SS15 – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | SANKUANZ presented by GQ China: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

SANKUANZ S/S 2015 by Gareth A Hopkins

After two seasons representing Kay Kwok, GQ China switch their attentions to Xiamen-based designer Shangguan Zhe, better known as SANKUANZ. As is often the case, I knew nothing about this up-and-coming label, but a debut London Collections: Men showcase is probably a good place to start.

SANKUANZ S/S 2015 by Chris Sav

A combination of an exodus to Milan and a debut catwalk show meant that inside Victoria House wasn’t exactly heaving. Staff rushed to seat everybody as near to the front as possible, so I took a spot on the front row despite having a standing ticket.

All photography by Matt Bramford

The first dozen or so looks were strong, but I felt like I’d seen it before. Long white lab coats had been embellished with embroidered black designs, inspired by Russian prison tattoos, ranging from obscure slogans to graphic phalluses. These coats were a fusion between 18th century frock coats and modern day sportswear. Translucent crew neck tops, crisp shirts and mesh hoodies, all in white, were styled underneath, flashing mouthpieces were used and Raf Simons-esque futuristic footwear completed the looks. Some pretty silly brightly-coloured fur shorts were the only break from white.

During a short pause afterwards I thought, ‘yes, I quite like it, some wearable pieces, a bit small as a collection perhaps’ and some other nonsense. Then, almost from nowhere, a model appeared wearing what I can only describe as a giant pair of brightly coloured papier-mâché claw hands. ‘Oh, here we go’ I thought to myself as I frantically tried to take pictures and pick my jaw up from the floor.

Without visual aids I couldn’t tell you a single item of clothing that the models were wearing during this ‘latter stage’ of the show, but I could remember enormous polka-dot lobster claws, Popeye-like forearms and gigantic acid-painted hands making an ‘OK’ sign. It was like a ludicrous tribute to Emoji and I enjoyed every bloody minute.

Looking back on the collection, these gimmicks were paired with some pretty decent garments. Black sweatshirts made more of the Russian criminal emblems and the frock coat in black was less lab-coat and more wearable, but that isn’t what I’ll remember this collection for.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday June 24th, 2014 5:52 pm

Categories ,catwalk, ,Chris Sav, ,fashion, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,GQ China, ,LCMSS2015, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Popeye, ,Raf Simons, ,review, ,SANKUANZ, ,Shangguan Zhe, ,SS15, ,Style, ,Victoria House

Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

vita gottlieb - llfw - ss15 - jenny robins
Vita Gottlieb by Jenny Robins.

She may only have been creating collections for a few seasons, but Vita Gottlieb has already honed her look to great effect. For her S/S 2015 collection Microworld Vita found inspiration at the bottom of the sea; in the peachy hues of coral reefs and the creature filled waters of the far deep. A sensation of floating was achieved by the use of gossamer light asymmetric panels of georgette, juxtaposed against graphical black blocks on slouchy tees and swing skirts. Signature prints were created from the swirling botanical illustrations of Ernst Haeckel and worked well with stripes of contrast bias binding and delicate layered waist ties. Lacey laser cut gloves, smokey eyes, high hair and spike heeled metallic sandals gave a glamorous edge to everyday pieces, as Vita Gottlieb once more successfully married the avante grade with the wearable.

Scroll to the bottom to watch the video of the show.

Vita Gottlieb by Karolina Burdon.

Vita Gottlieb SS15 by Isabelle Mattern.

Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Vita Gottlieb SS15 show video from Vita Gottlieb on Vimeo.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday October 10th, 2014 4:11 pm

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Ernst Haeckel, ,Fashion Scout, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,Jenny Robins, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Microworld, ,S/S 2015, ,SS15, ,Vita Gottlieb

Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Kartal: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Zeynep Kartal by Sine Skau.

