Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Tosun: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 by Dom&Ink
Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 by Dom&Ink.

Last week I ran an exclusive preview on Zeynep Tosun because last season her collection was one of my highlights. For Spring/Summer she did not disappoint, leaping into warmer weather with a range of summery fabrics that included sporty netting, floaty chiffon and swinging panels of silk in a gossamer light colour palette of creams, dove grey, mint, on trend powder pink and caramel, accented with glossy navy and black. Out of three Turkish designers showing in London this season she was the only one not to be inspired by the effects of recent turmoils on home soil, instead inspiration was taken from the androgynous sexuality of the 1920s and transformed into a series of sport luxe garments fit for the modern day minx. The flared cut of the cape was a key shape, with capelets integral to tops and dresses, as were peek-a-boo cutout details, revealing appealing glimpses of belly and back. Delicate glass beads provided a focal point for evening wear, either fringing the sides of net panels or cascading in geometric designs down the front of slinky dresses. Styling by Tamara Cincik was kept simple: sleek ponytails were accessorised with sultry eyes and simple rope flip flops. Keep your eyes on Zeynep Tosun, she’s making big waves over at Fashion Scout.

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 by Dom&Ink
Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 by Dom&Ink.

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 by Isabelle Mattern
Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 by Isabelle Mattern.

Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory and Tim Adey.

Categories ,1920s, ,catwalk, ,Dom&Ink, ,Fashion Scout, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,review, ,S/S 2014, ,Tamara Cincik, ,Tim Adey, ,Turkish, ,Zeynep Tosun

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Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Tosun: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Preview Interview

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman
Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman.

Last season I was blown away by the discovery of Zeynep Tosun, an ambitious Turkish designer with a penchant for beautiful embellishment. This season Zeynep Tosun takes inspiration from the androgyny and sexual freedom of the 1920s for her Hidden collection. Yesterday I caught up with her in the studio to get a sneak peak of what to expect – beautifully illustrated by Laura Hickman.

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman
Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman.

I loved your show last season, how did you construct such elaborate pieces, and who does all the handiwork such as embroidery for you?
I have my own atelier in Istanbul which allows me to experiment with intricate and innovative haute couture techniques. All my embroidery is done in-house.

You have had your own brand since 2008, what has been the journey so far?
It’s been a rollercoaster ride…

What did you learn working with the likes of Alberta Ferretti and Dice Kayak?
Working at Ferretti was my first experience after graduating from Istituto di Maragoni in Milan, so it shaped my character and allowed me to hone my skills to haute couture.

This season you’ve been inspired by the 1920s – how have you translated this time period into a modern collection?
The collection denotes concealed sexuality and merges androgynous shapes with allusive femininity.

What kind of materials have you worked with for the new collection?
Luxe stone-washed silk and silk chiffon, S/S 2014 plays on transparency in a muted palette of white, smoke, navy and candy pink.

How easy was it to set up a flagship store in Istanbul and who are your customers?
My success in Istanbul led to the opening of my flagship store in Akmerkez, and the demand from my private clients mean it has grown every season. My next goal is to open stores in London and New York.

What is it like to work in Turkey in the fashion industry: what are the perks and the challenges?
I am well established as a designer in Turkey so I have much support. London is the platform to build the label internationally.

Zeynep Tosun shows on the catwalk at Freemasons’ Hall with Fashion Scout on Saturday 14th September.

Categories ,Akmerkez, ,Alberta Ferretti, ,Dice Kayak, ,Fashion Scout, ,Ferretti, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Hidden, ,interview, ,Istanbul, ,Istituto di Maragoni, ,Laura Hickman, ,preview, ,S/S 2014, ,Zeynep Tosun

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Amelia’s Magazine | Tabernacle Twins: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon
Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon.

Tabernacle Twins was a new brand to me, but having visited the website my interest was piqued. The label is described as an exploration of fashion, textiles and illustration by designer Vibe Lundemark, a graduate of the RCA now relocated home to Denmark.

Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Rose Crees
Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Rose Crees.

