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Amelia’s Magazine | Pam Hogg: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

We waited for almost an hour outside Freemasons’ Hall due to the usual buzz which surrounded the Pam Hogg S/S 2014 catwalk show at Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week. The rain came and went a few times – the opening and closing umbrellas not quite sheltering the fashionable kids queuing – but as ever it was worth the wait! Once inside, I squeezed tightly in between a lot of other keen bloggers at the photographers’ end and we all laughed and joked, merrily cooperating with each other in working out our collective positioning for optimum shots. Those in the front rows near us also seemed to be in great spirits, a few of them refreshingly slouching in their chairs and sporting messed up hair, torn jeans and casual wear.

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

The show titled ‘Future Past: War & Peace: Past Future’ was presented in different sections, sometimes with gaps so long between them we thought it was over at least twice before the actual end. First came World War II nurses gradually merging into latex clad ones and then transforming into beauties wearing the trademark Pam Hogg geometrical catsuits with wonderful bird themed and floral headpieces added on top. I absolutely adored the theatrical interlude ballet performance of a Little-Bo-Peep-esque ballerina who was full of the joy of life, immediately followed by a trembling, slowly walking black bride holding a crutch. In this show full of contradictions between life and death I found it entertaining that the final characters should be scantily dressed ladies in folded tulle. What a delightful experience!

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Antonia Parker

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 Catwalk photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Pam Hogg S/S 2014. All photography by Maria Papadimitriou.

Written by Maria Papadimitriou on Wednesday October 2nd, 2013 10:02 am

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,ballet, ,Catsuits, ,Death, ,Dom & Ink, ,Fashion Scout, ,florals, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Future Past: War & Peace: Past Future, ,headpieces, ,Latex, ,Lizzie Donegan, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lynne Datson, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,New Good Studio, ,Nurses, ,Pam Hogg, ,S/S 2014, ,Theatrical, ,World War II, ,xplusyequals, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu

Who cares if womenswear is wearable? As a gent, sickness I certainly don’t. Hair stylist to the stars, Charlie Le Mindu opened the On|Off shows yesterday – winning zero points for wearability, but a whopping 10 out of 10 for wow factor.

Charlie has been styling hair for shoots and shows for ages now, but his first catwalk show, as part of Blow Presents, was only last year. In the six months between then and now, he’s had time to polish his wares, and this time we had an even deeper delve into his psyche…

Illustration by Maryanne Oliver

With the sound of church bells welcoming a funeral cortege, the first model appeared with a giant, jewel-encrusted cross atop her sleek black wig. Wearing a most provocative outfit made of lace, Le Mindu’s pieces lie somewhere between your wildest dreams and your darkest nightmares.

As the pounding music kicked in, with screams of ‘CHARLIE” peppered in the track, the stream of models slowly sauntered down the catwalk, expressionless and lost in their own thoughts. The outfits became racier – with one model, wearing a huge hair-trimmed construction, having little but a thick pony tail to hide her modesty.

While Charlie’s SS 2010 show was all about the blonde, AW 2010 was definitely all about black. Black, black black. Black lace, black hair, black shoes and black knickers. The use of any other hues would have ruined the drama of fashion’s favourite colour.

The most prominent theme was undoubtedly death, with crucifixes, ashen skin and hair/head pieces influenced by the mantilla. Whilst some might find Le Mindu’s creations a little on the silly side, the craftsmanship, attention to detail and range of techniques he employs are outstanding. He’s comparable to the few designers who really push the boundaries, and, like dearly beloved McQueen, he toys with raw and emotive subjects. And when it’s not hair, it’s stoles with cuddly-toy heads or bird feathers.

Amongst a hell of a lot of designers who’ve taken to playing it safe in these turbulent financial times, thank GOD for Charlie Le Mindu*.

*Except, if that’s real fur you’re using Charlie, please don’t. It’s the 21st century, and there really isn’t ANY need. Thanks.

Written by Matt Bramford on Saturday February 20th, 2010 10:26 pm

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Death, ,Hair, ,London Fashion Week, ,onoff

Amelia’s Magazine | Alexandra Groover: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Presentation Review

Alexandra Groover AW 2012 by Dana Bocai

Alexandra Groover A/W 2012 by Dana Bocai

On the evening of Friday 17th February at London Fashion Week, I went to St Giles In The Fields Church in Holborn to watch Alexandra Groover’s A/W 2012 collection presented through a short film called DEATH. Since I attended Show Studio’s exhibition Fashion Revolution at Somerset House in 2009 I have developed a keen interest in fashion films and the way in which more and more fashion designers choose to show their work via this medium. DEATH was the final instalment in Groover’s trilogy of short films, following two previous ones titled BIRTH and LIFE.