Turkish born Zeynep Kartal is one of the new influx of foreign born designers who are bringing a little red carpet glamour to the Fashion Scout catwalks. Her SS15 catwalk show opened with zingy lemon yellow floor sweeping gowns – backless, strapless, sheer, asymmetric glamour offset with barely there make up and simple locks worn cascading down the back. Zeynep Kartal’s Efflorescence collection featured plenty of floaty dresses covered in subtle rose pink and white florals inspired by the classic novel The Secret Garden, and for those preferring a darker palette there were boxy dove grey satin tops embellished with beaded starbursts and pleated georgette dresses with plunging necklines and cinched-in waists. A glorious rose encrusted A-line dress made for a playful finale from the Manchester based designer.

Scroll down to watch a video of the collection.

Zeynep Kartal Spring Summer 2015, Illustration by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard for Amelia's Magazine
Zeynep Kartal SS15 by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax of Illustrated Moodboard.

Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday October 11th, 2014 6:10 pm

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Efflorescence, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Scout, ,floral, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Glamour, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,London Fashion Week, ,manchester, ,Red carpet, ,Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, ,S/S 2015, ,Sine Skau, ,SS15, ,The Secret Garden, ,Turkish, ,Zeynep Kartal

Amelia’s Magazine | MOSCHINO: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Moschino S/S 2015 by Krister Selin

Moschino was the hottest ticket during London Collections: Men, and the 300-strong queue outside Lindley Hall was testament to that. Inside, the wall had been branded with a huge Moschino decal; cameras whirled above our heads on enormous tripods. The noise was deafening. Everybody seemed a bit sexier and they all had Moschino french fries iPhone cases.

My naivety, and inability to attend fashion weeks other than London-based ones, meant that I felt like I had been transported to a Versace show in Milan in the 1990s. My absolute favourite kind of fashion is trashy Italian fashion – the style of unashamed glamour that the Italians do so well, introduced in the 1980s and infamous in the 1990s. It brought us supermodels, leather chaps on the runway and more ghetto gold than you can shake a stick at. So when I found out that Moschino were to show at London Collections: Men, in our great city for the first time, I knew I’d bend over backwards to get in. Luckily I didn’t have to do that.

Moschino S/S 2015 by Krister Selin

Nobody seemed to be getting in from outside, and as I stood next to a woman dressed head-to-toe in that ridiculous, brilliant McDonald’s inspired ensemble, I envisaged a mass scrum and hours of waiting. I was surprised the show began a mere 20 minutes late. What happened after this is a bit of a blur, the atmosphere was so electric that I think I may have blacked out from excitement at one point.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Dishy models that must have been shipped in from Italy, or perhaps paradise, strode out to the sounds of a 1990s playlist. The first section turned soft drinks and pop culture into suits, t-shirts and swimwear. Then came brightly coloured tops, sweatshirts and bikinis emblazoned with enormous Moschino type.

Chanel 2.55 knock offs with gold Moschino letters replacing the interlocking C’s eveloped one model (above), one of my favourite looks from this show.

Next, on the World Cup bandwagon and a 1990s tip, models wore prints that were happy hardcore smiley faces featuring international flags. More 90s ephemera came in the form of oversized sweatshirts, nylon bomber jackets and black mesh pieces, with a yellow tailcoat tuxedo thrown in for good measure, naturally.

Then came a sort of homage to a range of luxury fashion houses – a mock Louis Vuitton monogram print appeared on jackets and trousers, the LVs replaced with serif Ms. A ‘Fauxchino‘ motif, added to my wishlist, looked so trashy that it could have been bought from a seaside market.

Want to dress like an Hermès carrier bag? Well now you can with Moschino‘s bright orange denim jacket and jeans with black Moschino logo strips. If Hermès isn’t your bag, perhaps a Versace-esque black and gold suit will suffice?

Rhinestone dollar signs and logo sweaters completed this collection:

I love the shocking, shameless abuse of other designer brands to glorious end. That’s a somewhat difficult sentence to type amidst outrageous alleged cases of high street copycats and even fashion powerhouses ripping off London designers, but Jeremy Scott and the label pull off the plagiarism with such panache that nobody seems to bat an eyelid. This blatant disregard for intellectual property has been at the heart of the brand since Franco Moschino launched his eponymous label in 1983. And, if this collection is anything to go by, Scott is without doubt the best person to take the Moschino crown. I’m praying he brings his army of merry men and women back next year.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday June 27th, 2014 11:18 am