The show began with the appearance of the ‘Tabernacle Twins‘ who, as Vibe Lundemark‘s creative muses, take fictional journeys through surreal landscapes. This season the scene was set for a Cobra Casablanca, with our handouts describing a desert quest to search for a magic cobra, meeting fortune tellers, jesters and street magicians along the way. These ideas were translated into colourful abstract illustrations that crept and curled across large panels of fabric on dresses and blowsy shirts. Vibe Lundemark used a bold colour palette of lilac, purple, peach and ochre which was lightened by plentiful white across this relaxed collection. Girls with bright matte orange lips swung talismans from their wrists and paced the catwalk in patent white DMs with ankle socks. Alongside blouson shapes that were the perfect canvas for prints there were tailored details that included cowl necks, a crop top covered in pointy scales and a lacey matching shorts suit. A marbled chequerboard in deep purple on white created an arresting all over effect.

Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

It seemed odd that the girls chosen as twins were barely alike, and not even the same height, but that aside the twins were an appealing visual concept, who cropped up several times on the runway wearing key pieces. I liked the use of narrative to drive ideas behind the collection and look forward to seeing more from the Tabernacle Twins on future Fashion Scout runways.

Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,catwalk, ,Cobra Casablanca, ,copenhagen, ,Danish, ,Denmark, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,rca, ,review, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Tabernacle Twins, ,Vibe Lundemark

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Amelia’s Magazine | Tata Naka: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Presentation Review

Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman
Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman.

My last write up for this season features the new collection from the ever wonderful twins behind Tata Naka. This season they eschewed the cool light of the Portico Rooms (no longer used for LFW presentations) to show in the newly created Studio space on the lower levels of Somerset House. Given that this is a dark venue it was a wise decision to shoot with plenty of flash against a simple black backdrop, the girls rearranged on blacked out props, sometimes with parts of their body obscured. Given the complicated set designs of the past few seasons this was probably a relief to put together.

Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory.

This season the girls delved into a wealth of inspiration left behind by Sergei Diaghilev and his iconic Ballet Russes. The bold constructivist shapes that characterised his graphic costumes and set designs were made for these girls to expand on in their inimitable style. The collection was shown in staggered stages so that Tata Naka could shoot their look book, so I only had time to view one part. By a stroke of luck it may well have been my favourite, with geometric designs and lettering placed in great swipes of glorious colour across cream and black grounds on simple calf length strapless flapper dresses, a sleeveless playsuit and a twosie lounge suit with hexagon embellishments. For summer a simple 80s style tank swimsuit looked perfect worn with slicked back hair and heels.

Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Daisy Steele
Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Daisy Steele.

Other parts of the collection (which you can view here) featured dotty net dresses encrusted with giant appliqué stars, jigsaw panels in sugary pastels, and pop art style placement prints on strapless prom dresses. After a mild diversion into new territory last season this felt like Tata Naka returning to their rightful groove: every outfit a beautiful (wearable) piece of art in its own right.

Categories ,Ballet Russes, ,Book Review, ,Daisy Steele, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Presentation, ,S/S 2014, ,Sergei Diaghilev, ,Somerset House, ,Studio, ,Tata Naka

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Amelia’s Magazine | Yeashin: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Yeashin S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs.

Last season Yeashin‘s Woodland collection trod a narrow line between dressing up and playing dress up (kid style) so I was intrigued to see how this Korean label would progress with a stand alone show.

Yeashin S:S 2014 by Lynne Datson
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson.

Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Yeashin S:S 2014 by Gaarte
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

The extravagant layering of texture and colour that worked so well in the winter collection were translated with less success into a more summery vibe: plenty of frills, pearls and embroidery splashed across loose little girl bib dresses and used to vamp up cute girly blouses (the best garments in this show), all worn by models with long shimmery limbs. Pleats, bobbly spots and scattered leaves were echoes of last season too, this time accessorised with pie crust paper hats and simple nude coloured heels.

Yeashin S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
This was a resolutely whimsical collection that erred a little too much towards the saccharine for my taste. I look forward to seeing how Yeashin develops as the seasons go forward.

Categories ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Lynne Datson, ,S/S 2014, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Summer Afternoon Party, ,woodland, ,Yeashin

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Amelia’s Magazine | Lug Von Siga: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

Turkish designer Gül Ağış presented her brand Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 collection in the upper halls of Freemasons’ Hall at Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week. What we saw was an elegant and varied collection that featured evening dresses in luxurious fabrics such as silk crepe, leather and knitwear, as well as some more sportive outfits. The colour palette ranged from black and white to beige, caramel and coral red. Just by looking at Gül Ağış’ S/S 2014 collection one could easily discern influences from her rich cultural and historical heritage. Exposed bellies, see through fabric around hips and low fringed waists all brought to mind images of exotic belly dancers. Three dresses with laced, swirly patterns also reminded me of doilies used as decorations on tables and sofas of Anatolian houses.