Alexandra Groover AW12 by Paul Phung altar view

Unfortunately as I walked into the dark church to take my seat I was informed I could not take photos, which did make sense as I am sure the choice of venue played some part in the atmosphere Alexandra Groover wished to create around the viewing of her film. There is a sense of reverence in most of us, I think, when we enter a religious building – whether we are religious or not – and getting properly into that respectful state was appropriate for an audience about to watch characters exiting this world.

Alexander Groover AW 2012 by Lizzie Mary Cullen

Alexander Groover A/W 2012 by Lizzie Mary Cullen

Alexandra Groover AW12 by Paul Phung Inesa and Barrington De La Roche

In the short film DEATH the two protagonists were artists and married couple Inesa Vaiciute De La Roche and Barrington De La Roche of Dark Theatre, who are both very striking in themselves and as a duo, their age difference creating a beautiful contrast. Indeed the looks of Barrington De La Roche – something close to Sir Christopher Lee in The Lord of The Rings, with long grey hair and dark, strong eyes, but without the long beard – was one of the most fascinating things I took away with me from the evening. The fact that this otherworldly being was walking around and chatting whilst serving wine during the film screenings was also quite entertaining.

Alexandra Groover AW12 by Paul Phung

Alexandra Groover AW 2012 by Deborah Moon

Alexandra Groover A/W 2012 by Deborah Moon

The video was a ritual, taking place also in a church, during which a man and a woman were slowly led towards the altar in a dream-like state surrounded by what looked like illuminated blue petals on the floor and then reddish fairy lights on their bodies. These glowing flower forms reminded me of the quote by Edvard Munch at the opening page of the booklet for this season’s presentation which read ‘from my rotting body, flowers shall grow and I am in them and that is eternity’. As the characters reached the altar, death figures searched them up and down and then assisted them into an embrace and a kiss. At the culmination of the film there was a large figure placed against the window behind the altar extending its two arms like wings. Wing-like extensions of fabric were also wrapped around the man and the woman about to die, as if to unite them forever.

Alexandra Groover AW12 by Paul Phung

Alexandra Groover AW 2012 by Geiko Louve

Alexandra Groover A/W 2012 by Geiko Louve

The first image that emerged in my mind when I saw Alexandra Groover’s A/W 2012 collection was that of Death in Ingmar Bergman’s film The Seventh Seal. Her signature all-black hoods and winged drawstring garments worn with jersey ponchos, surcoat tops, tutelary skirts and black leggings definitely have something medieval about them – especially when seen in an ecclesiastical context.

Alexandra Groover AW12 by Paul Phung

Alexandra Groover AW12 by Paul Phung shoes

For the shoes in the collection Alexandra Groover collaborated for the third time with London footwear designer Benjamin John Hall, the soundtrack was created by musician Dave.i.d and the film was directed by Gabriel Gettman.

Photography by Paul Phung.

Written by Maria Papadimitriou on Monday March 5th, 2012 2:45 pm

Categories ,Alexandra Groover, ,Altar, ,Barrington De La Roche, ,Benjamin John Hall, ,Birth, ,Church, ,Dana Bocai, ,Dark Theatre, ,Dave.i.d, ,Death, ,Deborah Moon, ,Edvard Munch, ,Fashion Film, ,Fashion films, ,footwear, ,Geiko Louve, ,Holborn, ,Inesa De La Roche, ,Ingmar Bergman, ,Life, ,Lizzie Mary Cullen, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,medieval, ,Paul Phung, ,Show Studio, ,Sir Christopher Lee, ,Somerset House, ,Sort Film, ,St.Giles-In-The-Fields, ,The Lord of the Rings, ,The Seventh Seal, ,Trilogy

Amelia’s Magazine | Album Review: Get Well Soon – Sarabeth Tucek

SARABETH TUCEK BY CHANDRA VIOLA 1
Illustration by Chandra Viola

This morning I woke up sick – emotionally and physically sick. And upset with myself, cheap because I knew that partly it was my own fault. The early spring sun and the frizzy breeze that would invite everybody else to go out and enjoy the fresh air just didn’t work for me. And in this antithesis of moods between me and the environment outside my room, tadalafil I put on Sarabeth Tucek’s Get Well Soon. And for the first time (despite having listened to it for so long since I got the pre-release in the post) I appreciated it fully.