Categories ,1990s, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Gucci, ,Hermés, ,Italian, ,Jeremy Scott, ,LCM, ,LCMSS2015, ,Lindley Hall, ,London Collections Men, ,Louis Vuitton, ,menswear, ,Monogram, ,Moschino, ,pop culture, ,review, ,SS15, ,Swimwear, ,Versace, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Oliver Spencer: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Fiongal Greenlaw

It seemed like every man in London had been squashed into the Old Sorting Office for the Oliver Spencer show last Monday. It was bloody packed. My standing ticket didn’t offer me any privileges, as per, so I did my best to position myself behind the shortest person I could find in the hope of seeing anything at all. The lights dimmed and out marched a drumming band who, with huge grins on their faces, energetically played a samba beat for the models to walk to.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Kate Sloan

Oliver Spencer‘s mantra is if it ain’t broke don’t fix it and this was another season of summery basics, smart tailoring and enticing prints. Cropped jackets were worn with longer t-shirts, featuring graphic designs. Rolled-up trouser legs revealed bare ankles.

Fitted blazers replicated the floral patterns of matching shirts, teamed with contrasting shorts and cravats. Boxy overcoats and suede jackets in ochre gave a 1970s feel; luxe blues and greens provided a modern counterbalance.

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Fiongal Greenlaw

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Kate Sloan

Soft linen jackets and shirts provided a welcome break from the more rigid tailored pieces and I longed to be wearing a loose, floaty Oliver Spencer tunic than the thick t-shirt and jacket that I’d opted for. Checked blazers in vibrant orange, nautical stripes and light knitwear came next, accessorised with retro shades, loafers and large luggage. Whilst not the most outlandish collection, it provided a vast range of wearable separates that would be difficult to get wrong in any combination.

For the finale, the drummers switched to a more uptempo tune as a busty carnival dancer led out the models; the final line-up featured a bevy of samba beauties. It was prime timing as World Cup fever sweeps the nation, but it felt a little forced; as the dancers rolled and twirled and cavorted with the crowd, the models looked a little stiff in comparison and I was left wondering if this was really the best gimmick. I’m hoping my rhinestone-encrusted bikini and feather head dress that I ordered shortly afterwards arrives in time for the World Cup final, though.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday June 24th, 2014 9:08 am

Categories ,Carnival, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Fiongal Greenlaw, ,Kate Sloan, ,LCMSS2015, ,london, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Oliver Spencer, ,review, ,Rio, ,SS15

Amelia’s Magazine | Orlebar Brown: London Collections: Men S/S 2015

Orlebar Brown S/S 2015 by Helen Marudas

After the KTZ show on Monday I wandered down to Floral Street in Covent Garden to the Orlebar Brown store, where I found a rather excited crowd gathered in front of the shop’s façade. Four incredibly handsome guys with ripped bodies were struggling with a variety of dogs, and as I surveyed them I made a mental note to stop eating quite so many burgers.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Inside the store, more models showcased Orlebar Brown‘s S/S 2015 collection. Simple, bright shorts with metal fastenings were the mainstay, along with patterned shirts and basic, beach-ready footwear. ‘Under the sea’ was this year’s theme, translated with aquatic spiral and coral reef prints. I love the photographic printed pieces that the brand has become famous for, and I’ve added the Slim Aarons-esque t-shirt and shorts to my wishlist.

Back outside, the topless models still struggled with dogs. I felt so sorry for the gent that had obviously pulled the short straw and had to struggle with a Great Dane the size of a Shetland pony. You wouldn’t catch David Gandy doing this. I stifled LOLs as the great beast dragged the model passionately in the opposite direction from the store with gusto, while dog trainers desperately tried to catch up with them. It was like a sexy version of a Chuckle Brothers‘ sketch. Of all the dog breeds, why you would hire a four-legged recipe for disaster is beyond me, but it was a memorable presentation to say the least.

Written by Matt Bramford on Saturday June 21st, 2014 6:11 pm

Categories ,beach, ,fashion, ,Helen Marudas, ,LCM, ,LCMSS2015, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Orlebar Brown, ,Presentation, ,Slim Aarons, ,SS15, ,Swimwear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Fashion Scout Ones To Watch S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Youjia Jin SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

This season Fashion Scout‘s Ones to Watch featured two designers that I spotted some time ago, and two that were new to me. Somewhat impressively, three are also alumni of the London College of Fashion.

