Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week AW15 Exhibition Stands Report: Jewellery

Imogen Belfield jurassic ring
After nearly 20 years of attending London Fashion Week and supporting emerging designers the British Fashion Council denied me a press pass for the exhibition stands because I forgot to register online (it went to spam mail). After conferring with a manager upstairs I was told that my website was ‘not influential enough’ to warrant a pass and I should reapply next season, which is pretty galling given the amount of time I have spent promoting designers in Amelia’s Magazine over the past decade, many at the start of their careers. The only way I was allowed in was to drag a designer out from the stands so that I could be allocated a plastic wrist band as a visiting friend. Thanks for the show of appreciation for all my hard work BFC!

Jewellery has become a major fixture at the exhibition stands, so there is loads to report on. Read on if you love jewels as much as I do.

Imogen Belfield
Much gratitude to the lovely Imogen Belfield for leaving her stand in the Rock Vault to sort me out with an exhibition pass. Her new collection is amazing as ever, featuring rough diamonds, black diamonds and an array of new fine metals as well as solid gold pieces designed to appeal to her Far Eastern markets. Her chunky Jurassic ring (at the top) is chock full of rough diamonds. Yum yum! Read my first interview with Imogen Belfield here, we’ll be doing a catch up Q&A soon.

Alice Cicolini
This season Alice Cicolini (read more in this round up here) showcased a concise new collection named Summer Snow, featuring fine quartz crystals which spin on the inside and outside, with precious gems such as tourmaline and sapphire in the centres. So different and beautiful.

Ornella Ianuzzi
Also in the Rock Vault I was wowed by jewellery from Ornella Iannuzzi for the first time. These opal cage earrings feature a beautiful round gemstone that rolls around inside a gold shape inspired by the Platonic Solids. Find out more about Ornella in my upcoming interview.

Goddess Aviator goddess aviator
This gigantic Goddess Aviator showpiece by art jewellers Yunus and Eliza is not for the faint hearted! What an awesome piece.

Shimell and Madden
We first met Shimell and Madden way back in 2011, so it was nice to see them now doing so well – I love the new collection, featuring these unusual cabochon garnets and finely set diamonds.

This is what they do! Stratus rain earrings dancing away at Rock Vault

A video posted by Jo Hayes Ward (@johayesward) on

Jo Hayes-Ward has not let a new baby get in the way of her prolific output, first profiled in Amelia’s Magazine in 2010 – creating swathes of new designs in her signature building block style. An inspiration to us all! These earrings dance so beautifully, as shown in her video. Just imagine them in the ear! Magnificent.

Beth Gilmour
Beth Gilmour is a Cockpit Arts based designer, I absolutely adore her Dichroma Collection, featuring bi coloured gemstones set in similarly toned metals.

Lily Kamper
Lily Kamper enamel pendants
Moving on to other rooms… Lily Kamper has also been busy creating a vast new collection, including this glorious pendant in her colourful Art Deco style. Also new for this season are new abstract enamel initial pendants, which she began sketching out last season.

Kattri pendant
This bold pendant comes from the new Assymetry collection by Kattri – find out more about designer Amanda Gerbasi in my recent interview here.

Ruifier face pendants
So sweet and unusual: these gem face pendants are by Ruifier, which is the new jewellery brand from Central Saint Martins graduate Rachel Shaw. Her distinct pieces feature precious gems in layerable designs that marry wit with luxury.

Alighieri is Dante inspired jewellery from Oxford University graduate Rosh Mahtani, who set up her brand in 2013 with no formal training but a burning desire to translate her love of literature into jewels.

Eshvi bracelet
This bracelet by Eshvi showcases the brand’s individual aesthetic, featuring chunky resin shapes in bold designs.

Brooke Gregson constellation pendants
Brooke Gregson is another designer who is new to me. The American designer works with some fabulous boulder opals and her Astrology collection is such a unique and wonderful idea.

Ros Millar rings
These gothic rings are from Ros Millar, also based in the Cockpit Arts studio, and whose work I admired a few years ago at the Treasure Jewellery Show.

Kirsty Ward
Kirsty Ward necklace
It’s always a joy to catch up with Kirsty Ward, especially since she hasn’t show at London Fashion Week for a few seasons. As well as churning out a full collection of clothing her jewellery range has also grown hugely since she first started out with Fashion Scout. I absolutely adore her unique statement pieces.

Only Child necklace
Over with Black PR I discovered these serious druzies on a chunky gold chain by Only Child.

Gina Melosi
Designer Gina Melosi (discovered last year at the Off Strand showcase) specialises in ethical jewellery, creating distinctive looks such as this raw beehive geometric design on a necklace.