The second album of the Florida-born, buy information pills Brooklyn-based actress-turned-singer is a therapeutic album indeed. After the success of her self-titled debut two years ago, the fragile songstress got overwhelmed by the fame and things started to precipitate. And apparently the death of the father made her touch the bottom. But music came into help and rescued her from the dark abysses of depression. Music as self-therapy, then. But despite the introspectiveness of the album, the 12 tracks that form the narrative of Get Well Soon address to every soul that can empathise with them, and their message has a healing power for everybody who’s open to let it in. Easy comparisons come to mind when listening to Get Well Soon – Cat Power, Neil Young, Big Star and even The Breeders, just to name a few. But there’s something truly unique about Sarabeth Tucek, that may lie in the genuineness of her grief that transpires from the notes and shades of her voice and hits the heart.

SARABETH TUCEK BY CHANDRA VIOLA 3
Illustration by Chandra Viola (website under construction)

The opening track ‘The Wound and The Bow’ is a little prelude to the album while ‘Wooden’ truly sets the mood for the whole record, with its enchant of mournful games of chords gently plucked that intertwine with Sarabeth’s bittersweet voice until it opens in a warm old school rock anthem Pink Floyd would be proud of. ‘A View’ is another little gem of melanchonic sweetness. Voluptas dolendi, the Latins would say. ‘You and I, we share a view’ the lyrics go. And I look at the view through my window – a cheeky cloud attempts to cover the sun, but a ray pierces through and I wonder whether ‘he’ is enjoying the same spectacle from wherever he might be in this moment. When ‘The Fireman’ – a autobiographical ballad describing a dream Sarabeth had about her father – kicks in with its more upbeat tempo, I start thinking about my own dad. And I suddenly realise I miss him and his funny grumpiness that has always got on my nerves causing one too many unnecessary arguments.

State I Am In.

‘Things Left Behind’ is in my opinion one of the most heart-breaking songs of the entire album, a sadness that’s hard to bear – ‘you wished yourself right off the map into the air / and if I’m looking hard, you’re above me now / hanging on some little star’ – but Sarabeth’s voice gets so gentle and touching that it makes it impossible not to listen to it 3 times in a row. ‘State I Am In’ opens with languid droney guitars, another classic rock tribute. It’s one of the most upbeat tracks of the whole album, and seems to prelude to the songwriter’s personal resurrection from Hell, which is confirmed by the splendid ‘Rising’ – ‘through a break in the window I can see something is shining’. I can see it too.

SARABETH TUCEK BY CHANDRA VIOLA 2
Illustration by Chandra Viola

This morning I was sick, I said. And I knew that part of the blame for this was mine. Illness is all about inner pain. And the more you mourn about your pain, the worst it gets. Sometimes you only need to recognise your faults and absolve yourself to feel better. ‘I knew I was sad / I recognised it was bad / but now looking back / I see my mind, it was cracked’, the lyrics of the startling Get Well Soon go, accompanying me to the final redemption. The sun is caressing my cheeks through the window. I open it, and let the fresh air come in. The birds sing along the last notes of the eponymous closing track. I jump on my bicycle and go to join my friends at the park. I’m well now. Thank you, Sarabeth.

Get Well Soon music video

Sarabeth Tucek will play at Camden Crawl and will headline a show in London at the Slaughtered Lamb on May 19th. She’s also beein added to the bill of End Of The Road Festival in September and also Oxfordshire’s Wood Festival in May. Get Well Soon will be out on Sonic Cathedral on 11th April 2011. A gem not to be missed.

Written by Laura Lotti on Friday April 8th, 2011 12:38 pm

Categories ,album, ,Bob Dylan, ,Brian Jonestown Massacre, ,brooklyn, ,Camden Crawl, ,Chandra Viola, ,Death, ,End of the Road, ,Florida, ,Folk Rock, ,Forgiveness, ,Get Well Soon, ,guitars, ,Music as therapy, ,Pink Floyd, ,Redemption, ,Sarabeth Tucek, ,slaughtered lamb, ,Sonic Cathedral, ,Wood Festival

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