gül Ağış’ S/S 2014 collection one could easily discern influences from her rich cultural and historical heritage. Exposed bellies, see through fabric around hips and low fringed waists all brought to mind images of exotic belly dancers. Three dresses with laced, swirly patterns also reminded me of doilies used as decorations on tables and sofas of Anatolian houses.

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

But, as it often happens at fashion shows, reading the press release revealed an extra, unexpected layer of meaning and intention to the collection. This season Gül Ağış was inspired by populations around the world recently going back to tribal attitudes to express their anger towards the state of the world and the nature of their governments. More specifically she was inspired by the 2013 protests in Turkey started on 28 May 2013, initially to contest the urban development plan for Istanbul’s Taksim Gezi Park. Prints of tribal masks, which are often used in transitional situations and rituals, appeared writ large on tops and dresses. A mask protects, empowers the wearer spiritually and also gives anonymity, so that one can be aggressive and break the rules; thus here this powerful symbol was used beautifully to illustrate the insecurity towards the future felt by the Turkish people.

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Lug Von Siga Catwalk photo by Amelia Gregory SS 2014

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 7

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 6

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory-0023

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 5

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 9

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 10

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 11

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou HAIR

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 4

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory and Maria Papadimitriou.

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gül Ağış, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lug Von Siga, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masks, ,Novemto Komo, ,S/S 2014, ,Taksim Gezi Park Protests, ,Tribal, ,Tribal Masks, ,Turkish, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | Inbar Spector: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I first came across an Inbar Spector dress on a ‘wall’ created by Gabby Young and Katie Antoniou’s Gabberdashery for Supermarket Sarah. It was a voluminous, twisted, tulle dress in a gorgeous light ocean blue which instantly made an impression on me. Since then I have followed Inbar Spector’s work via her strong presence on Facebook, which has enabled me to have peaks into her studio, see pieces in progress, and get a glimpse of her sweet personality. I also had the pleasure of seeing one of her creations in real life worn by Gabby Young – a fan of Spector’s designs – during Gabby Young and Other Animals’ Koko gig last October.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

So I was quite excited to see Inbar Spector‘s A/W 2012 collection at Fashion Scout’s venue, Freemasons’ Hall. I was certain that I was going to have my dose of the extraordinary, which I very much craved after a couple of less than thrilling London Fashion Week experiences the night before. I was not disappointed: I felt a smile forming the moment the show began. The models, beautifully styled by Hope Von Joel, walked slowly towards the photographers’ pit accompanied by a great soundtrack mixed by Todd Hart.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

There was a lot of continuity from S/S 2012. Inbar Spector displayed again her amazing skills in constructing, twisting and knotting generous amounts of silks in soft pastels on metallic faux leather laser cut bodysuits and dresses. The slightly 80s disco metallic bodysuits seemed to me to match perfectly with Todd Hart’s mix, which featured heavily electric keyboard sounds from that decade.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax Illustrated Moodboard

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax Illustrated Moodboard

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

This 80s aura helped us escape for a few moments back to a time when we were younger – and maybe richer. The theme to Inbar Spector’s show was indeed Escapism. She quotes ‘fairytales, manga, dreams and circus clowns’ as some of her inspirations for this season. She also makes a connection between the perforated faux leather elements in her clothes – which allow a lot of skin to show through so that one does not know where the real body starts and ends – and people being ‘ruffled’, like some of her clothes, by having plastic surgery and so escaping from the reality of their bodies.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 Lara Jensen headpiece by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW 2012 Lara Jensen headpiece by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Escaping or changing one’s identity or hiding behind something were relevant themes to another star in the show: the elaborately jewelled headpieces by Lara Jensen which fell in front of the models’ faces like masks. They certainly reminded me of lavishly adorned princesses and maidens from tales of exotic places, but I could not help thinking they also had an element of S&M to them, which again created a link to escapism. I think I was aided in this thought by the constant recurrence in the soundtrack mix of the song ‘Obsession’ by the band Army of Lovers.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Novemto Komo

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Novemto Komo

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Reed Rainer

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Reed Rainer

Again similarly to what she has done in previous shows, Inbar Spector presented her collection building an impressive crescendo by starting with less theatrical pieces, gradually sending out more and more voluminous garments, finishing off with two numbers which were so heart stopping and exciting the audience could not help but clap, cheer and whistle in keen approval. When in the end a tiny, adorable Inbar walked down the catwalk holding hands with the model who was wearing her gigantic closing number, she was drowned by it in physical terms, but her potential and creativity seemed just as gigantic – and then some.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,80s, ,Army of Colours, ,Bodysuit, ,Bride, ,Circus, ,Constructivism, ,Crinolines, ,disco, ,Escapism, ,Exotic, ,fairytales, ,Faux Leather, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabberdashery, ,gabby young, ,Gabby Young and Other Animals, ,Headpiece, ,Hope Von Joel, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Inbar Spector, ,jewellery, ,Katie Antoniou, ,Kerry Jones, ,lace, ,Lara Jensen, ,Laser Cutting, ,London Fashion Week, ,Love Amelia, ,Manga, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masks, ,Metalic, ,Mitika Chohan, ,Novemto Komo, ,Obsession, ,Pastel Colours, ,pastels, ,Perforated, ,Plastic Surgery, ,Reed Rainer, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Ruffles, ,S&M, ,Sadomasochism, ,Silks, ,Supermarket Sarah, ,Todd Hart, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Berenika Czarnota

Berenika Czarnota 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
Berenika Czarnota A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs.

Having seen the cute photo in the Fashion Week Poland guide book I was most excited to see the first catwalk show back over at Expo on Sunday… Designer Berenika Czarnota did not disappoint, malady showing a series of fabulously inventive yet wearable knitwear in shades of grey, remedy with highlights of lime, orange and blue. And at last there was the chance to admire some interesting styling, even if it was a tad overplayed: each model came out with a cute little wolf mask perched at a jaunty angle on her head. Calf high socks with block-heeled shoes worked especially well in tomato red.

Berenika Czarnota A/W 2011 by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
Berenika Czarnota A/W 2011 by Michelle Urvall Nyrén.

Chunky knit jumpers, cowls, dresses and throw shawls featured over-sized cabling, intarsia block lettering and in one case an intarsia helicopter. Floaty print designs called to mind cloudy skies or batik-like splodges. The collection became weaker towards the end as more commercial pieces started to feature heavily in what was an overly long show, but Berenika Czarnota was undoubtedly one of my favourite designers from Fashion Week Poland. Great stuff.

Berenika Czarnota A/W 2011 by Michelle Urvall Nyrén
Berenika Czarnota A/W 2011 by Michelle Urvall Nyrén.

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Berenika Czarnota A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Berenika Czarnota, ,Cable, ,Designers’ Avenue, ,Expo, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Intarsia, ,knitwear, ,Lodz, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masks, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,prints, ,Slowly the Eggs

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