Tribal – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Lug Von Siga: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

Turkish designer Gül Ağış presented her brand Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 collection in the upper halls of Freemasons’ Hall at Fashion Scout on the second day of London Fashion Week. What we saw was an elegant and varied collection that featured evening dresses in luxurious fabrics such as silk crepe, leather and knitwear, as well as some more sportive outfits. The colour palette ranged from black and white to beige, caramel and coral red. Just by looking at Gül Ağış’ S/S 2014 collection one could easily discern influences from her rich cultural and historical heritage. Exposed bellies, see through fabric around hips and low fringed waists all brought to mind images of exotic belly dancers. Three dresses with laced, swirly patterns also reminded me of doilies used as decorations on tables and sofas of Anatolian houses.

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

But, as it often happens at fashion shows, reading the press release revealed an extra, unexpected layer of meaning and intention to the collection. This season Gül Ağış was inspired by populations around the world recently going back to tribal attitudes to express their anger towards the state of the world and the nature of their governments. More specifically she was inspired by the 2013 protests in Turkey started on 28 May 2013, initially to contest the urban development plan for Istanbul’s Taksim Gezi Park. Prints of tribal masks, which are often used in transitional situations and rituals, appeared writ large on tops and dresses. A mask protects, empowers the wearer spiritually and also gives anonymity, so that one can be aggressive and break the rules; thus here this powerful symbol was used beautifully to illustrate the insecurity towards the future felt by the Turkish people.

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Lug Von Siga Catwalk photo by Amelia Gregory SS 2014

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 7

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 6

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Novemto Komo

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory-0023

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 5

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 9

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 10

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 11

Lug Von Siga SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou HAIR

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou 4

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Lug Von Siga Catwalk SS 2014 photo by Amelia Gregory

Lug Von Siga S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory and Maria Papadimitriou.

Written by Maria Papadimitriou on Wednesday September 18th, 2013 7:43 pm

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gül Ağış, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lug Von Siga, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masks, ,Novemto Komo, ,S/S 2014, ,Taksim Gezi Park Protests, ,Tribal, ,Tribal Masks, ,Turkish, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

Amelia’s Magazine | Fyodor Golan: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Fyodor Golan were first to show in the newly created Embankment Galleries showspace, a long thin strip in Somerset House that previously housed the stands and necessitates registering at the front desk in order to get to. A year ago I was most taken by Fyodor Golan‘s first catwalk show at Fashion Scout, and last season they were deserving winners of the Fashion Fringe competition, so I was eager to see what these fine art graduates would do next.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory

Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gaarte.

Welcome to the Machine was inspired by Russian peasantry and aristocratic fashions… marrying tribal styles with extravagant embellishments to great effect. Stepping through a neon pink doorway models wore skater skirted dresses in beetle inspired metallic copper and green, heavy nose rings courtesy of designer Alexandra Druzhinin hanging over their mouths. Insects crawled across the waists of dresses, and the curving lines of their wings were echoed in the finely swept hair slicked to brows. At Fyodor Golan buns were tightly woven into peasant plaits.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory

Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gaarte.

These clothes are not for the faint hearted – there were heavy quilted metallic textures and pleated furls, followed by light as a feather lambswool or swinging tasselled skirts in wintery white. Punchy red provided dazzling relief from darker hues in the form of skater dresses, and my favourite look (in red) featured a sheer bodice with narrow strips of pleating curled over the bosom and shoulders.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory

The finale was preceded by a model who was somewhat inexplicably covered entirely in emerald green glitter – perhaps a reference to beetles too far… This was followed by a stunning pearlised white showpiece, with a weighty golden crown shrouded in netting that also covered the face.

Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory

Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Marta Madaiva Illustrations.

Once again Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman have proved themselves a fashionable proposition to be reckoned with, and I look forward to seeing how their artisanal creativity develops with each new season.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Sunday February 19th, 2012 12:12 am

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Alexandra Druzhinin, ,Aristocracy, ,Beetles, ,Embankment Galleries, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,Fyodor Golan, ,Fyodor Podgorny, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Golan Frydman, ,Green Glitter, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Madaiva Illustrations, ,Metallic, ,Nose Rings, ,peasant, ,Quilting, ,review, ,Russian, ,Somerset House, ,Trace Publicity, ,Tribal, ,Welcome to the Machine

