Amelia’s Magazine | Min Wu: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Presentation Review

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Min Wu is yet another of the super talented Chinese designers who are training in London and going on to showcase their collections at London Fashion Week. Min Wu gained an MA at London College of Fashion last year, and her Atmosphere and Automation presentation built on the clean lines and sculptural embellishments of her final MA collection. It also used the same eye catching ombre shading, this time on wool separates and mesh fabric crafted into both boxy and blouson shapes. The models wore their hair in intricate plaits, offset by huge swinging bead earrings.

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Briony Jose

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Briony Jose.

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Atmosphere and Automation, ,Briony Jose, ,Chinese, ,London College of Fashion, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Min Wu, ,Slowly the Eggs

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Amelia’s Magazine | Min Wu: Ones to Watch S/S 2015 London Fashion Week Preview

Min Wu by Karolina Burdon
Min Wu A/W 2014 by Karolina Burdon.

I’ve been keeping an eye on Chinese born London College of Fashion alumni Min Wu for some seasons now, ever since I picked out her work at the 2013 LCF MA graduate show, held at the illustrious Royal Opera House. She’s already done a few presentations with Fashion Scout but this season she will be on the catwalk as one of Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch. I caught up with her for a quick sneak preview of what to expect this season.

Min Wu AW 2014
Min Wu A/W 2014.

What or who are the biggest influences on your approach to fashion?
My approach has developed with my life experience, alongside the article that I have read or the exhibitions that I have been. I like to keep moving forward.

Where do you get inspiration for your subtle colour combinations from?
I get inspired by photographs and paintings, then use drawings to translate my ideas into my own language. I try many different combinations until I find the best one.


Min Wu S/S 2015 preview
Min Wu S/S 2015 preview
Min Wu S/S 2015 preview.

What can we expect from your new season collection?
I used some light jelly fabric which kind of looks yummy.


You are adept with merging the high tech with the traditional, have you ever encountered any issues with this approach?
Issues aways appears when you try to do something interesting, but up until now I have handled it well. Both high tech and traditional techniques come at a high cost, but I have been trying very hard to work this out.


You’ve been presenting at LFW for a few seasons now, what have you learnt over that period?
Definitely, it is such a precious experience to work with a team members, and I am constantly learning about how to catch the attention of press and also make buyers and customers happy. I am still learning.

Categories ,Chinese, ,Fashion Scout, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London College of Fashion, ,Min Wu, ,Ones To Watch, ,Royal Opera House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Fashion Scout Ones To Watch S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Youjia Jin SS2015 by Dom&Ink
Youjia Jin SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

This season Fashion Scout‘s Ones to Watch featured two designers that I spotted some time ago, and two that were new to me. Somewhat impressively, three are also alumni of the London College of Fashion.

Youjia Jin SS 2015 photography by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photography by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia GregoryYoujia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

First up Youjia Jin introduced an elegant and sophisticated predominantly monochrome collection that was sent down the catwalk to a backdrop of tribal beats. Draped pleats, belts, flared waists and cable knit were used to spice up an elegant selection of suiting worn with flat two tone shoes. The use of see through voile and steel grey dip dyeing brought further interest to a collection that was very commercially aware.

MIN WU SS2015 by Dom&Ink
MIN WU SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia GregoryMin Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Next up Min Wu did not disappoint. In fact I think this was definitely my favourite collection of the lot; somehow combining an avante grade use of fabrics and silhouette to create a very wearable and fun collection. Billowy tops were worn with suiting striped shorts, billowing chiffon bounced from hips and trompe l’oeil plastic provided additional interest. As always Min Wu accompanied the collection with marvellous accessories: curlicued headbands, colourful oversize beads and bright buttons.

Keisho Nishiyama_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte .jpg
Keisho Nishiyama by Gaarte.

Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Smoke City’s classic 90s track Underwater Love accompanied the second collection from Keiko Nishiyama. In her preview interview the Japanese designer explained how she was inspired by aquariums and collections of objects. Fluid fabrics were layered with more structured garments, printed tights adding to the busy effect. This collection was as highly patterned as her first; featuring shells, coral and fishes aplenty, but I wild have liked to see a bit more variety in her print designs.

Cassandra verity green_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte
Cassandra Verity Green by Gaarte.

Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Finally, Cassandra Verity went for a clubby feel with body con t-shirt dresses, cut out leggings and a variety of acid knitted textures. Brightly coloured wigs and fluff on collars, stoles and low heeled shoes added to the party atmosphere, with rigid plastic backpacks and clutch bags adding a very 90s air to the catwalk. Patterning was circular and optical in nature. Certainly not a collection for the faint hearted!