More from the stands soon…

Categories ,Alice Cicolini, ,Alighieri, ,Amanda Gerbasi, ,Assymetry, ,Astrology, ,AW15, ,Beth Gilmour, ,Black PR, ,british fashion council, ,Brooke Gregson, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Cockpit Arts, ,Dichroma Collection, ,Eshvi, ,Exhibition Stands Report, ,Fashion Scout, ,Fine Jewellery, ,Gina Melosi, ,Goddess Aviator, ,Imogen Belfield, ,jewellery, ,Jo Hayes-Ward, ,Jurassic, ,Kattri, ,Kirsty Ward, ,Lily Kamper, ,London Fashion Week, ,Millar, ,Off Strand, ,Only Child, ,Ornella Iannuzzi, ,Oxford University, ,Platonic Solids, ,Rachel Shaw, ,Rock Vault, ,Rosh Mahtani, ,Ruifier, ,Shimell and Madden, ,Summer Snow, ,Treasure Jewellery Show, ,Yunus and Eliza

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Amelia’s Magazine | Kattri: an interview with jewellery designer Amanda Gerbasi

Kattri-Volumes Collection5
Last London Fashion Week I was excited to discover the stunning jewellery of Kattri. I caught up with Brazilian designer Amanda Gerbasi to find out more.

Amanda Gerbasi Kattri
You have previously studied language and architecture, how have these informed your approach to jewellery design?
Well, my language studies haven’t. While studying architecture, however, I learned about different artistic and philosophical movements which inspire me to this day. It also help me develop my personal aesthetic taste.

Triple Dodecahedron Ring

Why did you move to the UK and what keeps you here?
I moved with my family ten years ago. Initially the idea was to stay for one year as to experience another culture but we ended up staying for good. After ten years living somewhere there is a lot to keep you there. Not only I have my business, my partner and many friends here but I really appreciate the standard of living in the UK, even despite the bad weather.

Kattri-Volumes Collection3
KATTRI.Tetrahedron Ring 4
Tetrahedron Ring

How do you source your gemstones from Brazil and what is the best way to ensure they are ethically mined?
I always go to Brazil to chose the gemstones I’ll be using in my new collections and I use this one supplier who personally knows the mines he buys his rough gemstones from. Still I am careful to use the work ethically in relation to mining. Even though there is no forced or child labour in these mines, mining is still a destructive activity to the planet and the work conditions are still extreme. I’m not sure how much digging gemstones from wholes under the Earth’s surface can be improved.

What I am keen to explore in the near future is the use of synthetic gemstones. They have the exact same chemical properties of natural gemstones, they manufacturing process in clean and the conditions are much better for the workers involved, and you can buy the most amazing quality gemstones (in terms of colour and clarity) for a fraction of the price of a natural ones. Unfortunately there is still a lot of prejudice towards them but I hope the more brands use it the quicker this will disappear.

KATTRI bracelet
What inspires you the most when you start dreaming up a new collection?
It varies really. Perhaps because I didn’t go to design school I don’t have a very structured approach to developing collections. Sometimes it’s the gemstones themselves that inspire me and other times can be a shape I saw somewhere or I revisit a concept I had already sketched a while back.

KATTRI_Polygon Flat Ring_Yellow Gold_1
Polygon Flat Ring Yellow Gold

How has the learning on your business and gemmology courses impacted your brand?
The jewellery business course was very informative in the practical sense of the things you need to know to run a business in the UK. At that point I know almost nothing about these matters and it covered things like hallmarking, VAT, bookeeping, building a brand, marketing, etc. I am still studying gemmology but the first course gave me an introduction to how gemstones are classified and their composition, what different gemstones are valued for and how their are priced, the treatments that can be used in them and so on. This is very important when you are buying gemstones so you know you are paying the right price for what you are buying and also to be able source the right gemstones.

KATTRI_Quadrant Ring_Rose Gold_Rose Quartz_1
Quadrant Ring Rose Gold Rose Quartz

Many of your designs are created with the help of modern technology, what is the process of creating a piece of Kattri jewellery?
I usually do a very simple and very quick sketch by hand and then I start designing using CAD software, which I love! This part takes some time as usually a few reiterations have to be made until the intended design is achieved.

Kattri-Volumes Collection8
What do you hope for the future of your business, and do you have any plans in development that you can share with us?
I hope to grow my business and enter new markets. Hopefully then I can hire more people to deal with the business side and I can then just focus on designing and sourcing materials. I am planning to spend some time in Brazil this year to try and get more stockists there. I’ve been wanting to do this for a while so I really want to do it this year!

Categories ,Amanda Gerbasi, ,Brazilian, ,jewellery, ,Kattri, ,London Fashion Week

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