Amelia’s Magazine | Josh & Nicol: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Josh & Nicol LFW A/W 2013 by Sam Parr
Josh & Nicol, LFW A/W 2013 by Sam Parr

Somewhere over the rainbow, namely at Charing Cross Hotel, Josh & Nicol presented their LFW A/W 2013 collection. The Promise of the Rainbow is a colourful collection with inspirations including birds of paradise and the Wizard of Oz. A distinctive rainbow-style fabric dominated the collection and in my mind, the pieces are split into two camps: black, elegant, gothic garments contrasting against bright, green-palette, rainbow prints with a tribal feel. The black pieces sport conspicuous zips with sections of floaty, translucent fabric. In some of the garments these two different threads meet and the fresh, colourful print is mixed with the sexier black, tying the pieces together.

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013

Held in the Betjeman Suite of the Charing Cross Hotel, the venue was, although a day too late, Valentine’s Day appropriate, with candles leading the way through the corridor and up the stairs. Named after a former Poet Laureate the room came complete with chandeliers, marble pillars and a sculpted ceiling, which provided a stark contrast to the goth-rock feel of the black garments and the flamboyant prints of the rainbow inspired togs that made up this collection.

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013 by Louise Smith
Josh & Nicol, LFW A/W 2013 by Louise Smith

Josh & Nicol is a luxury fashion brand established in 2010, Ufuoma Ekpecham is the brands’ Creative Director and believes that “there is nothing more beautiful and sophisticated than a woman that dresses to suit her body shape.” The designer went on to start the label after winning the Planet Africa Red Carpet Dress Challenge in Toronto.

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013

There is free champagne, orange juice and wine, which is handed to me in my front row seat. After a day of queues and bobbing heads blocking my view, this is a welcome change. The show starts late, and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly. I chat to a friend of the designer who has made her way all the way from Brussels to attend, and will leave the next day. This show feels much more personal to me, close-knit friends and family seems to make up the audience, as well as journalists.

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013

There are references to Baum‘s The Wonderful Wizard of Oz in the program and although initially I couldn’t see any sign of Dorothy, the yellow brick road, or red glittery pumps, I speculate that the collection has drawn inspiration from other elements of the story. The green print is perhaps a nod to the Emerald City and the green-tinted glasses that the characters must wear to enter. If I remember correctly, in the original novel, the Wizard and Dorothy fashion a balloon from green silk, which perhaps could be something the designer has taken inspiration from for the colourful print design. Or maybe, the film version with Judy Garland‘s rendition of Over the Rainbow was part of the inspiration to inject colour and life into the fabrics Either way, this collection whisked me away from the bustling streets of London, like the cyclone whisked away Dorothy. Sadly though, reciting, “there’s no place like home,” didn’t work for me, and after this show finished, I had an hour and a half train journey to get back to Bath, my first day of London Fashion Week over with a colourful and stylish bang.

Josh & Nicol LFW AW 2013 by Louise Smith
Josh & Nicol, LFW A/W 2013 by Louise Smith

All photography by Jessica Cook

Written by Jessica Cook on Monday February 25th, 2013 12:44 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Betjeman Suite, ,bright prints, ,Catwalk review, ,Charing Cross, ,gothic, ,Jessica Cook, ,Josh & Nicol, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Smith, ,Sam Parr, ,Tribal, ,Ufuoma Ekpecham

Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review, the winners

Flaminia Saccucci by Laura Warecki
Flaminia Saccucci by Laura Warecki.

Central Saint Martins showed for the last time at York Hall on Tuesday 31st May. I sat next to someone from L’Oreal – the principle course sponsors who fund the yearly awards show. There’s no wonder that Central Saint Martins fashion students are able to put on a professional standard graduate show, case what with the huge amount of monetary help that the course attracts. But there’s a reason why Central Saint Martins attracts the cash – the standard of design on show for 2011 was unremittingly high and in the next few blog posts I’ll pick out my favourites from an extremely talented bunch. First up, malady though – the winners.

Momo Wang by Karolina Burdon.

Momo Wang was the very deserving joint second runner up in an awards ceremony presented by Hilary Alexander and delivered by Meadham Kirchhoff and Sarah Burton. Or as Hilary put it: “You know Sarah; wedding dress, Pippa Middleton’s bum, need I say more?”

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Momo Wang. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Her playful print presentation featured smiling girls with pigtails and balloons, bubble machines, dragon headgear and a mish mash of tribal influences thrown together in a unique and inspiring way. Super talented and with a refreshing take on the typical catwalk show.