Categories ,Cassandra Verity, ,catwalk, ,Dom&Ink, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gaarte, ,Keiko Nishiyama, ,knitwear, ,London College of Fashion, ,Min Wu, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,S/S 2015, ,Smoke City, ,SS15, ,Underwater Love, ,Youjia Jin

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week AW15 Exhibition Stands Report including Fashion Scout and Me London

Typical Freaks
In my final AW15 London Fashion Week round up I take a peek at a few of the designers on the stands. At Fashion Scout I got chatting to Sonia Xiao of Typical Freaks, which is a collaborative project with partner Seun Ade-Onojobi. The new collection was inspired by the chaos of dog shows and features baggy layer able hand painted and embellished clothing in pastel brights. Loved it!

Cats Brothers pompoms
At the main London Fashion Week stands my eye was immediately attracted to this massive coat covered with pompoms by Cats Brothers, who specialise in heavily embellished garments that strike a statement.

Pitchouguina
This season Pitchouguina was obsessed with drawing hands, adding unusual statement embroideries such as this to the front of garments.

Emma Shipley
The Emma J Shipley luxury scarf brand goes from strength to strength thanks to her detailed drawing skills and eye for beautiful colour combinations. She recently collaborated with Disney to produce a special Tinkerbell range, profiled on her excellent blog.

Achtland flamingos
Achtland is brand new to LFW, founded by German duo Oliver Luhr and Thomas Bentz but now headquartered in London. I absolutely adored this fun flamingo applique sweat top from the latest collection.

Sadie Williams flowers
Sadie Williams clothing
I love the work of New Gen designer Sadie Williams, who specialises in the application of fancy textiles techniques such as quilting and applique, combined with sheers in a signature bright metallic palette. Love the quirky flower arrangement too.

Min Wu
Min Wu earrings
The new collection by Min Wu features supercute details like these metallic pocket ruffles. Her 3D printed earrings can be made in any colour way and featuring removable spinning interiors.

JD Cruz bags
As a former textile designer I was attracted to the fabulous colourful splashes on these printed leather bags by JD Cruz.

Beautiful Soul lollipops
At the Fashion at Me London showcase I caught up with Nicola Woods of Beautiful Soul, whose floral covered collections grow ever stronger. Loved the stand covered in false hydrangeas and featuring these fabric covered lollies.

Frank by David Longshaw
This little guy is called Frank, the newest character created by fashion designer David Longshaw, who skilfully combines illustration and fashion design to create unique garments.

Vielma dark tales
Finally, Vielma showcased new collection Dark Tales in the bitterly cold entrance to the hotel, featuring expert tailoring and skeleton prints.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,Achtland, ,AW15, ,Beautiful Soul, ,Cats Brothers, ,Dark Tales, ,David Longshaw, ,Emma J Shipley, ,Fashion at Me London, ,Fashion Scout, ,Frank, ,JD Cruz, ,London Fashion Week, ,me london, ,Min Wu, ,New Gen, ,Nicola Woods, ,Oliver Luhr, ,Pitchouguina, ,Sadie Williams, ,Seun Ade-Onojobi, ,Show report, ,Sonia Xiao, ,Thomas Bentz, ,Typical Freaks, ,Vielma

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Amelia’s Magazine | LCF MA Fashion Show 2013, Womenswear: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Yi Xie by Jacqueline Valencia
Yi Xie by Jacqueline Valencia.

London College of Fashion womenswear designers showed a series of polished collections, most of which were accessoried with amazing footwear that I was able to ogle as the models climbed the reflective steps onto the raised catwalk at the Royal Opera House.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Maddalena Mangialavori
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Maddalena Mangialavori
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Maddalena Mangialavori
Maddalena Mangialavori applied raffia fringing to loose fitting dresses, and pretty ruffs to bodices worn with A-line and pencil skirts. Lop-sided low-brimmed hats collapsed over one eye, lending a jaunty air to muted colours in a variety of different textures.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013 Nadia Scullion
LCF MA fashion AW 2013 Nadia Scullion
Nadia Scullion played with ice cream shades; pastel blues and lemon yellow layered together to create a collection of clean lines that were broken with raggy edged socks and collars. A darker coat decorated with a baby blue waist trim was one of the pieces that caught my eye.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
Min Wu‘s beautiful collection took the concept of tie-dye to a new level; jelly coloured panels fading into creamy white furls of fabric that lay flat against the waist or swung nonchalantly from the neck. Plastic soled shoes worked brilliantly with these gorgeous garments.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Sian Davies
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Sian Davies
Sian Davies worked in blocky oatmeal shades; tight latex paired with over-sized tops.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Yi Xie
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Yi Xie
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Yi Xie
yi xie
LFW Yi Xie by Angela Lamb
Yi Xie by Angela Lamb.