Youjia Jin SS 2015 photography by Amelia Gregory

Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

First up Youjia Jin introduced an elegant and sophisticated predominantly monochrome collection that was sent down the catwalk to a backdrop of tribal beats. Draped pleats, belts, flared waists and cable knit were used to spice up an elegant selection of suiting worn with flat two tone shoes. The use of see through voile and steel grey dip dyeing brought further interest to a collection that was very commercially aware.

MIN WU SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory

Next up Min Wu did not disappoint. In fact I think this was definitely my favourite collection of the lot; somehow combining an avante grade use of fabrics and silhouette to create a very wearable and fun collection. Billowy tops were worn with suiting striped shorts, billowing chiffon bounced from hips and trompe l’oeil plastic provided additional interest. As always Min Wu accompanied the collection with marvellous accessories: curlicued headbands, colourful oversize beads and bright buttons.

Keisho Nishiyama_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte .jpg
Keisho Nishiyama by Gaarte.

Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory

Smoke City’s classic 90s track Underwater Love accompanied the second collection from Keiko Nishiyama. In her preview interview the Japanese designer explained how she was inspired by aquariums and collections of objects. Fluid fabrics were layered with more structured garments, printed tights adding to the busy effect. This collection was as highly patterned as her first; featuring shells, coral and fishes aplenty, but I wild have liked to see a bit more variety in her print designs.

Cassandra verity green_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte
Cassandra Verity Green by Gaarte.

Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory

Finally, Cassandra Verity went for a clubby feel with body con t-shirt dresses, cut out leggings and a variety of acid knitted textures. Brightly coloured wigs and fluff on collars, stoles and low heeled shoes added to the party atmosphere, with rigid plastic backpacks and clutch bags adding a very 90s air to the catwalk. Patterning was circular and optical in nature. Certainly not a collection for the faint hearted!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday September 30th, 2014 6:21 pm

Categories ,Cassandra Verity, ,catwalk, ,Dom&Ink, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gaarte, ,Keiko Nishiyama, ,knitwear, ,London College of Fashion, ,Min Wu, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,S/S 2015, ,Smoke City, ,SS15, ,Underwater Love, ,Youjia Jin

Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

KTZ_SS15_by_Krister Selin
KTZ S/S 2015 by Krister Selin

It was at 9am when I rolled up at the Old Sorting Office for my first show of this season: KTZ. After a few too many Tequila-based cocktails at the Agi & Sam party the night before, I wasn’t in the best of states, but I was pleased (for myself, not for KTZ) to find that the venue wasn’t heaving. A raised standing area occupied one corner of the space and I was pleased that the organisers of London Collections: Men had finally given some thought to this issue.

KTZ S/S 2015 by Fiongal Greenlaw

Kenny Larkin‘s Drama remix of La Fleur’s Nightflow began pumping through the sound system, reawakening the remains of the previous night’s alcohol binge. I quickly found myself in the mood for what was about to be KTZ‘s best outing yet.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Inspiration this season came from Greek Hekatontarchs perfectly married with, as always, elements of street wear and hip hop culture. Pieces seemed infinitely more wearable this time, too – when you remove the sculpted torsos and headline-grabbing headwear. The opening section stayed true with the brand’s monochrome philosophy, starring oversized tops, pleated skirts, translucent shirts revealing bare torsos and basketball shorts. All of the above featured KTZ‘s staple ambiguous patterns; I noticed lightning bolts and elements of Greek architecture hidden amongst these ostentatious designs.

The latter section introduced a vibrant orange to the rest of the looks. Enveloping jackets, baseball caps, bombers with multiple pockets and tassels and towelling shorts were all highlights as the tangerine warriors drew cheers from the cavalry of KTZ fans inside.

The final pieces involved plastic weaves and tessellating plastic shapes: modern day armour for the modern day fashion fan. It was an incredible mix of historical references and contemporary styling and set a very high precedent for the next couple of days.