Ivan Curia Nunes by Gareth A Hopkins.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ivan Curia Nunes. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Ivan Curia Nunes.

Ivan Curia Nunes also came joint second, with his stylish sandy menswear, definitely one of the most instantly wearable collections on the catwalk.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia Gregory Nicholas-Aburn-by-Victoria-Haynes
Nicholas Aburn by Victoria Haynes.

I hadn’t been so impressed with the cutting in Nicholas Aburn‘s collection, but maybe the first runner up was just unlucky enough to have been lumbered with the most gargantuan models in the show.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Nicholas Aburn.

He completely won me over by the time he had walked to the end of the catwalk, smiling like a little imp as the models towered over him in their 80s influenced tailored striping and printed outfits, topped off with some eye-catching wide rimmed hats.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia Gregory Flaminia-Saccucci-by-Rebecca-Elves
Flaminia Saccucci by Rebecca Elves.

First prize went to Flaminia Saccucci, who showed an extremely confident and unusual latex printed floral collection in shades of pink, green and yellow featuring tyre printed legs that continued racing over waistlines and across bosoms.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Flaminia Saccucci.

Sadly none of these students appears to have a website. Since this is a gripe that I fear I may have to repeat far too often over the next few weeks I’ll say it just this once during my reports from the Central Saint Martins show. Pffffff.

My next blog will be online soon because there was plenty more to get excited about from 40 graduating students.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday June 7th, 2011 2:45 pm

Categories ,80s, ,Awards, ,Central Saint Martins, ,CSM, ,Flaminia Saccucci, ,florals, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gareth Hopkins, ,Graduate Shows, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Ivan Curia Nunes, ,Karolina Burdon, ,L’Oreal, ,Laura Warecki, ,Meadham Kirchhoff, ,Meadham Kirchoff, ,menswear, ,Momo Wang, ,Pippa Middleton, ,print, ,Rebecca Elves, ,Sarah Burton, ,Tribal, ,Victoria Haynes, ,York Hall

Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Womenswear tailoring.

Tracey Wong CSM by Laura Frame
Tracey Wong by Laura Frame.

Womenswear tailoring at Central Saint Martins centred around a classical monochrome base exemplified by James Nolan, malady who opened the whole show with a high collared nanny wielding a giant old fashioned pram. Models with pin rolled hair were lent a strict air with shiny tight leather gloves.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-James Nolan photography by Amelia Gregory
James Nolan. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Mathilde le Gagneur showed a floaty commercial collection of tie-waisted garments to traditional church music. I liked the twirly number at the end.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia Gregory
Mathilde le Gagneur.

Li Wai Yin was all about the block coloured tailoring. Pointy hats and overlong sleeves emphasised the strong minimalist shapes.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Li Wai Yin photography by Amelia Gregory
Li Wai Yin.

Khrystyna Fomenko presented a strong and highly wearable collection based on golden and pastel shades with wide palazzo trousers and multi height hem lines. We did an interview with Khrystyna Fomenko back in 2009 – why not take a gander and see just how much her style has changed since then!

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia Gregory
Khrystyna Fomenko.

Hannah Barr showed flouncy pleated and backless numbers in lacy blues and coppery knits.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Hannah Barr photography by Amelia Gregory
Hannah Barr.

Tracey Wong incorporated jutting beaded ornamental panels onto pastel and black dresses of intriguing proportions.

Tracey Wong by Laura Frame.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia Gregory
Tracey Wong.

Christopher Tai’s collection was a bizarre ensemble of loose fitting pieces and unflattering wired accessories that curled up the arm.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Christopher Tai photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Tai.

Satoshi Kuwata did ruched and draped pastels with interesting hem lines and button detailing. A very strong collection.

Satoshi Kuwata by Casey Otremba.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Satoshi Kuwata photography by Amelia Gregory
Satoshi Kuwata. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday June 9th, 2011 12:56 pm

Categories ,Casey Otremba, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Christopher Tai, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Hannah Barr, ,James Nolan, ,Khrystyna Fomenko, ,Laura Frame, ,Li Wai Yin, ,Mathilde le Gagneur, ,Satoshi Kuwata, ,tailoring, ,Tracey Wong, ,Womenswear, ,York Hall

Amelia’s Magazine | Frieze Art Fair 2011 Trends: Spiritual, Tribal and Animist Art

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-David Altmejd
Next in my round up of Frieze Art Fair 2011 trends: examples of the spiritual, buy more about tribal and animist inspired art that dominates the current global art scene. Proof, decease if ever if it was needed, of a struggle with meaning in our consumer driven world.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-David Altmejd
One of the first things I saw were these weird heads by David Altmejd, which mix elements of tribal and ancient cultures with recognisably modern features (love the ponytail).

