Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jacob Kimmie

Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska
Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska.

I missed the Jacob Kimmie show last season but the fabulous cream and black elegance of his sophisticated collection for A/W 2010 is still etched into my mind.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW SS12 Jacob Kimmie by Kristina Vasiljeva
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Jacob Kimmie‘s new collection was called Rhapsody and featured a huge number of beautifully constructed garments in signature monochrome, seek but this time with variation in the form of a grey dove print that appeared on white and black grounds to equal effect. Flocks of doves spread across skirts or down tiered chiffon dresses. Taking a brave step away from monochrome Jacob Kimmie also showcased the dove print in coy red.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob-Kimmie-(SS-2012)-by-Barb-Royal
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Ah, clinic chiffon. There has been an awful lot of exposed nipple action this LFW and Jacob Kimmie‘s show was no exception. High necked Victorian school marm blouses with slouchy puff sleeves were given the sheer treatment – if only the women likely to afford these garments had such perky boobs. On other blouses bib like ruffles covered the bosom or a dapper rose appeared at the neck. Slim mesh panels up the sides and down the sleeves of long dresses were particularly clever. The contrast of sexiness and primness was emphasised with simple allusions to religion and virginity – a cross around the neck or a barely there netted cape.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

The show closed with an exposed bride, who sashayed down the catwalk under a diaphanous veil with an empty birdcage swinging at her side. The black models from the show posed in a row at the end of the catwalk as Jacob gave his final bow – as ever an incongruous figure, rotund and cheery in baseball cap, casual t-shirt and shorts – the antithesis of his designs.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

Jacob Kimmie is fast building himself a strong brand that is an alluring combination of prim and sexy. Rhapsody S/S 2012 was a beautiful and wearable collection that should appeal to buyers in spades.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Birdcage, ,Bride, ,Chiffon, ,doves, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grey, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Mesh, ,monochrome, ,Nipples, ,Panels, ,print, ,Religious, ,Rhapsody, ,Ruffles, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sheer, ,Veil, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

KTZ S/S 2014 by Rose Crees

KTZ S/S 2014 by Rose Crees

Since illustrating KTZ‘s striking A/W 2011 collection for Amelia’s Magazine, I have wished there would come a chance to attend a KTZ catwalk show in person. Koji Maruyama and Marjan Pejowski’s S/S 2014 womenswear collection impressed me both visually and intellectually – welcoming the sweeping winds of change whilst looking back at older, wiser traditions – but unfortunately the new structure of the main catwalk space at Somerset House, plus super tight security measures to control the larger audiences it can hold meant that I found myself impossibly struggling for a good spot to capture properly on camera this much anticipated moment. So what better chance for a lavishly illustrated London Fashion Week review!

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson

Carrying on from their S/S 2014 menswear collection’s Arabic influences and extensive use of symbols, KTZ focused again for their S/S 2014 womenswear collection on themes related to spirituality, religious attire and nomadic cultures, highlighting the impact on today’s society by migrating populations. Against the backdrop of an upbeat atmosphere and a soundtrack which included howling winds, fire crackling sounds, wild animal growling and western re-mixes of eastern tunes, we saw burqa-style dresses, billowing capes, floral prints reminiscent of Islamic mosaics and graphic monochrome patterns made up from shapes of stars and pentagons. Black bomber jackets covered in silver hardwear, spiked wrist cuffs and hats as well as bold silver jewellery further added to the general feel of determination and optimism I thought this collection exuded.

KTZ S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

KTZ S/S 2014 by xplusyequals

KTZ S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

KTZ S/S 2014 by Antonia Parker

KTZ S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

KTZ S/S 2014 by Dom & Ink

KTZ S/S 2014 by Gareth A Hopkins

KTZ S/S 2014 by Gareth A Hopkins

KTZ S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

KTZ S/S 2014 by Scott W Mason

KTZ S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

KTZ S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon

KTZ S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

KTZ S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

KTZ S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

KTZ S/S 2014 by Lizzie Donegan at New Good Studio

KTZ S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs

KTZ S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Arabic, ,BFC Tent, ,british fashion council, ,Burqa, ,Claire Kearns, ,deserts, ,Dom & Ink, ,Floral prints, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Karolina Burdon, ,KTZ, ,Lizzie Donegan, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lynne Datson, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,monochrome, ,New Good Studio, ,prints, ,Religious, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Scott W Mason, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Spikes, ,Womenswear, ,xplusyequals

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Amelia’s Magazine | University of Brighton Illustration Graduate Show 2011 Review: Fine Techniques

rocks-katie-scott
You’ve already read about the Collagists and the 80s influenced illustrators right? There was also some exceptional drawing and printmaking at the Brighton Graphic Design and Illustration Graduate Show. Here then is the rest of the best.

Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Katie Scott
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Katie Scott
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Katie Scott
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Katie Scott
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Katie Scott
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Katie Scott
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Katie Scott
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Katie Scott
Katie Scott‘s beautiful work appropriated the look of old fashioned botanical engravings, view but a closer look revealed her imagery to be a little more bizarre and out of this world – strange dinosaur like animals, birds with paws, frog legged hedgehogs. Her work showcased amazing technical drawing ability, as did the following few illustrators. Follow Katie Scott on Twitter.

Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Megan Pearce
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Megan Pearce
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Megan Pearce
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Megan Pearce
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Megan Pearce
Megan Pearce looked towards religion for her richly textured black and white drawings, combining symbolic references to God with visual metaphors of Haitian beliefs.

Sam ashton hoxton view
Sam Ashton Olympic site
Sam Ashton Olympic site
Sam Ashton had done some delightful drawings of deepest darkest Hackney – somehow managing to make this most urban of settings seem gloriously exotic in a swirl of colour and mark making. Many of the local views are being affected by guess what? Why, the Olympic development of course.

bradley jay WOLF
bradley jay Lion
Bradley Jay
Bradley Jay worked in fine black lines to create surreal narrative pictures featuring lions, kings, floating swords and severed paws. Amazing stuff, would love a print for my wall.

Mark Matcham future crufts
Mark Matcham future crufts
Mark Matcham future cruftsBrighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Mark Matcham
I was recommended to keep an eye out for Mark Matcham, who had worked on the theme of a Future Crufts – mutant dogs being the order of the day. I particularly liked his business cards on thin wood.

Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Joseph GoughBrighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Joseph Gough
Joseph Gough was influenced by film noir to create a series of narrative vignettes in stark monochrome.

Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Harry Bloom Teenage Kicks Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Harry Bloom Teenage Kicks Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Harry Bloom Teenage Kicks Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Harry Bloom Teenage Kicks
Loved Harry Bloom‘s intricate narrative drawings and large scale panoramas, with more than a nod to Richard Scarry and ilk. I was particularly taken by his mini book, Teenage Kicks, featuring teenagers in all their angst with amusing captions.

Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Noriko SatoBrighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Noriko SatoBrighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Noriko Sato
Noriko Sato‘s sign said Hello, Bowwow, Meow, And the earth rotates. How very enigmatic! I loved her little miniature characters and tiny portraits of animals.

Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Miho ToyookaBrighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-

Miho Toyooka was influenced by the worlds of mysticism and rituals to create a constantly shifting kaleidoscope that was viewed from above – I couldn’t stop returning to see where the images went next. Most engaging.

Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Thomas BirdBrighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Thomas BirdBrighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Thomas Bird
Thomas Bird played with paper to create colourful sculpture and sets. Follow Thomas Bird on Twitter.

Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Tom Duxbury
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Tom Duxbury
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Tom Duxbury
Brighton University illustration graduate show 2011-Tom Duxbury
Tom Duxbury was inspired by Shirley Jackson‘s novel We Have Always Lived in a Castle, to create two tone narrative illustrations with a hint of Rob Ryan to them.

Still to come… Best of Graphic Design.

Categories ,2011, ,Botanical Engravings, ,Bradley Jay, ,Brighton Graphic Design and Illustration Graduate Show, ,Fine Line, ,Future Crufts, ,Graduate Show, ,hackney, ,Harry Bloom, ,installation, ,Joseph Gough, ,Katie Scott, ,Mark Matcham, ,Megan Pearce, ,Miho Toyooka, ,Noriko Sato, ,Papercut, ,Religious, ,Richard Scarry, ,rob ryan, ,Rochelle School, ,Sam Ashton, ,Shirley Jackson, ,Teenage Kicks, ,Thomas Bird, ,Tom Duxbury

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