I absolutely adored the work of Yi Xie, as did my instagram feed when I shared a photo of her intricate pleated trouser suit, luscious flames of orange licking against the vibrating blues on shoulder, waist and calves. I can see her undulating body con dresses selling really well.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF-MA_by_Gaarte
Keiko Nishiyama by Gaarte.

Last and by no means least came possibly my favourite collection of all: Keiko Nishiyama covered blowsy shirts and bib fronted dresses with stunning engineered floral prints that made the digital revolution all her own: fields of flowers on a white ground were styled with matching patterned tights and peasant shoes with exaggerated up-turned toes. Just delightful!

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,2013, ,Angela Lamb, ,bodycon, ,Digital Prints, ,floral, ,Gaarte, ,graduate, ,Jacqueline Valencia, ,Keiko Nishiyama, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maddalena Mangialavori, ,Min Wu, ,Nadia Scullion, ,review, ,Royal Opera House, ,Sian Davies, ,Womenswear, ,Yi Xie

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Scout Graduate Showcase 2013: New Talent at London Fashion Week S/S 2014

Xiao Lin SS 2014 1 by xplusyequals
Xiao Li S/S 2014 by xplusyequals.

A rainy Sunday London Fashion Week afternoon was spent uncovering a treasure trove of new talent at the Fashion Scout Graduate Presentation at Freemason’s Hall. Here is an insight into what the finest fashion graduates in the UK are producing during the early stages of their career.

LFW Sept 2013-Angus Chiang
Neon floral spacesuit by Angus Chiang.

LFW Sept 2013-Maiko Takeda blue
LFW Sept 2013-Maiko Takeda
Maiko Takeda by Saara Karppinen
Maiko Takeda by Saara Karppinen.

The selection varied immensely, from a bold giant floral spacemen by Angus Chiang from the Shih-Chien University in Taiwan, to the architectural spiked perspex head pieces by Royal College of Art graduate Maiko Takeda.

LFW Sept 2013-Xiao Li
LFW Sept 2013-Xiao Li close up
Xiao Li MA Show Fashion Illustration by Rose Petal Deer (Emily Katherine Reader)
Xiao Li by Rose Petal Deer (Emily Katherine Reader).

But it was the knitwear that really stood out to me, with two graduates in particular pushing this traditional craft into modern new realms. Plump pastel knitwear by Royal College of Art graduate Xiao Li had a wonderfully voluminous shape, combining innovative materials and head turning proportions to make a real impact. Who says wrapping up has to be just about comfort?

Xiao Lin
Xiao Li, photography by Kerry Flint.

Jaimee McKenna
Jaimee McKenna, photography by Kerry Flint.

LFW Sept 2013-Jaimee Mckenna
Jaimee Mckenna by Esther Hong
Jaimee Mckenna by Esther Hong.

Central Saint Martins graduate Jaimee Mckenna had also produced a striking collection of cobalt blue knit dresses that stood out in the dimly lit hall. Closer inspection revealed intricate pleating and multiple layers of knitted lambswool that had been expertly crafted by Jaimee Mckenna to form strong rigid structures that still had movement.

LFW Sept 2013-Lauren Smith Edinburgh
LFW Sept 2013-Lauren Smith Edinburgh close up
Close up detail of dress by Lauren Smith from Edinburgh College of Art.

LFW Sept 2013-Carrie Ann Stein CSM
LFW Sept 2013-Carrie Ann Stein CSM
Intricate textured fabrics by Carrie Ann Stein from Central Saint Martins.

LFW Sept 2013-Min Wu LCF
Dress by Min Wu from the London College of Fashion.

LFW Sept 2013-Sadie Williams
Amazing red metallic A-line maxi dress by Sadie Williams of Central Saint Martins.

This well curated showcase of work by the best UK fashion graduates was an arousing insight into the rapidly changing future of the fashion industry, and for now, it seems, the future is in knit.

All photography by Amelia Gregory unless otherwise stated.

Categories ,Angus Chiang, ,Carrie Ann Stein, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Emily Katherine Reader, ,Esther Hong, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,graduates, ,graduates 2013, ,Jaimee McKenna, ,knitwear, ,Lauren Smith, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maiko Takeda, ,Min Wu, ,New Talent, ,Rose Petal Deer, ,Royal College of Art, ,Saara Karppinen, ,Sadie Williams, ,Shih-Chien University, ,Xiao Li, ,xplusyequals

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