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

But, as it often happens at fashion shows, reading the press release revealed an extra, unexpected layer of meaning and intention to the collection. This season Gül Ağış was inspired by populations around the world recently going back to tribal attitudes to express their anger towards the state of the world and the nature of their governments. More specifically she was inspired by the 2013 protests in Turkey started on 28 May 2013, initially to contest the urban development plan for Istanbul’s Taksim Gezi Park. Prints of tribal masks, which are often used in transitional situations and rituals, appeared writ large on tops and dresses. A mask protects, empowers the wearer spiritually and also gives anonymity, so that one can be aggressive and break the rules; thus here this powerful symbol was used beautifully to illustrate the insecurity towards the future felt by the Turkish people.

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Lug Von Siga Catwalk photo by Amelia Gregory SS 2014

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 7

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 6

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory-0023

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 5

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 9

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 10

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 11

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou HAIR

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 4

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory and Maria Papadimitriou.

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gül Ağış, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lug Von Siga, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masks, ,Novemto Komo, ,S/S 2014, ,Taksim Gezi Park Protests, ,Tribal, ,Tribal Masks, ,Turkish, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | Lulu Liu: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Lulu Liu S/S 2014 by xplusyequals
Lulu Liu S/S 2014 by xplusyequals.

It’s well known that fashion shows rarely start on time, and as a result I like to cut it fine. The trouble is, sometimes that ploy misfires, and instead of racing in with only moments left for the show to begin, I, erm, get there after it has begun. And so it was with Lulu Liu, whose show was the last that I attended this London Fashion Week. There I was, lazily finishing up my lunch in itsu (the fashionista’s choice when attending shows at Fashion Scout in Freemasons’ Hall) and keeping an eye on the PR, who was still stood outside the main entrance. Well blow me down, we sauntered over to find it had only gone and started practically on the dot of 2.30pm, and I felt pretty damn silly the moment I spied the clothing, for this was a lovely collection and I was stuck behind several yards of heads and cameras held aloft. So, I bring you my spy hole view: I think you’ll agree that after several seasons off to have a baby (yay, he even took a turn on the catwalk, but alas I did not catch it) this fashion designer has come back with a corker in her S/S 2014 collection Yarrow Wanda. Think fuchsia pink, chequerboard, ribbon weaves, mega frills and leaves in the hair. Yes, it was just beautiful, and I wish I’d had a better view.

Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Lulu Liu S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lulu Liu, ,pink, ,review, ,S/S 2014, ,xplusyequals, ,Yarrow Wanda

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nian by Nihan Buruk: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Nian S/S 2014 by  Gaarte
Nian S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

Nian was one of a slew of Turkish designers at Fashion Scout this season, showcasing a commercial collection that featured both womens and menswear, the latter casually modelled by some burly specimens with impressive tattoos. For womenswear the collection mixed a sportswear vibe with tailored offerings in the form of sweet chiffon sleeveless shirts and pencil skirts, sweeping silk dresses worn on top of swimwear and a particularly cute silk shorts suit – all rendered in a palette of cream, slate grey, lime and dusky blue. Patterns of barbed wire and crossed bird wings featured throughout, both prints created by designer Nihan Buruk as a response to the political turmoil of recent times. This was a concise offering that should do well if the right buyers find it.

Nian S/S 2014 by  Gaarte
Nian S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Fashion Scout, ,Gaarte, ,Nian, ,Nihan Buruk, ,review, ,S/S 2014

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ong-Oaj Pairam: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Ong-Oaj_Pairam_by_Novemto_komo
Ong-Oaj Pairam by Novemto Komo.

Having already done a preview interview with Brighton University graduate Ong-Oaj Pairam I was pretty excited to see more of his collection, which was inspired by Drew Barrymore in ET. But whilst the moon shaped invite may have promised great things in terms of reference the final outcome was not what I expected, by a long shot. Original inspiration be damned, this was a sweet collection of party dresses with a slight 80s vibe. Models wore their hair loosely curled and brushed to one side, shirt dresses were pulled in tight with skinny belts, and delicate lace butterflies bounced around on waists and hemlines. I particularly liked matching embroidery and print that appeared in spikes of red and blue across a twosie shorts suit and on both shirt and pencil dresses. Drew Barrymore may well have grown up to to be this well dressed, but this was not how I remember her back in the day.

Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,80s, ,Brighton University, ,catwalk, ,Drew Barrymore, ,ET, ,London Fashion Week, ,Novemto Komo, ,Ong-Oaj Pairam, ,review, ,S/S 2014

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ong-Oaj Pairam: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Preview Interview

ONG-OAJ PAIRAM by Gaarte
ONG-OAJ PAIRAM S/S 2014 preview by Gaarte.

Thai born designer Ong-Oaj Pairam takes to the catwalk this season as part of Fashion Scout at the Freemasons’ Hall. Having trained with the likes of Proenza Schouler and Roland Mouret, he combines precise tailoring with an eye for decorative detail. I caught up with Ong-Oaj for an exclusive preview of the new collection.

Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

You studied at Brighton University (so did I!) What is the best thing about the course these days?
I found the course really tough, and found I had a hard time just keeping my head down. The beauty of studying in Brighton is the ability to escape from it all when you need to switch off. You are surrounded by the beautiful countryside and the sea. The aftercare I have got from my tutors has been really valuable and they have been really supportive of me launching my own brand. The friends I made at uni are friends for life: many are taking the day of work for me and chipping in backstage to help with the show.

What three words best describe your style?
Confident, elegant, fun.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

What did you learn from working at Proenza Schouler and Roland Mouret?
Proenza Schouler was only a small company when I started with them so I had to adapt very quickly to various roles. I would be pattern cutting, managing a runway show and running sales all in the same week. I was very lucky that Jack and Lazaro exposed me to everything. New York is also great place for people watching, and because I saw people making really brave yet sophisticated choices in what to wear it helped me develop my own style. Roland Mouret helped me refine my pattern cutting skills: he is a master at the body conscious dress. I learnt that simpler design is often harder to achieve yet just as impactful.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Spring Summer '14 Preview Collection by Rose Crees
Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014 Preview by Rose Crees.

How have you translated the idea of Drew Barrymore’s character in ET into a fashion collection? It sounds most intriguing. 
Haha, inspiration comes in the most extraordinary forms. Gertie (Drew Barrymore’s character) inspired me in many ways. Initially I emulated her childish curiosity in the creative process, exaggerating what is exciting and removing all the usual rules. She’s one tough cookie, despite her age, and I admired her strength. Without giving too much away, there are lots of cues to her character in the collection, including fabric choices, patterns, colour and perspectives. (Although there’s no gingham cowgirl uniforms or cut out bed sheet in this collection… yet…)
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013 by Zoe Gotts
Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014 preview by Zoe Gotts.

Why is it so important to you to print on British textiles, and where do you get this done?
We have so many skilled factories and teams in Britain and there is so much talent, yet it’s very easy to get work done overseas to save on cost. You miss out on a wealth of local talent, craft and inspiration if you save a few pennies by getting work done abroad. All the textiles in this collection were sourced and printed in Britain, and all my embroidery and my shoes have been manufactured here. It’s nice building a relationship with the companies and you learn so much more from the people. 
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

Embroidery was all done by Jenny King and her team, her studio is a five minute walk from my studio and she has a huge portfolio of spectacular embroidered pieces. My shoes were manufactured by Thomas Murphy, who is an incredible designer and has a small workshop in London. The textiles come from various factories, unfortunately they are mainly in Yorkshire so a bit too far for me to bribe them with cup-cakes. Printing is done through the Silk Bureau.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

How has your Thai heritage affected your approach to design? 
My Thai background has mainly affected my approach to business and my work ethic. My parents grew a successful (food) industry from nothing and inspired me to work very hard and achieve my dreams. Always start with the end in mind and keep focussed. They are also good at making sure I keep my business head on.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Brighton University, ,Drew Barrymore, ,ET, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gertie, ,interview, ,Jenny King, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ong-Oaj Pairam, ,Pop PR, ,preview, ,Proenza Schouler, ,Roland Mouret, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Silk Bureau, ,Thai, ,Thomas Murphy, ,Zoe Gotts

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