Written by Matt Bramford on Thursday June 19th, 2014 3:47 pm

Categories ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Fiongal Greenlaw, ,Greece, ,Krister Selin, ,KTZ, ,LCM, ,LCMSS2015, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Old Sorting Office, ,review, ,SS15, ,Tequila

Amelia’s Magazine | Little Women AW15: an interview with Renli Su

Renli Su by Bonaramis
Renli Su AW15 by Bonaramis.

Chinese born designer Renli Su first caught my eye when her collection appeared on the catwalk as one of the Fashion Scout Ones to Watch crew in 2013. The designer explores the idea of Time and Memory, with each season expanding and developing on this theme. For SS15 and AW15 she has been inspired by the tale of Little Women, resulting in two ‘strong yet feminine’ collections that reflect the typical dress sense of elegant and charming girls living in the mid-late 19th century.

Renli Su AW15

Where did you train in fashion design and what was your biggest design inspiration growing up?
I began studying painting and then completed BA Fashion Design at the Central Academy of Fine Arts in Beijing. Being surrounded by artists I found an appreciation for fabric as a material for my work, which is where my fashion education began. After my BA, I came to London to study MA Fashion Design and Technology Women’s wear at London College of Fashion, and I’ve been based in London ever since.

Renli Su AW15

How did you first start researching the Little Women collections?
The most part of my research came from my travels. The materials used were Chinese Summer Fabric, Indian hand-woven cotton, Indian black print cotton and Irish innovative cotton linen, so this meant I spent time in all of these countries, finding the fabrics and exploring the traditional techniques used to create them.

Renli Su AW15
I source fabrics from all over the world. For AW15, again I used the four materials that made up the SS15 collection, but I also added Tibetan Yak Wool and Chinese Silk. I am passionate about sourcing and reviving traditional techniques from different parts of the world as each of the materials are made in a different way and I meet interesting people who have dedicated their lives to creating these fabrics, it’s something I want to explore further.

Renli Su AW15

What have been the biggest hurdles in terms of getting the collections together?
There is a lot of research involved in the early stages and then in the later stages it requires a lot of dedication to create a collection that will stand the test of time in elegance, cut and quality.

Renli Su AW15

Where can your garments be bought?
Young British Designers in the UK, Dongliang in Shanghai, China, Dongliang in Beijing, China and Berween in Changsha, China. And of course online from www.renlisu.com.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday March 20th, 2015 12:39 pm

Categories ,AW15, ,beijing, ,Berween, ,Bonaramis, ,Central Academy of Fine Arts, ,Dongliang, ,Ecofashion, ,ethical, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,interview, ,Kristel Pent, ,Little Women, ,London College of Fashion, ,Ones To Watch, ,organic, ,Renli Su, ,SS15, ,Time and Memory, ,young british designers

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Scout SS15 Graduate Showcase

Grace Weller by Karolina Burdon.

As the fashion world gears up for the next edition of London Fashion Week here is a reminder of the amazing graduate talent that feeds our show schedules, with some of the finest Graduate designers featured in last September’s Fashion Scout Graduate Showcase.

FS graduate showcase SS 2015 grace weller
Bath Spa graduate Grace Weller was a Graduate Fashion Week Winner, creating intricate sheer gowns covered in flamboyant red flowers.

Quoï Alexander by Sine Skau.

Quoi Alexander is a Central Saint Martins graduate who specialises in intricate woven garments, layering multiple threads and ribbons on top of each other to create an appealing dishevelled rag rug effect.

FS graduate showcase SS 2015holly jayne
Holly Jayne Smith’s bold style has a distinct 80s feel, with graphic monochrome zigzags paired with flared skirts and eye catching headwear.

Emma Hardstaff by Alison Day-2
Emma Hardstaff by Alison Day.

Emma Hardstaff is an RCA graduate working with colourful metallics and netting layers to create voluminous shapes.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday February 18th, 2015 10:11 am

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Bath Spa, ,Emma Hardstaff, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grace Weller, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Holly Jayne Smith, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Quoi Alexander, ,S/S 2015, ,Sine Skau, ,SS15

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