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-David Brian Smith

David Brian Smith‘s Great Expectations – We Were Silhouettes went for a quasi Christian angle – the lone man amongst his psychedelic sheep. At Carl Freedman Gallery.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-Evgeny Antufiev
Russian artist Evgeny Antufiev worked with stitched textiles to create these strange beasts, crossing the alien with the tribal. At Regina Gallery.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-Stas Volyazlovsky
Fellow Russian artist Stas Volyazlovsky crossed the esoteric with the political in his huge textile art.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-Georg Kargl Gallery
I don’t know who created this but it caught my eye at the Georg Kargl Gallery, Vienna: a strange floating head.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-Isa Genzken
At Hauser & Wirth Isa Genzken showed Geburt (Birth) – a disturbing quasi human mannequin prostrate on the floor.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-Broadway 1602 New York
Broadway 1602 New York was home to this equally odd dolls’ house, complete with eye stuck in vagina and silver penis seeping beads. Nice.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-Patrick Jackson
Two bearded men in repose by Patrick Jackson at the Francois Ghebaly Gallery, LA. Religious ecstasy, or something more sinister?

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-Andra Ursata
Shown in my previous blog – Andra Ursata‘s flattened woman, Ramiken Crucible.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-The Breeder Athens
Also loved this collaged wall decal – artist unknown. Decorating the stand for The Breeder Athens.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-391
Also at The Breeder, this is a section of a huge painting. Hanging clowns and others, for who knows what indiscretion. Disturbing but also strangely beautiful.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-Rodrigo Torres
Rodrigo Torres planted his contemplative goat man at the junction of a busy thoroughfare.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-Zhang Xiaogang
Asian artists are grossly under represented at Frieze. Zhang Xiaogang‘s neon baby lay on a slab in a mirrored artwork – a sacrificial reflection perhaps?

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-Raqib Shaw
Raqib Shaw produced intricate decorative pieces that featured dragon mermaids, multi headed snakes and mysterious orbs.

Frieze Art Fair 2011 review-Mark Alexander detail
All Watched Over by Machines of Infinite Loving Grace by Mark Alexander took a more painterly approach with an intricate oil that was clearly influenced by Hieronymus Bosch.

Viewing this art in the context of Frieze, one can’t help but wonder where exactly all this soul searching will lead…

Take a peak at my round up of typographic trends and also read my full review of Frieze 2011.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday October 20th, 2011 4:38 pm

Categories ,2011, ,All Watched Over by Machines of Infinite Loving Grace, ,Andra Ursata, ,Animist, ,Asian, ,Athens, ,Broadway 1602, ,Carl Freedman Gallery, ,collage, ,Consumer, ,David Altmejd, ,David Brian Smith, ,Evgeny Antufiev, ,Francois Ghebaly Gallery, ,Frieze Art Fair, ,Geburt (Birth), ,Georg Kargl Gallery, ,Goat Man, ,Great Expectations – We Were Silhouettes, ,Hauser & Wirth, ,Hieronymus Bosch, ,Isa Genzken, ,Los Angeles, ,Mannequin, ,Mark Alexander, ,new york, ,Patrick Jackson, ,Ramiken Crucible., ,Raqib Shaw, ,Regina Gallery, ,review, ,Rodrigo Torres, ,Russian, ,spiritual, ,Stas Volyazlovsky, ,textiles, ,The Breeder, ,trends, ,Tribal, ,Vienna, ,Zhang Xiaogang

Amelia’s Magazine | Lug Von Siga: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Similar Posts:

Amelia’s Magazine | Fyodor Golan: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Similar Posts:

Amelia’s Magazine | Josh & Nicol: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Similar Posts:

Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review, the winners

Similar Posts:

Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Womenswear tailoring.

Similar Posts:

Amelia’s Magazine | Frieze Art Fair 2011 Trends: Spiritual, Tribal and Animist Art

Similar Posts: